I am a retired engineer with experience in design, operation and maintenance of dust collection systems. The point in this video that needs to be emphasized is a duct that is too large for the air flow will actually cause dust to collect in the duct and reduced dust collection at the source. Good presentation.
Agree. The design brief seems to be optimizing air volume and velocity given the constraints of the HP your DC produces and the distances, turns, number of drops, etc. your shop layout requires.
I'm counting on this reverse venturi affect. I'm going to attempt to collect most of the waste at the source simply by running the line past or through a large volume to reject the heavier stuff.
So I'll throw my two cents in. I, just like many of us start off by buying TS, jointer, planer and maybe a bandsaw. Dust collection is an after thought. I ended up using a delta 1.5 HP with a after market canister filter and plastic bag. I used that set up for the better part of 11 years. What I loathed about this setup was the moving of the hose from tool to tool. Not to mention having to walk over the hose laying on the ground day in and day out. If I had to guess, I bet I twisted my ankle on that house a couple dozen times. Fast forward a couple years ago. Jason made a video on the Harvey G700, It was what I was looking for. Wall space is more important to me ( 22'x20' shop) , and the design of the G700 having a more horizontal footprint was the final straw. I pulled the trigger. I was stilling using 4" x 24' flex hose I was dragging around the shop just like before. I am fortunate enough to have visited Jason's shop and see first hand the Nordfab DC pipe. Jason explained to how each piece fits together with the clamp and O-rings. Easy to assemble and disassemble. Jason put me in touch with jay and we got the ball rolling. a few quick sketches of my shop and tool placement, Jay emailed a suggested layout, we tweaked a few items and BAM! DONE! Jay was very knowledgeable and I believe genuinely concerned that I was satisfied with the results. In June of this year, Jason and I installed my whole Nordfab DC pipe in just under 2 hours. I have since then tweaked it once, I moved my tool island (J/P, TS and BS) around a bit. I have a far superior DC than I had before. I no longer step over DC hose, it was not cheap BUT I'll end this comment by saying, " Price is what you pay. Value is what you get." Warren Buffet.
I’m working on version 1 million of dust collection in my shop. Not many people can start at your level (as you’ve stated), so a good entry level recommendation is Rockler’s Dust Right system. A key, crucial part of dust collection should be stated - it’s not just for cleanliness in your shop … it’s for your health. You do not want the dust created by any device in your lungs!
Great video. I have a Norfab competitor product that is a clamp-together system and I also paid more for the duct work than I did for my Felder RL160. The number of times I had to take sections apart and reroute them when I was initially installing the duct work made me give myself high-fives constantly for deciding on clamp-together. I do not regret for a second going with this option...if I had gone any other route I may still not have my system installed.
Thank you for your candor regarding the need/efficiency/ cost of your system. Too often you tubers don't address the fact that each system must meet the needs of the end user.
Your videos are awesome and so helpful. Thank you for all the work you put into them. I am looking for the video you reference at minute 4:30- the filter cleanout modification. I cannot find that video anywhere. Looking to do the same thing on my Harvey and would love to learn about how you put that together.
If you happen to live in an area with industrial or aerospace manufacturing, get in touch with the salvage materials person (this takes a bit of work, but you'll come away with good material even if it's hit and miss for several months). I landed a major score on Nordfab ducting that came on two pallets for $200, all sizes from 6-8" with clamps, bends, reducers, even some LocLine bendies and hoods. More than I'd ever need (it was torn out from a machine shop that was moving locations). The bonus, other than driving there to get it, was that it was basically free as I went there to pick up 17 rolls of stainless steel and it happened to be there. I asked what they were doing with it, and it was going to be scrapped. Yoink! It wasn't until I got into CNC work the following year that I found out what the ducting was actually for, as I initially used it to put several pieces into my foundry furnace for blower ducting. Normally I'm not this lucky, but this is one particular instance where I was blessed to have won the scrap lottery.
Respect for sharing your experience! It’s great to hear it’s the ancillaries that are sometimes a bigger and better investment than the machine to power it! For someone just starting out trying to install dust collection it’s great to see these kind of videos! Thank you!
WOW... I am in the market for a full dust collection pipe set up. I have the Grizzly G0862 3HP Dust Collector and now I need the piping. Based on your comment, i checked out the Blastgate Company's website. Their prices are really reasonable.
Been in this WWing business for many years, all I got to say is venting my cyclone outside, best thing I ever did, 8" metal spiral for the first 8' then 7" to 6" then to some 5" closest to tools. I have a very old 3HP Onieda cyclone, this is the cleanest my shops have ever been with the strongest air movement...
I just installed my ducting. Probably overthought the whole process. Ended up calculating the sp loss per run to make sure I had enough suction. I thought about nordfab but went with spiral ducting instead. Alot more work to install but probably 1/4 the cost. One tip I have is go and get an electric anemometer and measure BOTH the cfm and fpm you have at the tool end. Different tools require different cfms. TS needs around 350 while a 15" - 20" needs 785. Also you need 3500 fpm to keep dust airborne.
Nice shop. Good video. My skills and budget don’t support a $6k dust collection system, but it sure looks good! I bought a 2hp blower, a big 6 inch cyclone, and 6 inch PVC. I’m pleased with the results and I’m done at about $1500
@@bentswoodworking Your comment that Norfab (or competitor's clamp-together systems) is not for everyone is true. For me though, I am getting a little "long in the tooth" and I know that my current shop is my last shop so I bit the bullet and went with clamp-together. The amount of tools I could have bought instead of ducting is something almost to cry about but I don't regret the purchase. Funny thing...I have non-woodworkers come into my shop and remark on the "cool steam piping" I have without ever asking why I would need steam!
I use a Harbor freight dust collector, (which i was told not to buy because it was junk and not strong enough) got my pipe at a HVAC company that worked with me a 6 inch cyclone but use 5 inch pipe and for about $600 i have a pretty nice system and because i have a 2 story barn i run the dust collector upstairs so its quite and vent it out the window upstairs so i don't have the cost of changing filters. I have been using this system for 4 yrs with no problems so it works for me.
I love the update on your system. While watching, I find myself a bit jealous; not with the NordFab (sp?) system, but rather I am jealous of the space to be able to use the system. I have the same dust collection, but I am limited to the flex hose system. One day...maybe one day I can have the room to be able to upgrade to that system. Keep it up! Thanks, Bent.
Just watched your video, that ductwork looks excellent. I am so tired of sweeping up the mess I get in my shop with an inadequate dust collection system. I have 4" PVC I did not tape up the joints and they always leak. I will contact Nordfab next week and see what they can do for me. Thanks
What is the very first piece in your ducting that slides directly onto the gyro's collection port? Today I received all of my ducting but the connection adapter to the gyro is wrong. Any help would be much appreciated.
Conduits is all about your budget. Ans yes Nordfab is the Festool of conduits. I *love* your setup no hate 🤣 and wish I could afford Nordfab and the Harvey dust processor together. Well done 👍
Nordfab reps came to my shop, measured the location, type, and details of the tools I have, made a 3D rendering and gave me a purchase list. It’s not cheap, but the work, engineering and well thought out process makes it a no brainer when it comes to layout, performance and effectiveness of the dust collection
I use my G-700 in my 20x24 shop with just a flex hose and it does a fantastic job. I would love to have hard plumbed dust collection but I don't even know what my final layout will be, let alone have the money to prioritize it yet though. And nordfab? Maybe in a decade, lol.
Excellent video Jason! You mention a video regarding the modification you made for the clean of the filters (time mark 4:32). Can you post the video? I searched your site but could not locate it. Keep up the great videos!
Jason, I have the Harvey 700. With the position of your dust collector, how do you reach the main disconnect switch on the back? Or do you have a switch or do you use the breaker? Thanks.
While not s quick to put together as nordfab, Spiral ducting is a great alternative. I had a local custom sheet metal shop fabricate all my spiral duct and fittings for a fraction of the price of nordfab. In my 30x50 shop i have a 5hp collector with 10" to 8" main line with five 6" drops and only paid $1500 for all welded fittings and pipe.
I am very tempted to get in touch about the ductwork, although I'm unsure what I need. I've been very frustrated with getting any reasonable 6" ducts. The concern is how much things change every few months as need and equipment change. I've been working very slowly with setting up a system for controlling everything with custom wifi computer controlled iVac blast gates. I had circuit boards printed for the systems but I wasn't extremely happy with what I had. I want to be able to combine the control of the gates on each location and with intermediates gates and with control over the dust collector and detection of machines turning on. You can accomplish the basics of what I want with the tools iVac sells. If nothing else, I want to make sure I don't run a tool with two blast gates open. I find I can't detect this well enough with hearing protection on.
Mark, I was never in 101. I am a huge fan of band of brothers and WW2 history in general. On one of my visits to Bastogne I found this signed picture in one of the shops and had to have it. 👍
Can you post a link to video of how you combined the 2 ports on cleaning the filters out. I have the same machine trying to connect them both together like you did.
Getting ready to do a full duct work system with the g 700 and would like to connect those 2 filter ports and put wye right off the inlet like you did for cleaning them. Great video thank you.
How are the blast gates on the Nordfab? I’m tired of leaky blast gates. I’m in a shop that also contains my home’s furnace so dust control is always top of mind.
I have the same G 700 starting to install duct work. Does going from a 6in to a single 4in put too much back pressure on the G700? As for just an area calculation the 6in is larger than 2 ea 4in. I don't want to harm my unit.
I can’t help much with that. This is one of the biggest benefits to going through a design specialist. They will be able to calculate everything for you based on your machine specifications
I just watched your video. It was very informative. I have a question. I see that you have the Tso products parallel guides hanging on your wall. How did you accomplish that?
Thanks for the great video Jason. I currently have a 22 by 22 shop and am in the process of planning a new 18 x 30 shop. The new shop will have a garden room below it, so i am contemplating whether to run the duct work overhead in the shop or run it in the garden room and come up under the floor. Any thoughts? Perhaps Jay can advise. I will definitely be using NORDFAB so sounds like Jay would be great resource. Thanks again for all that you share via your channel.
@@bentswoodworking a quick follow-up Jason, I did reach out to Jay and am beginning layout and design of the dust collection for my new shop. Jay has been fantastic to work with and far exceeded my expectation. Thanks again for your video and sharing the contact information for Jay. i appreciate all you do for the woodworking community.
Other option is to put a cheap in line separator right before it to collect the bulk of the fluffy shavings while planing and extends the run time without having to stop to empty the G700 half as often.
@@delphi8333 That would pretty much evaporate the whole reason I went with the G700. My ductwork is connected almost identical to Jason's and there's no space for an additional pre-separation before the material enters the unit to be...separated in to coarse, medium coarse and fines by the G700's design.
The metal duct is sweet, but way out of my budget. I built mine with SDR 35 much the same as you... a 6" main from the collector up to the ceiling (w/45 degree elbows), across to the center of my shop where it splits into 2 4" with a Y-adapter. One side goes to my miter saw and the other runs down the lally column and spits off with 4 more 4" Y-adapters... one for my table saw (4"), one for my router table (Y-adapter dual 2.5" - dust box and fence) one to my band saw & drill press table (Y-adapter dual 2.5" - one to each) and the last is a port for hooking up a shop vac hose for general cleanup duties. The line then runs down to the ground to a floor sweep with its own blast gate. Each 4" Y-adapter on the column has a blast gate. Running the 6" main to the center of the shop, then splitting it off into two 4" sub-mains seems to work well for me and keeps the run as short as possible. My longest run to a tool is
I am actually surprised the machine can suck through all that ducting. The numbers one it are fairly low compared to a traditional cyclone. I am on the fence regarding which one to go with V3000 vs Harvey 700
@@TERHUNE_METHOD I am seeing a lot of mixed reviews. Some people have sold the 700 and upgraded to an Oneida. Others seem happy with it. Bent has modified his for easier cleaning (seems like a negative if you need to modify a product ) ?
@@cygnusa3772 no NEED to modify. It is just more convenient to do what Jason has done. for noise and size it is superior. I would say there’s probably not a universal way to do what Jason has done. But in each case there are different ways to do it that works better. For instance, in my situation, I will probably hard pipe out from those connections and not use the flexible pipe. The biggest thing for me is that I don’t have to take a filter outside and tap it out or blow it out or vacuum it out or do anything else all of it is kept internal other than taking out the sawdust. No matter how careful you are with the cyclone units you’re going to have dust that you need to cycle through in the air . With the Harvey, you don’t have to worry about that. Also, there is the bigger unit made by Harvey. Anyway, I hope it helps.
@@allmywdwrk gotcha. Yes he does say he will stop short. Just an assumption on my part, and Jason can certainly answer for himself, but it seems to me that having a flexible piece is good for when you want to clean out the base of the tablesaw, or if you decide to roll your tablesaw out of the way, it’s a lot easier to undo the short piece of flexible hose. And if you use a short piece of flexible hose it really doesn’t change your calculation on the effective suction.
Jason, I always enjoy your videos. Great content as usual. I have to confess I was admiring your prints on the wall. One appears to be a representation of the 101st at Bastogne. My dad was a medic in the 82nd during WWII so it clearly piqued my interest The second also interesting. Do you mind sharing the print names and artists?
Whoa oh I want a new duct One that won't try to bite One that won't chew a hole in my socks One that won't quack all night I want a new duct One with big webbed feet One that knows how to wash my car And keep his room real neat One that won't raid the ice box One that'll stay in shape One that's never gonna try to migrate or escape Or I'll tie him up with duct tape I want a new duct A mallard I think One that won't make a mess of my house Or build a nest in the bathroom sink I want a new duct One that won't steal my beer One that won't stick his bill in my mail One that knows the duct stops here One that won't drive me crazy waddling all around One who'll teach me how to swim and help me not to drown And show me how to get down How to get down baby Get it? I want a new duct Not a swan or a goose Just a drake I can dress real cute Think I'm gonna name him Bruce I want a new duct Not a quail or an owl One that won't molt to much One that won't smell too fowl One that won't beg for breadcrumbs Hangin' around all day He'd better mind his manners Better do just what I say Or he's gonna be duct patte, duct patte, yah, yah
I am a retired engineer with experience in design, operation and maintenance of dust collection systems. The point in this video that needs to be emphasized is a duct that is too large for the air flow will actually cause dust to collect in the duct and reduced dust collection at the source. Good presentation.
Agree. The design brief seems to be optimizing air volume and velocity given the constraints of the HP your DC produces and the distances, turns, number of drops, etc. your shop layout requires.
I'm counting on this reverse venturi affect. I'm going to attempt to collect most of the waste at the source simply by running the line past or through a large volume to reject the heavier stuff.
So I'll throw my two cents in. I, just like many of us start off by buying TS, jointer, planer and maybe a bandsaw. Dust collection is an after thought. I ended up using a delta 1.5 HP with a after market canister filter and plastic bag. I used that set up for the better part of 11 years. What I loathed about this setup was the moving of the hose from tool to tool. Not to mention having to walk over the hose laying on the ground day in and day out. If I had to guess, I bet I twisted my ankle on that house a couple dozen times.
Fast forward a couple years ago. Jason made a video on the Harvey G700, It was what I was looking for. Wall space is more important to me ( 22'x20' shop) , and the design of the G700 having a more horizontal footprint was the final straw. I pulled the trigger. I was stilling using 4" x 24' flex hose I was dragging around the shop just like before. I am fortunate enough to have visited Jason's shop and see first hand the Nordfab DC pipe. Jason explained to how each piece fits together with the clamp and O-rings. Easy to assemble and disassemble. Jason put me in touch with jay and we got the ball rolling. a few quick sketches of my shop and tool placement, Jay emailed a suggested layout, we tweaked a few items and BAM! DONE! Jay was very knowledgeable and I believe genuinely concerned that I was satisfied with the results. In June of this year, Jason and I installed my whole Nordfab DC pipe in just under 2 hours. I have since then tweaked it once, I moved my tool island (J/P, TS and BS) around a bit. I have a far superior DC than I had before. I no longer step over DC hose, it was not cheap BUT I'll end this comment by saying, " Price is what you pay. Value is what you get." Warren Buffet.
👊🏼👊🏼
I’m working on version 1 million of dust collection in my shop. Not many people can start at your level (as you’ve stated), so a good entry level recommendation is Rockler’s Dust Right system.
A key, crucial part of dust collection should be stated - it’s not just for cleanliness in your shop … it’s for your health. You do not want the dust created by any device in your lungs!
Great video. I have a Norfab competitor product that is a clamp-together system and I also paid more for the duct work than I did for my Felder RL160. The number of times I had to take sections apart and reroute them when I was initially installing the duct work made me give myself high-fives constantly for deciding on clamp-together. I do not regret for a second going with this option...if I had gone any other route I may still not have my system installed.
A purchase I will never regret.
Thank you for your candor regarding the need/efficiency/ cost of your system. Too often you tubers don't address the fact that each system must meet the needs of the end user.
Your videos are awesome and so helpful. Thank you for all the work you put into them. I am looking for the video you reference at minute 4:30- the filter cleanout modification. I cannot find that video anywhere. Looking to do the same thing on my Harvey and would love to learn about how you put that together.
If you happen to live in an area with industrial or aerospace manufacturing, get in touch with the salvage materials person (this takes a bit of work, but you'll come away with good material even if it's hit and miss for several months). I landed a major score on Nordfab ducting that came on two pallets for $200, all sizes from 6-8" with clamps, bends, reducers, even some LocLine bendies and hoods. More than I'd ever need (it was torn out from a machine shop that was moving locations). The bonus, other than driving there to get it, was that it was basically free as I went there to pick up 17 rolls of stainless steel and it happened to be there. I asked what they were doing with it, and it was going to be scrapped. Yoink! It wasn't until I got into CNC work the following year that I found out what the ducting was actually for, as I initially used it to put several pieces into my foundry furnace for blower ducting.
Normally I'm not this lucky, but this is one particular instance where I was blessed to have won the scrap lottery.
Respect for sharing your experience! It’s great to hear it’s the ancillaries that are sometimes a bigger and better investment than the machine to power it! For someone just starting out trying to install dust collection it’s great to see these kind of videos! Thank you!
You’re welcome
The Blastgate Company sells Nordfab-compatible ductwork for a reasonable price. I've bought from them twice and they are great to deal with.
WOW... I am in the market for a full dust collection pipe set up. I have the Grizzly G0862 3HP Dust Collector and now I need the piping. Based on your comment, i checked out the Blastgate Company's website. Their prices are really reasonable.
Been in this WWing business for many years, all I got to say is venting my cyclone outside, best thing I ever did, 8" metal spiral for the first 8' then 7" to 6" then to some 5" closest to tools. I have a very old 3HP Onieda cyclone, this is the cleanest my shops have ever been with the strongest air movement...
I just installed my ducting. Probably overthought the whole process. Ended up calculating the sp loss per run to make sure I had enough suction. I thought about nordfab but went with spiral ducting instead. Alot more work to install but probably 1/4 the cost. One tip I have is go and get an electric anemometer and measure BOTH the cfm and fpm you have at the tool end. Different tools require different cfms. TS needs around 350 while a 15" - 20" needs 785. Also you need 3500 fpm to keep dust airborne.
I truly appreciate your honesty and transparency in all the videos you share. Many thanks. I already emailed Jay to get started.
Nice!!
Nice shop. Good video. My skills and budget don’t support a $6k dust collection system, but it sure looks good! I bought a 2hp blower, a big 6 inch cyclone, and 6 inch PVC. I’m pleased with the results and I’m done at about $1500
If it works for you that’s all that matters. NORDFAB definitely isn’t for everyone. I’ll be the first to admit that.
@@bentswoodworking Your comment that Norfab (or competitor's clamp-together systems) is not for everyone is true. For me though, I am getting a little "long in the tooth" and I know that my current shop is my last shop so I bit the bullet and went with clamp-together. The amount of tools I could have bought instead of ducting is something almost to cry about but I don't regret the purchase. Funny thing...I have non-woodworkers come into my shop and remark on the "cool steam piping" I have without ever asking why I would need steam!
Great video Jason. I really like how that duct clamps together and the cleanness of the overall installation. Nice job!!!
Thanks!
I use a Harbor freight dust collector, (which i was told not to buy because it was junk and not strong enough) got my pipe at a HVAC company that worked with me a 6 inch cyclone but use 5 inch pipe and for about $600 i have a pretty nice system and because i have a 2 story barn i run the dust collector upstairs so its quite and vent it out the window upstairs so i don't have the cost of changing filters.
I have been using this system for 4 yrs with no problems so it works for me.
I love the update on your system. While watching, I find myself a bit jealous; not with the NordFab (sp?) system, but rather I am jealous of the space to be able to use the system. I have the same dust collection, but I am limited to the flex hose system. One day...maybe one day I can have the room to be able to upgrade to that system. Keep it up! Thanks, Bent.
Just watched your video, that ductwork looks excellent. I am so tired of sweeping up the mess I get in my shop with an inadequate dust collection system. I have 4" PVC I did not tape up the joints and they always leak. I will contact Nordfab next week and see what they can do for me.
Thanks
What is the very first piece in your ducting that slides directly onto the gyro's collection port? Today I received all of my ducting but the connection adapter to the gyro is wrong. Any help would be much appreciated.
Conduits is all about your budget. Ans yes Nordfab is the Festool of conduits. I *love* your setup no hate 🤣 and wish I could afford Nordfab and the Harvey dust processor together. Well done 👍
Nordfab reps came to my shop, measured the location, type, and details of the tools I have, made a 3D rendering and gave me a purchase list. It’s not cheap, but the work, engineering and well thought out process makes it a no brainer when it comes to layout, performance and effectiveness of the dust collection
Agreed!!
I use my G-700 in my 20x24 shop with just a flex hose and it does a fantastic job. I would love to have hard plumbed dust collection but I don't even know what my final layout will be, let alone have the money to prioritize it yet though. And nordfab? Maybe in a decade, lol.
Excellent video Jason! You mention a video regarding the modification you made for the clean of the filters (time mark 4:32). Can you post the video? I searched your site but could not locate it. Keep up the great videos!
I finally located it -- my bad!😀
Jason, I have the Harvey 700. With the position of your dust collector, how do you reach the main disconnect switch on the back? Or do you have a switch or do you use the breaker? Thanks.
If I needed to get to it I would unclamp the duct and slide the machine out. But I never turn the switch off
@@bentswoodworking thanks, Jason. I did not know it was “okay” to leave it on. This gives me tons more options!
While not s quick to put together as nordfab, Spiral ducting is a great alternative. I had a local custom sheet metal shop fabricate all my spiral duct and fittings for a fraction of the price of nordfab. In my 30x50 shop i have a 5hp collector with 10" to 8" main line with five 6" drops and only paid $1500 for all welded fittings and pipe.
How do you attach everything together? It welded in place!?
I worked at a heating & air using ductwork so I agree on air movement
Noticed your storage solution for the TSO track guides rails in the background. Mind sharing what it is and where to get it?
A friend of mine 3D printed them. Not sure if he is currently selling them
I am very tempted to get in touch about the ductwork, although I'm unsure what I need. I've been very frustrated with getting any reasonable 6" ducts. The concern is how much things change every few months as need and equipment change.
I've been working very slowly with setting up a system for controlling everything with custom wifi computer controlled iVac blast gates. I had circuit boards printed for the systems but I wasn't extremely happy with what I had. I want to be able to combine the control of the gates on each location and with intermediates gates and with control over the dust collector and detection of machines turning on. You can accomplish the basics of what I want with the tools iVac sells. If nothing else, I want to make sure I don't run a tool with two blast gates open. I find I can't detect this well enough with hearing protection on.
I see the 101st / Bastogne picture you have framed of your 2 car garage door, which Battalion were you with? No Slack here :)
Mark, I was never in 101. I am a huge fan of band of brothers and WW2 history in general. On one of my visits to Bastogne I found this signed picture in one of the shops and had to have it. 👍
@@bentswoodworking That's incredible. My Grandfather was a member of that unit.
Can you post a link to video of how you combined the 2 ports on cleaning the filters out. I have the same machine trying to connect them both together like you did.
Getting ready to do a full duct work system with the g 700 and would like to connect those 2 filter ports and put wye right off the inlet like you did for cleaning them. Great video thank you.
How are the blast gates on the Nordfab? I’m tired of leaky blast gates. I’m in a shop that also contains my home’s furnace so dust control is always top of mind.
Don't forget the reduced noise coming out of the Harvey.
I have the same G 700 starting to install duct work. Does going from a 6in to a single 4in put too much back pressure on the G700? As for just an area calculation the 6in is larger than 2 ea 4in. I don't want to harm my unit.
I can’t help much with that. This is one of the biggest benefits to going through a design specialist. They will be able to calculate everything for you based on your machine specifications
what do you think about running 6" PVC instead of metal tube? A lot less expensive but is there a downside?
I just watched your video. It was very informative. I have a question. I see that you have the Tso products parallel guides hanging on your wall. How did you accomplish that?
A friends of mine 3D printed some holders.
What an excellent video. Thank you for this information it was very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
At the CNC hook up, how do you open or close the blast gate? Seems high.
With my push stick. Very easy
How do you like that epoxy floor?
Love it
Thanks for the great video Jason. I currently have a 22 by 22 shop and am in the process of planning a new 18 x 30 shop. The new shop will have a garden room below it, so i am contemplating whether to run the duct work overhead in the shop or run it in the garden room and come up under the floor. Any thoughts? Perhaps Jay can advise. I will definitely be using NORDFAB so sounds like Jay would be great resource. Thanks again for all that you share via your channel.
Definitely reach out to him cause he will be able to help you out and come up with the best solution. Jay is excellent
@@bentswoodworking Many thanks Jason, i really enjoyed your videos on the Harvey dust processor, looks like a great machine!
@@bentswoodworking a quick follow-up Jason, I did reach out to Jay and am beginning layout and design of the dust collection for my new shop. Jay has been fantastic to work with and far exceeded my expectation. Thanks again for your video and sharing the contact information for Jay. i appreciate all you do for the woodworking community.
have you removed the grid from the inlet of your G700? I'm serious considering doing that because of "fluffy" shavings from the J/P getting caught up.
Other option is to put a cheap in line separator right before it to collect the bulk of the fluffy shavings while planing and extends the run time without having to stop to empty the G700 half as often.
@@delphi8333 That would pretty much evaporate the whole reason I went with the G700. My ductwork is connected almost identical to Jason's and there's no space for an additional pre-separation before the material enters the unit to be...separated in to coarse, medium coarse and fines by the G700's design.
@@jimbecker5675 then in that case, not much choice but remove the grate, as long as nothing too big hits the impeller, it should be ok
“It’s an absolute dream to work with”, that’s the truth brother! Harvey/Nordfab for the win!😉
Excellent timing and I’ve sent him a contact. Thanks for the continued production of great content!
The metal duct is sweet, but way out of my budget.
I built mine with SDR 35 much the same as you... a 6" main from the collector up to the ceiling (w/45 degree elbows), across to the center of my shop where it splits into 2 4" with a Y-adapter. One side goes to my miter saw and the other runs down the lally column and spits off with 4 more 4" Y-adapters... one for my table saw (4"), one for my router table (Y-adapter dual 2.5" - dust box and fence) one to my band saw & drill press table (Y-adapter dual 2.5" - one to each) and the last is a port for hooking up a shop vac hose for general cleanup duties. The line then runs down to the ground to a floor sweep with its own blast gate. Each 4" Y-adapter on the column has a blast gate.
Running the 6" main to the center of the shop, then splitting it off into two 4" sub-mains seems to work well for me and keeps the run as short as possible. My longest run to a tool is
Brilliant information
Ha ha, he said duck work. Thanks for the video.
I am actually surprised the machine can suck through all that ducting. The numbers one it are fairly low compared to a traditional cyclone. I am on the fence regarding which one to go with V3000 vs Harvey 700
Don't forget the harvey 800
The Harvey is awesome
@@hewittgordon8843 At almost twice the price of a V3000 it better be amazing.
@@TERHUNE_METHOD I am seeing a lot of mixed reviews. Some people have sold the 700 and upgraded to an Oneida. Others seem happy with it. Bent has modified his for easier cleaning (seems like a negative if you need to modify a product ) ?
@@cygnusa3772 no NEED to modify. It is just more convenient to do what Jason has done.
for noise and size it is superior. I would say there’s probably not a universal way to do what Jason has done. But in each case there are different ways to do it that works better. For instance, in my situation, I will probably hard pipe out from those connections and not use the flexible pipe.
The biggest thing for me is that I don’t have to take a filter outside and tap it out or blow it out or vacuum it out or do anything else all of it is kept internal other than taking out the sawdust. No matter how careful you are with the cyclone units you’re going to have dust that you need to cycle through in the air . With the Harvey, you don’t have to worry about that. Also, there is the bigger unit made by Harvey. Anyway, I hope it helps.
,a cool video keep up the great content.. Thank you……
Coast Guard= best service. :)
🤦🏼♂️🤣
Is your dust collector 110 or 220
It is 220v and 20a.
220
Why not run the ridged ductwork all the way to the table saw ?
He notes his plan to do so at 7:07
@@TERHUNE_METHOD No, he says “Just short of the table saw”
@@allmywdwrk gotcha. Yes he does say he will stop short. Just an assumption on my part, and Jason can certainly answer for himself, but it seems to me that having a flexible piece is good for when you want to clean out the base of the tablesaw, or if you decide to roll your tablesaw out of the way, it’s a lot easier to undo the short piece of flexible hose. And if you use a short piece of flexible hose it really doesn’t change your calculation on the effective suction.
Did ya move out of Indiana?
Jason, I always enjoy your videos. Great content as usual. I have to confess I was admiring your prints on the wall. One appears to be a representation of the 101st at Bastogne. My dad was a medic in the 82nd during WWII so it clearly piqued my interest The second also interesting. Do you mind sharing the print names and artists?
I knew my wife was wrong when she said get a bigger pipe
🤣🤣🤣
All of the hard 90's haven't reduced your efficiency?
Whoa oh
I want a new duct
One that won't try to bite
One that won't chew a hole in my socks
One that won't quack all night
I want a new duct
One with big webbed feet
One that knows how to wash my car
And keep his room real neat
One that won't raid the ice box
One that'll stay in shape
One that's never gonna try to migrate or escape
Or I'll tie him up with duct tape
I want a new duct
A mallard I think
One that won't make a mess of my house
Or build a nest in the bathroom sink
I want a new duct
One that won't steal my beer
One that won't stick his bill in my mail
One that knows the duct stops here
One that won't drive me crazy waddling all around
One who'll teach me how to swim and help me not to drown
And show me how to get down
How to get down baby
Get it?
I want a new duct
Not a swan or a goose
Just a drake I can dress real cute
Think I'm gonna name him Bruce
I want a new duct
Not a quail or an owl
One that won't molt to much
One that won't smell too fowl
One that won't beg for breadcrumbs
Hangin' around all day
He'd better mind his manners
Better do just what I say
Or he's gonna be duct patte, duct patte, yah, yah
Yahhhh buddy!🤟🏻
👍
Why can't you just use 4" drain PVC pipe?
You can
i thought hard 90's were seriously frowned upon?
Too many 90s are a problem. But, if your calculated drag is less than the acceptable loss it does not matter
He emphatically stated 6 inch 90's which are compatible with the long sweep in pvc.
First
Buy once. Cry once.
Had the luxury of putting it under the slab when I built my shop, no problems and ultra quiet.👍📐🇨🇦