You said you weren't gonna get into your batteries? You said you had lithium batteries? What group size are you using and what Make you using? I'm going to do a basic set up like that to my travel trailer and I'm trying to figure out what batteries to go with so that's why I'm asking.. Thank you....
@@jonedwards2107I'm currently building a similar system. Quick question, if you had it to do over would you build a larger solar array, or is 400 watts of Solar enough to use your system at a high efficiency rate?
The perfect solution to my temporary needs. Proverbial snake but I was having a brain fart regarding tying into the panel. Knew the converter would need to be disconnected at night when I switch to the inverter from generator. Thanks so much 🙏
The only thing that I can think of that I would do different would be to take a hook up adapter wire with hook up and just cut the other end off and connect it to the hardwire hookup connection this will give you a better power connection and I believe better current flow check your user manual to be sure but I think I'm right. :-)
Experience is the best teacher. 1. You might consider using at least a 3000W FSW Inverter. 2. You definitely want to use a charge controller so you won't cook your batteries. Maybe your inverter has one, some do. 3. You won't be able to get near your battery switch if there is a fire. 4. You definitely want to use the inverter remote inside the RV... Bad weather... and just a pain to get into the basement. 5. You will want to hardwire as much as possible because of vibration when traveling. You can still use the extension cords. Most receptacles are very loose. 6. You may also want to wire in a relay to switch between shore power and Inverter power. I use the 80A 120VAC coil relays and the coil is wired to shore power.
Why did you use 20 amp cord instead of 30 amp to 110 converter? Thanks for video exactly what I'm trying to do! Not enough money to pay someone to install 👌
Hey!! Thanks for that question. So. I don’t think I would be pulling a more than 20amps so I decided to go with it. Works great. Love using my Inverter when we are at Harvest Hosts or Cracker Barrels for the night when no Generators are allowed. Gives me enough and some power to get through the night using all my plugs and tv on. (Just don’t forget to turn off outside refrigerator 😂. Glad it helped. And thank you again!
Your video is great but im tryingvto do that very same thing but on an older trailer which does not have a switch like that to shut off the power converter
Thank you so much for watching and your comment. So a friend of mine has the same issue (if we call it that). He placed the converter on a switch. Hope this reply encourages you. Thanks again
I may have already asked, if so forgive me. Are the receptacles on the inverter 15 amp? It seems in the owners manual, that’s what it said. Sadly, allied Renogy, they are phone people that no zilch. QUESTION; Did you ground your inverter? So far I don’t see anyone showing that. Thanks
Hi! I am a new Rv owner and I want exactly the same thing as you wanted to be able to watch tv while stopped for the night at a rest area or a harvest host that don’t like generators. My question is if you turn off the converter will your DC power still work? And you said that you can recharge the batteries through just plugging into either a generator or shore power even with lithium batteries? Someone told me that my charge controller that came with my Rv would not charge lithium batteries. So they were wrong or did you have to change your charge controller for lithium? Thanks for the great video and sorry for all the questions.
Well by turning the converter off you do not need DC because you are using your batteries thru the cord from your Inverter. And yes when plugging into shore power or the generator making sure that you converter is back on like a normal hookup it changes the batteries regardless if it’s Lithium. I am not aware of any charge controller for lithium. But as I always say if you are unsure I would continue to look into it. When we go to a Harvest host this is my routine. 1. Turn Converter Breaker off. This way your not trying to charge your batteries with its own power!!! 2. Connect my cord to my Inverter and RV (like connecting to Shore Power) 3. We use our batteries all night for TV, charging our devises, lights. Keeping our Fridge on Propane uses less power from the batteries. 4. Monitor the batteries. By the time we wake up we have just enough power to close up the RV. 5 disconnect RV from Inverter 6. Turn Converter on so while driving to your next location it charges your batteries. Always make sure that you do not drain your lithium’s. Hope this helps. Safe travels.
@@TSquadRVing Thank you so very much for taking the time to explain everything to me! I am a single female traveling alone and need all the advice I can get. I also joined harvest host! You mentioned a victron item. Can I ask what that is? Is that a charge controller also? And several people say you need fuses and bus bars and things I have no idea what they are for or do. Would you ever consider making a video showing set by step how you did it and everything we would need? I am sure there are many people that would love to see how to do it! Because this is exactly what most of us need. Thank you again and happy travels. Stay safe!
Tonya, If I’m not mistaking, I believe you were asking about your factory converter being able to charge your lithium batteries or not. Most RVs and travel trailers a few years old have converters that are not Lithium specific. It will still charge your lithium batteries, but not charge them more than 80% of its capacity. You would need a specific lithium-capable converter to fully charge your lithium batteries. Most of the time, you can get a lithium-capable converter with identical specs as the converter that the factory installed.
You spot on. I ended purchasing misl grommet sizes and place one on that metal frame. Now I’m stuck with 180 piece set from Amazon. Lol. Thanks so much for your comment. Good observation.
There's no point in that 20 amp plug adapter and giant extension cord because it is still only a 15 amp outlet coming from your inverter. If you turn on too much AC equipment in the RV, you'll trip your inverter beyond the 15 amp load. Why not just use a regular heavy duty 15 amp rated extension cord with an adapter to plug into your RV connection port?
I have the same inverter and mounted it very similar to what you did. It works great! One difference was I control couple nice mounted power strips that plug right in. Then I use one circuit hard wired in the camper. The reasons I decided against the way you chose is this way it operates the same weather I am plugged in or not. No remembering to turn the charger back on or off and I don’t need to make a connection or leave my storage compartment open. I also cannot accidentally use the microwave or heat or AC on my batteries which would drain very quickly if you did. I also chose to use the remote function as it just takes a moment to see and push the button if Ive left it on or need to turn it back on.
Can I do this with my Class A Motorhome ? Will it run my Roof top A/C Unit ? What is the minimum size Inverter should I go with to safely run everything in my Class A Motorhome ?
If you have a fuse at the battery you don’t need a fuse on the same line close to the inverter. High current draw anywhere will blow the fuse. The reason you put a fuse close to battery is to protect the wire shorting.
Ok, you said you are adding solar later so how are you charging your batters if you have the RV converter turned off and the inverter running off from your batteries? What kepts the batteries charged?.
Once you are done using the inverter turning the converter back on when you connect to any source of power that will charge your batteries. If it’s sitting for months I take the batteries and place on a trickle charger. Hope this helped.
When did you install your inverter, wondering if you’ve had any issues? I just bought a 3,000 watt Renogy pure sine wave inverter, 2 x Redodo 230 amp hour batteries. As soon as I get my hydrologic press to put the lugs on the 4/0 copper, I’m installing it. One pointer. I plan to install a 30 amp female plug next to my inverter, with a stock plastic access hole for my Shore power cord can fit through. Since I’m using 3,000 watt inverter, 460 amp hours batteries, 4/0 copper, I’ll be able to plug right in. The camper will think it’s plugged in. I should be able to run the microwave for almost 6 hours, AC for 2 1/2 continuous hours. I only have a 190 watt panel from the factory, adding one 200 watt to the roof. That should give me about another hour run time in good sun. I’ll be testing and in all likelihood, this will serve my needs. I wish I could get enough solar and battery to be self sustaining so all the federal campgrounds that don’t have electricity will be open for camping. Did you ever test to see if you turn off the converter, the 12 volt refrigerator will still run? I forgot about it until watching this again, thanks
So turning off the breaker for the converter in the rv do your 12 volt lights work? I thought the converter charges the battery and converts shore power to 12 volts for lights vent fans ect.
Correct. But the breaker off eliminates a continued cycle when using the inverter with the batteries (without shore power) And you wouldn’t need the 12v system if using the inverter for power. we are simply using the batteries when we do not have shore power to power the entire rv of course with out using the AC.
Yes I have a question , class a rv with onboard genny but would like to do a simple plug in for tv and lights. Understand I need to turn off inverter on the rv . But by doing that am I turning. Off the 12volt pilot lights to fridge and water heater that we would run on propane while BD ing . That’s my concern or does the inverter have nothing to do with the lights and other 12 volts system that runs off the house batteries as well..
No the converter concerts ac to dc to charge batteries. There is still 12v power at the panel with the converter off its just not charging the batteries. The water pump, furnace, fridge and lights still run off the batteries
ultimately you are limited to the power of that socket, mine are fused for 15 amps. I thought i was going to be happy with that limited power but because i have a 5000 watt peak inverter I decided to hard wire in a 30 amp socket to my battery box/inverter. The only way you can get that full power of your inverter is to use your hard wire connections. Otherwise you are limited to small loads, Mine can actually crank my central a/c unit. Now i can easily get 30 amps output to my RV connection or to regular outlets
Thank you for this question. I do not run my a/c on my inverter. Just the entire RV. I turn my fridge on propane and water heater. Can go days with the inverter before needing charging. Thank you for watching.
The negative bus bar reduces potential differences between negatives. It also helps organize the power source. The negative bus bar has a ground wire connected to the bus chassis for safety, zero voltage, and fault path.
Thanks for that question. I would see what wire runs to your breaker box because it has to to be on one. And use that breaker to turn off. If it’s on a circuit with multiple items on it you may want to separate and put one in to its own circuit if you have room. I hope this help.
Thank you for posting the video, I had no idea how to use mine, was never told how to use it, after your video I ran to my coach and powered it on..thank you
Great question. I only have two batteries. Going with a large inverter I would recommend several batteries. Hope I answered your question. Thanks for watching.
For sure - thanks. We have a 30amp system and a 200 amp lithium battery. I'm guessing if I get a 3600 watt inverter I can pretty much mimic the shore power at 120v
Why didn't you just use the 'first' fuse under the TT? The second is unnecessary. I don't know what your C-rating is on your batteries but 200 A is really high.
I do believe your cable sizing isn’t rated for 200a max… copper 2awg 90* is only rated for 130 max. Drop your fuse sizing or increase wire size. That inverter does require 200amp with a 25% safety rating.
Sorry it took me so long to reply, I used 2/0 It’s a little thicker than 2 awg Here’s what I found on a wire companies webpage 2 AWG Wire 2 AWG wire has a diameter of 0.2576 inches (6.54 mm) and is commonly used for applications that require high ampacity, such as industrial equipment, heavy machinery, and large appliances. It has an ampacity of 115 amps at 60°C (140°F), 130 amps at 75°C (167°F), and 150 amps at 90°C (194°F). 2/0 AWG Wire 2/0 AWG wire has a diameter of 0.3648 inches (9.27 mm) and is larger than 2 AWG wire. This wire is commonly used in power distribution and transmission applications, as well as for grounding and bonding. It has an ampacity of 135 amps at 60°C (140°F), 155 amps at 75°C (167°F), and 180 amps at 90°C (194°F Thank you for watching and commenting. Hope this helps.
Dumb question I’m sure but can you explain what the bus bar is or what it does? I think you also have two going to the battery side of the inverter, is that correct? I’ve seen setups without one all together, just a fuse between the inverter and battery so I’m trying to understand it. I’ll put as many fuses and bus bars needed to stay safe from a fire 😂
No dumb questions here!!! So the bus bar is so you can connect all your positive or negative wires too. You are correct. Love having a lot of fuses. You never know. Thank you so much for that question. It’s a good one. Stay safe and happy camping.
Excellent video. We have a GD 2670mk with 2 lithium's maintained by 175w solar already with a converter. We want to add the same inverter so that when boondocking we have 110v off the batteries, but are maintained by the solar. So I'm guessing where you mentioned "switching off" the converter, we'd leave our on? Other than that, you've done just what we're about to do. Thank you for the video!
No. Any time you are running an inverter from your rig's batteries, turn off your converter at the breaker panel. Otherwise you will have the loop going, and no amount solar will offset that drain.
The converter's job is to try and charge the batteries when you are plugged into shore power. So think about it for a minute: Your inverter is plugged into the shore power, and it is powered by the same batteries the converter is trying to charge. It doesn't matter that you have solar also trying to charge the same batteries, The "loop" is going to win. Cut the loop, turn off the converter at the panel.
Thanks for this video. Very informative for someone looking to do a much simpler inverter setup. With that being said, you mentioned wiring it with your solar later. Do you have a video on how you did that if you have done it? We have solar panels on our rv and I’m thinking I want those wired in as well so that the battery can charge when the converter is switched off. Or at least that’s how I think it would work 😂
Absolutely. I believe there is a port to wire into. Unfortunately we did not get solar panels yet. But if we do we will make a video. Thanks for watching.
Good video. I want to add an inverter to my GD imagine, but am struggling with a comment that you made. You said you turn the converter off. By doing so, yes it doesn’t try to charge the battery, but doesn’t it also shut down your 12v system. Such as the furnace and water pump? I have a 12v Fridge that I believe is wired to the battery, not the converter. This is my only hold up. I plan on a 200ah Lithium battery.
Hey John. Thanks for reaching out. Although I’m am not an electrician or a RV tech this is only my opinion so if you are ever unsure I would check with an electrician. That being said. If I’m not mistaken when you click the breaker off to the converter from the electrical panel so you can use the Inverter from your batteries you are only turning off the converter breaker not the 12v system. You’re not turning the main breaker off which eliminates power to everything and will not allow the inverter to power anything because it stops at main coming in. Unless your panel is wired that way. I think with a few Lithium 200amp in parallel would be ok with the 12v fridge. Bad with numbers not sure how long though. Please let me know if I answered your question. I hope this was helpful.
Oh my. Can’t believe I missed this. Yes you can I have a friend who did it. But I would definitely read up about. Sorry for the delay. Just saw this. 🙄
Sorry if this is a dumb question (I’m a newbie) but by hooking your RV into the inverter, you still are using your converter, correct? So aren’t you then converting from DC to AC with the inverter and then AC back to DC creating a continuous loop which would drain your batteries even faster?
Thanks for the video! I am trying to do something similar with the same inverter and a truck camper. It looks like you didn't connect anything to the case's ground. Any thoughts on that?
@@TSquadRVing If you look at 6:29, right below the black, negative cover you will see a metal stud. My Renogy manual talks very, very briefly about this on page 11 I believe. My understanding is that's there to ground the metal case of the inverter should there be a fault with the inverter itself. Without that, a fault could cause the case to become hot which can easily be lethal with AC. I "think" you need to bond that to your neutral so that if a fault occurs it'll blow your fuse rather than leave the case hot...but I'm not confident in that. Worth noting that this is different than the GFCI protection the inverter provides for devices you plug into the inverter that might fault.
Guess What I’m doing tomorrow??? Good catch!!! And Thank you for that missed crucial part. Renogy Pure Sine Wave inverters come equipped with a grounding lug for appropriate grounding to earth ground or to another designated ground (For example, a metal frame of an RV). The connections to ground must be tight and against bare metal. Whether using the inverter in a mobile application, such as an RV or in a building, grounding is highly recommended. The recommended wire size for grounding is 10 AWG insulated copper strand wire. For more information regarding grounding, users and/or installers must consult with the Local and National Electric Codes (NEC) for more specific grounding regulations and suggestions as they can change per scenario.
They do not charge. You would be using the power from the batteries because you do not have any other source. Once you connect to shore power then it will charge them.
So, I have a similar set up, however, I used the hard wire from the inverter and wired directly to my panel. Ive since installed solar, and now my GFCI Breaker keeps popping, sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes 30 minutes. Prior to that, didn't have any issues. Any of your followers have some input? 400w 10bb JJN Solar Panels, 200AH Lithium Battery, 3000w pure sine inverter.
You should probably should look at installing a transfer switch, instead of wiring it directly into your distribution panel. With a transfer switch, you would wire your inverter and your converter/charger AC distribution panel, and shore power cord wire into the transfer switch and let it do the work. I just purchased a go power 30amp transfer switch to setup my system (2- 100ah lithium batteries, upgraded WFCO lithium supported converter / charger, with 2000 watt pure sine inverter). There's some great how to videos out there. they also have a 50 amp transfer switch if your RV is a 50 amp system).
I have the same inverter. I used the high out put and installed a 30 amp plug, less connections, and dont like using those adapters, seen those things melt and cause all sorts of problems. The plug was only 30 bucks and i can use my rv's 30 amp plug
Cant post a pic on here. 1: set up the inverter 2: access the high voltage output on the inverter 3: hook up your 30amp cable to the inverter (should be labled for hot/earth/negative) 4: purchase 30amp rv plug and hook the other end of the calbe to the plug. In my case, the plug and inverter are close to eachother so i only ran maybe 6 inches of 30amp cable. I mounted the inverter, inverter fuse, the solar charger and the 30amp plug on a peace of plywood. I then installed that into my pass-through storage close to the door and hooked up my inverter battery cables. I just open my hatch and plug in. I can run my entire trailer off of 30 amps high voltage out put. The 30 amp plug is also in a metal box with a door on it. The only down fall is that the storage door stays open when plugged in. For me thats no big deal, you can mount that 30 amp plug where ever you wish
You said you weren't gonna get into your batteries? You said you had lithium batteries? What group size are you using and what Make you using? I'm going to do a basic set up like that to my travel trailer and I'm trying to figure out what batteries to go with so that's why I'm asking.. Thank you....
Battery that I’m using now. I went with two amzn.to/44QvzCb
I have two 100Ah Battle Born lithium batteries and 400 watts of solar panels, 3000w inverter (pure sine wave)
@@jonedwards2107battle born expensive…I like power queen for good quality , service and price!
@@jonedwards2107I'm currently building a similar system. Quick question, if you had it to do over would you build a larger solar array, or is 400 watts of Solar enough to use your system at a high efficiency rate?
If you have a 30amp solar controller, max it. Go to 600 watts of solar. I am going to add another panel.
The perfect solution to my temporary needs. Proverbial snake but I was having a brain fart regarding tying into the panel. Knew the converter would need to be disconnected at night when I switch to the inverter from generator.
Thanks so much 🙏
Excellent video. I am doing this same thing right now. Was very helpful to watch this before I started my project. Thanks!
This is my setup works great run one of my 15k ac with a soft start even .
Very helpful, thank you for sharing, I needed this
The only thing that I can think of that I would do different would be to take a hook up adapter wire with hook up and just cut the other end off and connect it to the hardwire hookup connection this will give you a better power connection and I believe better current flow check your user manual to be sure but I think I'm right. :-)
Experience is the best teacher.
1. You might consider using at least a 3000W FSW Inverter.
2. You definitely want to use a charge controller so you won't cook your batteries. Maybe your inverter has one, some do.
3. You won't be able to get near your battery switch if there is a fire.
4. You definitely want to use the inverter remote inside the RV... Bad weather... and just a pain to get into the basement.
5. You will want to hardwire as much as possible because of vibration when traveling. You can still use the extension cords. Most receptacles are very loose.
6. You may also want to wire in a relay to switch between shore power and Inverter power. I use the 80A 120VAC coil relays and the coil is wired to shore power.
I would argue the wired relay is a no brainer.
Very informative and helpful, thanks.
Why did you use 20 amp cord instead of 30 amp to 110 converter? Thanks for video exactly what I'm trying to do! Not enough money to pay someone to install 👌
Hey!! Thanks for that question. So. I don’t think I would be pulling a more than 20amps so I decided to go with it. Works great. Love using my Inverter when we are at Harvest Hosts or Cracker Barrels for the night when no Generators are allowed. Gives me enough and some power to get through the night using all my plugs and tv on. (Just don’t forget to turn off outside refrigerator 😂. Glad it helped. And thank you again!
Your video is great but im tryingvto do that very same thing but on an older trailer which does not have a switch like that to shut off the power converter
Thank you so much for watching and your comment. So a friend of mine has the same issue (if we call it that). He placed the converter on a switch. Hope this reply encourages you. Thanks again
@@TSquadRVing thank you very much. Now i just got to figure out how to wire a switch to it .
I may have already asked, if so forgive me. Are the receptacles on the inverter 15 amp? It seems in the owners manual, that’s what it said. Sadly, allied Renogy, they are phone people that no zilch. QUESTION; Did you ground your inverter? So far I don’t see anyone showing that. Thanks
Hi! I am a new Rv owner and I want exactly the same thing as you wanted to be able to watch tv while stopped for the night at a rest area or a harvest host that don’t like generators. My question is if you turn off the converter will your DC power still work? And you said that you can recharge the batteries through just plugging into either a generator or shore power even with lithium batteries? Someone told me that my charge controller that came with my Rv would not charge lithium batteries. So they were wrong or did you have to change your charge controller for lithium? Thanks for the great video and sorry for all the questions.
Well by turning the converter off you do not need DC because you are using your batteries thru the cord from your Inverter. And yes when plugging into shore power or the generator making sure that you converter is back on like a normal hookup it changes the batteries regardless if it’s Lithium. I am not aware of any charge controller for lithium. But as I always say if you are unsure I would continue to look into it.
When we go to a Harvest host this is my routine.
1. Turn Converter Breaker off. This way your not trying to charge your batteries with its own power!!!
2. Connect my cord to my Inverter and RV (like connecting to Shore Power)
3. We use our batteries all night for TV, charging our devises, lights. Keeping our Fridge on Propane uses less power from the batteries.
4. Monitor the batteries. By the time we wake up we have just enough power to close up the RV.
5 disconnect RV from Inverter
6. Turn Converter on so while driving to your next location it charges your batteries.
Always make sure that you do not drain your lithium’s.
Hope this helps. Safe travels.
@@TSquadRVing Thank you so very much for taking the time to explain everything to me! I am a single female traveling alone and need all the advice I can get. I also joined harvest host! You mentioned a victron item. Can I ask what that is? Is that a charge controller also? And several people say you need fuses and bus bars and things I have no idea what they are for or do. Would you ever consider making a video showing set by step how you did it and everything we would need? I am sure there are many people that would love to see how to do it! Because this is exactly what most of us need. Thank you again and happy travels. Stay safe!
I have watched several of your videos and have learned so much!
Tonya, If I’m not mistaking, I believe you were asking about your factory converter being able to charge your lithium batteries or not. Most RVs and travel trailers a few years old have converters that are not Lithium specific. It will still charge your lithium batteries, but not charge them more than 80% of its capacity. You would need a specific lithium-capable converter to fully charge your lithium batteries. Most of the time, you can get a lithium-capable converter with identical specs as the converter that the factory installed.
What if you hate coffee - I mean the taste of it?
⁴⁴4j
Be sure you don't pull 20 amps from that inverter. As them outlets are only rated for 15 amps each..The direct connection on it is rated for 20amps..
Excellent point
Novice question - how do you ensure you don't pull 20 amps? Also with a 3000w inverter could I run my micro and air?
@@mjcoleman You can run a microwave or AC unit But not both on high..
@@WizzRacingThank you
You could use your standard RV power cord (30-50A) with adapter and plug to inverter
Wire loom is not intended to replace a grommet… use a grommet when u go thru things u don’t want the wire to chafe on.
You spot on. I ended purchasing misl grommet sizes and place one on that metal frame. Now I’m stuck with 180 piece set from Amazon. Lol. Thanks so much for your comment. Good observation.
Why don't you put in a "TRANSFER"" switch, in bottom bbay area so ONE SWITCH to turn off converter on on inverter.
Nice set up but 2000 watts not enough to run a dryer
I would say no. Thank you so much for watching.
There's no point in that 20 amp plug adapter and giant extension cord because it is still only a 15 amp outlet coming from your inverter. If you turn on too much AC equipment in the RV, you'll trip your inverter beyond the 15 amp load. Why not just use a regular heavy duty 15 amp rated extension cord with an adapter to plug into your RV connection port?
I would agree. So I should have mentioned the reason why I have a 20amp wire is I use for my generator when needed. Thanks so much for your comment.
I have the same inverter and mounted it very similar to what you did. It works great! One difference was I control couple nice mounted power strips that plug right in. Then I use one circuit hard wired in the camper. The reasons I decided against the way you chose is this way it operates the same weather I am plugged in or not. No remembering to turn the charger back on or off and I don’t need to make a connection or leave my storage compartment open. I also cannot accidentally use the microwave or heat or AC on my batteries which would drain very quickly if you did.
I also chose to use the remote function as it just takes a moment to see and push the button if Ive left it on or need to turn it back on.
Can I do this with my Class A Motorhome ? Will it run my Roof top A/C Unit ? What is the minimum size Inverter should I go with to safely run everything in my Class A Motorhome ?
I would think you can do this with any rv. Sorry for the delay. I do not get notified when I get comments.
If you have a fuse at the battery you don’t need a fuse on the same line close to the inverter. High current draw anywhere will blow the fuse. The reason you put a fuse close to battery is to protect the wire shorting.
Ok, you said you are adding solar later so how are you charging your batters if you have the RV converter turned off and the inverter running off from your batteries? What kepts the batteries charged?.
Once you are done using the inverter turning the converter back on when you connect to any source of power that will charge your batteries. If it’s sitting for months I take the batteries and place on a trickle charger. Hope this helped.
Battery fuse needs to be within a foot of the battery
When did you install your inverter, wondering if you’ve had any issues? I just bought a 3,000 watt Renogy pure sine wave inverter, 2 x Redodo 230 amp hour batteries. As soon as I get my hydrologic press to put the lugs on the 4/0 copper, I’m installing it. One pointer. I plan to install a 30 amp female plug next to my inverter, with a stock plastic access hole for my Shore power cord can fit through. Since I’m using 3,000 watt inverter, 460 amp hours batteries, 4/0 copper, I’ll be able to plug right in. The camper will think it’s plugged in. I should be able to run the microwave for almost 6 hours, AC for 2 1/2 continuous hours. I only have a 190 watt panel from the factory, adding one 200 watt to the roof. That should give me about another hour run time in good sun. I’ll be testing and in all likelihood, this will serve my needs. I wish I could get enough solar and battery to be self sustaining so all the federal campgrounds that don’t have electricity will be open for camping. Did you ever test to see if you turn off the converter, the 12 volt refrigerator will still run? I forgot about it until watching this again, thanks
So turning off the breaker for the converter in the rv do your 12 volt lights work? I thought the converter charges the battery and converts shore power to 12 volts for lights vent fans ect.
Correct. But the breaker off eliminates a continued cycle when using the inverter with the batteries (without shore power) And you wouldn’t need the 12v system if using the inverter for power. we are simply using the batteries when we do not have shore power to power the entire rv of course with out using the AC.
How much did you spend on all of it?
Yes I have a question , class a rv with onboard genny but would like to do a simple plug in for tv and lights. Understand I need to turn off inverter on the rv . But by doing that am I turning. Off the 12volt pilot lights to fridge and water heater that we would run on propane while BD ing . That’s my concern or does the inverter have nothing to do with the lights and other 12 volts system that runs off the house batteries as well..
QUESTION; IF YOU HAVE A 12 VOLT REFRIGERATOR, WILL CUTTING OFF THE CONVERTER, KILL THE REFRIGERATOR?
Hey. I think it would. You should try and let us know. Thanks for watching.
No the converter concerts ac to dc to charge batteries. There is still 12v power at the panel with the converter off its just not charging the batteries. The water pump, furnace, fridge and lights still run off the batteries
ultimately you are limited to the power of that socket, mine are fused for 15 amps. I thought i was going to be happy with that limited power but because i have a 5000 watt peak inverter I decided to hard wire in a 30 amp socket to my battery box/inverter. The only way you can get that full power of your inverter is to use your hard wire connections. Otherwise you are limited to small loads, Mine can actually crank my central a/c unit.
Now i can easily get 30 amps output to my RV connection or to regular outlets
Do you wire a 30 amp female plug / pig tail to the hard wire section on the inverter.
Wondering how the inverter did for running your A/C. Did things work out as expected?
Thank you for this question. I do not run my a/c on my inverter. Just the entire RV. I turn my fridge on propane and water heater. Can go days with the inverter before needing charging. Thank you for watching.
I love that buss connector to the battery! In case of an EM. Good idea.
If you do not turn off the breaker for your converter while using your inverter you will drain your batterys very quickly I have made that mistake.
Rewatch 15:15
@@TSquadRVing I was just emphasizing the statement
Can inverter 1000w work with battery 200ah to run screen 32 inch and 8 bulbs in 24 hours
Thanks for watching. Yes that should work. Make sure you use LED bulbs. I used two 110 AH batteries and had no issues. Good luck.
Very good narrative, details and videography = From Vancouver British Columbia Canada = Cheers "eh" lol
I don't understand what the negative bus bar is doing? Why do you need a connection to that?
The negative bus bar reduces potential differences between negatives. It also helps organize the power source. The negative bus bar has a ground wire connected to the bus chassis for safety, zero voltage, and fault path.
Just wondering why you didn't put the shut off BEFORE the busbar....so it stops power to anything connected to the busbar?
That exactly what I am reversing.
I have a 1989 motor home - I don’t think it has a switch to turn off the inverter. Where would that switch be?
Thanks for that question. I would see what wire runs to your breaker box because it has to to be on one. And use that breaker to turn off. If it’s on a circuit with multiple items on it you may want to separate and put one in to its own circuit if you have room. I hope this help.
Very informative video. Do you have a wiring diagram with wire gauge sizes?
I do. I will have to dig through my stuff. Lol. Send me your email address tsquadrving@gmail.com
We don't do a lot of boondocking and like you we usually stop at a rest area or Walmart. This sounds like a great idea. Thank you..
Thanks for the info. I am just starting to bump up my batteries capabilities by going from 1 battery to 2 batteries with an inverter.
Thank you for posting the video, I had no idea how to use mine, was never told how to use it, after your video I ran to my coach and powered it on..thank you
Why didnt you go for a 12000 watt inverter so you could minic 50amp shore and run your air / micro etc?
Great question. I only have two batteries. Going with a large inverter I would recommend several batteries. Hope I answered your question. Thanks for watching.
For sure - thanks. We have a 30amp system and a 200 amp lithium battery. I'm guessing if I get a 3600 watt inverter I can pretty much mimic the shore power at 120v
Oh perfect, you ha😮the same inverter as me
Why didn't you just use the 'first' fuse under the TT? The second is unnecessary. I don't know what your C-rating is on your batteries but 200 A is really high.
I do believe your cable sizing isn’t rated for 200a max… copper 2awg 90* is only rated for 130 max. Drop your fuse sizing or increase wire size. That inverter does require 200amp with a 25% safety rating.
That cable looks like a 2/0 not a 2awg to me....maybe he can clarify? I can't see the lettering on it with the video.
Sorry it took me so long to reply, I used 2/0 It’s a little thicker than 2 awg
Here’s what I found on a wire companies webpage
2 AWG Wire
2 AWG wire has a diameter of 0.2576 inches (6.54 mm) and is commonly used for applications that require high ampacity, such as industrial equipment, heavy machinery, and large appliances. It has an ampacity of 115 amps at 60°C (140°F), 130 amps at 75°C (167°F), and 150 amps at 90°C (194°F).
2/0 AWG Wire
2/0 AWG wire has a diameter of 0.3648 inches (9.27 mm) and is larger than 2 AWG wire. This wire is commonly used in power distribution and transmission applications, as well as for grounding and bonding. It has an ampacity of 135 amps at 60°C (140°F), 155 amps at 75°C (167°F), and 180 amps at 90°C (194°F
Thank you for watching and commenting. Hope this helps.
Thank you for watching. Yes. I used 2/0 wire. It’s a little thicker. I didn’t like thiner wires they provided.
why the big ON/OFF switch? why not just the little one on the Inverter?
I placed one there so I do not have continuous power running to the inverter. That’s a great question. Thanks for watching.
Dumb question I’m sure but can you explain what the bus bar is or what it does? I think you also have two going to the battery side of the inverter, is that correct? I’ve seen setups without one all together, just a fuse between the inverter and battery so I’m trying to understand it. I’ll put as many fuses and bus bars needed to stay safe from a fire 😂
No dumb questions here!!! So the bus bar is so you can connect all your positive or negative wires too. You are correct. Love having a lot of fuses. You never know. Thank you so much for that question. It’s a good one. Stay safe and happy camping.
@@TSquadRVing good to know!! Thank you!
So what are you able to run with the 2,000 watt inverter? It seems it takes 3,000 to run everything? Thanks
We run fans, every plug in the rv works so we are able to run our computers or charge our phones.
Is your Renogy still holding up?
Excellent video. We have a GD 2670mk with 2 lithium's maintained by 175w solar already with a converter. We want to add the same inverter so that when boondocking we have 110v off the batteries, but are maintained by the solar. So I'm guessing where you mentioned "switching off" the converter, we'd leave our on? Other than that, you've done just what we're about to do. Thank you for the video!
No. Any time you are running an inverter from your rig's batteries, turn off your converter at the breaker panel. Otherwise you will have the loop going, and no amount solar will offset that drain.
The converter's job is to try and charge the batteries when you are plugged into shore power. So think about it for a minute: Your inverter is plugged into the shore power, and it is powered by the same batteries the converter is trying to charge. It doesn't matter that you have solar also trying to charge the same batteries, The "loop" is going to win. Cut the loop, turn off the converter at the panel.
Very practical video. Not a ton of preamble. Really appreciate it. Thank you.
Thanks for this video. Very informative for someone looking to do a much simpler inverter setup. With that being said, you mentioned wiring it with your solar later. Do you have a video on how you did that if you have done it? We have solar panels on our rv and I’m thinking I want those wired in as well so that the battery can charge when the converter is switched off. Or at least that’s how I think it would work 😂
Absolutely. I believe there is a port to wire into. Unfortunately we did not get solar panels yet. But if we do we will make a video. Thanks for watching.
Good video. I want to add an inverter to my GD imagine, but am struggling with a comment that you made. You said you turn the converter off. By doing so, yes it doesn’t try to charge the battery, but doesn’t it also shut down your 12v system. Such as the furnace and water pump? I have a 12v Fridge that I believe is wired to the battery, not the converter. This is my only hold up. I plan on a 200ah Lithium battery.
Email me tsquadrving@gmail.com
Hey John. Thanks for reaching out. Although I’m am not an electrician or a RV tech this is only my opinion so if you are ever unsure I would check with an electrician.
That being said.
If I’m not mistaken when you click the breaker off to the converter from the electrical panel so you can use the Inverter from your batteries you are only turning off the converter breaker not the 12v system. You’re not turning the main breaker off which eliminates power to everything and will not allow the inverter to power anything because it stops at main coming in. Unless your panel is wired that way. I think with a few Lithium 200amp in parallel would be ok with the 12v fridge. Bad with numbers not sure how long though.
Please let me know if I answered your question. I hope this was helpful.
Any links to where you got your water proof fuse housing for your in line battery fuse that’s mounted outside of the basement?
amzn.to/3npfUbq
This 2000w inverter will drain your 2 batteries FAST
So if the converter is off, how do you charge the battery?
@@latrallsimon3825 solar
Double check that type fuse. With parallel batteries i think you need a class T. For the AIC RATING
I have a question, my RV has a solar panel, can I do the same, put an inverter on it?
Oh my. Can’t believe I missed this. Yes you can I have a friend who did it. But I would definitely read up about. Sorry for the delay. Just saw this. 🙄
What size of cable did you use from the inverted to the batteries?
How do you “add” an inverter to an horse trailer with 110 and 12 volt already built and wired?
Silly question but doesn’t the inverter already have a fuse built in that would trip? Could I go directly from the battery to the inverter
Sorry if this is a dumb question (I’m a newbie) but by hooking your RV into the inverter, you still are using your converter, correct? So aren’t you then converting from DC to AC with the inverter and then AC back to DC creating a continuous loop which would drain your batteries even faster?
Correct. Well. Not really. You turn the breaker off to stop it from going in a circle.
An no way. It’s not a dumb question. It’s an excellent question.
@@TSquadRVing ok thanks. Makes sense.
15:13
15:13
Thanks for the video! I am trying to do something similar with the same inverter and a truck camper. It looks like you didn't connect anything to the case's ground. Any thoughts on that?
Hmmmm. Trying to understand the question. Can you give me a time in the video.
@@TSquadRVing If you look at 6:29, right below the black, negative cover you will see a metal stud. My Renogy manual talks very, very briefly about this on page 11 I believe. My understanding is that's there to ground the metal case of the inverter should there be a fault with the inverter itself. Without that, a fault could cause the case to become hot which can easily be lethal with AC. I "think" you need to bond that to your neutral so that if a fault occurs it'll blow your fuse rather than leave the case hot...but I'm not confident in that. Worth noting that this is different than the GFCI protection the inverter provides for devices you plug into the inverter that might fault.
Guess What I’m doing tomorrow??? Good catch!!! And Thank you for that missed crucial part.
Renogy Pure Sine Wave inverters come equipped with a grounding lug for appropriate grounding to earth ground or to another designated ground (For example, a metal frame of an RV). The connections to ground must be tight and against bare metal. Whether using the inverter in a mobile application, such as an RV or in a building, grounding is highly recommended. The recommended wire size for grounding is 10 AWG insulated copper strand wire. For more information regarding grounding, users and/or installers must consult with the Local and National Electric Codes (NEC) for more specific grounding regulations and suggestions as they can change per scenario.
@@TSquadRVing Hope it goes smoothly! I'm still trying to figure out what to do with an all wood truck camper.
Please send pics when done. I like to see progress. Lol.
Can you hard wire the inverter to the camper?
great video, but how the batteries charge if u turn off the converter?
They do not charge. You would be using the power from the batteries because you do not have any other source. Once you connect to shore power then it will charge them.
You would require a solar setup in order to charge your batteries when not connected to shore power.
So, I have a similar set up, however, I used the hard wire from the inverter and wired directly to my panel. Ive since installed solar, and now my GFCI Breaker keeps popping, sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes 30 minutes. Prior to that, didn't have any issues. Any of your followers have some input?
400w 10bb JJN Solar Panels, 200AH Lithium Battery, 3000w pure sine inverter.
You should probably should look at installing a transfer switch, instead of wiring it directly into your distribution panel.
With a transfer switch, you would wire your inverter and your converter/charger AC distribution panel, and shore power cord wire into the transfer switch and let it do the work.
I just purchased a go power 30amp transfer switch to setup my system (2- 100ah lithium batteries, upgraded WFCO lithium supported converter / charger, with 2000 watt pure sine inverter).
There's some great how to videos out there. they also have a 50 amp transfer switch if your RV is a 50 amp system).
Agreed
Where is the link to the adapter that you plug into the rv?
amzn.to/3RbgMMb
Hey I was your 1K like! Thanks for the video!
Awesome! Thank you!
very nice video enjoy the entire vdo tnx for sharing❤️
Great video.
I have the same inverter. I used the high out put and installed a 30 amp plug, less connections, and dont like using those adapters, seen those things melt and cause all sorts of problems. The plug was only 30 bucks and i can use my rv's 30 amp plug
Can you show what your set up looks like? Where is the 30 amp plug in high output?
@terrywhitelock2999 trailer is in storage right now, but when i get to it i will snap a pic
Cant post a pic on here.
1: set up the inverter
2: access the high voltage output on the inverter
3: hook up your 30amp cable to the inverter (should be labled for hot/earth/negative)
4: purchase 30amp rv plug and hook the other end of the calbe to the plug.
In my case, the plug and inverter are close to eachother so i only ran maybe 6 inches of 30amp cable. I mounted the inverter, inverter fuse, the solar charger and the 30amp plug on a peace of plywood. I then installed that into my pass-through storage close to the door and hooked up my inverter battery cables. I just open my hatch and plug in. I can run my entire trailer off of 30 amps high voltage out put. The 30 amp plug is also in a metal box with a door on it. The only down fall is that the storage door stays open when plugged in. For me thats no big deal, you can mount that 30 amp plug where ever you wish
Tsquadrving@gmail.com