ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video I return to a call I had recently been to because the tenant was saying it wouldn’t keep up! #hvacguy #hvac #airconditioning #hvaclife #heatingandcooling #hvactrainingvideos #hvacservice #hvactroubleshooting #hvactechnician #skilledtrades #bluecollar #bluecollarpride @ruud @FieldpieceProducts @HVACKnights
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Just another customer that knows how to turn on and off. Not a clue as to why. You educated her, people these days only know very little because thats how they got by in life. She sounds like she has a good heart. I hope she appreciates a good person like you who goes the extra mile every time. Thx Curtis
Thanks
@@HVACGUYI bet the cond coil got that red clay sandy dust back on it got heat trapped in ot causing suction temp to go up
@@kennymayo4578 That may be true Kenny, but I think they are asking too much out of that little unit.
True but the homeowner or landlord should have that job. They need to have instructions printed on a card as to the benefits of keeping the temperature reasonable when not home. OFF is the worst option and will result in higher energy bills.
@@Garth2011 That is true. You can't take for granted that they have common sense.
Holy sh!t you can hear that thing 2 blocks away.
Perfect example as to why asking questions is so important in the service industry!
indeed
Don't block the r/a with the clothes basket
I noticed that too when he went inside
Surprised the fire alarm wasn’t beeping
they took out the battery months ago
@@EMJE272 Nah, it beeped till it was completely dead.
Same reason people will crank the thermostat all the way up or all the way down thinking the unit will heat or cool faster.
My wife!!
@@jonh901271 my father does it to his water heater too, shut the vents off on wood stove so the wood burns slower *but the house is full of smoke*
She’s expecting a miracle at the hottest part of the day with a system that has been off
25 year old system at that.
@@spencersutton7486 indeed
That rattle the fan is creating would drive me crazy
👍 you are correct, you should have told her it cost more to turn it off than to leave it on. Plus the comfort factor is much better.
Great point!
Was taught in school that you save 1% on your energy bill for every degree you set your tstat back up to 5 degrees. After 5 degrees, you start going backwards on savings. When most people hear that they only save 1% they leave it set to 1 temp.
Thanks for another great video Curtis. Definitely an issue of on-off operation. I'm retired from school district HVAC operations and the first thing learned with AC is the air has to dry before it can cool. She indicated that it's operating continuously but it feels stuffy {6:44). That's because it hasn't had time to dry out the building and all the stuff in it. I believe your geographic zone can run dew points in the 60's? If so, running on-off won't work at all. Let alone factors of poorly sealed single pane windows and opening and closing doors or leaving them open etc. Especially every day, it will never have the capability of drying out the house. Basically as soon as it begins to get to the drying process, she turns it off and the system has to begin all over again the next day. This is most likely costing more than if she left it run all the time. Not your fault at all Curtis, Landlord shouldn't be upset with you. You certainly did your due diligence in making sure the system is performing. This is a great video to learn from.
Not your fault. I told my tenant "You let this place get to 80 and you'll never catch up"
Another landleech extracting infinite recurring revenue from an uninsulated, uninhabitable hut... IMPRISON ALL LAND-SCALPERS!
I heard that, or even worse 90!
There needs to be minimum insulation requirements for rEnTaL uNiTs. The complete lack of incentive for building energy efficiency when the person who owns it isn't the person saddled with the bill to heat and cool it is one of many, many reasons that buying things with the sole intention of renting them out should be illegal.
My parents had the same setup with uninsulated ductwork. Old single pane windows and very little insulation on a conventional foundation. 77 is about as low as youd see on a hot Mississippi Summer
You need 18 to 20 deg delta on a unit that old,they had bigger compressors,you need to check return plenum for leaks,and to see if the house is negative ,if it is you have a supply duct leak .the suction pressure is high for a 74 deg return..2 cents.
That would do it, but I doubt that's the case.
Could blower fan speed be too high?
Overfeeding expansion valve will cause high suction too. But I'd be willing to bet there are leaks in the duct work. It's a single return system with the mechanical closet open to the attic. My experience with that setup is there are significant leaks especially if there has been a replacement system installed. It is difficult to seal around the coil and supply plenum when the space is just big enough for the equipment.
@@topher8634 True, if it is open to the attic it will never be right.
The majority of people don't understand what latent heat is. Once I explained to a customer that the ac unit had to pull the heat out of the walls and furniture and everything else, then it would start cooling the air. I never had a call back after that. Great work, keep it up.
Thanks
Heat out of walls and furniture isn't latent heat😂
@@richardbartlett6932 My bad, I should have said the sensible heat. Thanks for pointing out the mistake.
You did the right thing!! Sometime people need to be educated on how HVAC works.
One thing I noticed Curtis was the condenser fan motor did not "coast" when you spun it by hand. It came to a stop rather quickly vs. spin a couple of times before coming to a stop. Would a new problem free motor slow down that quickly, I'm guessing to be a no. I have noticed USMotors has the "Mojave" model and they are rated for higher outside temps and additionally they use "ball bearings" vs. the "self aligning" sleeve bearings. I'm just guessing those are more robust and for less than $10 more, a better bearing for the long run. I know, some HVAC folks might disagree about bearing types but its been my experience the most common reason motors need replaced is because the bearings fail and lock up the shaft. Could be that motor is going to be defective soon.
I thought I was the only one who noticed that. You would think for a brand new motor that thing would have more spin or spin freely a little better.
You're correct, always select ball bearing motor replacements!
My thoughts as well parts are not build to last anymore they are designed to fail so they can sell another one shortly. But he's the expert not me but would love to hear his thoughts on this. Thanks for all your videos Hvac guy I do appreciate them a ton!
Only 2 fan blades too
@@The4thshodow That wouldn't apply as the engineers figure all of that out unless the fan was changed from a 3 or 4 blade to this 2 blade. If it has the correct pitch, diameter and RPM...its how they designed it. Not a lot of them have 2 bladed fans, agreed but they made them.
Well......old a/c man here......with the age of the system, the old single pane windows throughout the house, the guaranteed lack of insulation, the blocked return I saw when you entered combined with the size of the return the BEST she can even hope for is going to be 75° during the heat of the day! I'll say if she's turning it off when she leaves and turning it back on in the heat of the day she is working that system to death as it is just getting caught up when she turns it off again! She needs to set it at 75 and leave it alone PERIOD! Combine all this with the heat indexes of 110° -115° and she has a recipe for disaster it will never catch up and will destroy itself!! I've seen it time and time again!! Especially in those 1970s/80s built houses!!
Yes, I would agree...leave it set for a what temps you want and leave it. 72 is pretty cold but lots of folks want it that way.
Could be restricted air flow.
@@Garth2011 That is asking a lot out of that old unit, it is small to boot.
Man I agree, or turn it up a little and not off. I turn mine off sometimes depending on how long I'm going to be gone, but I know it's going to take a while to pull down. People don't realize that everything in the house, furniture, walls and all are hot too, and takes a while to cool down.
Add the fact that it’s a brick house and therefore a holds heat even longer. No way it can keep up. Plus won’t remove the humidity either. Let it run! Don’t change the thermostat
She's more concerned about the light bill, than she is about comfort.
And so am I; live in a 1500 sq. ft. home and my bill is over $ 350.- per month.
@@bobboscarato1313new ac time
yep--it's called "not rich" these days
@@bobboscarato1313do you rent or own? Try spray foam insulation, it's the best thing since sliced bread.
@@daultonbowers6897 I own and I used to sell several kinds of insulation; some are OK and some are BAD.-
40 year ac man here. I love that Arthur Fonzarelli method of getting the door off that condenser. Perfect!
Duct leakage and maybe Retrofit cocktail, refrigerant mix topper, possible issues
New motor doesn't seem to spin freely, that didn't alarm you, brand new don't mean jack anymore, I guess we'll see . Of course customer thinks ac will instantly cool house down in minutes. That unit needs a cinder block on top to keep it from making rattling noise.
It sounds like grossly overcharged unit; I'm surprised compressor didn't burst!
should the fan blades be so close to the motor? Maybe a lower profile motor is what should be in there too. And it spun like crap
Amp draw was below FLA. If it were dragging, I'd expect it to be over it. suction press was elevated but he said it was 80 inside and the system has been off, so it was a high heat load. Subcooling was a bit high, I don't know what the design subcooling temp is for that system, but I would not expect it to be over 15. High side pressure was 260-what you'd expect on a 90 degree day with an old 30 degree split condenser
I’ve tried tell people leave it alone yes you can bump it couple degrees but when it’s hot out leave it alone I also run a box fan in the afternoon to help with circulation keep cool air moving around
Not just the air in the house but all the mass of walls, furniture, everything is heated up and has to be cooled down as well. Nice lady, but sometimes people just don't get it.
And all the moisture in the air that has to be taken out.
Even though the "utilities" say to alter the temps when you sleep or leave the house, I have to agree, set it where you want it and leave it. Remember, power companies sell electricity and when your A/C runs more, they make more money. I recall years back some news journalist was interviewing a Walmart V.P. about their operational costs and the man had said they did several recommended methods for controlling temperatures inside their huge stores and they finally discovered that setting the thermostat's at the number they chose 24x7x365 used less electricity for them and maintained inside temps best and their observation was keeping all of the mass inside the stores at a controlled temperature was cheaper than allowing temps to rise then try to recover them again the following day.
We do the same at home...we're home most of the time or at least someone is at the house most of the time so we set the temps and leave it there all summer, day and night.
@@Garth2011 Yes, that's what we do as well. Retired, so we aren't away much. We are set at 77 days and 76 night to make wife happy😃
Nice work Curtis.
Thanks!
The, tenant was at fault she turned the air conditioner off then.”
Then turn the air conditioner back on at the hottest part of the day, is not what you want to do the air conditioner will work hard and run all the time. With an older air conditioner it will have to work extremely harder to cool the house down. Like you said in the video don’t turn your air conditioner off before you leave because you’re going to have a very hard time getting the air conditioner to cool the house down.”
I, agree with you!! Don’t turn the air conditioner off you should raise the temperature a few degrees. I hope the tenant learned her lesson! Do not turn the air conditioner off before she leaves the house. She needs to raise the temperature!!
Some people are convinced that turning their AC off while at work will be cheaper than leaving it on. It's way better to pick a reasonable temp like 75 or 76 and leave it there. It takes way more power to get rid of a lot of heat to cool it off vs getting rid of a little heat to maintain temp. I have tested it and typically in my case it will take 15-20% less power over a week to maintain temp than it does to bring the temp down just to let it go back up day after day.
In this case the unit seems underpowered.
I like all the comments. All are spot on!! I get a high electric bill!! But common sense applies!!
Thank god I live in Minnesota. It may get up into the 90's, but it cools down at night. My house is 72 during the day and 66 at night when I crank the AC down. Just got my April Xcel Energy statement and I only used 432 kwh and that's less then half what other nearby home use.
There is more than just heat in the air to remove but heat contained in all the furniture, the walls, appliances, carpets. That is why it is usually most efficient to leave the thermostat at one temperature. If all that stuff in the room is allowed to get hot again, it will take that much more time, and that much more money, to cool the room again when you get home.
Once all the aforementioned items in the room arrive at your set temperature, they act as buffers to help keep the rest of your living space at a constant temperature.
Those old green machines were tanks though and the easiest to do repairs on idk why they stopped making them like that
The Government meddling in things they don't belong in is why.
On rental properties landlords are not interested in high efficiency systems!
Had to turn the volume down. That unit was loud.
To be fair to the tenant, the HVAC industry has stuck with single speed systems for too long. If you had more multiple speed systems, then you could have more capacity for peak cooling while still allowing things to be comfortable during normal operation.
I live in upstate New York where days vary more often between warm and hot. Heaven forbid you get too busy and miss the weather forecast and leave for work without turning on the AC on an unexpectedly hot day. Or you have relatives come over during the day and change the thermostat setting. Or the power goes out for several hours after a storm. Or you go away for a few days - like leaving on a day when the high is 70 and getting back on a day when the high is 88. There is no way I'd stick with a single speed system the next time mine gets replaced.
Love this channel, you are so chill and cool with your clients, keep it up and thank you
Customer wanta play they gotta pay
Residential structures are only designed to maintain 78 degrees inside when its 92 outdoors here in north Georgia. Most systems have a little bit more capacity and on a 95 degree day you might be able to get the inside down to 75 degrees.
17 degrees sub cooling? Seems like it may be a little over charged.
I was going to say the same thing.
But is it a piston if so what was SH.I don't remember
I was thinking either a little over charged or heat strips running, seen it a few times on those old ruud/rheems with sequencers
She needs to set the thermostat and leave it alone
That's my opinion too...especially with a bricked building that is going to be a hot baked potato even after the sun sets. Just like those Spanish tile roofs, heat sinks that need a cool evening to cool off. Gone are the ideas that "turn your thermostat back" doing any justice unless you are the type who sets it for 68 in summer. Every day trying to cool off all of that bulk from the high 80's at 2 PM forward is going to be a huge battle.
@Garth2011 heat rises
@@phoenixhvac-r828 There's more to heat than it rising. It also "radiates" in all directions plus there is the UV heat that passes through materials. If an attic is not vented well or doesn't have a power exhaust fan the heat radiation will build as the temps increase which does allow the heat to enter/affect the living area. That means some heat will "sink" if the conditions are there.
@Garth2011 heat never " sinks " if the space is not insulated and sealed properly and there is a negative pressure created you will pull heat into the space, tile roofs have such an air gap between roof radiant heat is non-existent, now brick home with single pane windows I agree with you
@@phoenixhvac-r828 Radiant heat does radiate in all directions. Been to an outdoor restaurant with those gas or electric heaters up above pointed downward to keep people warm?
@1:16 you hear it and pray it was the one on the right. NOPE. Thanks for your work and publishing these.
We use a setback thermostat on our old system in summer we’d set it to cool around 3 hrs before we got home. It was tolerable. On 100 degree days had to use ceiling fans
Definitely bill for it
Time for a new system my friend you’ll be back 🤣🤣🤣
What do you mean leave the AC on when I’m not home. I set my thermostat at 76 to 78 and let it go
Thanks for the videos. Very informative
Judging by your air temp at the vent (I believe it was 100 degrees until you turned the condenser back on), you may very well have a heat strip that is energized if that system has electric heat. (sequencer stuck) Other than that, your advice to her about turning the system up or off during the day only allow everything in the house to go up in temp (that includes furniture) and all of that heat must be removed before system will start cycling.
If I have my AC at 73 when it’s 100 degrees outside, my ac never shuts off and my house will say 78 or 79. Why because it’s freaking hot. And AC WILLL NEVER SHUT OFF. Reason why I put my ac to 78 from 1-8 pm. Then at 8 put to 75 and house cools down. Common sense people.
Have some fans on the room you’re in and you will be fine. And close the curtains. I live in Texas and it’s hot down here.
Inland CA is the same. 107 the last two days, 15% humidity.
@@dfirth224 You are lucky. It is much easier to cool dry air than it is to cool humid air, and dry air can cool off at night. Very humid air feels 'hot' at 90 degrees unless there is a wind blowing on you. The water molecules in the air won't allow the heat to radiate off your skin.
Yes Texas is dry heat, with heat index it’s 112. I use to live in eagle pass Texas next to Mexico and it’s hotter over there. Reaches 120 with heat index. I’m use to the heat but also get educated on how an AC works. I’d rather raise the AC to not over work it. And change filter every 25 days and clean the condenser at least every 1-2 months by rinsing it off.
Sorry a bit long winded but. :)
When I was in the trade FT, I had one place that had a Daikin ducked system with a huge 3 phase out door (8' High 4' wide) (YES LARGE HOUSE too), they was complaining the unit would keep going all night and not cool the place down + huge power usage because of it.
We had visited the place many times and then the head of Daikin rep's came up and we headed to the place to find no problems with the unit,(Every visit they had someone home and so the unit was on the hole time and working link it should)
It then was coming to a point the owner kept complaining so one day we headed there without telling the owner (100o Day) and found the unit was not running outside, called the owner and he turned up 30 min later.
The first thing we found was the thermostat was off to find out they was doing the same as this video (turning it off when they head out the door).
Tho we had asked and asked if they turned it off when they leave and it was always a "NO" even when the rep was here.
They didn't like the bill we had to send, for the wasted time visited and even the rep did too
They still expect it to get to temp within 10 min of turning it on.
It came to a point that they asked another place to look at the Air Con and when they saw the installers name called us (Good Friends) and we told them the same thing (Billed for that visit too).
Surprising part: We did get an apology 3 months later when he decided to read all the paperwork and followed it and so found out we was telling him the right way to run it, and so the power bill went down and the house kept to temp.
Curtis, I've been an HVAC tech for forty years. I notice that on r22 systems you always overcharge them. The industry standard has always been 63-70 psi on the suction and 30 degrees delta T on the air temp in and out of the condenser with pressures from 200-280psi depending on OAT. this unit was a bit overcharged. At 80 psi the saturation temp is 48 degrees and at 67 psi its 39 degrees, still well above freezing and a better delta t across the coil. I hope this helps as I am usually impressed with your skills.
Agreed. 45 years as a technician and retired now but that little system looked over charged for R22 to me as well.
I noticed the super heat was only 10 degrees. I’m assuming it was at least 80-90 degrees outside as she said it never gets below 79 inside. Also the wet bulb was 74.6 (I think hard to tell bad image quality )degrees so should have had super heat of about 30 degrees. Assuming no other problems with airflow. Seams over charged.
That suction line dryer needs to be removed. Nothing but problems
I hope that wasn’t a freebie for you. The landlord has an ignorant tenant in the ways of AC.
This is really the landlord's responsibility.
Have to agree that motor didn't look like it was spinning very freely but we'll see. The biggest issue is clearly that she's turning it off. I always give people the analogy of the home is like a battery taking charge all day long. Every bit of material in that home is getting warmed up and more and more humidity because of the air is not being conditioned so when you get home turning that air on it's got to cool all that material down expending all that energy over and over and over again. Much better to maintain a set-point plan.
Bet that trap house has about 1/10th inch of insulation.
Couldn’t get in the attic, but you’re right needs to be inspected
Trap house? What gave you that idea?
If it's 25 years old then anything can break at anytime. Surprised you didn't find a dinosaur fossil inside.
It's made it this far...it'll keep going if serviced correctly.
Ask her. Do you turn off your fridge when you go to work? If they say no. Tell her the same goes for your house. Don't turn off your ac.
You can't shut off then turn on in the hottest day . Only way can do it if the unit is oversized and ductwork. Let alone the discomfort is humidity. No run higher humidity and temp . Once in cooling mode don't open windows. This really raises humidity. Can't remove it in a short time. Have a great day.
Great job,Curtis!
Common Sense is a Blessing some Received at Birth but most were Not so Lucky. Unreasonable to think you can Turn Thermostat Off and Expect it to get Cold.
Some people think it's just like turning a light on and off.
high charge
buddy
That Rudd looks exactly like mine. I guess they haven't changed much over the years because mine is 42 years old and still working great!😊
I would have washed that coil and used a 1075 rpm motor and a new blade. I also suspect an overcharge or a hunting txv causing that horrible delta t
He said coils were cleaned the first visit two months ago. Can you just arbitrarily change fan speeds or go with what the oem specifies? How would a new blade help on a twenty year old system that apparently worked fine until this tenant. I don't know, I'm not an a/c guy that is why I'm asking these questions. Had a guy tell me in my truck when its hot, put the a/c fan on low and crack the windows and the truck cools faster. It seems to work. He claimed it gave the gas more time to absorb the heat.
@@kevinwalker4623 the old blade is likely off balance causing the horrible vibration. The increase from 825 rpm to 1075 rpm will move more air helping the unit cool down the condenser better. Its not more efficient on electricity cost but more efficient on how much cooling you can get out of unit. Kind of like spraying water on the condenser in hot weather. You get more capacity. But that delta t was horrible. I still suspect overcharged or hunting txv. The unit is not doing all it could do
my company is typically too expensive for these types. I really feel for you.
we keep it that way for a reason
Do you keep logs of pressures from previous visits? Reference them, tell them they need to upgrade. I mean just look at that Ruud system. That would be a no go in Louisiana. Convince them to upgrade so they can stop blaming everyone else. What you said to the customer was 100%. When I’m gone I keep my place at around 76, around 8-9pm it keeps it maintained at 74. It’s comfortable enough for my roommates not to bitch. But it’s also 100 degrees most days. You can never expect a system to kick your house down lower than 70 unless you’ve got a newer house with double panned windows and lots of insulation. No cool air loss within the building and I always suggest attic tents if their thermostat is above the attic access.
We turn system off in Houston; utility turns power on an off repeatedly and hard start kits and delay timers won't help!
@@bobboscarato1313 Texas electrical grid has it's issues.
Operator error lol
Exactly
I felt like the tenant was trying to give you what she thought was the "correct" answer to your questions. Who knows what really happens.
I did apartment maintenance and also the heat and air on all the units, I was certified in heating and air in case anybody asks, And I had to explain to tenants many times not to turn the unit off but to just turn it down if they were out of the apartment. I had to explain to them that not only does the air in their apartment get hot, but also all the sheet rock in the whole apartment, which is a 1/2 inch thick or more, is basically a rock which absorbs the heat all day long and it takes a long time to cool off a heated rock that's been sitting in the sun all day.
Leave thermostat alone, don’t put clothes basket in front of return and make sure for some odd reason the heat kit isn’t intermittently kicking on. Just a thought. It definitely happens.
I EXACTLY know what is wrong with it. It's Old and Need a New AC system to Replace. Looks old and doesn't sound right 😅😂
Your patience is key, but I gotta be honest. This is why I don’t miss resi
and bad fan motor lol 43 year tech from florida
I'd replace the fan capacitor first.
That yard helicopter itself would even be a violation of code for excessive noise, as in living zones only 35dB are allowed at night and 45dB during the day at the nearest window of a neighbor. That thing is way beyond that.
With a noisy outdoor unit like that you won't have many friends around here. Here some people only need to see an outdoor unit and complain about the noise - even though it's not connected to power or anything. Just. Standing. There.
At 14:15 I don't like that spin. It's not free.
Bad Fan Capacitor, replace it. If still slow, replace the fan motor.
? What does the capacitor have to do with the motor not spinning freely? It's the bearings.
That fan shouldn't stop spinning. I get that the customer turns off the AC, but you would think and correctly assume that she's been doing that always, and just recently the fan and cap were changed. I'm thinking that fan is most likely quitting here and there due to the way I saw it spin when he looked at the data plate, and that's why she's not getting the temperature drop. I hope it doesn't come back. Get em Curtis!
260 is awfully high for liquid pressure on an r22 system. Not helping that she is leaving it off all day,too,but that hi side is suspect.
Noticed that too.
I would reduce the blower speed by one step and I think the system might be slightly overcharged. Good luck bro!
A perfect similarity to the propaganda of programmable thermostats and setback temps. Not many people think of the thermal mass of literally tons of furniture, drywall, and other stuff that also gets to that 85 degrees that the system also has to cool back down. Thermostats are like the Ronco rotisserie tag line set it and forget it.
That fan sure doesn't seem like its spinning all that freely for a brand new motor. Maybe its just me?
Fan blade is way out of balance. Can never spin at the right RPM the way it is. Additionally the lines need re-insulated outside on top of all the other things that really need done.
Fan blade is too close to that motor...
THANK YOU 🤟 😎
No problem!!
The ductwork is likely in the attic and the insulation on the duct and the attic insulation are probably lousy. Best she can hope for is set the thermostat and leave it alone. 👍🇨🇦
You also have to see how well insulated the attic is. Rentals don’t have attics well insulated and with these temperatures in the summer it may be a problem
I tried. Access was likely in the other apartment. No access while I was there.
i payed to have a AC put in my parents house years back and hade the same fight with my father. he instead that he was saving money by opening all of the windows at sundown.
and he did nothing but cry it was hot all day ,,, it got to the point that i just put a tamper proof state on the wall and them ground the heads off of the screws so he code not change it.
then mother refused to cook him meals till he left his hands off of things.
and what do you know if you set a AC at one point and let it alone they will work right.
Especially that split looked like it was about a 2ton. After it hits 85 in there and heat soaks the furniture, it'll cool off maybe by 5 in morning lol.
I don’t think that’s your fault. You told her right, she’s trying to recover around 10 degrees plus the humidity, not gonna happen even in a brand new home with a brand new unit. We only drop ours back 4 degrees during the day, I wouldn’t go anymore than that on ours because it would be the same thing hers is doing. Honestly she’ll probably save money doing it the way you told her verses what she’s been doing. We have a 14 year old 3 ton Rheem split unit HP cooling 1900’ in Kentucky. It does really well at 72 setpoint even in 100 degree weather.
Pump it down to check the reed valves in the compressor
It's a scroll compressor. No valves.
No that is not a scroll compressor
@@markchapman4197 Looking back I see you are 100% correct. My bad.
Yeah I don’t understand why some people do that. You can’t just turn off the system and then when you come home at 1:30 pm during the hottest time expect your system no matter what age to cool from 85 to 90 to 72 like said it will just run all day like that. No wonder her power bill is so high. When it starts to get warm before the summer starts I put my A/C one one temperature and I leave it there and on the whole summer. until fall comes.
I had just set mines to 76
If she concerned with the light bill. Sell her a 20 seer Bosch. Pretty sure as old as that unit is it’s not running at peak capacity.
Nevertheless you’re correct can’t shut it off then expect it to cool it’ll never catch up
Great call Curtis callback not your fault at all thanks for the video
18 degree subcooling? Maybe a tad overcharged. Did you check if the heat strips were on? Seen it a few times with those Ruuds with sequencers
Finally, someone suggests making sure a heat strip is not energized if they have electric heat! If things are clean and running properly, these old units just won't die. They may be energy hogs, but they still cool great. Landlord motto is usually, "If the ac ain't dead, I don't have to replace it."
maybe adding a window unit in the hottest part of the house would also help! brick houses, once they heat up they are very hard to cool down!
I had one of those old Ruuds in the early 90s.
In your area I notice big time lacking insulation in the attic’s. That makes a huge difference on heating and cooling.
Its a learining experience
The landlord has no reason to be pissed. Hopefully you showed him this video. Like the lady said, she didn't want a high electric bill, so she turns it off, and expects the system to magically bring the temps down to 72. I'd be willing to bet she will continue turning it off after her next electric bill.
Seems like to much freon
Inefficient compressor.
lol
Wtf???? Suction would be high and head would be low and that head was significantly high so no not INEFFICIENT
I have been binge watching your videos they are very interesting been having problems with my AC unit got to have a new evaporator coil installed tomorrow but what I have noticed watching all of these videos of yours is it seems like 99% of the repairs you are doing are all on Rheem units are they really that bad….. enjoy your channel you seem like and honest and very professional HVAC
The worst part about bieng an AC tech once it's workin. They don't need ya😮😮😮
I think you’re right on man!
Hey, where did you get the iPad holder for your van?
It's the black thermostat that gets shut off as soon as whey walk out the door. Then they come home with it 90 degrees inside and expect 65 degrees at high noon!
Hey Curtis, would adding more insulation on the out suction line help keep extra heat from being absorbed into the system?