Had a main seal changed on my 94’ Ranger 4X4 and was having problems with the shifting. Could shift manually but not shifting automatically into second gear. Discovered that the vacuum hose to the modulator had come off. Hard to reach one handed but after reattaching runs great.
I bought a 93 ranger 4wd from a guy who said it "needed a trans seal", he was told 1000$ minimum at several different shops, he sold the me truck (under 100,000 miles) for 300$ since it needs all the work, i bought it, crawled underneath it and to my surprise no trans fluid underneath. Pulled the brake booster vaccum and out came pouring that missing fluid lol if he only learned a little about how things work he would still be driving his ranger.
I've had stainless-to-stainless bolts and nuts seize up like you experienced. When putting them together add a bit of moly anti-seize compound to the bolt and you will still be able to get them apart years later.
Thank you. I was doing this change out on a table and found the rod on the table with no idea where it came fro but had a suspicion that's what happened. Thanks again
For the replacement modulator did you go with a Motorcraft part or a generic brand? I try to go Motorcraft as much as possible, but the vacuum modulator is 4x more expensive than the generic brand.
That modulator has to due with your over drive kicking in also/ I got same truck 88 4x4. Good job way to get down under and get it done. Good instruction video.
I have 1987 Bronco 2 and when i switch from Park to Drive it takes a few seconds to engage, would this fix the problem... I already changed the transmission fluid, filter and solenoid.
I’d check and see if it is leaking, there shouldn’t be any fluid in the vacuum line, in my case it was sucking it all the way up into the motor! I don’t think this will have anything to do with going from park to drive though.
Good video! I have a question though. I have a 91 Ford Ranger, and it has shifting problems. (I shift manually 1 to 2, then drive.) When I noticed the modulator the nipple was actually plugged off. And in the engine I have a missing hose in the back where air gets sucked into the engine. So what I did was I got a new hose, so I removed the plug and attached the new hose onto the modulator, then I fished it to the missing nipple on the engine where air gets sucked in. This did fix the automatic shifting, but now my exhaust is blowing white when I step on the gas. Is this tranny fluid being pulled into the engine and being burned? I did notice the one end of the hose a bit wet with tranny fluid. I am thinking that I have a bad modulator, what do you think RDAllen? Thanks for replying if you do! :)
When you started your truck. Did you sometimes get a plume of smoke? I have a Ford Granada Scorpio with auto box same as yours. Also get some vibration as well.
My understanding is the module controls how the transmission shifts based on engine vacuum, so not sure on the overdrive, there is also a kick down if you put the gas pedal down far enough.
Good Job J.D. Excellent video. I think mine might be easier to change, but not sure. I have an old 1991 Mazda pickup, and if remember right the Valve is on the Drivers side of transmission, think I changed it a few years ago, mines been leaking and very hard starting in the morning as it loads up, still shifts but need to get it changed. Thanks again for an excellent video.
how did u hold back up on the top bolt on the front side of the cats? I used an extension to break the nut but now the whole thing is spinning, and I can't find access to the head of the bolt.
Oh that is a fun to get! The best way I found is to reach in from the front with a long extension. The first time though I had to cut them off and basically did it the same way with a small die grinder cutting wheel.
Quick question. When you changed the Vacuum Modulator, I saw that not many trans fluid came out and when I changed it on mine a whole lot of transmission fluid came out which I thought was odd. Is that normal? I added more trans fluid to see if it happened again and it does. It ALL comes out through the hole where the vacuum modulator is. After changing it, the ranger shifts at high RPMs around 4-4500. The rod pin is in there and the modulator is an adjustable kind and after trying numerous time to adjust it, it still has the same late shifting problem.
i did the tuning to the automatic transmission because it was neutralizing, I checked the level after two days and checked the low level, I added 2 liters more, today I did the oil change to the engine and the mechanic told me that the engine was like 8 Liters when you should carry only 5.
Seems unlikely to me that it would be able to suck that much through the modulator, also if it is sucked through the modulator it should get burned up for the most part as it is going into the intake.
The only way I know of would be the modulator, if you take the vacuum line off were it connects into the modulator and there is transmission fluid then you know your modulator is bad. The vacuum line should be clean and dry! You can also take it off where it connect up into the intake manifold.
Good video Randy. Mine is a 4wd Bronco II and the converter is easier to remove if you remove the rear cross member and the trans support member. I usually just remove three of the mounting bolts and swing them on one loosened bolt to the other side. It's really tight under the Bronco II and the muffler is in the way of slipping the cats out. Stainless steel bolts and nuts will do a thing called galling when used it hot locations. That's probably what caused that one bolt to break. I use high grade bolts and nuts and apply Never Seize to them on any exhaust system. All you have to do to remove them is remember to lube the threads that aren't inside the nut. Old Harley guy trick; take a short length (about 2") 12 gauge copper wire and wrap it around the bolt out in front of the nut (non-salt area) and twist it tight. It'll will pull heat out of the bolt and keep it from setting up so hard.
Interesting, haven't heard of the copper trick before, I was using hardened bolts before, only took a year and they were so rusty I couldn't get them off any more.
Was curious because I recently bought a 95 Ranger that has a 2 second hesitation when putting the truck in drive, no other transmission issues, I can't find any answers online to this problem
+william lackey Interesting, sounds kinda of what was happening to me, my transmission was hesitating anywhere from a few to 45 seconds when shifting into drive when first starting out cold. Changing the modulator seems to have fixed the problem for me.
RdAllen I changed the fuel filter and cleaned out manifold, when I climb a hill it bucks like iam lugging it in fifth gear then it would shift down seeing as the 2002 is electronic it could fail?
+Matthew Liggitt I'm not sure about the newer trucks and their electronics, but at least on my truck there is a kick down feature so if you put the gas pedal down so far it will kick the transmission down a gear.
Riddle me this. Seens like you got off pretty easy. Whats the rememdy if your part was all rusted to shit and refused to come out? It broke in half and only the straight piece remains . Am i looking to get the vice grips on what remains and rock it back and forth or am i looking to pull it straight out
I mean this thing is ancient a 1990 and im changing it for probably the first time ever. That number of years with WI road salt it woukd stand to reason that it would fall apart after that many years.
Woof, I'm doing mine without removing the cat, and holy crap it's a PITA but that cat wasn't coming out without a blowtorch and I don't have access to one at home. Thank god I got skinny arms.
Let's wrap up another version of Car Simulator 15 (too bad Car Sim doesn't include trucks so I know this is fake :P) Great vid BTW. I am not up to speed on newer vehicles, but rebuilding older ones....I had a blast rebuilding a 350 two bolt main engine about 100 years ago. I did everything wrong and the engine ran until I sold it.
+Delekham That's not bad for doing everything wrong! LOL. I can find my around the mechanical stuff, but when you start getting into the electronic crap oh boy.....!Car Mechanic has trucks now by the way!
+william lackey Base on what I was told any sign of leaking fluid when you pull the vacuum line off the modulator indicates the modulator is bad; anyway, I pulled the vacuum line off and had fluid pouring out!
Man. That's really hard. IF you have a dual post lift, It should easier. Even you don't have it. And that's why the breaker bar is NEEDED!!! Well even you did it right. That could be excellent for me for automotive class and work in the field. Was the check engine light on because of the vacuum modulator?
+NJRAILFAN & RACEFAN88 No engine light, just noticed some irregularities in shifting plus it was "oily" by the all vacuum line connections. Pulled the vacuum line off the modulator and transmission fluid came pouring out!
+Blake Arthur Good way to wreck a motor! It does sound good though, I had the connection between the muffler and catalytic converter break a few years ago, wow was that loud!
ive got a 98 ford ranger with a 2.5 ,and it want take of in drive, i have to put it in low 2 to take of it just start that, the day before it drive fine no problem,when putting it in drive it just whines
Had a main seal changed on my 94’ Ranger 4X4 and was having problems with the shifting. Could shift manually but not shifting automatically into second gear. Discovered that the vacuum hose to the modulator had come off. Hard to reach one handed but after reattaching runs great.
I bought a 93 ranger 4wd from a guy who said it "needed a trans seal", he was told 1000$ minimum at several different shops, he sold the me truck (under 100,000 miles) for 300$ since it needs all the work, i bought it, crawled underneath it and to my surprise no trans fluid underneath. Pulled the brake booster vaccum and out came pouring that missing fluid lol if he only learned a little about how things work he would still be driving his ranger.
I've had stainless-to-stainless bolts and nuts seize up like you experienced. When putting them together add a bit of moly anti-seize compound to the bolt and you will still be able to get them apart years later.
Heat causes some of that apparently! I looked it up and that was the explanation. Like you said antiseize should help!
Thank you. I was doing this change out on a table and found the rod on the table with no idea where it came fro but had a suspicion that's what happened. Thanks again
Ah yes, watch for that little rod!
Your a brave man to do that on here!! Lol. Also great song in background. One of my favorites!!
Would this part not let the transmission go into first gear? I have all gears except 1st. It’s an automatic transmission, Thanks!
I don’t think so, my understanding it modulates shifting between gears.
does this module make the over drive kick in and out .telling the transmission that it need to get in fourth?
+Matthew Liggitt To my knowledge its more along the lines of controlling how hard/soft the transmission changes gear.
This is not the 3-4shift solenoid, that is in the valve body.
For the replacement modulator did you go with a Motorcraft part or a generic brand? I try to go Motorcraft as much as possible, but the vacuum modulator is 4x more expensive than the generic brand.
I forget which brand, it was either Napa or Motorcraft I think.
Thank you, this helped me diagnose and fix my own ranger shifting issue. Well made video. 👍🏻
what issue were you having
That modulator has to due with your over drive kicking in also/ I got same truck 88 4x4. Good job way to get down under and get it done. Good instruction video.
I have 1987 Bronco 2 and when i switch from Park to Drive it takes a few seconds to engage, would this fix the problem... I already changed the transmission fluid, filter and solenoid.
I’d check and see if it is leaking, there shouldn’t be any fluid in the vacuum line, in my case it was sucking it all the way up into the motor! I don’t think this will have anything to do with going from park to drive though.
Good video! I have a question though. I have a 91 Ford Ranger, and it has shifting problems. (I shift manually 1 to 2, then drive.) When I noticed the modulator the nipple was actually plugged off. And in the engine I have a missing hose in the back where air gets sucked into the engine. So what I did was I got a new hose, so I removed the plug and attached the new hose onto the modulator, then I fished it to the missing nipple on the engine where air gets sucked in. This did fix the automatic shifting, but now my exhaust is blowing white when I step on the gas. Is this tranny fluid being pulled into the engine and being burned? I did notice the one end of the hose a bit wet with tranny fluid. I am thinking that I have a bad modulator, what do you think RDAllen? Thanks for replying if you do! :)
I'm not an expert, but that could be the problem, especially if it just started when you added the hose.
that should be what it is
heat causes stainless to gauld( lock together). Always use carbon bolts and nuts coated with anti-seize and you won't have any more problems.
or just looking at them funny also causes it haha
When you started your truck. Did you sometimes get a plume of smoke? I have a Ford Granada Scorpio with auto box same as yours. Also get some vibration as well.
No, haven't had any issues with smoking.
How did you cut the bolts off
Is that where all the shaking comes from on the overdrive
My understanding is the module controls how the transmission shifts based on engine vacuum, so not sure on the overdrive, there is also a kick down if you put the gas pedal down far enough.
you mentioned a rod when you pulled it out? where does it come from and does it attach directly into the tranny or on the modulator?
Good Job J.D. Excellent video. I think mine might be easier to change, but not sure. I have an old 1991 Mazda pickup, and if remember right the Valve is on the Drivers side of transmission, think I changed it a few years ago, mines been leaking and very hard starting in the morning as it loads up, still shifts but need to get it changed. Thanks again for an excellent video.
Did you every figure out what those plastic pieces are from? Would it be part of the filter cracked and traveled to that area?
I wonder why a Ford Ranger video came up for a transmission modulator when I was asking for an F250 1997 heavy duty 460 engine
Hmmm slight difference there.....!
I have a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0 V6. Would I need to do the same process to replace Modulator vacuum
Different motor, different transmission, if it has one yes it should be similar
how did u hold back up on the top bolt on the front side of the cats? I used an extension to break the nut but now the whole thing is spinning, and I can't find access to the head of the bolt.
Oh that is a fun to get! The best way I found is to reach in from the front with a long extension. The first time though I had to cut them off and basically did it the same way with a small die grinder cutting wheel.
Quick question. When you changed the Vacuum Modulator, I saw that not many trans fluid came out and when I changed it on mine a whole lot of transmission fluid came out which I thought was odd. Is that normal? I added more trans fluid to see if it happened again and it does. It ALL comes out through the hole where the vacuum modulator is. After changing it, the ranger shifts at high RPMs around 4-4500. The rod pin is in there and the modulator is an adjustable kind and after trying numerous time to adjust it, it still has the same late shifting problem.
If it matters, it’s a 94 4.0 v6 ranger, 4x4.
It wasn’t shifting at an high RPM before changing?
No, it was not shifting at high rpm’s before.
@@ar3nasz i’m having this exact issue rn. What was the solution?
I've ordered the modulator?, I hope the changout works, will let you know
He never let us know
@@nicekeyboardalan6972 hahahahaha, damn i hate that!
I have a 01 ford sport trac it wont drive till rpm reach 3 then will shift and drive fine is your video my fi also
My husband’s 1989 ford ranger truck won’t change gears while driving since he replaced the modulator.
Odd... check the fluid level? Also I assume there was a reason for changing the modulator?
What was the symptom here and did it fix it?
Thanks , Mike
Mainly transmission fluid in the intake
Firstly - you are legendary. Thank you.
Second - did you have issue where you would shift pretty roughly into R or F after initial startup?
I did actually yes, I flushed the transmission and switched to Valvoline Max Live transmission fluid and haven't had a problem since!
Hi there, my transmission is he same as yours and it seems to upshifts at high rpms through the first 3 gears. Is that what happened to yours?
+Jon Clark No mainly not shifting properly when first starting.
yes
Seems to be passing oil from the transmission to the engine, and white smoke, could be by the transmission modulator ????
Correct.
i did the tuning to the automatic transmission because it was neutralizing, I checked the level after two days and checked the low level, I added 2 liters more, today I did the oil change to the engine and the mechanic told me that the engine was like 8 Liters when you should carry only 5.
Seems unlikely to me that it would be able to suck that much through the modulator, also if it is sucked through the modulator it should get burned up for the most part as it is going into the intake.
RDAllen Is there another way in which the oil passes from the transmission to the engine ???
The only way I know of would be the modulator, if you take the vacuum line off were it connects into the modulator and there is transmission fluid then you know your modulator is bad. The vacuum line should be clean and dry! You can also take it off where it connect up into the intake manifold.
Good video Randy. Mine is a 4wd Bronco II and the converter is easier to remove if you remove the rear cross member and the trans support member. I usually just remove three of the mounting bolts and swing them on one loosened bolt to the other side. It's really tight under the Bronco II and the muffler is in the way of slipping the cats out.
Stainless steel bolts and nuts will do a thing called galling when used it hot locations. That's probably what caused that one bolt to break. I use high grade bolts and nuts and apply Never Seize to them on any exhaust system. All you have to do to remove them is remember to lube the threads that aren't inside the nut.
Old Harley guy trick; take a short length (about 2") 12 gauge copper wire and wrap it around the bolt out in front of the nut (non-salt area) and twist it tight. It'll will pull heat out of the bolt and keep it from setting up so hard.
Interesting, haven't heard of the copper trick before, I was using hardened bolts before, only took a year and they were so rusty I couldn't get them off any more.
I'm losing transmission fluid at a pouring rate any explanation why buddy?? Car 93 stang 2.3
At a pouring rate? Out of where?
did you ever figure it out.
You should have dun a before and after shot of your dash instrument panel so that we see the improvement.
What were your symptoms if a bad one?
I’m gonna change out the hoses today
You lose atf and you gain engine oil.
White smoke out the exhaust.
How much was your catalytic converter and where did you buy it?
$200 if I recall, all stainless, and I got it from Ebay.
where do u get the modulator at AutoZone said they didn't carry it
Try Ebay, that is were I go for most of my part.
you can buy it from Rockauto.com, they have motorcraft and aftermaket parts.
Thanks for making this video and sharing, very well made, good to know about the catalytic converter removal, thinking of replacing mine. God bless.
thanks!
So the rod stays in the trans or stays out?
In
How's the transmission act when this is bad
Wasn’t going into gear properly
Was curious because I recently bought a 95 Ranger that has a 2 second hesitation when putting the truck in drive, no other transmission issues, I can't find any answers online to this problem
+william lackey Interesting, sounds kinda of what was happening to me, my transmission was hesitating anywhere from a few to 45 seconds when shifting into drive when first starting out cold. Changing the modulator seems to have fixed the problem for me.
RdAllen
I changed the fuel filter and cleaned out manifold, when I climb a hill it bucks like iam lugging it in fifth gear then it would shift down seeing as the 2002 is electronic it could fail?
+Matthew Liggitt I'm not sure about the newer trucks and their electronics, but at least on my truck there is a kick down feature so if you put the gas pedal down so far it will kick the transmission down a gear.
hello mine is sized in any thoughts?
The vacuum modulator? Try twisting slight maybe working it up an down? Also lots of penetrating oil!
Tried everything heat, oil, pry I'm going to try a puller next thanks for the response
Weird, shouldn't really be anything that holds it in there that hard.
There is only the retaining clip correct? No other bolt I'm not seeing? It hasn't moved a mm
There is a bolt in the retaining clip but that is it.
Riddle me this. Seens like you got off pretty easy. Whats the rememdy if your part was all rusted to shit and refused to come out? It broke in half and only the straight piece remains . Am i looking to get the vice grips on what remains and rock it back and forth or am i looking to pull it straight out
I mean this thing is ancient a 1990 and im changing it for probably the first time ever. That number of years with WI road salt it woukd stand to reason that it would fall apart after that many years.
Woof, I'm doing mine without removing the cat, and holy crap it's a PITA but that cat wasn't coming out without a blowtorch and I don't have access to one at home. Thank god I got skinny arms.
Have fun with that! Those exhaust bolts are the worst!
Let's wrap up another version of Car Simulator 15 (too bad Car Sim doesn't include trucks so I know this is fake :P) Great vid BTW. I am not up to speed on newer vehicles, but rebuilding older ones....I had a blast rebuilding a 350 two bolt main engine about 100 years ago. I did everything wrong and the engine ran until I sold it.
+Delekham That's not bad for doing everything wrong! LOL. I can find my around the mechanical stuff, but when you start getting into the electronic crap oh boy.....!Car Mechanic has trucks now by the way!
why did you change the modulator valve?
+william lackey Base on what I was told any sign of leaking fluid when you pull the vacuum line off the modulator indicates the modulator is bad; anyway, I pulled the vacuum line off and had fluid pouring out!
If you do from the inside is more fast
Qué falla presenta el vaco
Hard shifts from my understanding.
Man. That's really hard. IF you have a dual post lift, It should easier. Even you don't have it. And that's why the breaker bar is NEEDED!!! Well even you did it right. That could be excellent for me for automotive class and work in the field. Was the check engine light on because of the vacuum modulator?
+NJRAILFAN & RACEFAN88 No engine light, just noticed some irregularities in shifting plus it was "oily" by the all vacuum line connections. Pulled the vacuum line off the modulator and transmission fluid came pouring out!
Should of left the cat off and exhaust pipes gain that extra gas mileage and hp, plus a LOUD rumble (;
+Blake Arthur Good way to wreck a motor! It does sound good though, I had the connection between the muffler and catalytic converter break a few years ago, wow was that loud!
i recently just put a $800 performance exhaust on mine thats suppose to sound good too but i think it sounded better when there was none!
+Blake Arthur Always sounds better with none! I've actually replace all my exhaust with stainless exhaust components.
ive got a 98 ford ranger with a 2.5 ,and it want take of in drive, i have to put it in low 2 to take of it just start that, the day before it drive fine no problem,when putting it in drive it just whines
The shield must face up not down.
Installed wrong.
Cant see a damn thing
What no heat shield ? Wire holding up your exhaust 🤣
Heck yea! Lol 😂
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