*Fluid Film 11.75 oz. Spray 3-Pak, Spray can Extension Wand: amzn.to/2DqB1mB *Fluid Film 1 Gallon Can Rust Inhibitor: amzn.to/2OMrfw2 *Fluid Film Pro Undercoating Gun: amzn.to/2DoEVfz **Fluid Film Undercoating Kit 1 Gallon with PRO Spray Gun, bottles, and everything you need**amzn.to/2DpljIo
South Main Auto Repair Hey Eric I was wondering I have a 2003 Chevy avalanche 5.3 it’s in really good shape for being a Michigan car. It has some surface rust on the frame not flaking. The paint rockers and the wheel wells look brand new. Here in Michigan we put a lot of salt down too and salt brine are dirt roads as well would this benefit my truck?
Take it to toyota dealership if they find rust deformation they might replace frame under recall campaign, dealership pay nothing, toyota is paying for parts labor I worked for them thank me later
I live in the rust belt myself. Bought a fluid film pro kit years ago. Use it once a year in October to coat my late model truck. Drilled doors, tailgate whole 9 yards. Easy two hour job once a year. It saves your vehicle. No doubt about it.... Period.
Tacoma guys swear by Fluid Film so I figured I would start using it on my Chevy truck. Works great! 5 years old, lived in the rust belt its whole life, and the underside of the truck is 100% rust free. Even the crappy factory frame coating is in really good shape. The truck does smell like a heard of wet sheep for a few weeks but I'll take that over rust.
Love to see a good, honest mechanic. I stoped useing mechs at 21yo after Bering ripped off too many times. Bought a shop manual on every vehicle I've owned. And tools. + many, many hours, swet, and yes bloody knuckles. Haha. Now at 66 yo I just don't have energy for it.
A customer from Mass, this was in Md, back in the 80s, told me in western Mass they they would spray used oil on the bottom of the vehicles and then run them down a dirt road. Worked great. When we were welding on a new panel I had to stand fire patrol as we were afraid it might go up. But no problem and better yet no rust anywhere on that car. So though I was first skeptical an oil based film like that does work.
I believe you have to reapply it every year when used as undercoating. I sprayed some in my wheel wells and it seems to be holding up so far. Have to reapply soon.
I Fluid Filmed my doors, rockers and cab corners about mid summer. I was a little concerned about it plugging up the weep holes too but we had some weather in the mid to upper 90's for a few weeks after that and a lot of leaked back out. Where it ran to the bottom outsides of the doors, it actually creeped up the outsides of the doors a couple of inches. If you can do this while it's still hot out, you should get some good creep and travel out of the product so it will get into the little nooks and sandwiched parts of your truck or car. Good stuff!
Just watched the video and as a driver of a Ram 1500 here in Sweden, I can recommend tecthyle based rust inhibitors. We used that on our cars here and the average length between application is 3 years depending on usage. I applied it to my Ram this summer for the winter together with rustblocker on the rustspots on the truck and it is good to go. That one is also sticky and stays sticky even if the top layer gets dust and "dries" but it does the job really well!
I’m so glad I watched this video!! I literally just had 3 cans delivered today, I was going to attempt to apply it myself. I think I’m going to have my mechanic apply it for me so he can put it on the lift. Thanks my man!!
Here in Wisconsin land of the rust buckets. Just replaced all the brake lines, 2000 Silverado; Napa had a 10 piece stainless replacement kit. Was out of state when they rusted through. 3 days later I am back on the road again. Great video. Thumbs Up !
Good to see this information is being made available to the rust belt in the US. I live in Ontario and have been getting my vehicles sprayed for over 40 years commercially. Usually Krown or Rust Check. It's an annual event and if your going to keep your vehicle over 3 years or so the only way to prevent rust. Annual cost is $100 or so depending on the vehicle size. The commercial businesses drill holes and spay inside the doors, fenders etc. It should be noted that rust really happens during the warmer summer periods as the heat inside the doors etc. really cooks the process. You can spot the oil sprayed vehicles as the bottom corners of the doors tend to look a little dirty from a thin film of oil creeping out and getting some dust until the next car wash, but no rust. It should be noted that the city and provincial snow/salt trucks are also sprayed with the same process.
@allanbowes6952 For $100 you get about 0.5 hrs. That means they are not spaying inside cavities, pillars, doors, tail gates, and fenders, where most of rust occurs. Driving over dusty roads after treatment is very important. Getting into rockers is also critical.
It was like watching my wife's Roomba Vacuum cleaner. There's no apparent pattern to it but at the end it all seems to be done. I'm so happy I don't have to deal with that kind of rust.
Yep, a spatula is the way to go. It is amazing how many kitchen tools have application in the garage. Hard to beat a turkey baster when working with brake fluid.
Lets all take a moment and give thanks to Fluid Film. Without it my 02 4Runner would be a rotted out hooptie by now. Because of Fluid Film she still is pristine underneath. Smells good too when applying it. Most 3rd gen 4runners I see around here look like they spent a year sat the bottom of the ocean.
I do the same to my RAV4. Here in MA they salt the roads a lot. This stuff helps slow down the rusting a lot. Stinks pretty bad, but just for a few days. Thanks
Watching this video and seeing other videos where you have to fight through the crusty rusties makes me grateful I live in the desert. I changed the rear drums on my truck a year ago and they're still shiny silver through the wheels.
2006 impala SS with 108k in Buffalo, used fluid film every fall and the underside just has some scale and under the doors is perfect. I swear by the stuff. I bought the "pro kit" off amazon for pretty cheap.
I lived in Germany, and my mechanic would coat the bottom of my Jeep with automatic transmission fluid. He used a spray gun to apply it. Worked great 8 years with no rust. He said the reason he used automatic transmission fluid is that it would not cause ruber deterioration.
Rick Adams, Your mech was correct. I have used ATF for years to keep rust off of tools that I used with corrosive fluids. Soaking metal in ATF will arrest corrosion also.
J Bone yeah it’d be horrible if every car on the road did it, but I’ll bet that 1 in 5000 at most do. Most people put gas in their tanks and that’s it for maintenance
Having a lift for this project is where it's at, I know from experience that it's not this ez while laying on your back with just some jack stands holding up the car!
Gino 1984 , I gave a thumbs down to this video. I agree that SMA is an excellent channel however this particular segment struck me more as a paid advertisement. I like Eric’s typical diagnostic analysis of a problem to identity the root cause versus throwing new parts at it. When a channel starts to push a particular product I begin to question its independence. I don’t fault Eric for attempting to supplement his income by monetizing his youtube celebrity status as long as we’re honest what were “selling” here.
@@frankmcgowan1521 if you don't fault him then why thumbs down it? Also he has been using fluid film since way before his channel was big. Also why does him "selling" as you describe if its a good product to help people deserve a thumbs down?
Gino 1984 , I gave the video a thumbs down as I was disappointed it turned into a 23 minute commercial. I now don’t know if fluid film is a “good product” because I don’t know if it is being recommended by Eric, the salesman or Eric, the upstate NY technician extraordinaire. I like his channel because Eric comes across as honest, creative and resourceful. If Eric wants to be a “celebrity endorser” he has every right to do so, just let his subscribers know up front.
Whatever None if he did get paid for this he risks his youtube channel by not reporting it, you really think he would do that? I think he just likes the product and wanted to make a vid about it.
Make sure you silicone your door seals - I have a 2009 Tacoma that was Krown'd since new and it ruined the rubber seals around the doors and more recently I've had some rubber lines split. I have a 2013 Accord that I had Krown'd last winter (I bought it used) and the same thing happened to the seals after just one treatment. Not sure whether they re-formulated the product or newer cars have rubber seals more prone to swelling but I'm going to give Fluid Film a try this winter.
UPDATE: I've been using Fluid Film the last 2 winters and I'm very pleased with the results. The product is still wet come spring time. No visible signs of rust and seems to stick better in the wheel wells.
great product, I use it on a lot of our customers boat-trailers and they can't believe how good it works and how long it lasts (and some always ends up under my chivvy)
Enjoy your videos. Fluid Filmed my new aluminum F150. Got the straw on-line for about $5. Used at least 6 cans of FF. Anxious to see the results next spring. See what I missed. Respirator, or mask, is a must. I breathed some of that stuff and smelled it for a couple days. Shot everything that looked like steel.
The rustiest truck I ever saw was a “Florida power and light” truck. Spent its whole life getting sprayed with ocean mist and driving on the beach. A guy I worked with bought it for $500 and drove it around, I couldn’t believe it held together. It looked like Swiss cheese!
Here in the UK we have a product called Waxoyl that looks exactly like Fluid Film, manufactured by Finnegans. My dad swore by it and I still use it nowadays, it came with a pressure sprayer and tubes like yours, we used to add pinholes with a hot pin to give a more '360' area to the spray (putting them in the tube). Best thing ever as these never go hard and trap moisture behind, as you say in your other video, the tarry ones are rubbish. It is just the world's messiest procedure, especially if you warmed the can in warm water to make it runnier; went everywhere on the car but also everywhere on the driveway. Other than that, a great product.
I remember waxoilong the chassis on my old Scimitar. The next year, I needed to weld in a patch. The heat from the welder ignited the wax in the chassis, and I wasn't prepared to extinguish a fire which I couldn't even see! BTW, if you leave the can in a bucket of hot water, you can pour it out much more easily. And you're right, you'll have a headache for days if you're not careful..
i live outside st louis, missouri. there has not been one year i can remember that we didn't get some snow. the winter of '11-'12 was really mild. so yea, there's a lot of rusty vehicles here. but that being said I'm glad we don't see nowhere near the snow that this guy must see. just purchased an old nissan 4x4 in real good shape and will invest in a couple cans for it.
Welp, I learned that this stuff is wayy better than rubberized undercoating. I used that black Nasty stuff on my dad's old truck he left me.. Sadly a few years later the frame was completely rotted. Wish I had gone this route & saw your channel sooner. Thanks for sharing bud! 🇺🇸 Watchin from up in the corner in Maine
Just completed spraying 2015 f250 with fluid film. The application was pretty straightforward, I used a spray gun with straight wand and 360 wand. 50 degree day today, sprayed at 70'to 90 psi. What really helped the spraying is warming fluid. Hot water bath worked well to warm, I tried turbo heater 1st, but melted plastic bucket. What really shocked me was the amount of dirt in truck frame and rails,after washing bottom, a shovel full! I highly suggest lots of air spraying after the wash. I'm happy with result, 1 gallon with a little left over, good luck!
Eric next time sit the plastic bottles in a bucket of hot water for 20 minutes and it should thin out a bit a spray better especially when doing inside box sections with 360 Degree tips
Great video yet again! The science ( moisture + salt + heat) = CORROSION. A good solution: Oil spray keeps the water off the metal. In Vermont we use husky summer grade bar and chain oil heated in a crock pot. A good old air paint spray gun with 80 PSI atomizes it well. TIP : Heating whatever oil you use makes application easier.
After watching the tests, and using it myself, CRC and FFilm are the best. They can be washed and still remain to protect. I light coating once a year in off spots is what I do. I would rather get a bit of dust than rust any day!:)
I have used it on my car and under mower deck. Makes grass come off the deck much easier. You need to let it dry under your mower deck for a week before you use it. Under and around your car it works pretty good. Bad thing is it likes to collect a lot of dirt.
Or drive the old Jeep Cherokee with a 4.0 inline 6. I never had one that didn't leak out of the rear main seal. Even after replacement. Didn't burn a drop of oil but I used half to a full quart between each oil change.
From another Upstate New Yorker, well done. Love your channel. BTW, anyone wanting to know why we're so obsessed with salting the roads? Follow the money. Someone has lucrative contracts with our contract-happy State and they're not lettin' go gently.
The best is the last little snow falls in March. They put as much Salt down as they can. Their reasoning: “If we don’t use it all this year then we can’t order __ tons next year because we didn’t use it all.” And that is why the roads are white damn near till the end of April.
Most ironically, within 1 minute of you posting this video tonight, I had just arrived on your channel to show my wife (who is from TX) your recent rusty Subaru video to show how awful it is up in my home area!
Something satisfying about doing your own rust proofing. You get the job you want done. We have a really good guy who does Krown on both my vehicles each year.
Len M. The really really big ones are nice and quiet on account of how large the chambers are to compress the air. You can hide them outside or in a wall somewhere and you’ll never really hear them
I was in the early 1970 in the German Airforce Base and they put me to helping out getting unimops heavy trucks to the TUV, Technical inspection. They mixed an awesom mixture of about 50 of old motor oil and the remaining 50 present disel. After a few minutes the other guys stem learning the undercarriage off. It turn up amazing. I was an young man than, I am old now and thinking back on the old-timers and what they come up with what they got.
I feel your pain Eric just starting to work on the rust on my 2010 Ford Transit rust, they salt the roads here all winter as well at the first sign of frost, gets so bad sometimes the salt creates a white film on car bodywork. We use a product called Waxoyl this side of the pond
We call it "Michigan cancer" around here, and no car is immune... even my plastic-bodied Saturn Ion has rust issues on the floorpan that I had to repair. Fieros are another victim of that - you can't see the rust happening under those plastic body panels. The upper rear frame rails go right over the rear wheels, and have holes in them that catch the (salty) water and cause them to rust out from the inside.
Interesting somebody has mentioned Waxoyl. I have been using Waxoyl on my vehicles in UK for years . A little tip / observation though , from experience. Use the Black Waxoyl . I have found it is much better than the "clear" (actually kind of yellow) . I am not sure why there is any difference other than the colour , but I'm guessing the black variety has some bitumen in there. The black lasts for ever , I have an F150 (a 97) which I thoroughly waxoyled back in 2009 , and it is still spotless and completely black underneath. I have a Toyota Crown (also a 97) which I did with clear waxoyl around 2011 and that is getting ready to be done again . Some areas the clear waxoyl has disappeared / worn away completely . So , when using waxoyl , the black is MUCH better and longer lasting .
My Dad once had a Holden Premier. Holden are a GM Australia product, or once were. It had a bad oil leak for years and had also been sprayed with a product called Tectyl which was a rust preventative. When we pulled the engine to repair the leak for him, the crossmember was coated with old oil and road grime up to half an inch thick. We gave it a good pressure wash and all the areas previously covered with the engine oil and crud under the car were absolutely immaculate with no rust and not a mark. On the contrary large areas of the treated metalwork was beginning to rust.
I prefer the DIY kit because as Eric O mentioned you can unscrew bolts to spray in recessed areas instead of having your vehicle drilled with holes to be later filled with body plugs. I cringe at the thought of drilling my vehicles so Fluid film for the win! The Tundra looked pretty clean underneath since the last Krown visit. :-)
So glad Missouri isnt so bad for salt as the vehicles I've seen in your vids, I usually wash my truck alot anyways but other trucks of the same or newer are rusting on the bedsides already though around here. I did end up spraying some undercoat in my rear wheel wells and on the frame in a couple spots to try to prevent some.
Eric's gone full Ivan on us with the headlight! Although I'm not a fan of using 'wax' on anything but shiny new metal, especially over oil based films but as Grandma always told me, anything is better than nothing! Over here I just use 'sump oil' Eric but we don't have Salt Laced Roads like you guys get! You're gonna be wishing you wore overalls! If I could offer one 'tip' make sure you get INSIDE cavities where salt/mud can collect & NEVER, EVER PULL OUT TOO SOON! Great vid! 👍
Just bought my first truck, to use traveling in retirement. Bought the kit you used here but with Surface Shield. I have an F150 with an aluminum body so mainly this is for the frame and suspension. Hoping it'll make the truck last 20 years in Michigan. Thanks for showing your process!
Hi Eric I have used both thin liquid products and thicker gel or paste products for undercoating . The application tip I have is to get a larger enough baking / cake Pan with or 4" lip large enough to hold the gallon can inside the pan. Fill the pan with water and place the fluid film gallon can inside the baking pan with lid loose or half removed. Put on a heat source to heat the water to about 140-160 Deg. F this will thin the paste for spraying and probably require around 40-60 PSI . It will really help the DYI home guy with a small volume compressor. Great but messy job and the New Jeep Hat get's Christened (LOL).
They used to use an oil-based product, but nowadays they use calcium-chloride which is super corrosive. Calcium chloride sticks to your vehicle and is more damaging than road salt.
I used to spray old engine oil under my 1962 Sunbeam Rapier. Still passes the test each year with no/little rust. Back in 1990 I changed to Wax Oil that seems to be similar to your product and leaves the old engine oil to be mixed 50/50 with creosote for protecting wood on outside buildings. Workes wonders.
Way back when my grandma would tell my grandpa to go out and buy couple of gallons of coal oil and fill the old garden sprayer and go at it. He would lift the car with the back hoe and do his thing. Don’t know if it really worked well but the old 58 Ford fairlaine was rustles. Oh ya here in northern Illinois.
I find the notion of coating the under side of vehicles fascinating. I guess because I’ve never had to deal with corrosion here in the south. Very satisfying video. Thanks.
I usually take the next 3 months to try and wash it out of my beard but my truck doesn't rust from North Carolina and been driving it daily in NY for 5 years. Little fluid film doesn't hurt to bad lol
Good news is that Fluid Film is lanolin based. It's non-toxic and doesn't hurt anything or anyone, so just make sure that you don't get it in your eyes etc.
Good job and excellent video. FF really works and I live in the Midwest salt belt and you need to apply this once to twice a year for maximum protection. I know some who apply it in the early fall and then the following summer to protect the undercarriage. The damage from the salt and additives the states use on the roads really tear up the cars and this is a good way to extend the life of your vehicle. Get inside the rockers, door jambs, hoods and doors, etc.
Eric, the great thing about FF is that once you have it inside panels, rockers and doors you are protected!. It will travel. Lanolin is a main component( wool wax) which is a polish you can shine up your truck with it! Don't worry about gettin it on ya, it does not have toxic components and will not be absorbed by skin.
Great Video Eric. I bought the kit at NAPA w/ gallon of product and the FF branded gun w/ single bottle. It was 150 bucks for sprayer and 50 for the gallon of ff this fall 2023.
I think the 360 attachment is meant to spray far. It’s best used for going inside the plug holes so that you can coat a narrow interior surface in all directions.
Thanks for the great vid. I just got done doing my own Tundra with FF. Your vid showed me some things I was unaware of. The use of a head lamp is great. I used a hand held shop light. Spraying and holding a light was a pain. Oddly enough, my Tundra was sold from Amityville Toyota. I can relate on the use of road salt and brine. I was unaware one of my spray gun extensions was a plain, old fan tip. That info was worth watching your videos. Sorry for rambling. Long days and nights. Kirk
We experimented- and now my Friend who offers this service at his Shop (Jack's Foreign Auto in Marcy, NY) he microwaves a container before spraying. About 2 minutes is good. It creeps and flows better, and also makes the product go further- so it doesn't glob up so easily. If your garage and/or the vehicle is cold- this really helps.
Excellent video thanks for sharing. Took 24 cans at about $10/each to undercoat my Ford Crown Vic. Your method with the spray gun looks like the best way to go. After watching your video I think the spray gun gives higher quality coverage and is faster to apply.
I'm so thankful I don't work in the rust belt I do get a truck or car from new York from time to time and that's more than enough for me hats off to all top notch mechanics that work in the rust belt everyday just hope that you compensate your time for dealing with it
Thanks for sharing your process👍 I just did my car and work van last week and did it in the driveway with the spray gun and it worked well. A hoist is definitely the way to go. Laying in the driveway covered in fluid film isn't that much fun lol.
I use chainsaw bar oil. Do some research on it. Anti corrosive additives to keep the bar clean and it's sticky but thin enough to get into all the tight spots.
Fluid film works great for clean metal. I've tried this stuff when I had my Subaru. I'm sure you know how much Subarus like to rust lol. Anyways I sprayed this stuff on my Outback and it made zero difference in stopping or slowing the rust I had on the inner rear drivers wheel well. I cleaned the metal and had it sand blasted and primed and painted. I then applied this stuff all over the car and the wheel well still rusted through even with this stuff applied over it.
The problem is you painted the metal rust lives underneath the paint you should have just used fluid film after you got the rust scraped never paint over rusted parts you just put a blanket over the rust makes it easier to grow
I live on a dirt road in Michigan, they do not use brine for dust control, but plenty of salt for ice. I used FF from day one. The dirt sticks to the FF and creates a nice dirty, oily coating. Not sure my mechanic likes the mess, but it's better than freeing rusted-on nuts and bolts!
Mustie1 did an experiment with bar and chain oil that he heats up in a microwave to allow it to spray a bit easier. He does a follow up video 3 years later and compared it to a tundra of a similar era to compare rust. Very interesting to watch.
I will try Cosmoline next year. That stuff does not wash off; unless you use petroleum based solvent. I used Fluid Film last year and wash underbody during the winter months whenever the temperature permits. The Fluid Film is completely gone in high spray areas. Those are the areas that I need the most protection.
Fluid Film sticks well and protects the spots you spray just fine. The problem I see with it is that it doesn't "creep" at all. Doesn't work it's way into crevices and joints like the thinner oilier stuff does. I've used both Rust Check and Krown and they both work well.
It does creep beleave me film ..krown and rust check are great products. I'm using rust check currently becouse the local guy sprays it ..at a great price... Without the need of me driving 30 miles 👍
1000% agree, i also live in the canadian rust belt and started using rust check in 2014 f150 since new, still looks like new and runs like new and as a great comparison my niebour bought same truck same time never oiled it and it's a rust pit, what a waste
When I was in the Navy we used this stuff by the 55 gallon drum but they banned it because of poor flipper getting cancer and growing extra eyeballs or whatever, and then suddenly the supplier had a zillion gallons of it with nowhere to go... within 6 months I saw ads in every car magazine for it.
Definitely thinking of cosmoline. we are still used by the navy and coast guard. our product is non-hazardous/non-toxic with a lanolin (wool wax) base as David stated.
-- Just bought a 2004 Tahoe winter beater. Pretty clean; can tell it was garaged. Still, there were places the rust was real. I'll spare you the months long process it took me to take care of it, but boy am I looking forward to just doing what you did once a year. Done in a day or two. Thumbs up.
*Fluid Film 11.75 oz. Spray 3-Pak, Spray can Extension Wand: amzn.to/2DqB1mB
*Fluid Film 1 Gallon Can Rust Inhibitor: amzn.to/2OMrfw2
*Fluid Film Pro Undercoating Gun: amzn.to/2DoEVfz
**Fluid Film Undercoating Kit 1 Gallon with PRO Spray Gun, bottles, and everything you need**amzn.to/2DpljIo
South Main Auto Repair
Hey Eric I was wondering I have a 2003 Chevy avalanche 5.3 it’s in really good shape for being a Michigan car. It has some surface rust on the frame not flaking. The paint rockers and the wheel wells look brand new. Here in Michigan we put a lot of salt down too and salt brine are dirt roads as well would this benefit my truck?
Take it to toyota dealership if they find rust deformation they might replace frame under recall campaign, dealership pay nothing, toyota is paying for parts labor I worked for them thank me later
South Main Auto Repair yeee but Aleskyfinis
South Main Auto Repair mustie1
Mustie1
heat the can next time bruh
I live in the rust belt myself. Bought a fluid film pro kit years ago. Use it once a year in October to coat my late model truck. Drilled doors, tailgate whole 9 yards. Easy two hour job once a year. It saves your vehicle. No doubt about it.... Period.
I moved to Arizona to prevent rust. Worked out well. This looks like a cheaper solution.
Tacoma guys swear by Fluid Film so I figured I would start using it on my Chevy truck. Works great! 5 years old, lived in the rust belt its whole life, and the underside of the truck is 100% rust free. Even the crappy factory frame coating is in really good shape. The truck does smell like a heard of wet sheep for a few weeks but I'll take that over rust.
Love to see a good, honest mechanic. I stoped useing mechs at 21yo after Bering ripped off too many times.
Bought a shop manual on every vehicle I've owned.
And tools. + many, many hours, swet, and yes bloody knuckles. Haha.
Now at 66 yo I just don't have energy for it.
A customer from Mass, this was in Md, back in the 80s, told me in western Mass they they would spray used oil on the bottom of the vehicles and then run them down a dirt road. Worked great. When we were welding on a new panel I had to stand fire patrol as we were afraid it might go up. But no problem and better yet no rust anywhere on that car. So though I was first skeptical an oil based film like that does work.
How about doing an update video on how the Fluid Film held up over the winter? Thanks!
I tried using ff for undercoating and after one year it dried and was flaking off.
I believe you have to reapply it every year when used as undercoating. I sprayed some in my wheel wells and it seems to be holding up so far. Have to reapply soon.
The more shit you add the more it rust
@@rubenscott3972 that's only with that rubberized undercoating, not so with fluid film.
@@rickybobby43 wot, are you confusing this with that rubberized undercoating. Because this shouldn't flake off, that rubberized undercoating does.
I Fluid Filmed my doors, rockers and cab corners about mid summer. I was a little concerned about it plugging up the weep holes too but we had some weather in the mid to upper 90's for a few weeks after that and a lot of leaked back out. Where it ran to the bottom outsides of the doors, it actually creeped up the outsides of the doors a couple of inches.
If you can do this while it's still hot out, you should get some good creep and travel out of the product so it will get into the little nooks and sandwiched parts of your truck or car.
Good stuff!
Just watched the video and as a driver of a Ram 1500 here in Sweden, I can recommend tecthyle based rust inhibitors. We used that on our cars here and the average length between application is 3 years depending on usage.
I applied it to my Ram this summer for the winter together with rustblocker on the rustspots on the truck and it is good to go. That one is also sticky and stays sticky even if the top layer gets dust and "dries" but it does the job really well!
You need to spray that rust inhibitor on your lift. The ends of those lift bars have considerable rust on them. Don’t want Mr. O saying his last WHOA!
safety stands and move like lighting when you hear odd noises....
Safety third
That little bit of rust on the lift arms ain't nothing.
@@sammosher1812 famous last words...
@@madmax2069 but in New York with constant salt baths, the rust on the arms won't stay "surface" for tens of years.
I’m so glad I watched this video!! I literally just had 3 cans delivered today, I was going to attempt to apply it myself. I think I’m going to have my mechanic apply it for me so he can put it on the lift. Thanks my man!!
Don’t blame you. Without a lift it would be a major PITA. Folks gotta 4 Post so I’m gonna give it a shot.
Here in Wisconsin land of the rust buckets. Just replaced all the brake lines, 2000 Silverado; Napa had a 10 piece stainless replacement kit. Was out of state when they rusted through. 3 days later I am back on the road again. Great video. Thumbs Up !
Good to see this information is being made available to the rust belt in the US. I live in Ontario and have been getting my vehicles sprayed for over 40 years commercially. Usually Krown or Rust Check. It's an annual event and if your going to keep your vehicle over 3 years or so the only way to prevent rust. Annual cost is $100 or so depending on the vehicle size. The commercial businesses drill holes and spay inside the doors, fenders etc. It should be noted that rust really happens during the warmer summer periods as the heat inside the doors etc. really cooks the process. You can spot the oil sprayed vehicles as the bottom corners of the doors tend to look a little dirty from a thin film of oil creeping out and getting some dust until the next car wash, but no rust.
It should be noted that the city and provincial snow/salt trucks are also sprayed with the same process.
@allanbowes6952 For $100 you get about 0.5 hrs. That means they are not spaying inside cavities, pillars, doors, tail gates, and fenders, where most of rust occurs. Driving over dusty roads after treatment is very important. Getting into rockers is also critical.
It was like watching my wife's Roomba Vacuum cleaner. There's no apparent pattern to it but at the end it all seems to be done. I'm so happy I don't have to deal with that kind of rust.
Yep, a spatula is the way to go. It is amazing how many kitchen tools have application in the garage. Hard to beat a turkey baster when working with brake fluid.
Lets all take a moment and give thanks to Fluid Film. Without it my 02 4Runner would be a rotted out hooptie by now. Because of Fluid Film she still is pristine underneath. Smells good too when applying it. Most 3rd gen 4runners I see around here look like they spent a year sat the bottom of the ocean.
How often do you have to re-apply the film?
Once a year, before winter.
Love me a 3rd gen 4runner!
Nutz4Gunz45 do you wash it underneath during winter or just leave it till summer?
I hate the smell. But it IS a good product. No argument there.
Leaking rear main seal works as the best undercoating for me 😂
c431inf 11b LOL AND ITS A FOXBODY TOO !
Yes the front of my 88 f150 is perfect but the back of the truck has some rust.
Never have to change oil.😉😏
@@fordnut4914 hahaha I'm mine I honestly dont change the oil. And I also give the oil back to the earth, circle of life.
@@swamp-reportdotcom4983 I try to fix oil leaks cause it does pollute our water…. Then they go and spill a whole pipeline into the Gulf smh
I do the same to my RAV4. Here in MA they salt the roads a lot. This stuff helps slow down the rusting a lot. Stinks pretty bad, but just for a few days.
Thanks
Wool Wax Does Not Smell AS Bad, More Like Hand Lotion, Since It Is a LANOLIN product as are both
Watching this video and seeing other videos where you have to fight through the crusty rusties makes me grateful I live in the desert. I changed the rear drums on my truck a year ago and they're still shiny silver through the wheels.
2006 impala SS with 108k in Buffalo, used fluid film every fall and the underside just has some scale and under the doors is perfect. I swear by the stuff. I bought the "pro kit" off amazon for pretty cheap.
I lived in Germany, and my mechanic would coat the bottom of my Jeep with automatic transmission fluid. He used a spray gun to apply it. Worked great 8 years with no rust. He said the reason he used automatic transmission fluid is that it would not cause ruber deterioration.
Rick Adams, Your mech was correct. I have used ATF for years to keep rust off of tools that I used with corrosive fluids. Soaking metal in ATF will arrest corrosion also.
It's great for the environment too!
Thanks for the info.
J Bone yeah it’d be horrible if every car on the road did it, but I’ll bet that 1 in 5000 at most do. Most people put gas in their tanks and that’s it for maintenance
ATF plus chainsaw oil. The chainsaw oil is made to resist slinging off a high rpm chain so it sticks to the car better than ATF alone.
You do a good job keeping your shop floor clean
Having a lift for this project is where it's at, I know from experience that it's not this ez while laying on your back with just some jack stands holding up the car!
I was thinking the same thing... I’ve done it laying on my back, what a mess!
@@ericw4279 Not too bad using the spray cans. Used them on my truck.
Honestly who thumbs down these videos!? Best auto channel on youtube hands down! Thank you Eric & Mrs. O for all you do.
Gino 1984 , I gave a thumbs down to this video. I agree that SMA is an excellent channel however this particular segment struck me more as a paid advertisement. I like Eric’s typical diagnostic analysis of a problem to identity the root cause versus throwing new parts at it. When a channel starts to push a particular product I begin to question its independence. I don’t fault Eric for attempting to supplement his income by monetizing his youtube celebrity status as long as we’re honest what were “selling” here.
@@frankmcgowan1521 if you don't fault him then why thumbs down it? Also he has been using fluid film since way before his channel was big. Also why does him "selling" as you describe if its a good product to help people deserve a thumbs down?
Gino 1984 , I gave the video a thumbs down as I was disappointed it turned into a 23 minute commercial. I now don’t know if fluid film is a “good product” because I don’t know if it is being recommended by Eric, the salesman or Eric, the upstate NY technician extraordinaire. I like his channel because Eric comes across as honest, creative and resourceful. If Eric wants to be a “celebrity endorser” he has every right to do so, just let his subscribers know up front.
@@frankmcgowan1521 at 2:54 he said he wasnt sponsored
Whatever None if he did get paid for this he risks his youtube channel by not reporting it, you really think he would do that? I think he just likes the product and wanted to make a vid about it.
Make sure you silicone your door seals - I have a 2009 Tacoma that was Krown'd since new and it ruined the rubber seals around the doors and more recently I've had some rubber lines split. I have a 2013 Accord that I had Krown'd last winter (I bought it used) and the same thing happened to the seals after just one treatment. Not sure whether they re-formulated the product or newer cars have rubber seals more prone to swelling but I'm going to give Fluid Film a try this winter.
They say krown is safe on rubbers I'll have look into that my brother is a die hard krown fan
It says right on the spray cans not to spray fluid film on rubber b/c it will cause it to swell.
UPDATE: I've been using Fluid Film the last 2 winters and I'm very pleased with the results. The product is still wet come spring time. No visible signs of rust and seems to stick better in the wheel wells.
great product, I use it on a lot of our customers boat-trailers and they can't believe how good it works and how long it lasts (and some always ends up under my chivvy)
I used that stuff on my lawnmower deck, does pretty good job, also helps keep the grass from sticking as much to deck.
Enjoy your videos.
Fluid Filmed my new aluminum F150. Got the straw on-line for about $5. Used at least 6 cans of FF. Anxious to see the results next spring. See what I missed. Respirator, or mask, is a must. I breathed some of that stuff and smelled it for a couple days.
Shot everything that looked like steel.
How is it holding up?
Aluminium doesnt rust but it will corrode into dust just as fast, I would coat the lot under the truck
The rustiest truck I ever saw was a “Florida power and light” truck. Spent its whole life getting sprayed with ocean mist and driving on the beach. A guy I worked with bought it for $500 and drove it around, I couldn’t believe it held together. It looked like Swiss cheese!
I gave you a thumbs up just for the darth vader breathing.
I know! It was wicked kewl to see that footage. Lol
the head lamp . best damn invention ever. remember holding the light for dad?
You are the man! I've been watching your channel the past couple of months. I appreciate your video's and knowledge. Thank you for what you do.
Here in the UK we have a product called Waxoyl that looks exactly like Fluid Film, manufactured by Finnegans. My dad swore by it and I still use it nowadays, it came with a pressure sprayer and tubes like yours, we used to add pinholes with a hot pin to give a more '360' area to the spray (putting them in the tube). Best thing ever as these never go hard and trap moisture behind, as you say in your other video, the tarry ones are rubbish. It is just the world's messiest procedure, especially if you warmed the can in warm water to make it runnier; went everywhere on the car but also everywhere on the driveway. Other than that, a great product.
I remember waxoilong the chassis on my old Scimitar. The next year, I needed to weld in a patch. The heat from the welder ignited the wax in the chassis, and I wasn't prepared to extinguish a fire which I couldn't even see!
BTW, if you leave the can in a bucket of hot water, you can pour it out much more easily. And you're right, you'll have a headache for days if you're not careful..
i live outside st louis, missouri. there has not been one year i can remember that we didn't get some snow. the winter of '11-'12 was really mild. so yea, there's a lot of rusty vehicles here. but that being said I'm glad we don't see nowhere near the snow that this guy must see. just purchased an old nissan 4x4 in real good shape and will invest in a couple cans for it.
Lord Vader, the lights on your glasses are simply the best. Well done and may the force be with you
Super tech, I do not miss the rusting out of my car here in Phoenix, AZ. Thanks for the training. Great job.
Welp, I learned that this stuff is wayy better than rubberized undercoating. I used that black Nasty stuff on my dad's old truck he left me.. Sadly a few years later the frame was completely rotted. Wish I had gone this route & saw your channel sooner. Thanks for sharing bud! 🇺🇸 Watchin from up in the corner in Maine
Just completed spraying 2015 f250 with fluid film. The application was pretty straightforward, I used a spray gun with straight wand and 360 wand. 50 degree day today, sprayed at 70'to 90 psi. What really helped the spraying is warming fluid. Hot water bath worked well to warm, I tried turbo heater 1st, but melted plastic bucket. What really shocked me was the amount of dirt in truck frame and rails,after washing bottom, a shovel full! I highly suggest lots of air spraying after the wash. I'm happy with result, 1 gallon with a little left over, good luck!
Eric next time sit the plastic bottles in a bucket of hot water for 20 minutes and it should thin out a bit a spray better especially when doing inside box sections with 360 Degree tips
OK good tip thanks!
The most informative mechanic and gets to the point better than anybody on the ol interwebs. Viewer here from Racine Wisconsin✊🏼
"Pulled out too soon... Made a mess!" LOL! Yup... been there, done that. ;-)
Great video yet again! The science ( moisture + salt + heat) = CORROSION. A good solution: Oil spray keeps the water off the metal. In Vermont we use husky summer grade bar and chain oil heated in a crock pot. A good old air paint spray gun with 80 PSI atomizes it well. TIP : Heating whatever oil you use makes application easier.
After watching the tests, and using it myself, CRC and FFilm are the best. They can be washed and still remain to protect. I light coating once a year in off spots is what I do. I would rather get a bit of dust than rust any day!:)
I have used it on my car and under mower deck. Makes grass come off the deck much easier. You need to let it dry under your mower deck for a week before you use it. Under and around your car it works pretty good. Bad thing is it likes to collect a lot of dirt.
Sheep come fluid filmed from the factory. I’ve never seen a sheep rust.
True enough. Never did see a sheep rust..... However depending on your area? You might see some sheep run.........
I was wondering if we couldn't just run over a few sheep every year and skip the tools and labor for the application.
@@jwo7777777 oh way easier then all that, just nick your front main seal.
Or drive the old Jeep Cherokee with a 4.0 inline 6. I never had one that didn't leak out of the rear main seal. Even after replacement. Didn't burn a drop of oil but I used half to a full quart between each oil change.
They can be "rustled" though!!!!
Idk why some people think it dosent work, i proved that it saves vehicles with my 2003 car, its rust free, good video bro
From another Upstate New Yorker, well done. Love your channel.
BTW, anyone wanting to know why we're so obsessed with salting the roads? Follow the money. Someone has lucrative contracts with our contract-happy State and they're not lettin' go gently.
The best is the last little snow falls in March. They put as much Salt down as they can. Their reasoning: “If we don’t use it all this year then we can’t order __ tons next year because we didn’t use it all.” And that is why the roads are white damn near till the end of April.
Most ironically, within 1 minute of you posting this video tonight, I had just arrived on your channel to show my wife (who is from TX) your recent rusty Subaru video to show how awful it is up in my home area!
A must for the rust belt!
Something satisfying about doing your own rust proofing. You get the job you want done. We have a really good guy who does Krown on both my vehicles each year.
20:28 air compressor kicks on while using aerosol can. Can't get a break.
Robert Appleyard g
pressure inside bad air reservoir got low, so it had to make more
because they can be up to 85 decibels?
LetterSlayer The large compressors are ok, the little portable ones on wheels are really annoying.
Len M. The really really big ones are nice and quiet on account of how large the chambers are to compress the air. You can hide them outside or in a wall somewhere and you’ll never really hear them
I was in the early 1970 in the German Airforce Base and they put me to helping out getting unimops heavy trucks to the TUV, Technical inspection.
They mixed an awesom mixture of about 50 of old motor oil and the remaining 50 present disel.
After a few minutes the other guys stem learning the undercarriage off.
It turn up amazing.
I was an young man than, I am old now and thinking back on the old-timers and what they come up with what they got.
I use the same kit on my truck. I use a whole gallon and go crazy with it like you did.
Kyle P 5 gallon pail is 169on eBay. Free shipping
That's a good deal. i'll have to check it out, ty
17:50 "pulled out too soon, made a mess" idk if that was thought through but deff was funny lol
I feel your pain Eric just starting to work on the rust on my 2010 Ford Transit rust, they salt the roads here all winter as well at the first sign of frost, gets so bad sometimes the salt creates a white film on car bodywork. We use a product called Waxoyl this side of the pond
We call it "Michigan cancer" around here, and no car is immune... even my plastic-bodied Saturn Ion has rust issues on the floorpan that I had to repair. Fieros are another victim of that - you can't see the rust happening under those plastic body panels. The upper rear frame rails go right over the rear wheels, and have holes in them that catch the (salty) water and cause them to rust out from the inside.
Interesting somebody has mentioned Waxoyl. I have been using Waxoyl on my vehicles in UK for years . A little tip / observation though , from experience. Use the Black Waxoyl . I have found it is much better than the "clear" (actually kind of yellow) . I am not sure why there is any difference other than the colour , but I'm guessing the black variety has some bitumen in there.
The black lasts for ever , I have an F150 (a 97) which I thoroughly waxoyled back in 2009 , and it is still spotless and completely black underneath. I have a Toyota Crown (also a 97) which I did with clear waxoyl around 2011 and that is getting ready to be done again . Some areas the clear waxoyl has disappeared / worn away completely .
So , when using waxoyl , the black is MUCH better and longer lasting .
We use both Waxoyl and fluid film. The Waxoyl is for anything brand new and the fluid film is for anything with a "patina".
My Dad once had a Holden Premier. Holden are a GM Australia product, or once were. It had a bad oil leak for years and had also been sprayed with a product called Tectyl which was a rust preventative. When we pulled the engine to repair the leak for him, the crossmember was coated with old oil and road grime up to half an inch thick. We gave it a good pressure wash and all the areas previously covered with the engine oil and crud under the car were absolutely immaculate with no rust and not a mark. On the contrary large areas of the treated metalwork was beginning to rust.
I prefer the DIY kit because as Eric O mentioned you can unscrew bolts to spray in recessed areas instead of having your vehicle drilled with holes to be later filled with body plugs. I cringe at the thought of drilling my vehicles so Fluid film for the win! The Tundra looked pretty clean underneath since the last Krown visit. :-)
So glad Missouri isnt so bad for salt as the vehicles I've seen in your vids, I usually wash my truck alot anyways but other trucks of the same or newer are rusting on the bedsides already though around here. I did end up spraying some undercoat in my rear wheel wells and on the frame in a couple spots to try to prevent some.
Great music selection Eric. Looks really good under there to. And the cap will not rust either...
Eric's gone full Ivan on us with the headlight! Although I'm not a fan of using 'wax' on anything but shiny new metal, especially over oil based films but as Grandma always told me, anything is better than nothing! Over here I just use 'sump oil' Eric but we don't have Salt Laced Roads like you guys get! You're gonna be wishing you wore overalls! If I could offer one 'tip' make sure you get INSIDE cavities where salt/mud can collect & NEVER, EVER PULL OUT TOO SOON! Great vid! 👍
Warm the FF up in boiling water or mild hotplate it will turn into watery oil
Tried the hot plate method----EPIC FAIL--------the can is plastic! What a mess.
@@skip7243 boil water yeah ok
Just bought my first truck, to use traveling in retirement. Bought the kit you used here but with Surface Shield. I have an F150 with an aluminum body so mainly this is for the frame and suspension. Hoping it'll make the truck last 20 years in Michigan. Thanks for showing your process!
Loving this channel, glad we don't have to worry about all this rust proofing! Greetings from your fans in Australia!
Hi Eric
I have used both thin liquid products and thicker gel or paste products for undercoating .
The application tip I have is to get a larger enough baking / cake Pan with or 4" lip large enough to hold the gallon can inside the pan. Fill the pan with water and place the fluid film gallon can inside the baking pan with lid loose or half removed. Put on a heat source to heat the water to about 140-160 Deg. F this will thin the paste for spraying and probably require around 40-60 PSI . It will really help the DYI home guy with a small volume compressor.
Great but messy job and the New Jeep Hat get's Christened (LOL).
In Michigan several counties use some type of oil on the dirt roads to keep the dust down.
They used to use an oil-based product, but nowadays they use calcium-chloride which is super corrosive.
Calcium chloride sticks to your vehicle and is more damaging than road salt.
Yep, because salt is cheaper than oil.
I used to spray old engine oil under my 1962 Sunbeam Rapier.
Still passes the test each year with no/little rust.
Back in 1990 I changed to Wax Oil that seems to be similar to your product and leaves the old engine oil to be mixed 50/50 with creosote for protecting wood on outside buildings.
Workes wonders.
Way back when my grandma would tell my grandpa to go out and buy couple of gallons of coal oil and fill the old garden sprayer and go at it. He would lift the car with the back hoe and do his thing. Don’t know if it really worked well but the old 58 Ford fairlaine was rustles. Oh ya here in northern Illinois.
It MUST have worked well if that '58 Ford remained rust-free. Those late '50s Fords were the MOST RUST PRONE vehicles of that era!
I find the notion of coating the under side of vehicles fascinating. I guess because I’ve never had to deal with corrosion here in the south. Very satisfying video. Thanks.
A nice thurough job. You won't have to worry about the concrete floor rusting or anything else in the shop for that matter😉
I take out my tail lights and spray inside the box walls too, excellent video, thanks much.
I could smell it through my speakers... Love it... Great job as usual!
Glad to see the safety equiptment was being used great job
Imagine trying to do this on your back in your driveway? You'll need a hazmat suit.
I usually take the next 3 months to try and wash it out of my beard but my truck doesn't rust from North Carolina and been driving it daily in NY for 5 years. Little fluid film doesn't hurt to bad lol
@Kommie Watch hows it work, rust or anything?.
Good news is that Fluid Film is lanolin based. It's non-toxic and doesn't hurt anything or anyone, so just make sure that you don't get it in your eyes etc.
Good job and excellent video. FF really works and I live in the Midwest salt belt and you need to apply this once to twice a year for maximum protection. I know some who apply it in the early fall and then the following summer to protect the undercarriage. The damage from the salt and additives the states use on the roads really tear up the cars and this is a good way to extend the life of your vehicle. Get inside the rockers, door jambs, hoods and doors, etc.
Eric, the great thing about FF is that once you have it inside panels, rockers and doors you are protected!. It will travel. Lanolin is a main component( wool wax) which is a polish you can shine up your truck with it! Don't worry about gettin it on ya, it does not have toxic components and will not be absorbed by skin.
Great Video Eric. I bought the kit at NAPA w/ gallon of product and the FF branded gun w/ single bottle. It was 150 bucks for sprayer and 50 for the gallon of ff this fall 2023.
I think the 360 attachment is meant to spray far. It’s best used for going inside the plug holes so that you can coat a narrow interior surface in all directions.
It works inside the boxed frames.
If I had a head like that and it didn’t ache, I’d be worried! Good video. That Toyota will be around a while!
We just found our new lead actor for Space Cowboys II
Thanks for the great vid. I just got done doing my own Tundra with FF. Your vid showed me some things I was unaware of. The use of a head lamp is great. I used a hand held shop light. Spraying and holding a light was a pain.
Oddly enough, my Tundra was sold from Amityville Toyota. I can relate on the use of road salt and brine.
I was unaware one of my spray gun extensions was a plain, old fan tip. That info was worth watching your videos. Sorry for rambling. Long days and nights.
Kirk
"Pulled out too soon"
Classic joke lol
That's what she said.
And made a mess. I hate when that happens.
Keep it inside till you are done!
JD Overclock God wills it
Your truck has held up very well for its age and where you live!
Hopefully we get an updated this winter 2019 with current state and new appication :)
We experimented- and now my Friend who offers this service at his Shop (Jack's Foreign Auto in Marcy, NY) he microwaves a container before spraying. About 2 minutes is good. It creeps and flows better, and also makes the product go further- so it doesn't glob up so easily. If your garage and/or the vehicle is cold- this really helps.
Excellent video thanks for sharing. Took 24 cans at about $10/each to undercoat my Ford Crown Vic. Your method with the spray gun looks like the best way to go. After watching your video I think the spray gun gives higher quality coverage and is faster to apply.
I'm so thankful I don't work in the rust belt I do get a truck or car from new York from time to time and that's more than enough for me hats off to all top notch mechanics that work in the rust belt everyday just hope that you compensate your time for dealing with it
Thanks for sharing your process👍 I just did my car and work van last week and did it in the driveway with the spray gun and it worked well. A hoist is definitely the way to go. Laying in the driveway covered in fluid film isn't that much fun lol.
Lookin like Soul Man:) ah the 80s.
I use chainsaw bar oil. Do some research on it. Anti corrosive additives to keep the bar clean and it's sticky but thin enough to get into all the tight spots.
Next time maybe a drop cloth and a painters suit would help.
good mentioning, painters suits and cheap plastic drops would be great for only doing a vehicle or two and obliterating the shop or yourself as bad
Fluid film works great for clean metal. I've tried this stuff when I had my Subaru. I'm sure you know how much Subarus like to rust lol. Anyways I sprayed this stuff on my Outback and it made zero difference in stopping or slowing the rust I had on the inner rear drivers wheel well. I cleaned the metal and had it sand blasted and primed and painted. I then applied this stuff all over the car and the wheel well still rusted through even with this stuff applied over it.
“Rust never sleeps”
The problem is you painted the metal rust lives underneath the paint you should have just used fluid film after you got the rust scraped never paint over rusted parts you just put a blanket over the rust makes it easier to grow
Thanks for showing us how you did the undercoating love your site.
It's Tundra time at SMA!
I live on a dirt road in Michigan, they do not use brine for dust control, but plenty of salt for ice. I used FF from day one. The dirt sticks to the FF and creates a nice dirty, oily coating. Not sure my mechanic likes the mess, but it's better than freeing rusted-on nuts and bolts!
Mustie1 did an experiment with bar and chain oil that he heats up in a microwave to allow it to spray a bit easier. He does a follow up video 3 years later and compared it to a tundra of a similar era to compare rust. Very interesting to watch.
huh
@@rhodesianwojak2095 duh?
@@christophercorrado2406 warum?
I will try Cosmoline next year. That stuff does not wash off; unless you use petroleum based solvent. I used Fluid Film last year and wash underbody during the winter months whenever the temperature permits. The Fluid Film is completely gone in high spray areas. Those are the areas that I need the most protection.
I remember in the Army, everything was soaked & packed in cosmoline, the Army did not tolerate rust on anything, not even our chow or c-rats...lol
Fluid Film sticks well and protects the spots you spray just fine. The problem I see with it is that it doesn't "creep" at all. Doesn't work it's way into crevices and joints like the thinner oilier stuff does. I've used both Rust Check and Krown and they both work well.
It does creep, I can attest that it has been protecting my 26 year old Camry for years
If you give a little toot to the rear license plate screws it will leak out the headlights in a matter of minutes!
Fluid film creeps around 15cm. 6 inches for you non metric guy's.
It does creep beleave me film ..krown and rust check are great products. I'm using rust check currently becouse the local guy sprays it ..at a great price... Without the need of me driving 30 miles 👍
Look up Rust Check -I just got that applied
1000% agree, i also live in the canadian rust belt and started using rust check in 2014 f150 since new, still looks like new and runs like new and as a great comparison my niebour bought same truck same time never oiled it and it's a rust pit, what a waste
When I was in the Navy we used this stuff by the 55 gallon drum but they banned it because of poor flipper getting cancer and growing extra eyeballs or whatever, and then suddenly the supplier had a zillion gallons of it with nowhere to go... within 6 months I saw ads in every car magazine for it.
Brad B. Fluid Film isn’t giving anyone cancer or harming the environment for that matter, it’s lanolin based.
Found the fluid film salesman.
Brad B. I think the chemical you were thinking of in the military is Cosmoline which is petroleum based
Definitely thinking of cosmoline. we are still used by the navy and coast guard. our product is non-hazardous/non-toxic with a lanolin (wool wax) base as David stated.
Brad B. 😬ssss🤔🍺
-- Just bought a 2004 Tahoe winter beater. Pretty clean; can tell it was garaged. Still, there were places the rust was real. I'll spare you the months long process it took me to take care of it, but boy am I looking forward to just doing what you did once a year.
Done in a day or two. Thumbs up.