Products used in this video: Surface Shield Gallon: amzn.to/2YpscVq Surface Shield 5 Gallon: amzn.to/30rrrvK Surface Shield Aerosol: amzn.to/3BIUgk8 Fluid Film: amzn.to/3mQbiZy Woolwax: amzn.to/3wmpbS1 Professional Spray Gun: amzn.to/3bIN9gX Aerosol Can Spray Handle: amzn.to/3EUpE1b Graffiti Adapters for Blaster Cans (only needed for older male top blaster cans): amzn.to/3CPi5rX Inner Cavity Spray Wand for Aerosol:amzn.to/3NNtZbP Wireless Borescope: amzn.to/3CPdCoV My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same. The biggest thing that I have found with any of the Lanolin undercoatings is people always want to know what is "best". Your application of the product plays a larger role in it's performance than the coating itself. To me this is like talking about the "best" motor oil. Like motor oil, you can run the "best" oil on the market but you still need to change your oil. If you don't keep up with your maintenance, your motor oil will turn to sludge regardless of the oil that you use. That is how to need to feel about these coatings. Some of these coatings are better than others but, they will all stop rust if they are touched up yearly with and properly maintained. If you want to use Fluid Film go for it. If you want to use Woolwax, do it. Surface Shield creeps and migrates like Fluid Film but will resist wash-off like Woolwax. That is why I'm switching. It doesn't make Fluid Film or Woolwax bad products I have proven that they both can work well. I want to see if Surface Shield can live up to it's claim of going 2 years without a re-coat.
It maybe redundant content for you. For us consumers, it gives confidence in the products. Plus, we all like to see the reality of the long term protection and durability of these products. 22:24
@@ureasmith3049 my error. The product I found was NOT Surface Shield. It was their Corrosion Stop protectant. ZERO lanolin I will be looking for quantities of Surface Shield.
People want to see you do this for 10 to 15 years when vehicles get too far gone and see whether fluid film works on a long long term basis. Keeping making them because nobody ever has done that on video. Great Job and excellent analysis brother!
Twenty three years ago I purchased a new Ford Excursion, in the Ohio rust belt. I coated it every 3 years with Fluid Film. Today, at 350,000 miles, it has no rust anywhere. Wish I would’ve taken pictures/video of the process over the years.
My friend has a 2002 Jeep and a 2003 BMW that he purchased new and has rustproofed them with this from day one. They still look new. Based on his experience, I have done the same with my Jeep Gladiator Mojave.
I really appreciate these videos. Because it's real proof that these products work. For such a long time it was hard to know what products ACTUALLY worked versus what didn't versus what might actually encourage rust and corrosion (I'm looking at you rubberized coatings that crack...). Largely because of your videos, we bought a spray gun and 5 gallon buckets of fluid film to undercoat our own vehicles (small business and our personal vehicles in Vermont).
@@randomrazr If you don't have a vehicle with enough ground clearance, get a set of ramps you can drive the car up on to. You'll have to lay on your back.
👍👍 Never stop updating! As an end user/customer, I want to know what to buy and how it performs. You are doing a great service by reducing/eliminating much of the guesswork for the common people whom don't do this on a regular basis. 👌
Keep up these videos! They're the reason I found this channel. Honestly, the repetition of these videos every year is what makes them valuable. Too many people post videos about spraying the film on, but very few people actually post quality, detailed content about how it holds up and protects the car. Your videos on this topic are extremely valuable to me at least! Thanks
I used surface shield after watching your videos. Your reviews seem the most non BS non promotion of products out there. Thank you. I recommend if youre spraying first time check your work in the dark with a light, it makes it VERY easy to see where you missed when its still wet and the rest of the underbody is matte.
learned of PB blaster IN TEXAS, i just moved there and had to find a machinist real quick,small jobs and turning transmission drums are a must,i also had a set of valuable cylinder heads machined,i asked the machinist what he uses to stop rust on machined surfaces,he said they had tried almost everything till they learned of pb blaster,he said we only use it on cranks,rods and cylinder heads that have been cut and smoothed,he said it is only good for that purpose,out of the rain[direct] and just deals with humidity from texas,oklahoma,and kansas and mo wet air,for rust we used undercoated tar [asphalt in the 50's on] now ziebart and this fluid flim,when i restore one,i don't want to lose it to the elements this rust situation is an ongoing problem with high dollar toys
Wow! I really appreciate that you've tested these! I don't think for a minute that you're pushing a product.. I'm just thrilled that you've done the legwork on this! Thanks!
My personal experience with Cosmoline and FF: Cosmoline on clean surface. FF on rusted surface. Cosmoline on rusted surface accelerated the rust, much like rubberized undercoating. FF washes off too easy to protect all winter long. Once I exhaust my supplies, I will try Surface Shield. It looks interesting.
You have some of the best content for true blind product comparisons. I have utilized your videos and insight to protect our vehicles. Very much appreciated.
Excellent review! So many just show the first year/ application of the product. We all want to know long term how this all works and if it's worth it. Your reviews do that! Thank you for your great and honest reviews! Having a 4 or 5 or 8 year old vehicle with little to no rust while traveling the rust-belt salt-covered roads is great!! Don't try to convince the nay-sayer's...know you are doing a worth-while thing for the rest of us!
Way back, my aversion to rust began with my Tonka truck! Just found you, fellow OH-IOian here. Binge watching to catch up!!! I am super thankful for all your efforts and candid no nonsense. Love it man! Lunch on me when in Columbus
Thank you for doing this. I live in the rust belt. I had a brake line failure due to rust and had to replace the lines on the vehicle. I sprayed the lines on my other vehicle to head off a similar problem. I wish I had seen a video similar to yours 10 years ago. What you are doing has value. People who do this will have less maintenance expense and have greater resale value for a small annual cost. Whether people listen or want to bitch is out of your control...don't worry about it.
FF is made by a large family owned company in South San Francisco, WoolWax is made by Bob Smith who owns Kellsport Products in Rhode Island. Bob was having trouble getting deliverys from FF, so he went out on his own, and manufactures WW locally, and is a great guy! I prefer woolwax, its thicker and has much less smell
I wouldn't say single handedly. I'm pretty sure you're mostly involved in that process haha. I just started all of this because I was sick of having vehicles that rot out.
In the UK there’s a product that was originally named Finnegans Waxoyl. It’s now has changed the name to Hammerite Waxoyl. Same product and can be found on the web using either name. This product kills rust, self heals and drives out any moisture. Spray it into all cavities and crevices. Avoid some plastics and rubbers etc and obviously braking surfaces.
Keep the yearly updates coming! Been following this all along and really enjoy the detail. I am doing a mini test myself this year - I used Surface Shield on one jeep based on your last video and Fluid Film on the other and am going to see which holds up better. Also just bought that borescope - looking forward to seeing what my inner rockers and frame looks like.
Great series of videos. Been following a long time. The pressure washer to the Blaster Surface Shield a while back sold me for sure. Just put 7 cans on my Jeep Gladiator and 6 cans on Infiniti Qx50. Thanks for your thorough testing and reviews!
about to go buy surface shield and put it on my XJ (it's rusty underneath from living in a rust belt state most of its life but nothing structural) and I want to keep it from getting any worse as others have stated I very much enjoy your thorough approach to testing... excited for more content to come
Uhh, the way you labeled it, the Fluid Film outdoor test metal looks better to me than the Blaster, at least on camera. Great video! Honestly, I think FF, WW, and SS all do the job well and will keep a vehicle rust free if applied at least every 2 years. The videos are great because you are actually testing them long term. I know it feels redundant, but they are not because of the time passing. That's what we all really want to know. How does it do over time? Us FF users put up with a lot of stink using this stuff, so we like seeing that it is worth it!
The Fluid Film looks cleaner color wise but, the top edge is starting to rust. Whenever I do this pole testing the rust always starts at the top and works it way down the test piece. I wipe some of it off here and the surface shield is clean underneath. th-cam.com/video/NE1_EiZIVHs/w-d-xo.html
Up to this point, you have been comparing two products which give, in your opinion, identical results. In this video, you explain why you expect more durability from Surface Shield in comparison to Fluid Film and Woolwax. Surface shield is made by the same company that makes PB Blaster, which most mechanics agree is better than other penetrating oils for disassembly of rusted/corroded metal joints. Looking forward to next year's results!
I found your videos over a year ago when I was starting to buy a 2020 Tacoma. I coated my new truck last year in October with fluid film. This yeah I did it again with fluid film. I used 5 cans on the Tacoma the first time and 4 cans this year. It seemed like some was still on w lot of places high up. That and the Tacoma has a composite bed so I didn't need to spray any of the bed underside. My truck still looks new. I couldn't seem to find surface shield near me so I will continue with it until I can find surface shield.
I am up in geauga. I have a leased ram 1500 that i got last november. It already had rust forming all over on the frame. My uncles 2 year old gmc 1500 has a good amount of rust on the frame and also a lease. Have a 2009 f550 at work that i fluid film every year and is used as a plow/salt truck. It has very little rust on it for its age. No doubt the stuff works. I have switched to wool wax but will be going to PB. Thanks for your videos.
From my experience over the years; I’m 64 years old. The driver side of a vehicle gets more corrosive contamination, because on coming traffic sprays your vehicle’s driver’s side versus the passenger side.
I used fluid film to coat the leaf springs on my boat trailer on an island surrounded by salt & wind. After one summer by springs looked brand new and still had almost all the paint on them. The boat next to mine that was newer than mine already had extensive rust. I coated them for 10 years, often just once a year and never any sign of rust. Love Fluid Film.
Thanks for the update videos. I am going to do my 2014 Jeep Rubicon that has spent it's life in Georgia until I just recently moved to northern Michigan with some Surface Shield.
Interesting. The aerosols for SS are a couple bucks cheaper than FF and WW at home depot and other places. But the gallon of SS is 40 percent more expensive. I bought 5 gallon pail of woolwax last year. Only use about a gallon a year on my truck. I'm gonna use aerosol cans of this SS in the panels and inside doors since it is thinner and creeps better.
Back in 1943 ( not positive about the year ) US NAVY helped or requested Fluid Film Company creat this product for application in their double bottom ship to stop or slow down RUST. I've been using FLUID FILM for about twenty years and PB BLASTER maybe 10 or more yeas on the farm. Both are great products when it comes to RUST!!!
What’s the process for touch up application in year 2? Clean the whole underside, let dry & reapply. Or just reapply to dirt and dust that has collected?? Something more?
I'm with Joshua Griffes . You've done a whole lot of people all over the place a great service which many of us cannot do because of lack of equipment and knowledge. Thanks for your research and postings. I looked up Fluid Film, because it was in a users group entry. Your video was the first I viewed. Excellent.
Wow in the inside of those panels and braces looked like they were treated yesterday...Won't be worrying about brake lines rusting out for decades...Amazing! Tremendous Product...I lived a half mile from the Plant where the Colorados are made for 30 years. Live about 10 miles away now. Hope they are holding up well for you guys. Mechanical and interior wise. Great Videos! This eally shows real world abuse and results.
One of the few things i love about living in California is the weather, or lack-there-of. My 2010 Audi S4 has less rust on it even though it's been parked on the street and not my garage for 10 of those 13 years. But I actually came here doing research about dealing with rust on my old man's 1999 Toyota 4runner which became apparent to me while replacing the automatic shifter bushings the other day, and noticed the front control arm end links were snapped and there was quite a bit of rust on everything. I'm gonna get back under it tomorrow to install the new end links and will bring a little ball peen hammer to give everything a few taps to see how bad it really is.
Another fantastic video, hats off to you! .The borescope video is the proof that this works. The tip on those adapters is a great one- I tried, but could not get the 3M wands to stay on the Blaster cans. It's a shame, because the 3M wands are longer and more stiff for working into places the limp Woolwax aerosol can wands cannot. I'm not sure if there's a practical difference compared to Woolwax, but the Blaster's superior creep makes it a great choice for inner cavities. I have a new van and Jeep to protect, but I'm thinking of using the Woolwax and Blaster I have to coat the hidden surfaces, and the more Cosmoline-like CRC Corrosion Inhibitor on exposed areas where it would the treatment would be easier to dislodge. I will probably use the Blaster or Woolwax on rotating masses like the driveshafts/halfshafts where the weight of the waxy CRC could (theoretically) cause a balance issue. One question- the roadside angle iron samples- it looks like the FlluidFilm piece is minimally corroded, but the Blaster piece has a rusty color. Is that just an accumulation of dirt on still-adhering Blaster, and the FluidFilm just washed off along with embedded dirt?
The blaster product has changed colors in the past 10 months but it's not rusty underneath: th-cam.com/video/NE1_EiZIVHs/w-d-xo.html Yes the FF has mostly washed off from rain and I think partially, the summer heat. In this testing the rust always starts on top like you see with FF and then works it's way down the face.
Thanks for doing the testing on these products. I'm having my 2016 pickup redone. The place I am going to uses Fluid Flim. I think I'll talk to them about Blasters product. Thanks again.
Wow, great videos on this. So detailed. I think this is a maintenance thing as well as a product thing. As in absolutely maintaining that film barrier before the salt season. When you have some rust from abrasion or what ever, touch up the paint in that spot. I’m in the market to get a new to me truck. I just ordered a gun and a 5 gal of the surface shield from all of this great info you have provided.
When spraying any of these bulk products, get a pressure gun. No overspray. The product goes right on the surface. I don't know how the spray cans work. This year, I'm trying waxoyl hard wax undercoating. Here in Central New York State, fluid film doesn't even last through the winter. For inside door panels and places not subject to spray or abrasion, it works fine. I also added electronic cathodic rustproofing.
Keep going with the videos. Im just in WV with the same weather as you in OH. I spend alot of money on vehicles and want them to last as long as possible. I appreciate your work.
I started going to krown rust proofing but im thinking about switching over to doing it myself with the PB stuff you use. Thank you for the informative video.
Wow,,great to see after 4 years !! I've got a new to me 2016 TUNDRA and hope to defeat rust from eating my truck with one of these products. I'm considering having it done vs me doing it just because of them being able to get in doors and tailgate etc.
if one does not pull off bumper covers, you will not know if you've covered it all, including bumper cover retaining brackets under the headlights common on non-trucks ....also don't forget pulling back trunk interior liners, spraying the floor if parking cables come through under the center console....ask me how I know.
Mr Repair Geek thanks for the videos... very informative! Keep them coming. Quick question when reapplying after 1 year, do you usually clean the previous residue off that has dirt and debris on it or do you spot patch where you can see there is no fluid film residue. Thanks again!!!!
These are very highly appreciated videos thank you so much for taking the time and effort to document this very valuable information! I’m going to be buying a brand new car soon and I’m very particular about protecting and making my things last. So I will definitely be coating my new car after seeing how well this product has held up and protected your vehicle through the harsh winters we have to go endure ! Honestly after seeing your videos and research on the product it makes the decision on how to protect your investment very clear! I was sceptical at first of the product but I put in a wheel well went through a winter and it’s still there even with the road spray so it’s a durable product even though it appears to be thin like it will just wash off. And thanks again I will definitely continue to watch this videos! As I find it very interesting, entertaining and smart lol !
EXCELLENT Video. I see in your video you don't remove the tires and don't cover the breaks with plastic. I have seen other videos where they do cover the breaks. Should I just follow how you do it? Will ovrspary on breaks cause any issues?
Fluid Film won't attack rubber either. I spray the chassis of my vehicles and make no effort to avoid CV boots, ball joints, and so on. Rubber is perfect after several years of FF treatment.
Blaster says it's too much hassle to sell Surface Shield (but not their other products) in Canada, so it will be Fluid Film on some parts of the undercarriage (seams,etc) and wool wax on the wear areas. Your videos are very well done. Thanks for the info.
There’s a product that a lot of people are starting to use here in Maine called NH oil undercoating. A repair shop nearby from where I live,switched from fluid film to NH oil a couple of years ago and they claim it’s a much better product as it creeps much more and doesn’t wash off.
But a second video found that a newer formulation of NHOU oil did much better: th-cam.com/video/9SOOfZFmhSY/w-d-xo.html Also, some of us can't spray our own vehicles, so we have to use whatever a professional will spray. In my area (Michigan), the only professional options are Krown, NHOU, and rubberized. Since his video found that Krown doesn't work at all, while NHOU works okay, I went with NHOU. I might have gone with Fluid Film, Wool Wax, or Surface Shield if there was a professional who would apply it for me, but there isn't.
Do the Graffitti adaptors make the Surface Shield spray properly?? I ask because the Blaster Surface Shield reviews are poor due to the cans not spraying properly. Thanks in advance for your replies.
only difference i see on your truck is fluid film attracts less dirt. in the UK we use Bilt Hamber dynax for our coatings be interesting to see you test those.
I have a jug of "HinderRust" made by the guy that formulated Kroil (orange spray cans). I sprayed it under my Montero a couple years ago. There are reports it spreads out on its own. Also, if you get it on a painted surface it's very difficult to remove and new paint won't stick. It appears to be about the same color and viscosity as Blaster Shield.
Looks like surface shield works great but man it looks terribly messy. It appears to always be wet and I can only imagine how messy it will be when the truck needs worked on. There is a product from Amsoil that seems to dry up and be less messy.
Aerosol is comparable in price to FF. Bulk seems to be more expensive but today is the first day I've seen a price on the bulk. It may drop with time. Either one will work for you.
The paraffinic oil in FF is high viscosity; the naphthenic oil in SS is low viscosity; both are petroleum products but the SS product flows a lot easier than the FF product because of the viscosity difference.
Great long term review man! Awesome info. One this is for sure. These products will pay for themselves on any vehicle you plan to keep long term. They'll pay for themselves in disassembly time for any repairs alone! Would love to see you test Barrier Bond if you see fit. :)
That would be nasty indeed . Some of the lifts look a little dangerous . The Gm dealer I worked for had a hoist single big hydraulic ram i the centre it dropped 2 feet suddenly good thing I was not standing straight but bent over .
Great review. I have a couple questions for you. I have been having my vehicles Krown's for the past few years. It has gotten very expensive every year as well as I have 4 vehicles now to get sprayed each year. I plan to purhase the FF sprayer and start using that product. My 2 questions are, in this video, do you only spray these once per year & during the winter, what is your wash process? I typically just wash the body of the vechile and will lightly spray off the underside to get any lose salt off. I assume that will not wash the FF away?
Products used in this video:
Surface Shield Gallon: amzn.to/2YpscVq
Surface Shield 5 Gallon: amzn.to/30rrrvK
Surface Shield Aerosol: amzn.to/3BIUgk8
Fluid Film: amzn.to/3mQbiZy
Woolwax: amzn.to/3wmpbS1
Professional Spray Gun: amzn.to/3bIN9gX
Aerosol Can Spray Handle: amzn.to/3EUpE1b
Graffiti Adapters for Blaster Cans (only needed for older male top blaster cans): amzn.to/3CPi5rX
Inner Cavity Spray Wand for Aerosol:amzn.to/3NNtZbP
Wireless Borescope: amzn.to/3CPdCoV
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
The biggest thing that I have found with any of the Lanolin undercoatings is people always want to know what is "best". Your application of the product plays a larger role in it's performance than the coating itself. To me this is like talking about the "best" motor oil. Like motor oil, you can run the "best" oil on the market but you still need to change your oil. If you don't keep up with your maintenance, your motor oil will turn to sludge regardless of the oil that you use. That is how to need to feel about these coatings. Some of these coatings are better than others but, they will all stop rust if they are touched up yearly with and properly maintained. If you want to use Fluid Film go for it. If you want to use Woolwax, do it. Surface Shield creeps and migrates like Fluid Film but will resist wash-off like Woolwax. That is why I'm switching. It doesn't make Fluid Film or Woolwax bad products I have proven that they both can work well. I want to see if Surface Shield can live up to it's claim of going 2 years without a re-coat.
Good work, I appreciate it.
It maybe redundant content for you. For us consumers, it gives confidence in the products. Plus, we all like to see the reality of the long term protection and durability of these products. 22:24
@@js12278 Good deal, where?
@@ureasmith3049 my error. The product I found was NOT Surface Shield. It was their Corrosion Stop protectant. ZERO lanolin
I will be looking for quantities of Surface Shield.
if you already have rust, is it worth just coating it to slow it down? or is it only good to use it before u get rust?
People want to see you do this for 10 to 15 years when vehicles get too far gone and see whether fluid film works on a long long term basis. Keeping making them because nobody ever has done that on video. Great Job and excellent analysis brother!
Twenty three years ago I purchased a new Ford Excursion, in the Ohio rust belt. I coated it every 3 years with Fluid Film. Today, at 350,000 miles, it has no rust anywhere. Wish I would’ve taken pictures/video of the process over the years.
My friend has a 2002 Jeep and a 2003 BMW that he purchased new and has rustproofed them with this from day one. They still look new. Based on his experience, I have done the same with my Jeep Gladiator Mojave.
I really appreciate these videos. Because it's real proof that these products work. For such a long time it was hard to know what products ACTUALLY worked versus what didn't versus what might actually encourage rust and corrosion (I'm looking at you rubberized coatings that crack...). Largely because of your videos, we bought a spray gun and 5 gallon buckets of fluid film to undercoat our own vehicles (small business and our personal vehicles in Vermont).
how do u get under the car without a lift
@@randomrazr If you don't have a vehicle with enough ground clearance, get a set of ramps you can drive the car up on to. You'll have to lay on your back.
We use nh undercoating an fluid film. Sometimes if its a little thuck we cut it with premium hydraulic oil or bar an chain oil but not much.
What is the particular gun u use to spray??
👍👍 Never stop updating! As an end user/customer, I want to know what to buy and how it performs. You are doing a great service by reducing/eliminating much of the guesswork for the common people whom don't do this on a regular basis. 👌
Keep up these videos! They're the reason I found this channel. Honestly, the repetition of these videos every year is what makes them valuable. Too many people post videos about spraying the film on, but very few people actually post quality, detailed content about how it holds up and protects the car. Your videos on this topic are extremely valuable to me at least! Thanks
I used surface shield after watching your videos. Your reviews seem the most non BS non promotion of products out there. Thank you.
I recommend if youre spraying first time check your work in the dark with a light, it makes it VERY easy to see where you missed when its still wet and the rest of the underbody is matte.
I did the pb blaster surface shield on my new 250, took 7 cans . Thank you for reviewing that product 👍
learned of PB blaster IN TEXAS, i just moved there and had to find a machinist real quick,small jobs and turning transmission drums are a must,i also had a set of valuable cylinder heads machined,i asked the machinist what he uses to stop rust on machined surfaces,he said they had tried almost everything till they learned of pb blaster,he said we only use it on cranks,rods and cylinder heads that have been cut and smoothed,he said it is only good for that purpose,out of the rain[direct] and just deals with humidity from texas,oklahoma,and kansas and mo wet air,for rust we used undercoated tar [asphalt in the 50's on] now ziebart and this fluid flim,when i restore one,i don't want to lose it to the elements this rust situation is an ongoing problem with high dollar toys
Wow! I really appreciate that you've tested these! I don't think for a minute that you're pushing a product.. I'm just thrilled that you've done the legwork on this! Thanks!
My personal experience with Cosmoline and FF: Cosmoline on clean surface. FF on rusted surface. Cosmoline on rusted surface accelerated the rust, much like rubberized undercoating. FF washes off too easy to protect all winter long.
Once I exhaust my supplies, I will try Surface Shield. It looks interesting.
You have some of the best content for true blind product comparisons. I have utilized your videos and insight to protect our vehicles. Very much appreciated.
I have more comparisons coming.
Excellent review! So many just show the first year/ application of the product. We all want to know long term how this all works and if it's worth it. Your reviews do that! Thank you for your great and honest reviews! Having a 4 or 5 or 8 year old vehicle with little to no rust while traveling the rust-belt salt-covered roads is great!! Don't try to convince the nay-sayer's...know you are doing a worth-while thing for the rest of us!
Way back, my aversion to rust began with my Tonka truck! Just found you, fellow OH-IOian here. Binge watching to catch up!!!
I am super thankful for all your efforts and candid no nonsense.
Love it man! Lunch on me when in Columbus
Thank you for doing this. I live in the rust belt. I had a brake line failure due to rust and had to replace the lines on the vehicle. I sprayed the lines on my other vehicle to head off a similar problem. I wish I had seen a video similar to yours 10 years ago. What you are doing has value. People who do this will have less maintenance expense and have greater resale value for a small annual cost. Whether people listen or want to bitch is out of your control...don't worry about it.
FF is made by a large family owned company in South San Francisco, WoolWax is made by Bob Smith who owns Kellsport Products in Rhode Island. Bob was having trouble getting deliverys from FF, so he went out on his own, and manufactures WW locally, and is a great guy! I prefer woolwax, its thicker and has much less smell
Who the hell is using fluid film in California
@@greengoat5654 it was originally created for the navy in the 1940's.
@@greengoat5654socal here, had same question. Since he said the Navy, and I live in a beach city, I'm thinking maybe I should get it
Bro you're single handedly helping keep my aging 2011 f150 as rust free as possible for a daily work truck. Thanks.
I wouldn't say single handedly. I'm pretty sure you're mostly involved in that process haha. I just started all of this because I was sick of having vehicles that rot out.
In the UK there’s a product that was originally named Finnegans Waxoyl. It’s now has changed the name to Hammerite Waxoyl. Same product and can be found on the web using either name. This product kills rust, self heals and drives out any moisture. Spray it into all cavities and crevices. Avoid some plastics and rubbers etc and obviously braking surfaces.
Keep the yearly updates coming! Been following this all along and really enjoy the detail. I am doing a mini test myself this year - I used Surface Shield on one jeep based on your last video and Fluid Film on the other and am going to see which holds up better. Also just bought that borescope - looking forward to seeing what my inner rockers and frame looks like.
Looking forward to your results. Getting ready to prep my Jeep for its first winter.
I was sold on FF...been using for years....now I'm going over to Surface shield for next season...thanks for the info!!!
Great series of videos. Been following a long time. The pressure washer to the Blaster Surface Shield a while back sold me for sure. Just put 7 cans on my Jeep Gladiator and 6 cans on Infiniti Qx50. Thanks for your thorough testing and reviews!
about to go buy surface shield and put it on my XJ (it's rusty underneath from living in a rust belt state most of its life but nothing structural) and I want to keep it from getting any worse
as others have stated I very much enjoy your thorough approach to testing... excited for more content to come
Try killing the rust with muriatic acid first.
Thats what im trying on my truck where rust has already formed.
@@Iamfirebird360 definitely worth a shot! I'll try it out and see if it helps any
@@xIrHaxor how’s the Jeep looking now?
Been waiting for this followup. Kudos for your dedication and thoroughness!
Uhh, the way you labeled it, the Fluid Film outdoor test metal looks better to me than the Blaster, at least on camera. Great video! Honestly, I think FF, WW, and SS all do the job well and will keep a vehicle rust free if applied at least every 2 years. The videos are great because you are actually testing them long term. I know it feels redundant, but they are not because of the time passing. That's what we all really want to know. How does it do over time? Us FF users put up with a lot of stink using this stuff, so we like seeing that it is worth it!
The Fluid Film looks cleaner color wise but, the top edge is starting to rust. Whenever I do this pole testing the rust always starts at the top and works it way down the test piece.
I wipe some of it off here and the surface shield is clean underneath. th-cam.com/video/NE1_EiZIVHs/w-d-xo.html
I agree. The FF one looks much better!
Up to this point, you have been comparing two products which give, in your opinion, identical results. In this video, you explain why you expect more durability from Surface Shield in comparison to Fluid Film and Woolwax. Surface shield is made by the same company that makes PB Blaster, which most mechanics agree is better than other penetrating oils for disassembly of rusted/corroded metal joints. Looking forward to next year's results!
I found your videos over a year ago when I was starting to buy a 2020 Tacoma. I coated my new truck last year in October with fluid film. This yeah I did it again with fluid film. I used 5 cans on the Tacoma the first time and 4 cans this year. It seemed like some was still on w lot of places high up. That and the Tacoma has a composite bed so I didn't need to spray any of the bed underside.
My truck still looks new.
I couldn't seem to find surface shield near me so I will continue with it until I can find surface shield.
I’ve been using fluid film for 3 years now in NJ and the only rust spots that pop up are on the leaf springs where it rubs off. The stuff works great.
I appreciate you doing this year over year. Please keep going!
I am up in geauga. I have a leased ram 1500 that i got last november. It already had rust forming all over on the frame. My uncles 2 year old gmc 1500 has a good amount of rust on the frame and also a lease. Have a 2009 f550 at work that i fluid film every year and is used as a plow/salt truck. It has very little rust on it for its age. No doubt the stuff works. I have switched to wool wax but will be going to PB. Thanks for your videos.
Is there any way to spray the product from a bulk 3.78L paint can without fancy gear?
What a great view with the scope cam! Love all the proof from your work!
I hope your staying healthy it's been a crazy year, have a good day!
From my experience over the years; I’m 64 years old. The driver side of a vehicle gets more corrosive contamination, because on coming traffic sprays your vehicle’s driver’s side versus the passenger side.
I used fluid film to coat the leaf springs on my boat trailer on an island surrounded by salt & wind. After one summer by springs looked brand new and still had almost all the paint on them. The boat next to mine that was newer than mine already had extensive rust. I coated them for 10 years, often just once a year and never any sign of rust. Love Fluid Film.
Thanks for the update videos. I am going to do my 2014 Jeep Rubicon that has spent it's life in Georgia until I just recently moved to northern Michigan with some Surface Shield.
Interesting. The aerosols for SS are a couple bucks cheaper than FF and WW at home depot and other places. But the gallon of SS is 40 percent more expensive. I bought 5 gallon pail of woolwax last year. Only use about a gallon a year on my truck. I'm gonna use aerosol cans of this SS in the panels and inside doors since it is thinner and creeps better.
Back in 1943 ( not positive about the year ) US NAVY helped or requested Fluid Film Company creat this product for application in their double bottom ship to stop or slow down RUST.
I've been using FLUID FILM for about twenty years and PB BLASTER maybe 10 or more yeas on the farm.
Both are great products when it comes to RUST!!!
What’s the process for touch up application in year 2? Clean the whole underside, let dry & reapply. Or just reapply to dirt and dust that has collected?? Something more?
I'm with Joshua Griffes . You've done a whole lot of people all over the place a great service which many of us cannot do because of lack of equipment and knowledge. Thanks for your research and postings. I looked up Fluid Film, because it was in a users group entry. Your video was the first I viewed. Excellent.
I appreciate these updates. When it comes to rust no new news is good news. 👍👍
Excellent analysis of the products for your guys in the northern states. No rust issues here in California!!
Thanks for these real world, long term reviews!
Thank you for your videos, so far I love this product, I can’t say enough about this product! 👏
The dedication to make these videos is awesome. Vehicle science.
I have a 5yo car too, never applied anything and it's in a great shape with no rust on the bottom
Wow in the inside of those panels and braces looked like they were treated yesterday...Won't be worrying about brake lines rusting out for decades...Amazing! Tremendous Product...I lived a half mile from the Plant where the Colorados are made for 30 years. Live about 10 miles away now. Hope they are holding up well for you guys. Mechanical and interior wise. Great Videos! This eally shows real world abuse and results.
One of the few things i love about living in California is the weather, or lack-there-of. My 2010 Audi S4 has less rust on it even though it's been parked on the street and not my garage for 10 of those 13 years. But I actually came here doing research about dealing with rust on my old man's 1999 Toyota 4runner which became apparent to me while replacing the automatic shifter bushings the other day, and noticed the front control arm end links were snapped and there was quite a bit of rust on everything. I'm gonna get back under it tomorrow to install the new end links and will bring a little ball peen hammer to give everything a few taps to see how bad it really is.
Another fantastic video, hats off to you! .The borescope video is the proof that this works. The tip on those adapters is a great one- I tried, but could not get the 3M wands to stay on the Blaster cans. It's a shame, because the 3M wands are longer and more stiff for working into places the limp Woolwax aerosol can wands cannot. I'm not sure if there's a practical difference compared to Woolwax, but the Blaster's superior creep makes it a great choice for inner cavities.
I have a new van and Jeep to protect, but I'm thinking of using the Woolwax and Blaster I have to coat the hidden surfaces, and the more Cosmoline-like CRC Corrosion Inhibitor on exposed areas where it would the treatment would be easier to dislodge. I will probably use the Blaster or Woolwax on rotating masses like the driveshafts/halfshafts where the weight of the waxy CRC could (theoretically) cause a balance issue.
One question- the roadside angle iron samples- it looks like the FlluidFilm piece is minimally corroded, but the Blaster piece has a rusty color. Is that just an accumulation of dirt on still-adhering Blaster, and the FluidFilm just washed off along with embedded dirt?
The blaster product has changed colors in the past 10 months but it's not rusty underneath: th-cam.com/video/NE1_EiZIVHs/w-d-xo.html
Yes the FF has mostly washed off from rain and I think partially, the summer heat. In this testing the rust always starts on top like you see with FF and then works it's way down the face.
Fluid film should be re applied annually. Preferably every fall.
I power wash every fall and then reapply...
I have the spray gun and I just keep piling on the layers year by year. Its getting pretty thick ;)
Thanks for doing the testing on these products. I'm having my 2016 pickup redone. The place I am going to uses Fluid Flim. I think I'll talk to them about Blasters product. Thanks again.
Wow, great videos on this. So detailed. I think this is a maintenance thing as well as a product thing. As in absolutely maintaining that film barrier before the salt season. When you have some rust from abrasion or what ever, touch up the paint in that spot. I’m in the market to get a new to me truck. I just ordered a gun and a 5 gal of the surface shield from all of this great info you have provided.
When spraying any of these bulk products, get a pressure gun. No overspray. The product goes right on the surface. I don't know how the spray cans work. This year, I'm trying waxoyl hard wax undercoating. Here in Central New York State, fluid film doesn't even last through the winter. For inside door panels and places not subject to spray or abrasion, it works fine. I also added electronic cathodic rustproofing.
It's damn rare for me to subscribe and hit the bell on any channel, but yours is worth it.
Keep going with the videos. Im just in WV with the same weather as you in OH. I spend alot of money on vehicles and want them to last as long as possible. I appreciate your work.
PLEASE keep makn these videos. I often come back like now & get reinformed. I hope U dont get bored. Bu the way, love ur Colorado!!👍
Im in NW Ohio. Just found your channel. It’s very informative. Thank you
I started going to krown rust proofing but im thinking about switching over to doing it myself with the PB stuff you use. Thank you for the informative video.
The lift makes a world of difference. Doing this in my driveway with Jack and jack stands works but not as easyily.
I know, that's why I bought one. 😆 Thanks for watching.
Please keep doing these updates year after year! Love the content!
Wow,,great to see after 4 years !!
I've got a new to me 2016 TUNDRA and hope to defeat rust from eating my truck with one of these products.
I'm considering having it done vs me doing it just because of them being able to get in doors and tailgate etc.
Do you use surface shield inside door cavitys and rockers?
Yes.
I am in Wisconsin and they love salt during winter. I just got my first five gallon pail. $285.00 plus shipping.
Thanks for these videos - well thought our presentation and application. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
if one does not pull off bumper covers, you will not know if you've covered it all, including bumper cover retaining brackets under the headlights common on non-trucks ....also don't forget pulling back trunk interior liners, spraying the floor if parking cables come through under the center console....ask me how I know.
Every year I come back here to see your opinion / experiments
I really appreciate your videos and all the work you've done. Thank you!
That looks better than my 2016 Tacoma, I did switch to Surface Sheild this year, it took a few months to become available at Home Depot.
Is it ok to get a new truck undercoated this time of year (January)? Or is it better to wait until spring?
Mr Repair Geek thanks for the videos... very informative! Keep them coming. Quick question when reapplying after 1 year, do you usually clean the previous residue off that has dirt and debris on it or do you spot patch where you can see there is no fluid film residue. Thanks again!!!!
No I just go right over top of what is there from the year prior.
These are very highly appreciated videos thank you so much for taking the time and effort to document this very valuable information! I’m going to be buying a brand new car soon and I’m very particular about protecting and making my things last. So I will definitely be coating my new car after seeing how well this product has held up and protected your vehicle through the harsh winters we have to go endure ! Honestly after seeing your videos and research on the product it makes the decision on how to protect your investment very clear! I was sceptical at first of the product but I put in a wheel well went through a winter and it’s still there even with the road spray so it’s a durable product even though it appears to be thin like it will just wash off. And thanks again I will definitely continue to watch this videos! As I find it very interesting, entertaining and smart lol !
EXCELLENT Video. I see in your video you don't remove the tires and don't cover the breaks with plastic. I have seen other videos where they do cover the breaks. Should I just follow how you do it? Will ovrspary on breaks cause any issues?
Great videos... really enjoy these rust shield vids... would be great to see your take on paint finish protection...
It's in the works. Be patient haha.
Love the videos. I know it's the same ol' thing but it's great. I started selling this stuff locally. I spray it on for folks. Nice extra $$$
How much are you charging ,?? I am in New York, so my pricing may end up different
@@embreesmith7613 depends on the vehicle obviously but 200$ or so for pick ups, a Toyota 4Runner about 180$. 3500 pick ups 250
That’s really impressive. I wish they could find an alternative to the salt, it causes so much damage I have to wonder how much it helps.
Thanks for sharing your experience with these products.
Thanks for doing this mini test, much appreciated.
I do NOT think of you as being full of “crap” …
BUT rather a very honest reporter on research …
Thank you for all your extensive good work !
Big draw for me is Blaster states it won’t attack rubber.
Fluid Film won't attack rubber either. I spray the chassis of my vehicles and make no effort to avoid CV boots, ball joints, and so on. Rubber is perfect after several years of FF treatment.
Looks good. I coated my frames because your videos. I like the updates.
Thank you for your time to make these videos great information
That is amazing! If you're from the rust belt you know. I guess I'm sold on that stuff.
I used wool wax for the first time on a 2013 ram and got some on the exhaust and it even holds up on that
Blaster says it's too much hassle to sell Surface Shield (but not their other products) in Canada, so it will be Fluid Film on some parts of the undercarriage (seams,etc) and wool wax on the wear areas. Your videos are very well done. Thanks for the info.
Been using fluid film for awhile. I get it by the gallon and brush it on. I'm in ct. Great detail with the boriscope.
you can use a cheap plug in paint sprayer from harbor freight been applying it that way for 2yrs now.
Thought about getting one, but was hesitant due to issues with clogging up.
Get an undercoating gun. Sprays Fluid Film perfectly.
There’s a product that a lot of people are starting to use here in Maine called NH oil undercoating. A repair shop nearby from where I live,switched from fluid film to NH oil a couple of years ago and they claim it’s a much better product as it creeps much more and doesn’t wash off.
Watch his first undercoating video. NH oil didn’t do well.
But a second video found that a newer formulation of NHOU oil did much better: th-cam.com/video/9SOOfZFmhSY/w-d-xo.html
Also, some of us can't spray our own vehicles, so we have to use whatever a professional will spray. In my area (Michigan), the only professional options are Krown, NHOU, and rubberized.
Since his video found that Krown doesn't work at all, while NHOU works okay, I went with NHOU. I might have gone with Fluid Film, Wool Wax, or Surface Shield if there was a professional who would apply it for me, but there isn't.
Great videos...please continue with the yearly updates. I'm in CBUS, when can I bring my truck up to Akron...LoL
I did spot treatment this year with Surface Shield. I cant wait until they have 1 gallon surface shield.
Just showed up on Amazon today. Check the pinned comment. I have a link to it there.
@@RepairGeek SWEEEEEET
Thanks for the update, I live in Ohio & was wondering if this will be worth using. I will definitely be doing this with the next vehicle.
Please keep making this serious. I just got a new truck and this is super helpful
Love the borescope shots.
Paint the exhaust with high heat barbecue/stove paint. It will help it last several year longer than just letting it rust away.
Do the Graffitti adaptors make the Surface Shield spray properly??
I ask because the Blaster Surface Shield reviews are poor due to the cans not spraying properly.
Thanks in advance for your replies.
only difference i see on your truck is fluid film attracts less dirt. in the UK we use Bilt Hamber dynax for our coatings be interesting to see you test those.
I have a jug of "HinderRust" made by the guy that formulated Kroil (orange spray cans).
I sprayed it under my Montero a couple years ago. There are reports it spreads out on its own. Also, if you get it on a painted surface it's very difficult to remove and new paint won't stick. It appears to be about the same color and viscosity as Blaster Shield.
"Master Blaster?"
Looks like surface shield works great but man it looks terribly messy. It appears to always be wet and I can only imagine how messy it will be when the truck needs worked on. There is a product from Amsoil that seems to dry up and be less messy.
Wow! Very impressive! A must for the rust belt.
Surface shield sounds good but it's a lot more $$ ....a consideration for me especially since fluid film has been working great for me.
Aerosol is comparable in price to FF. Bulk seems to be more expensive but today is the first day I've seen a price on the bulk. It may drop with time. Either one will work for you.
The paraffinic oil in FF is high viscosity; the naphthenic oil in SS is low viscosity; both are petroleum products but the SS product flows a lot easier than the FF product because of the viscosity difference.
Great long term review man! Awesome info. One this is for sure. These products will pay for themselves on any vehicle you plan to keep long term. They'll pay for themselves in disassembly time for any repairs alone! Would love to see you test Barrier Bond if you see fit. :)
Your efforts are much appreciated.
Looking good repaire geek well done good explaining thats good camera you cant see just about e everything
Careful with all that wool wax on the frame and the lift arm pads so that you don't knock it off.
That would be nasty indeed . Some of the lifts look a little dangerous . The Gm dealer I worked for had a hoist single big hydraulic ram i the centre it dropped 2 feet suddenly good thing I was not standing straight but bent over .
Great review. I have a couple questions for you. I have been having my vehicles Krown's for the past few years. It has gotten very expensive every year as well as I have 4 vehicles now to get sprayed each year. I plan to purhase the FF sprayer and start using that product. My 2 questions are, in this video, do you only spray these once per year & during the winter, what is your wash process? I typically just wash the body of the vechile and will lightly spray off the underside to get any lose salt off. I assume that will not wash the FF away?