We are old 76 and 71 newbies to RVing and purchased a used Thor ACE 30.2 two months ago and after reviewing many You Tube videos have decided to purchase a inverter and your video was so helpful in instructing on a install.....Thank you... p.s. Karen and I would love a shirt...XraLg... That would be fun for us old seniors... Thanks again for the great video.
Well thank you so much. Glad to hear I could help out. I have a Facebook group of you are on that. Also, check out my website to order shirts... whynotrvusa.com
Hey Paul, thanks for watching. I greatly appreciate that. If you follow my channel you will shortly see a new video where I ended up upgrading to the Victron Multiplus but this inverter is for sale lol. I started my channel for that purpose, try to help people make learn more and make less mistakes while RVing. Hopefully in the most clear and concise manner possible.
I'm tackling removing my Norcold 2118 refrigerator in my 2019 Montana, and putting in a Whirlpool residential fridge. I am going to go the inverter route, lithium batteries, and with an inverter that has an automatic transfer switch. Thank you for making a great video.
Thank you for watching! It’s a big project. You got ahead of yourself. Keep browsing through my channel. You’ll see tons of information that will continue to help you. Thank you again.
Hey, Chris. Thank you for the video out of all the videos. I've watched to install an inverter. Yours was by far. The best questions I have, Would be when to turn on and off your main power and your inverter. When towing and pulling up into a full hook up campsite. Definitely what you want to do. Any harm to a the inverter? Or a plug from your vehicle during towing. Nor would I want to short circuit. Anything in a full hook up again. Thank you for that video.
Great to hear!!! I appreciate the comment. You’ll want to turn the breaker coming from the inverter off before turning the breaker coming from shore power on and vice versa. The inverter can be powered down when not in use. It being on and powering the rig while towing is perfectly fine and safe so long as it’s installed properly. Hopefully that answers all of your questions. Thank you again!!!
I've been searching for a hardwired inverter install for days and I finally found your video. Everyone else seems to just plug their shore power plug into the inverter and that just feels temporary and cheap. Thank you so much for this video, it's exactly what I've been looking for.
I would like to add one item of consideration; most RVs have a 12v power supply which charges the house batteries when connected to shore power. You'll want to add a relay to turn that off if you're powering the entire panel off of an inverter, otherwise you'll just be wasting power with the battery trying to charge itself.
Man I gave up on TH-cam inverter install tutorials. I’ll be honest I wanted to skip over yours, but I’m glad I didn’t. Thanks for making sense of this all.
Thank you! Of all the installation videos I’ve watched yours is the most explanatory. I recently bought a motorhome and the previous owner had installed a 3000 W inverter but; he installed two huge additional AGM batteries with the inverter, in one of the regular storage bays. This terrified me as the bay was almost ripped off its mountings due the the weight of the batteries. The bay being right in front of the rear wheels, was a death trap waiting to happen. My quandary was how I could integrate the new batteries with the existing ones, you answered that by showing what you did. Thanks.
This whole setup does in fact create a potentially very unsafe - maybe even deadly - situation. I felt that this needed an additional, separate comment besides the one I saw posted a year ago. That other responder posted in ALL CAPS so I think many people might not have taken his comment seriously, and he also did not really explain WHY it is so dangerous. The inverter connection to the camper's electrical system WILL work as shown, but it's safety (both for personal injury as well as equipment damage) is COMPLETELY DEPENDENT on the operator properly setting both the Main breaker and the Inverter breaker the right way, EVERY time. In order for the inverter to not suffer catastrophic damage, and to prevent the possible situation where the AC supply cord to the RV - with its fully exposed terminals - comes into contact with a person's skin causing instant electrocution, the operator must be certain to NEVER leave the Main breaker turned on at the same time as the Inverter and its breaker are On. With both of them (admittedly, accidentally) left On at the same time, the 110V from the inverter will appear on the exposed prongs of the RVs connecting cord, or at least on the (also) exposed terminals of the plug in the outside wall of the RV even if no cord is plugged into it. That could easily be touched by a person and cause electrocution. On the less serious side, the Shore/Mains power (if still connected and available) could connect directly to the Inverter's output terminals and most likely cause instant destruction to the Inverter, and possibly even start a fire. Yes, you can stress all that you want that the operator should never turn on both switches at the same time (and I certainly did not see that stressed very strongly in this video, either) but when serious equipment damage and ESPECIALLY a life--threatening situation is a possible result, one should never depend on the infallibility of a human operator when such a mistake could so easily be made and the safe/proper method is so easily within reach. That method is, of course, to use a transfer switch, which would ensure that no mistake of the operator could ever create the potentially catastrophic situation described above. I saw that the creator of this video seems to have offered a correct method in what I guess is a separate video (I did not watch it but I assume he later showed the proper method using a transfer switch), but I agree with the other poster who recommended that this particular video be taken down. I hope I have made my case clear.
Thank you for the well written comment. I have so we changed to a whole different setup and have commented on here multiple times to use either an automatic transfer switch or manual transfer switch for safety and reliability.
There is also an inverter that I bought in Amazon that instead of outlets has input and output of the Romex wire and an internal bypass. Basically you splice the Romex wire that feeds the outlets (usually three receptacles) that we need to run with the inverter (TV/one outside and another in the kitchen). That circuit is typically a 15amp breaker in the panel power box. It is interrupted with the inverter but the receptacles always work as they should getting power from the panel when there is shoreline power, it senses shore line current in the Romex coming from the panel box so it bypasses and feeds the outlets in the output. Yet, when that electricity stop (unplugged the shoreline) then it switches seamless (in milliseconds) and feeds the output Romex from the battery. This way you never make a mistake, because if you forget one of the steps you do now it can get ugly back feeding the power box, and DC is fast and can fry cables and circuits in a second, not to mention the converter is being fed power and will loop back 12V to the batteries so it will send them to an early grave. Here is the one I bought and I love it, never have to even remember and I keep it on forever. I placed a battery disconnect next to it for those times it is in storage but you can leave it on otherwise. There are other fancy ones but this one was plenty for me. Others even have a charger where you can also plug the solar panels and it will charge batteries from shoreline and solar so you can discard the converter and the controller as well, but I already had those, so I kept it simple with this one. Besides, I don't want to rely in only one piece of equipment for everything, not all eggs in one basket, so is best that if one fails we have two other things working. www.amazon.com/dp/B074CHSXBD/?coliid=I3HMS0WQMOMH8K&colid=W8Y4O0WL8YQW&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it AIMS Power PWRIX120012SUL Pure Sine Inverter with Transfer Switch, 1200W Continuous Power, 2400W Surge Peak Power, Intelligent Cooling Fan, Less Than 20msec Transfer Time
Absolutely the better way to go. I have since upgraded this old rig to a multiplus and now my new rig with dual 5kva Quattro inverters. Definitely the best situation
Thanks for the thorough explanation AND detailed demonstration. Many other TH-camrs describe the task, and then don't have video showing all the steps and connections (they either speed up the playback speed, omit segments, or don't have the camera positioned properly for a direct view); Yours walks through everything, which includes the circuit breaker install/wiring AND battery wiring connections. I have an inverter and hope to bring it inline, but also a standalone lithium power supply bank with controlller that I also plan to incorporate, either via the 30 amp shoreline power adapter route, or maybe via the fuse panel/circuit breaker approach you demonstrated. There are replacement manual blockout/switch paired breakers to disable one input source (e.g., shoreline) and enabling another (e.g., inverter) that I had installed on my residence for backup external electric generator, I might look into that option for safety's sake.
Wow that was an awesome install. I didn't want to mess with the panel so I just added a transfer switch for the Converter and added two outlets. One for the inverter and one for the converter..I take the shore cable and plug it in and I'm live!.
@@WhyNotRV it did a bunch of research and it made sense to me at the time. I do have to swap the plug when I want to use the Generator but with the inverter my kids can charge mobile devices and watch TV when parked. I have a quick video on my channel if you want to check it out.
It's been a while since the last comment. Hopefully, you still respond to questions. I used your approach and was pretty excited when all seemed to work. I connected the line wire from Renology 2000W inverter to 20 AMP breaker to back-feed panel (12 awg romex), neutral to neutral bus bar in panel, and ground to ground bus bar in panel. In my testing, it all seemed to work!! Using the inverter, all the expected 120V circuits worked as expected! Then, it was time to charge the battery from shore power. I turned off the breaker for inverter, turned on breaker for main power and connected to shore power. This instantly popped the shore-power breaker in the garage. I completely removed the inverter's breaker from the RV's panel and tested again. Shore power still popped. Even with the RV's main power breaker OFF, the shore-power breaker still popped. Only after I removed the inverter's ground and neutral wires from the panel's respective bus-bars did the shore-power breaker no longer pop. An earlier comment said something like this, "If you connect the inverter to the common neutral this gives an additional path to ground that will trip ground faults when you plug your camper in..." I don't understand this, but I think this is what is happening. What are my options?
I’m not sure what the problem is when this happens. Apparently it’s happened to other people as well obviously. It definitely seems to be a way certain RVs are wired or certain shore power maybe. Have you tried it at a different campground with different shore power? Or has the other person with the same issue commented his work around or anything?
@@WhyNotRV Thanks for the quick reply. I talked to an electrician friend and found the following link samlexamerica.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/13009-0614_NeutraltoGroundSwitchinginRVandMarineApplications.pdf. Both explain that there can only be one point in the system in which neutral is bonded to the ground. Otherwise, due to wire impedance, there can be a slight voltage difference on the neutral wire. My Renology inverter states that neutral and ground are bonded inside it. Neutral and ground are bonded in the panel as well. A small voltage difference is detected by a GFCI and trips the GFCI. My breaker in the garage is indeed a GFCI breaker. It was not tripping due to overload, rather due to this small voltage difference between neutral and ground. Bottom line, this set-up won't work for me with my Renology inverter. Note that ALL campground shore power is supposed to be GFCI protected. I'm backing it out. Still, your solution was pretty ingenious, and I appreciate all the hard work to put the video together.
You made that look really easy. Thank you for the wiring diagram. I have a truck camper that I am considering installing an inverter into. This video was very helpful. Thank you.
I am in the middle of a similar project and you gave me an idea to use a breaker in the power panel for the inverter. That is a much easier than wiring up a separate switch.
Best thing to do is a transfer switch. You have to be very careful when doing it this way as if you leave that breaker in and connect to shore power you’ll fry the inverter
@@WhyNotRV thanks. I will install one but in the meantime i will unplug the ac output and swich off the DC input when i am not using it. 95% of the time we will get AC from a site power pole and only use it when stopped for rest breaks.
I have a keystone hideout with solar on the roof (solar flex 200) and a 15amp charge controller. The trailer has 7 outlets that can be wired for use with solar with an inverter. There is an "inverter loop wire" in the pass through storage that I can connect to an inverter to power the outlets. However, my issue is that since the wire is looped, it will have 2 ends when cut. I cannot find any information online as to where I connect the ends of the wire. I know one goes into the ac output of the inverter but that still leaves one end of the looped wire.
Depending on the type of inverter you get, what you’d do is have the side that comes from the breaker go to AC in on the inverter and the side that goes to the outlets to as out.
So what you would need to do it properly is a transfer switch. You can either do an automatic one and spend some money or do a manual one. But you can have essentially the power comes in from shore into the transfer switch and out is to those plugs then the inverter gets wired into the transfer switch at the second power in. So when you lose your power it will switch to inverter power.
@@WhyNotRV that makes sense to me. However, where the wiring is, is not diagramming well by keystone. Which is funny to say the least. And I would have to essentially destroy the underside of the camper to find it. But, I guess that's how it is. Thank you for your help!
Hey James, thanks for watching. I appreciate that. Solar is on my list but with my current rig I’m thinking of doing a portable / deployable version. If you go to my channel you’ll see I actually upgraded to the Victron multiplus recently. Love it. Thanks again
Just found this - Awesome video I cant tell if you ran a 10 gauge or a 12 gauge. 12 gauge wire only rated for 20 amps if it’s 12 You should replace that 30 amp breaker with a 20 amp for consistency.Great vid thanks for posting.
if you connect the inverter to the common neutral this gives an additional path to ground that will trip ground faults when you plug your camper in. it's far better to connect an automatic transfer switch. this also makes it impossible to backfeed the inverter
Exactly what I’m planning to do to our 29’ travel trailer. So two 100 amp hour batteries (in parallel) will support/be a good match for a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter? Basically want to run what your selected when we’re boondocking.
Good job, I wish I could do that to my little travel trailer. I have dual batteries and solar on the roof it would be nice to have a inverter to power everything from the batteries.
Nice walk through. Curious why you didnt wire in a transfer switch? This would allow you two benefits. Never worry about the converter charging the battery and never worry about back feeding the inverter at all.
This is an older install. I have newer videos with inverters having transfer switch built in as well as others including a transfer switch. Easy to add and definitely the better way. Thank you for watching!!!
RICK TARA lol it’s perfectly straight. The angle of the camera throws it way off though. Thanks for watching. Be sure to subscribe so you don’t miss anything
It has enough power to run the AC but not start it, unless you install a micro-air easy start. Look through my channel and you’ll see my video on installing that.
Thank you for the tutorial, make it look to simple. But I get lost on the circuit breaker, is there a simple way? I can take a photo of mine and send it to you to see if can help me, please.
Great video. Could you have wired directly to the main incoming breaker and put a disconnect switch going to the inverter. I assume that being that its not connected externally by a power source and you turn the inverter switch on you can then power all your breakers? Also, do you feel that the 2000 watt inverter was big enough. I have a much smaller RV and less circuits than you and now I'm going to put in a 2000 watt vs 3000 watt....Again, Great video.Thank you
Hey Tim, thanks for the comment. To do it right with the main breaker there should be a transfer switch (automatic or manual). With my setup being a 50 amp panel it has 2 legs to it so this setup was only feeding 1 leg but I balanced my loads to power everything I wanted. The 2000 watt was fine for the initial needs. Now that I run my ac through my inverter I upgraded to a Victron multiplus 3000 but the 2000 was plenty for the microwave, which was the largest draw.
Awesome video it answers alot questions but I don't get how you wired your breaker box fuses to only run on the inverter if you can show me that I would be grateful because I have been on TH-cam for a long time trying to find the right video thank you I want to do my inverter just like your so please help me
can you add the wiring diagram. i love your setup. this is new to me and have been watching lots of videos on this. you is the first that is very basic but it dowes exactly what i want to do. also parts list would be great .
Your battery is what is supplying voltage to the inverter to produce power. In order to charge your batteries, you either need to be plugged into shore, Power for a regular charging or you can do solar that can recharge your batteries.
Why not rv, thanks for this video. Great idea and less complicated than others I've watched. I followed your links and bought all the components you listed. In a motorhome, are there any concerns with running the inverter while underway, and while it's batteries are being charged by the engine alternator? Also, is the circuit breaker really needed when the inverter already has overload protection? Thanks!
Hey Tommy thanks for watching. A circuit break not only protects the wire and the battery but also gives you an easy way to cut the power to the inverter so I definitely recommend it but it technically doesn’t need it. To me there are no concerns with it running while underway. Many new RVs have inverters already installed that run the residential fridges 24/7 so that should be perfectly fine.
Great content !...just subscribe and booked mark this as I'm getting ready to add a complete solar set up with inverter... Will use this video as a reference.... Thanks
Thanks for watching I appreciate that. Check out some of my newer videos. I recently just added 1200 watts of solar and redid the batteries and everything
Thanks for watching. I’ve since upgraded to a Victron multiplus and used different wiring. But how do you mean? The romex wire is used all throughout the rig for AC electrical. What would you propose
Chris, Great video. I just happen to own a 2014 BigHorn which is very similar to yours. The install would be the same. What is the importance of every other breaker? And I missed the re- wiring of the breakers and isolating the others when inverter/ shore power breakers are flipped. Do you install a separate bus bar?
In this type of 50 amp panel, 1 leg of power feeds every other breaker and the other leg of power feeds the others. So, when wiring an inverter to back feed a panel, you first have to ensure the main breaker is off and you are only going to provide power to half of the rig so that’s the every other breaker. Now, there are also 50 amp panels where the 50 amp main is in the center and that’s generally split left side is one leg of power and right leg is other. Let me know if that doesn’t answer your question. If you’re on Facebook you can reach out to me there for some more in depth conversation if needed.
Could you feed the battery thru a 2-throw switch, one to the inverter and the other to the converter? That would interlock the 2 modes so you could not do both. And with fewer mods. Are there products that do this automatically?
The most ideal situation here is to put this through an automatic transfer switch so we’re not having to flip the breakers for the mains. I’m not sure about doing a two throw switch for the inverter and converter but I’m sure someone can figure it out. Probably just over complicating it.
Great video, I can't wait to try this in my RV. I only had a couple of questions. 1. I only have a 30 Amp RV. Will I still only be able to connect every other breaker? 2. My inverter (1500 W) only has 110-120 plugs, it doesn't have shunts to connect wire to. Am I able to connect a plug to the Romex where it meets the inverter?
Hey Paul, thanks for watching. To answer your questions, number 1, A 30 amp RV is only one leg of power to begin with so it will power your entire panel. Obviously if you are not careful it will easily overload a 1500 watt inverter. That’s only 12.5 amps of power so a microwave will probably trip it. An AC will definitely trip it. A strong hair dryer will probably trip it. Just something to keep in mind. Number 2, yes you can just wire up the Romen to a plug and plug it in the inverter. There are plugs made just for this. Ensure proper wiring there. Let me know if you have further questions. Good luck.
I explain it in the video. Perhaps rewatch. The panel is setup with 2 breaker bars for 2 legs of power. Overt other breaker is on one set. So when I backfeed the panel to just 1 leg or 1 breaker, it only feeds every other. Some rv panels are split in the middle large 50 amp breaker in the middle is a dead giveaway. In that case every breaker on the left side is one leg and the right side is the other leg. So if you did this similar install it would feed just the half of the breakers on the side you fed it to. Make sense?
If it just has a regular plug I would just buy a 20 amp extension chord, plug it into the inverter and cut the other end off, strip the wires and wire as seen in this video.
In the first diagram you show the batteries wired in parallel. It looks like power would draw from the front battery first creating an imbalance. Shouldn’t the ground be connected to the 2nd battery and then to the first? Am I wrong in assuming this? Thanks
You are absolutely correct. Generally with 2 batteries it’s not a big deal. However if you see on my channel I have a battery upgrade video that came out a little over a month ago where Input 5 batteries in place (since the video I actually added 2 more so I now have 7) and they’re wired like you said. Main Positive on end and main negative on opposite.
Hi, is there a way to Isolate the Inverter and not make a mistake and blow dead your inverter? can you run an automatic transfer switch with just the shore power and the Inverter alone and leave your generator as it is? Thank you, Mario
@@WhyNotRV I think I saw that you had. There is an exterior AC receptical (I assume you have one) that's nice to have powered by the inverter in case you have to run a tool.
When you ran your wires into the breaker box I noticed you tucked the red wire away. I presume it's not needed so you dont actually need the four wire cable?
Hey Buck, Thanks for watching. That is correct, this setup is 120v which is 1 leg of of 120 HOT (black) 1 leg of Neutral (white) and the ground. The red wire is not needed in this setup.
Can you explain at the 8:20 mark how and what you are doing to rewire the breakers you want on the inverter? Then when connected to shore power or running the generator you turn off the inverter breaker and turn on the converter so it will charge the house batteries correct?
So I basically load leveled to ensure what I want available on the inverter is all on the same leg of power. 50 amp rv has 2 legs of power and an inverter like this (the way I wired it in to back feed) is only capable of running 1 of the 2 legs of power. Hope that makes sense for you. Yes, when on shore power or generator the inverter breaker is off, the main breaker and converter would be on.
@@WhyNotRV It does make sense, you are the first video that showed doing it that way, some of the others would run a extension cord out of the inverter then plug into the shore power connection. You still have to turn off the converter while using the inverter so that it doesn't create the loop. I have a super C that has a useless 400w inverter that only powers the front TV outlet. I want to power all the outlets in the coach. Not quite sure what to do with the original inverter, maybe just remove it or turn it off because when the gen is on or hooked to shore power that outlet is now live with the rest.
Hey Robert, thanks for watching. I did not have a transfer switch on this setup. I was the transfer switch lol. I ended up upgrading to the Victron Multiplus which is a transfer switch / ups unit unlike anything else. Im actually selling this inverter now. Subscribe to see that episode of the upgrade. It will be this upcoming sunday at 5. I also install a hardwired ems unit.
Hi I've watched this video a few times as I get ready to do my own solar/inverter install. I'd like to run the 10/2 similar to what you just did to your panel. Why is it it will only power every other breaker as you have it set up? Wouldn't it work to turn the main shore power off, turn the inverter breaker on and then just turn on the breakers that you want supplied without necessarily moving other wires around? Thanks, great informative videos by the way!
Hey Menditto Devon, thanks for watching. Good luck with your project. We have a Facebook group called Why Not RV. Come join and I can help you out further. The reason it only supplies to every other breaker is because my rig is 50 amp. Which is 2 individual legs of 120... so it only provides power to half the panel. Some 50 amp panels are setup where the 50 amp main breaker is in the middle so one leg is everything to the left and the other leg is everything to the right. My panel is one leg is every other breaker and the other leg is the other breakers. If that’s confusing you at all shoot me a message online I can try and help more.
@@WhyNotRV oooooohhhhh! I think I get it. So due to my RV being 30 amp I probably won't run into that same exact thing. I can have my main on one end and the inverter breaker on the other to switch bttn inverter power or the main most likely. Thanks I may have more questions. I'll follow on Facebook as well.
Great video! It's really helpful. I'm trying to accomplish something similar but am a total electrical noob. Maybe you can offer a bit of advice - I have a small travel trailer (jayco hummingbird 16FD) and recently installed a couple solar panels down to a 100aH Lifepo4 battery. Next project is installing the 2000watt renogy inverter. I want to hardwire it in and am back and forth between this method you used and just buying an automatic transfer switch. We never really plug in, except when preparing for a trip (always dry camping) so an ATS seems like a bit of a waste. What do you think? Also, how did you know what size fuse to use between the inverter and battery? 200amp fuse would be fine for 2000watt inverter? Thanks!!!
I HIGHLY recommend a transfer switch. Even a manual one that you select which power source to use is safer than nothing. I did end up blowing up my inverter due to having shore power and forgetting to turn off the breaker that the inverter fed. A “rotary cam” transfer switch is cheap and effective. For the fuse… remember, the fuse is to protect the wiring. It’s designed to blow to prevent the wiring from overheating and melting or causing a fire. So the fuse should match for the wire and load size. 2000 watt 12v is 166 amps. So a 200 amp fuse would be sufficient but ensure you have the right size wire for the length of the run.
So when you go to just Inverter power do you need to turn off all the breakers that are going to receive power or just the main/shore power (2) breakers?
I have a 2000w inverter with an automatic switch. I only need it for an Xbox and 2 TVs. Can't I just wire it to that circuit and it should automatically switch off when generator or shore power is connected? I was hoping I can just tee into the nearest outlet on that circuit?
Let me know what you find. I’d imagine it’ll need 120 going to it like my multiplus. It’ll pass through the voltage when not in use and invert when 120 is lost.
@@WhyNotRV Yes exactly. It has a 120 pass thru and a built in auto-switch. So it seems to me I could just cut the feed from the nearest outlet and put that in the inlet, then continue the outlet to that outlet.
Crazy I just ordered the exact same make and model to replace an old inverter in my RV. I have two solar panels and my coffee maker fried the inverter when we were boondocking. Now it looks like I can just pull the old one out and hook the new one up. But the wires that came with this inverter (the new one) are much thicker than the wires that are wired into the old inverter. Is this going to be a problem?
Off hand without further information. Yes, the wires are designed to carry the necessary amperage to and from the unit. If you have under sized wire you can quickly start a fire as the heat from the load can melt the insulation and cause a short. Shoot me a message on Facebook or through the website whynotrvusa.com for more detailed help with this if needed
Great video. I am looking to put an inverter in my small trailer for boon docking. Just want to charge camera batteries and watch some tv. What do you suggest for size. I am installing 2 regular batteries. Thank You
For a load that small I would definitely only put a max of 1000 watt. Depending on your TV and the charger if thats truly your only intention with it just check the wattage rating on both. I would bet they would even be under 500 depending on the size of the tv. I have a 500 watt inverter inside my tow truck just for charging laptops and what not in the truck if needed. you might be able to get away with that. Just remember if your load is (for example) 450 watts and you get a 500 watt inverter it will run what you need but it will work super hard all the time so Id still go with 1000watt so its not burning up all the time. My 2000 watt inverter on average as maybe 300-600 watts being used but it will run my girlfriends 1800 watt hair dryer but it makes it work super hard and I wouldn't do that for very long. Thanks for watching and subscribing! let me know if you have more questions. Im on facebook too and you can shoot a message through there if you wanted
Hey guill, with my battery bank now I can yes. This inverter from this video could run the fridge no problem. But my battery bank at that time wouldn’t support it. I run the fridge off propane anytime I’m not on full power. Save my batteries for my AC and everything else needed. Check out my recent video on the battery upgrade
When you add inline fuse at the input side of the inverter, please divide the rated power by 10. For example, add 200A fuse for 2000W inverter. When you add a circuit breaker at the output end of the inverter, please divide the rated power by 100, for example, add a 20A circuit breaker to the 2000W inverter
Nope definitely not having that issue. An outlet buzzing is more than likely an outlet going bad, or loose wiring. Id start by replacing that outlet just to be safe
Is it practical to wire a 30 amp outlet directly to the inverter and then connecting the main 30 amp cord from the RV to the inverter? Or possibly using a 30 amp adapter? haven’t seen a lot of people do this, so I’m wandering if there some sort of loss in efficiency in doing this?
Definitely no loss in efficiency (in terms of electricity) to my knowledge. I don’t see any reason you couldn’t do it that way. Just not very efficient as far as the process to hook it up each time you need it. Definitely many better options. But ya it would work.
Could a guy just drop in a sub panel and wire that to you breaker panel in your RV ? Then you could run all your breakers or am I thinking about this the wrong way
Hey, great idea. There’s several ways to get this done. You could instead Run a automatic transfer switch and bridge the 2 sides of the panel as nothing runs 240v. But you’d have to bridge it before the transfer switch between the inverter and transfer switch.
Yeah, the proper way to do this project is definitely to add either a manual or automatic transfer switch in line with main shore power. If you look through the channel you’ll see I’ve since upgraded quite a bit
You should never discharge an AGM battery more than 80% so technically you have 240 AH available. In reality about 200AH if you want them to last their rated 800 cycles holding an 80% charge. Doing the math on Lifepo4 today and from what I can tell the only advantage of AGM is using the acc starter function if your starter batt dies.
Hey like the video bud. I have mine wired up just like yours, but my battery monitor is showing a 30-34 amp draw with the inverter switched on. Any idea where I might be pulling a draw like that. I've got the inverter on a 30 amp breaker on the panel on one leg, it is providing power to microwave, outlets, and gfci. The converter, and A/C are on the other leg and the main breaker is off. 50 amp panel.
Hey Bradley, thanks for watching. 30 amps is extremely high, something somewhere either has to be drawing power or theres a problem with the shunt or something. I draw about 4-5 amps when everything is off. Those 4-5 amps are tiny led light indicators, radio, microwave clock, fridge 12 volt circuit etc.
@@WhyNotRV Thanks for responding, I think I've isolated it to the fridge. Turned the fridge off auto and onto gas and amperage drops to normal. Funny thing is when inverter is off and fridge is on auto, it doesnt pull that much amperage?
What are the batteries? Are they connected all in parallel? Have you done a proper charge cycle on them to ensure full capacity? How exactly do you have the wires connected to them? What gauge wire are you running to the inverter?
@@WhyNotRV I’m using them in my transport truck paralleled with 4 batteries, their all full charge and I’m testing the inverter with the truck running, the previous inverter was working fine, I’m using the stock cables that came with the inverter
Hove you tested voltage with a multimeter? If so and you are good there, I would contact the seller. They should get you a new one under warranty no issues
Nice job, several things came to mind though, most inverters will shut down when shore power is connected not worry about shorting tripping breaker, so why the breaker switch? Second why not run fridge on propane instead of AC ( inverter), less draw on batteries. Third have you looked into solar or do you have solar? My system (5th wheel) is 250 watts of solar 4 6volts golf cart batteries total amps of 480, 2000 watt inverter/charger, hard wired via breaker box +/-. No need for the breaker stuff. I'm sure I'm missing something on your install, most curious of why the break addition? Lastly good thing you are handy as the new trailers are junk, shameful what they have done, I've owned them all new old, my current fixer upper and keeper is a 2004 32 foot NUWA Discover America. I have to say the build is far superior than anything that comes out of the rv factories today. America is being ripped off, to bad there isn't laws as they have found a way to steal money from consumers.
Hey Timmy thanks for watching. So this particular inverter and the way I had it wired up doesn’t auto switch when AC connected. I have since upgraded and changed to a multiplus. Also 1200 watts of solar and now 966amp hours of lithium. Check out my newer videos on the channel.
In this case, if you watch the video closely, you can see that I kind of rearranged my circuit breakers because only half of them we’re going to be receiving a feed from the inverter. I made sure that the loads that I wanted on the inverter were to the circuit breakers.
@@WhyNotRV I saw how you rewired the circuit breakers. My question is how you are able to dictate which of those breakers are receiving the feed from the inverter. Do you have a split bar?
Did you watch the entire video? It’s every other breaker that’s on one leg. Some RVs are split in the middle and everything to one side of the center double pole breaker is on one leg. This setups panel the double pole is on the far left side and all breakers are to the right of it. Every other breaker is on one leg
Hi Great Video - Appears to be a good fit for what I want to do.. It appears you used 2/0 awg wire. They recommend 1/0 awg for 2000Watts. Is that true or will 2/0 awg work?
@@WhyNotRV Hi There. Got mine installed last night. (Not Tested yet) need the ground wire for my Renogy. I went with the same breaker as you did, however, I'm not finding how to size that breaker, I've seen conflicting notes on that.. I did install the 200amp. Can you help me understand that?
Hey Rene, Remember that the circuit breakers job is to protect the wiring. So first question is what gauge wire did you run to it? 12 is good for 20 amp 14 is good for 15 amp. Also what size inverter did you install?
Just finished installing on my Class C. Great instructions on connecting to the circuit breaker bus bars to distribute the 110V! My only problem, is that using a circuit tester on my outlets, I came u with an anomaly. The tester has two yellow lights and a red. Normally two yellow and no red means good. However my tester is showing two yellow AND red! There is no listed legend for all three lights to be lit! Any ideas? Thanks
Hey Brian, great question! If your wiring is all correct, I would just confirm with a multimeter that voltage is proper and call it a day. Depending on the inverter, ground and neutral may be bonded or may need ground to frame to be true. So I hope this helps.
@@WhyNotRV Hi. Thanks for the quick response. Update; I checked all the wiring and it was correct. I plugged a power strip into the inverter and it works fine. However, when I hook up the lead to the panel to feed the bus bar, the inverter instantly shuts off showing a fault. I checked the romex to the circuit box and the connector (my inverter only has standard outlets, no direct wire terminals) and the wiring is correct between the inverter and the panel. I can use a regular extension cord and things work fine. But as soon as I try to hook to the panel, it shuts down. Any suggestions?
@@WhyNotRV Hi. No, As I do this, I disconnect from shore power and insure that the "main" breaker is off. Also I only switch the receptacle breakers "on" and nothing else. It doesn't matter if the new breaker for the inverter feed is on or off. Does that help? Thanks
Hey Jason, yes it is. I sized the inverter based on my girlfriends hair dryer which is 1875 watts. Thats the largest load this will ever take. The battery recharge system is going to be an upcoming video, most likely 2 weeks from now.
This 2000W pure sine wave inverter is suitable for microwave less than 1000W, if your microwave is more than 1000W,please choose a bigger inverter,because microwave starting power is twice of its rated power
Does anyone have an inverter like the one installed here. If so, does the voltage from the outlet measure properly, or does it measure as reversed polarity?
@@WhyNotRV Did you ever test the plugs (not the hardwire output) I was troubleshooting and put in a simple outlet tester in the plugs on the inverter. It shows as the polarity reversed. The company says this is normal, but I have my doubts. BTW love the video followed your instructions and very useful
To be honest… I never checked the physical plugs on it. I would imagine they’re wired the same as the hardwire output. If it were me and it was truly reversed I would just simply rewire it and flip neutral and hot as that’s all reverse polarity is.
Hey Damian, thanks for watching. That’s definitely another option. If you look through my channel you’ll see I actually have since upgraded to a victron multiplus.
@@WhyNotRV i cant just hook up the inverter to its own inline fuse box and from there connect it to the main wires? Do I make sense? Thats what I thought about doing before I saw your video
There are tons of different ways to achieve what you’re looking to do. Depending on your setup, you can do that but keep in mind main shore power use as well. You can’t allow power to flow back to the inverter on the AC side from shore power. It’ll blow the inverter. You need a transfer switch of some sorts to allow shore power or inverter power but not both at once.
@@WhyNotRV nice info. I think I was thinking about doing what you did without the most important step which is why most importantly the way you did it. Thank you, makes sense now.
There may be a few other options. One being, using a pass through inverter such as what I have installed now, the Victron multiplus. There’s other cheaper options out there as well. If you look through my videos you’ll see the install of that and it’s capabilities.
@@WhyNotRV I have a 3000 watt renogy pure sine wave inverter and I have the wires but in my breaker box there isn’t any room to wire it cause the bus bar too small
You could wire it via a transfer switch. Basically you’ll take you main power in and go to a transfer switch then to the panel and the inverter would be on the other side of that transfer switch so you could change the incoming power option
Hey Paul, Great question. Here’s why, the stuff that’s on the other half of the breakers are all such energy hogs I wouldn’t want them draining the battery bank. Fireplace, living room AC, the converter, etc. I have since completely changed and redone my inverter, converter, batteries, added solar... I still have it only feeding half of the breakers but have considered and might test it running both sets.
We are old 76 and 71 newbies to RVing and purchased a used Thor ACE 30.2 two months ago and after reviewing many You Tube videos have decided to purchase a inverter and your video was so helpful in instructing on a install.....Thank you...
p.s.
Karen and I would love a shirt...XraLg...
That would be fun for us old seniors...
Thanks again for the great video.
Well thank you so much. Glad to hear I could help out. I have a Facebook group of you are on that. Also, check out my website to order shirts... whynotrvusa.com
SIR YOU ARE THE ONLY PERSON ON TH-cam THAT MADE SENSE OF THIS INSTALLATION THANK YOU PA
Hey Paul, thanks for watching. I greatly appreciate that. If you follow my channel you will shortly see a new video where I ended up upgrading to the Victron Multiplus but this inverter is for sale lol. I started my channel for that purpose, try to help people make learn more and make less mistakes while RVing. Hopefully in the most clear and concise manner possible.
You made it make sense, thanks
I'm tackling removing my Norcold 2118 refrigerator in my 2019 Montana, and putting in a Whirlpool residential fridge. I am going to go the inverter route, lithium batteries, and with an inverter that has an automatic transfer switch. Thank you for making a great video.
Thank you for watching! It’s a big project. You got ahead of yourself. Keep browsing through my channel. You’ll see tons of information that will continue to help you. Thank you again.
Hey, Chris. Thank you for the video out of all the videos. I've watched to install an inverter. Yours was by far. The best questions I have, Would be when to turn on and off your main power and your inverter. When towing and pulling up into a full hook up campsite. Definitely what you want to do. Any harm to a the inverter? Or a plug from your vehicle during towing. Nor would I want to short circuit. Anything in a full hook up again. Thank you for that video.
Great to hear!!! I appreciate the comment. You’ll want to turn the breaker coming from the inverter off before turning the breaker coming from shore power on and vice versa. The inverter can be powered down when not in use. It being on and powering the rig while towing is perfectly fine and safe so long as it’s installed properly. Hopefully that answers all of your questions. Thank you again!!!
I've been searching for a hardwired inverter install for days and I finally found your video. Everyone else seems to just plug their shore power plug into the inverter and that just feels temporary and cheap. Thank you so much for this video, it's exactly what I've been looking for.
Outstanding! I’m glad I could help
I would like to add one item of consideration; most RVs have a 12v power supply which charges the house batteries when connected to shore power. You'll want to add a relay to turn that off if you're powering the entire panel off of an inverter, otherwise you'll just be wasting power with the battery trying to charge itself.
Absolutely correct. I would just flip the breaker off when running the inverter. There’s hundreds of ways to automate that procedure
Or put in a Go Power Transfer Switch.
Man I gave up on TH-cam inverter install tutorials. I’ll be honest I wanted to skip over yours, but I’m glad I didn’t. Thanks for making sense of this all.
I appreciate that. Thank you
Same!
I'm in the process of installing a new lnverter/charger. This video shows the possibilities I had not considered. Thanks
Absolutely! Thanks for watching!!!
Best onverter onstall i have seen in searching. It is straight to tbe point, and addresses what is actualy needed. Greattttttt Jobbbbbbb !
Thank you! I appreciate it
Thank you! Of all the installation videos I’ve watched yours is the most explanatory. I recently bought a motorhome and the previous owner had installed a 3000 W inverter but; he installed two huge additional AGM batteries with the inverter, in one of the regular storage bays. This terrified me as the bay was almost ripped off its mountings due the the weight of the batteries. The bay being right in front of the rear wheels, was a death trap waiting to happen. My quandary was how I could integrate the new batteries with the existing ones, you answered that by showing what you did. Thanks.
That’s great to hear Todd!!! Thank you for the comment. Glad you were able to avoid disaster there!!!
This whole setup does in fact create a potentially very unsafe - maybe even deadly - situation. I felt that this needed an additional, separate comment besides the one I saw posted a year ago. That other responder posted in ALL CAPS so I think many people might not have taken his comment seriously, and he also did not really explain WHY it is so dangerous.
The inverter connection to the camper's electrical system WILL work as shown, but it's safety (both for personal injury as well as equipment damage) is COMPLETELY DEPENDENT on the operator properly setting both the Main breaker and the Inverter breaker the right way, EVERY time. In order for the inverter to not suffer catastrophic damage, and to prevent the possible situation where the AC supply cord to the RV - with its fully exposed terminals - comes into contact with a person's skin causing instant electrocution, the operator must be certain to NEVER leave the Main breaker turned on at the same time as the Inverter and its breaker are On. With both of them (admittedly, accidentally) left On at the same time, the 110V from the inverter will appear on the exposed prongs of the RVs connecting cord, or at least on the (also) exposed terminals of the plug in the outside wall of the RV even if no cord is plugged into it. That could easily be touched by a person and cause electrocution. On the less serious side, the Shore/Mains power (if still connected and available) could connect directly to the Inverter's output terminals and most likely cause instant destruction to the Inverter, and possibly even start a fire.
Yes, you can stress all that you want that the operator should never turn on both switches at the same time (and I certainly did not see that stressed very strongly in this video, either) but when serious equipment damage and ESPECIALLY a life--threatening situation is a possible result, one should never depend on the infallibility of a human operator when such a mistake could so easily be made and the safe/proper method is so easily within reach. That method is, of course, to use a transfer switch, which would ensure that no mistake of the operator could ever create the potentially catastrophic situation described above.
I saw that the creator of this video seems to have offered a correct method in what I guess is a separate video (I did not watch it but I assume he later showed the proper method using a transfer switch), but I agree with the other poster who recommended that this particular video be taken down.
I hope I have made my case clear.
Thank you for the well written comment. I have so we changed to a whole different setup and have commented on here multiple times to use either an automatic transfer switch or manual transfer switch for safety and reliability.
Thank you for bringing this up...That makes sense..Thanks
All one needs to do here is to add an interlocker. Problem solved.
There is also an inverter that I bought in Amazon that instead of outlets has input and output of the Romex wire and an internal bypass. Basically you splice the Romex wire that feeds the outlets (usually three receptacles) that we need to run with the inverter (TV/one outside and another in the kitchen). That circuit is typically a 15amp breaker in the panel power box. It is interrupted with the inverter but the receptacles always work as they should getting power from the panel when there is shoreline power, it senses shore line current in the Romex coming from the panel box so it bypasses and feeds the outlets in the output. Yet, when that electricity stop (unplugged the shoreline) then it switches seamless (in milliseconds) and feeds the output Romex from the battery. This way you never make a mistake, because if you forget one of the steps you do now it can get ugly back feeding the power box, and DC is fast and can fry cables and circuits in a second, not to mention the converter is being fed power and will loop back 12V to the batteries so it will send them to an early grave.
Here is the one I bought and I love it, never have to even remember and I keep it on forever. I placed a battery disconnect next to it for those times it is in storage but you can leave it on otherwise. There are other fancy ones but this one was plenty for me. Others even have a charger where you can also plug the solar panels and it will charge batteries from shoreline and solar so you can discard the converter and the controller as well, but I already had those, so I kept it simple with this one. Besides, I don't want to rely in only one piece of equipment for everything, not all eggs in one basket, so is best that if one fails we have two other things working.
www.amazon.com/dp/B074CHSXBD/?coliid=I3HMS0WQMOMH8K&colid=W8Y4O0WL8YQW&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
AIMS Power PWRIX120012SUL Pure Sine Inverter with Transfer Switch, 1200W Continuous Power, 2400W Surge Peak Power, Intelligent Cooling Fan, Less Than 20msec Transfer Time
Absolutely the better way to go. I have since upgraded this old rig to a multiplus and now my new rig with dual 5kva Quattro inverters. Definitely the best situation
Great video and you didn’t complicate it with extra stuff we don’t need to know yet. Thank you
Thanks Richard. Glad you got some value out of it.
Thanks for the thorough explanation AND detailed demonstration. Many other TH-camrs describe the task, and then don't have video showing all the steps and connections (they either speed up the playback speed, omit segments, or don't have the camera positioned properly for a direct view); Yours walks through everything, which includes the circuit breaker install/wiring AND battery wiring connections. I have an inverter and hope to bring it inline, but also a standalone lithium power supply bank with controlller that I also plan to incorporate, either via the 30 amp shoreline power adapter route, or maybe via the fuse panel/circuit breaker approach you demonstrated. There are replacement manual blockout/switch paired breakers to disable one input source (e.g., shoreline) and enabling another (e.g., inverter) that I had installed on my residence for backup external electric generator, I might look into that option for safety's sake.
That’s great to hear!!!! I really appreciate it. Hope your project goes good and smooth. Let me know if you have any questions!!!
Wow that was an awesome install. I didn't want to mess with the panel so I just added a transfer switch for the Converter and added two outlets. One for the inverter and one for the converter..I take the shore cable and plug it in and I'm live!.
Thanks for watching. Ya that’s actually a great idea there. I might RE-look at what I got going on....
@@WhyNotRV it did a bunch of research and it made sense to me at the time.
I do have to swap the plug when I want to use the Generator but with the inverter my kids can charge mobile devices and watch TV when parked.
I have a quick video on my channel if you want to check it out.
Awesome, Ya Ill check it out
It's been a while since the last comment. Hopefully, you still respond to questions. I used your approach and was pretty excited when all seemed to work. I connected the line wire from Renology 2000W inverter to 20 AMP breaker to back-feed panel (12 awg romex), neutral to neutral bus bar in panel, and ground to ground bus bar in panel. In my testing, it all seemed to work!! Using the inverter, all the expected 120V circuits worked as expected! Then, it was time to charge the battery from shore power. I turned off the breaker for inverter, turned on breaker for main power and connected to shore power. This instantly popped the shore-power breaker in the garage. I completely removed the inverter's breaker from the RV's panel and tested again. Shore power still popped. Even with the RV's main power breaker OFF, the shore-power breaker still popped. Only after I removed the inverter's ground and neutral wires from the panel's respective bus-bars did the shore-power breaker no longer pop. An earlier comment said something like this, "If you connect the inverter to the common neutral this gives an additional path to ground that will trip ground faults when you plug your camper in..." I don't understand this, but I think this is what is happening. What are my options?
I’m not sure what the problem is when this happens. Apparently it’s happened to other people as well obviously. It definitely seems to be a way certain RVs are wired or certain shore power maybe. Have you tried it at a different campground with different shore power? Or has the other person with the same issue commented his work around or anything?
@@WhyNotRV Thanks for the quick reply. I talked to an electrician friend and found the following link samlexamerica.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/13009-0614_NeutraltoGroundSwitchinginRVandMarineApplications.pdf. Both explain that there can only be one point in the system in which neutral is bonded to the ground. Otherwise, due to wire impedance, there can be a slight voltage difference on the neutral wire. My Renology inverter states that neutral and ground are bonded inside it. Neutral and ground are bonded in the panel as well. A small voltage difference is detected by a GFCI and trips the GFCI. My breaker in the garage is indeed a GFCI breaker. It was not tripping due to overload, rather due to this small voltage difference between neutral and ground. Bottom line, this set-up won't work for me with my Renology inverter. Note that ALL campground shore power is supposed to be GFCI protected. I'm backing it out. Still, your solution was pretty ingenious, and I appreciate all the hard work to put the video together.
You could put it all through a transfer switch that separates the neutrals
You made that look really easy. Thank you for the wiring diagram. I have a truck camper that I am considering installing an inverter into. This video was very helpful. Thank you.
Thank you. I appreciate it!!!
I am in the middle of a similar project and you gave me an idea to use a breaker in the power panel for the inverter. That is a much easier than wiring up a separate switch.
Best thing to do is a transfer switch. You have to be very careful when doing it this way as if you leave that breaker in and connect to shore power you’ll fry the inverter
@@WhyNotRV thanks. I will install one but in the meantime i will unplug the ac output and swich off the DC input when i am not using it. 95% of the time we will get AC from a site power pole and only use it when stopped for rest breaks.
Thank you so much , upgrading my rig this week
Happy to be able to help
Dude, you are very smart and this is very impressive. Working on my own inverter project, so thanks a lot
Thanks for watching. There are definitely many ways to accomplish this similar goal. Different situations call for different solutions
excellent video, i would like to do the same on my much smaller travel trailer 30 foot jayco.
Thank you. I appreciated it. Good luck with your project
Awesome and impressive build-out, this is a keeper for future reference
Thanks, I will be posting next weeks video Sunday at noon which is how to recharge my house batteries with a DC-DC battery charger
And be sure to subscribe so you don’t miss out!
You make everything look so easy ! Thank you, I’m learning a lot in your channel.
Thanks Perry. I appreciate it!!!
Damn i felt dumb halfway lol
nice install on the inverter
Thank you!
I have a keystone hideout with solar on the roof (solar flex 200) and a 15amp charge controller. The trailer has 7 outlets that can be wired for use with solar with an inverter. There is an "inverter loop wire" in the pass through storage that I can connect to an inverter to power the outlets. However, my issue is that since the wire is looped, it will have 2 ends when cut. I cannot find any information online as to where I connect the ends of the wire. I know one goes into the ac output of the inverter but that still leaves one end of the looped wire.
Depending on the type of inverter you get, what you’d do is have the side that comes from the breaker go to AC in on the inverter and the side that goes to the outlets to as out.
@@WhyNotRV its the renogy 2000w pure sine wave Inverter. It only seems to have 3 plug ac out ports and 1 spit for an AC terminal outlet. Nothing else.
So what you would need to do it properly is a transfer switch. You can either do an automatic one and spend some money or do a manual one. But you can have essentially the power comes in from shore into the transfer switch and out is to those plugs then the inverter gets wired into the transfer switch at the second power in. So when you lose your power it will switch to inverter power.
@@WhyNotRV that makes sense to me. However, where the wiring is, is not diagramming well by keystone. Which is funny to say the least. And I would have to essentially destroy the underside of the camper to find it. But, I guess that's how it is. Thank you for your help!
You should just have to take the loop out of the inverter prep, test which side is hot from the main panel, and go from there…
This is exactly what I was looking for. Excellent job! Thanks!
Absolutely!!! Thank you!!!
Oh I should have just watched the whole video great job with your video it finally makes sense!!
All good. Thank you for watching.
Awsome video. Thank you for getting to the point. Its exactly what I needed to know. Cheers
Thanks Keith. And thanks for watching!!!
Very informative video. Next you should tackle solar panels installation. Thanks for your tutorial
Hey James, thanks for watching. I appreciate that. Solar is on my list but with my current rig I’m thinking of doing a portable / deployable version. If you go to my channel you’ll see I actually upgraded to the Victron multiplus recently. Love it. Thanks again
Just found this - Awesome video I cant tell if you ran a 10 gauge or a 12 gauge. 12 gauge wire only rated for 20 amps if it’s 12 You should replace that 30 amp breaker with a 20 amp for consistency.Great vid thanks for posting.
Hey Doug, Thanks for watching. Its 10/2 wire for 30 amp, Thank you for the note.
Great job on your video exactly what I was looking for
Thank you, I appreciate it
if you connect the inverter to the common neutral this gives an additional path to ground that will trip ground faults when you plug your camper in. it's far better to connect an automatic transfer switch. this also makes it impossible to backfeed the inverter
This is exactly true and I couldn’t agree more. A transfer switch is the better method for sure
Exactly what I’m planning to do to our 29’ travel trailer. So two 100 amp hour batteries (in parallel) will support/be a good match for a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter? Basically want to run what your selected when we’re boondocking.
The battery bank really doesn’t reflect the inverter size or vice versa. It depends on how long you need things to run for and what draw they have.
Good job, I wish I could do that to my little travel trailer. I have dual batteries and solar on the roof it would be nice to have a inverter to power everything from the batteries.
Thanks Earl!
Nice walk through. Curious why you didnt wire in a transfer switch? This would allow you two benefits. Never worry about the converter charging the battery and never worry about back feeding the inverter at all.
This is an older install. I have newer videos with inverters having transfer switch built in as well as others including a transfer switch. Easy to add and definitely the better way. Thank you for watching!!!
@@WhyNotRV Thanks for the detailed content!
I appreciate it
Great video, easy to follow and understand. I just wish you had mounted the inverter straight, LOL.
RICK TARA lol it’s perfectly straight. The angle of the camera throws it way off though. Thanks for watching. Be sure to subscribe so you don’t miss anything
Ha ha, I figured, sorry
Hey Buddy - good vid... Question? Does the 2000 Watt Invertor have enough power to run the AC ???
It has enough power to run the AC but not start it, unless you install a micro-air easy start. Look through my channel and you’ll see my video on installing that.
Thank you for the tutorial, make it look to simple. But I get lost on the circuit breaker, is there a simple way? I can take a photo of mine and send it to you to see if can help me, please.
Hey Sergio. Ya just shoot me a message on Facebook. Join our Facebook group and you can post and ask in there as well.
Great video very helpful.
Thank you!!!
Great video, thanks for spending the time putting it together.
Absolutely Robert. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
Great video. Could you have wired directly to the main incoming breaker and put a disconnect switch going to the inverter. I assume that being that its not connected externally by a power source and you turn the inverter switch on you can then power all your breakers? Also, do you feel that the 2000 watt inverter was big enough. I have a much smaller RV and less circuits than you and now I'm going to put in a 2000 watt vs 3000 watt....Again, Great video.Thank you
Hey Tim, thanks for the comment. To do it right with the main breaker there should be a transfer switch (automatic or manual). With my setup being a 50 amp panel it has 2 legs to it so this setup was only feeding 1 leg but I balanced my loads to power everything I wanted. The 2000 watt was fine for the initial needs. Now that I run my ac through my inverter I upgraded to a Victron multiplus 3000 but the 2000 was plenty for the microwave, which was the largest draw.
@@WhyNotRV Thanks, I may do the 3000 also because i have the microwave and a/c also....Not a big difference with cost
There you go!
Awesome video it answers alot questions but I don't get how you wired your breaker box fuses to only run on the inverter if you can show me that I would be grateful because I have been on TH-cam for a long time trying to find the right video thank you I want to do my inverter just like your so please help me
RE watch the video 3-4 times. It shows everything you need to know.
can you add the wiring diagram. i love your setup. this is new to me and have been watching lots of videos on this. you is the first that is very basic but it dowes exactly what i want to do. also parts list would be great .
Hey Mark, Thanks for watching. Reach out to me on facebook and I can send you some more information.
Kind of new to Facebook. How do I find you on Facebook
is there any trick to charge wr battery . not to empty while using inverter and battery only ??
Your battery is what is supplying voltage to the inverter to produce power. In order to charge your batteries, you either need to be plugged into shore, Power for a regular charging or you can do solar that can recharge your batteries.
@@WhyNotRV thats the way i think .. thanx
Anytime, thanks for watching!
I just plug my RV 30 amp into inverter but I have to flip the breaker to the converter off so it don't try and charge batteries at same time.
Correct, if you don’t have that converter off it’ll create a power loop and slowly drain the batteries.
Do you have a video of how to install the transfer switch?
I have a video where I installed a generator into my new airstream. And installed an automatic transfer switch. Check out that video
Why not rv, thanks for this video. Great idea and less complicated than others I've watched. I followed your links and bought all the components you listed. In a motorhome, are there any concerns with running the inverter while underway, and while it's batteries are being charged by the engine alternator? Also, is the circuit breaker really needed when the inverter already has overload protection? Thanks!
Hey Tommy thanks for watching. A circuit break not only protects the wire and the battery but also gives you an easy way to cut the power to the inverter so I definitely recommend it but it technically doesn’t need it. To me there are no concerns with it running while underway. Many new RVs have inverters already installed that run the residential fridges 24/7 so that should be perfectly fine.
Nice work. Thank you!
Thanks John!
Great content !...just subscribe and booked mark this as I'm getting ready to add a complete solar set up with inverter... Will use this video as a reference.... Thanks
Thanks for watching I appreciate that. Check out some of my newer videos. I recently just added 1200 watts of solar and redid the batteries and everything
Nice work but you are using house ac wire that is like to give you problems due to vibration
Thanks for watching. I’ve since upgraded to a Victron multiplus and used different wiring. But how do you mean? The romex wire is used all throughout the rig for AC electrical. What would you propose
Good series Dude
I appreciate it.
Chris,
Great video.
I just happen to own a 2014 BigHorn which is very similar to yours. The install would be the same.
What is the importance of every other breaker? And I missed the re- wiring of the breakers and isolating the others when inverter/ shore power breakers are flipped.
Do you install a separate bus bar?
In this type of 50 amp panel, 1 leg of power feeds every other breaker and the other leg of power feeds the others. So, when wiring an inverter to back feed a panel, you first have to ensure the main breaker is off and you are only going to provide power to half of the rig so that’s the every other breaker. Now, there are also 50 amp panels where the 50 amp main is in the center and that’s generally split left side is one leg of power and right leg is other. Let me know if that doesn’t answer your question. If you’re on Facebook you can reach out to me there for some more in depth conversation if needed.
@@WhyNotRV is this typical? Will a normal 30 amp panel only feed every other if we back-feed the way you're doing?
Could you feed the battery thru a 2-throw switch, one to the inverter and the other to the converter? That would interlock the 2 modes so you could not do both. And with fewer mods. Are there products that do this automatically?
The most ideal situation here is to put this through an automatic transfer switch so we’re not having to flip the breakers for the mains. I’m not sure about doing a two throw switch for the inverter and converter but I’m sure someone can figure it out. Probably just over complicating it.
Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you !!!
Great video, I can't wait to try this in my RV. I only had a couple of questions.
1. I only have a 30 Amp RV. Will I still only be able to connect every other breaker?
2. My inverter (1500 W) only has 110-120 plugs, it doesn't have shunts to connect wire to. Am I able to connect a plug to the Romex where it meets the inverter?
Hey Paul, thanks for watching. To answer your questions, number 1, A 30 amp RV is only one leg of power to begin with so it will power your entire panel. Obviously if you are not careful it will easily overload a 1500 watt inverter. That’s only 12.5 amps of power so a microwave will probably trip it. An AC will definitely trip it. A strong hair dryer will probably trip it. Just something to keep in mind. Number 2, yes you can just wire up the Romen to a plug and plug it in the inverter. There are plugs made just for this. Ensure proper wiring there. Let me know if you have further questions. Good luck.
@@WhyNotRV That's great info, thank you very much. I'm going to look in to upgrading to a 2000 W inverter.
Awesome. Good luck with the project.
Curious how only every other breaker is supplied by the inverter? Awesome video tho. Thanks
I explain it in the video. Perhaps rewatch. The panel is setup with 2 breaker bars for 2 legs of power. Overt other breaker is on one set. So when I backfeed the panel to just 1 leg or 1 breaker, it only feeds every other. Some rv panels are split in the middle large 50 amp breaker in the middle is a dead giveaway. In that case every breaker on the left side is one leg and the right side is the other leg. So if you did this similar install it would feed just the half of the breakers on the side you fed it to. Make sense?
@@WhyNotRV yes. Thanks again
Absolutely!
Thanks for the video.
Thank you, be sure to subscribe so you don't miss anything.
How would recommend hard-wiring an inverter that doesn't have the posts like yours? One with just outlets?
If it just has a regular plug I would just buy a 20 amp extension chord, plug it into the inverter and cut the other end off, strip the wires and wire as seen in this video.
In the first diagram you show the batteries wired in parallel. It looks like power would draw from the front battery first creating an imbalance. Shouldn’t the ground be connected to the 2nd battery and then to the first? Am I wrong in assuming this? Thanks
You are absolutely correct. Generally with 2 batteries it’s not a big deal. However if you see on my channel I have a battery upgrade video that came out a little over a month ago where Input 5 batteries in place (since the video I actually added 2 more so I now have 7) and they’re wired like you said. Main Positive on end and main negative on opposite.
Hi, is there a way to Isolate the Inverter and not make a mistake and blow dead your inverter? can you run an automatic transfer switch with just the shore power and the Inverter alone and leave your generator as it is? Thank you, Mario
Yes. You can add an automatic transfer switch or a manual transfer switch to really isolate.
Is there a video of the transfer switch being installed?
Not on this RV
Did you put the exterior receptical on the inverter? It's useful.
Hey, thank you for watching. Im not sure exactly what you are asking.
@@WhyNotRV I think I saw that you had. There is an exterior AC receptical (I assume you have one) that's nice to have powered by the inverter in case you have to run a tool.
Oh ok, nope.... I didn’t add any receptacles. They were already there.
When you ran your wires into the breaker box I noticed you tucked the red wire away. I presume it's not needed so you dont actually need the four wire cable?
Hey Buck, Thanks for watching. That is correct, this setup is 120v which is 1 leg of of 120 HOT (black) 1 leg of Neutral (white) and the ground. The red wire is not needed in this setup.
Can you explain at the 8:20 mark how and what you are doing to rewire the breakers you want on the inverter? Then when connected to shore power or running the generator you turn off the inverter breaker and turn on the converter so it will charge the house batteries correct?
So I basically load leveled to ensure what I want available on the inverter is all on the same leg of power. 50 amp rv has 2 legs of power and an inverter like this (the way I wired it in to back feed) is only capable of running 1 of the 2 legs of power. Hope that makes sense for you. Yes, when on shore power or generator the inverter breaker is off, the main breaker and converter would be on.
@@WhyNotRV It does make sense, you are the first video that showed doing it that way, some of the others would run a extension cord out of the inverter then plug into the shore power connection. You still have to turn off the converter while using the inverter so that it doesn't create the loop. I have a super C that has a useless 400w inverter that only powers the front TV outlet. I want to power all the outlets in the coach. Not quite sure what to do with the original inverter, maybe just remove it or turn it off because when the gen is on or hooked to shore power that outlet is now live with the rest.
Yeah, I would personally just delete and get rid of the old stock inverter. Extra weight that’s not needed.
Great video!! What automatic transfer switch to you have? Any plans to put that into a video
Hey Robert, thanks for watching. I did not have a transfer switch on this setup. I was the transfer switch lol. I ended up upgrading to the Victron Multiplus which is a transfer switch / ups unit unlike anything else. Im actually selling this inverter now. Subscribe to see that episode of the upgrade. It will be this upcoming sunday at 5. I also install a hardwired ems unit.
@@WhyNotRV still for sale ?
@@WhyNotRV still for sale ?
Hi I've watched this video a few times as I get ready to do my own solar/inverter install. I'd like to run the 10/2 similar to what you just did to your panel. Why is it it will only power every other breaker as you have it set up? Wouldn't it work to turn the main shore power off, turn the inverter breaker on and then just turn on the breakers that you want supplied without necessarily moving other wires around? Thanks, great informative videos by the way!
Hey Menditto Devon, thanks for watching. Good luck with your project. We have a Facebook group called Why Not RV. Come join and I can help you out further. The reason it only supplies to every other breaker is because my rig is 50 amp. Which is 2 individual legs of 120... so it only provides power to half the panel. Some 50 amp panels are setup where the 50 amp main breaker is in the middle so one leg is everything to the left and the other leg is everything to the right. My panel is one leg is every other breaker and the other leg is the other breakers. If that’s confusing you at all shoot me a message online I can try and help more.
@@WhyNotRV oooooohhhhh! I think I get it. So due to my RV being 30 amp I probably won't run into that same exact thing. I can have my main on one end and the inverter breaker on the other to switch bttn inverter power or the main most likely. Thanks I may have more questions. I'll follow on Facebook as well.
Correct. 30 amp is just one leg of power so it’ll feed everything
Great video! It's really helpful. I'm trying to accomplish something similar but am a total electrical noob. Maybe you can offer a bit of advice - I have a small travel trailer (jayco hummingbird 16FD) and recently installed a couple solar panels down to a 100aH Lifepo4 battery. Next project is installing the 2000watt renogy inverter. I want to hardwire it in and am back and forth between this method you used and just buying an automatic transfer switch. We never really plug in, except when preparing for a trip (always dry camping) so an ATS seems like a bit of a waste. What do you think? Also, how did you know what size fuse to use between the inverter and battery? 200amp fuse would be fine for 2000watt inverter? Thanks!!!
I HIGHLY recommend a transfer switch. Even a manual one that you select which power source to use is safer than nothing. I did end up blowing up my inverter due to having shore power and forgetting to turn off the breaker that the inverter fed. A “rotary cam” transfer switch is cheap and effective. For the fuse… remember, the fuse is to protect the wiring. It’s designed to blow to prevent the wiring from overheating and melting or causing a fire. So the fuse should match for the wire and load size. 2000 watt 12v is 166 amps. So a 200 amp fuse would be sufficient but ensure you have the right size wire for the length of the run.
@@WhyNotRV Awesome. Thanks very much!
Anytime!!!
@@WhyNotRV one other question- what type/size wire would you recommend going from the inverter to the transfer switch?
Safest bet is 12/2 minimum. Preferably 10/2
So when you go to just Inverter power do you need to turn off all the breakers that are going to receive power or just the main/shore power (2) breakers?
Lol. Thanks for watching.
I like your puppy!
Aww. I appreciate it. Unfortunately he passed away since this but I like to think he lives forever due to the videos with him in them.
I have a 2000w inverter with an automatic switch. I only need it for an Xbox and 2 TVs. Can't I just wire it to that circuit and it should automatically switch off when generator or shore power is connected? I was hoping I can just tee into the nearest outlet on that circuit?
It’s hard to know without knowing the specific inverter or how it’s auto switch works.
@@WhyNotRV I'm hoping the manual clarifies it for me. It's an AIMS 2000w with automatic switch. It should arrive soon.
@@WhyNotRV The model number is PWRIX200012SUL just FYI
Let me know what you find. I’d imagine it’ll need 120 going to it like my multiplus. It’ll pass through the voltage when not in use and invert when 120 is lost.
@@WhyNotRV Yes exactly. It has a 120 pass thru and a built in auto-switch. So it seems to me I could just cut the feed from the nearest outlet and put that in the inlet, then continue the outlet to that outlet.
Crazy I just ordered the exact same make and model to replace an old inverter in my RV. I have two solar panels and my coffee maker fried the inverter when we were boondocking. Now it looks like I can just pull the old one out and hook the new one up. But the wires that came with this inverter (the new one) are much thicker than the wires that are wired into the old inverter. Is this going to be a problem?
Off hand without further information. Yes, the wires are designed to carry the necessary amperage to and from the unit. If you have under sized wire you can quickly start a fire as the heat from the load can melt the insulation and cause a short. Shoot me a message on Facebook or through the website whynotrvusa.com for more detailed help with this if needed
@@WhyNotRV thanks man I appreciate that. I'll hit you up if I have a question.
Sounds good. No problem
Great video. I am looking to put an inverter in my small trailer for boon docking. Just want to charge camera batteries and watch some tv. What do you suggest for size. I am installing 2 regular batteries. Thank You
For a load that small I would definitely only put a max of 1000 watt. Depending on your TV and the charger if thats truly your only intention with it just check the wattage rating on both. I would bet they would even be under 500 depending on the size of the tv. I have a 500 watt inverter inside my tow truck just for charging laptops and what not in the truck if needed. you might be able to get away with that. Just remember if your load is (for example) 450 watts and you get a 500 watt inverter it will run what you need but it will work super hard all the time so Id still go with 1000watt so its not burning up all the time. My 2000 watt inverter on average as maybe 300-600 watts being used but it will run my girlfriends 1800 watt hair dryer but it makes it work super hard and I wouldn't do that for very long. Thanks for watching and subscribing! let me know if you have more questions. Im on facebook too and you can shoot a message through there if you wanted
Is that a inverter/charger also...?
No this one was just an inverter. I’ve since upgraded to a multiplus
Pretty cool good teaching I want a t-shirt
Thank you Pedro. Head over to WhyNotRVusa.com to order a shirt.
can you run your rv fridge allday?
Hey guill, with my battery bank now I can yes. This inverter from this video could run the fridge no problem. But my battery bank at that time wouldn’t support it. I run the fridge off propane anytime I’m not on full power. Save my batteries for my AC and everything else needed. Check out my recent video on the battery upgrade
How did you determine what size circuit breaker was needed?
I use watts law to determine pretty much everything. The circuit breaker’s purpose is to protect the wire itself from burning up or melting.
When you add inline fuse at the input side of the inverter, please divide the rated power by 10. For example, add 200A fuse for 2000W inverter.
When you add a circuit breaker at the output end of the inverter, please divide the rated power by 100, for example, add a 20A circuit breaker to the 2000W inverter
I installed my inverter. When I use the inverter I have a outlet that makes a buzzing noise are you having the same issue? Or is this normal?
Nope definitely not having that issue. An outlet buzzing is more than likely an outlet going bad, or loose wiring. Id start by replacing that outlet just to be safe
If the outlet is not making that same noise when on shore power but only on the inverter, I’d check all wiring and tighten appropriately.
Are those AGM's 6volt or 12volt? Currently, I have two 6 volt lead acid batteries that need replaced asap.
These were 12v. If you’re looking to upgrade I have a few videos on the best lithium options that I have personally ised
Is it practical to wire a 30 amp outlet directly to the inverter and then connecting the main 30 amp cord from the RV to the inverter? Or possibly using a 30 amp adapter? haven’t seen a lot of people do this, so I’m wandering if there some sort of loss in efficiency in doing this?
Definitely no loss in efficiency (in terms of electricity) to my knowledge. I don’t see any reason you couldn’t do it that way. Just not very efficient as far as the process to hook it up each time you need it. Definitely many better options. But ya it would work.
Could a guy just drop in a sub panel and wire that to you breaker panel in your RV ? Then you could run all your breakers or am I thinking about this the wrong way
Hey, great idea. There’s several ways to get this done. You could instead Run a automatic transfer switch and bridge the 2 sides of the panel as nothing runs 240v. But you’d have to bridge it before the transfer switch between the inverter and transfer switch.
When you turn off your converter do you lose access to the 12v lights?
No. The entire 12v system begins pulling from the batteries
they are called tandem breakers and I do not like seeing a breaker box full of tandems
Yeah, the proper way to do this project is definitely to add either a manual or automatic transfer switch in line with main shore power. If you look through the channel you’ll see I’ve since upgraded quite a bit
You should never discharge an AGM battery more than 80% so technically you have 240 AH available. In reality about 200AH if you want them to last their rated 800 cycles holding an 80% charge. Doing the math on Lifepo4 today and from what I can tell the only advantage of AGM is using the acc starter function if your starter batt dies.
I have long switched to lithium and build my own batteries. Yes agm are better than lead acid but nothing compares to lithium
@@WhyNotRV After I typed it realized the video was four years old. Glad youre still kickin ;)
All good. I appreciate it.
Hey like the video bud. I have mine wired up just like yours, but my battery monitor is showing a 30-34 amp draw with the inverter switched on. Any idea where I might be pulling a draw like that. I've got the inverter on a 30 amp breaker on the panel on one leg, it is providing power to microwave, outlets, and gfci. The converter, and A/C are on the other leg and the main breaker is off. 50 amp panel.
Hey Bradley, thanks for watching. 30 amps is extremely high, something somewhere either has to be drawing power or theres a problem with the shunt or something. I draw about 4-5 amps when everything is off. Those 4-5 amps are tiny led light indicators, radio, microwave clock, fridge 12 volt circuit etc.
@@WhyNotRV Thanks for responding, I think I've isolated it to the fridge. Turned the fridge off auto and onto gas and amperage drops to normal. Funny thing is when inverter is off and fridge is on auto, it doesnt pull that much amperage?
Bradley Junker awesome
What if you don't have free slot for a new circuit breaker?
You should do it to a transfer switch. Manual is cheaper. But automatic is …. Automatic lol
I have the same inverter when hooked up it says low voltage… I’m running 4 batteries connected to each other why do u think it says this
What are the batteries? Are they connected all in parallel? Have you done a proper charge cycle on them to ensure full capacity? How exactly do you have the wires connected to them? What gauge wire are you running to the inverter?
@@WhyNotRV I’m using them in my transport truck paralleled with 4 batteries, their all full charge and I’m testing the inverter with the truck running, the previous inverter was working fine, I’m using the stock cables that came with the inverter
Hove you tested voltage with a multimeter? If so and you are good there, I would contact the seller. They should get you a new one under warranty no issues
@@WhyNotRV no I have not I will try swapping with another battery, great setup on your end though, thank you
Sounds good. Let me know the result. Good luck. Thank you!
Nice job, several things came to mind though, most inverters will shut down when shore power is connected not worry about shorting tripping breaker, so why the breaker switch? Second why not run fridge on propane instead of AC ( inverter), less draw on batteries. Third have you looked into solar or do you have solar? My system (5th wheel) is 250 watts of solar 4 6volts golf cart batteries total amps of 480, 2000 watt inverter/charger, hard wired via breaker box +/-. No need for the breaker stuff. I'm sure I'm missing something on your install, most curious of why the break addition? Lastly good thing you are handy as the new trailers are junk, shameful what they have done, I've owned them all new old, my current fixer upper and keeper is a 2004 32 foot NUWA Discover America. I have to say the build is far superior than anything that comes out of the rv factories today. America is being ripped off, to bad there isn't laws as they have found a way to steal money from consumers.
Hey Timmy thanks for watching. So this particular inverter and the way I had it wired up doesn’t auto switch when AC connected. I have since upgraded and changed to a multiplus. Also 1200 watts of solar and now 966amp hours of lithium. Check out my newer videos on the channel.
Where did you source your 10/2 wire and breaker from?
Hey, thanks for watching. I went to Home Depot for the breaker. Bought wire on amazon. Link is in The description
What about the flat 4 strand wire?
I don’t recall. Either Home Depot or amazon
How are you dictating which circuits get power from the inverter? Are you just manually turning off the ones you don't want?
In this case, if you watch the video closely, you can see that I kind of rearranged my circuit breakers because only half of them we’re going to be receiving a feed from the inverter. I made sure that the loads that I wanted on the inverter were to the circuit breakers.
@@WhyNotRV I saw how you rewired the circuit breakers. My question is how you are able to dictate which of those breakers are receiving the feed from the inverter. Do you have a split bar?
Did you watch the entire video? It’s every other breaker that’s on one leg. Some RVs are split in the middle and everything to one side of the center double pole breaker is on one leg. This setups panel the double pole is on the far left side and all breakers are to the right of it. Every other breaker is on one leg
@@WhyNotRV I did watch the entire video. I guess I missed the part where you explained all that. Thanks.
nice dude!!
Thanks for watching Jason!
Hi Great Video - Appears to be a good fit for what I want to do.. It appears you used 2/0 awg wire. They recommend 1/0 awg for 2000Watts. Is that true or will 2/0 awg work?
I used 2/0 mainly because I was planning for the upgrade in the future. 2/0 is thicker than 1/0 and is rated for higher wattage, amps.
@@WhyNotRV Hi There. Got mine installed last night. (Not Tested yet) need the ground wire for my Renogy. I went with the same breaker as you did, however, I'm not finding how to size that breaker, I've seen conflicting notes on that.. I did install the 200amp. Can you help me understand that?
Hey Rene, Remember that the circuit breakers job is to protect the wiring. So first question is what gauge wire did you run to it? 12 is good for 20 amp 14 is good for 15 amp. Also what size inverter did you install?
@@WhyNotRV I used your set up.. 2/0 and the 200amp breaker with a 2000w inverter. Ran 10/2 to the break panel in the RV
Ok so a 30 amp breaker is needed for 10
Can you run the AC using the inverter?
This inverter could run 1 AC and basically nothing else in the RV at the same time.
Just finished installing on my Class C. Great instructions on connecting to the circuit breaker bus bars to distribute the 110V! My only problem, is that using a circuit tester on my outlets, I came u with an anomaly. The tester has two yellow lights and a red. Normally two yellow and no red means good. However my tester is showing two yellow AND red! There is no listed legend for all three lights to be lit! Any ideas? Thanks
Hey Brian, great question! If your wiring is all correct, I would just confirm with a multimeter that voltage is proper and call it a day. Depending on the inverter, ground and neutral may be bonded or may need ground to frame to be true. So I hope this helps.
@@WhyNotRV Hi. Thanks for the quick response. Update; I checked all the wiring and it was correct. I plugged a power strip into the inverter and it works fine. However, when I hook up the lead to the panel to feed the bus bar, the inverter instantly shuts off showing a fault.
I checked the romex to the circuit box and the connector (my inverter only has standard outlets, no direct wire terminals) and the wiring is correct between the inverter and the panel.
I can use a regular extension cord and things work fine. But as soon as I try to hook to the panel, it shuts down. Any suggestions?
Is there shore power to the panel? Does everything operate normally when on shore power? Are you turning off the breaker that feeds the converter?
@@WhyNotRV Hi. No, As I do this, I disconnect from shore power and insure that the "main" breaker is off. Also I only switch the receptacle breakers "on" and nothing else. It doesn't matter if the new breaker for the inverter feed is on or off. Does that help?
Thanks
What’s the fault that the inverter reads? I’m at a loss at this point without being in front of it.
Question is the inverter big enough to run the microwave and how do your batteries recharge
Hey Jason, yes it is. I sized the inverter based on my girlfriends hair dryer which is 1875 watts. Thats the largest load this will ever take. The battery recharge system is going to be an upcoming video, most likely 2 weeks from now.
This 2000W pure sine wave inverter is suitable for microwave less than 1000W, if your microwave is more than 1000W,please choose a bigger inverter,because microwave starting power is twice of its rated power
What Brand power inverter did you use ?
I have switched to Victron for personal use. Hands down best product out there.
Does anyone have an inverter like the one installed here. If so, does the voltage from the outlet measure properly, or does it measure as reversed polarity?
I kept this installed for about 6 months before upgrading to a multiplus. The voltage measured consistently around 118-120vac
@@WhyNotRV Did you ever test the plugs (not the hardwire output) I was troubleshooting and put in a simple outlet tester in the plugs on the inverter. It shows as the polarity reversed. The company says this is normal, but I have my doubts.
BTW love the video followed your instructions and very useful
To be honest… I never checked the physical plugs on it. I would imagine they’re wired the same as the hardwire output. If it were me and it was truly reversed I would just simply rewire it and flip neutral and hot as that’s all reverse polarity is.
Would it be better just to buy $150 manual transfer switch then all your Breakers will work
Hey Damian, thanks for watching. That’s definitely another option. If you look through my channel you’ll see I actually have since upgraded to a victron multiplus.
@@WhyNotRV nice I'm getting ready to put one in my sister's what a samlex evil 3012
What made you want to go with the Samlex versus victron?
@@WhyNotRV I have one for 4 years running my house and is a 12volt sistem
Gotcha. Seems like a great product. Good luck with the upcoming install
U make it seem easy… I still don’t understand 😂
This was probably the most in depth video I have on a simple inverter setup. I have a few more videos on some more advanced installs and setups.
@@WhyNotRV i cant just hook up the inverter to its own inline fuse box and from there connect it to the main wires? Do I make sense? Thats what I thought about doing before I saw your video
There are tons of different ways to achieve what you’re looking to do. Depending on your setup, you can do that but keep in mind main shore power use as well. You can’t allow power to flow back to the inverter on the AC side from shore power. It’ll blow the inverter. You need a transfer switch of some sorts to allow shore power or inverter power but not both at once.
@@WhyNotRV nice info. I think I was thinking about doing what you did without the most important step which is why most importantly the way you did it. Thank you, makes sense now.
Absolutely. Glad I could help!
What if u don’t have room on your bus bar to wire it
There may be a few other options. One being, using a pass through inverter such as what I have installed now, the Victron multiplus. There’s other cheaper options out there as well. If you look through my videos you’ll see the install of that and it’s capabilities.
@@WhyNotRV I have a 3000 watt renogy pure sine wave inverter and I have the wires but in my breaker box there isn’t any room to wire it cause the bus bar too small
You could wire it via a transfer switch. Basically you’ll take you main power in and go to a transfer switch then to the panel and the inverter would be on the other side of that transfer switch so you could change the incoming power option
@@WhyNotRV can u show me a diagram of it ?
Shoot me a message on Facebook.
Why didn't you just have the inverter power everything instead of every other breaker?
Hey Paul, Great question. Here’s why, the stuff that’s on the other half of the breakers are all such energy hogs I wouldn’t want them draining the battery bank. Fireplace, living room AC, the converter, etc. I have since completely changed and redone my inverter, converter, batteries, added solar... I still have it only feeding half of the breakers but have considered and might test it running both sets.
@@WhyNotRV right on! Good idea! Thank you for the reply!
Absolutely!!! Thanks again for watching