I understand. I used a conventional cap before I got this one years ago. I really only use this type of cap to release pressure in a more controlled way when I have to service the cooling system. I appreciate you!✊🏾✊🏾
Yeah bobby i need to replace my thermostat and flush radiator. Add some gear oil to rear end and flush engine. She should be good then. Shes parked out back old house. Thank you for the walktbroughs
Im having issues with my fuel gauge after replacing the fuel sending unit and making sure the ground wire is properly connected to the bed frame. When I disconnect the fuel sending unit connector while the truck is on, the gauge reads full, but when everything is connected, it stays at empty without any movement. Any suggestions or ideas on resolving this?
There's a bunch of stuff to consider when doing this swap. The Vortec heads don't have the internal coolant bypass like the old school heads. That's what that "extra" port at the front of the intake is for, you have a temp sensor there it looks like. The bypass holes in the thermostat aren't enough to handle that setup. The Vortec water pump has an extra nipple on the top to hook up that bypass. The old school blocks and heads have an extra hole drilled that connects from behind the passengers side of the water pump, thru the block, to the water passage in the head. Some Chevy trucks have a heater block off valve that stops heat from passing thru the heater core when the heat isn't on, makes the AC more efficient. That will cause some issues, looks like yours doesn't have that, hard to say though. I've got a 95 Tahoe with Vortec heads, cracked the first set when I did my swap and then learned all this lol!! I honestly forget how my heat is setup now, I live in AZ and don't drive the truck much so .... That was many years ago before this swap was popular. @@WorkingwithBobby
@@retorq I appreciate this input and that you took the time to share your wisdom. How can I prevent that from happening to my cylinder heads? Where do you recommend running the coolant hoses?
That is GM on all mine there was a nipple on one side or the other of the thermostat one heater hose went to it this is the high pressure side,, and the other went to the water pump the low pressure side that pulls the coolant back in to the water pump and sent it back in to the block to be heated again..
Thanks man, I truly appreciate your input. I didn't know this at the time I redid the hoses but, I figured out something was wrong when I had no heat! Thanks again dude and thanks for watching. ✊🏾✊🏾
My dodge takes forever to blow heat..I know its due to the 4 core radiator upgrade as well as the electric fan upgrade...Luckily i live in the desert where i dont have to many really cold days
I have always figured that the less heating up and cooling off of the block is always better..Since when metal gets hot and cools off a bunch it gets weaker
@@WorkingwithBobby thank u I've been running it that way for 8 years also did long tube headders cat delete and true dual with no H pipe or X pipe..Truck has never left me stranded and it's my daily
Just came across your video. Good work man. Do what you can when you can. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you! Yes sir, that's the plan.✊🏾✊🏾
Thank you for shareing information to help others love you mom ❤God bless 😊
Always momma! Love you too!✊🏾✊🏾
Good job on heater flow. My rad cap comment has to do with expansion and contraction of coolant flow in and out of the recovery system
I understand. I used a conventional cap before I got this one years ago. I really only use this type of cap to release pressure in a more controlled way when I have to service the cooling system. I appreciate you!✊🏾✊🏾
Good job😊
Thank you! Can't do too much without heat! Had to get that fix asap!
Yeah bobby i need to replace my thermostat and flush radiator. Add some gear oil to rear end and flush engine. She should be good then. Shes parked out back old house. Thank you for the walktbroughs
Go ahead and get it done bro! Don't let her sit back there too long! No problem! Thanks for watching!✊🏾✊🏾
Im having issues with my fuel gauge after replacing the fuel sending unit and making sure the ground wire is properly connected to the bed frame. When I disconnect the fuel sending unit connector while the truck is on, the gauge reads full, but when everything is connected, it stays at empty without any movement. Any suggestions or ideas on resolving this?
It reads faulty even if you move the float by hand with the pump assembly outside of the tank and the key on?
@@WorkingwithBobby yes still won’t move
@@tonyrocha1435 sounds like the sending unit may be faulty. What happens if you plug the old sending unit back to the truck and watch the gauge?
Do you have Vortec heads (96+) on a pre-Vortec (before 95) block??
Yes sir. 99' vortec heads on a 93' block. Why?
There's a bunch of stuff to consider when doing this swap. The Vortec heads don't have the internal coolant bypass like the old school heads. That's what that "extra" port at the front of the intake is for, you have a temp sensor there it looks like. The bypass holes in the thermostat aren't enough to handle that setup. The Vortec water pump has an extra nipple on the top to hook up that bypass. The old school blocks and heads have an extra hole drilled that connects from behind the passengers side of the water pump, thru the block, to the water passage in the head. Some Chevy trucks have a heater block off valve that stops heat from passing thru the heater core when the heat isn't on, makes the AC more efficient. That will cause some issues, looks like yours doesn't have that, hard to say though. I've got a 95 Tahoe with Vortec heads, cracked the first set when I did my swap and then learned all this lol!! I honestly forget how my heat is setup now, I live in AZ and don't drive the truck much so .... That was many years ago before this swap was popular.
@@WorkingwithBobby
@@retorq I appreciate this input and that you took the time to share your wisdom. How can I prevent that from happening to my cylinder heads? Where do you recommend running the coolant hoses?
That is GM on all mine there was a nipple on one side or the other of the thermostat one heater hose went to it this is the high pressure side,, and the other went to the water pump the low pressure side that pulls the coolant back in to the water pump and sent it back in to the block to be heated again..
Thanks man, I truly appreciate your input. I didn't know this at the time I redid the hoses but, I figured out something was wrong when I had no heat! Thanks again dude and thanks for watching. ✊🏾✊🏾
My dodge takes forever to blow heat..I know its due to the 4 core radiator upgrade as well as the electric fan upgrade...Luckily i live in the desert where i dont have to many really cold days
That's what's up dude! You have a very efficient cooling system. ✊🏾✊🏾
@WorkingwithBobby thank u but on cold days I wish I didn't lol but yes truck never gets past a third of where running temp would normally be
I have always figured that the less heating up and cooling off of the block is always better..Since when metal gets hot and cools off a bunch it gets weaker
@johnoates3326 that makes a lot of sense dude. If it works for you, continue to run it that way.
@@WorkingwithBobby thank u I've been running it that way for 8 years also did long tube headders cat delete and true dual with no H pipe or X pipe..Truck has never left me stranded and it's my daily
Wrong rad cap,locking lever type for vehicles without recovery tanks
Yeah? If the radiator cap is the reason I didn't have heat, why did I fix my heat issue by running one of my heater core hoses back to the engine?