Marlin Firmware Config - Core XY - SKGO - Chris's Basement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 เม.ย. 2024
- You can never have enough Marlin configs. In this one, we take a run at a core xy config and do a couple of upgrades to our Seckit SKGO in the process.
00:00 Intro
01:04 Marlin Firmware Install
23:05 Hardware Upgrade
38:30 Conclusion
NOTE!!! There is a Marlin bug in 2.0.5.3 that re-applies your Z probe offset when baby-stepping is enabled. The bug is fixed in the next version of Marlin and in the version of bugfix I have posted below.
Marlin firmware:
marlinfw.org/
How to VScode:
• VSCODE - Edit Marlin F...
SKGO printer:
seckit3dp.design/
SKGO github:
github.com/SecKit
Sensor mount:
www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
Firmware from video:
drive.google.com/open?id=1VaI...
Probe link:
www.aliexpress.com/item/32981...
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it's always nice to see someone explaining something, when they actually know what they are talking about.
That's great to hear, thank you!
@@ChrisRiley Great content. I have an Ender 6 with micro swiss NG extruder, all the rest pretty standard (display, main board 4.3.1. I downloaded a new firmware from the creality web site, only for more languages options an maybe a newer marlin version I thought. I did all the process like in the creality's video, but its went wrong. I go back with the older firmware, but nothing happened. I have try later to update to marlin 2.1.2 with configuration examples from GitHub and That went worse too. My fail I'm not a programmer. Now I'm not printing any thing  more, only trying to fix the printer.
Have a nice day Chris.
Kind regards Tito
P.S. Sorry about my English
Damn, you have no idea how helpful this was. I custom-made a BLV MGN Cube in its largest state and have experienced some layer shifting on the x and y axis but I now see that my feed rate may have been set a little too high. I have a Hemera mounted and I could imagine that my feed rate currently, with such a heavy hotend combo, is giving me issues. Can't thank you enough Chris. Just when I think I may have found all the answers, I watch a video and learn something new I love this community!
Awesome to hear, I am glad you found it helpful.
Great walkthrough.
I like your "live stile" with bugs an all.
Thanks for sharing👍😀
Thanks Asger!
I've been having trouble tuning my corea8 this is gonnna help so much, thanks Chris.
Glad to hear it!
Thanks Chris! Talk about perfect timing! Just got my SK-Go last week and was just about to configure the firmware when the notification popped up. Using the same setup as you except for BLTouch for ABL. I am thinking about moving up to a Duet2 to match my RailCore. Really like the web interface and ability to mod the configuration on the fly with Duet.
Keep up the good work. Your vids are among my favorites since you take the time to explain and show everything. Thanks again.
Great to hear you have an SKGO, a Duet would be an awesome add on for it.
Really top notch instructual video, as we're used to by Chris :) I've recently been configuring Marlin 2.0.5.3 for my CoreXY Hypercube Evolution and had to work myself through a lot of the here mentioned points one at a time. And as always Chris still showed me something new in this video, e.g. I seem to have overlooked the filament load/unload gcodes :) I really appreciate your efforts in making these videos, thank you very much!
Great to hear! Thank you for watching.
Very Interesting video. The more I watch you the more I think you are a genius, both with hardware and software. Keep up the great work.
LOL, thanks Dave, just to much time in the basement.
Good stuff Chris I built my own Corey using same board . Your information will help me set up the electronics mate thank you .. cheers from Australia
Happy to help! Good luck on your projects!
Awesome, I loved how quickly I could set it up with your help
Glad it helped!
Thanks for an awesomely detailed Marlin setup. Please do a video on the CoreXY mechanism, and more specifically, the SK-Go and its choice of twisting the belts.
Good point to bring up, I will remember that.
Thanks Chris for your videos. There are not a lot of clear explanations out there about Marlin. Your videos are so helpful in this regard. Great explanations about CoreXY. I would love you to do a video about the difference between CoreXY vs CoreYX etc. I can't seem to find any good explanations out there. I love your work, thank you again!
Thank you! Yes, I would like to dive into all the different setups, I will see what I can do.
Best intro on YT!
LOL, thanks!
Just what I needed, just when I needed it!
Awesome!
Chris - you are an absolute champion. Many thanks for your time and patience helping me make head or tails of Marlin and SKR 1.4. Your blood is worth bottling mate. Cheers.
Thanks Noel!
Perfect timing, thanks Chris
Thanks for watching!
Another killer video!! Damn mind reader. You definitely have your finger on the pulse of consumer 3d printing
Thanks man!
Good one, would like more info on the different CoreXY modes, thanks Chris, always high QC on your channel
Thanks Stig as always, I would like to check them out as well, I will have a look around and see what I can find.
What a EXCELLENT video!! I learned a lot with this video!
Glad it was helpful!
@@ChrisRiley BTW, on my corexy the A & B motors point up the opposite of yours. My A motor goes to y and my B motor goes to x.
I was waiting for this video a long time :)
Awesome, glad I finally got to it. :)
You helped me a lot! I have a MKS Robin E3 and i did my own COREXY, after your video, i used de NEON PIXEL conector to control de extruder fan using a relay module! Now i will try to do a auto off system! My optical endstop didn't worked with this board, to resolve this problem a used a NPN transistor and a 10K resistor! A have an esp 01 connected to have wifi control!
Glad I could help!
Thanks for video on marlin config have to fix a few settings I missed
Anytime! :)
Love my SKGO - added a EZABL sensor and a Hemera extruder - would have loved to have this video a month ago.
Nice! Glad you like yours.
GREAT VIDEO CHRIS as always about to build compile from scratch but I think I will be running KLIPPER
Good stuff, thanks!
Going to test out Marlin 2.1 on my rook printer. Thanks!
Great, good luck with your projects!
More SKGO! Thanks!!
Will do!
Chris Riley now it sounded demanding lol. I mostly just comment for the algorithm!. Take care and thanks for everything!
Thank you bro. You're the man.
Glad to help
Nice video. The new SKR 2 board has a set up that mean you don't have to clip the diag pins anymore when using TMC drivers. I am glad they finally fixed that. Working on a new build with the SKR 2 atm.
Thanks James, looking forward to comparing notes.
Wow, thanks! It is very detailed.
You bet! Happy to help
This will come in handy soon. Thanks.
Sweet! Thanks for watching James!
Haven’t got a core customer yet but plan to before the year is over working on a micro cube blown up 200% so it’s going to be big lol nice video to learn from awesome man..
Sounds awesome, thanks for watching!
Great information. With ABL I replace the bed springs with printed, solid mounts. The bed may be more stable that way.
For best probe accuracy and deeper probing depth (inductive probing through glass top on metal bed etc.) , you can use a 5v zener diode on the probe wires that go to the board, but run the probe power off a 12v line. So 12v goes to the probe but only 5v goes to the board. I can link a video where I learned that if anyone is interested.
Thanks John, yes great info. The 6-36v probes seem to have a lot more power when sensing, great suggestion.
John, that would be great to link the video. I have an EZABL, don't know if that would apply.
@@woodwaker1 The EZABL uses a different setup to achieve about the same thing the zener diode does. I believe it also gets 12v to the probe but only 5v to the board like the zener diode. But it costs much more. A zener diode and probe can be had for about $10. I'm kinda cheap so that's why I went the diode route.
@@JohnSmith-mk8hz Thanks for the information. I thought that was the way it worked, as it is powered directly from the power supply - 12 or 24V. It may cost more, but works great.
This guide has been 10/10! Thank you, Chris. And all was going well in the configuration, but for some reason, some parameters are not updating from the SD card. I need to increase the StallGuard sensitivity, but when I run M503, it always shows my original values of 60 for X and Y. Also, my max feedrate won't change. I know the board has taken the .bin file, because it's gone from the SD every time. All was great until this road block...
I have seen this type of tricky thing before. Format you SD card just to be safe and make sure you run an M502 then M500 to update eeprom after your changes.
hey Chris.. all your SKR setup videos are very great... i just wanted to see more prints how the print quality turns out after so much trouble you went through.......
Sure, we can do that, I have the perfect setup to compare it, stay tuned.
On the skr v1.3 It happen to a friend. (board was not recognized on the PC) We removed the chip D3 which is a usb protection chip. If you remove that chip it will return your usb connectivity via usb to the PC. Chip could be sourced very cheaply and replace to have the protection back into the board. Just simply de-solder the chip and that's it.
Before heating the iron, if you want to check for this. Get your Voltmeter and set it measure ohms o continuity. Measure from D+ to D- (from the usb port). You would see a short between those to pins. Pins visible and marked bellow the usb connection. Do this with the board disconnected.
I am going to try this out for sure! Thanks for posting this, super helpful.
Chris, you do the best job of explaining things without assuming knowledge on the parts of your viewers. It feels like 99% of "instructional" videos at some point end up with, "Then, because we obviously have already *****WHITENOISETECHNOBABBLE******, then you just..." but you actually explain EVERY step. As someone who loves this stuff but knows very little, thank you!
Thanks Tim, I try to break it down where I can.
Yet another top draw video Chris, Can I ask another Marlin 2/VScode question? We have this situation where I have my ender 3 with an SKR mini running nicely, really nicely actually, Now at some point there will be a new, stable, iteration of marlin, is it possible to update Marlin without loosing the changes I have already made? or do I have to start from scratch again?
Unfortunately at this time, you will have to start from scratch, copying your values from your old code to the new code. Hopefully, someday, this will no longer be the case.
thanks, answered the question of can a corexy use sensorless homing, your a star, thank you
Glad to help!
I like the static mounts for the bed. One thing I've always hated was ABL with an adjustable bed. It's like dancing. Who's leading?
Totally agree, fix mount all the way.
I always enjoy you videos because they are so well constructed. One question off topic if I may. I would like to learn more about the proximity sensors, is there a good link to that type of information? Thanks
Thanks! Not sure on a deep dive, but I always found this video from Tom interesting. th-cam.com/video/il9bNWn66BY/w-d-xo.html
@@ChrisRiley Perfect. Thanks for the update.
GREAT VIDEO
Thanks!
very good thanks !
Thanks for watching!
Love your videos. Would like to see a video on BIGTREETECH GTR V1.0 Kit 32 Bit Control Board BTT M5 V1.0 board with how to setup a tool changer on a corexy with stepper motor for tool locking
Thanks! That is one board I have never received, I will see if I can get one for testing.
Hi Chris, i'm planning build a 3d printer but i'm between prusa model or corexy. With your knowledge, can you recommend one way? Thanks, great channel!
If it's your first build, I would go Prusa, it's more straightforward, if you have more experience, go corexy, it's more fun.
Hey Chris, love your videos, always a good place for me to learn. i was wandering if you could suggest a solution to a problem i have. i have a SK-GO and have been using it for a couple of years now, wanted to upgrade to the latest marlin (2.1.2.1), after flashing the firmware (SKR1.3) my movements all are correct when i jog all axis, the printer homes correctly, but when i slice a test cube in curar and upload the gcode, the printer homes correctly and the the print head shoots off to opposite side of the bed from (0,0) and stops in the corner and just starts squirting out filament with the bed dropped. ive looked through the gcode and cant see any glaring issues in the code, so im assuming its a firmware issue, something i have wrong in config.h or config_ADV.h
do you have any advice as to where i should start looking?
again thanks so much for your videos, and your time
Thank you! All I can think of is maybe one of the M92 commands is off. If you use a terminal like pronterface and cable up OSB run a M503 command. If you can send that to me, I might be able to help spot an issue.
Can you do a video of calibrating a coreXY for dimensional accuracy? I'd pay for it 😂 love your work bud ❤️
Hey, I will get back to you via email.
what do you have to do to add a core xy printer to your slicer? Thanks for the help and all your amazing helpful videos.
Thanks! Absolutely nothing, Marlin will take care of it. :)
@@ChrisRiley thanks
If we use parts that will not fall corexy Bed printer, when the power is loss. Can we easily use the power less recovery feature in marlin that you mentioned in the previous videos?
Yes, as long as nothing moves when the power cuts, it will work,.
Have you used G34 and M422 to align independently controlled Z motors? Could you make a video on this Marlin functionality when you get time? Thanks, Jason
I hadn't until the other day, yes, I will touch on this for sure.
Super informative video! My only complaint is how fast you transition between steps. I have to back track your video quite often if im not fast enough hitting pause. Otherwise amazing video. I have learned a ton in one video instead of hunting and watching multiple videos.
Thanks for watching
Hi Chris, do you check or adjust the trim pots on the 2209 drivers? I am in line for a Sk-Go2 kit but have a feeling it will be a couple months before it gets here.
You can, but not needed. I would just use the UART settings and commands. To use the trim port you would have to do some soldering to enable standalone mode.
I really wanna get one once I get out of my country and need a new printer. Would definatly make a dual extrusion version tho. Maybe tilting hotends with a servo
It's a fun kit for sure.
Do you know if the skr mini e3v3 can ban be set up like this?
I tried and its telling me there isnt an e1 driver available . Perhaps theres a way to reroute the pins to another driver?
The mini only has 4 driver slots, it's looking for a 5th one, so it can't be setup the same way.
Your thoughts on #define BLTOUCH_HS_MODE located in Config_adv.h? I use it with #define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 3) which gives me quick travel and first probe moves, but then the very slow second gets the better reading, but all in all, a 3x3 is done in about 20 seconds on my 200mm bed and 30mm margin.
I need to test that, I wasn't really sure what it did. I will give it a try.
Hey Chris!! Whats your opinion on the seckit go? I'm torn between the railcore and seckit go. I've heard only good things about the seckit.
I like it, it's a nice little kit, it needs a few things here and there, but for the price it's a great machine.
How can stallguard work for corexy if the motors cooperate on "straight" movements? Wouldnt the first bump trigger both endstops? Or is it so that if you order Y to home before X the stallguard trigger might trigger for both but will only register for Y ? I have a really hard time wrapping my head around it, i mean i see that it works in the video but still :S
It will trigger them separately, it does them one at a time and is smart enough to know which axis is getting triggered.
I'm taking this as a reference tutorial for my DIY coreXY printer I'm making. Starting from 0, it's quite hard to find the actual settings (J deviation, max acceleration, max feedrate, etc)
Great, good luck with your project!
Hey love your videos!! I have a core x-y... and my prints are flipped every time! How do I modify that in firmware? I would love if you could help me with that.
Thanks! You should be able to just change motor dir on both X and Y. Flip these
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR true
Chris. Good stuff. keep it coming ;) I have 2 issues. ISSUE 1 is sensor less homing is not working for me. I've set the sensitivity as high as 120 and see no difference from initial setting of 60. it does stop when it reaches home but only after a couple of clicks. I used the stepper motors from my Anet A8 for my new CoreXY. Not sure if this could be the problem. ISSUE 2 is using Z-probe endstop. I have "Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true", "Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true", " Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN" & "FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE" enabled. In Pronterface, I enter m119 to see status of the Z probe when not activated, it shows it as "TRIGGERED" and like wise when it is activated. The probes Iv'e tried is a SN04-N and an OMCH LJ18A3-8-Z/BX. The later runs on 6v-30v and tried powering it from the board and the 24v PSU with the same results.
thanks.
Thanks! For you sensorless homing, try homing at a lower current, that setting is available in Marlin. For your probe, what mainboard are you using?
Thanks!
Thank you!
Did you consider "S curve acceleration" On paper it looks very suitable for CoreXY or any printer with a "heavy" direct drive extruder . I wonder how it works with linear advance as they both appear to control the same motion region ( start & end of a move) . I always learn something from your vids Thanks
I have never tried them all together yet. It is one of those things that has been on my to do list for a while.
Thanks for you video it came out just as I was about to update my marlin for my FolgerTech FT5-R2 that I just converted to H-Bot style corexy. The "#define IMPROVE_HOMING_RELIABILITY" did not work for me a stall_sensitivity of 64 it gridded and 65 the carriage barely moved.
Try lowering the homing current and see if that helps at all.
@@ChrisRiley I commented it out and now it homes just fine.
How to apply true level 3 points level on this? Or is it specific to a duet board?
I have not clue, I don't know anything about that system.
how different would it be to compile core zx for switch wire type builds?
Not all that different, it's just another option in Marlin, you just have to follow along and set the motors accordingly.
Hello, a very good video,
but if the X and Y axes are no correct how i have to do to move the corret direction in bolth Axe "X" and "Y"?
as you have to coordinate both axes and have 8 options?
thanks
Thank you! Try to move the axis by hand and keep track of how the motors move. Then you can match those movements in the config.
@@ChrisRiley THANK, i get it, changing first alfa motor cables and then with the beta motors cables, 4 posibilities and finaly of course the 4Th option, and one motor cable was half broker..........
Hey man, i recently purchased a Tronxy D01 as a beginer printer, i installed the marlin 1.3.2 because that what they sent from tronxy aftersales, however i have this weird thing that only 1/4 of the printing area is used considering the left lower corner as center and 110 mm on both XY direction im pretty sure its a calibration problem, now i did watch about 15 minutes of your video but i couldnt figure out if this would help my printer, do i need to write a marlin firmware or just run some parameter gcode?
Hey, so you might be able to just change it with a command. Setup pronterface and use it as a terminal to access your printer board via USB www.pronterface.com/ Check out method 2 here reprap.org/wiki/Configuring_Marlin_Bed_Dimensions
Chris. I have built a 300x300 corexy and will be putting an SKR 1.4 Turbo into it. However, I know nothing about coding ut I have followed your video minutely - watching each small section then switching screens to do the same in Visual Studio and platformio, but despite having done it three times now, whenever I try to Build, I get error messages and 'failed' signs - all of which I have no idea what to do to correct. Any suggestions for a tired, worn out old Vet?
I will take a look.
Great vid. Since the skgo is very often out of stock and going to have a price increase soon, what would you recommend as an alternative?
The Ender 6 corexy will be out soon.
@@JohnSmith-mk8hz Thanks for the information! Was not aware of this, they have a picture on their website, I submitted an inquiry as they are taking pre orders
@@woodwaker1 Looks like the Ender 6 is only going to be 250*250*400MM. Good vertical, but not particularly good size on the plate. So, I guess just kinda depends on what you want to print. I have the Seckit, and it's well worth the wait/money. Maybe another alternative though would be a Ender 5 Plus with the corexy mod?
I will be interested to see what the Ender 6 brings at what price. Doing something like a hyper cube build is always an option.
Please a video on printer with dual z drivers, stepper, two z end stop homing and bl touch for levelling ,one z end stop homing and bl touch is working fine but when use 2 end stops to align the bed before levelling ,weird things start to happen tried every pin available and modified pins on marlin with no clue, either the probe is working but one end stop dont or both end stops align the bed but the probe dont retract the bed when start levelling and cause fault probing , my board is skr pro 1.1 , to note using only two end stops alignment is working fine, bl touch with one z end stop work fine also, with my great thanks.
I'll see what I can do.
I have 12v fans and my power supply is 24v ,and I don't want to use a buck converter so can I setup max pwm for controlling the fans and if yes is it safe?
In Marlin yes I think you can, is it safe? I really can't say there is always a chance you will get voltage when the firmware is booting. I would set it and hook it up to a meter first just to make sure it worked.
SK GO... sounds like a meal made with snails... 😁👍
😋I actually kind like snails. LOL
@@ChrisRiley lol! With garlic and butter??
@@elfpimp1 mmmmhmmmm
@@ChrisRiley lol
When I build with 2209 steppers, it won't compile. Says the slave has the same number as another :(
"X_SLAVE_ADDRESS conflicts with another driver using the same X_HARDWARE_SERIAL" same for all(x,y,z,e)
I am also having an issue where one motor will not move as fast as the other. Tested the belt tensions, cables, and motors. firmware or the board?(skr mini e3 v2)
That might be your serial setting, do you have it set to -1 and 0?
Got a question for ya. I know I can fix it by homing Y before X, but while setting up my corexy and sensorless homing, I was testing the motor directions and homing just the single X and Y. If I home X, Y acts like it’s already homed. If I home Y, X homes normally. Any idea why this would be? Just curious.
I think I figured it out. I need to setup a better way to interface with this printer so I can see what its thinking, but that should be ready soon. I think that I'm tripping both motor stall sensors which is tricking marlin into thinking I'm already at home. I've decided this because sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't no matter which axis I home first.
Ah, got ya, glad you found it. It is rather challenging to get it just right on the core xy.
@@ChrisRiley I think I actually fixed it. Since it was triggering off both X and Y, I enabled quick home. The diagonal movement only runs one motor, so it seems to help. Needs further testing, but it didn't fail right away.
I have been using my Prusa MK3S since it was released. They have made a lot of upgrades to the fimware. One of my favorites is faster bed leveling. I've restarted my Hypercude Evolution build and it's finally all complete. But one thing that I can't seem to figure out is how to speed up bed leveling. It is so slow. It takes 5 seconds per probe. It does 3 probes at each point, so 15 seconds per point. I don't think the MK3 even takes 1 second per point on the grid. How do I speed this up?
It's kind of hard to, you would need to increase the Z feed rate, then increase the homing speed.
@@ChrisRiley That definitely points me in the right direction. Thank you Chris.
Hi Chris
Can You create Marlin 2.0 firmware for my XY core printer?
or tel me where i can download it
Firmware I create got problem with homing X and Y
like also Z where do not react for endstop
I have BTT GTR1.0 + BTT7.0 TFT LCD
It would be difficult for me to create this without seeing the printer in person. I don't know anything about the GTR board.
Question if I may...
I have the SKR 1.4 Turbo and 2209's, I recently upgraded from a 12 volt supply to a 24 and didnt change the "CHOPPER_TIMING CHOPPER_DEFAULT" to 24 volt.
With this cause an issue?? or should I change it right away???
Thanks for your time..
Hey, no issues, this is mainly for noise, the chopper timing can sometime cause a whistle at certain voltages. This setting it trying to help that.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the info....
Is there any guide or step by step to config on marlin? I'm trying to build a D-BOT 3dprinter
This guide is the closest one that I have for that build.
Chris, I watch you because I feel you know what's up with 3D printers, and I hope you can do a show on a modification of a Ender 3 or Anet A6 to do 3mm filament. Or just let me know if it can be done for a reasonable price. I have and Ender 3 and an Anet A6. I bought some filament and somehow ordered 3.0 as opposed to the 1.75 I should have bought. I then thought about what if I could get some us of it. Not practical, but I figured why not try and see if it could be doe=ne.
Hey Les, it could be done, but not so easy. You would need a new hot end and a geared extruder probably not worth it.
@@ChrisRiley Found a unit on Amazon for 18 bucks... We shall see if it works for long. Has the whole hot end/extruder, I will let you know how it works out.
Morning Chris...
I have a question so I chose to post it here related to a marlin question...
So my question is; when setting up marlin for any 3D printer, you obviously have the option to enable your MAX & MIN enstops right! So the question is if you enable your MAX endstops but home on your MIN's, is your MAX going to work in the background? And if so, if one of them is triggered, will it (halt or stop your print in its progress)? what can I expect it to do? I've activated mine with the understanding that it will stop the print from crashing into them (MAX).
I would appreciate it if you reply. Thks...
I'm not 100% sure, but endstops will only be enable during homing. You can play with this setting #define ENDSTOPS_ALWAYS_ON_DEFAULT
The bed size will keep if from going out of it's area if that's what you are looking for.
@@ChrisRiley Yes!!! :) This is exactly what I was after, an option for using them for just this purpose. Brilliant... Thanks for that. I knew you would know.
Am I the only one that does not get a change of status when the probe i triggered? I mean, I can see the light of the inductive sensor lighting up, but the m119 does not reflet a change of state. I`ve followed the video to the detail and can not figure out why it doesn't work
If you have it on Z min pins correctly and Z min pins set in the firmware, then the sensor might be bad.
hey i have a question, pls help, i am using reprap discount full graphics lcd, everything is working but ; heated beds's logo where it and its temperature is shown on status screen, is not appearing, nozzle is working fine but what to do for heatbed, pls help
You need to update the heatbed thermistor setting, it's set to 0 by default, set it to 1 for a test.
Yea I found the solution that was too and I had not uncommented the pid heatbed however now I fixed it thanks
hi chris... your videos have been very helpful till date and accordingly i used this as a guide to compile my Marlin 2.0.x version using Visual Code Studio but somehow I am still breaking my head over the following... can you please help!
Compiling .pio\build\megaatmega2560\src\src\HAL\DUE\MarlinSerial.cpp.o
src\src\HAL\AVR\u8g_com_HAL_AVR_sw_spi.cpp:65:20: fatal error: U8glib.h: No such file or directory
I somehow managed to get the sensorless homing sensitivity down but now when I home the x axis the y axis will move too and vice versa. any idea's? I ofcourse set my logic to corexy. I also set the current to 650 on both axis so, it shouldn't be a problem right?
You have probably reduced the current to much. Make X and Y around 800ma then reduce your homing current to around 30-40 %.
@@ChrisRiley alright, I will try
@@ChrisRiley It worked! I had (x_current/2) instead of no brackets. thank you very much, I sat on this problem for 3 days.
@@hongtse6723 YAY!
Brother did u use mellow fly super 8 ?
As u r the best in explaining and can't find any review for it and if there is they r not as good as u 💪💯👌😎
I haven't tried the super 8, but the Gemini is pretty good and it's close to the same thing. th-cam.com/video/BNxzkBqTwRI/w-d-xo.html
Thank u brother 🙏
Will try that as u explained it's good the rest they make things little to complicated for me as a beginner lol I'm trying to start somewhere I just started to buld a corexy and u helped me a lot thank u and keep the good work going god bless i will keep flowing u🙏
Trying to get SKR boards and other items from BTT/Biqu is a total nightmare right now unless you buy locally and pay a lot more. I'm 4 weeks into my order directly from their store and they haven't even begun the shipping process, let alone the month it would probably take to ship over.
All my stuff is coming very slow as well. Hopefully this gets sorted out soon.
Hi cris.... can I use this on tronxy x5sa?
Yes!
I had an SKR 1.3 and a faulty stepper driver which caused my serial connection to fail.
Interesting, I will see if I can figure it out.
@@ChrisRiley Ok, the way I figured it out was I thought it was the board so I ordered the 1.4 turbo. Used the old stepper drivers and the same problem. I swapped out the modules and I was back in business. And now I have a SKR 1.4 turbo.
hi cris which one to comment for the btt screen?........thanks....
For the touch screen, use reprap_full_graphics
Chris Riley thank you very much
Does this machine also needs 3d printed parts? It's inane no corexy has off the shelf CNC parts
This one only has 3d printed add on's like bump stops and wire holders.
i built myself a Hypercube Evolution. 330x330x400 capacity. i've watched your video here several times on coreXY setup. yet, mine doesn't seem to want to cooperate not one bit. mine wont go the way i ask it to. X seems to work, but on my menu, under the Y axis when i attempt to move it forwards, the number starts at 330mm. whereas, X, starts at 0. i don't get it. not at all. so i downloaded your SK-GO copy and edited it to represent my use of a BLTouch, remove the runout sensor since i do not use them, and various other minor things...it compiled fine, however it still is not working. lol HELP, O' WISE ONE!
So the SKGO didn't get it going either? When you home, what does it do, where does it move to?
i finally got it going. well, almost. when i move X, it goes to the right, as expected. when i give Y positive input, it moves backwards. but, it DOES home just fine. makes no sense to me. lol
@@kryptikfpv4253 Huh? LOL, not sure how that works.
Good afternoon:
From Argentina, I'm Spanish-speaking, sorry for the translation,
I am building a printer, Clone Prusa I3 type. I uploaded the Marlin to the mega 2560 board, and when connecting the motors (X; Y; Z) they make a vibration and do not turn, the drivers are 4988. They can help me with this error
From already thank you very much
Stella maris gimenez
Measure the driver current and see if it is enough to power the motors.
Chris, if I sent you the two config files, could you just have a quick look to see what is wrong? I know it is asking a lot but I am truly stumped.
Send you config files to brotherchris81@gmail.com also send a screen shot of the error message you get.
Thanks alot for this video. It helped verify some z-axis problem where it would lock up but not budge a midge (~ half bees dick). After checking upgraded marlin config (from 1.1.9), checking steppers, motors, ramps ports, adding TL smoother... it turned out: Two leads of the cable to the z-axis motor got pinched somehow. Not enough to sever them but at least one hard enough to cause severe reflections so the motor got distorted signals and thus wining, locking up but unable to spin the shaft. Solution: cut, resolder, reconnect. Be happy :)
Very nice, glad you found it. Thanks for watching!
I almost went crazy finding out wich way to connect xy motors LOL
LOL, I hear ya, I have fought that before too.
That standoffs things is way better and those springs
Works a lot better on mine for sure.
what is ultimakers in 4:27?
Marlin has always used Ultimaker as an example for PID settings. It's just a comment. You should always tune PID for your printer.
I did everything according to you, but I can't download the firmware to the board, I have a 4.2.2 board, don't you know what it could be?
What error do you get when you try to load it?
@@ChrisRiley None, fw cannot be installed on the board
@@ChrisRiley It's on a 4.2.2 board It is for gr32 processor
Could you upload your Settings files
Here you go.
drive.google.com/file/d/1VaIjZnaJZZmDoyC6rahk_tG4erBN_sFO/view?usp=sharing
Chris
my vscode crashed so I uninstalled it and downloaded a fresh copy, installed, and did the platformino ide install now when I do import project and use the mega default and then change to my LPC1768 board in platformino.ini and save the file then make my changes in config.h then try to check compile it throws an error the wrong board,. I have spent all day and cannot figure what I am missing can't seem to pick it up from your videos.
I get these errors while it is building
{} c_cpp_properties.json .vscode
cannot find"c:\users\don44\desktop\marlin bug fix.0 fresh\Marlin-bugfix2.0.x include". [9, 17]
cannot find"c:\users\don44\desktop\marlin bug fix.0 fresh\Marlin-bugfix2.0.x include". [29,21]
sorry it is not clear my brain is fried from trying to figure it out
The whole reason I am trying to build a new file is my extruder motor squeaks when it tries to retract too fast I think so I wanted to turn down the acceleration.
thanks don
You have the non-turbo board correct? You rdefault env says this? default_envs = LPC1768
correct i could not find it in the import boards in platformino in one of your videos you said not to worry it could be changed later and that is what I did.
unfortunately, I was so frustrated I just shut it off before I recorded the error the program reported about the incorect, board ,pins, somthing. I guess i will have to try again and record the message it reports.
know anybody that wants a used x5s, 120-volt bed, enclosure it has been nothing but trouble i got it to be able to print large parts, But i just cant seem to keep it running flips between hardware problems and software. The original board just quit I never did figure what went wrong, second board driver for z-axis overheated because the motors got out of sync and jammed. I got it working and fixed sync problem worked out now the extruder motor is squeaking I think when it tries to retract,
not sure I can get it sorted out.
Why is your belts twisted?
That is one way you can insure the belt teeth never run on a smooth surface.
@@ChrisRiley I have a tronxy x5sa pro. I have almost all rollers at toothed side As the manual says..
I will try to twist them and see if it is better and quiter
@@klyddmeisters Give it a try, it's a fun experiment.
A Duet 2 Wifi video would be far more useful. This is an optional configuration with zero documentation.
Noted.