You know I don't have an auto clutch, but if reliability was my main concern, it would be a good option. That and if you remove the clutch lever you could have a rear brake and even have the front brake on the left side. I just installed the Rekluse Torqdrive plate kit, and it feels really good. I can't wait to get on the trail and see how it does with all the TSP upgrades. I know the torque is good and the power is good too. Replacing the stock tires are probably the next thing.
no sight glass on the ktm's i guess? sorry that happened and feel your pain. had something similar happen but with coolant. leaked it from the overflow on a really hot hard enduro ride but saw no signs. forget to check the coolant level on my next ride and proceeded to blow the top end. luckily nothing catastrophic. agr!!! checking all fuids before and after every ride now mandatory!!
I've seen push rod end and slave cylinder issues with 690/701 lc4 engine few times. Turns out the customers or previous shops put push rod back in the opposite way and all things went to south.
Good reminder to check that oil weep hole once in a while. I like to stretch my oil changes out too, but the big risk with that is that your crank seal goes bad and you're running drying for up 10-20hrs. Checking the weep hole every cpl of rides gives some nice peace of mind. 338hrs on my 2014 Husaberg, still on the stock clutch components. Fingers crossed I didn't just jinx myself! Seems like they are not really building things like they used to, 220hrs is really not that much if you're keeping up on the maintenance.
@@constantink3721 I ride about 150hrs per year. Really dont understand how people strip this bolt, just don't overtighten it, it's not hard! Maybe people are treating it like a case bolt or something...
A little late but I’ve found putting a Ktm 500 washer spring in my 23 250 TBI after it would slip a little after about 20 or so minutes under high load. Haven’t had an issue since
That's a bummer! I've been getting 500-600 hours out of my crank seals. I'm at 1120 hours/17000 miles 300xc and it's been perfect. Best bike I've ever owned. Original crank too.
At 3:56 there is a gasket where you show the ball bearing. The kits come with it but if you look at the diagram online you should only use them in certain year models. Generally the two strokes only use the o-ring to seal it off. Took a look at the diagram on the 24 300 and it shows to only use the o-ring and not the gasket on the slave. Made the same mistake on my 250 but caught it before it became an issue.
@@highlandcycles 🤑🤑🤑 No... you'd rather push. 👽👽👽 Bikes are like kids... we love em but they are trying to break us 90% of the time. The other 10% we gotta carry them to where we wanna be 😃😃😃
You might want to check behind your ignition cover too. The LH side balancer shaft bearing is highly loaded and once it develops some play the seal will go as well allowing your gear oil to go into the ignition cover cavity.
Been watching these since my buddy has a KTM 85 for his kid and having a helluva time with the hydraulic clutch. Rebuilt slave, re-bled system still having issues but might need to go check his clutch side, he's getting to that point of frustration with it hah.
would be interesting to see the condition of the clutch rubber dampers. doubt it would cause problems but probably good to change while its apart. Rekluse makes an upgraded version of the stock ones. would be cool to hear your thoughts on this aswell.
@highlandcycles that's one of the reasons I love my 89CR250R good old cable operated clutch 🤘 really hope it work for you this time your bike is awesome
Yeah I would have definitely flushed it but Sorry it blew so fast. Least it went out somewhere safe to pull off and get back to camp. Hope round 2 goes better.
If you didn't have the clutch on setting 3 the clutch will slip under high power. Especially in hill climbs. This has happened to me twice. A light clutch feel is not always a good thing. In my opinion. I'm running Hinson clutch discand plates, And the stronger Bellevue washer. No more slippage. Everywhere I'm at it's major hill climb.
Sucks this happened, but as a mechanic when you see something like this it's cool. How odd that repeated hydraulic clutch failure would be the first symptom of a bad internal engine seal.
Highland if you had to get a 4stroke Dirtbike, with your knowledge in the industry which brand / model would you go with?? I know you prefer 2strokes. Honda? Yahama? I doubt it would be KX.
my clutch basket has .009 of play between outer basket and crank output gear. is that normal ? my friend has the same thing... i just cant believe there is that much play between 2 gears.
Don’t you check your trans oil before every ride??? I find that odd. Maybe it’s just me but I treat my trans just like any other fluid gets checked regularly
@@ShawnBlais I agree but you’d be amazed at how many are stripped. Also, so many aren’t the right level. In general, I just drain it and fill with the right amount. As long as this doesn’t happen you’re good. And this shouldn’t happen at 200 hrs. Every other bike I’ve ever owned went WAY longer.
1/ i f*cked up a rally after a crash, some thin air in the hose on front master cylinder: it was good after purge then each time revving, lever fading a way. took lots of time to find it as just not enough screwed. 2/ found too that the clutch hose going to slave cylinder was too near or touching engine heat.... 3/ when clutch fades away after too had work, i just thro fresh water on the gearbox case. 30 sec later , all is good... the engineering of these bikes is not made for hard use in hot temp... nothing cools down gearbox oil..... 4/ purging clutch line is not enough as lots of slave cylinders have a snail chamber and old oil stays in it, contaminating the seals and diaphragm. I systematically open and flush/clean it .....
I dont have all the goofy issues on my yz250..u do on these hi-tech new fangled..ktms..thing is if Yamaha made a yz300x with a electric start..thing would go back to the waY they were for 40 years..no one would ride a ktm..
Hahaha. I think any other kind of oil would have let the trans fail. The oil definitely didn’t cause the seal failure. I’ve used gearsaver in motors with over 800hrs on them
Yeah. And I’ll never use anything else. It’s great and it’s saved me a transmission twice now. The first time was a hole in a clutch cover in a race and I finished the race with no oil left but never replaced a part in the transmission
You seem to have a lot of problems with the beta 200 you had a lot of problems with the beta 300 and now you’re having a lot of problems with this KTM I’m starting to wonder all the aftermarket parts that you’re throwing on these bikes levers and what not starting to wonder if it’s not the operator that’s causing a lot of them.
The beta 200 didn’t have any aftermarket stuff on it that had anything to do with the clutch. The beta 300 motor is completely stock with just a spark arrestor on it and the beta suggested jetting. My KTM? That does have the easy assist on the clutch but it was the crank seal that caused the issue. So….
You know I don't have an auto clutch, but if reliability was my main concern, it would be a good option. That and if you remove the clutch lever you could have a rear brake and even have the front brake on the left side.
I just installed the Rekluse Torqdrive plate kit, and it feels really good. I can't wait to get on the trail and see how it does with all the TSP upgrades. I know the torque is good and the power is good too. Replacing the stock tires are probably the next thing.
no sight glass on the ktm's i guess? sorry that happened and feel your pain. had something similar happen but with coolant. leaked it from the overflow on a really hot hard enduro ride but saw no signs. forget to check the coolant level on my next ride and proceeded to blow the top end. luckily nothing catastrophic. agr!!!
checking all fuids before and after every ride now mandatory!!
I've seen push rod end and slave cylinder issues with 690/701 lc4 engine few times. Turns out the customers or previous shops put push rod back in the opposite way and all things went to south.
i know the issue - you should be riding a 4t KTM like me 🙂, glad you found it in the end and its great for others who see it / informed by it
Good reminder to check that oil weep hole once in a while. I like to stretch my oil changes out too, but the big risk with that is that your crank seal goes bad and you're running drying for up 10-20hrs. Checking the weep hole every cpl of rides gives some nice peace of mind.
338hrs on my 2014 Husaberg, still on the stock clutch components. Fingers crossed I didn't just jinx myself! Seems like they are not really building things like they used to, 220hrs is really not that much if you're keeping up on the maintenance.
Wouldn't do that unless you dont ride a lot... your are going to strip the threads on your weep hole, at least on the ktm
@@constantink3721 I ride about 150hrs per year. Really dont understand how people strip this bolt, just don't overtighten it, it's not hard! Maybe people are treating it like a case bolt or something...
@@ShawnBlais you just wait ;) I dont strip threads ever and there I was putting in insert in.
A little late but I’ve found putting a Ktm 500 washer spring in my 23 250 TBI after it would slip a little after about 20 or so minutes under high load. Haven’t had an issue since
Doing my seal right now as well on my 2020 TPI.... Parts on backorder from EVERY dealer in my area. RMATV had them luckily...
Love to see you pulling seal and replacement 🎉🎉
It’s coming.
@@highlandcycles Can't wait!
That's a bummer! I've been getting 500-600 hours out of my crank seals.
I'm at 1120 hours/17000 miles 300xc and it's been perfect. Best bike I've ever owned. Original crank too.
Normally I do too 😢
Don’t forget to replace the crank spacer bushing and o-ring. Had the same failure on my ‘20 300 TPI. No clutch failure though.
All coming
At 3:56 there is a gasket where you show the ball bearing. The kits come with it but if you look at the diagram online you should only use them in certain year models. Generally the two strokes only use the o-ring to seal it off. Took a look at the diagram on the 24 300 and it shows to only use the o-ring and not the gasket on the slave. Made the same mistake on my 250 but caught it before it became an issue.
Thanks.
I have a YZ you can borrow. Sorry, too soon? 😁 I'm glad you figured out.
😂🤣
Hahahhahaha
Or a sherco😂
@@woodysrockspyro6436 I’d rather walk than ride anything French 🤣
@@highlandcycles
🤑🤑🤑
No... you'd rather push.
👽👽👽
Bikes are like kids... we love em but they are trying to break us 90% of the time. The other 10% we gotta carry them to where we wanna be
😃😃😃
😂😂 💯 can’t beat a YZ ever.
You might want to check behind your ignition cover too. The LH side balancer shaft bearing is highly loaded and once it develops some play the seal will go as well allowing your gear oil to go into the ignition cover cavity.
Yep. I’m replacing the left side seal too.
Good diagnosis.
Been watching these since my buddy has a KTM 85 for his kid and having a helluva time with the hydraulic clutch. Rebuilt slave, re-bled system still having issues but might need to go check his clutch side, he's getting to that point of frustration with it hah.
So frustrating
I see you're prepping the back up BW200!
Yessir
My clutch line failed in the exact same spot with only 4 hours on it, had clutch fade as well, thankfully replacing the "clutch pipe" fixed the issue
would be interesting to see the condition of the clutch rubber dampers. doubt it would cause problems but probably good to change while its apart. Rekluse makes an upgraded version of the stock ones. would be cool to hear your thoughts on this aswell.
I am replacing them. With OEM but definitely going to be new
Off topic question, I like your sunglasses! What brand are they? Thanks for the awesome content!!
Thanks. They are MSR. Here is a link bit.ly/4bh2AKd
I've had my 20 ktm crank seal leak too ...mine was pretty easy see /smell ..caught it early so i didn't burn anything up ..ktm=keep taking money 💰
Im hoping its all good for you after all that. Kind of crazy to think that a crankshaft seal would cause all that 🤘🤘
I know
@highlandcycles that's one of the reasons I love my 89CR250R good old cable operated clutch 🤘 really hope it work for you this time your bike is awesome
Yeah I would have definitely flushed it but Sorry it blew so fast. Least it went out somewhere safe to pull off and get back to camp. Hope round 2 goes better.
This is round 3 and flushing had nothing to do with it. Have you finished the video?
@@highlandcycles yep
My xr400r or yz450,yz250 are always ready to rock anytime ,I ride them 3 x a week also crf450x let's roll.
sorry for the bad luck. Dirtbikes are machines and machines do break unfortunately
Thanks very informative
If you didn't have the clutch on setting 3 the clutch will slip under high power. Especially in hill climbs. This has happened to me twice. A light clutch feel is not always a good thing. In my opinion. I'm running Hinson clutch discand plates,
And the stronger Bellevue washer. No more slippage. Everywhere I'm at it's major hill climb.
Ha! That semi rare BW200 behind you.
So cool. It still runs!!
Sucks this happened, but as a mechanic when you see something like this it's cool. How odd that repeated hydraulic clutch failure would be the first symptom of a bad internal engine seal.
I know right?
Do you recycle oils? Where do you take oil mixed with water?
I do. I have a guy who takes care of it.
Great diagnosis.
85 hrs on my ktm 300 when crank seal started sucking oil from crankcase
Highland if you had to get a 4stroke Dirtbike, with your knowledge in the industry which brand / model would you go with?? I know you prefer 2strokes. Honda? Yahama? I doubt it would be KX.
Would be an Austrian 350
Just an FYI you might want to check the CCP sensor and see how much oil is pushed up into the inlet of the sensor while you have good access.
Good idea. Fortunately on these bikes it’s easy to get to.
Finally the answer!!!
I know!!!
I’m not sure if I missed the episode but are you not racing the beta anymore? You went back to the TBI?
Yeah. I only raced the beta in hard enduro and one other race b
Off topic question, do you have a specific coolant that you use?
In my 2T bikes I use Evan’s.
@@highlandcycles same on 4t?
@@Frostbyte911 no. On 4T I just use normal stuff. Napa, whatever. If you’re going to ride hard stuff on a 4T, make sure you have a fan
Crank seals are such a pain
Which flag style hand guards do you like better molecule or sxs burly?
Molecule but both are great
You could have drained the oil, pull the small cover, fire it up and work the clutch, problem might jump right out.
PRC!!!🤘🏽🤘🏽🤘🏽
my clutch basket has .009 of play between outer basket and crank output gear. is that normal ? my friend has the same thing... i just cant believe there is that much play between 2 gears.
Is this common issue with TBI or also TPI?
No. It’s just a 2T thing
I think the push rod spun the slave piston.
Yeah. That’s what I found
why do you use the rekluse slave ?
It’s a nicer part. Better materials
Surprised you didn't notice the difference in clutch drag etc... probably a slow leak enough leak where you got used to it
@@constantink3721 I know. I didn't notice anything.
Time to move to the Chinese GPX300?
My Sherco has not had any problems. Just busting your balls HaHa. i still have my 2017 Hucky TE 300 as a back up bike.🤘🤘🤘🤘
Haha
Thanks for all of the great videos and "heads up" but could you at least clean your nails if they are going to be in the video....LOL😁
Haha. Nope
Say thanks for your gearsaver oil keeping your clutch going 😂
100%
Don’t you check your trans oil before every ride??? I find that odd. Maybe it’s just me but I treat my trans just like any other fluid gets checked regularly
I don’t. Mainly because I’ve seen a ton of those check bolts strip
@@highlandcycles You don't break down your bike to the molecular level before each ride to verify alchemical integrity hasn't changed?! 😂
@@MechShark hahahahaha
@@highlandcycles I use mine all the time and just tighten it gently, never leaks or comes loose so there's no need to overtighten.
@@ShawnBlais I agree but you’d be amazed at how many are stripped. Also, so many aren’t the right level. In general, I just drain it and fill with the right amount. As long as this doesn’t happen you’re good. And this shouldn’t happen at 200 hrs. Every other bike I’ve ever owned went WAY longer.
1/ i f*cked up a rally after a crash, some thin air in the hose on front master cylinder: it was good after purge then each time revving, lever fading a way. took lots of time to find it as just not enough screwed. 2/ found too that the clutch hose going to slave cylinder was too near or touching engine heat.... 3/ when clutch fades away after too had work, i just thro fresh water on the gearbox case. 30 sec later , all is good... the engineering of these bikes is not made for hard use in hot temp... nothing cools down gearbox oil..... 4/ purging clutch line is not enough as lots of slave cylinders have a snail chamber and old oil stays in it, contaminating the seals and diaphragm. I systematically open and flush/clean it .....
You know what they say KTM stands for..... Keep The Mechanic :)
No. Keeps Taking Money.
I dont have all the goofy issues on my yz250..u do on these hi-tech new fangled..ktms..thing is if Yamaha made a yz300x with a electric start..thing would go back to the waY they were for 40 years..no one would ride a ktm..
I would reevaluate the type of oil you use.
Good point... Rotella T4 never gave me these kinda of problems :p
Hahaha. I think any other kind of oil would have let the trans fail. The oil definitely didn’t cause the seal failure. I’ve used gearsaver in motors with over 800hrs on them
@@highlandcycles I'm totally playin, it's just gear oil, I don't overthink it. Good luck with the KTM!
Could of been a lot worse Morgan 👍
Yep whew
it this Loretta or the newer ktm
This is Loretta. The 23 XC
Maybe you should get a GPX 300. 😂
🤘🏻😂
@@highlandcycles Don't listen to @hello-dirt Morgan....DON'T LISTEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 😲
@@painsrides he kidding
@@highlandcycles I'm not ..... 🤣
All the oil is on your swingarm, lol.
I know 😂
Aceite cada 10 horas
Yep. I went too long
The 1st thing I would do is call slavens. He should be able to diagnose the problem and sell you the parts you need
80 weight gear oil huh? Humm??
Yeah. And I’ll never use anything else. It’s great and it’s saved me a transmission twice now. The first time was a hole in a clutch cover in a race and I finished the race with no oil left but never replaced a part in the transmission
Time for a Rekluse LOL..... I am just kidding I know you don't like them
You seem to have a lot of problems with the beta 200 you had a lot of problems with the beta 300 and now you’re having a lot of problems with this KTM I’m starting to wonder all the aftermarket parts that you’re throwing on these bikes levers and what not starting to wonder if it’s not the operator that’s causing a lot of them.
The beta 200 didn’t have any aftermarket stuff on it that had anything to do with the clutch. The beta 300 motor is completely stock with just a spark arrestor on it and the beta suggested jetting. My KTM? That does have the easy assist on the clutch but it was the crank seal that caused the issue. So….
Stupid bikes!
😊
Drained it and didn't fill it last time? You would not be the first.
No. I had that flash through my mind for a second but I rode it for too long for that to be the case and some oil came out, just not much.
Time for a 2025
Yep.
Really? Or just joking
Shit brakes, you are a good hand at fixing bikes ,,