We have used the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
Thanks Brian! I started my upgrade yesterday with GoPower charger/converter, transfer switch, and 1500w inverter. I took out the integrated charger/converter, and then I started questioning my sanity. Your explanation made me realize I don’t have to put the new converter/charger in the old hole, I can use corded inputs. I bought the basic transfer switch, so I need to prep it. Thanks again!
Safety - It is VERY important to tape those wire nuts for all connections, especially in an RV. Vibration may cause them to fall off, and short against the box, other wires, or ground. It shows you did it, but didn't mention it. Great instruction again, thanks for posting.
Thanks Brian. I have a 16 ft travel trailer and am installing solar power, Lipo battery, and inverter. Now I can run things boondocking. Main thing is to run fridge while driving on inverter instead of gas. I know not supposed run fridge on gas while driving but had no other way. With this transfer switch can be safer.
Thank you for the explanation. This is the exact transfer switch I have and very happy with it. Had to replace it once and that was because cables got lose and had a little bit of a short circuit so just make sure cables are not getting lose.
Well explained Brian!. Just so happens a week ago I was looking up the switches and was wondering exactly what went where and how what did what you know. It’s crystal clear now so this may be a sweet addition to my RV down the road. Thanks again! 👍😁
I did what you originally did. I put my truecharge charger on its own breaker so i could turn it off. I then ran a 10/2 cord from the inverter to a disconnect next to the shore power connection on the outside of my toyhauler. From the inverter disconnect i just installed, i spliced in a pigtail to the shore power junction. If i am going to use the shore power cable, i simply turn off the disconnect to my inverter to isolate that circuit. I had small placards made to remind me to turn off the inverter in the event of using the shore power cord, and too turn the battery charger back on, and to turn the charger off if i am running on the inverter. By doing it this way, i didn't have to mess with the existing switches between shore power and generator. I put a placard on the gen off/on to remind about the batter charger also.
I did the manual switch over for a while too, but my wife was always scared to power up the inverter. Now it's all automated and we're both comfortable powering things up safely.
@@RVwithTito I boon-dock most of the time so i rarely use the actual shore power cord. The only thing that ever gets turned off is the charger breaker. As i was writing this out, i just realized a flaw in my setup. I need to add another disconnect between the shore power plug and the splice. Right now, in my current set up the plug prongs would be back-feeding and live to the touch. I need to fix that. I mainly run on the inverter and solar. I do a lot of snowmobiling in the winter too and the solar just cant keep up with the shorter, cloudier days. I am running 4 200 watt sunpower panels on the top of the rv. I have been thinking about running another 800 watts of panels but leaving them on portable mounts for when i am running in the winter. Just put them at the correct angle facing the best direction. The winter is the only time i need the extra solar. Until I add more panels, a generator is a must for me because of winter hobbies. My current system still operates like OEM equipment with the acceptation of turning off the charger manually. Maybe i should get rid of the splice and disconnects and just put a switch in its place. It would be a cleaner and safer install. Do you know of a 3 way switch with a charge controller feature? Basically, shore power, gen power, and inverter power switch.
@@RVwithTito Brian, I am a Project Savant and would like to rent your RV. Do you have a Rent to Buy program? Or, would you or other viewers here please advise me on purchasing a used Class C setup for boon docking? Brand? Model? Solar & Batteries, Tank Sizes, Etc. Budget is
Good morning, I just found your channel and it looks good. Nice editing. My wife Emily is from the Philippines, they call me Tito Don and she is Tita Emily. We just sold our Lakewood company and lived in Tacoma many years and are full time RVing (for now) in a class-A Pierce Arrow MH.
Awesome/ this is exactly what I’m looking for for my cargo trailer toy hauler conversion. I use a residential 50 amp breaker box with a separate DC system. A lot of the transfer switches that are made for RVs. Don’t have this feature.
Great video, as usual! BUT... you made me think: I just replaced my batteries and 1000w psw inverter/charger with a 2000w Xantrex psw inverter/charger and 2 BattleBorn 100ahr batteries. Howevder, my OEM wiring did not include my microwave on the inverter circuit, so now I have to track down THAT modification... Keep the great videos coming!
@corey Babcock Thanks for the encouragement! My situation is complicated by the fact that the OEM inverter output only powered one circuit with several receptacles throughout the RV - not including the microwave. There is a separate transfer switch that handles sending power to the microwave circuit and the 120v power center when connected to shore power or the generator. I just need to study it and see where I would put an interconnect relay to sense the inverter output and switch in the microwave - I don't think I want to send the inverter output to ALL of the shore power-connected receptacles due to the potential for inverter overload.
Love it , now I have find a place to put it I have a tt and my converter is in the island on the end and my inverteris in a box on the front of our trailer , this would solve me a bunch of little things I am doing now , more questions later .
@@RVwithTito hi brian , ok I have the progressive dynamics power Converter with the built in charger for the battery will this switches box work with this unit I have
Good video Brian. I appreciate the detail. I want to ensure I've connected mine correctly because I'm not getting any power to the coach from my inverter. The AC panel is connected to the top two, the shore on the middle two, and the inverter on the bottom (the two terminals that are closer together in comparison to the others). My inverter is a 2000watt renogy, and is hard wired to the ATS. I also wired my converter/charger to the middle two via the 15 amp fuse with the 10 gauge wire from the panel to the fuse then to the middle two (with the shore). The shore power is working, but I need my inverter to work, or this install of solar has been a waste. The original set up is through the converter as you discussed in the video, but I have a lithium battery, so I'm not using the lead acid that came with the original set up. I don't want the converter charging my lithium, so I need to dismantle the converter, but then I'm thinking I won't have any power. I would appreciate any thoughts / suggestions. Kind regards, Kel
Just bought a new Go Power 30A transfer switch and they now look a little different. All the wire connections are fitted with WAGO connectors and the actual transfer switch is in a little clear plastic case so the wires cannot interfere with the operation of the switch. Apparently failures were occuring when the wires contacted the switch mechanism. That cannot happen now that the switch it protected. Its pretty slick and easy to wire.
Brain, again a great video. You do a great job covering the “details” needed to understand a subject review. The only flaw I see is, .. the transfer switch should not be that expensive; over $200. It is a fairly simple device, even the smart ones. Keep up the fine work.. we all have a dream to get out and RV more in this great country of ours.
I never knew I could use the negative bus bar for the chassis ground connection inside a transfer switch box. I thought transfer box had outside of box a special small screw for connecting it's chassis ground.
Thanks Brian I got a smoking deal on one off ebay going to install using output side of transfer switch for my shore/onboard genny so basically a three way hope it works haha
Hi Brian, best video I’ve come across so far for this application. You mentioned that you no longer have a generator, so I need a little more help. I have an old existing transfer switch (Shore Power-Generator) connected to the power center. I am adding a 3000W pure sine inverter to the mix, so where would I put this new transfer switch (Shore Power-DC) in relation to the existing one? Before or after or does it matter? Do you have any wiring diagrams for how to keep the DC power out of the charger loop? Thank you so much for your help!
Looks great. My only negative comment would be to not use wire nuts. They can fall off from the vibration of going down the road. I use crimp wire nuts for loads above 20 amps and Wago lever nuts for 20 amps and below.
For RV and vehicle installs I always wrap them with electrical tape (one around the wires going in, and one around the connector). That's what I did here. So they're pretty secure.
Been watching your videos for years. Started looking at stuff after upgrading to Lithium. When I saw you name on one after watching many others I instantly went to it and it's the most clear explanation of what a ATS is and how to apply it to a solar setup .I feel more confident tackling such a thing now. Thank you P.S..... As an audio production geek I always appreciate the sound added in the time lapse stuff.😀
Ayi yai ya yai your the Frito Bandito 😆. I would wire the secondary input to a 20 or 30A receptacle and put a plug on the inverter output. Plug the inverter into the plug when you want inverter power. OR plug the generator into the plug. Basically a manual transfer. The shore input stays intact. Does that make sense? Otherwise you would need a second automatic transfer switch.
Thank you for the explanation of the transfer switch. I will be adding solar to my 5th wheel. I will probably not be adding a transfer switch right away. Can you please tell me what I need to protect my solar system while using shore power. Thank you again.
I am wiring the TS 30 to my new cargo trailer/toyhauler. I will have an inverter or shore power for 110v AC. Hence the switch. The TS 30 is nice, as you show in the video, in that it will disconnect the 110V converter. Wire it to the NO contacts of the relay. I'll go you one further. I will basically have three systems to charge the batteries. Solar, shore power, and the trucks charging system when the trailer is plugged in. So could be travelling down the road and the truck and solar will be charging the batteries simultaneously unless I disconnect the solar panels. Think I could wire the solar leads to the NC contacts of the relay and eliminate the solar charging while on shore power and plugged to the truck?
What adaptor did you use for the inverter and converter plugs? And do you leave your inverter in the ON position all the time now or do you manually turn on the inverter just before disconnecting the shore power?
I'm not sure. But I think you need a second transfer switch if you want to run a on board generator also on the system. My Motorhome has three sources of AC power: inverter, generator, shore power. So you'll need to keep the existing transfer switch to isolate the generator from shore power.
The 20 second delay is to give time to the generator to run at normal rpm . I bypassed the circuit board so the transfer from low battery charge to short power is instantly. That will only happen if there's not sunlight for a long time and drain the battery below 30%. Otherwise, the solar controller is in charge to keep battery pack at 90% charged.
OK...please ignore my post below. I finally figured out the key piece of info I was missing and now know how it works. I will be finishing wiring next trip to RV storage, so "Life is good". No more need for the straight jacket...LOL
Hello thank you for all your video's. I find them very helpful. I'm actually in the process of hooking up a sungoldpower 3000w inverter/charger. I bought the gopower 30amp transfer switch after your video on the converter loop. I do not have an on board generator. So my question is can I still use that transfer switch or should I buy the one in this video with the cords ? Thanks
Great video's, thank you. I have been looking into this and from what I can see, the difference between the GP-TS-30 & TS-30 is the added 110v pigtail for an extra $140.00 I may get the $79 version and 'convert' it to the GP style. We still have our generator so my plan is to use this transfer switch ahead of the stock switch, making shore power primary. The stock transfer switch will still see 110v hitting it unaware if either shore or inverter. It may be next year before my theory can be proved, still budgeting the $5K for this.
Hey Brian, BIG fan...love your stuff. However, I needed more clarity on wiring the charger output female plug into the charger/converter. My problem is if I do like you suggest, how much juice will flow to my Lithium batteries? I put in a new PD converter/charger that has a special switch for Lithium batteries. This would be bypassed based on my understanding of your video. Please advise...may have not fully grasped what you did! Regards, Steve
Great Video! This is pretty much exactly what I want to do, but you mentioned it may not be the right choice for me. I have an Anker Solix C1000 solar generator that I'd like to use if not on shore power. My RV does not have an easy way to route the shore power cable inside the RV. I would like to have a way to plug the Anker in to the transfer switch and NOT have it charge the batteries. I would also like to be able to turn on the TV, maybe run the microwave, power the lights, the AC receptacles, etc. This would mostly be for quick stops while travelling and possible some weekend boondocking trips in moderate weather. Here's the problem. I have a combo Converter/Battery Charger. It's a WFCO WF-8735-AD. Is there a way I could reroute the battery charger power to connect to the Transfer switch and use this setup?
That's what I'm doing. Have not checked the transfer switch to see what is installed. I could run a extension cord to the charger from shore power bypassing everything. See what happens.
I was looking at the GP-TS unit for my boat, but the problem is it wasn't IP68 certified. I think I'm going to order it anyway since I can't find a comparable product that is. Oh, and I'll use your link to order it so you get the affiliate sugar, since it's all the same price anyway. We'll have to see how long the relay lasts in a damp environment.
Yeah. There's no weather seal on it, but you could add something on the lid if moisture is an issue. You'd also need to use weather proof glands on the entry points.
Why would you need a relay @ 1:22 ? Just hook the power wire of the charger to the hot side of your shore power. It's that easy and no relay needed. Adding a 15 amp fuse in that wire is definitely recommended.
Hey Brian, Love your videos. I have a 34 foot class a motorhome. No solar. Regular 6 6volt interstate batteries. I need to run a floor model AC. It's around 1250 watts. I really don't want to run the generator. What would be a really inexpensive way to do this. Also, I was looking to do this while I was running down the road. When we stop I don't mind turning on the generator. Yes we have 2 ceiling units but I know that would be a challenge. So the floor model will work for us. Thank you
Love your videos Brian. Even being that this one is 2yr old I still learn a lot from your content. I need to get this setup in my travel trailer. I have a 3000w inverter and a portable generator. This transfer switch should work so when I run the generator, the converter is charging the batteries, but when I run the inverter, it won’t charge via the converter, correct? So the generator and shore power cable share the same connection in the transfer switch?
Don't connect both shore power and generator directly to the transfer switch. I would use the shore power cord to connect to the generator (when in use). That way you'll never have the possibility of running both generator and shower power at the same time. Is that what you meant?
Thought that is how they worked, nice $70,000 5th wheel we have has an auto transfer switch for shore & On board Generator, Has an awful Hum and im sure it uses power (when inverter is plugged into shore it line it hums like a son of a!) Even Disconnecting the Mains on the panel inside doesnt turn it off (With Inverter, fridge, hot water tank, microwave, AC), turned off. Just doing a 3kw inverter, 600 watt solar setup for our one units 3 month site.
Interesting to see the transfer switch provides a fuse for the converter/charger. I was wondering if there was something to provide over current protection, since you’d have to take the existing breaker for the charger out of the circuit.
Great video! I have a few questions. I want to power just 1 breaker/circuit with my inverter. Would I move the wire from that breaker to the ATS, then attach the output wires from the ATS to the breaker? I have 50 amp service in my RV. Could I use the 30 amp instead of the 50 amp ATS beings I'm only going to a 20 amp breaker?
Hi Brian...this may be exactly what I was looking for. The only thing I am concerned about is that I have both shorepower and a 4000w Onan generator. I have an existing transfer switch that changes between shore power and the generator. I am thinking of adding a watchdog surge protector after the original transfer switch and was wondering if I can connect the new 30A Go Power inverter transfer switch downstream of the surge protector. As you showed on your video, I would then connect the shorepower / generator wire to the primary input of the inverter transfer switch and the secondary input would connect to my inverter. The output wire would then continue to the battery charger (aka converter)...Please correct me if I am wrong. I want to make sure this would be possible to do. Also, I haven't added solar, but want to. The solar I install would most probably be portable for now (200w to 400w solar panels) and would not be installed on the roof...I would then run the charging wire to my battery bank (need to see how to connect it to my battery bank). Currently, I only have the two original Lead acid house batteries, since I just bought my Thor Vegas 24.1 motorhome less than 6 months ago, but I will eventually upgrade to lithium batteries...I would love to run my microwave, but I don't know if two lithium batteries would do the trick. I may have to upgrade to 4 lithium batteries just like you have. I apologize about the long reply, but I am new to RVing and just recently subscribed to your channel...I do love your channel and how you explain everything in detail and so well. Thank you again for allowing me to subscribe to your channel.
Hi Brian... greetings fron the sunny Gold Coast in Queensland Australia! Always love your informative videos and this partivular video is exactly what i need. Btw... What does "Tito" mean? Maybe being an Aussie doesn't help trying to figure it out! Cheers mate :0)
what about shore, generator, solar, sources, charging house batteries, running house. plus pin 7 from tow vehicle (I now that is a separate issue, just looking for conformation
Shouldn’t you have ran your charger output from the transfer box through the 15 amp circuit breaker to the converter so that you could see that from the panel?
Hi Tito, great video! I do have one question. In the video after all is connected, you showed a black power cord connected from the transfer switch to the inverter. Now at the connected end of the inverter did you just simply plug the male end of the cord into the outlet on the inverter? Because when you shoot footage from the transfer switch to the inverter there is a black plug - plugged into the inverter? Is it that easy? Thank you!
Hi Brian ... thanks for all your informative vids, they are a real help. Question for you - i want to use 12v dc power to run my new iceco refrig/freezer. I am setup with a solar battery bank and output is through an inverter. My promblem is that my inverter does not have a cig lighter socket for dc output. How would you setup a solar system to deliver 12v output from battery bank to frig?? Thank you ahead of time aloha, me
I was going to get that exact same switch, but reading the reviews on Amazon, many said they were receiving old, discontinued stock that GoPower does not recommend. Make sure you don't have one of those. The other reason is the plastic box. Not great should the wiring overheat. I suppose that's debatable point considering most all the electrical stuff and outlets in an RV are plastic.
Should be fine. It works as you can see. My other xfer switch died after 13 years. So this one definitely works better :) By the way the other switch was also in a plastic enclosure which was perfectly fine after all that time. If your wires are heating up, then you're plastic box is the least of your problems.
thanks for sharing such wonderful vedio,i like it every much,but i cant get all the information for i am not native,so can you so kind to add English subtitles on the vedio?
Great video thanks so much! I'm set up about like you, but keeping my generator. Do I need to change those connection at all? Also my solar panels go to my controller then to same batteries. Will this create a problem? Happy New Year!!
I am looking for an automatic switch (if available) that can switch between a grid power AC input and a generator AC input, and then output to a Victron inverter. The generator used is a Cummins Onan RV generator. Both inputs need to be combined into one input that feeds into the inverter. I am looking to set up this system in a slightly different way than typical systems that use traditional transfer switch functionality. I am not running the generator continuously, and I just need to feed the generator AC input into the inverter when the grid power is offline. I am not transferring power from grid to generator either. I am just switching between two different inputs, that may or may not be energized at the given time. Technically, I am looking for a remotely actively AC switch, and not a true transfer switch. When the input source is switched from grid to generator, the generator input would always be inactive, but when switching from generator to grid power, this is a chance that both inputs would be active based on the inverters generator start schedule. The issue is that my Victron inverter has only one AC input. Victron does make an inverter with two AC inputs, but I am trying to see if I can replicate that functionality with my current inverter.
I don't know of a Auto Transfer Switch that can be controlled remotely, but you could setup a remote start for your generator through the Victron Cerbo and let the ATS do the rest. Any standard ATS will work if you wire the shore and generator outputs to it, then run the ATS output to the Multiplus AC IN. The optimal setup would use a Victron Quattro II which eliminates the ATS all together since it has dual AC inputs and remote automation. Here's a referral link if you want to check it out further rvwithtito.com/victron-quattro2. Is this the inverter you were referring to?
Yea, I got a trailer with a solar panel, inverter (2000w), a Onan 4400 generator & 30A shore power. No outlets work from the inverter so I'm guessing that isn't tied to the ATS if there is one. Just the genny & shore because I can use outlets on either of those, none work from the battery load. So, can I get a better ATS to include the inverter & draw power from the batteries to inverter to main panel & get power to outlets from the DC batteries?
This works great for 30 amps. Is there a 50-amp version that functions so that the inverter kicks off when you're connected to shore power? I see where Go Power has a 50-amp system, but I don't see the charging pigtail with it.
Another great video Brian - A great future install if I get to it. I did some checking on Amazon and found a Thor brand 30 amp transfer switch for only $80 but it's not prewired. It looks exactly like the one you just installed from Go Power or was it Progressive Dynamics? LOL
The prewired version is way overpriced. Also the charger connection is very easy to impliment it just wires into the shore power portion of the switch. Not worth paying 300 more for the prewired version lol. We Love the channel!!! 'When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace' Jimi Hendrix
Thanks! Great video. Alternatively, couldn’t you wire the converter up to its own breaker and back feed the panel with the inverter and just switch that breaker off when you’re not on shore power?
Brian I don’t know if you can answer this. I have a 50 amp shore power, 4000 watt single phase generator now. I am wanting to add a victron dual phase inverter charger. I have a transfer switch. How can I wire all three and make them work together? Thank you for all you do!
hey TITO, @4:45 what if my 1200 watts solar is going through charge controller then to inverter; can't the inverter go into PD4575 charger/converter also? not planning on shore power much at all. but i definitely want to use the 4-stage charger on the PD4575. you said not good for battery to charge battery but what about when they are getting solar charging like i explained? THX!
How does your transfer switch tie into your inverter? My inverter has just the port for battery so I'm wondering if I need to get a different inverter or how I can connect to a transfer switch.
Thank you for another great video! Question. How quick is the switch? Do you have to reset clocks and such? Any devices suffer from quick loss of power? Tv stay on ect? Thank you in advance.
I think there's a slight delay, but you don't lose power. Once it switches, it switches quickly. I'm going by memory because I haven't been on shore power for over 6 months :)
@@RVwithTito thanks for the reply. I received my ts-30 yesterday and will install it tomorrow. The delay if there is one is not a big deal im just concerned it will hurt sensitive equipment that is in operation when generator runs out of gas and change is made. If its less than a second ac and tv should be ok.....p.s. jealous about not being on shore power for over 6 months. I would think that means your enjoying yourself.
Hello Tito, one question and it may not has to do with your subject, but here we go. (50 amps) When I have my generator running with air conditioners on and I plug in my shore power at the campground, does my transfer switch should take over and switch to shore power? is 40 sec a standard on the transfer switch? I ask this, because when I plug in to shore power and I turn of the generators, by A/C's go off and I have to wait till the safety time turn them back on. I think i have to wait for the time to count down for the shore connection to take over. I think I am turning the Gen to soon. I hope I am making sense here. Great video as always!!!
I have a 5th wheel with the generator install package wired to the front compartment where the generator would be. Can't I just connect both the transfer switch and inverter through that wiring to go into the main electrical panel?
I enjoy all your videos. Your work is outstanding, explanations are clear. Thanks. My question: how come you installed the transfer switch flat? I was always told and read that a transfer switch can be installed in any position EXCEPT flat, for security reasons. Safe travel.
While troubleshooting a Magnum 3112 with a failed breaker switch, one of the 2 switches had burned because the coach vibration led to the 'off duty switch' to fall flat and short circuit. Still can't figure out why, but it was 8 years old...? While looking over videos on TH-cam, seems some manufacturers do not recommend mounting flat, probably for that same safety reason. Manufacturer install manual probably is the reference if the product is well documented, which is not always the case with some Asian products. I especially enjoyed your video on the Lithium batteries/ bracket. Will build something similar. Very cool ! Safe travel.
Great video as usual, Brian. Thank you. I'm curious: Just what is the reason for the 20-40 sec delay built in to the transfer system? And why isn't the charger output line benefitting from it? If it's a power stability delay, then isn't there a chance "unstable" power is immediately being sent to the charging system before the "clunk"? Curious minds...
It probably is a stability delay. The charger is wired to the shore power input on the incoming side of the relay. If it were on the output side then it would also turn on when switched to the inverter which defeats the purpose. Hope that helps.
@@RVwithTito Thought so. Thanks, Brian. One more reason to have some power monitoring/protection on the input side of the RV's electronics. Dirty shore power would head straight to the charger.
Tito, Thanks for your video. I have a question, can I use my solar system (Bluetti 200max) as a main source, and when my bluetti is off, transfer automatically to The RV park shore poweer ?? thanks
Brian, nice job! Just to be sure, is the 15 amp fuse located in the transfer switch box connected to the output to the AC breaker panel or to the converter/charger?
Brian, thanks for the great video, I have an 08 Winnebago. my tv outlet runs off the inverter and when connected to shore power it runs from ac, I didn't understand how it worked but thanks to your video I have a better understanding of it. I just installed an electric fireplace that the tv is now mounted to the top of can I plug the fireplace into this outlet or should I run a dedicated line from the breaker box?
You'll need to know the rated AC current (in amps) of the fireplace and everything else on that circuit. Make sure the electrical wire and circuit breaker on that circuit is adequate.
Great video! Quick question: how does this affect the 12VDC outputs connected to the converter? This is my understanding at this point - When shore power is connected, the converter is powered, which would covert the 120VAC shore power to 12VDC through the converter to power the devices (as well as charge the batteries). When inverter power is connected, the converter is NOT powered, so the 12VDC outputs are being powered from the batteries. Is this correct?
Yes, exactly. The converter and batteries are both connected to the 12V distribution panel. Whichever one is providing the higher voltage ends up providing the power. So when the converter is off, all power is coming from the batteries. When the convert is on and charging, then the it's also powering the DC panel.
Noobie here, so I'm reading all questions and answers... If I understood correctly (not very probable), the inverter changes the 12v DC to 120v and this new switch chooses between shore power and the 120v coming from the inverter to supply power to all 120 devices in the rv. My question is when the switch senses 120v coming from the shore power cable, besides the fact it provides 120v to all outlets and to the battery charger, the inverter then changes power from 120v AC to 12v DC so all 12c stuff isn't powered by the batteries? Phew, I hope it makes sense!
Can I do this application for my party bus? I did away with the original AC units because they don’t keep the bus cool in Texas. I installed 2 Coleman Rv rooftop units. I’ve already installed the generator and it run perfect but how do I power my AC’s while driving the bus because I can’t run a generator while running the bus. It’s a blue bird school bus
We have used the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
Thanks Brian! I started my upgrade yesterday with GoPower charger/converter, transfer switch, and 1500w inverter. I took out the integrated charger/converter, and then I started questioning my sanity. Your explanation made me realize I don’t have to put the new converter/charger in the old hole, I can use corded inputs. I bought the basic transfer switch, so I need to prep it. Thanks again!
Safety - It is VERY important to tape those wire nuts for all connections, especially in an RV. Vibration may cause them to fall off, and short against the box, other wires, or ground. It shows you did it, but didn't mention it. Great instruction again, thanks for posting.
Thanks for noticing that. I always wrap them as you saw, but should have mentioned it.
@@RVwithTito next time.
Excellent. Another fine video of information for handy RV craftsmen or craftswomen.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
great video, I put the same one in my rv last summer, works great..
Thanks. Great to hear!
This is exactly what I've been looking for! Thanks!
Thanks Brian.
I have a 16 ft travel trailer and am installing solar power, Lipo battery, and inverter. Now I can run things boondocking. Main thing is to run fridge while driving on inverter instead of gas. I know not supposed run fridge on gas while driving but had no other way. With this transfer switch can be safer.
Great video Brian ! It really helped me out in my upcoming solar / inverter install. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Glad it helped
I had questions but you did so well that now I don't ... yet it is neat how you can work so "fast"... 😁
Movie magic :) Glad I got your questions answered.
Great example. Answered my questions.
Great👍
Great content, absolutely what I needed for my DIY off-grid setup, and still have option to utilize shore power when necessary. Thank-you!
Thank you for the explanation. This is the exact transfer switch I have and very happy with it. Had to replace it once and that was because cables got lose and had a little bit of a short circuit so just make sure cables are not getting lose.
Good to know Jorge. I'll double check.
Great explanation and works great on shore power hookup for 30 amp rigs like me.
Yes it does!
Greetings from New Zealand. Well explained change out .Steve 🇳🇿👍
Thanks Steve! Greetings.
Well explained Brian!. Just so happens a week ago I was looking up the switches and was wondering exactly what went where and how what did what you know. It’s crystal clear now so this may be a sweet addition to my RV down the road. Thanks again! 👍😁
Crystal clear is pretty good :) Glad to help.
I did what you originally did. I put my truecharge charger on its own breaker so i could turn it off. I then ran a 10/2 cord from the inverter to a disconnect next to the shore power connection on the outside of my toyhauler. From the inverter disconnect i just installed, i spliced in a pigtail to the shore power junction. If i am going to use the shore power cable, i simply turn off the disconnect to my inverter to isolate that circuit. I had small placards made to remind me to turn off the inverter in the event of using the shore power cord, and too turn the battery charger back on, and to turn the charger off if i am running on the inverter. By doing it this way, i didn't have to mess with the existing switches between shore power and generator. I put a placard on the gen off/on to remind about the batter charger also.
I did the manual switch over for a while too, but my wife was always scared to power up the inverter. Now it's all automated and we're both comfortable powering things up safely.
@@RVwithTito I boon-dock most of the time so i rarely use the actual shore power cord. The only thing that ever gets turned off is the charger breaker. As i was writing this out, i just realized a flaw in my setup. I need to add another disconnect between the shore power plug and the splice. Right now, in my current set up the plug prongs would be back-feeding and live to the touch. I need to fix that. I mainly run on the inverter and solar. I do a lot of snowmobiling in the winter too and the solar just cant keep up with the shorter, cloudier days. I am running 4 200 watt sunpower panels on the top of the rv. I have been thinking about running another 800 watts of panels but leaving them on portable mounts for when i am running in the winter. Just put them at the correct angle facing the best direction. The winter is the only time i need the extra solar. Until I add more panels, a generator is a must for me because of winter hobbies. My current system still operates like OEM equipment with the acceptation of turning off the charger manually. Maybe i should get rid of the splice and disconnects and just put a switch in its place. It would be a cleaner and safer install. Do you know of a 3 way switch with a charge controller feature? Basically, shore power, gen power, and inverter power switch.
😎👍 I hope to see more new videos I was waiting for your videos
Working on it. I've been absorbed by other projects.
@@RVwithTito Brian, I am a Project Savant and would like to rent your RV.
Do you have a Rent to Buy program?
Or, would you or other viewers here please advise me on purchasing a used Class C setup for boon docking? Brand? Model? Solar & Batteries, Tank Sizes, Etc. Budget is
Good morning, I just found your channel and it looks good. Nice editing. My wife Emily is from the Philippines, they call me Tito Don and she is Tita Emily. We just sold our Lakewood company and lived in Tacoma many years and are full time RVing (for now) in a class-A Pierce Arrow MH.
Well hello Tito and Tita. How are you enjoying full timing?
@@RVwithTito Yes very much, it's a holiday every day. :) Sige na, bakit hindi.
Kamusta kayo po kuya..... :) Would you be willing to subscribe to my channel, like we did for you, to help us out? It is so hard to get subs.
Awesome/ this is exactly what I’m looking for for my cargo trailer toy hauler conversion. I use a residential 50 amp breaker box with a separate DC system. A lot of the transfer switches that are made for RVs. Don’t have this feature.
Great video, as usual! BUT... you made me think: I just replaced my batteries and 1000w psw inverter/charger with a 2000w Xantrex psw inverter/charger and 2 BattleBorn 100ahr batteries. Howevder, my OEM wiring did not include my microwave on the inverter circuit, so now I have to track down THAT modification... Keep the great videos coming!
You can do it. Thx.
@corey Babcock Thanks for the encouragement! My situation is complicated by the fact that the OEM inverter output only powered one circuit with several receptacles throughout the RV - not including the microwave. There is a separate transfer switch that handles sending power to the microwave circuit and the 120v power center when connected to shore power or the generator. I just need to study it and see where I would put an interconnect relay to sense the inverter output and switch in the microwave - I don't think I want to send the inverter output to ALL of the shore power-connected receptacles due to the potential for inverter overload.
Can you provide info on transfer switch
No problem. There's a link in the video description...or here (amzn.to/3xW3l9O)
Great information and well presented. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Love it , now I have find a place to put it I have a tt and my converter is in the island on the end and my inverteris in a box on the front of our trailer , this would solve me a bunch of little things I am doing now , more questions later .
Ok. Good luck. Mine is on the other end of the rig too.
@@RVwithTito hi brian , ok I have the progressive dynamics power
Converter with the built in charger for the battery will this switches box work with this unit I have
Nice, good information
Thanks Tim.
Good video Brian. I appreciate the detail. I want to ensure I've connected mine correctly because I'm not getting any power to the coach from my inverter.
The AC panel is connected to the top two, the shore on the middle two, and the inverter on the bottom (the two terminals that are closer together in comparison to the others). My inverter is a 2000watt renogy, and is hard wired to the ATS.
I also wired my converter/charger to the middle two via the 15 amp fuse with the 10 gauge wire from the panel to the fuse then to the middle two (with the shore). The shore power is working, but I need my inverter to work, or this install of solar has been a waste.
The original set up is through the converter as you discussed in the video, but I have a lithium battery, so I'm not using the lead acid that came with the original set up. I don't want the converter charging my lithium, so I need to dismantle the converter, but then I'm thinking I won't have any power. I would appreciate any thoughts / suggestions.
Kind regards,
Kel
Just bought a new Go Power 30A transfer switch and they now look a little different. All the wire connections are fitted with WAGO connectors and the actual transfer switch is in a little clear plastic case so the wires cannot interfere with the operation of the switch. Apparently failures were occuring when the wires contacted the switch mechanism. That cannot happen now that the switch it protected. Its pretty slick and easy to wire.
Brain, again a great video. You do a great job covering the “details” needed to understand a subject
review. The only flaw I see is, .. the transfer switch should not be that expensive; over $200. It is a fairly simple device, even the smart ones. Keep up the fine work.. we all have a dream to get out and RV more in this great country of ours.
Thanks. And I totally agree. It's overpriced, but I wanted to keep it as simple as possible for others. Hope you can get out there soon!
Great video, well done !!
Glad you liked it!
I never knew I could use the negative bus bar for the chassis ground connection inside a transfer switch box. I thought transfer box had outside of box a special small screw for connecting it's chassis ground.
Thanks Brian I got a smoking deal on one off ebay going to install using output side of transfer switch for my shore/onboard genny so basically a three way hope it works haha
Awesome! Hope it works out.
Hi Brian, best video I’ve come across so far for this application. You mentioned that you no longer have a generator, so I need a little more help. I have an old existing transfer switch (Shore Power-Generator) connected to the power center. I am adding a 3000W pure sine inverter to the mix, so where would I put this new transfer switch (Shore Power-DC) in relation to the existing one? Before or after or does it matter? Do you have any wiring diagrams for how to keep the DC power out of the charger loop? Thank you so much for your help!
Looks great. My only negative comment would be to not use wire nuts. They can fall off from the vibration of going down the road. I use crimp wire nuts for loads above 20 amps and Wago lever nuts for 20 amps and below.
For RV and vehicle installs I always wrap them with electrical tape (one around the wires going in, and one around the connector). That's what I did here. So they're pretty secure.
Been watching your videos for years. Started looking at stuff after upgrading to Lithium. When I saw you name on one after watching many others I instantly went to it and it's the most clear explanation of what a ATS is and how to apply it to a solar setup .I feel more confident tackling such a thing now. Thank you
P.S..... As an audio production geek I always appreciate the sound added in the time lapse stuff.😀
You're welcome! BTW there's no sound added on those. That's the actual audio...sped up with the clip.
Good video, Bryan. How would you go about hooking an existing onboard generator into this system?
Ayi yai ya yai your the Frito Bandito 😆. I would wire the secondary input to a 20 or 30A receptacle and put a plug on the inverter output. Plug the inverter into the plug when you want inverter power. OR plug the generator into the plug. Basically a manual transfer. The shore input stays intact. Does that make sense? Otherwise you would need a second automatic transfer switch.
Thank you for the explanation of the transfer switch. I will be adding solar to my 5th wheel. I will probably not be adding a transfer switch right away. Can you please tell me what I need to protect my solar system while using shore power. Thank you again.
I am trying to find the fuse holder at 10:46 for the charger/converter. My TS-30 did not come with it.
I am wiring the TS 30 to my new cargo trailer/toyhauler. I will have an inverter or shore power for 110v AC. Hence the switch. The TS 30 is nice, as you show in the video, in that it will disconnect the 110V converter. Wire it to the NO contacts of the relay. I'll go you one further. I will basically have three systems to charge the batteries. Solar, shore power, and the trucks charging system when the trailer is plugged in. So could be travelling down the road and the truck and solar will be charging the batteries simultaneously unless I disconnect the solar panels. Think I could wire the solar leads to the NC contacts of the relay and eliminate the solar charging while on shore power and plugged to the truck?
Great Video !
Thanks!
What adaptor did you use for the inverter and converter plugs? And do you leave your inverter in the ON position all the time now or do you manually turn on the inverter just before disconnecting the shore power?
I'm not sure. But I think you need a second transfer switch if you want to run a on board generator also on the system. My Motorhome has three sources of AC power: inverter, generator, shore power. So you'll need to keep the existing transfer switch to isolate the generator from shore power.
The 20 second delay is to give time to the generator to run at normal rpm . I bypassed the circuit board so the transfer from low battery charge to short power is instantly. That will only happen if there's not sunlight for a long time and drain the battery below 30%. Otherwise, the solar controller is in charge to keep battery pack at 90% charged.
OK...please ignore my post below. I finally figured out the key piece of info I was missing and now know how it works. I will be finishing wiring next trip to RV storage, so "Life is good". No more need for the straight jacket...LOL
Hello thank you for all your video's. I find them very helpful. I'm actually in the process of hooking up a sungoldpower 3000w inverter/charger. I bought the gopower 30amp transfer switch after your video on the converter loop. I do not have an on board generator. So my question is can I still use that transfer switch or should I buy the one in this video with the cords ? Thanks
As long as you've got the converter loop bypass figured out, then you should be ok. This transfer switch just makes it easier.
Great video's, thank you. I have been looking into this and from what I can see, the difference between the GP-TS-30 & TS-30 is the added 110v pigtail for an extra $140.00 I may get the $79 version and 'convert' it to the GP style. We still have our generator so my plan is to use this transfer switch ahead of the stock switch, making shore power primary. The stock transfer switch will still see 110v hitting it unaware if either shore or inverter. It may be next year before my theory can be proved, still budgeting the $5K for this.
Your $140 also gets you a 15 amp fuse and holder. I wired TS 30 and it works great.
Hey Brian, BIG fan...love your stuff. However, I needed more clarity on wiring the charger output female plug into the charger/converter. My problem is if I do like you suggest, how much juice will flow to my Lithium batteries? I put in a new PD converter/charger that has a special switch for Lithium batteries. This would be bypassed based on my understanding of your video. Please advise...may have not fully grasped what you did! Regards, Steve
Great Video! This is pretty much exactly what I want to do, but you mentioned it may not be the right choice for me. I have an Anker Solix C1000 solar generator that I'd like to use if not on shore power. My RV does not have an easy way to route the shore power cable inside the RV. I would like to have a way to plug the Anker in to the transfer switch and NOT have it charge the batteries. I would also like to be able to turn on the TV, maybe run the microwave, power the lights, the AC receptacles, etc. This would mostly be for quick stops while travelling and possible some weekend boondocking trips in moderate weather. Here's the problem. I have a combo Converter/Battery Charger. It's a WFCO WF-8735-AD. Is there a way I could reroute the battery charger power to connect to the Transfer switch and use this setup?
Cool setup thanks for the info
You bet
That's what I'm doing. Have not checked the transfer switch to see what is installed. I could run a extension cord to the charger from shore power bypassing everything.
See what happens.
That's kind of what this is doing. It's powered from the shore power side of the switch. Good luck!
I was looking at the GP-TS unit for my boat, but the problem is it wasn't IP68 certified. I think I'm going to order it anyway since I can't find a comparable product that is. Oh, and I'll use your link to order it so you get the affiliate sugar, since it's all the same price anyway. We'll have to see how long the relay lasts in a damp environment.
Yeah. There's no weather seal on it, but you could add something on the lid if moisture is an issue. You'd also need to use weather proof glands on the entry points.
Why would you need a relay @ 1:22 ? Just hook the power wire of the charger to the hot side of your shore power. It's that easy and no relay needed. Adding a 15 amp fuse in that wire is definitely recommended.
What about the generator input? Essentially, I need 3 inputs: Shore, Inverter and Generator. Thanks!
Please explain more clearly what you are transferring from. I want to use rv generator inverter to change 12v dc to 120ac?
Hey Brian,
Love your videos. I have a 34 foot class a motorhome. No solar. Regular 6 6volt interstate batteries. I need to run a floor model AC. It's around 1250 watts. I really don't want to run the generator. What would be a really inexpensive way to do this. Also, I was looking to do this while I was running down the road. When we stop I don't mind turning on the generator. Yes we have 2 ceiling units but I know that would be a challenge. So the floor model will work for us. Thank you
Love your videos Brian. Even being that this one is 2yr old I still learn a lot from your content. I need to get this setup in my travel trailer. I have a 3000w inverter and a portable generator. This transfer switch should work so when I run the generator, the converter is charging the batteries, but when I run the inverter, it won’t charge via the converter, correct? So the generator and shore power cable share the same connection in the transfer switch?
Don't connect both shore power and generator directly to the transfer switch. I would use the shore power cord to connect to the generator (when in use). That way you'll never have the possibility of running both generator and shower power at the same time. Is that what you meant?
I was looking for something like this!!
Thought that is how they worked, nice $70,000 5th wheel we have has an auto transfer switch for shore & On board Generator, Has an awful Hum and im sure it uses power (when inverter is plugged into shore it line it hums like a son of a!) Even Disconnecting the Mains on the panel inside doesnt turn it off (With Inverter, fridge, hot water tank, microwave, AC), turned off.
Just doing a 3kw inverter, 600 watt solar setup for our one units 3 month site.
Interesting to see the transfer switch provides a fuse for the converter/charger. I was wondering if there was something to provide over current protection, since you’d have to take the existing breaker for the charger out of the circuit.
Great video! I have a few questions. I want to power just 1 breaker/circuit with my inverter. Would I move the wire from that breaker to the ATS, then attach the output wires from the ATS to the breaker? I have 50 amp service in my RV. Could I use the 30 amp instead of the 50 amp ATS beings I'm only going to a 20 amp breaker?
Hi Brian...this may be exactly what I was looking for. The only thing I am concerned about is that I have both shorepower and a 4000w Onan generator. I have an existing transfer switch that changes between shore power and the generator. I am thinking of adding a watchdog surge protector after the original transfer switch and was wondering if I can connect the new 30A Go Power inverter transfer switch downstream of the surge protector. As you showed on your video, I would then connect the shorepower / generator wire to the primary input of the inverter transfer switch and the secondary input would connect to my inverter. The output wire would then continue to the battery charger (aka converter)...Please correct me if I am wrong. I want to make sure this would be possible to do. Also, I haven't added solar, but want to. The solar I install would most probably be portable for now (200w to 400w solar panels) and would not be installed on the roof...I would then run the charging wire to my battery bank (need to see how to connect it to my battery bank). Currently, I only have the two original Lead acid house batteries, since I just bought my Thor Vegas 24.1 motorhome less than 6 months ago, but I will eventually upgrade to lithium batteries...I would love to run my microwave, but I don't know if two lithium batteries would do the trick. I may have to upgrade to 4 lithium batteries just like you have. I apologize about the long reply, but I am new to RVing and just recently subscribed to your channel...I do love your channel and how you explain everything in detail and so well. Thank you again for allowing me to subscribe to your channel.
I'm in the same situation I put in 400 watt solar panels 2000 inverter Can I use this with my generator thank you I love your slept up
Blueprint please 🗽🇺🇸☮️✌️ picture worth a million words
Hi Brian... greetings fron the sunny Gold Coast in Queensland Australia! Always love your informative videos and this partivular video is exactly what i need. Btw... What does "Tito" mean? Maybe being an Aussie doesn't help trying to figure it out! Cheers mate :0)
When wiring this guy up, should I put it in line on a bus bar? Or batteries to ATS then to bus bar?
what about shore, generator, solar, sources, charging house batteries, running house. plus pin 7 from tow vehicle (I now that is a separate issue, just looking for conformation
Shouldn’t you have ran your charger output from the transfer box through the 15 amp circuit breaker to the converter so that you could see that from the panel?
Hi Tito, great video! I do have one question. In the video after all is connected, you showed a black power cord connected from the transfer switch to the inverter. Now at the connected end of the inverter did you just simply plug the male end of the cord into the outlet on the inverter? Because when you shoot footage from the transfer switch to the inverter there is a black plug - plugged into the inverter? Is it that easy? Thank you!
Yes. My inverter doesn't have a hard wired option (some do) So I just use a heavy gauge power cord plugged into the inverter output outlet.
I have shore power and on-board gas generator already. I am adding 3000 watt inverter so I guess I need a transfer switch that take in THREE sources?
Sounds like too much thinking for that switch. You'll need two transfer switches or simply add a plug for the shore/gen input and move it manually.
Hi Brian ... thanks for all your informative vids, they are a real help.
Question for you - i want to use 12v dc power to run my new iceco refrig/freezer. I am setup with a solar battery bank and output is through an inverter. My promblem is that my inverter does not have a cig lighter socket for dc output.
How would you setup a solar system to deliver 12v output from battery bank to frig??
Thank you ahead of time
aloha, me
I would bypass the inverter and wire a plug right from the DC output of the battery. You're fridge will use less energy doing it that way.
I was going to get that exact same switch, but reading the reviews on Amazon, many said they were receiving old, discontinued stock that GoPower does not recommend. Make sure you don't have one of those.
The other reason is the plastic box. Not great should the wiring overheat. I suppose that's debatable point considering most all the electrical stuff and outlets in an RV are plastic.
Should be fine. It works as you can see. My other xfer switch died after 13 years. So this one definitely works better :) By the way the other switch was also in a plastic enclosure which was perfectly fine after all that time. If your wires are heating up, then you're plastic box is the least of your problems.
thanks for sharing such wonderful vedio,i like it every much,but i cant get all the information for i am not native,so can you so kind to add English subtitles on the vedio?
As far as the 20-40 sec delay will this harm sensitive electronics?
Great video thanks so much! I'm set up about like you, but keeping my generator. Do I need to change those connection at all? Also my solar panels go to my controller then to same batteries. Will this create a problem?
Happy New Year!!
I am looking for an automatic switch (if available) that can switch between a grid power AC input and a generator AC input, and then output to a Victron inverter. The generator used is a Cummins Onan RV generator. Both inputs need to be combined into one input that feeds into the inverter.
I am looking to set up this system in a slightly different way than typical systems that use traditional transfer switch functionality.
I am not running the generator continuously, and I just need to feed the generator AC input into the inverter when the grid power is offline. I am not transferring power from grid to generator either. I am just switching between two different inputs, that may or may not be energized at the given time. Technically, I am looking for a remotely actively AC switch, and not a true transfer switch.
When the input source is switched from grid to generator, the generator input would always be inactive, but when switching from generator to grid power, this is a chance that both inputs would be active based on the inverters generator start schedule.
The issue is that my Victron inverter has only one AC input. Victron does make an inverter with two AC inputs, but I am trying to see if I can replicate that functionality with my current inverter.
I don't know of a Auto Transfer Switch that can be controlled remotely, but you could setup a remote start for your generator through the Victron Cerbo and let the ATS do the rest. Any standard ATS will work if you wire the shore and generator outputs to it, then run the ATS output to the Multiplus AC IN. The optimal setup would use a Victron Quattro II which eliminates the ATS all together since it has dual AC inputs and remote automation. Here's a referral link if you want to check it out further rvwithtito.com/victron-quattro2. Is this the inverter you were referring to?
Yea, I got a trailer with a solar panel, inverter (2000w), a Onan 4400 generator & 30A shore power. No outlets work from the inverter so I'm guessing that isn't tied to the ATS if there is one. Just the genny & shore because I can use outlets on either of those, none work from the battery load. So, can I get a better ATS to include the inverter & draw power from the batteries to inverter to main panel & get power to outlets from the DC batteries?
This works great for 30 amps. Is there a 50-amp version that functions so that the inverter kicks off when you're connected to shore power? I see where Go Power has a 50-amp system, but I don't see the charging pigtail with it.
Another great video Brian - A great future install if I get to it. I did some checking on Amazon and found a Thor brand 30 amp transfer switch for only $80 but it's not prewired. It looks exactly like the one you just installed from Go Power or was it Progressive Dynamics? LOL
They are all pretty much the same I think with some tweaks added for the charger.
The prewired version is way overpriced. Also the charger connection is very easy to impliment it just wires into the shore power portion of the switch. Not worth paying 300 more for the prewired version lol. We Love the channel!!!
'When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace' Jimi Hendrix
Thanks! Great video. Alternatively, couldn’t you wire the converter up to its own breaker and back feed the panel with the inverter and just switch that breaker off when you’re not on shore power?
Brian I don’t know if you can answer this. I have a 50 amp shore power, 4000 watt single phase generator now. I am wanting to add a victron dual phase inverter charger. I have a transfer switch. How can I wire all three and make them work together? Thank you for all you do!
hey TITO, @4:45 what if my 1200 watts solar is going through charge controller then to inverter; can't the inverter go into PD4575 charger/converter also? not planning on shore power much at all. but i definitely want to use the 4-stage charger on the PD4575. you said not good for battery to charge battery but what about when they are getting solar charging like i explained? THX!
How does your transfer switch tie into your inverter? My inverter has just the port for battery so I'm wondering if I need to get a different inverter or how I can connect to a transfer switch.
Woodworker too?
Thank you for another great video! Question. How quick is the switch? Do you have to reset clocks and such? Any devices suffer from quick loss of power? Tv stay on ect? Thank you in advance.
I think there's a slight delay, but you don't lose power. Once it switches, it switches quickly. I'm going by memory because I haven't been on shore power for over 6 months :)
@@RVwithTito thanks for the reply. I received my ts-30 yesterday and will install it tomorrow. The delay if there is one is not a big deal im just concerned it will hurt sensitive equipment that is in operation when generator runs out of gas and change is made. If its less than a second ac and tv should be ok.....p.s. jealous about not being on shore power for over 6 months. I would think that means your enjoying yourself.
Hello Tito, one question and it may not has to do with your subject, but here we go. (50 amps) When I have my generator running with air conditioners on and I plug in my shore power at the campground, does my transfer switch should take over and switch to shore power? is 40 sec a standard on the transfer switch? I ask this, because when I plug in to shore power and I turn of the generators, by A/C's go off and I have to wait till the safety time turn them back on. I think i have to wait for the time to count down for the shore connection to take over. I think I am turning the Gen to soon. I hope I am making sense here. Great video as always!!!
I have a 5th wheel with the generator install package wired to the front compartment where the generator would be. Can't I just connect both the transfer switch and inverter through that wiring to go into the main electrical panel?
I enjoy all your videos. Your work is outstanding, explanations are clear. Thanks. My question: how come you installed the transfer switch flat? I was always told and read that a transfer switch can be installed in any position EXCEPT flat, for security reasons.
Safe travel.
I just put it where the previous transfer switch was. What could you tell us about the security concern? Thanks.
While troubleshooting a Magnum 3112 with a failed breaker switch, one of the 2 switches had burned because the coach vibration led to the 'off duty switch' to fall flat and short circuit. Still can't figure out why, but it was 8 years old...?
While looking over videos on TH-cam, seems some manufacturers do not recommend mounting flat, probably for that same safety reason.
Manufacturer install manual probably is the reference if the product is well documented, which is not always the case with some Asian products.
I especially enjoyed your video on the Lithium batteries/ bracket. Will build something similar. Very cool !
Safe travel.
Great video as usual, Brian. Thank you. I'm curious: Just what is the reason for the 20-40 sec delay built in to the transfer system? And why isn't the charger output line benefitting from it? If it's a power stability delay, then isn't there a chance "unstable" power is immediately being sent to the charging system before the "clunk"? Curious minds...
It probably is a stability delay. The charger is wired to the shore power input on the incoming side of the relay. If it were on the output side then it would also turn on when switched to the inverter which defeats the purpose. Hope that helps.
@@RVwithTito Thought so. Thanks, Brian. One more reason to have some power monitoring/protection on the input side of the RV's electronics. Dirty shore power would head straight to the charger.
Brian, we in the PNW as well and I often see your great locations down near the Columbia river. Can you share where some of these sites are?
The best spot we stay along the Columbia is on either side of the John Day Dam. Both owned by the Army Corps.
Tito, Thanks for your video. I have a question, can I use my solar system (Bluetti 200max) as a main source, and when my bluetti is off, transfer automatically to The RV park shore poweer ?? thanks
Sure. Just wire the Bluetti AC output cord to the generator input on the ATS. That should make the Bluetti take priority.
Does the "Delay" of the switch back feed the inverter? Is there away to make it not "Delay". Thanks
So can you use this transfer in conjunction with my 50 amp shore power transfer switch and use inverter for 30 amp solar around it
Brian, nice job! Just to be sure, is the 15 amp fuse located in the transfer switch box connected to the output to the AC breaker panel or to the converter/charger?
It's on the main DC panel connected to batteries.
Does the shore power also just go straight to the AC panel plus splitting off to the transfer switch?
Very helpful, thank you. Curious what size inverter you’re using Tito?
2000 watt pure sine
With all you have added, how does it effect your payload capacity of your RV?
It's reduced actually. Lots of stuff removed, and a few things added.
Brian, did this replace the electronic breaker set up in your 2017 video?
Yes. That relay is gone.
Brian, thanks for the great video, I have an 08 Winnebago. my tv outlet runs off the inverter and when connected to shore power it runs from ac, I didn't understand how it worked but thanks to your video I have a better understanding of it. I just installed an electric fireplace that the tv is now mounted to the top of can I plug the fireplace into this outlet or should I run a dedicated line from the breaker box?
You'll need to know the rated AC current (in amps) of the fireplace and everything else on that circuit. Make sure the electrical wire and circuit breaker on that circuit is adequate.
Thank you! Great video! In your application, you have the shore power wired to the normally open?
Great video! Quick question: how does this affect the 12VDC outputs connected to the converter? This is my understanding at this point - When shore power is connected, the converter is powered, which would covert the 120VAC shore power to 12VDC through the converter to power the devices (as well as charge the batteries). When inverter power is connected, the converter is NOT powered, so the 12VDC outputs are being powered from the batteries. Is this correct?
Yes, exactly. The converter and batteries are both connected to the 12V distribution panel. Whichever one is providing the higher voltage ends up providing the power. So when the converter is off, all power is coming from the batteries. When the convert is on and charging, then the it's also powering the DC panel.
Noobie here, so I'm reading all questions and answers...
If I understood correctly (not very probable), the inverter changes the 12v DC to 120v and this new switch chooses between shore power and the 120v coming from the inverter to supply power to all 120 devices in the rv.
My question is when the switch senses 120v coming from the shore power cable, besides the fact it provides 120v to all outlets and to the battery charger, the inverter then changes power from 120v AC to 12v DC so all 12c stuff isn't powered by the batteries?
Phew, I hope it makes sense!
@@RVwithTito I tried shutting off my converter at the CB and had no 12v lights and all
I have an inverter charger with the transfer switch Built-in I don't think I need one of those what do you think
Can I do this application for my party bus?
I did away with the original AC units because they don’t keep the bus cool in Texas. I installed 2 Coleman Rv rooftop units. I’ve already installed the generator and it run perfect but how do I power my AC’s while driving the bus because I can’t run a generator while running the bus. It’s a blue bird school bus