I plan to transition from occasional DIY projects to woodworking. I currently live in an apartment while a new home that will include a small woodworking shop is being planned and then built. My wife noticed how obsessed I have been in planning, from things like dust control, table saws to designing a hand tool workbench, when she commented, "before you get too carried away, check the HOA rules on noise. I did as requested, and found they prohibit emissions over 60 Dba. I did not sleep last night. But finding this excellent video has renewed my spirit and will continue to study the subject. This is a excellent video and is incredibly informative. And I have one advantage - starting from a blank slate.
I've watched this video twice and still learning from each time. A lot of info, but all essential to get to a desired sound-proofing. Thank you so much for the research and the truly informative video.
I think we must have gone down the same rabbit hole at the same time. All your research links are already bookmarked in my sound abatement folder. I agree with your conclusions. I had a bit of a different situation though and thought I would add my two cents for anyone in a basement shop. My shop is in my unfinished basement area. It's about 550 sqft and connects to another 1000 sqft that's finished. The finished area has an open stairwell to the upstairs. I gave up on doing much of anything to stop sound from transmitting into the finished basement other than any path that led to that open stairwell. My focus were the four rooms right above my main shop area. I sealed the backs of all the HVAC registers with spray foam. I did 12" of mineral wool in between the floor joists. I'll pay someone next time. My shoulders were ruined for a couple of days. I didn't expect that to get me all the way there, so I kept going. I have a 9' pour, so I decided to build "floating" panels. My floor joists are on 24" centers. I built 4' x 4' frames. I ripped 2x4's in half to keep the overall thickness down. Each frame got a single sheet of 5/8 drywall cut in half and laminated with green glue. I 3d printed ABS eye hooks with threaded shafts and drilled and tapped holes for them. I used 550 cord inside surgical tubing to hang the panels. I did not tie to the eye hooks. I thread the paracord/surgical tubing combo through both eyehooks and pull only the paracord tight and tie the two ends of only the paracord together. I luckily didn't have any major obstructions hanging lower than the joists. The panels hang with about an inch gap between them and floor joists, so I only lost about four inches total of ceiling space. The panel arrangement of course means some gaps between the panels, but the mineral wool is good enough for anything travelling through. I was also able to reconfigure my lighting to live within the gaps. This has worked extraordinarily well. I can run anything but my jointer, planer, and cnc when my wife is in her office right above me. If she is anywhere else upstairs, I can run anything. You can still hear it, but it's attenuated enough to be background noise. If the dishwasher is running, a tv is on, etc. you must know to listen for it.
I'm glad you are looking at panels for the roof and such so you can reduce resonant noise for yourself in the workspace. If you want to improve the doors more, put a double door in place - one opens in and one opens out. It's common on home theatre's and way better than just a solid core door. The other door items to make sure you employ - a rubber or foam surround to seal the door as it closes. Add a rubber strip or similar weather seal at the base. This prevents sound leakage which can be significant.
@@bentswoodworking Jason, out of curiosity, how do you find the noise of your dust collector? I think it's one of the most efficient (and quiet) at market. How much different would it be for you if you almost had no noise from it? If you like, we can link up to discuss some ways you can achieve that if you think it would be of significant value to you. I mean doing so without (hopefully) needing to move it from under bench location or compromising its performance and health, I would be employing similar principles to what we used to do with small generators; there may be some scope to lessen noise further without moving it. Have a think and let me know.
I'm engineer and I have a lot of experience soundproofing rooms. For a workshop like yours the best solution is to add one or two layers of drywall but using foam adhesive and never using screws. The foam is the damper, and the drywall is the mass. No need more than this. Easy, fast, and clean.
@@Darenator1 You can do some research on TH-cam and see that it is a widely used method of attaching drywall to the wall structure. You will find many videos showing the correct way to do it. I did it many times this way and never had a problem with inspectors of failures. We, the engineers, know about structures and standards.
Better to use a decoupled cleat system for creating a floating wall. Achieves the same while not compromising the structural integrity. Mass dampening is beneficial. Absorption in the wall too which converts energy to heat, and the wall becoming a resonant membrane. The decoupling is about prevention of airborne radiated energy converting to conducted structural vibration which then turns inside walls of the home to resonant membranes (basically speakers). I'm also an engineer and I specialise in Radiated and conducted emissions :P
Thank you for your video. Your information mirrors a fair amount of the information that I had acquired while researching soundproofing some years ago. My issue was an irresponsible neighbor with Yappy dogs. There is a component of sound dampening in regards to decoupling walls with specific isolation fasteners.
Very helpful. Currently, looking at a premises that needs to be completely refurnished for manufacturing and a showroom. Principal machinery is a CNC milling machine, cut-off saws, drill press, horizontal drilling machine, sanders and buffers, and a smallish semi-automatic lathe. And, the one thing that has been the greatest concerned is noise, the premises being sandwiched between a dermatologist and a boutique furniture shop. Buying in few finished components, the financial model for manufacturing is based on 'just in time' for want of a better phrase - making to order and supplying direct to customers. Hence the 'shop window', the need to have a good relationship with neighbours and isolate the noise of the manufacturing area from the showroom/shop front. This information, I am sure, is all out there somewhere but rarely summarised and so clearly and precisely explained by someone who has actually done the job. A comment mentions recessed lighting/electrics. I've settle this by running everything in conduit on the surface to maximise the integrity of the insulated walls and ceilings, and flexibility.
Really thorough walk through. I too went down the rabbit hole and came to the same conclusion. I just never got the sign off from the boss yet. But I'm ready to pull the trigger if she agrees. But I'll go with the MLV in between sheets.
From what I've researched, MLV won't hurt, but MLV being limp is the only way to get its full benefit. And sealed/limp MLV is best (since air movement = sound movement). Also to note, sealed/limp MLV = no air movement, and no air movement = suffocation, so there's that.... Seems like the bang for the buck/effort options are (least to most effective:) adding layers of standard drywall, adding standard drywall with something like Green Glue in between( the regular GG, not the caulk/sealant, that's used between joints only as he did in this video), adding specialized "drywall" or sheetgood type products with membranes embedded between gypsum layers like he used here (or QuietRock, etc.), decoupling using resilient channel and potentially also using the clips (although you can't hang much weight from this option, i.e. pegboard tool walls or lumber), and finally a full-blown room within a room. Be sure to account for heating/cooling/ventilation needs no matter which route you take. I am waist deep in this rabbit hole and still learning, but those are my take-aways so far.....hth!
@@jordanprice5954 Yeah, HVAC ducts are like sound highways. Interesting about MLV needing to be limp. I'll look into that. thanks. Also, I've used some sorbothane (sp?) to quiet a pump for my AC. Worked pretty well. It's pricey though.
@@hansangb not familiar with sorbothane but will check that out. Always interested in what other solutions exist out there. Also, I rewatched this more closely and noticed he did use the regular Green Glue here as well as the caulk/sealant product. My bad (was watching the baby and YT at the same time!). Good luck with your build once you get around to it!
I appreciate the deep dive. I’m glad you didn’t put this video out a month earlier, I would’ve spent more money that I probably needed too. Looking forward to the acoustic panels video. Im considering that myself.
That was great information, hopefully I will be retiring soon and moving North and either looking for a three car garage or a detached garage, sound proofing wasn't even in my thoughts. You gave me a lot to think about. Thank you.
Using a wool based 'sound curtain' over your existing garage would help and put it on a normal curtain rail. You can buy second hand from theatres/sound studios. Also keeps the heat in / cool out. Deps where you live. I'm in the UK and use it for my movie room ( 20+ speakers )...
Im curious with the choice of "Glue" vs say MLV ( Mass Loaded Vinyl ) MLV as I see it would have #1 decoupled ( minus the screws ) #2 added more density, and #3 I would suggest is far better with dampening. Because you have cement floors... something like Barn Mats ( basically MLV ) underneath your mostly stationary tools would go a long way as well - helps stop the waves bouncing off of the hard floor surface - basically a more shop friendly version of carpet. MLV wrap your dust collector, and place panels of MLV inside of tools such as Table Saw and Band Saw - start reducing sound at its source. Great video though, on a very complicated subject that just doesnt seem to have any absolute clear guidance - its like the land of he said, she said - and even "Code" is very uh wishy washy on the topic
I totally agree. There is no one solution and there is a lot of conflicting info. Just have to absorb it all and make a decision that works for your situation. That’s what I did but the information was overwhelming at times.
We install a drywall product that is used in theaters for sound it’s like 3 or 4 -1/4" drywall sheets laminated together and in between the drywall has a metal sheet and special glues is used extremely heave 4 guys to hung one sheet.
Preface: I actually have a degree in Audio engineering from one of the top schools in the country. Worked out of Nashville for years. Ive spent the time in the rabbit hole. Theres a reason there are degrees for this ;) One of my gigs was actually installing studios and music venues. Because of NDAs I'm held to I can't give a ton of open details, but I will say job well done. I went the entire first half of this video going "God I hope he used green glue." I've had GCs not put it on and we've had them bring walls back down to install it when they skipped it. Separate thought on your panels. Not sure if they're needed. Or at lest I'm unsure if you're going to see enough benefit. Everything you have on the wall is currently acting as a diffuser. The only waves you could combat would be between your floor and your ceiling. That being said how much noise is being generated when you're just in your shop? My assumption is that every time you're operating tool you have hearing protection in. Is it going to be worth the effort for just your walking around/general tasks in the shop? Think about an the empty home you just moved into. When it was empty it was super loud. When you got furniture in. Put things on the wall it was diffused and damped. You may find the more ou settle into your shop and get things placed it's a non-issue. Just food for thought. Reach out if you ever want to dive more down the rabbit hole
My guess is that his intention for doing acoustic treatment on the walls is to provide better control for sound reflections during filming and video production, as well as cut down on the reverberation of high frequency tools such as his table saw and router/router table. From what I gathered in the video, he is satisfied with the current level of treatments for sound control inside the home. I'm probably wrong, but that was my take.
@@whatever_12 so.ething very similar to what's done here. You won't need to double drywall if it's floor to ceiling concrete. You have the mass. What you want to target mainly is small air gaps between your layers like what was achieved here with green glue. To very simply put it. Sound travels much easier through a solid object than it does air. That's why you can actually hear farther in water. If you put small air pockets between (and insulation as well if you can) your providing different mediums for the energy to have to transfer through. Every time there's a loss of energy. That sealing gaps. That's why builders won't put an outlet or switch between the same studs on either side of a wall. Sound energy is like water. It will find and expose the smallest holes and cracks in your mediums. Another reason why caulking with green glue products is so paramount. You can do all you want to the walls of your garage but it's similar to what he said in this video, it's so important that you perform a multitude of steps. Unless you plug all the holes in your bucket, water is going to leak.
Thank you for all the great info!! I know it was already mentioned but Al is dead on. I need the panels due to the echo. It doesn’t show up in the video only because I edited it lol. But, I would much rather not have to do that 🤣
Hello. That was a very informative and elaborated presentation. I wish you would talk about your garage door. Would you please say what kind of material you uses and how effective it is. I appreciate in advance for your expert opinion. Thanks.
We have a room in our house that is below our bedroom. It has a drop ceiling. Sound has not been an issue because that room has been my office/studio. We are moving my studio and moving my son to that room. The bedroom above has hard wood floors. This part of the house was built in 1915. The room below has a drop ceiling. Not sure why. When I’m in my studio…. I can hear my husband walk across the bedroom floor. But I never seem to hear him if he’s on the phone. When we are in my bedroom… I have heard my other son when he’s playing games. Only when the house is dead silent though. However… my son that is moving in this room… is a big gamer and has some that is over with him and they are loud. LOL. DO you think that using this safe and sound insulation installed in the drop ceiling would help? The walls are DOUBLE thick brick wall. So we are only working with the drop ceiling. We also have other plans down the road. So we are looking for a short term fix.
In case anyone is wondering, you have reached the end of the sound isolation rabbit hole when you realize you can spend the money and follow the rules and still wind up no better off than when you started.
So how did you attach the new gypsum drywall to your existing drywall, which you didn't wanna remove? Did you just build the wood frames in front of the old wall and add the insulation material, and then closed it with the gypsum drywall?
Great video Jason, thank you for the thorough coverage of your decision making process. In my case I have one wall of my shop that I currently have covered in OSB as a kind of added security from my upstairs tenant’s staircase. Only part of the length of the wall needs sound treatment and I’m thinking of using acoustical caulking in the OSB joints followed by green glue and 5/8” drywall. In your opinion, if I only used the green glue on a portion of the length of the wall, would the differential thickness be noticeable in the finished drywall? I suppose I could always use an inexpensive green glue substitute on the portion of the wall that doesn’t need treatment.
Hard to say. I think it would be better than it currently is. But, wood transfers sound very easily so I wonder how effective adding drywall to OSB would be.
I noticed at your door to the house you have a two and a half pound extinguisher this is inadequate for your space and the level of combustibles in your shop. There are I think you can go one twenty pound extinguisher but if it was me I would have two ten pound extinguisher one at the door to your house and one at the door going to the outside. This allows you two escape routes if you find you can't put the fire out.
I was just looking for the sound deadening drywall you used here in Canada and I can't seem to find anything. Ten I got to thinking about mass loaded vinyl and find it quite expensive on Amazon, so searching on the Home Depot site for "sound proofing" I see there are tons of flooring underlayment products that say they help reduce sound transmission and they are far more cost effective. I wonder if anyone has tried to use it between sheets of drywall as a decoupling membrane?
I have watched your video a second time and remain convinced that your ideas are great. Plus the materials you provide links to are outstanding. However after contacting Green Glue they confirmed what you're referenced Green Glue product material states is true. It is not to be used for exterior application such as a garage where temperature fluctuates widely. Is your garage heated/cooled?
Not sure if it applies to your shop, but what about recessed lighting in the ceiling? I want to do this in my basement, so the ceiling is my main concern. I have cans and HVAC vents that im sure are the easiest places for sounds to penetrate. Thanks and another great video
I plan to transition from occasional DIY projects to woodworking. I currently live in an apartment while a new home that will include a small woodworking shop is being planned and then built. My wife noticed how obsessed I have been in planning, from things like dust control, table saws to designing a hand tool workbench, when she commented, "before you get too carried away, check the HOA rules on noise. I did as requested, and found they prohibit emissions over 60 Dba. I did not sleep last night. But finding this excellent video has renewed my spirit and will continue to study the subject. This is a excellent video and is incredibly informative. And I have one advantage - starting from a blank slate.
60dB is pretty low threshold for noise from garage I am afraid.
Reason 879 I will NEVER live in an HOA
LOL 60dB?? a sneeze is louder than 60dB 😂 HOA=miserable people with no lives…on a power trip. does it get any worse than that?
I've watched this video twice and still learning from each time. A lot of info, but all essential to get to a desired sound-proofing. Thank you so much for the research and the truly informative video.
Glad you found it helpful
I think we must have gone down the same rabbit hole at the same time. All your research links are already bookmarked in my sound abatement folder. I agree with your conclusions. I had a bit of a different situation though and thought I would add my two cents for anyone in a basement shop. My shop is in my unfinished basement area. It's about 550 sqft and connects to another 1000 sqft that's finished. The finished area has an open stairwell to the upstairs. I gave up on doing much of anything to stop sound from transmitting into the finished basement other than any path that led to that open stairwell.
My focus were the four rooms right above my main shop area. I sealed the backs of all the HVAC registers with spray foam. I did 12" of mineral wool in between the floor joists. I'll pay someone next time. My shoulders were ruined for a couple of days. I didn't expect that to get me all the way there, so I kept going.
I have a 9' pour, so I decided to build "floating" panels. My floor joists are on 24" centers. I built 4' x 4' frames. I ripped 2x4's in half to keep the overall thickness down. Each frame got a single sheet of 5/8 drywall cut in half and laminated with green glue. I 3d printed ABS eye hooks with threaded shafts and drilled and tapped holes for them. I used 550 cord inside surgical tubing to hang the panels. I did not tie to the eye hooks. I thread the paracord/surgical tubing combo through both eyehooks and pull only the paracord tight and tie the two ends of only the paracord together. I luckily didn't have any major obstructions hanging lower than the joists. The panels hang with about an inch gap between them and floor joists, so I only lost about four inches total of ceiling space. The panel arrangement of course means some gaps between the panels, but the mineral wool is good enough for anything travelling through. I was also able to reconfigure my lighting to live within the gaps. This has worked extraordinarily well. I can run anything but my jointer, planer, and cnc when my wife is in her office right above me. If she is anywhere else upstairs, I can run anything. You can still hear it, but it's attenuated enough to be background noise. If the dishwasher is running, a tv is on, etc. you must know to listen for it.
Thank you so much for sharing that with everyone!!!! Such an in depth topic when you really get into it.
I'm glad you are looking at panels for the roof and such so you can reduce resonant noise for yourself in the workspace.
If you want to improve the doors more, put a double door in place - one opens in and one opens out. It's common on home theatre's and way better than just a solid core door.
The other door items to make sure you employ - a rubber or foam surround to seal the door as it closes. Add a rubber strip or similar weather seal at the base. This prevents sound leakage which can be significant.
Thanks for the tips
@@bentswoodworking
Jason, out of curiosity, how do you find the noise of your dust collector?
I think it's one of the most efficient (and quiet) at market.
How much different would it be for you if you almost had no noise from it?
If you like, we can link up to discuss some ways you can achieve that if you think it would be of significant value to you. I mean doing so without (hopefully) needing to move it from under bench location or compromising its performance and health,
I would be employing similar principles to what we used to do with small generators; there may be some scope to lessen noise further without moving it.
Have a think and let me know.
Yeah, I'm trying to sort this out for my shop. Thanks for walking through the thought process!
You’re welcome
Best how-to soundproofing video ever! Thank you.
I'm engineer and I have a lot of experience soundproofing rooms. For a workshop like yours the best solution is to add one or two layers of drywall but using foam adhesive and never using screws. The foam is the damper, and the drywall is the mass. No need more than this. Easy, fast, and clean.
Thank you.
I don't think that would pass structural inspection as you are only supporting the rock by the paper facing.
@@Darenator1 You can do some research on TH-cam and see that it is a widely used method of attaching drywall to the wall structure. You will find many videos showing the correct way to do it. I did it many times this way and never had a problem with inspectors of failures. We, the engineers, know about structures and standards.
@@Darenator1 For example: th-cam.com/video/dqONVbVQjX4/w-d-xo.html
Better to use a decoupled cleat system for creating a floating wall. Achieves the same while not compromising the structural integrity.
Mass dampening is beneficial. Absorption in the wall too which converts energy to heat, and the wall becoming a resonant membrane.
The decoupling is about prevention of airborne radiated energy converting to conducted structural vibration which then turns inside walls of the home to resonant membranes (basically speakers).
I'm also an engineer and I specialise in Radiated and conducted emissions :P
Thank you for your video. Your information mirrors a fair amount of the information that I had acquired while researching soundproofing some years ago. My issue was an irresponsible neighbor with Yappy dogs. There is a component of sound dampening in regards to decoupling walls with specific isolation fasteners.
Glad you found it helpful
Thank you for doing this video.. it’s something I have always wanted to add to my shop but didn’t know where to start.
You’re welcome!!
Very helpful. Currently, looking at a premises that needs to be completely refurnished for manufacturing and a showroom. Principal machinery is a CNC milling machine, cut-off saws, drill press, horizontal drilling machine, sanders and buffers, and a smallish semi-automatic lathe. And, the one thing that has been the greatest concerned is noise, the premises being sandwiched between a dermatologist and a boutique furniture shop. Buying in few finished components, the financial model for manufacturing is based on 'just in time' for want of a better phrase - making to order and supplying direct to customers. Hence the 'shop window', the need to have a good relationship with neighbours and isolate the noise of the manufacturing area from the showroom/shop front. This information, I am sure, is all out there somewhere but rarely summarised and so clearly and precisely explained by someone who has actually done the job.
A comment mentions recessed lighting/electrics. I've settle this by running everything in conduit on the surface to maximise the integrity of the insulated walls and ceilings, and flexibility.
Glad you found it helpful!
Really thorough walk through. I too went down the rabbit hole and came to the same conclusion. I just never got the sign off from the boss yet. But I'm ready to pull the trigger if she agrees. But I'll go with the MLV in between sheets.
From what I've researched, MLV won't hurt, but MLV being limp is the only way to get its full benefit. And sealed/limp MLV is best (since air movement = sound movement). Also to note, sealed/limp MLV = no air movement, and no air movement = suffocation, so there's that.... Seems like the bang for the buck/effort options are (least to most effective:) adding layers of standard drywall, adding standard drywall with something like Green Glue in between( the regular GG, not the caulk/sealant, that's used between joints only as he did in this video), adding specialized "drywall" or sheetgood type products with membranes embedded between gypsum layers like he used here (or QuietRock, etc.), decoupling using resilient channel and potentially also using the clips (although you can't hang much weight from this option, i.e. pegboard tool walls or lumber), and finally a full-blown room within a room. Be sure to account for heating/cooling/ventilation needs no matter which route you take. I am waist deep in this rabbit hole and still learning, but those are my take-aways so far.....hth!
@@jordanprice5954 Yeah, HVAC ducts are like sound highways. Interesting about MLV needing to be limp. I'll look into that. thanks. Also, I've used some sorbothane (sp?) to quiet a pump for my AC. Worked pretty well. It's pricey though.
@@hansangb not familiar with sorbothane but will check that out. Always interested in what other solutions exist out there. Also, I rewatched this more closely and noticed he did use the regular Green Glue here as well as the caulk/sealant product. My bad (was watching the baby and YT at the same time!). Good luck with your build once you get around to it!
I appreciate the deep dive. I’m glad you didn’t put this video out a month earlier, I would’ve spent more money that I probably needed too. Looking forward to the acoustic panels video. Im considering that myself.
Glad you found it helpful 👍
Really appreciate this. Have been looking at soundproofing this week. Thanks
It’s so overwhelming but I am very happy with what I did.
That was great information, hopefully I will be retiring soon and moving North and either looking for a three car garage or a detached garage, sound proofing wasn't even in my thoughts. You gave me a lot to think about. Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful
Well done, understand your steps as you want to make the right choice.
Thanks
Using a wool based 'sound curtain' over your existing garage would help and put it on a normal curtain rail. You can buy second hand from theatres/sound studios. Also keeps the heat in / cool out. Deps where you live. I'm in the UK and use it for my movie room ( 20+ speakers )...
Im curious with the choice of "Glue" vs say MLV ( Mass Loaded Vinyl ) MLV as I see it would have #1 decoupled ( minus the screws ) #2 added more density, and #3 I would suggest is far better with dampening. Because you have cement floors... something like Barn Mats ( basically MLV ) underneath your mostly stationary tools would go a long way as well - helps stop the waves bouncing off of the hard floor surface - basically a more shop friendly version of carpet. MLV wrap your dust collector, and place panels of MLV inside of tools such as Table Saw and Band Saw - start reducing sound at its source. Great video though, on a very complicated subject that just doesnt seem to have any absolute clear guidance - its like the land of he said, she said - and even "Code" is very uh wishy washy on the topic
I totally agree. There is no one solution and there is a lot of conflicting info. Just have to absorb it all and make a decision that works for your situation. That’s what I did but the information was overwhelming at times.
Thisss. So many people either skip or miss the closed-cell foam layer of sound deadening/dampening. It’s a wild difference.
We install a drywall product that is used in theaters for sound it’s like 3 or 4 -1/4" drywall sheets laminated together and in between the drywall has a metal sheet and special glues is used extremely heave 4 guys to hung one sheet.
Now that’s heavy!!
I just bought 3 sheets of 4x8x1/2 drywall yesterday $12.96 a sheet.
That’s crazy it has tripled in price.
Build the kitchen door!!
That would be a great video series for you channel.
Needs to be a fire rated door
Preface: I actually have a degree in Audio engineering from one of the top schools in the country. Worked out of Nashville for years. Ive spent the time in the rabbit hole. Theres a reason there are degrees for this ;) One of my gigs was actually installing studios and music venues. Because of NDAs I'm held to I can't give a ton of open details, but I will say job well done. I went the entire first half of this video going "God I hope he used green glue." I've had GCs not put it on and we've had them bring walls back down to install it when they skipped it.
Separate thought on your panels. Not sure if they're needed. Or at lest I'm unsure if you're going to see enough benefit. Everything you have on the wall is currently acting as a diffuser. The only waves you could combat would be between your floor and your ceiling. That being said how much noise is being generated when you're just in your shop? My assumption is that every time you're operating tool you have hearing protection in. Is it going to be worth the effort for just your walking around/general tasks in the shop? Think about an the empty home you just moved into. When it was empty it was super loud. When you got furniture in. Put things on the wall it was diffused and damped. You may find the more ou settle into your shop and get things placed it's a non-issue. Just food for thought. Reach out if you ever want to dive more down the rabbit hole
What would be the most effective thing to do to a concrete block garage in your opinion? Am more concerned about the sound going out
My guess is that his intention for doing acoustic treatment on the walls is to provide better control for sound reflections during filming and video production, as well as cut down on the reverberation of high frequency tools such as his table saw and router/router table. From what I gathered in the video, he is satisfied with the current level of treatments for sound control inside the home. I'm probably wrong, but that was my take.
@@AlAmantea gah filming that's what I get for trying to use my brain at midnight.
@@whatever_12 so.ething very similar to what's done here. You won't need to double drywall if it's floor to ceiling concrete. You have the mass. What you want to target mainly is small air gaps between your layers like what was achieved here with green glue. To very simply put it. Sound travels much easier through a solid object than it does air. That's why you can actually hear farther in water. If you put small air pockets between (and insulation as well if you can) your providing different mediums for the energy to have to transfer through. Every time there's a loss of energy. That sealing gaps. That's why builders won't put an outlet or switch between the same studs on either side of a wall. Sound energy is like water. It will find and expose the smallest holes and cracks in your mediums. Another reason why caulking with green glue products is so paramount. You can do all you want to the walls of your garage but it's similar to what he said in this video, it's so important that you perform a multitude of steps. Unless you plug all the holes in your bucket, water is going to leak.
Thank you for all the great info!! I know it was already mentioned but Al is dead on. I need the panels due to the echo. It doesn’t show up in the video only because I edited it lol. But, I would much rather not have to do that 🤣
This is really excellent information, great video. You might consider an article for FHB or FWW. Nice job !
Glad you found it helpful
Hello. That was a very informative and elaborated presentation. I wish you would talk about your garage door. Would you please say what kind of material you uses and how effective it is. I appreciate in advance for your expert opinion. Thanks.
Only here because of Dan Harmon
Same
Welcome, no murder in this video.
Thank you! This was extremely helpful!
Glad you found it helpful
We have a room in our house that is below our bedroom. It has a drop ceiling. Sound has not been an issue because that room has been my office/studio. We are moving my studio and moving my son to that room. The bedroom above has hard wood floors. This part of the house was built in 1915. The room below has a drop ceiling. Not sure why. When I’m in my studio…. I can hear my husband walk across the bedroom floor. But I never seem to hear him if he’s on the phone. When we are in my bedroom… I have heard my other son when he’s playing games. Only when the house is dead silent though. However… my son that is moving in this room… is a big gamer and has some that is over with him and they are loud. LOL. DO you think that using this safe and sound insulation installed in the drop ceiling would help? The walls are DOUBLE thick brick wall. So we are only working with the drop ceiling. We also have other plans down the road. So we are looking for a short term fix.
Thanks for this break down !!
Glad it was helpful!
In case anyone is wondering, you have reached the end of the sound isolation rabbit hole when you realize you can spend the money and follow the rules and still wind up no better off than when you started.
Lots of info
Great job
Glad you found it helpful
I’m really curious how your door upgrade comes out. If you can, please record the before and after on the noise meter
Will do!
That was interesting, thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
So how did you attach the new gypsum drywall to your existing drywall, which you didn't wanna remove? Did you just build the wood frames in front of the old wall and add the insulation material, and then closed it with the gypsum drywall?
Great video Jason, thank you for the thorough coverage of your decision making process. In my case I have one wall of my shop that I currently have covered in OSB as a kind of added security from my upstairs tenant’s staircase. Only part of the length of the wall needs sound treatment and I’m thinking of using acoustical caulking in the OSB joints followed by green glue and 5/8” drywall. In your opinion, if I only used the green glue on a portion of the length of the wall, would the differential thickness be noticeable in the finished drywall? I suppose I could always use an inexpensive green glue substitute on the portion of the wall that doesn’t need treatment.
Hard to say. I think it would be better than it currently is. But, wood transfers sound very easily so I wonder how effective adding drywall to OSB would be.
I noticed at your door to the house you have a two and a half pound extinguisher this is inadequate for your space and the level of combustibles in your shop. There are I think you can go one twenty pound extinguisher but if it was me I would have two ten pound extinguisher one at the door to your house and one at the door going to the outside. This allows you two escape routes if you find you can't put the fire out.
I was just looking for the sound deadening drywall you used here in Canada and I can't seem to find anything. Ten I got to thinking about mass loaded vinyl and find it quite expensive on Amazon, so searching on the Home Depot site for "sound proofing" I see there are tons of flooring underlayment products that say they help reduce sound transmission and they are far more cost effective. I wonder if anyone has tried to use it between sheets of drywall as a decoupling membrane?
If you’re in Canada, look for a product called SONOpan. We can’t get it here and I wish I could.
If you’re in Canada, look for a product called SONOpan. We can’t get it here and I wish I could.
Thank you being informative. So in terms of dB, how much were you able to dampen?
9:23 is where he FINALLY decides to tell us what he did. Save you time.
Did you do a before and after sound test with some of your woodworking equipment?
I have.
I have watched your video a second time and remain convinced that your ideas are great. Plus the materials you provide links to are outstanding. However after contacting Green Glue they confirmed what you're referenced Green Glue product material states is true. It is not to be used for exterior application such as a garage where temperature fluctuates widely. Is your garage heated/cooled?
Not sure if it applies to your shop, but what about recessed lighting in the ceiling? I want to do this in my basement, so the ceiling is my main concern. I have cans and HVAC vents that im sure are the easiest places for sounds to penetrate. Thanks and another great video
Former 11B here. Is that a blue ring I see on the drill hat behind you?
Sure is. I did my time on the trail in C 1-50 from 12-15
@@bentswoodworking My man! I did my OSUT at D-150 back in 2011ish. Glad to see another grunt killing it
Can you make 2 doors with a small space in between?
I’m sure you could. I definitely wouldn’t want to
Those Estimates Are Way To High ‘
He spent thousands of dollars on all this but didn’t replace the door to the kitchen that has a gaping hole.
He did say he's gonna replace it, but you probably didn't fully watch the video, and rather came to the comments section to type this
Please can we stop calling it "dampening". That is a completely different thing to damping.