My first Crown Vic was a 1993. They still had the electric sliding couch at that time. Such a comfortable seat... My wife has told me many times that she would have been fine with me spending the money that car needed to keep it running, because of how much she loved those seats.
Aw, a Crown Vic? You're tugging at my heart strings. My first car was a 76 Chevy Caprice. 2 keys, fuel fill inlet in the center behind the license plate, dimmer switch on the floor, 8 track player, power everything.. you're bringing back memories. And I'm not talking about some ruined car with gaudy rims and a trunk full of speakers. No, my glass house was completely stock and all original the way the universe intended.
@@iFixJunk Aw, thanks. It was a family heirloom. My great-grandpa bought it brand new. The original bill of sale was in the glove box. $7,300 brand new in 76. He was probably in his 70s when be bought it. It sat under his carport for 10 years and was driven just enough so the ties and oil stayed good. He died. It sat under my grandpa's carport for another few years under a cover. He drove it to town and back occasionally to keep it in good order. So that was 2 generations. When he died, I was just turning 16 so my dad took ownership but let me drive it for a year to make sure I'd take care of it. Then he signed the title to me at 17. I got it with 24,000 original miles in 1998. I drove it all through high school and most of college. All of my friends took to calling it The Tank until they rode in it. Then it also earned the nickname The Yacht. It glided down the road like a big boat floating across the water. Someone stole it in 2006 and I never saw it again. I literally cried. I loved that car to death. Four generations and even though I drove it like crazy, it only had 84,000 original miles. I've been looking for another one ever since. Baby blue, four door, power everything, all original. It had that vinyl top on the back half of the roof in a darker blue. She was perfection. If I ever find another one, I'd pay anything for it. My dad is 70 now and I know he'd like to drive it again one more time.
We need more mechanics like you man, not only do you do great work but you can still work on a car without a fancy computer. Up here just about every shop denied to work on my truck because the obd2 port was torn out by original owner. There excuse is they cant diagnose a vehichle without being able to hook up a computer to it.
@@dennislyon5412 turns out, chrome covered plastic had been used for decades BEFORE this car came out. Bumpers are about the only metal chrome beyond the 60's
I have my late grandfather's 1987 LTD Crown Vic that was doing the same thing to him. He put a fuel pump in it and it did not fix it. Turns out the problem was the ignition switch was full of corrosion and the supply voltage to the fuel pump was low and causing the car to run bad and eat fuel pumps. Fast forward 15 years later (last winter), and I'm having problems with the wipers and the radio randomly not working and it was the ignition switch AGAIN. I took it apart and cleaned all the contacts inside of it (they were filthy), and everything started working again.
This guy will probably wind up taking it to a different mechanic if the fuel pump itself doesn't turn out to be the whole of the problem. Guaranteed he'll whine that Ray did the job wrong when he really didn't give Ray the chance to dig deeper and refine his analysis. Further, if he's such a mechanical whiz, why was just getting the bonnet open a mission almost impossible. The owner obviously hasn't opened his own bonnet in a very long time so, it will be back to someone to do the job. When the owner lets even the bonnet release get that bad I can't really imagine him doing even a job like this without messing something up then taking it back to yet another mechanic and then doing the same as here and expecting someone else to work out the hard way just what mysterious things he's stuffed up next.
@@philc7192 I tracked it down by voltage dropping legs of the supply circuits until I narrowed down the general location of the excessive resistance. A simple A to B resistance check with a DVOM wouldn't have shown any issues. The meter showed negligible resistance through the ignition switch, but a voltage drop showed a HUGE drop across the switch assembly.
@@kidd1072 it's been fairly reliable for the 10 years I've owned it. Only problems have been related to NW Ohio rust. I've replaced all the brake lines and most of the fuel lines. It leaks everything from everywhere but it always starts and has never left me stranded. I've heard an old saying that goes: "an old Ford will drive broken forever" and this car is proof of that. I'm going to pull the engine soon to do an HO conversion and reseal everything.
That Distributer cap reminded me of a time long long ago when I got to see a V16 in an old Cadillac. That was an impressive motor. Yes, I'm old as hell. Lol
Just a rubber cover to keep water off the cap. Haven't worked on a v16 Cadillac but a v12 flathead Lincoln, most interesting was the oil level float was made from a can of peaches part of the label was still on it.
Ray I was recently offered a spot as an entry level tractor trailer mechanic/shop helper. Your videos were part of my inspiration to accept. Thanks, love from Houston Texas
Congrats! Best of luck, just know there are ups and downs in shop work. Biggest help is not to focus on negatives, that just brings your own morale down.
@@Shouk02 I worked at a trailer/truck shop for 8 months. I hated trailers lmao. Everything is seized, broken or neglected because it was a fleet and they simply didn’t care. Whenever I got to work on a truck it was the best day ever cause they were new leased ones 😂 now I work at a truck dealer
It's good to see an old boat like this in one piece and at least trying to get maintained and road worthy, it's possible in Florida but up here in the rust belt, those things look like what's left of the titanic.
My mom had an 89 Vic. Loved it. It was the first vehicle that I learned how to do general maintenance on (oil changes, change an tire, etc). Ran until 2003 at 570k miles
Brings back memories. I had an '88 Grand Marquis with the 5.0 and an '81 with the 255 cid and a variable venturi carb, which required a carb rebuild every 70,000 miles. Bought them with less than 100k on the clocks and drove both until they rusted out. 260,000 and 288,000 miles respectively. Great cars. Currently rocking a 2004 Crown Vic LX Sport with the console shift and Handling/Performance Package. So much fun!
For how simple this video was, I found it helpful to know what to do for a stuck hood. I am sure I will encounter it in the future. Don't ever think small tasks are useless for TH-cam. Some people are self taught but want to do stuff right rather than figure it out on their own and potentially fail, especially on a daily driven car.
I paused this as you were putting your fuel pressure gauge on the line, to take a guess. I had a '91 5.0 mustang, it ran exactly like this after having sat for a couple months, and it ended up being a fairly decent sized vacuum leak under the intake plenum, on one of the 7 vacuum lines running around under there
Back in the day when I wrenched for the public had a customer want his brakes checked on a 1971 chevy 4x4 took me 3 hours to get back drums off then informed me he would do the work himself. Toolmarks on drums were a giveaway but remember the customer is always right. HA yeah right. He had no doubt when he left that I was one PO'ed mechanic lol. Have a blessed one Ray and may your work light always shine on you
I have read quite a few comments and some made me almost spill my coffee. I have another angle as to why this car showed up for repair. Maybe his intensions were to fix the problem himself, but couldn't get the hood open so...thanks Ray and Peter.
When I was a teenager my car was impounded as part of an investigation (long story - but no eventual charges), and when it was returned a week later the passenger door, which I hadn't been able to open or fix in over a year, was magically working. I have no doubt they thought that frozen latch mechanism was the key to... something. 🙂
I have one of these cars as my daily driver. Mine is an '87 with that exact engine. I drive it every day and love it to DEATH. It's been extremely reliable. I'll never get rid of it. Great seeing another one on here.
You can see at 2:20 in the video a crease in the hood where someone had already tried to open the hood and dented/creased the hood trying to push it down while someone pulled the lever. They, the owner of the crown vic got what he wanted. Someone to pop the hood and to tell him what was wrong with his ride so he could fix it on the cheap. Hopefully your shop has a healthy diagnosis charge.
@@68404 it depends. Do I come to the shop with a request: please diagnose whats wrong, or do I come with a plead for help, I have a suspected head gasket leak heres the new head gasket can u do the job ? In the latter I expect them to do work. In the former I expect to receive a phone call with whats needed to be done, since im a DIYer anything that isnt machining I would do myself.
Had the exact same issue, every day I worked on the rig I had to take the wedge a screwdriver and pry on the hood till it opened. The rig had the front hood creased bad on the passenger side to the point the flexing made a crack in the metal. Point: now I know to unbolt the latch-
You younger mechanics are so cute at that age... It's not an ODB system it's a EEC IV and you laid your gauge on it under the hood... that was priceless. I'm guessing you weren't around the field when diagnosis required a "breakout" box...
to go further on this it was on the fender well right there in front of where he had the fuel pressure gauge, that is where it sits on my 91 lincoln mark VII
THANK YOU! you have helped solve the same issue on a 1998 Australian Ford Fairlane with the same engine that has had nearly every fuel system component replaced by various mechanics. You are a legend!
That kind of brought back memories. We had a 1969 Ford LTD. It had air powered headlight lamp covers. When we pulled the light switch, the right side would raise up, not the left. Hubby use to get out and hit the hood with his fist and it would raise up slowly. An old Fonzie move. LOL! That's the day I fell in love with my husband. 🥰😍 I miss that old car.
I just had one of those in the shop about a week ago. Same issue with the fuel pump. Second I heard it stall under load I knew. Your diagnosis was spot on good sir... also, screw that hood latch
Growing up we had a 1972 Mercury Marquis with a 429 in it! Thing was all steel and heaven as hell, but that 429 moved that car with ease. My friends couldn’t believe that car would do burnouts! Haha good old days!
Great video, Ray. Finally a car I know and understand. So you know, 5 psi of fuel is what the mechanical fuel pumps on these cars put out. 84 was the first year of fuel injection but only some got it. Some had the dreadful 2bbl VV carburetor. That, so you know, was in use through the end of 91 on cars equipped with the 351(5.8 litre) Windsor engine. The diagnostic port, as noted by others, is on the driver's side near the master brake cylinder. I have had about every combination of engine and transmission available in a Panther as well as a pair of 78 and a pair of 79 Thunderbirds. That 5.0 got several versions in a short time. In 86 both Windsor engines had a good going through. The 302 went from 132 HP to 160 HP with single exhaust, 170 with dual. The 351 (P71/P/72 cars only in US) went from 155 up to 210 with single and 215 with dual exhaust. These latter came with the 2bbl VV carb. When it worked, it was terrific. When it went bad, rip the thing out and go Edelbrock Performer intake and carb. With the intake done and a good 2¼ exhaust, HP went up to about 225, and torque to a very healthy 450 lb/ft at 2,200 rpm. My brother had an 86 Colony Park wagon and I custom ordered an 89 Grand Marquis LS sedan, both with 351 and Trailer Tow III Package, plus I had an 87 Grand Marquis 351 with base suspension. They were mileage champs, returning about 35 miles to the US gallon on the highway.
Good one. Hope you charged him for the work you did in helping him be able to get into the hood. I bet that was the whole reason the car was in the shop knowing he would do the other work.
Yep my thoughts exactly lol he just needed the hood fixed lol and didn't want to sound dumb by saying he couldn't get the hood open 🤷♂️😁 I hope he charged him really good tho
Now let's be nice. It's possible the old man didn't have the resources to pay to have it fixed, that's why he's driving such an old car. Putting the grill back together was the only right thing to do and not socking it to the guy for diagnosing the problem. The shop has a certain reputation to uphold to keep its clientele satisfied. (Ie. You figured out what's wrong with my neighbors old car. Maybe you can fix mine, because i don't have the experience to take care of the problem...) is great word of mouth advertisement and could lead to a broader customer base.
I was dumb yesterday, spent 40 seconds trying to open the hood on a loaner Dodge Journey. Last time I used the hood latch to any Dodge, it was intuitive. The 2020 Stellantis hood? Not so much.
I worked in Canada in the early 90's for a few months and had a 1977 Ford LTD to get around in, thing handled like the Titanic, leaked oil like the Exon Valdese but was the most comfortable car I'd ever driven.
I had one in the 80's. 77 LTD II. The thing was a tank. I had a squad car cut a corner too close and he clipped my pass side bumper while I was stopped because the guy they were chasing ran past the front of my car with the K 9 in tow. The squad bent my bumper and broke my turn signal cover. My LTD totaled a qarterpanel and tweaked it's frame. If you ever get one up near 100 mph the feel like they are floating down the road.
@@douglascampbell9809 my dad owned a ‘75 markV 460v8 dark green velour , as long as a country squire wagon. So quiet you couldn’t hear or feel the engine running. Even the steering was like glass. Reminds me of the tv show Cannon.
I had a 71 Marquee Brougham. Burned oil, and smoked when idling, used gas like mad. But the comfort was amazing. After a few quarts of motor honey and a thorough cleaning and freshening of that glorious interior I drove people to and from the airport. Huge trunk too. Had many compliments of the comfort and quiet ride. But oh the gas mileage on that 429 engine.
I bought a 1992 Buick LeSabre custom. It ran great minus small oil leaks from easy gaskets. It was beautiful on the inside. I parted it out because the entire under body was cancer. Point is I love the old Buick and Lincoln dashes. I would sit in it just to imagine how nice a car like that brand new in it's time was.
People calling for a scan tool for this issue aren't realising that from experience these EEC-IV systems DON'T show a fault code for low fuel pressure,that's why they come with a check valve on the fuel rail
1986 was still speed density EEC III. It was the 1st year for port injection instead of throttle body injection. Scan tools were pretty well useless on them because they didn't support datastreaming or functional tests. The only thing that made using a scanner instead using a jumper wire in the EEC connector for CEL codes is the scanner will read both slow and fast codes with KOEO and KOER. CEL flash codes with a jumper are KOEO fast codes only. I suspect that this engine had more than 5psi of fuel pressure because it wouldn't run at all on that. He took the Schrader valve out of the rail and his hose adapter had a nipple to engage that valve and also open a check valve in the hose fitting. Me thinks he misdiagnosed either a bad MAP sensor or a IAC as a bad fuel pump because of this.
@@lysdexicsoftheworlduntie1881 If you notice the module, it's on the side of the distributor, so just like my '86 Capri HO SEFI, there should be both a connector up by the master cylinder to scan. There's also a wire with a plug that you use if you definitely have to adjust the timing, because it's all managed by that EEC-IV module which sometimes loves to overheat due to location. Teething pains on that new concept...been there, done that, have that specialty scan tool from then. My ex's '88 LX with the 5.0HO was similar, but a bit better. Still used the same scan tool. What they likely have is a clogged fuel sock, the inlet cover/filter. Probably due to rust in the tank, based on my experience with them. Yes, it was speed density in that first year they moved to all FI 5.0s, but it was the new EEC-IV system, before they improved things. The IAC was also notorious for non start, or more likely, the engine surge beast. Standing on the brake at a stop sign because the weather had recently changed a lot and a gummed throttle plate and IAC were cooperating in making the 5.0 continuously rage, then slow, could be quite the experience!
Haven't watched the video yet, but I have a funny story about engine stalling. Years ago I picked up an MGB for super cheap. It wasn't running (strange isn't it), but I knew it had good compression. Actually the car was in very good condition, except the starter was coming apart. My father rebuilt the distributor while I put the starter back together and rebuild the carburetor. When we put it back together the engine started right up and ran very smooth, engine very healthy no smoke at all. When the accelerator was pressed it died quickly. It was night, working in side yard, low visibility. I had put choke on accelerate and accelerate on choke.
Generally speaking, if the fuel pump on those cars is quiet, it's still good. The problem could also be a clogged fuel filter, a defective fuel pressure regulator (on the fuel rail) stuck open and not allowing pressure to build, or a bad rubber pick-up hose inside the tank on the fuel pump assembly. Also check for full voltage at the pump, a bad fuel pump relay or ignition switch, which powers the relay, could lead to low voltage at the pump.
Clogged fuel filter can cause the low rail pressure and the stalling issues. Just went thru diagnosing a 2000 F250 5.4, crank, no start. Fuel pressure was weak but should have fired up. Checked all fuses and relays, then cleaned every ground I could find. Checked fuel pressure at the tank, after the filter all barely in spec. No codes was the odd part. Injectors were not pulsing. Was suspecting the PCM but continued checking wires. Found the problem,a break in a wire on the engine wiring harness were it plugs into the main under hood harness. 10 minutes to fix, 2 days to find the problem I am not a trained mechanic, just fix my own junk to save money.
You are an awesome mechanic, sir! I managed a heavy truck shop for many years and in all that time I only had one mechanic that would come close to equaling your knowledge, work ethic and honesty. I salute you sir! Note: Kudos to you for removing the grill to open the hood. I bought a new Chevy pickup after retirement that had an add-on "bug deflector". Later I took it to another dealer to diagnose an issue and they told me it was caused by the deflector (held on by 4 screws) and that they (an authorized Chevrolet dealer) would charge me one hour labor to remove the shield! Have one more dealer rip-off story but this is not the time nor place for it. Thanks for the time and effort you put into sharing your adventures with us!!
…… now you are entering my territory, Ray. My neighbor and I used to work on our first cars in high school. Trips to the junkyard required disassembly of hoods like what you just did for parts. Was disappointed that it was not carbureted. I wanted to see you set the points, rebuild the carburetor and all that good old stuff. Good day to you! End transmission…
Reminds me of a Plymouth my dad bought new in the mid 70s. The hood latch wire broke, so a metal coat hanger was attached to the lever to pop it open by reaching under behind the grill. The carburetor always had issues in the winter months also
In my 92 mustang 5.0 the engine would run perfectly, then sometimes die and not start. Final fix was an engine computer. Several capacitors had leaked on to the main circuit board.
Even without the diagnostic tool, you made a good guess about the fuel pressure and were right. You have a skill. Whoever installed the engine couldn't figure it out.
Ill start by saying love this channel. But in the 86 to 96 fords the diagnostic port is obd1 and under the hood on the driver side. And the fuel check shredder valve you removed need to be in there to check it. That engine has to have it least 32psi at start up just to start. Love the channel. I'm a heavy diesel technician so this is a coming episodes for me.
This takes me back to the mid '70s when I worked in a truck shop. I had to do some work on a 1967 Mack slab cab. I brought it into the shop and started to jack up the cab so I could work on the engine. So I'm jacking up the cab and nothing is happening, I add some hydraulic oil to the jack pump and still nothing is happening. I checked around and under the truck but there were no leaks. I told the foreman and he said to park the truck back outside as we were a Cummins Engine dealership and did not do general truck repairs. When I opened the door to get back in the truck, the jack lifting rods were extended all the way up to the dash. Everything that the jack rods were attached to were so corroded and rotten the rods just came through the floor. Showed the foreman and a few other mechanics and we had a real good laugh.
Fuel, spark, or O2..What a blast from the past. Gooooowd stuff when mechanics had to be mechanics and not rely on a scan tool. Stay safe and be well Ray.
Mechanics DO still need to be mechanics. So many people end up just changing parts because of the scan tool results and don't fix the problem. Just because the trouble code points to a specific component it doesn't mean that the component itself is faulty, and that's where mechanic diagnostic skills and training come in.
@@AiMR if the car originally came with a carb, the existing fuel delivery system won't support an injected engine, not enough pressure, no return lines, wrong regulator.
Almost old school, except for the carb. I learned about cars when fuel injection was only for diesels. My first overhaul was my 1964 VW Beetle 1200cc air cooled engine. Service was points, condensor, plugs and oil. The Beetle had no oil filter, so oil was changed every 1500 miles.
You don't trash old cars ...old cars are better than new..they're built 10 times better anyways. They actually use good metal...and metal bumpers for exampls
For future reference the EEC iv ford ecu has a plug on top of the left fender inside the engine compartment which was next to the coffee can on this car. You need an obd 1 code reader and the right adapter for it to be used.
Pluggy plug thing is a star connector; pre-OBD2. You can also use a jumper wire and count the CIL flashes. Old school stuff ;) Also, could be FPR or its vac line if not the pump/filter.
When I was a mechanic with Ford with the new fangled fuel injection vehicles, and we had this same issue… we went directly to the MAP sensor. Some genius at Ford decided to put these things right under the cowling where water can easily get in them and mess them up. The tinglybob for the scan tool on these are usually in the engine bay near the heater box or on the driver’s side near the master cylinder. EEC-IV diagnostics is always a joy.
I had one of these ('86 Grand Marquis) and let me tell you I thought Ford's FI was a **dream** after that NIGHTMARE "variable venturi" mess of a carburetor in my '82. :-)
Had 84 Malibu with trick hood. Pull latch release, push down on latch till click, pull latch release again. The force (Gravity) is strong with this one ☝️
I would of guessed a carburetor, but since the engine change is total difference set up. it was funny to see you look for the comp connection for codes. didn't start those much later on. thanks for the video, it brought me memories of my younger years. my first car was a 1969 Ford custom 500, with a 289 engine. I was 18yrs old cost of the car then was only $500 bought in 1970.
Funny! I was thinking the same thing about the dash when you said it. Theres something about that long sweeping speedometer and watching the pointer going up that adds such a rush!
These are stupid comments ..it's got a little surface rust.....easily fixed...I'd take this over a newer tin can even though. I love Hondas and toyotas
@@richsweeney1115 rich sweet rich i live and work with rusty cars and farm trucks. we are just makeing little fun off the rust. take a chill pill and enjoy life and dont take everything so serius. it is obviously a joke.
I remember my father had an 80s Ford Escort, beautiful car, but I use to love starting it with a butter knife. Car manufacturers seemed to be a lot more trusting back then, or really didn't give a shit about security. I also remember starting it with a coin!
Had that same issue in my old 88 Mustang LX 5.0. Ended up being the fuel line between the pick up and pump in the tank. Had a split from the ethanol fuel. Lost fuel pressure. Replaced a 2” piece of hose and the problem was fixed.
I would try the fuel filter first, probably a lot easier to change and if it works you don't have to drop the big dollars on the pump, besides who knows what's in that old fuel tank⛽😬
Vacuum controlled fuel pressure regulator needs tested before I'd go tearing into anything else. I'd most likely replace it regardless, just because it's long in the tooth and threatening to take a scrap nap at any moment.
FYI for the future, these pre-OBDI Ford's used the EEC-IV which has a test port pigtail (one big and one small) under the hood near the brake booster. You plug in the special tester from Actron and count the flashes to get codes, which there aren't that many. Seeing that motor reminded me of my old 5.0 LX, although in the Mustangs the engine was rotated the other way; amazing the guy still has the spark plugs wire cover even!
Very cool car. I remember lots of these on the road when I was a kid in the 80's. A popular old lady car or cops. Sad they didn't want to repair. it'd have been a good video.
Yup, they were the Ford Fusion of their day. I rode in one when I was four, the smaller LTD, not the Crown Victoria. Such as shame Ford stopped producing rwd mid size cars after 1985.
Oh what fun it is to be thwarted by the old rust it closed hood latch on the Crown Victoria... as a result many took care of the people by cutting a hole in the hood... depending on the size, and with or without hood pins, sometimes equipped with chain locking devices with pad locks. It was hard in Michigan to find a good Hood for these back in the mid -to late 90’s since it was a poor design that experienced high volumes of salt spray, that one had the cable shield on it. Good job on making it through without using the BFH and or sometimes called the “FORD TOOL” back in the mid 90’s I worked at a then Premier salvage yard and we had only Ford, Lincoln, & Mercury 86-96... parts business was great and we had a strict policy of not cutting wires and Accurate parts descriptions! I was the assistant inventory manager for them at the time. Great video
Yesterday I was checking some inventory and went to the wrench boxes, one of them were missing the U join extension and I said to my boss "ey boss we need 1 wobble bits" and he looks at me like saying "wtf is this guy talking about" I was just a little ashamed, and laughing at the same time xD
I admire your patience. I'd have taken a sledgehammer to that car after the first 5 minutes of trying to get into the engine. I get the feeling that's all the customer really wanted fixed.
Ray, was the work on the hood release at no charge? Seems like that’s billable all by itself. They can’t fix their own car with a stuck hood. You got them 1/3 of the way there.
a lot of places charge a diagnostic fee. But when you have them fix it, the cost of the diagnostic fee gets applied to work, so your not paying for both.
Electric sliding couch! OMG I nearly spit my coffee all over my laptop! Three thumbs up Ray!👍👍👍
I sprayed oj all over the place
My first Crown Vic was a 1993. They still had the electric sliding couch at that time. Such a comfortable seat... My wife has told me many times that she would have been fine with me spending the money that car needed to keep it running, because of how much she loved those seats.
based on the age, I'm surprised the power seat still worked.
I love my electric sliding couch in my 84 Fifth Ave.
That was a great, an accurate, line.
Aw, a Crown Vic? You're tugging at my heart strings. My first car was a 76 Chevy Caprice. 2 keys, fuel fill inlet in the center behind the license plate, dimmer switch on the floor, 8 track player, power everything.. you're bringing back memories. And I'm not talking about some ruined car with gaudy rims and a trunk full of speakers. No, my glass house was completely stock and all original the way the universe intended.
Best comment.
@@iFixJunk Aw, thanks. It was a family heirloom. My great-grandpa bought it brand new. The original bill of sale was in the glove box. $7,300 brand new in 76. He was probably in his 70s when be bought it. It sat under his carport for 10 years and was driven just enough so the ties and oil stayed good. He died.
It sat under my grandpa's carport for another few years under a cover. He drove it to town and back occasionally to keep it in good order. So that was 2 generations.
When he died, I was just turning 16 so my dad took ownership but let me drive it for a year to make sure I'd take care of it.
Then he signed the title to me at 17. I got it with 24,000 original miles in 1998. I drove it all through high school and most of college. All of my friends took to calling it The Tank until they rode in it. Then it also earned the nickname The Yacht. It glided down the road like a big boat floating across the water.
Someone stole it in 2006 and I never saw it again.
I literally cried.
I loved that car to death. Four generations and even though I drove it like crazy, it only had 84,000 original miles.
I've been looking for another one ever since. Baby blue, four door, power everything, all original. It had that vinyl top on the back half of the roof in a darker blue. She was perfection. If I ever find another one, I'd pay anything for it. My dad is 70 now and I know he'd like to drive it again one more time.
Man these cars were great, it’s a shame they stole yours :(
those fuel fillers/tanks are the first thing that gets scrapped in a stoplight or drag car.
Was it 2 doors or 4?
Yay more Peter. He seems to be the one that keeps you sane
Yeah, his verbiage adds many levels of color to the conversation.
"This is a family-friendly channel, Peter!"
Petah! Is a dancing queen.
We need more mechanics like you man, not only do you do great work but you can still work on a car without a fancy computer. Up here just about every shop denied to work on my truck because the obd2 port was torn out by original owner. There excuse is they cant diagnose a vehichle without being able to hook up a computer to it.
Back when cars were made with enough chrome you could see the cameraman. 🙂
Plastic chrome?
@@dennislyon5412 yes
"chrome"
@@dennislyon5412 turns out, chrome covered plastic had been used for decades BEFORE this car came out. Bumpers are about the only metal chrome beyond the 60's
@Shawn Stafford I'd still like to get a nice chrome metal grille for my 80's and 90's trucks
This put a smile on my face! Because this is the they built them in my day. Not the hood latch not working😁
I have my late grandfather's 1987 LTD Crown Vic that was doing the same thing to him. He put a fuel pump in it and it did not fix it. Turns out the problem was the ignition switch was full of corrosion and the supply voltage to the fuel pump was low and causing the car to run bad and eat fuel pumps. Fast forward 15 years later (last winter), and I'm having problems with the wipers and the radio randomly not working and it was the ignition switch AGAIN. I took it apart and cleaned all the contacts inside of it (they were filthy), and everything started working again.
That's some tricky stuff. Woul never have considered it. Thanks!
This guy will probably wind up taking it to a different mechanic if the fuel pump itself doesn't turn out to be the whole of the problem. Guaranteed he'll whine that Ray did the job wrong when he really didn't give Ray the chance to dig deeper and refine his analysis. Further, if he's such a mechanical whiz, why was just getting the bonnet open a mission almost impossible. The owner obviously hasn't opened his own bonnet in a very long time so, it will be back to someone to do the job. When the owner lets even the bonnet release get that bad I can't really imagine him doing even a job like this without messing something up then taking it back to yet another mechanic and then doing the same as here and expecting someone else to work out the hard way just what mysterious things he's stuffed up next.
@@philc7192 I tracked it down by voltage dropping legs of the supply circuits until I narrowed down the general location of the excessive resistance. A simple A to B resistance check with a DVOM wouldn't have shown any issues. The meter showed negligible resistance through the ignition switch, but a voltage drop showed a HUGE drop across the switch assembly.
That says a lot of Ford, not many 35 year old cars still on the road today.
@@kidd1072 it's been fairly reliable for the 10 years I've owned it. Only problems have been related to NW Ohio rust. I've replaced all the brake lines and most of the fuel lines. It leaks everything from everywhere but it always starts and has never left me stranded. I've heard an old saying that goes: "an old Ford will drive broken forever" and this car is proof of that. I'm going to pull the engine soon to do an HO conversion and reseal everything.
I like honesty, the guy obviously needs all the help he can get.
That Distributer cap reminded me of a time long long ago when I got to see a V16 in an old Cadillac. That was an impressive motor. Yes, I'm old as hell. Lol
Just a rubber cover to keep water off the cap. Haven't worked on a v16 Cadillac but a v12 flathead Lincoln, most interesting was the oil level float was made from a can of peaches part of the label was still on it.
Old school lol .that was my 🌎 back in the day . Keep up the good work ty
Silly Ray all he really needed was his hood opened Mission accomplished!!
I was thinking the same thing.
Really expensive hood issue, fuel pump on that car is probably a relatively easy job.
Absolutely true.
I was thinking the same thing. LoL
I wouldn’t fix the hood, unless I called him, saying, the hood can’t be opened.
Ray I was recently offered a spot as an entry level tractor trailer mechanic/shop helper. Your videos were part of my inspiration to accept. Thanks, love from Houston Texas
Congrats! Best of luck, just know there are ups and downs in shop work. Biggest help is not to focus on negatives, that just brings your own morale down.
Tractor trailers are a blast to work on. Mainly because things tend to be less buried but best of luck to ya
@@Shouk02 I worked at a trailer/truck shop for 8 months. I hated trailers lmao. Everything is seized, broken or neglected because it was a fleet and they simply didn’t care. Whenever I got to work on a truck it was the best day ever cause they were new leased ones 😂 now I work at a truck dealer
@@Shouk02 salt water boat trailers are the best fun if you like to be destructive.
I hope it worked out for you in your new job,ok.
Peter seems to have mastered the art of hood CPR.
6.10 if you missed it. My internet comment of the day. Humor trumps bad mouthing every day.
Should be shouting “clear!” when pushing down on the bonnet lol..
I’m Australian by the way so we call the hood a bonnet 😀
It's good to see an old boat like this in one piece and at least trying to get maintained and road worthy, it's possible in Florida but up here in the rust belt, those things look like what's left of the titanic.
Not if you take care of them.....
My mom had an 89 Vic. Loved it. It was the first vehicle that I learned how to do general maintenance on (oil changes, change an tire, etc). Ran until 2003 at 570k miles
What died at 570K, that made it not worth keeping? The suspense is killing me.
That's the last decade Ford made anything of quality
wow, my son only has 260k on his 04
@@jfreelan1964 rust out frame
@@louoldschool7047 I’m from the UK and know the panther platform is one of the best
Brings back memories. I had an '88 Grand Marquis with the 5.0 and an '81 with the 255 cid and a variable venturi carb, which required a carb rebuild every 70,000 miles. Bought them with less than 100k on the clocks and drove both until they rusted out. 260,000 and 288,000 miles respectively. Great cars. Currently rocking a 2004 Crown Vic LX Sport with the console shift and Handling/Performance Package. So much fun!
For how simple this video was, I found it helpful to know what to do for a stuck hood. I am sure I will encounter it in the future. Don't ever think small tasks are useless for TH-cam. Some people are self taught but want to do stuff right rather than figure it out on their own and potentially fail, especially on a daily driven car.
The best one-haned-working on cars-presentator-cameraman- technician in TH-cam
I had a 1984 Mercury Grand Marquis and it was probably one of my favorite vehicles!! I behaved similarly and ultimately was the fuel filter.
So do I! Almost finished an LS swap with holley EFI! shell be runnin hot hot in no time!
@@anonymousranter2583 extremely expensive now...
Us Brits like the old American cars, I don't know how I found your videos but I enjoy watching them.
I paused this as you were putting your fuel pressure gauge on the line, to take a guess. I had a '91 5.0 mustang, it ran exactly like this after having sat for a couple months, and it ended up being a fairly decent sized vacuum leak under the intake plenum, on one of the 7 vacuum lines running around under there
Chased that for awhile myself on my 91 as well. Stupid place to put a vacuum tree on the underside of the intake.
Back in the day when I wrenched for the public had a customer want his brakes checked on a 1971 chevy 4x4 took me 3 hours to get back drums off then informed me he would do the work himself. Toolmarks on drums were a giveaway but remember the customer is always right. HA yeah right. He had no doubt when he left that I was one PO'ed mechanic lol. Have a blessed one Ray and may your work light always shine on you
I love seeing these older cars from time to time
We had an '85 Grand Marquis when I was a kid. My dad, to this day, misses that old Panther.
I have read quite a few comments and some made me almost spill my coffee. I have another angle as to why this car showed up for repair. Maybe his intensions were to fix the problem himself, but couldn't get the hood open so...thanks Ray and Peter.
owner would have known full well
@@randomrazr may be, may be not.
@@charliefox7206 he clearly worked on the car prior
When I was a teenager my car was impounded as part of an investigation (long story - but no eventual charges), and when it was returned a week later the passenger door, which I hadn't been able to open or fix in over a year, was magically working. I have no doubt they thought that frozen latch mechanism was the key to... something. 🙂
I have one of these cars as my daily driver. Mine is an '87 with that exact engine. I drive it every day and love it to DEATH. It's been extremely reliable. I'll never get rid of it. Great seeing another one on here.
You can see at 2:20 in the video a crease in the hood where someone had already tried to open the hood and dented/creased the hood trying to push it down while someone pulled the lever. They, the owner of the crown vic got what he wanted. Someone to pop the hood and to tell him what was wrong with his ride so he could fix it on the cheap. Hopefully your shop has a healthy diagnosis charge.
You'd think the owner would just say 'Fix it mate'
@@68404 it depends. Do I come to the shop with a request: please diagnose whats wrong, or do I come with a plead for help, I have a suspected head gasket leak heres the new head gasket can u do the job ?
In the latter I expect them to do work. In the former I expect to receive a phone call with whats needed to be done, since im a DIYer anything that isnt machining I would do myself.
Had the exact same issue, every day I worked on the rig I had to take the wedge a screwdriver and pry on the hood till it opened. The rig had the front hood creased bad on the passenger side to the point the flexing made a crack in the metal. Point: now I know to unbolt the latch-
You younger mechanics are so cute at that age...
It's not an ODB system it's a EEC IV and you laid your gauge on it under the hood... that was priceless.
I'm guessing you weren't around the field when diagnosis required a "breakout" box...
For those, you need an EEC IV scanner (pre-OBD-II) and the plugs are under the hood near the master cylinder.
I have a Actron CP9690 Trilingual that reads my old 95 F150. Even gives some useful live data.
to go further on this it was on the fender well right there in front of where he had the fuel pressure gauge, that is where it sits on my 91 lincoln mark VII
Good call, some early cars had them hidden in odd spots like the glovebox too.
OBD1, my 89 Econoline has it, you don't get a lot of help diagnosing with it.
@@tomn8tr I have that same one with GM and Chrysler/Jeep cartridge s. Looking for the Ford one as well.
Gotta love the electric sliding couch in these older rigs @Rainman Ray's Repairs
THANK YOU! you have helped solve the same issue on a 1998 Australian Ford Fairlane with the same engine that has had nearly every fuel system component replaced by various mechanics. You are a legend!
That kind of brought back memories.
We had a 1969 Ford LTD. It had air powered headlight lamp covers.
When we pulled the light switch, the right side would raise up, not the left. Hubby use to get out and hit the hood with his fist and it would raise up slowly. An old Fonzie move. LOL! That's the day I fell in love with my husband. 🥰😍
I miss that old car.
I just had one of those in the shop about a week ago. Same issue with the fuel pump. Second I heard it stall under load I knew. Your diagnosis was spot on good sir... also, screw that hood latch
Please don't tell me the fuel pump is in the tank requiring it to dropped?
@@vw5056 It MIGHT have had a high and low pressure...one in-line and one in the tank.
Growing up we had a 1972 Mercury Marquis with a 429 in it! Thing was all steel and heaven as hell, but that 429 moved that car with ease. My friends couldn’t believe that car would do burnouts! Haha good old days!
Great video, Ray. Finally a car I know and understand. So you know, 5 psi of fuel is what the mechanical fuel pumps on these cars put out. 84 was the first year of fuel injection but only some got it. Some had the dreadful 2bbl VV carburetor. That, so you know, was in use through the end of 91 on cars equipped with the 351(5.8 litre) Windsor engine. The diagnostic port, as noted by others, is on the driver's side near the master brake cylinder.
I have had about every combination of engine and transmission available in a Panther as well as a pair of 78 and a pair of 79 Thunderbirds. That 5.0 got several versions in a short time. In 86 both Windsor engines had a good going through. The 302 went from 132 HP to 160 HP with single exhaust, 170 with dual. The 351 (P71/P/72 cars only in US) went from 155 up to 210 with single and 215 with dual exhaust. These latter came with the 2bbl VV carb. When it worked, it was terrific. When it went bad, rip the thing out and go Edelbrock Performer intake and carb. With the intake done and a good 2¼ exhaust, HP went up to about 225, and torque to a very healthy 450 lb/ft at 2,200 rpm. My brother had an 86 Colony Park wagon and I custom ordered an 89 Grand Marquis LS sedan, both with 351 and Trailer Tow III Package, plus I had an 87 Grand Marquis 351 with base suspension. They were mileage champs, returning about 35 miles to the US gallon on the highway.
My first car was an 87 Vic. It was a beast, this video brings back memories. Great videos, love the channel.
Good one. Hope you charged him for the work you did in helping him be able to get into the hood. I bet that was the whole reason the car was in the shop knowing he would do the other work.
Yep my thoughts exactly lol he just needed the hood fixed lol and didn't want to sound dumb by saying he couldn't get the hood open 🤷♂️😁 I hope he charged him really good tho
i say the same, should left everything like how you received it, leave it stuck, that bastard
Now let's be nice. It's possible the old man didn't have the resources to pay to have it fixed, that's why he's driving such an old car. Putting the grill back together was the only right thing to do and not socking it to the guy for diagnosing the problem. The shop has a certain reputation to uphold to keep its clientele satisfied. (Ie. You figured out what's wrong with my neighbors old car. Maybe you can fix mine, because i don't have the experience to take care of the problem...) is great word of mouth advertisement and could lead to a broader customer base.
Because paying a tow bill twice is easier than removing a grill
I was dumb yesterday, spent 40 seconds trying to open the hood on a loaner Dodge Journey. Last time I used the hood latch to any Dodge, it was intuitive. The 2020 Stellantis hood? Not so much.
You were very fortunate to be able to access the Hood Latch through the Grille.
I worked in Canada in the early 90's for a few months and had a 1977 Ford LTD to get around in, thing handled like the Titanic, leaked oil like the Exon Valdese but was the most comfortable car I'd ever driven.
Some of the best seats ever!
I had one in the 80's. 77 LTD II. The thing was a tank. I had a squad car cut a corner too close and he clipped my pass side bumper while I was stopped because the guy they were chasing ran past the front of my car with the K 9 in tow.
The squad bent my bumper and broke my turn signal cover.
My LTD totaled a qarterpanel and tweaked it's frame.
If you ever get one up near 100 mph the feel like they are floating down the road.
@@douglascampbell9809 my dad owned a ‘75 markV 460v8 dark green velour , as long as a country squire wagon. So quiet you couldn’t hear or feel the engine running. Even the steering was like glass. Reminds me of the tv show Cannon.
That's all my grandfather would drive it was like riding a marshmallow on a cloud.
I had a 71 Marquee Brougham. Burned oil, and smoked when idling, used gas like mad. But the comfort was amazing. After a few quarts of motor honey and a thorough cleaning and freshening of that glorious interior I drove people to and from the airport. Huge trunk too. Had many compliments of the comfort and quiet ride. But oh the gas mileage on that 429 engine.
I bought a 1992 Buick LeSabre custom. It ran great minus small oil leaks from easy gaskets. It was beautiful on the inside. I parted it out because the entire under body was cancer. Point is I love the old Buick and Lincoln dashes. I would sit in it just to imagine how nice a car like that brand new in it's time was.
People calling for a scan tool for this issue aren't realising that from experience these EEC-IV systems DON'T show a fault code for low fuel pressure,that's why they come with a check valve on the fuel rail
And the plug is under the hood for the OBD1 code reader.
And no warning for an evap purge valve because no gas tank pressure sensor or evap flow sensor. Still better than the early GM efi stuff.
KOER test
KOEO test
those models didnt have alot of codes period.
1986 was still speed density EEC III. It was the 1st year for port injection instead of throttle body injection. Scan tools were pretty well useless on them because they didn't support datastreaming or functional tests. The only thing that made using a scanner instead using a jumper wire in the EEC connector for CEL codes is the scanner will read both slow and fast codes with KOEO and KOER. CEL flash codes with a jumper are KOEO fast codes only. I suspect that this engine had more than 5psi of fuel pressure because it wouldn't run at all on that. He took the Schrader valve out of the rail and his hose adapter had a nipple to engage that valve and also open a check valve in the hose fitting. Me thinks he misdiagnosed either a bad MAP sensor or a IAC as a bad fuel pump because of this.
@@lysdexicsoftheworlduntie1881 If you notice the module, it's on the side of the distributor, so just like my '86 Capri HO SEFI, there should be both a connector up by the master cylinder to scan. There's also a wire with a plug that you use if you definitely have to adjust the timing, because it's all managed by that EEC-IV module which sometimes loves to overheat due to location.
Teething pains on that new concept...been there, done that, have that specialty scan tool from then. My ex's '88 LX with the 5.0HO was similar, but a bit better. Still used the same scan tool.
What they likely have is a clogged fuel sock, the inlet cover/filter. Probably due to rust in the tank, based on my experience with them.
Yes, it was speed density in that first year they moved to all FI 5.0s, but it was the new EEC-IV system, before they improved things.
The IAC was also notorious for non start, or more likely, the engine surge beast. Standing on the brake at a stop sign because the weather had recently changed a lot and a gummed throttle plate and IAC were cooperating in making the 5.0 continuously rage, then slow, could be quite the experience!
Haven't watched the video yet, but I have a funny story about engine stalling. Years ago I picked up an MGB for super cheap. It wasn't running (strange isn't it), but I knew it had good compression. Actually the car was in very good condition, except the starter was coming apart. My father rebuilt the distributor while I put the starter back together and rebuild the carburetor. When we put it back together the engine started right up and ran very smooth, engine very healthy no smoke at all. When the accelerator was pressed it died quickly. It was night, working in side yard, low visibility. I had put choke on accelerate and accelerate on choke.
Generally speaking, if the fuel pump on those cars is quiet, it's still good. The problem could also be a clogged fuel filter, a defective fuel pressure regulator (on the fuel rail) stuck open and not allowing pressure to build, or a bad rubber pick-up hose inside the tank on the fuel pump assembly. Also check for full voltage at the pump, a bad fuel pump relay or ignition switch, which powers the relay, could lead to low voltage at the pump.
Clogged fuel filter can cause the low rail pressure and the stalling issues.
Just went thru diagnosing a 2000 F250 5.4, crank, no start. Fuel pressure was weak but should have fired up. Checked all fuses and relays, then cleaned every ground I could find. Checked fuel pressure at the tank, after the filter all barely in spec.
No codes was the odd part. Injectors were not pulsing. Was suspecting the PCM but continued checking wires. Found the problem,a break in a wire on the engine wiring harness were it plugs into the main under hood harness. 10 minutes to fix, 2 days to find the problem
I am not a trained mechanic, just fix my own junk to save money.
The OBD1 plug is laying on top of the wheel well, drivers side. I think 86 was the first year on the Vics for fuel injection as well.
You are an awesome mechanic, sir! I managed a heavy truck shop for many years and in all that time I only had one mechanic that would come close to equaling your knowledge, work ethic and honesty. I salute you sir! Note: Kudos to you for removing the grill to open the hood. I bought a new Chevy pickup after retirement that had an add-on "bug deflector". Later I took it to another dealer to diagnose an issue and they told me it was caused by the deflector (held on by 4 screws) and that they (an authorized Chevrolet dealer) would charge me one hour labor to remove the shield! Have one more dealer rip-off story but this is not the time nor place for it. Thanks for the time and effort you put into sharing your adventures with us!!
He is a horrible mechanic I guess you have no experience working on cars amazed at his stupidity
@@jeffereyduran8728 So where's your TH-cam channel?
Yeah, that's what I thought!
Thanks for cheering me up today. I had a great laugh at your expense (sorry) watching you and you colleague wrestling with that hood! 🤭🙀👍👍
Well at least you showed us how to open a hood. So it not a total loss of a video 😊
The fuel pressure gauge was laying directly on top of the OBD-I port!
Lol
The Ray and Peeeteeer show is the best thing on TH-cam!
…… now you are entering my territory, Ray. My neighbor and I used to work on our first cars in high school. Trips to the junkyard required disassembly of hoods like what you just did for parts. Was disappointed that it was not carbureted. I wanted to see you set the points, rebuild the carburetor and all that good old stuff. Good day to you! End transmission…
they stopped using carburetors over 30 years ago....
"Well, it starts! That's a bonus" 😆. After wrenching for 30+ years, I know that feeling all too well 👍😁
Ray, I think someone bet money to see how far you would get on this repair.
Reminds me of a Plymouth my dad bought new in the mid 70s. The hood latch wire broke, so a metal coat hanger was attached to the lever to pop it open by reaching under behind the grill. The carburetor always had issues in the winter months also
In my 92 mustang 5.0 the engine would run perfectly, then sometimes die and not start. Final fix was an engine computer. Several capacitors had leaked on to the main circuit board.
salted-road runner?
Even without the diagnostic tool, you made a good guess about the fuel pressure and were right. You have a skill. Whoever installed the engine couldn't figure it out.
Ill start by saying love this channel. But in the 86 to 96 fords the diagnostic port is obd1 and under the hood on the driver side. And the fuel check shredder valve you removed need to be in there to check it. That engine has to have it least 32psi at start up just to start. Love the channel. I'm a heavy diesel technician so this is a coming episodes for me.
This takes me back to the mid '70s when I worked in a truck shop. I had to do some work on a 1967 Mack slab cab. I brought it into the shop and started to jack up the cab so I could work on the engine. So I'm jacking up the cab and nothing is happening, I add some hydraulic oil to the jack pump and still nothing is happening. I checked around and under the truck but there were no leaks. I told the foreman and he said to park the truck back outside as we were a Cummins Engine dealership and did not do general truck repairs. When I opened the door to get back in the truck, the jack lifting rods were extended all the way up to the dash. Everything that the jack rods were attached to were so corroded and rotten the rods just came through the floor. Showed the foreman and a few other mechanics and we had a real good laugh.
Fuel, spark, or O2..What a blast from the past. Gooooowd stuff when mechanics had to be mechanics and not rely on a scan tool. Stay safe and be well Ray.
Mechanics DO still need to be mechanics. So many people end up just changing parts because of the scan tool results and don't fix the problem. Just because the trouble code points to a specific component it doesn't mean that the component itself is faulty, and that's where mechanic diagnostic skills and training come in.
Ruling out the engine, I think fuel pump is failing?
They have an OBD 1 port on those to hook up scan tool around the drive side of the car under hood
Back then, it took 1 hour to diagnose, 5 minutes to fix. Today, 5 minutes to diagnose, 3 hours to fix!
@@AiMR if the car originally came with a carb, the existing fuel delivery system won't support an injected engine, not enough pressure, no return lines, wrong regulator.
Almost old school, except for the carb. I learned about cars when fuel injection was only for diesels. My first overhaul was my 1964 VW Beetle 1200cc air cooled engine. Service was points, condensor, plugs and oil. The Beetle had no oil filter, so oil was changed every 1500 miles.
I'm in awe of your tenacity and patience. I would have opted for your buddy's idea.... grenade!
the only thing that prevented me suggesting repurposing the vehicle as a boat anchor is that it's a Ford
You don't trash old cars ...old cars are better than new..they're built 10 times better anyways. They actually use good metal...and metal bumpers for exampls
My grandad had that car back in the 90s...cool to see one still on the road.
For future reference the EEC iv ford ecu has a plug on top of the left fender inside the engine compartment which was next to the coffee can on this car. You need an obd 1 code reader and the right adapter for it to be used.
I have an old Snap-on brick for when something like this comes in. IMO it works better than newer scanners with compatible adapter.
Oh lord this one brought back memories . Working on old cars . You two are bloody hilarious .
thats not old- old cars didn't have electric fuel pumps.
@@tommurphy4307 touche.
Pluggy plug thing is a star connector; pre-OBD2. You can also use a jumper wire and count the CIL flashes. Old school stuff ;) Also, could be FPR or its vac line if not the pump/filter.
I think you mean pre OBD
@@nickzaremba OBD2 came out in 1996 and was mandatory for a cars sold in the US. OBD is just a generic term, star for example is a type of OBD
they make a plug that jumps it so you can't short something out in there...
Damn, I'm surprised you are willing to look at this old classic. All the shops in my area wont look at anything older than 1996. Good on you my man!
When I was a mechanic with Ford with the new fangled fuel injection vehicles, and we had this same issue… we went directly to the MAP sensor. Some genius at Ford decided to put these things right under the cowling where water can easily get in them and mess them up.
The tinglybob for the scan tool on these are usually in the engine bay near the heater box or on the driver’s side near the master cylinder. EEC-IV diagnostics is always a joy.
I had one of these ('86 Grand Marquis) and let me tell you I thought Ford's FI was a **dream** after that NIGHTMARE "variable venturi" mess of a carburetor in my '82. :-)
@@joez.2794 I can relate as I had a 1979 Grand Marquis.
I love how you worked on something old school and overcame it because it didn't have an OBD1 or OBD2
I would have enjoyed seeing this repair done.
Had 84 Malibu with trick hood. Pull latch release, push down on latch till click, pull latch release again.
The force (Gravity) is strong with this one ☝️
This LTD had the super Anti-Theft hood latch to protect all that valuable under hood equipment.
Yeah the battery
I would of guessed a carburetor, but since the engine change is total difference set up. it was funny to see you look for the comp connection for codes. didn't start those much later on. thanks for the video, it brought me memories of my younger years. my first car was a 1969 Ford custom 500, with a 289 engine. I was 18yrs old cost of the car then was only $500 bought in 1970.
The LTD brought back memories. My dad drive one just like it for years!
why didn't he put a new ignition switch in it?
That 5.0 was a Ford staple in everything from a Lincoln Continental to the Fox body mustangs, Really a great engine!
You and Peter working together was priceless! “Here, hold my nuts” 😂
zeroo lumbar support but they were comfy af
Right after telling him to watch his "potty mouth"!!😁
if he interpreted that wrong, would he have been fired?
@@Liberallez double entendre is safe and used a LOT in "childrens" cartoons, Sponge Bob has it a LOT.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Funny! I was thinking the same thing about the dash when you said it. Theres something about that long sweeping speedometer and watching the pointer going up that adds such a rush!
easy on the banging! the rust will come off! 🙂
@BigMikeMelk :
Yeah, without the rust, it'll fall apart.
🙂
@@K7DFA with great rust comes great rustibility
These are stupid comments
..it's got a little surface rust.....easily fixed...I'd take this over a newer tin can even though. I love Hondas and toyotas
@@K7DFA it's made better than new cars
@@richsweeney1115 rich sweet rich i live and work with rusty cars and farm trucks. we are just makeing little fun off the rust. take a chill pill and enjoy life and dont take everything so serius. it is obviously a joke.
First rule of doing an oil change, make sure you can pop the hood before you drain the pan.
Ever get the feeling that the owner just wanted you to diagnose the issue and was never going to authorize the repair?
Yeah im pretty sure that's what happened. Probably also wanted to get help with the hood latch lol
It makes sense if you're good with tools but not troubleshooting, or you don't want to spend a lot of time attempting to find the issue.
Yep. He still had to pay for diagnosic and hood latch repair
$450 diagnostic with hood latch repair ...or we can fix the whole thing for $500...which is twice what the car is worth.
@@utbelegs good one
As soon as I heard it struggling under acceleration I knew it was a fuel pump issue
Good work
I remember my father had an 80s Ford Escort, beautiful car, but I use to love starting it with a butter knife. Car manufacturers seemed to be a lot more trusting back then, or really didn't give a shit about security. I also remember starting it with a coin!
That was more a fault of the ignition switch's innards rotting out.
Like who would steel it???
your lock cylinder was fried
Had that same issue in my old 88 Mustang LX 5.0. Ended up being the fuel line between the pick up and pump in the tank. Had a split from the ethanol fuel. Lost fuel pressure. Replaced a 2” piece of hose and the problem was fixed.
I would try the fuel filter first, probably a lot easier to change and if it works you don't have to drop the big dollars on the pump, besides who knows what's in that old fuel tank⛽😬
Based on the hood latch, I'd say changing the fuel filter will be a 4 hour job.
@@SteveTheExploiter More like two bolts and two fuel line disconnects lol
The pump will probably come from a junkyard, which is probably where the replacement engine came from.
Vacuum controlled fuel pressure regulator needs tested before I'd go tearing into anything else.
I'd most likely replace it regardless, just because it's long in the tooth and threatening to take a scrap nap at any moment.
@@gregoryking9348In which case I'm wondering how old the vaccum line/hose to that regulator is at this point, too.
FYI for the future, these pre-OBDI Ford's used the EEC-IV which has a test port pigtail (one big and one small) under the hood near the brake booster. You plug in the special tester from Actron and count the flashes to get codes, which there aren't that many.
Seeing that motor reminded me of my old 5.0 LX, although in the Mustangs the engine was rotated the other way; amazing the guy still has the spark plugs wire cover even!
Very cool car. I remember lots of these on the road when I was a kid in the 80's. A popular old lady car or cops. Sad they didn't want to repair. it'd have been a good video.
Yup, they were the Ford Fusion of their day. I rode in one when I was four, the smaller LTD, not the Crown Victoria. Such as shame Ford stopped producing rwd mid size cars after 1985.
As shops / techs we need to start charging more for diagnostics. To many people use our knowledge and don’t want to pay for it.
So happy to see Peter back in action with you! Love the comedy that you play off each other!! You make a great team!!
guys that build cars together are the same way
Oh what fun it is to be thwarted by the old rust it closed hood latch on the Crown Victoria...
as a result many took care of the people by cutting a hole in the hood... depending on the size, and with or without hood pins, sometimes equipped with chain locking devices with pad locks. It was hard in Michigan to find a good Hood for these back in the mid -to late 90’s since it was a poor design that experienced high volumes of salt spray, that one had the cable shield on it.
Good job on making it through without using the BFH and or sometimes called the “FORD TOOL” back in the mid 90’s I worked at a then Premier salvage yard and we had only Ford, Lincoln, & Mercury 86-96... parts business was great and we had a strict policy of not cutting wires and Accurate parts descriptions!
I was the assistant inventory manager for them at the time.
Great video
Yesterday I was checking some inventory and went to the wrench boxes, one of them were missing the U join extension and I said to my boss "ey boss we need 1 wobble bits" and he looks at me like saying "wtf is this guy talking about"
I was just a little ashamed, and laughing at the same time xD
Ok
What happens when he asks for a distributor wrench?
I admire your patience. I'd have taken a sledgehammer to that car after the first 5 minutes of trying to get into the engine. I get the feeling that's all the customer really wanted fixed.
Just goes to show, with enough lubrication, anything is possible !!
....said Dr. Ruth😂
@Gary Makin :
It depends on whether you're "lubricating" the parts, or the "mechanic"!
Get ready, customer doesn't want you to fix it. No charge. Lube up Ray!
Holy Cow you were right!! A whole video about getting the hood open...🤠👍
Stuck hood? For how many years hasn't he changed the oil or checked the oil level? 🤪
Bingo.
It's a Ford, so failing to maintain the blinker fluid can cause that too.
I find that White Lithium Grease sprayed on those parts works wonders. It also helps get rid of squeaky door hinges.
Petar’s attempt to keep if family friendly was hilarious!
I like watching all your videos that you put on TH-cam! Keep up all the great talent workmanship that you do everyday. Thank You. Rain man.
That car, if maintained well, should be very comfortable. 👍😁
theyre comfortable even when their broken-down...
I like seeing you work on older cars and diagnosing without a computer. It is quite impressive! 👍
My first thought was a clogged fuel filter. Let us know if you find out what the problem was for sure.
The hood release THING on this THING...👍Mechanic Jargon
Ray, was the work on the hood release at no charge? Seems like that’s billable all by itself. They can’t fix their own car with a stuck hood. You got them 1/3 of the way there.
a lot of places charge a diagnostic fee. But when you have them fix it, the cost of the diagnostic fee gets applied to work, so your not paying for both.