2010 Subaru Outback 2.5L Engine Removal
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ต.ค. 2024
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----I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.----
**UPDATE** Thanks, Mr. Subaru. A year later I finally got off my 71-year old butt to pull the engine to renew the clutch. I made a checklist from your video and things worked out great (there were a couple of differences with a 6-MT but nothing major). As there was no re-installation video, I assume that reversing the procedure should go well. Again, Thanks.
Sorry to resurrect an old comment, but what were the differences for 6spd? I'm having to pull my motor to replace it, so any tips before I start would be appreciated!!
@@truckasaurus4423hey I’m hoping you see this but I’m stuck pulling my engine and need tips anything your struggled with?
Geeze, what luck I'm having. I just yesterday purchased a 2010 Outback 2.5i with a few known problems, one of which is a bad clutch and - Voila! There's a video on removal of the engine from a 2010 Outback 2.5i. Thanks for posting this, my brother. This car also needs a new front CV axle shaft (and you had a video!) and will need a timing belt/water pump replacement (and, again, you had a video).
This is an automotive fantasy-- working on a car with barely any rust!!! WOOOW😲
Seems like these 5th gens hold up well! I'm doing a torque converter on my '11 legacy and it is a refreshing change having it rust free up here in MN.
My 09 looks brand new under the hood. It's spend it's entire life in dry southern California. Mostly in a garage.
What you’ve done is allowed schmucks like me with scant resources, but some decent mechanical skills, to perform this procedure and others which otherwise would have killed my finances. You’re a good dude. Thanks you.
Just wanted to say you make great videos. Even know i now despise my outback, your videos make the repairs that much easier. Thanks !
Thank you so much for this. My throw out bearing was absolutely trashed on my 2011 25.i 6- speed. I've always wanted to pull an engine myself and as a first timer, I could not have done it without this video. The car is all buttoned up and back together and my clutch engagement is perfect again! Took me about a week working on it here and there. Thank you so much for making this video!
Very good video
The mechanic is a skilled guy
Thanks
Thanks for making real start to finish videos. I was having an issue that was easy to resolve from this video. Great stuff.
This was really helpful to me - watched it twice before pulling the engine on my 2012 Outback. Got it out - no issues, gonna replace head gaskets. BUT WHERE IS THE ENGINE REINSTALL VIDEO YOU MENTIONED ???????? Want to watch that as well !
Thanks so much. Just about to do an engine swap in an Outback. So very helpful!
Iinteresting to see a newer model, mine engine outs have been 01 impreza RS, a 99 legacy outback, a 02 WRX, and the 01 and 03 Foresters are next....that DOHC sitting on the stand, when you look at the complexity of the netal casting of the engine design, the shape and passage ways, IDK, I'm odd, I like looking at it thinking how cool it is.And all the work that went into making it.
Thank you for this. I hope my engine removal goes this smooth.
Love the tip about going under intake to do convertor bolts, never been able to do that before. I probably would have removed throttle body.
That was a lot of work but I understood everything thanks a lot.
My first car (when i was 16) was an '81 chevette, 2 door, with i think a 1.2L 4cyl, 4spd....
Cost me $100 in 1992
My dad and i had to work on it pretty much every weekend to keep it running....
When the starter went, i learned to park facing down hills...
When the clutch cable went, i learned to shift without the clutch
Thank christ i didn't have a modern car!
All this to replace a torque converter.... yikes....
This isn't that bad for an AWD, Some cars I can't even touch the backside of the hvac pump. In my last car I had to remove a motor mount buried under a filter box and then just jack the aluminum oil pan I may add up a bit to just get the alternator out of the car and disconnect the top part of the radiator to get it out of the way enough. fun times.
@@kartboarder22g17 and what was the brand name and model of that car?
@@NemudusM Saturn Vue.
@@kartboarder22g17 Honda Engine 3.0 or 3.5? they can be painful lol
@@kartboarder22g17 before my 16 OB i had a 4cyl vue, not AWD....
The guy talking in the background dropping some financial knowledge on who ever he’s chatting with 😂 …… other than that ….i swapped out engines last week… I learned my way around a subi real quick lol especially the torque converter .. it’s not that bad always never forget that lil clip and sleeve … your golden after that
Im loving that I have to do this just to replace the dang steering rack, I mean I could drop the subframe but A. that's almost the same amount of work, with more parts that I wont bring myself to reassemble without replacing, and B. I also need to do the front crank seal and timing belt which I could do in the car but would be easier out of it, all things considered I've decided I'm taking the motor out tomorrow lol
Wow that radiator is dirty. Its exactly why i took mine out to give it a good deep clean
Such detail. Thoroughly enjoying. Thank you.
Hood strut service mounts engaged captain
Thank you brother, I needed this video. I'll still cuss while taking it out, but that's just out of habit.
Hi, I have a 2011 legacy, pulling the engine. Does the Legacy have the same nut/bolt side mounts? I'm not seeing what you have in your video for the nut and bolt, I'm gonna take a break, maybe I'll see it when a start again. Thanks
Never mind, I figured out I shouldn't watch any other videos than yours. As I was removing the lower housing nut and bolt, well let's just say a had an epiphany and realized what I was doing. thanks for all your work on these videos.
Really great walk-through on this removal. The biggest hassle was probably the A/C compressor that was hard to keep out of the way during hoist. You need an assistant or an A/C removal and re-charge. One question: Did your cordless ratchet run out of juice, or do you just like the feel of twisting the ratchet for removal? Hey, some do. Thanks again.
thank you so much; now i am going to go do this to my engine; ;)
how did it come out ? take pictures and label with tape !! it helps on reassembly....use subaru only oil filters and thermostats...
Wow I wish New York car exhaust look like that
Great Video! Going through this process on my 2011 outback. Having problems separating engine from trans I didn't see any mention of engine mounts other than the front one. Before I start trying to pry them apart wanted to make sure I'm not missing something. Thanks
check for something still connected....SOB ! it's not coming apart, found a bolt still conected...I used a metal putty knife and penetrating oil to start seperating those. First time, I pulled both engine and trans as a unit... those flywheel bolts (automatic) also got me...good luck
its nice you can do most of the work from the top
Great video. Thank you so much for making this.
Watching this relaxes me.
And it makes me anxious!
Great vid. Let us know how those icon tools hold up. 👍🏾
Awesome man this will help me one day fo sure.
Glad I could help
26:30 main electrical harness disconnect, thank you!
Installation... Torque specs for bolts would be helpful. unless you have that video up on reinstall?
Great video! Thank you for posting this. My son and I are replacing the engine in a 2010 Outback 2.5i 6-speed with an engine from a 2012 2.5 automatic. Seller says there is a difference between engines and won't include warranty. Can you tell me what the difference is?
Did you ever do the swap? How did it go?
MrSubaru1387, thanks for the vid!! im working on a 07 Outback, engine needs to be removed and taken apart. since the engine is seized, how do I turn the crank to remove the torque converter mounting bolts?? what can I do??
If you can't free up the crank with a long cheater pipe, pull the engine and trans as one piece and then break down the engine.
Awsome video as always, are you using the snap on tools or the HF Icon?
A mix. Mostly ICON when I can.
Good time to do spark plugs while its out haha
Boy, you're not kidding. Plugs, tube seals and valve cover gaskets.
Subaru easiest and most reliable engines ever
Thanks for making this. Any big differences between this 2010 outback and a 2010 Forester?
Great video! Did you say there will be a second part for re-installation? Thanks man!
2010 OB 6 spd…having difficulty separating engine from transmission. All 8 bolts joining the block and bell housing have been removed as well as front motor mount. Cant get it to budge at all. No doubt the salted roads of MN winters makes things seize together some…but ive tried rocking on front end of motor till entire car wobbles and still not even a crack of separation! Any tricks or suggestions? Does lifting up on the transmission help? or lifting in combination with loosening the front trans mounts a little?
This video was super helpful thank you very much ! Mine was quite stuck, but after a few hours of swearing, prying and wiggling I finally got her free. You have mentioned before about using the Turbo Gaskets vs the Original design, even over the later MLS ( which I had fail on my 2012 with 148k miles on it ). However what is the part number of those gaskets ? You mentioned I think it was the gasket for the EJ257 ? or if someone else can chime in that would be super helpful, I keep looking at forum posts but im unsure.
I just watched @MrSubaru1387 's HG videos and was thinking it was the Subaru OE MLS gaskets he recommended. Following...I'm testing in a few mins on my '12 legacy CVT, and likely have HG issues here @ 170k.
The neat part is if you play this video in reverse it’s how to install an engine
Nice job, thanks for sharing!
You made that lower starter nut look way too easy.
Great content, Mr. Subaru. In the manual, it says I need to use a special stopper tool to lock the torque converter in place (ST 498277200 STOPPER SET). What's the purpose of this tool, and is it absolutely necessary? Thank you!
Keeps it from pulling out with the engine. Definitely not required. Just take the time to make sure it's staying in the transmission.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thank you so much!
@@MrSubaru1387 While I have the motor out, I plan to replace the radiator, timing belt, water pump, rear main seal, valve cover gaskets, and spark plug tube seals. Outside of those items, anything you would recommend replacing while it's all accessible? What about the front engine crankshaft seal?
@@not2shabbyaggie you're probably done w/ your job, but in case you're not or for others, I'd definitely recommend that front crank seal and the oil pump as well since I had to replace oil pump @ ~ 130k recently when it failed. You didn't share your mileage or vehicle history so not sure if the cam seals would be apt to go soon as well, but I'd replace them while in there so all the timing belt area is done for a while.
Was wondering if you could give more detail on the bolts removed at 11:11? I am working on a 2012 outback and i am struggling to see which ones youre referring to, thanks
How did you remove the engine with only removing the front engine mount? Did I miss this step in the video? Aren’t there a couple in the back?
Thanks brother for your help 🙏
Nice clean job.
Did you have to add trans fluid after ? I changed my engine using this video it was great but I have transmission issues now it won’t even drive it started up and drive fine at first.
That is the preferred way to replace the torque converter
Great job on your detailed engine removal.
Do you prefer to do everything by hand tools Instead of using power tools for the whole removal process?
Just wanted to know if it's not to damage anything or it's just the way you feel comfortable doing it.
Only used hand tools because I'm testing the new HF ICON tool brand. Normally it's 90% power tools.
@@MrSubaru1387 that's right I forgot that. My apologizes, outstanding performance with just hand tools I never figured it can be done by just hand tools.
In one of your past videos you said that you had interviewed for a dealership and they turned you down because of your video posting. This present video is proof that they lost valuable auto motive tech.
👍👍👍👍👍👍
I am replacing my engine in my 2001 outback but it should be the same right, or similar enough
Hey there. I'm following this by the letter and I'm ready to pull the engine, but I've got one problem. At the beginning of the video you state there are two 14mm nuts to pull from the bell housing from underneath. Then later you reference two 14mm bolts and two 14mm nuts just over the half shaft on either side up front. Are the two 14mm from the beginning of the video the same as those metioned later? The engine doesn't wanna let go of the transmission and I'm thinking I missed something. Thanks for a greatly detailed video!
How’d it go
Amazing work
How do you get the bolts to line back up in the torque converter when you put the engine back in?
Would it of been easier to remove the engine and transmission as one?
Any tips on getting the engine to separate from the bell housing? I’m doing this job on my 2012 outback. I’ve got all 6 bolts and 2 nuts out, ready to pull the engine but it won’t disconnect. When I bring it up, it’s bringing the transmission with it and bending the rear mounting point.
Thin flathead screwdriver that you aren't afraid to destroy. Hammer it in at the crack until you can get a prybar in the gap. Have to be careful so you don't crack the aluminum engine block or trans bellhousing.
I appreciate the reply!! I’ve since gotten it out.. had my father help and we used a long piece of 2x4 and hammered it lightly around the crack and also where the power steering pump sat (plenty of space there)..new torque converter/seal/o-ring, and got it back in. All running great! Just need to drain and refill CVT with new fluid. You saved me hundreds, potentially thousands in labor costs. Can’t thank you enough!
Thank you for posting this, perfect timing... lol
Anyone find the installation video?
Thanks 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻 you the best .
What the heck did you use in the 14 mm nut by the cv axle? Can't get to mine to save my life
I had same issue - both driver and passenger side. I was finally able to break them loose from beneath the car using my old Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar with pivoting head and a standard height 14mm socket. I had previously tried universal joints and extensions - but no way it would all fit and stay in place when I applied torque to break loose the nuts.
Looks like Subaru should be galvanizing their sub-frames.
Is it possible to remove the engine through the bottom if you don’t have a hoist
This may a dumb question, can you fit a 2013+ in a 2011 legacy
quick question, i am about to purchase and new engine, i have a 2010 forester EJ25 but my intake system in cast aluminum with a EGR, now I searched ebay motors and all but a few have the cast intake, could i use one with a plastic intake like in the video or no.
Why did you Ratcheted out everything, where are your air tools or battery powered ones? I couldn't work at that pace, ever.
Testing the ICON tools.
is this engine compatible with a 2008 subaru forester? is the block compatible?
How similar is this process for a 2000 Outback?
hello how are you, I have a situation with my 2010 subaru legacy and I have a couple of codes so you can help me, I have a code p0890 and I don't know where that relay is and the other problem is that the fans turn off and on when I have the switch on ON position but not running the engine and when the engine is running these fans do not work
I just bought a 2011 Subaru Legacy with 190k miles perfect condition also how many miles could I get out of it ?
450,000
Can you confirm there are no other engine mounts other than the front one by the radiator for the 2011 Outback2.5i EJ25? I've removed all bell housing bolts/nuts (6 and 2) and it won't budge. Suggestions? Also the manual states to support the transmission with a jack but doesn't state where. CVT pan doesn't seem like a great option.
Did you get this figured out? I’m in the exact same spot right now.
Yeah, I finally figured it out. The only engine mount is the one by the from bumper, at front of engine. The serv8ce manual drawings are horrible.@@tomr.4112
@tomr.4112 There's only a single mount at front of engine.
What type of hoist is that? Do you recommend it?
A Torrin BigRed
hi, why did you remove engine for a T.Q. replacement? isnt easier to drop the transmission assembly?
No.
Is this the time to reseal or replace the oil separator plate? Looks like mine is leaking a little. It's right behind the flywheel, correct?
Yes. That and a new rear main seal while out.
How long does that take you and what's the book time? thanks
I was wondering the same thing
How the torque converter go bad. Is there any metal pieces or "pixel dust" you saw in the fluid.
There's a TSB on it. Common failure.
This generation of Subaru CVTs has a bearing that fails - if you have the AC on and do a very quick stop sometimes it will kill the engine because the torque converter doesn't disengage properly. My 2013 legacy is starting to do it but the dealer won't replace it yet because the engine doesn't die. They extended the warranty, which is great, but only if it gets bad enough they'll replace it I guess
Similar experience as @@benjaminboyer39 ...I went in for my 12 legacy prior to end of warranty b/c of (near) stalling. I think it did stall a time or two, but not often. I expressed concern and they blew me off saying it's all good. Had it documented. Now I'm ~ 3 yrs later and at ~ 140k and it's progressed to stalling at stops. My experience has been that Subaru customer service about this has been a complete unscrupulous mess. They ignore you and don't want to accept any responsibility now, or back then.
That's what I was afraid of, prompted me to sell the Legacy at 91kish miles so it wouldn't be my problem. Got a Fiesta ST instead and have loved it. Unfortunately traded a torque converter problem for a leaking head gasket apparently.
The ford dealer also sucks and doesn't want to fix it so it's not just Subaru I guess
Does the engine on this car the same one on the 2010 subaru legacy 2.5
Yes. EJ253.
My '10 impreza has a separate AC belt
Hi, just wondering would it be possible to pull the motor and the transmission out together on these outback/legacy bodies?
I suppose, but why would you want to/need to?
Would this be the same as a 2010 legacy 2.5 gt?
Question...to R and R the heads do you recommend pulling the engine??
Yes
If you could do ee20z engine removal :)
2015 outback with a 2.5 44,650 mlles. anything of concerns for this year and model?
What block is it ? the next gen after EJ engine, FJ ?? some have oil consumption issues, teh CVT can bee problematic and insanely expensive to repair..friend had one that just died after the warranty, I think he said it would have been a 7 or 9K dollar repair, they covered most of it..... bit scary being in the dealership service area and engines getting worked on in almost every bay (pre covid)....
Mr. Subaru I’m curious do you know who makes the 4speed automatic transmission in my 2010 Forester jatco or Subaru?
JATCO designed the 4EAT and 5EAT.
MrSubaru1387 oh ok thank you
u should have secured the a.c. com. close to fender. maybe run strap from strut somehow.
naomba nafasi kwako natamani kuwa fundi kama wewe bado uwezo wangu ni mdogo Mimi ni fundi
MrSubaru1387, at ~10:50 in the video, you state Rear Differential, but don't you mean the front drive differential?
Yes. Front diff.
Do you know how similar this would be for the 2012 legacy 2.5 Non turbo?
It's the same.
Mr Subaru, would the 3.6r engine work with the manual transmission from the 2.5i?
Did it work for the 2.5i?
Glad I didn’t have to do it.
How to get the engine unstuck from trans
i have a 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5 when i accelerate from a stop my car jerks/bucks like i'm being rear ended what do you think would cause that to happen
clean your throttle body. he has good video on it
no need to hit the dowel pins with an air hammer like the older setups?
He doesn't live in the rust belt
@@cheesecurd100s when I did this job, there was no real angle to hit those dowels like the older style subarus with different mounting setup. i had to seperate with a pry bar and work through the dowels. PITA. I live in the rust/salt belt.
Yeah i found the best method for me anyway was a screw driver I sharpened and then hammer in-between engine transmission right where the dowel is. Pry bars i have are too steep of an angle
@MrSubaru1387 what's the difference in the engine removal process between this and the manual transmission car? Would it be ready to drop when the bell housing bolts are out?
Working on pulling an engine from the 2012 manual legacy at the moment, this video is best I could find, yet it's for an auto...
@@aut0h0lic Hi George, how different was the manual compared to this video?? Starting on that project myself...
The flywheel bolts aren't standard 12mm on the manual transmission, they are like a star pattern, and there's a lot of them, maybe 8, and not as easy to get to. I'm going tool shopping tomorrow. Anyone complete this with a manual transmission? Also, I didn't find a bellhousing bolt behind the starter.
are these difficult to manual swap?
Apparently it's very tough. There a lot of other excess little things that add up. I've thought out swapping my 2011 to put in an ej257 instead of the 253, but it's a lot of money and work apparantly.
Is this a recall ???? Or free replacement
Neither. Just a TSB and you pay to fix.
I know you have to look at it to tell but we recently had our motor replaced in a Subaru Outback 2011 2.5. Not even an hour on the road it shut off from overheating. Turns out the sob who installed it cracked our radiator so we replaced that. Drove it not 2 miles down the road to get coolant and now it won’t turn on at all. First the installer swears he took the motor out from the bottom and didn’t bust the radiator but now he is Mia and won’t pick up the phone. What could it possibly be??? Please help anyone!!!
Subaru engines can't be removed from the bottom...
@@MrSubaru1387 yup that’s what I thought. He said he has been doing this for 27 years. Can you believe this. If you had to guess what could it possibly be??
@@cassandraparadis1401 a blown head gasket or fried the engine depending on how hot it got and if there was even any coolant in it.
@@MrSubaru1387 there was a little bit of coolant still in there we drove it not 2 minutes down the road to top it off. We didn’t let it get to hot though. When we saw the crack we replaced it right away and left it where it was. That is what I was afraid of. 😫
@@MrSubaru1387 it cranked up and never got hot after we replaced the radiator.
🙏🏼
Ej motor or the FB motor??
EJ253
Are there any difference in removing a FB engine vs a Ej engine in the 2010-2014 Subaru Outback?
@@3521Rookie slightly different, but basically the same.
MrSubaru1387 good to know. Is there any manual a Custmor/car owner can buy that the techs use like all the torque specs?
@@3521Rookie jdmfsm.info
Uh oh, looks like I have a blown head gasket on my 06 Forester... Here we go...
😔 😔 💔