This is gonna cause more damage down the road. Those holes are not meant to be clogged with tooth picks. You have a vacuum issue….pull the carbs and fix it right. I did mine a few months back cause it was doing the same thing. You have about 17 vacuum hoses, check everyone. There is one right under the left carb with a 90 degree turn that is notorious for causing this issue. If it’s not that one, there are more to check. They dry out and get brittle over time. You may need to sync your carbs as this can cause this problem also. Not sure of your mileage but if it’s reached 100k, I would definitely change the timing belts. It’s very good insurance and easy to DIY. That’s probably nothing to do with your surge but just thought I would offer some good advice. Whatever you do don’t leave those toothpicks in those holes…that’s a little more good advice. Just hate to see you end up having to fix more than you need to. Take care of the vacuum leaks and your problem will go away…oh yeah I almost forgot…while you have the carbs off, clean then really good or rebuild. I would rebuild myself but a good cleaning will do wonders. Take out all jets and blast them out really good…good luck!
Thanks. Yes, I know I have to break her down to get to the vacuum hoses, as they are the problem. But hopefully, my fix is temporary and it is working. Thanks, again.
UPDATE! I just changed my oil, using Rotella T6 15W-40, and my final drive gear oil. I never changed the final drive gear oil before and it is easy peasy, as long as you have a 17 mm wrench. I used Valvoline Full Synthetic 75W-90 gear oil, BTW. I think it was about 5-6 years ago when that was changed out. I know… I am such a loser. So today, I went out for a nice long ride. About 140 miles or so. I checked my MPG and I averaged 39.03. I am about 290 lbs., and I was on a four lane road doing 65-70 for a bit, so I am pretty happy about the MPG. Something of note: before I changed the oil, I put about 4 ounces of Seafoam in her and rode her for about 75 miles. I then added 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil and did about 30 miles. When I changed the oil, some “chunks” came out! So I guess it was a good thing running the Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil through her! Something interesting: I never used Shell gasoline before in the Wing but today, the Sunoco station that I sometimes go to is now a Shell station. So I said “what the heck!” I filled her up with regular gas. I stopped to drink some water as it was pretty hot in this Florida sun, and when I started her up, I noticed she was running about 300-400 RPM’s higher at idle. I kid you not. Now, I did put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the tank the last time I filled up, but not today. And when I started today, she was right around 800 RPM at idle. Anyone with any thoughts on this? I assume it is a good thing. Carb’s are cleaner? Overall engine running smoother? Things are also quieter. So all is in order? I will keep updating for all the skeptics out there. But until I can take the carbs off and check every vacuum hose/line, I am a believer in the toothpick fix!
I came up with this many years ago when I had my 1500 nice to see it worked for you.The reason for the tooth picks is the wont come loose and are temporary just in case
under the rubber heat blanket beneath the carbs are vacuum hose's with 90 degree turns that connect directly to the intake manifold under each carb that are notorious for getting soft and breaking in the turn. I have found the surging problem on more than two 1500's was corrected when those areas were inspected and repaired. As it's a moulded hose I used a 90 degree vacuum connector to repair it very cheaply.
Thank you for the comment! I have heard of these vacuum hoses being the problem. Is there an easy way to get to them? Or, can you tell me how to get to them? Do the carbs need to be removed?
unfortunately the carbs do have to come off under which is a rubber insulator(blanket) which covers every thing under the carbs. The two 90 degree hoses which connect directly to the front of each intake manifold are the one's that usually brake down and leak right at the bend in the hose. They both connect to a T which is a 1 way valve. If one or both have a hole in them the engine will surge. @@zzotto21
Thanks for the video, mine would not idle right and when you tried to take off you had to slip the clutch cause it would jump up to 3000 rpm there was no in between. I put a tooth pick on the left side of my carbs and it smooth out. It runs like a new one. I also changed my timing belts. I used to work on Honda's 750 and smaller, and 900 Kawasaki. But from the videos that I seen I don't want to pulled the carbs. If the tooth pick falls in I don't believed it would hurt any thing. Thanks for sharing this video.
You are welcome! I wish I could claim it as “my”fix, but I am just passing on what I saw and learned from a post on the web. I also think there may be a very short TH-cam video demonstrating the toothpick fix. In any event, I am glad it worked for you as well as it is working for me. Ride safe out there!
i am immpressed thank you god bless you i have my gold in my garage from years ago now i start recover and put it on the road back but you and your knowledge immpressed me .
Don’t be too impressed. Whatever works. But again, this is not the real fix but the real fix would mean tearing down your bike to get at all the vacuum tubes, maybe rebuilding the cards, etc. But, this worked for me. And some have said that it will harm my bike. But no one said what damage it will cause. So if you know of any damage it may cause, please let us know.
NOT a good idea. you are doing nothing more than plugging the air correction ports to the idle circuit and force feeding more WAY to much fuel into the cylinders. these ports are there by design to allow a specific amount of metered air into the fueling ports. Chances are your bike had been sitting for some time and the fuel had gone bad and has partially pugged to idle jets, thereby causing a lean condition at idle making the engine hunt for more fuel. the correct and only proper solution is to remove the carburetors fully disassemble them and clean them properly with a high flashpoint solvent and compressed air. What you are doing can fuel wash the cylinders and at the very least foul the spark plugs. (former Honda service manager, factory trained technician and private motorcycle shop owner with 33 years in the industry)
I like the way you validated your sarcastic criticism with you diploma. He said it has been running rough for years so I doubt seriously that it would keep running for years if it was a rebuild issue. I dare say that Honda has never made an engineering problem so you must be right,,,, NOT!!! I’m willing to bet a $100 he never fouls the plugs or washes out the cylinders. But thank you for your pedigree.
@@skyking4501 Are you suggesting he doesn't know what he's talking about? Cuz I bet he knows a lot more about these carbs than you ever will. Those ports are there for a reason, plugging them with toothpicks (OMG) may band-aid a more serious leak but it's not going to be good for the long term health of the engine.
Yeah, Robert I am having the same problem and unlike xrmc1 “professional”: mechanic, I’m gonna take that information and use it on my 1994 gl1500. BECAUSE I’ve done everything but put a damn stick of dynamite in that bike to make it stop surging. Thank you is not enough, but Thank You!! It runs like a scorched ape now!!
@@kenforu1531 It works, it doesn't hurt a thing. It'll save you between five to 800 dollars. on having to go through the carburetors and pay the dealers to do that. and you don't want to try and go through the carburetors yourself. You'll screw it up even worse. So don't tell people. Don't do it. because you don't know what you're talking about.
You are solving one problem while causing another. Another person mentioned the vacuum hoses. This can be the problem. I found my issue was a vacuum issue but not one caused a hose. The problem was the carbs were not in sync. When they get out of sync it throws the vacuum pressure off on one side so it try’s to compensate by throttling up. Then the sensor reads to much vacuum and lets off throttle. That’s where your surge comes in. I would suggest finding a video on how to do a carb sync. There are plenty out there. You will need a set of vacuum gauges and a long flat head screwdriver as well as removing the plastics to access both sides of the carbs and manifolds. Remember, the vacuum operating correctly is what makes the carburetors work properly. Sticking toothpicks in only makes the change on the idle position noticeable. But you could tell by how much higher the engine reved up in doing this. A full 1000 rpm in your case. Now the vacuum can no longer make adjustments to to the carburetors due to riding conditions such as cold weather. Thin air in high altitude and such. Not to mention the carbs are still out of sync. Causing bad fuel milage, diminishing performance, and long term effects of one half of the engine running hotter.
Thank you for the comment. As you have seen in the many other comments, there is no doubt that this toothpick hack is solving the underlying problem. Vacuum issues has been reported as the number 1 issue and now your comment about the carbs not being sync’s, and other comments as well. My only point was that my problem was solved for my 30 year old motorcycle without spending a ton of money or time. And I also note that my gas mileage was not affected nor did I see any adverse issues with performance. So I agree with you: Fix the real problem. But in the meantime, until you have the time and/or money, you may want to try the hack I “found,” as I cannot take credit for it.
I had a hunting issue, along with a hesitation at throttle up. Made it scarry pulling out in first gear. Would start then bog, hesitate, then put more throttle and then surge up. I followed a great video from I guy with a green 1500 on how to tear off carb, and after some google research, sent it out to a guy named Bear. Yeah. Bear. Put that sucker back on and running like a dream. I am glad I had the carb rebuilt and cleaned by a pro, and didn't try any shortcuts, cause I know I would have tried this had I seen it before I got the carb rebuilt. Think about this.... "It's a HONDA" is a saying that people say when they refer to how incredible long their machines last. This is not by accident, but through engineering. If the bike ran fine new, then something is wrong. I feel a lot better in the middle of frackin nowhere 700 miles from home when I fix what is wrong. Just sayin.
I agree with you 100%. But what I did is a bandaid, not a complete fix. I will get around to checking the vacuum lines and maybe having the carb rebuilt. Care to share Bear’s contact information? Oh, and with me? “Just sayin’?” All opinions are welcome; as long as they are not political. So thanks for commenting.
I got my 1988 model hunting at idle and I was looking at how to take the carbs off and strip them. Toothpicks will never work I thought but gave it a go. He right, it starts and runs better now than any time I've had it! I put some gorilla glue on the toothpicks just in case they fall off, but so what? It literally a 10-20 mins job if I have to do it again. I guess I will replace the toothpicks with a bit of blocked silicon hose in time just in case the toothpicks get ducked into the head but I don't think it will cause damage of they do as they are so small
Iknow this is late but for future viewers of this don't use tooth picks you can buy the small vacuum plugs to fit that, because sooner or later that tooth pick will deterioate and get sucked in the carb and the problems will begin.
Thank you for the comment. Getting the carbs cleaned on a 30 year old Goldwing is always a good idea. No doubt. But that process is not easy, it is time consuming, and not cheap. And again, the general consensus is that it is probably a vacuum leak. So you have to ask yourself: One toothpick v. Tear down? Your choice, of course. Ride safe.
Update just did this the bike lost the stumble at pull out runs 10x better then it ever has thanks bud and exhaust doesn't smell rich so it's good to go
Hello, I'm looking for information about this problem and I found this video. What happens to me is that the idle went from normal to 1400 rpm and not only that, when driving the RPM in each gear goes between 3000 and 5000, even at low speed. The worst part was when I bought it, it went away on its own the same day, I took a 4000 mile trip driving perfectly at 75 MPH and 3500 RPM and then when I came back, boom, just the problem again and here I am. Could it be all because of some vacuum duct? thank you.
I never had the surging problem while driving. Only at idle. Noticeable when starting up, sitting in traffic, etc. And nothing that extreme, 2,000 RPM’s? That seems like a lot. Maybe someone who sees this CN respond with possible solutions to your issue? Hopefully, at least. Best of luck, though.
I know this is a year old but I had this issue and it turned out tho be the fuel supply hose was pressing in the accelerator pump linkage so it couldn’t function properly.
I would have pulled the carbs, tear them down, clean all the ports, soak in a carb cleaning bucket then finish off with a ultrasonic cleaner. Does it have 50 state emissions or Kalifornia emissions, makes a difference. Also, use Tecron once a year, and for storage, Sta-bil.
I do think it is a vacuum leak somewhere. I think my carbs are good. But your fix - Well, whatever works for you! And I use Marvel Mystery Oil every few tanks of fuel. Love that stuff. In the crankcase too. Happy and Safe riding!
Yeah, ain’t that something? That a good ole tooth pic fixed it and stopped him from having to write an essay on ‘how much he knows about carbs’. Way to go Robert!!! Yer killen ‘em.
No, I never had that. What I found interesting was the advice that it could be the fuel filter, bad gas, etc. It was not that at all. I never did remove the carbs and have them cleaned so that could still be the issue. But again, my best guess is the advice that it is a vacuum issue. That makes the most sense to me. But it is a big job to take it apart to the point of getting to all the vacuum hoses. My “fix” was just temporary, however; the real fix being to find the vacuum leak and replacing vacuum hoses. The best thing? Find the vacuum leak, fix that hose AND replace all the vacuum hoses on a 30 year old bike. Ride safe!
I gotta rebuild my petcock, I might just do this for the hell of it since i'll be right there, Thanks for the video glad that fixed your issue, hows it running today if you still have the wing?
Still have the Wing? Never getting rid of her. Still running great! Every now and then, when she starts, she bellows smoke. Not all the time, but every now and then. And this has started since adding he toothpicks, which kind of makes sense if she is running rich. But it does not happen every time, so that is puzzling. And she is NOT burning oil. So I am baffled. Thoughts?
I agree about blowing smoke when she has been on the side stand for a while. She no longer does it now as I am riding her more. Thanks for the comment.
You just simply masked your problem. Running with the choke on would have the same effect. You do not want to run too rich (or lean!). You will foul your plugs and wash the oil out of your cylinders. Fix it the right way.
So basically it sounds like two things to do , check acceleration pump and vacuum leaks are the most likely cause . I imagine bad gas or old gas for pump and age ,vibration for hoses .
@@zzotto21 mine is a 96 so far I’ve found sticking slides that helped a bunch freeing them up still has slight surging intermittent so I’ll go for the pump next .
@@zzotto21 slides are in the video they are the black cylinders in the top of the carburetor they should be smooth sliding. You can move them with your finger and feel if they are smooth. Hope that helps.
Nevermind the comment on the coolant temp video. I found this video and I see what you did. It sounds good however I have never heard of the toothpick method. Thats crazy how it worked. So how does it ride?
Mo: So far, it has worked great. I agree that there is an underlying problem and yes, probably that vacuum hose you mentioned. I have read many comments on other forums from people who had the exact same issue and it was either that vacuum hose or some other vacuum hose. The toothpick method is a bandaid. But a good bandaid! So far it is running great, starts right up, etc. The day after I did the toothpick fix, when I started it up, it blew out white smoke like you wouldn’t believe. I was actually going to take the toothpicks out if it continued to blow smoke but then the next day, no smoke at all. It does stink a little now, because of the mixture being changed, but that is but one price I am willing to pay. There are two big issues for me: 1. What is it doing to my gas mileage? Everyone seems to agree that it will drop significantly. I will report back when I get some accurate numbers. And: 2. The real fix, for me, is a nightmare. Just getting to the carbs, removing them, getting to the vacuum hoses, leaving the Wing in a state of disrepair while I wait for the hoses to be delivered, and then reinstalling the carbs. Carbs scare the crap out of me! I am not motor head, as I have said. And then I thought about having the carbs rebuilt while they are off, but everything seems to be running fine so maybe not? And if they are rebuilt, they will need to be re-sync’s, no? And adjusted. And I am horrible with carbs, so I will need to take it to someone. And that will be costly, I am sure. So for now, I may stick with the toothpicks. Thoughts?
Well, as far as gas mileage, I see no difference! 36+ mpg. Which is great. I ride around town a lot, I occasionally hit 60-65, but rarely. I am a big guy, The Big Kahuna, about 280 on a light day, so I am thrilled with 37-38/mpg. So far so great!
@@zzotto21 thanks for the update. I was thinking about that just a couple days ago. Glad it's working out for you. Thanks for the video because I have never seen nothing like it before.
Toothpicks really not a fix, but starting point, what are those two ports connected too? What happens when you spay some wd-40 into 2 ports? What happens with air pressure into two parts? Research manual too find build then find true fix?
I know it is not “the” fix, but it did correct the problem. Interestingly, as I indicated, my fuel economy has not changed. So I know it is not running too rich, or if it is, it is not an appreciable enrichment. The fix does do one thing: I do not have to take my Wing apart right now to check all the vacuum hoses. That is a big job, as you may know. So for the time being, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” is what I am going to do until I dive deeper.
Sometimes people put wrong oil with friction modifiers and slip the clutch little bit this exactly what happened.... That’s why is important use seafoam to clean the clutch and use a good 10w30 Diesel engine oil ....
Well, I can’t say I disagree with you. But then again, make sure you use the right size toothpick. The toothpicks I used were way bigger than the port and no issues since installation. Do what you feel comfortable doing is always a good rule of thumb.
As a former mechanic, I have to disagree with you. A Toothpick. is just a piece of wood. It would never hurt the valve or the valve seat. It would just blow right through and out the exhaust. If it did get stuck on the Valve. Valve seat. it would burn up. into ashes. The only thing I might be concerned with is it getting stuck in the carburetor someplace. but you could make it such a small piece that it should go right through if it should come out. From everything I've seen so far. in reading all the responses here, it appears this works. I'm gonna do it on my GL 1500 as I do not want to try and take the carburetors off. and like I said, I am a mechanic. Honda made this so complicated. that even new Honda motorcycle mechanics do not want to work on them. If this works so be it. I'm sure willing to give it a try. and I'm going to. I'm not afraid of any damage to the motor because there's no way it can. It's just a small, small piece of wood.
WoW....a fix?. Why do something half assed....check for vacuum leaks...take a propane torch...turn the gas on(do I have to tell you don't light it) move around your vacuum lines. I'll rev when you find the leak..no leak? Rebuild the carbs....90% of all idling, hard start, poor mileage, poor acceleration, poor throttle response will vanish...Buy a $35 rebuild kit... Dismantle them, soak in carb cleaner, blow all the orifices out, reassemble, synch your carbs and your bike will run like new..Stop wasting time playing with toothpicks...If I had this problem I would have done this from the git go...😅. Now you got a bunch of dummies thinking that Honda engineers forgot to install the toothpicks..Sheesh I forgot to mention that the high detergents in Marvel Mystery Oil clean a lot of crap out of the carbs. 4oz- quarter tank of fuel run the highway 20-30 miles..fill it up with premium..especially if you dont ride ofter 😊😊😊
@@zzotto21 Well, I just thought I'd let you know that I've been running my GL 1500. With those little ports and the carburetor blocked off. I knew I was gonna do it. long term. So I bought little vinyl covers. and slid over them. The motor is running great. I've maybe seen just a slight Drop. in. Gas mileage. But that also could be because it's very hot temperature wise. I'm gonna leave it the way it is. I'm not going back the other way. The motor runs a lot better with. Those ports blocked off. I talked to a Honda mechanic about it. And he said, basically, it just richens the motor up a little bit. It will not hurt anything. He asked me if I have to use the choke to start it and I said no. And he says that's because it's running just a little richer. We also told me to go through the carburetors. on the GL 1500. is between five to $700. possibly a little more. I don't have that kind of money. I live on a fixed income. and he said he completely understood where I was coming from. And if this works and it ran fine. To just do it this way. it would not hurt one thing. He also told me it's and putting them back on So, like I said before, I'm just gonna live with it with those blocked off, or plugged however you wanna look at it. And call it good enough. A poor man's fix. I guess you'll call it.
Can they be cleaned without taking the carbs off? I really do not want to get completely crazy with carbs as I had a very bad experience with carburetors as a youth! Lol…. But I did learn a great trick: Always rebuild them on the floor. That way, when you drop those small screws, springs, etc., they don’t have far to go!
@@zzotto21 they will have to be taken off and separated unfortunately. Took me about 5 hours start to finish with a rebuild kit. The more clogged they get the higher you will have to set your idle. If you was close to Chicago I could do it for you. Or mail me the carbs
All hell, check the Johnson bolt assembly that holds the muffler flapper on. That outta fix it. Every body’s a mechanic. He fixed it with tooth pics a year ago and i bet it is still running, and i also bet he hasn’t washed the cylinders or fouled the plugs. Shit!! Just because a guy has a cough, doesn’t mean ya gotta take his heart out and do a damn transplant. Simple fix first.
It didn't work and you're going to wreck your bike like that you read your manual it will tell you always start on full stroke when it starts surging bring it down to half choke when it starts surging there turn the choke off and your bike will be running fine
Never start with a full tank ethanol runs Havoc on a sitting bike when it does it for a long time get some fresh Fuel and sea foam run it through may have to spray out your carburetor with seafoam but please stop putting toothpicks in your air intake and then adjusting your idol it's a conundrum not good for your bikes performance or welfare of your motor
Well, I can’t say it enough times: I know this is not the “real fix.” I agree that there is another issue and I do believe it relates to vacuum hoses and leaks. But for a temporary fix? It works for me. And for others. So until I get around to the real fix, it is good enough for me. And I leave it at this - I do not disagree with you, Dave!
nope. I went through the carbs completely and put in a new accelerator pump. Still surged. Probably right on about the vacuum hose somewhere is leaking, but if it works run it
I have to tell you, the toothpick fix is holding. I am sure others are correct, that the real problem is a vacuum leak, or leakS, but to get to all the vacuum hoses is a real ordeal. Removing the carbs, etc. And then getting the correct hoses, etc. If you had the hoses on hand, I bet it is a 5-8 hour job. Without the hoses, your bike will be apart for days because of having to order he correct hoses, etc. So for now, I am sticking with the band-aid.
Oh hell yeah, just “SIMPLY” pull the carbs out. And next month when you finally have them out, tear them mothers down, and then next month when you get them apart, throw them in a pan of var-sal and clean-‘em then put them mothers back for the next six months and maybe you can ride it again by 2025. Shit!! Imma take the tooth pic deal.
The toothpicks work great and are easy to remove. But, screws will work as well but I would be concerned with damaging those tubes. But hey! Whatever works!
@@williamwitzke953 I have no idea. But, I would try to change the fuel filter. Can’t hurt. And I have serious doubts that that would be the cause. But let me know.
Thank you for the comment. It is my understanding that the only thing that is happening when the toothpicks are inserted is that the fuel/air mixture ratio is changed at low idle. But then again, I have no idea what I am talking about because I am not a carburetor mechanic. But, it worked for me, and it is still working for the guy that bought my Goldwing. With no appreciable difference in gas mileage. But we do agree - it is not the “real” fix. But then again, it is a 30 year old motorcycle. Anyway, thanks again for the comment and if you do indeed know what long term damage it is causing, let us know?
Actually, no, they are not. The surging and hard starting are a known “thing” with the GL 1500’s, I have been told. And which I have read about. My best guess is that I have some significant vacuum hose issues somewhere. But I do not want to tear everything down right now.
Well, I am not a professional TH-camr and sometimes I don’t think about things. Having said that, I did show how the engine was running without them in the beginning of he video - surging and and very low idle. When I removed the toothpicks, the idle went way down and she starting surging again.
@@lloydbranham227 Hopefully it works for you! I have no idea why it works, but it works for my ‘94 Wing. I just had her out the other day and I really think it has not run this well since I can remember. People have posted that I am ruining my bike but no one can tell me how or why. If yu have any thoughts about the pros or cons, I would appreciate it letting me know. Thanks for posting! All the best,…
Sorry to say it but these ‘fixes’ are just daft. Take Steve penny’s comment seriously and do it right. Does anyone really think the Honda engineers designed the carbs with a convenient little hole to be plugged in case of an idle issue?! As said by others... whether it works or not, you’re just prolonging more inevitable problems. You wouldn’t put on a tourniquet to stop a bleed say... that’ll do and leave it ! Ok, bit extreme, you get the point, right 😁
Put Seafoam can on oil ride for 100 miles, drain when still hot, put new 10w30 Diesel engine oil and filter ride for 800 miles I believe that’s will be enough to fix.....
@@zzotto21 because, sometimes you replace the vacuum line and still the bike no works good, specially when you buy the bike from somebody else or you put wrong oil with friction modifiers accidentally.....
This is gonna cause more damage down the road. Those holes are not meant to be clogged with tooth picks. You have a vacuum issue….pull the carbs and fix it right. I did mine a few months back cause it was doing the same thing. You have about 17 vacuum hoses, check everyone. There is one right under the left carb with a 90 degree turn that is notorious for causing this issue. If it’s not that one, there are more to check. They dry out and get brittle over time. You may need to sync your carbs as this can cause this problem also. Not sure of your mileage but if it’s reached 100k, I would definitely change the timing belts. It’s very good insurance and easy to DIY. That’s probably nothing to do with your surge but just thought I would offer some good advice. Whatever you do don’t leave those toothpicks in those holes…that’s a little more good advice. Just hate to see you end up having to fix more than you need to. Take care of the vacuum leaks and your problem will go away…oh yeah I almost forgot…while you have the carbs off, clean then really good or rebuild. I would rebuild myself but a good cleaning will do wonders. Take out all jets and blast them out really good…good luck!
Thanks. Yes, I know I have to break her down to get to the vacuum hoses, as they are the problem. But hopefully, my fix is temporary and it is working. Thanks, again.
I have the same problem. I have wanted to hear about this for a long time. Thanks a lot
Yep I can see those toothpicks working lose and down the intake , boom !
This fix does work and no side affects or fuel consumption issues. came up with the fix some 18 years ago
UPDATE!
I just changed my oil, using Rotella T6 15W-40, and my final drive gear oil. I never changed the final drive gear oil before and it is easy peasy, as long as you have a 17 mm wrench. I used Valvoline Full Synthetic 75W-90 gear oil, BTW. I think it was about 5-6 years ago when that was changed out. I know… I am such a loser.
So today, I went out for a nice long ride. About 140 miles or so. I checked my MPG and I averaged 39.03. I am about 290 lbs., and I was on a four lane road doing 65-70 for a bit, so I am pretty happy about the MPG.
Something of note: before I changed the oil, I put about 4 ounces of Seafoam in her and rode her for about 75 miles. I then added 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil and did about 30 miles. When I changed the oil, some “chunks” came out! So I guess it was a good thing running the Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil through her!
Something interesting: I never used Shell gasoline before in the Wing but today, the Sunoco station that I sometimes go to is now a Shell station. So I said “what the heck!” I filled her up with regular gas.
I stopped to drink some water as it was pretty hot in this Florida sun, and when I started her up, I noticed she was running about 300-400 RPM’s higher at idle. I kid you not. Now, I did put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the tank the last time I filled up, but not today. And when I started today, she was right around 800 RPM at idle.
Anyone with any thoughts on this? I assume it is a good thing. Carb’s are cleaner? Overall engine running smoother? Things are also quieter. So all is in order?
I will keep updating for all the skeptics out there. But until I can take the carbs off and check every vacuum hose/line, I am a believer in the toothpick fix!
I came up with this many years ago when I had my 1500 nice to see it worked for you.The reason for the tooth picks is the wont come loose and are temporary just in case
under the rubber heat blanket beneath the carbs are vacuum hose's with 90 degree turns that connect directly to the intake manifold under each carb that are notorious for getting soft and breaking in the turn. I have found the surging problem on more than two 1500's was corrected when those areas were inspected and repaired. As it's a moulded hose I used a 90 degree vacuum connector to repair it very cheaply.
Thank you for the comment! I have heard of these vacuum hoses being the problem. Is there an easy way to get to them?
Or, can you tell me how to get to them? Do the carbs need to be removed?
unfortunately the carbs do have to come off under which is a rubber insulator(blanket) which covers every thing under the carbs. The two 90 degree hoses which connect directly to the front of each intake manifold are the one's that usually brake down and leak right at the bend in the hose. They both connect to a T which is a 1 way valve. If one or both have a hole in them the engine will surge. @@zzotto21
Thanks for the video, mine would not idle right and when you tried to take off you had to slip the clutch cause it would jump up to 3000 rpm there was no in between. I put a tooth pick on the left side of my carbs and it smooth out. It runs like a new one. I also changed my timing belts. I used to work on Honda's 750 and smaller, and 900 Kawasaki. But from the videos that I seen I don't want to pulled the carbs. If the tooth pick falls in I don't believed it would hurt any thing. Thanks for sharing this video.
You are welcome! I wish I could claim it as “my”fix, but I am just passing on what I saw and learned from a post on the web. I also think there may be a very short TH-cam video demonstrating the toothpick fix. In any event, I am glad it worked for you as well as it is working for me.
Ride safe out there!
@@zzotto21I want to buy
i am immpressed thank you god bless you i have my gold in my garage from years ago now i start recover and put it on the road back but you and your knowledge immpressed me .
Don’t be too impressed. Whatever works. But again, this is not the real fix but the real fix would mean tearing down your bike to get at all the vacuum tubes, maybe rebuilding the cards, etc. But, this worked for me.
And some have said that it will harm my bike. But no one said what damage it will cause. So if you know of any damage it may cause, please let us know.
NOT a good idea. you are doing nothing more than plugging the air correction ports to the idle circuit and force feeding more WAY to much fuel into the cylinders. these ports are there by design to allow a specific amount of metered air into the fueling ports. Chances are your bike had been sitting for some time and the fuel had gone bad and has partially pugged to idle jets, thereby causing a lean condition at idle making the engine hunt for more fuel. the correct and only proper solution is to remove the carburetors fully disassemble them and clean them properly with a high flashpoint solvent and compressed air. What you are doing can fuel wash the cylinders and at the very least foul the spark plugs. (former Honda service manager, factory trained technician and private motorcycle shop owner with 33 years in the industry)
Is there any way to communicate with you directly? I would very much appreciate the occasional tip while I'm rebuilding my bike
Thank you...couldn't be better stated. Jury rigging is never a good idea,esp. with fuel management.
I like the way you validated your sarcastic criticism with you diploma. He said it has been running rough for years so I doubt seriously that it would keep running for years if it was a rebuild issue. I dare say that Honda has never made an engineering problem so you must be right,,,, NOT!!! I’m willing to bet a $100 he never fouls the plugs or washes out the cylinders. But thank you for your pedigree.
@@skyking4501 Are you suggesting he doesn't know what he's talking about? Cuz I bet he knows a lot more about these carbs than you ever will. Those ports are there for a reason, plugging them with toothpicks (OMG) may band-aid a more serious leak but it's not going to be good for the long term health of the engine.
Yeah, Robert I am having the same problem and unlike xrmc1 “professional”: mechanic, I’m gonna take that information and use it on my 1994 gl1500. BECAUSE I’ve done everything but put a damn stick of dynamite in that bike to make it stop surging.
Thank you is not enough, but Thank You!!
It runs like a scorched ape now!!
I wish I could take the credit, but I found this toothpick trick somewhere online.
Really happy it worked for you too!
Good gosh I love that paint color. And thank you for the clue on the carbs
Don't do it!!
@@kenforu1531 It works, it doesn't hurt a thing. It'll save you between five to 800 dollars. on having to go through the carburetors and pay the dealers to do that. and you don't want to try and go through the carburetors yourself. You'll screw it up even worse. So don't tell people. Don't do it. because you don't know what you're talking about.
You are solving one problem while causing another. Another person mentioned the vacuum hoses. This can be the problem. I found my issue was a vacuum issue but not one caused a hose. The problem was the carbs were not in sync. When they get out of sync it throws the vacuum pressure off on one side so it try’s to compensate by throttling up. Then the sensor reads to much vacuum and lets off throttle. That’s where your surge comes in. I would suggest finding a video on how to do a carb sync. There are plenty out there. You will need a set of vacuum gauges and a long flat head screwdriver as well as removing the plastics to access both sides of the carbs and manifolds. Remember, the vacuum operating correctly is what makes the carburetors work properly. Sticking toothpicks in only makes the change on the idle position noticeable. But you could tell by how much higher the engine reved up in doing this. A full 1000 rpm in your case. Now the vacuum can no longer make adjustments to to the carburetors due to riding conditions such as cold weather. Thin air in high altitude and such. Not to mention the carbs are still out of sync. Causing bad fuel milage, diminishing performance, and long term effects of one half of the engine running hotter.
Thank you for the comment. As you have seen in the many other comments, there is no doubt that this toothpick hack is solving the underlying problem. Vacuum issues has been reported as the number 1 issue and now your comment about the carbs not being sync’s, and other comments as well.
My only point was that my problem was solved for my 30 year old motorcycle without spending a ton of money or time. And I also note that my gas mileage was not affected nor did I see any adverse issues with performance.
So I agree with you: Fix the real problem.
But in the meantime, until you have the time and/or money, you may want to try the hack I “found,” as I cannot take credit for it.
I had a hunting issue, along with a hesitation at throttle up. Made it scarry pulling out in first gear. Would start then bog, hesitate, then put more throttle and then surge up.
I followed a great video from I guy with a green 1500 on how to tear off carb, and after some google research, sent it out to a guy named Bear. Yeah. Bear.
Put that sucker back on and running like a dream.
I am glad I had the carb rebuilt and cleaned by a pro, and didn't try any shortcuts, cause I know I would have tried this had I seen it before I got the carb rebuilt.
Think about this.... "It's a HONDA" is a saying that people say when they refer to how incredible long their machines last. This is not by accident, but through engineering. If the bike ran fine new, then something is wrong. I feel a lot better in the middle of frackin nowhere 700 miles from home when I fix what is wrong. Just sayin.
I agree with you 100%. But what I did is a bandaid, not a complete fix. I will get around to checking the vacuum lines and maybe having the carb rebuilt.
Care to share Bear’s contact information?
Oh, and with me? “Just sayin’?” All opinions are welcome; as long as they are not political.
So thanks for commenting.
I had bear work on my gl1500. Drove it to his shop in Judah Wisconsin.
It fixed my 1990 gl 1500 surging and cold start problems. Thanks
You are welcome. I still smile with this “fix.”
What is the Honda part # for those toothpicks ? Lol
Wow mine does the same thing so now I can fix mine awesome thank you for sharing now I need to see how to change the Handel bar grips
Thank you for sharing it worked for me also thank you so much.
I got my 1988 model hunting at idle and I was looking at how to take the carbs off and strip them.
Toothpicks will never work I thought but gave it a go.
He right, it starts and runs better now than any time I've had it!
I put some gorilla glue on the toothpicks just in case they fall off, but so what? It literally a 10-20 mins job if I have to do it again.
I guess I will replace the toothpicks with a bit of blocked silicon hose in time just in case the toothpicks get ducked into the head but I don't think it will cause damage of they do as they are so small
Iknow this is late but for future viewers of this don't use tooth picks you can buy the small vacuum plugs to fit that, because sooner or later that tooth pick will deterioate and get sucked in the carb and the problems will begin.
Any chance you can give me some tips on that Idle adjustment near the Gas Cap? I can't get my 95 to adjust 😫
If you can take the air filter out you can pull the carbs and send them in and have them cleaned and rebuilt and turned. That’s the real fix.
Thank you for the comment. Getting the carbs cleaned on a 30 year old Goldwing is always a good idea. No doubt. But that process is not easy, it is time consuming, and not cheap. And again, the general consensus is that it is probably a vacuum leak. So you have to ask yourself: One toothpick v. Tear down? Your choice, of course. Ride safe.
Update just did this the bike lost the stumble at pull out runs 10x better then it ever has thanks bud and exhaust doesn't smell rich so it's good to go
Glad it worked for you as well!
Safe riding….
Hello, I'm looking for information about this problem and I found this video. What happens to me is that the idle went from normal to 1400 rpm and not only that, when driving the RPM in each gear goes between 3000 and 5000, even at low speed. The worst part was when I bought it, it went away on its own the same day, I took a 4000 mile trip driving perfectly at 75 MPH and 3500 RPM and then when I came back, boom, just the problem again and here I am. Could it be all because of some vacuum duct? thank you.
I never had the surging problem while driving. Only at idle. Noticeable when starting up, sitting in traffic, etc. And nothing that extreme, 2,000 RPM’s? That seems like a lot.
Maybe someone who sees this CN respond with possible solutions to your issue? Hopefully, at least.
Best of luck, though.
Your throttle shaft seal is leaking. I’ve seen it before.
Thanks for commenting.
I know this is a year old but I had this issue and it turned out tho be the fuel supply hose was pressing in the accelerator pump linkage so it couldn’t function properly.
Vacuum leak im hunting for it now going to smoke test every thing tomorrow
That crazy but thanks for sharing!!!
Thank you for the comment.
I would have pulled the carbs, tear them down, clean all the ports, soak in a carb cleaning bucket then finish off with a ultrasonic cleaner. Does it have 50 state emissions or Kalifornia emissions, makes a difference. Also, use Tecron once a year, and for storage, Sta-bil.
I do think it is a vacuum leak somewhere. I think my carbs are good. But your fix - Well, whatever works for you!
And I use Marvel Mystery Oil every few tanks of fuel. Love that stuff. In the crankcase too.
Happy and Safe riding!
Yeah, ain’t that something? That a good ole tooth pic fixed it and stopped him from having to write an essay on ‘how much he knows about carbs’. Way to go Robert!!! Yer killen ‘em.
Did it kind of miss under 2k like try to pull out it kind of stumbles
No, I never had that. What I found interesting was the advice that it could be the fuel filter, bad gas, etc. It was not that at all. I never did remove the carbs and have them cleaned so that could still be the issue. But again, my best guess is the advice that it is a vacuum issue. That makes the most sense to me. But it is a big job to take it apart to the point of getting to all the vacuum hoses. My “fix” was just temporary, however; the real fix being to find the vacuum leak and replacing vacuum hoses. The best thing? Find the vacuum leak, fix that hose AND replace all the vacuum hoses on a 30 year old bike.
Ride safe!
Great idea. Be interesting to know how well it runs down the road as well. "Let us know?" Thanks.
Also put seafoam full can on gas tank to clean your carburetor just for safety...
I gotta rebuild my petcock, I might just do this for the hell of it since i'll be right there, Thanks for the video glad that fixed your issue, hows it running today if you still have the wing?
Still have the Wing? Never getting rid of her. Still running great! Every now and then, when she starts, she bellows smoke. Not all the time, but every now and then. And this has started since adding he toothpicks, which kind of makes sense if she is running rich. But it does not happen every time, so that is puzzling. And she is NOT burning oil. So I am baffled.
Thoughts?
@@zzotto21 Smoking a little is normal when side stand is used because of the valve guide seals. Try using the center stand and see if that cures it.
I agree about blowing smoke when she has been on the side stand for a while. She no longer does it now as I am riding her more. Thanks for the comment.
Where do you live ?
fuel filter clogged?
No. The general consensus is that when this happens, it is a vacuum leak somewhere. I agree, by the way.
You just simply masked your problem. Running with the choke on would have the same effect. You do not want to run too rich (or lean!). You will foul your plugs and wash the oil out of your cylinders. Fix it the right way.
So basically it sounds like two things to do , check acceleration pump and vacuum leaks are the most likely cause . I imagine bad gas or old gas for pump and age ,vibration for hoses .
My ‘Wing is a ‘94. In all likelihood, my guess is that I have vacuum hoses that have dry rotted. Cracks, tears, and such.
@@zzotto21 mine is a 96 so far I’ve found sticking slides that helped a bunch freeing them up still has slight surging intermittent so I’ll go for the pump next .
@@jerrypeal653 Sticking slides? Educate me! I have no idea what you are talking about.
@@zzotto21 slides are in the video they are the black cylinders in the top of the carburetor they should be smooth sliding. You can move them with your finger and feel if they are smooth. Hope that helps.
Nevermind the comment on the coolant temp video. I found this video and I see what you did. It sounds good however I have never heard of the toothpick method. Thats crazy how it worked. So how does it ride?
Mo: So far, it has worked great. I agree that there is an underlying problem and yes, probably that vacuum hose you mentioned. I have read many comments on other forums from people who had the exact same issue and it was either that vacuum hose or some other vacuum hose.
The toothpick method is a bandaid. But a good bandaid! So far it is running great, starts right up, etc. The day after I did the toothpick fix, when I started it up, it blew out white smoke like you wouldn’t believe. I was actually going to take the toothpicks out if it continued to blow smoke but then the next day, no smoke at all. It does stink a little now, because of the mixture being changed, but that is but one price I am willing to pay.
There are two big issues for me:
1. What is it doing to my gas mileage? Everyone seems to agree that it will drop significantly. I will report back when I get some accurate numbers.
And:
2. The real fix, for me, is a nightmare. Just getting to the carbs, removing them, getting to the vacuum hoses, leaving the Wing in a state of disrepair while I wait for the hoses to be delivered, and then reinstalling the carbs. Carbs scare the crap out of me! I am not motor head, as I have said. And then I thought about having the carbs rebuilt while they are off, but everything seems to be running fine so maybe not? And if they are rebuilt, they will need to be re-sync’s, no? And adjusted. And I am horrible with carbs, so I will need to take it to someone. And that will be costly, I am sure.
So for now, I may stick with the toothpicks.
Thoughts?
Well, as far as gas mileage, I see no difference! 36+ mpg. Which is great. I ride around town a lot, I occasionally hit 60-65, but rarely. I am a big guy, The Big Kahuna, about 280 on a light day, so I am thrilled with 37-38/mpg. So far so great!
Another tank of gas - 39.01/mpg. No appreciable reduction in mpg’s with the toothpick solution. I will continue to post mpg when I remember.
@@zzotto21 thanks for the update. I was thinking about that just a couple days ago. Glad it's working out for you. Thanks for the video because I have never seen nothing like it before.
Toothpicks really not a fix, but starting point, what are those two ports connected too? What happens when you spay some wd-40 into 2 ports? What happens with air pressure into two parts? Research manual too find build then find true fix?
I know it is not “the” fix, but it did correct the problem. Interestingly, as I indicated, my fuel economy has not changed. So I know it is not running too rich, or if it is, it is not an appreciable enrichment.
The fix does do one thing: I do not have to take my Wing apart right now to check all the vacuum hoses. That is a big job, as you may know.
So for the time being, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” is what I am going to do until I dive deeper.
it was good for selling a bike i am the buyer and found this shit on mi bike ,the bike eat gas like 2 cars combined ....
I would not follow this advice, those openings are there for a reason, and stuffing tooth picks in is a sure way to cause problems down the road.
Sometimes people put wrong oil with friction modifiers and slip the clutch little bit this exactly what happened.... That’s why is important use seafoam to clean the clutch and use a good 10w30 Diesel engine oil ....
Not a good idea if the tooth pick drop in the manifold, would distroy the valve intake
Well, I can’t say I disagree with you. But then again, make sure you use the right size toothpick. The toothpicks I used were way bigger than the port and no issues since installation. Do what you feel comfortable doing is always a good rule of thumb.
As a former mechanic, I have to disagree with you. A Toothpick. is just a piece of wood. It would never hurt the valve or the valve seat. It would just blow right through and out the exhaust. If it did get stuck on the Valve. Valve seat. it would burn up. into ashes. The only thing I might be concerned with is it getting stuck in the carburetor someplace. but you could make it such a small piece that it should go right through if it should come out. From everything I've seen so far. in reading all the responses here, it appears this works. I'm gonna do it on my GL 1500 as I do not want to try and take the carburetors off. and like I said, I am a mechanic. Honda made this so complicated. that even new Honda motorcycle mechanics do not want to work on them. If this works so be it. I'm sure willing to give it a try. and I'm going to. I'm not afraid of any damage to the motor because there's no way it can. It's just a small, small piece of wood.
@@glenmurra2263 Keep me posted, please. I am curious if it works for you. And thank you for the comment!
WoW....a fix?. Why do something half assed....check for vacuum leaks...take a propane torch...turn the gas on(do I have to tell you don't light it) move around your vacuum lines. I'll rev when you find the leak..no leak? Rebuild the carbs....90% of all idling, hard start, poor mileage, poor acceleration, poor throttle response will vanish...Buy a $35 rebuild kit... Dismantle them, soak in carb cleaner, blow all the orifices out, reassemble, synch your carbs and your bike will run like new..Stop wasting time playing with toothpicks...If I had this problem I would have done this from the git go...😅. Now you got a bunch of dummies thinking that Honda engineers forgot to install the toothpicks..Sheesh
I forgot to mention that the high detergents in Marvel Mystery Oil clean a lot of crap out of the carbs. 4oz- quarter tank of fuel run the highway 20-30 miles..fill it up with premium..especially if you dont ride ofter 😊😊😊
@@zzotto21 Well, I just thought I'd let you know that I've been running my GL 1500. With those little ports and the carburetor blocked off. I knew I was gonna do it. long term. So I bought little vinyl covers. and slid over them. The motor is running great. I've maybe seen just a slight Drop. in. Gas mileage. But that also could be because it's very hot temperature wise. I'm gonna leave it the way it is. I'm not going back the other way. The motor runs a lot better with. Those ports blocked off. I talked to a Honda mechanic about it. And he said, basically, it just richens the motor up a little bit. It will not hurt anything. He asked me if I have to use the choke to start it and I said no. And he says that's because it's running just a little richer. We also told me to go through the carburetors. on the GL 1500. is between five to $700. possibly a little more. I don't have that kind of money. I live on a fixed income. and he said he completely understood where I was coming from. And if this works and it ran fine. To just do it this way. it would not hurt one thing. He also told me it's and putting them back on So, like I said before, I'm just gonna live with it with those blocked off, or plugged however you wanna look at it. And call it good enough. A poor man's fix. I guess you'll call it.
That fantastic.
I tried that on my 1500.
Didnt work
Did you try different ports to see what happens with each one? Another problem?
Your slow jet passages are clogged. I just fixed mine. Rebuild those carbs
Not a vacuum leak? Interesting. Thanks for the comment!
@@zzotto21 if need need additional help I can walk you through the process.
Can they be cleaned without taking the carbs off? I really do not want to get completely crazy with carbs as I had a very bad experience with carburetors as a youth! Lol…. But I did learn a great trick: Always rebuild them on the floor. That way, when you drop those small screws, springs, etc., they don’t have far to go!
@@zzotto21 they will have to be taken off and separated unfortunately. Took me about 5 hours start to finish with a rebuild kit. The more clogged they get the higher you will have to set your idle. If you was close to Chicago I could do it for you. Or mail me the carbs
Thanks for the offer. Maybe I will take a look after the holidays. Thanks again!
Check you idle control selinoid
All hell, check the Johnson bolt assembly that holds the muffler flapper on. That outta fix it.
Every body’s a mechanic. He fixed it with tooth pics a year ago and i bet it is still running, and i also bet he hasn’t washed the cylinders or fouled the plugs. Shit!! Just because a guy has a cough, doesn’t mean ya gotta take his heart out and do a damn transplant.
Simple fix first.
Toothppics.....sounds like a problem to me!!!
And yet, the fix is still holding strong with no adverse issues to date.
It didn't work and you're going to wreck your bike like that you read your manual it will tell you always start on full stroke when it starts surging bring it down to half choke when it starts surging there turn the choke off and your bike will be running fine
Never start with a full tank ethanol runs Havoc on a sitting bike when it does it for a long time get some fresh Fuel and sea foam run it through may have to spray out your carburetor with seafoam but please stop putting toothpicks in your air intake and then adjusting your idol it's a conundrum not good for your bikes performance or welfare of your motor
Well, I can’t say it enough times: I know this is not the “real fix.” I agree that there is another issue and I do believe it relates to vacuum hoses and leaks. But for a temporary fix? It works for me. And for others. So until I get around to the real fix, it is good enough for me. And I leave it at this - I do not disagree with you, Dave!
And vaccum leaks
Excellerater pump
nope.
I went through the carbs completely and put in a new accelerator pump. Still surged. Probably right on about the vacuum hose somewhere is leaking, but if it works run it
I hope my idea fix your problem my friend....
It worked great on my 1998 model
Mines doing that on my 98
I have to tell you, the toothpick fix is holding. I am sure others are correct, that the real problem is a vacuum leak, or leakS, but to get to all the vacuum hoses is a real ordeal. Removing the carbs, etc. And then getting the correct hoses, etc. If you had the hoses on hand, I bet it is a 5-8 hour job. Without the hoses, your bike will be apart for days because of having to order he correct hoses, etc.
So for now, I am sticking with the band-aid.
Just pull the carb assy' out and fix it right.
Oh hell yeah, just “SIMPLY” pull the carbs out. And next month when you finally have them out, tear them mothers down, and then next month when you get them apart, throw them in a pan of var-sal and clean-‘em then put them mothers back for the next six months and maybe you can ride it again by 2025. Shit!! Imma take the tooth pic deal.
8
Put a small screws in it.
The toothpicks work great and are easy to remove. But, screws will work as well but I would be concerned with damaging those tubes. But hey! Whatever works!
Could the fuel pump or filter cause it??
@@zzotto21 i tried the toothpicks and it still does it
@@williamwitzke953 I have no idea. But, I would try to change the fuel filter. Can’t hurt. And I have serious doubts that that would be the cause. But let me know.
Very bad advice, short term fix, long term problems
Thank you for the comment. It is my understanding that the only thing that is happening when the toothpicks are inserted is that the fuel/air mixture ratio is changed at low idle. But then again, I have no idea what I am talking about because I am not a carburetor mechanic. But, it worked for me, and it is still working for the guy that bought my Goldwing. With no appreciable difference in gas mileage.
But we do agree - it is not the “real” fix.
But then again, it is a 30 year old motorcycle.
Anyway, thanks again for the comment and if you do indeed know what long term damage it is causing, let us know?
Carbs are dirty !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Another thing to look for in buying a used bike. :)
Actually, no, they are not. The surging and hard starting are a known “thing” with the GL 1500’s, I have been told. And which I have read about. My best guess is that I have some significant vacuum hose issues somewhere. But I do not want to tear everything down right now.
How come you would not show what happened when you took them out, nothing. bs
Well, I am not a professional TH-camr and sometimes I don’t think about things. Having said that, I did show how the engine was running without them in the beginning of he video - surging and and very low idle. When I removed the toothpicks, the idle went way down and she starting surging again.
@@zzotto21 thanks for the video....with it and the comments...I think I can now find my surge issue and repair it...again thanks
@@lloydbranham227 Hopefully it works for you! I have no idea why it works, but it works for my ‘94 Wing. I just had her out the other day and I really think it has not run this well since I can remember.
People have posted that I am ruining my bike but no one can tell me how or why. If yu have any thoughts about the pros or cons, I would appreciate it letting me know.
Thanks for posting!
All the best,…
Sorry to say it but these ‘fixes’ are just daft.
Take Steve penny’s comment seriously and do it right.
Does anyone really think the Honda engineers designed the carbs with a convenient little hole to be plugged in case of an idle issue?!
As said by others... whether it works or not, you’re just prolonging more inevitable problems.
You wouldn’t put on a tourniquet to stop a bleed say... that’ll do and leave it !
Ok, bit extreme, you get the point, right 😁
Put Seafoam can on oil ride for 100 miles, drain when still hot, put new 10w30 Diesel engine oil and filter ride for 800 miles I believe that’s will be enough to fix.....
Why would the oil create a problem with the vacuum system?
@@zzotto21 because, sometimes you replace the vacuum line and still the bike no works good, specially when you buy the bike from somebody else or you put wrong oil with friction modifiers accidentally.....