Overheated after new Radiator! Tow In! Infiniti 3.5 EX35
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 เม.ย. 2022
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Probably the first time that radiator actually had pressure in awhile. Old one was probably leaking or not coming up to pressure so it didn't leak at the heater hose. New radiator got up to good pressure and found the next weak link.
My thoughts exactly
This! Old car, you fix one leak and the next weak spot will show itself
That's how it was with my old Jeep. Replaced the radiator cap, and suddenly it had the correct pressure so the water pump started leaking. Replaced the water pump, and wouldn't you know it, the radiator gave out.
I came down here to say the very same thing.
Chevy cruze. 2 years old. Water pump failure.. next year water outlet... next year water pump.. next year over heats on my way home blows all the fluid out the tank. I sold it knocking to toyota.. some vehicles are trash.. 58k miles
Ray next time you go to Home Depot, Lowes, Ace or any decent hardware store pickup some brass hose barbs they are stronger and aren't affected by the heat they will cost much less than anything you get from a parts store and you will have them in your tool box.
I definitely try to put metal ones back in. However the plastic distribution valve is the only thing I can find. I can find metal ones.
I stick with plastic only because I don't want any type of chemical reaction with the metal/coolant.
you just beat me to that suggestion lol
@@davidheale6435 I would use steel or aluminum barbed couplings
@@brucestorey917 Yes, I use stainless menders. I've had the brass ones fail over time.
watching you trying to fish that plastic coupler brought back memories of why I no longer pull wrenches for a living. People have NOT IDEA how hard and frustrating being a line mechanic is. I respect you for NOT cussing. I was never that disciplined.
Reminds me of the dentist trying to pull my wisdom tooth which broke into pieces.
I curse all the time but that's seems the work get done for me 😜sometime I wish tho I was a bit more patiant
You are one of the most patient people that I’ve ever seen. I could not be a mechanic as I would have burned the car down trying to work in small places. You have a special talent.
The broken barb was originally a bleeder valve you crack open when filling with coolant. Common problem on these VQ's for them to break. They make metal replacements that last a lot longer. Makes bleeding the coolant much easier when you have one in there. No bleeder valve when filling and that's why it took so long to bleed of air. Head gasket is more than likely fine.
That's good to know then.
Why is it overheating still then?
Exactly right. That's a bleeder valve that needs to be replaced with something other than what our man Ray used. They are crap quality, even the new, replacement valves from the dealer.
@@shaunkelly9053 Because there's still air in the system. You see how it kept bubbling even after attempting to bleed it for a while? The air is trapped in there and it's not getting out until it's bled correctly.
Nissan has a very specific bleeding procedure for these engines. Basic idea is to crack open the bleeder valve and then start slowly refilling the system. As soon as it starts pouring out of the bleeder valve, you close it and continue to refill until the system is full. Then you blast the heat and do the normal procedure like any other car.
@@Paul-oh4fe Yeah but you should mention to not turn the car on yet. First open the bleeder valve with the car off and slowly pour into the fill funnel at the radiator neck until you see Coolant start to come out the bleeder valve. Then Close the bleeder valve and continue pouring until it stabilizes at the funnel and you cant pour anymore. Then you go inside the vehicle and turn it on and blast the heater on Max. Wait a couple seconds for the coolant in the funnel to get sucked in by the engine and continue to poor until it stabilizes again at the funnel. Their will be some bubbles from the air escaping dont be scared about that, but once you see that you cant fill anymore go back in the car and hold the Rpm’s at 3000 or so for 10 seconds and do this every 3 minutes to make sure all the air gets out the system. You basically just do that until theirs little to no bubbles coming from the Funnel at the radiator neck. Ive done this on my Hr so i memorized the entire process 😂
Ray, glad to see you like the funnel set I sent you!
I really liked mine, saves lots of coolant spills.
Eric the Car guy had one, so I had to get on too 😉.
its really the apropriate way to burp all sealed cooling systems the right away to
What's this funnel set called? I I assume it seals to the filler opening so that systems that require a purge get completely filled. I do not do a lot of work any more but seem like a good tool on todays cars.
@@fredrickdavenport1611 Just Google radiator funnel kit. It will come right up.
you gonna bring it up everytime he fills a radiator?
As a mechanic with 50 Years experience, I Applaud your posts, Wish we had More like You out there
Ray, love your subtle innuendos throughout many of your videos. Has me chuckling during morning coffee. Thanks for the great clarity on what you’re doing and keeping smiles on our faces
Wow what a unfriendly engine compartment to work in. I do not envy your job Ray, but I respect how you always put 110% effort into every car you service.
Totally agree 🥇
Agree x2
That is most vehicles now
I feel like when they engineer these things they don't consider the serviceability of it. Most notorious with German and Japanese makes.
@@RyanBurnsRed
Most are built and designed for install efficiency at the plant when built.
When I watch your videos I start to feel that I'm not retired and look forward to tomorrow's job. Thanks
What I love about watching these is appreciating how a skilled tradesman can alternate between using brute force and delicate persuasion.
Great job on using your assets to find a problem. When I was an instructor at Norfolk, VA in the 80s, I always told my students to use their senses to try and find and troubleshoot. See, hear, feel and smell will very often locate a problem before going to schematic and tester.
I like how almost all your videos has that coworker running the die grinder for no reason. It actually adds to the other sounds of the repair shop and sounds good. It adds to the background noises that one would expect to hear in a repair shop!!
That is likely a tire guy scuffing the inside of a tire for a repair patch. In a shop that does tires, that sound is constant.
@@blastem Agree.
Lol
I worked in a dealership for almost 15 yrs and I still appreciate your videos, this one is the classic case of ever since lol, I couldn't be something else it has to be the radiator lol... great work brother
Have a great day Ray.its 23 and blowing/ snowing up in the ND/MN
Hey I’m an Infiniti tech. That’s a common failure on the 3.5 and 3.7.
If it’s broken or about to be broken, disconnect the evap line that’s right beside the heater hoses and take it out. Gives you more room. Then take the clamps on the heater hoses and push them behind the heater connector. Take pliers and break the connector in half. Then take both hoses, point them downwards, and use the pliers to crush the connector inside the hose, the pieces will fall out like confetti. Make sure all the plastic is out, then I use silicone lube in the new connector and push it into the hose. It takes me like 10-15 minutes doing it this way. Top off the coolant and don’t worry about bleeding it, I’ve never had a problem
Nice to see someone not jump to blaming the "other" guy. Always enjoy your work!
You're videos are great! Knowledge and entertainment. Can't beat that. My uncle's name is Ray and he was a do it all guy. Master mechanic, body work, paint, basically everything. He's not with us anymore, but he got me into mechanic work. I always liked working on cars, especially my own. A neck & back injury basically ended that. I can only do so much before I'm in too much pain. But knowledge is always helpful. Makes you realize how many shops try to sell you stuff you don't need. Keep up the great videos!
I had an uncle named Ray as well and he was a do it all car guy too, although he only did Classic and antique cars and he is no longer with us as well. Like you, I used to love working on cars but back and neck injuries (15 out of the 23 discs are bad) stopped me from being able to work on cars or much of anything anymore.
I have that funnel. It came with a bunch of extensions and adapters. I definitely recommend them, very nice to have in the shop
Super helpful comments, definitely worth reading. Looking forward to part 2!
When your coolant system keeps blowing out the weakest link, thats classic compression gas in cooling system. Do a chem/block test on it to confirm. No fault of the previous shop. 😉
I thought the same thing
With the bubbles and the history of failure, testing for hydrocarbons in the system is a good idea
I bet Ray is gonna' do those tests in the sequel. Cuz' I've seen him do them in other vids. Sorry, I should have said "spoiler alert". Still, the suspense is killing me. 😜
I learned that with my 6.4l. Ended up constantly blowing coolant out of radiator cap
@@timdaniels2100 Right? I was thinking the same thing. This engine probably has a blown head gasket(s). Hopefully the heads aren't warped; those can be a real head ache! LoL.
Got to luv plastic parts in the cooling system. Hot and cold cycling and plastic just don't last as long as hoped.
tools needed:
floor mats
needle nose pliers
lay floor mats across engine, lay body on floor mats, use needle nose pliers to remove crappy plastic connector.
great job as usual, ray
Wheels maketh the man,thanks Ray for another well balanced vid ,on my daily I changed all my plastic joiners to brass some time back after the plastics failed.
Use a little liquid soap when installing barbs, hoses etc to lube them for installation. Externals can be washed with a squirt bottle, internals by the coolant, makes life a little easier.
I hate bleeding cooling systems. Last time the thermostat wasn't opening and temps were rising worryingly, yet the fan wasn't coming on because the thermoswitch was after the thermostat. Shutting it off and letting it heat soak for a while did the trick. Also my DIY no-spill funnel (a cut-off plastic bottle fitted into an old radiator cap) was a complete failure.
I bought the same funnel kit a few months ago. Haven't used it much yet, but has come in handy in the times I have.
I use a piece of 4 inch foam pad when I’m leaning over the engine sure saved my chest an knees, great find on the broken heater hose
Drinking my favorite hot beverage in the morning and watching your videos is a morning routine now for me.
same 👍
Yes, but glad my coffee was finished when he suddenly announced "Zebra Cakes" out of nowhere.
It's also my routine. When I wake up I wonder what Ray will be working on today.
I bought those hose clamp pliers last year lol. Thanks Ray!
yeh lol i remmber the video where ray was like "dont use those damn screw type clamps" and im like but wtf if u cant change a cooling hose onthe side of the road why do they use those damn squeeze clamps! those things are always a PITA! I knew no pliers would make them easier! its like a precision strength challenge at the worst time!
I believe you are right with the cylinder head gasket leak, i owned a BMW with a gasket leak and to get the air out of the water was very difficult.
Glad I'm not the only one who talks to difficult parts when removing or refitting to make them understand what I want. Keeps me company on a big job.
Its never easy, have a great day.
From your friendly engineer. Previous comment "m ph" is correct. Before you were born I was chasing coolant pressure boundary issues after "fixing radiator leaks" something you could do to some effect 40 yrs ago. But components in a pressurized system wear together, with different lifetimes associated with each item. Heater cores, clamps, connectors like this one, hoses, etc make up the boundary, so that once you replace one component up to specifications, the pressure works on the next weakest component until you wind up with several replaced components before the system is sound. Running an engine for an extended time after repair may be the best way to deal with it. (I should wait to see the whole video before commenting! - it is more than an aging pressure boundary problem)
With all the plastic parts once the engine overheated it severely affected all the plastic parts and rubber hoses. 😜
Oh YES dude, my coworkers both just got those snappy pliers and I love using them
I bought those adjustable needle nose last week on the truck, I am in love with them
When it comes to broken plastic connectors like those, I'm always afraid I'll wind up with a little piece left behind somewhere in the hose, and that piece will get lodged somewhere it'll restrict coolant flow, or causing some other issue that'll be a real fun time to diagnose.
Me, too. Ray wasn't bothered at all about it, so I figure this car will soon return for a new water pump or thermostat.
if im not mistaken the bleeder port enters the heater core so wouldnt be to much of an issue, cooling the engine anyways
I was thinking the same thing when he was squeezing the hose to crumple the stuck parts. Where do those pieces go that fall into the hose and didn't come out?.
@@michaelmclemore A clogged heater core is one of the worst jobs you can face on almost any vehicle. Range Rovers were known for having the plastic fittings break into pieces over time and cause one side of the heater core to clog so that you lose heating on one side on the interior. It happened to ours, and we traded the car instead of having to deal with that mess.
Rainy is a good mechanic, but he's often sloppy and uneducated on some items. He should have cut the hose off instead of contaminating the cooling/heater system. Very bad.
That's how I feel about hypodermic needles and veins. Hence my phobia
Nice job on getting both of your hands in there *and* a great view for the camera. Love your videos and detail of effort you record and narrate throughout. Well done!
Classic Ray... I had some explaining to do!!!... when someone walks in the room right around 14:45 and they can't see the video, only hearing the audio for a minute, the look on their face was priceless!!
Thank God you are Through in your diagnosis. You always ask Why something Failed. Thanks for your Videos I enjoyed them all and learned a Lot even a Age 76.
Most people don't appreciate the amount of hard physical work a mechanic has to do along with their skill and training. Kudos to you.
how do you know this?
@@user-jt5vm3mi1w cos Darth Vader is his dad.
@@mongo4511 he remote squeeze throat
As a former Nissan tech, I've learned to always use a vacuum filler on Nissan's with the VQ35 engine. They're notoriously difficult to get all of the air out of. Guys that didn't have a vacuum filler would raise the front end by using just the front lift arms.
Yup
I love my new vacuum filler. so much easier - but not just easier better! You can then tell if you have a bad hose or break as you cannot get vacuum if a break.
Was telling myself I should get one for the last 3 years, just bought one last weekend but I haven't got to try it yet 🙃
This is like the Ford Duratecs where they have reversed cooling systems and if you get air into the block, prepare to spend hours purging air out of it. Ford says hold engine at 2500rpm for 3 mins after thermostat opens, rev it up to 4000rpm for 5 secs then return to 2500 rpm for another 3 mins. Didn't work out well and the engine overheated. Tried what FordTechMakuloco said like 5 times and it stopped overheating. But everytime start from a stop you hear water moving inside the engine. Did the procedure like 10 more times and after 2 weeks of driving, finally there seems to be no air in there anymore. So yes, I think there are quite a few engines that are much better off vacuum filled.
Absolutely spot-on. These are not 15-minute wham-bam-thank-you-ma'am cooling system refills. If no Air-Lift, factory manual says let it heat up, let it cool down and draw from the overflow tank, then repeat 2x more. And as others have posted, typically that union is a Tee with a bleeder, Nissan part # 92500-AR000. Think about it....otherwise there's no reason to put a union there.
You're a good man Ray. You're a mechanic who cares and that should go a long way with your customers. It's probably hard for you to notice at times but trust me they notice.
Man your comments about always having a window down ring true with me. So many cars randomly lock after a few mins. For me I always roll the window down or leave the door ajar when I'm out opening gates or hooking up a trailer. Makes it easy to reach in and shut off if something goes wrong and I really can't be bothered getting locked out of a running car. Happens to ya ONCE and never again.
I found with cooling systems, (and today's crappy plastics) you almost need to replace everything at once. I have a little Tiburon that went in for timing belt service, and they of course suggest water pump service. Okie dokie. About a month later, the top of my plastic radiator starts cracking.... so replace that. Obviously replace rad cap. But all you wind up doing is finding the next part to fail. Get that pressure up in the cooling system and the next weakest part is gonna pop. I next had to do the throttle-body heater hoses and then a gasket on the block transfer manifold. ( I did the O-rings that connect the water pump to the transfer manifold at the same time because plot! ) Thankfully now my little car is holding it's pee.... but for a few months there it was all about patching leaks.
I love those no spill rad funnels. One of my favorite things I’ve ever bought. It’s almost 100 percent necessary for cars like Subarus that have lower thermostats and are prone to trapped air.
Same with the Dodge 4.7L V8. The thermostat is the bottom and controls flow from lower hose just inside the block, not easy to replace but extremely necessary as these engines do not like to be hot. I drive a 2001 Durango 4.7 and had a remanufactured engine installed in April due to a repeated overheating issue prior to my owning it that led to a warped head and blown head gasket. Yep it never quits bubbling, just like mine did. ☁️ Exhaust clouds?
Oh, kneeling on top of the radiator. Damn that brings back bad memories! Good video Ray!
12:34 if you look real close you can see the moment when the clamp slips into the shadow real next to the 10 mm socket
It needed the "You Died" Dark Souls layer on it lol.
Well this is a little mysterious so far . Car went in for a Cooling related problem and got a Radiator . Immediate Overheat again .
Now Ray has it . I suspect the previous shop was too quick to sign off on the Job . They too , should have noticed the Purging problem .
Some Engines can be difficult to " Burp " and there are sometimes bleeder valves fitted to assist that . I suspect a Warped Head .
i suspect who ever designs new cars has a very warped head.. new car every 2 yrs,,yeehh,, lets be green.. ai still got a 62 f100 4x4.. no lithium/cobolt child murderes here..
I love this guys lingo.
I did this exact job on my Infiniti last month. Bought an aftermarket Aluminum barb. They all break in exactly the same spot and I wound up crushing the old one as well.
Quality plastic fitting. Deteriorates over time. Great Idea Infinity. But yes I would have used a brass fitting.
I have a connector for hose to use flushing coolant system on 76 Vega that still doesn’t leak. Guess in the 80s we had better plastic.
Also the oem clamps have already left a very solid impression on the rubber already, it would be best to reuse them and put them in the exact same position, using a standard wormdrive clamp can work but because of the impressions in the rubber it might not seal it flat, obv worked for you now but idk :/
Ray, just had the same style barb break in the same way in my F150 about a year ago. It's much easier to get the pieces out by putting a pair of channel locks on the outside of hose at the inside end of the barb. Give a slight squeeze and wiggle left to right. It'll move like an eighth an inch and you slide up the hose and do it again. Once I figured that out, it took me about a minute to get out all out in one piece.
What I have found that almost always worked for me is to let the car sit overnight. Then, when it is totally cold in the AM, start the car and feel for pressure in the upper hose. If there is pressure on a cold start-up it is a head gasket. A good head gasket won't have pressure in the hose until it starts to warm up.
Two things I thought of. Number one, make sure the interior heater matrix is set to hot (if possible, before the system is evacuated. Obviously not possible in this case. But it needs it anyway), as this will leave an air lock in the system which takes ages to "bleed" out, then stop. Just like,e your engine did just, when it took the coolant into the matrix. Number two, are the fans running on the back of the radiator, which would cause overheating when no air is passing through the radiator.
I'm also guessing a fan here.
1. can't hear it
2. almost no temperature difference between radiator hoses
Indeed. Perhaps the fans had not been plugged in after the radiator replacement, or were already inoperative. That could lead to abnormally high pressure and the failure of that component. We don't even know whether that was an OEM component.
Note that the driver had just left the shop from the radiator replacement. I doubt that this was a coincidence, but the entire chain of cause and effect remains unclear. Who pays? We can only hope there is no engine damage.
From my limited experience and younger, foolish DIY days of firing parts canons.. there was an instance of an overheating problem I had with an old Mazda of mine. New thermostat - didn't work. New radiator - didn't work. New fan - didn't work. Then I noticed after driving, it would gargle and grumble from the radiator and purge lots of gasses into the overflow - head gasket. We then parted ways lol
Just a touch of constructive criticism...
When you take the hood prop and stick it in a hole, you're essentially turning said rod into a PDR tool and can make a high spot in the hood, or worse cracking the paint if something presses down on the hood, or the bottom gets shifted or dropped. Just trying to prevent a headache for you in the future.
Shocking that he doesn't have those tools for locking the struts in place. Very amateur to use sticks when there are professional tools that won't restrict access or cause damage. This guy seems so good, but disappoints me way too often. At least he doesn't try to hide his mistakes.
@@JetFire9 you can be complacent with those as well. You forget those and try to close the hood or hatch and you can cause a buckle to occur. I have been in the Automotive trade all my life, and if I could not work on my own vehicle, I wouldn't have any issues letting him work on mine. Other than I am a stickler for keeping things as OEM as possible, but he is not in charge of that area. I think your criticism may be a touch unwarranted. He is very good at his trade and there are not many techs out there that will show the fails along with the success. I just want him to get a replacement tip for the hood prop and not shove it into holes in the hood bracing, for his own sake and liability.
@@assertivepaintlessdentrepa2634 Nah bro. Some cars even come from the factory with locking struts that you need to lift before bringing down. So your theory is false. He needs to buy the right tool for the job. Rainy isn’t terrible, but what he did with that plastic pipe was ridiculous and could cause a $2000 repair of a new heater core. I guess you’re ok with that? Lol. Also, don’t let him anywhere near your AC system. He is clueless around them. He is better than most, but I would rate him a B-
Got to love the engineers that design this stuff without checking with the mechanics!
If I’m not mistaken, auto engineers have it out for mechanics. Both professions have been at war with each other for as long as I could remember. …and yes, As a DIYer, I despise auto engineers for their crappy predatory practices!!!
I always replace the factory squeeze type hose clamps with screw on types. Makes life so much easier.
Hmm should close off hose with a vice grip to keep plastic from falling down the hose into the cooling system.Its a murph’s law.
That's supposed to be a bleeder valve. This is a terrible video
Yep, that's what I was thinking.
Lots of issues with this car from windows to hood prop rod, also looked like Vehicle Stability Assist light lit on dash. Always fun working where your hands don’t fit! Customer should pay for it in my opinion. As for heating issue, unless this just happened, so think the last shop must not have purged the system well enough to see that it is a head gasket issue if indeed it is. Looking forward to part II Ray.
Nissan makes absolute garbage automobiles. The chrysler of Japan.
The way I used to get the pices out was to clamp a few inches back on the pipe then use big pliers to crush the broke pipe inside and tip it out, works most times
Love your videos!!! The way you described what needed to be done to get the part into the hoses. Almost spit water across table. Had this female laughing hard. Keep up the great work!! 👍
You spent more time on the OEM Hose clamps than I would have. The new clamps would have been my go-to from the get go. The worm drive clamps are a life saver 75% of the time.
Baling wire and rustoleum. Same problem and same solution since hoses were leather.
Hi Ray, The cooling system going into the heater is above the radiator and will have air in it. The plastic part that broke is not the correct part for that location. There should be an air/bleed screw between the hoses. When filling the rad with coolant the funnel that you use would be ideal as it need to be filled high enough to be above the bleed screw. If not, there will be air pockets in the heater system.
Some models don’t have one.
That makes sense that was the issue I had with my heater blowing cool air. But like said Ray it might have blown the head gasket by now. Just have to wait until the next installment. Can't wait.
Isn't the radiator cap and the overflow tank meant to fix that air issue? Pressure builds and pushes air into the overflow tank and then when it cools it sucks coolant back in. I've only got old cars though, no clue if it's different on new cars.
Had a very similar situation once I used 0ring pliers to break the bond between the hose and plastic
Ray!!!!
Can’t tell you how much your show has helped me!!
I don’t even work on cars. Managed to replace coils and plugs and , wait for it… install a new gasket on the intake manifold ( think that’s what it was). It was fricken plastic
That was a week ago no issues bro- fessor!!
Which went bad first? The radiator or the head gasket. Wild guess is the radiator had a leak and the car was over heated which warped the heads. Those aluminum heads will warp as soon as they loose cooling and it don't take much coolant loss for this to happen.
At this point it really doesn't matter other than curiosity.
I suspect the same. This is probably at least the 2nd time that engine has been overheated.
That model 3.5 Litre engine series were almost bomb proof. I would be surprised if it had a Head Gasket failure from normal operation and it has not been confirmed there is a head gasket failure yet, we will have to see what shows up in part 2. One thing I did not hear during the run time was the Radiator fan running. Part 2 should be good and informative.
Ray, put in my 2 cents after 45 yrs. I have used the funnel fill system you are using for years. Very small thermostat in that engine, will erupt coolant for a while. Put out side & cool off. Engine will take what it needs during cooldown. Fill & mark overflow bottle. With electric fans , it won’t take long to overheat , if it is going to. Remember , boiling point is 212 & for every lb. pressure on cap raises 3 degrees.your @ 213 no cap. Not surprised old plastic union split, @ hottest part of enclosed engine compartment. Great video again.
I'm not sure of your boiling points, but as I only have 40+ years of working on cars, mostly race engines...I will let that go your way. I will say that a 50%-50% mix of antifreeze and water is 223°F and a full on 100% Evans waterless coolants have a boiling point of over 375°F...I don't worry on my engine builds on the pressure difference as you specified so can't comment. I will dial in specific engine temps with applications being used with the thermostat.
Watsup my friend? Great video I used to be a big Datsun Nissan infiniti fan
In the 70s, 80s the rear wheel drive Datsun was unstoppable. I had a 71 510 wagon that I beat on thru my teenage years and if the steering box hadn't rusted off I'd still be driving it! I believe it had a 1.6 or 1.8 OHC with a 4 speed stick. Nothing power, well power brakes but not steering! Had like 165/70/13 tires really Cheap to replace, like $120@SET...I remember $7 would fill the fuel tank and it got mpg in the 40s...I remember once the wiring harness fell into the fan and it wrapped around the fan pulling the harness thru the firewall and out of the dash! No lie! We just straightened it out and plugged everything back in and in a few hours it was good as new! It looked like someone removed it, except the wrapped up part!
Now these cars are untouchable. If one can be found they want huge dollars cause guys want them to drift with! I bought several of those used of course 150 to 350 if it was really nice....miss those days!
Forgot the point...late 90s maxima and infiniti i30s were the last decent cars Nissan made they went downhill quick...rusty floorboards! Cmon..thought that was over years ago..
I hate loosing a car to rust but I couldn't even Jack mine up at the end! Still ran fantastic, the 3 liter in 1998 was rated one of the top 10 motors made.
Sprinkler riser removal tool is what came to mind when I saw the broken of piece.
tips, you can use Jaw Locking Pliers on the hose to prevent broken parts to enter further down the hose, and blow it clean afterwards
had same issue with toyota camry when replaced radiator, let significant amount of air in engine which took a while to exhaust from system including cycles where the engine got hot then cooled until the air expelled, checked the plugs for evidence of coolant later and found no evidence the gasket was damaged, no evidence in oil, trans fluid etc
Put the exhaust emission analyser probe in the funnel to sniff out any carbon monoxide if you suspect the head gasket. Nice videos Ray love watching.
I saw this from another mechanic. He used the expansion bottle. covered the lid for a few seconds then quickly placed the gas analyser in the port without touching the fluid. It instantly ramped up the count of hydrocarbons. The gas analyser is extremely sensitive so can pickup the smallest of head gasket leaks from the combustion side.
@@imprezaaudi That's the correct way to do it. The only time it doesn't work is when the leak is fresh and hasn't had enough time to contaminate the system.
When In was teching we used to do this all the time using the MOT exhaust sniffer. It was conclusive 100% of the time. Hot / cold made no difference, If the h/gasket came under suspicion, that was the first port of call. Saved so much diagnostic time. So many giggaties in this one but I had to say them for myself.
Not sure if the analyzers are that common in all Florida shops since there is no annual (luckily) emissions control? I imagine some have it but not all
@@AT-wl9yq The correct way is with a chemical tester on the radiator fillup.
You trust your electronics all you want but chemicals never lie.
Ray. You should be a dang surgeon! Nice work! BRAVO !
Lol, it looks plenty tight. In 1988 I pulled wrenches at Barrett's Automotive and A1A Wrecker Service in Daytona Beach, Florida.
For those PITA plastic bits that get stuck in the hose, they are always in an tough spot. I am wondering if the proper size left handed drill bit would spin it out.
The worm gear clamps are not supposed be used on heating because when hot and cold the other ones can ajust to the temperature change because they are springy and the worm gear clamps dont and can break your plastic barb.
Whoa. Good point!
I had to replace a 3 way connector on a 2002 Chevy Venture. It was right next to the firewall. Had to tilt the engine forward to get to it. It was really brittle too. Took me hours to remove and replace.
I've had a car overheat like that before and always turn the heater on full blast after repairs. A mechanic told me to add some alum a seal and a tube of the radiator sealant that had aluminum shavings that are like a powder on cars that have aluminum heads or aluminum block. Sure enough it worked and no more leaks or overheating after a year.
have you considered a yoga mat or foam floor mat tiles to put across engine bays whenever you have to lay on them to prevent yourself from being impaled by the pokey things
Ford Tech Maculoco uses old seat material to lay on. The leather cover part of the seat from an old truck.
I'd advise investing in a topside creeper.
That's what I was thinking. My knee pads and foam mats are among my favourite tools!
@@Strasedon topside creepers are worth every penny!!
I've been using an old baseball catchers chest protector for over 50 years for laying across engine bays or kneeling down jobs and even as a head rest working on the floor without enough height for a creeper. Super good comfort and even support over uneven surfaces under the hood.
Hey Ray, go to a craft store and get some soft foam( line in a chair or sofa) so you can use it for a cushion for ur knees or chest.
I’ve got 2 of those. One I cut from a 4’x8’ sheet of foam it’s kinda hard and yesterday my neighbor gave me one said he got at the rod run but it reminds me of a bleacher seat that you can bring with. It’s nice and soft.
As a fellow technician, one of the things I've learned - if you have to lay over / on top of something, always carry a nice piece of flat open-cell foam to lie or sit on. Great video as always!
I have to admit that as a former professional kitchen equipment mechanic, I thoroughly enjoyed that part where you dug out the plastic tube. Had to do something like this several times (big dishwashers etc) and it always is an absolute soul-crushing PITA :-D I don't know how you managed to do that without extensive cursing... Love your vids!
To each their own indeed, Ray. I love those stupid hubcaps. I have no car to put them on, but man, do I want some of those. I can't explain it. It just speaks to me for some dumb reason.
I think I might be broken...
If you liked those wheels, there is definately something wrong with you!!!
A thought: squeeze the hose closed behind the broken piece with a long nose vise grip. Then break the plastic with pliers and pull or shake out the pieces. Clear out the hose before removing the vise grips Anything that works is the right way, though. Thanks.
I was thinking the same thing. Im all for destruction but if you break off plastic inside of a tube, there is no way of knowing if you just sent a piece of plastic down into the water pump to mess up the impeller.
Same... Use a hose clamp pliers up stream, crush the brittle plastic, remove pieces
That’s how we do it back at Infiniti actually. Take us like 10 minutes to fix it that way
just crush them and shake them out, if you're suspicious plastic is still in the system just fill with water to flush out. It should be the only opening in the system and flush out all plastic.
genius
Hard ball busting work. You deserve a raise. Exceptional self control while dealing with that crumbling plastic fitting while crushing your chest. Frustrating.
I would have thrown so many profanities at that fitting.
Great work and great video. Thanks for showing us how it's done.
Had the same thing happen on my Dodge Caravan on a rainy day near Halifax Nova Scotia Canada. I heard it blow, and you should have seen the huge white cloud behind me! Luckily I was near an exit. A perfect stranger drove us into town. Picked up a piece of 1/2 inch copper tube, 2 clamps, and a bottle of coolant. We were down for just 2 hours, and back on our way.
TFSFirerman, I am the type of person that stops for persons at the side of the road and helps with what I can. I'm often in the mountains where there is no cell service and I always have all of my tools with me and a lot of odds and ends as well (I drive a 4X4 truck) I'm an old school shade tree mechanic at 66yrs young. Good luck on your travels.
Ray - two thoughts.
1. The sound of the lift going up in the background as you were installing the manual prop rod. The hood went up as the sound of the background lift went up.
2. Surprised you waited to long to swap out the clamps.
use the OE clamps if possible. They expand a little with the temperature and don't dig into the hose, unlike worm clamps which don't expand and dig into the hose.
The squeeze clamps do fatigue.
8:25 I bought those same snap on pliers about a month ago and they are awesome! Hope you like them as much as I do.
I have a pair of pliers that makes removing pieces of broken pipe fittings much easier. They were sold as Reverse Pliers and they have hooks pointing outward
I always check with pressure tester if there is air in the system you gauge won't move immediately but if it'd full it will rapidly build with the first pump. Also testing when hot and you can see if pressure keeps building
When I have one like the I’ll take and crush inside the hose an let the pieces fall out. Normally when they break they are extremely brittle and don’t take much to crush it
Exactly what I was telling Ray to do 🙂
I once had a cap problem too, my 710 cap was upside down.
I kind of like those spring hose clamps.they expand a little bit with heat and pressure. And it makes the hose last longer I think
Had a similar failure on my 06 town and country. I was in a hurry to get somewhere fortunately I was right by a Home Depot bought a screwdriver, hose mending kit vise grips and a case of water. 15 minutes later back going,
I think that funnel is a great bit of kit. you can fill it way above the top of the motor possibly bleeding out all the air easier than usual.
FYI in the UK, the worm drive clips are known as "Jubilee" clips, from the company, Jubillee that makes them. The longest manufacturer of hose clips
I've heard you Brits call them Jubilee clamps before and didn't know why. Now I know. Learn something new every day. Cheers
Has the cooling fans kicked in? Possible temps sensor for the cooling fans is shot
if you ever have trouble putting a hose over a fitting ,, instead of a grease base spray, which will always stay slippery use brakleen spray it into hose and quickly slide pipe on.. it has always worked for me .. i am / was a heavy diesel mechanic until i crushed my foot last august
As a mechanic myself, I've taught myself to remove hoses and make sure there's flow on both ends!