Appreciate the walkthrough I bought a 2016 forester with a bad head gasket and didn’t know it. This video was pretty helpful ❤ From a southerner to a yankee thank ye lol
Great tutorial video …. I watch this video about 15 times thanks to you I saved my self a boat load of money, bought a motor that has 15k from a forester I bought at copart rear ended and yes that engine 3 position lever for the engine host is bad ass …..easy job
@@motorcarnut Hey, my used egine was finally delivered and my old blown one came out without a hitch. My current problem is lining up the motor mount studs, the two bell housing dowels and the two lower egnigne studs. its impossible to line all of them up at the same time. i can't get the darn thing in. Do you have any advice?
@fiaao546 yes, lift the transmission with two pieces of wood about 4 inches high and flush with bell housing that way you can slide engine on bottom studs all the way to bell housing then take wood out and lower onto mount studs.
@@motorcarnut I finally got it in, took me two days to do the engine swap but she popped in. My transmission wasn't high enough. also those fuel lines are a real pain to separate even with the fuel line disconnect tool. Your video was immensely helpful. Thanks again.
Hey thanks for the video; it will serve as a helpful guide when I have to remove my FB25 from my 2011 Forester that recently developed a rod knock. I'm a bit of an amateur and am curious what tools you would consider essential vs nice to have for this job.
the problem is there are no videos for this year manual transmission non turbo. i'm reading about having to remove the clutch fork to separate the engine and transmission. any idea?
On the older earlier 2000’s manual transmissions-On the driver side of the transmission, near the motor, kind of where the starter is, there might be an Allen “window” bolt. The window accesses the clutch fork rod. You need to use a bolt to remove the rod. I’ve used a timing cover bolt to thread it in the pin, then you pull/wiggle it out. The pin is prob 3/4 inch thick and about 6-7inches long. If I remember correctly, you need to remove the starter to see it/access it. I cant say that it’s the same on the newer foresters but to my knowledge not much has changed. Basically everything else in this video besides removing the trans cooler lines on the radiator would be nearly the same as the older cars.
Appreciate the walkthrough I bought a 2016 forester with a bad head gasket and didn’t know it. This video was pretty helpful ❤
From a southerner to a yankee thank ye lol
Great tutorial video …. I watch this video about 15 times thanks to you I saved my self a boat load of money, bought a motor that has 15k from a forester I bought at copart rear ended and yes that engine 3 position lever for the engine host is bad ass …..easy job
That's what I'm talking about! Great to hear that! And really appreciate the feedback too!
Hoist from where?
Damn dude you make this look easy as hell. I've done alot of engines but never in a subaru before.
Appreciate that!
It's not too hard just follow the video and you should be good if you ever had to replace one.
Very helpful, thank you for taking the time to record this. I know it was probably time consuming.
Thank you! Very much appreciated!
My engine blew up and im dreading this swap but at least you made a decent video about it. Thanks.
Sorry to hear that but these engines are some of the easiest to replace. Good luck and if you get stuck give me a holler!
@@motorcarnut Hey, my used egine was finally delivered and my old blown one came out without a hitch. My current problem is lining up the motor mount studs, the two bell housing dowels and the two lower egnigne studs. its impossible to line all of them up at the same time. i can't get the darn thing in. Do you have any advice?
@fiaao546 yes, lift the transmission with two pieces of wood about 4 inches high and flush with bell housing that way you can slide engine on bottom studs all the way to bell housing then take wood out and lower onto mount studs.
@@motorcarnut I finally got it in, took me two days to do the engine swap but she popped in. My transmission wasn't high enough. also those fuel lines are a real pain to separate even with the fuel line disconnect tool. Your video was immensely helpful. Thanks again.
Glad to hear that and you are welcome! Also appreciate the update!!! Good luck!
just wanted to say thank you for a awesome turtorial, great work. Cheers from Sweden
You're very welcome! And hello Sweden!
Would this be similar for a 2015 outback 2.5 also?
Yes it will
Hey thanks for the video; it will serve as a helpful guide when I have to remove my FB25 from my 2011 Forester that recently developed a rod knock. I'm a bit of an amateur and am curious what tools you would consider essential vs nice to have for this job.
Hand tools, of course, mark all wiring as you remove connections and also bolts and nuts. Engine crane is essential as well
Hey this is gonna be my first motor taking out, great video and explanation! But for the engine hoist where exactly do I bolt it to on the engine
Thank you! There’s 2 points one on the rear passenger side and one in the front drivers side. But sometimes you have to fine other ways.
Did you get it done? I’m about to start on a 06 legacy
Look, I would like to know if I can put a more modern engine in an older model?
Not easy if your asking
My son bought a 2017 BRZ engine to replace the one in his 2013 FRS and has had nothing but trouble with it. He's like to sell it.
You don’t mix engines. You put in exactly what you took out. Unless you are knowledgeable on what you are doing.
what are the alternate steps when mated to a manual transmission?
the problem is there are no videos for this year manual transmission non turbo. i'm reading about having to remove the clutch fork to separate the engine and transmission. any idea?
That’s exactly what you have to do then most is the same. Don’t have any videos of a manual transmission
On the older earlier 2000’s manual transmissions-On the driver side of the transmission, near the motor, kind of where the starter is, there might be an Allen “window” bolt. The window accesses the clutch fork rod. You need to use a bolt to remove the rod. I’ve used a timing cover bolt to thread it in the pin, then you pull/wiggle it out. The pin is prob 3/4 inch thick and about 6-7inches long. If I remember correctly, you need to remove the starter to see it/access it.
I cant say that it’s the same on the newer foresters but to my knowledge not much has changed. Basically everything else in this video besides removing the trans cooler lines on the radiator would be nearly the same as the older cars.
@dakotawright6978 Thank you very much for the information on vehicles with a manual transmission. Appreciate this a will help others!
Is this for FB25 engine?
Correct