You are quite a "metal mover" sir. Back in the 60's, I worked for United Airlines as a sheetmetal/structural repair mech at the maintenance center at S. San Francisco air port. Of course, I was working with aluminum and you're doing it with steel. Anyways, we worked with mostly flat sheet and did a lot of angle bending and used rivets instead of welding. I'm thinking your work is a lot more difficult than working with aluminum. Love watching you do your work. You know what you're doing!
Nice job. I'm working on a 1928 Sports Coupe. This helps with the motivation. Looking forward to the rear panels mine is not as rough as yours. However it's always nice to see some working in a step by step video of the same car as yours.
Awesome video series on the Model “A”, your talents and experience shine through! Have you ever tried silicon bronze filler wire? The stuff works great! I’ve used it a lot for filling small pits and rust holes. It finishes nice and filler and paint stick to it, unlike the old oxy/ acetylene brazing. Thanks again for sharing your journey with us. Wishing you and yours a very merry Christmas and the happiest new year!
When you reassemble, could you slo mo putting which bolts are used for front fenders /body through. I removed all my fenders and raised body. Fell I’ll for a few years. Intended to reassemble right away and did not sort the bolts correctly. Now my memory of which bolts go where is keeping me from putting my A back together. Thanks.
Awesome thanks for sharing your project with us ya got this for me now ya made it worth giving it go mine got same problem wondering what ya use to weld it on no gas or gas causes ya made it work glad l joined l,m learning lots not much for bending tools but will give it ago later keep it up from Canada 🇨🇦 Sk 😊
It seems like you could have used your brake (machine) to make all three brakes in those patches...but I'm not familiar with your brake. If you started out with the bottom brake (fold), then did each of the end brakes (folds) using the very end of your brake (machine), the lower brake (fold) would go up inside the end gap on your brake (machine). Hope that helps. I am about to do the exact same stuff to the exact same make/model doors. I started out making some videos on here, but got wrapped up in the work and got WAY behind on videos. That channel is called Troublemaker Customs. The car is a 28/29 Tudor. Thanks for posting this and good luck with the rest of it.
watched this video closely, first whats the gauge of the 2x1 you used for subrails, and 2' whats the grit number for your flapper wheels? is it around 80 or less
For this one I used 14ga wall 1 1/2 x 1 square tube and I run plantex 40 grit flap discs for everything in the shop. On bigger cars where weight doesn't matter I sometimes run 1/8" wall on the framing. 👍
@@rottersgarage these are the best tutorial vids on an a- bone ford ive seen,i am probably going to do the same on my floor now !!versus the stock sub-assmebly of the howells catalog,
I run .030 wire for everything. Sheet metal I usually run at 19 volts on the millermatic I have, which is actually a little hot, but I run the wire a little on the fast side. Sometimes I'll drop down to 16 for really thin metal... Wire speed usually around 30 on my machine....
Any time there is a crack, or even a new piece of sheet metal going in, it is best to have a gap to fill with the weld. this allows the weld to penetrate through the gap and fill it. That way when you grind it off there is still plenty of weld between the pieces with a bit off bleed through on the back side for strength. Basically it allows for flush grinding of the weld without removing all of the weld. Also on a crack in sheet metal and more importantly aluminum, it is also a good idea to drill a hole at the end of the crack and fill it with weld as well, this ensures the crack will not keep spreading even after welding. Short answer, its for strength....
Still sitting on the engine stand from the tear down.... My engine builder and I have a plan, just trying to scrounge up some parts and mostly cash to get it going, lol. Could build three nice small block Chevys for what it's going to take to do this one, but it will be worth it when it's done. 👍
I never tire of watching someone who knows what they're doing ply their craft. Looking good!
Watching a once forgoten peace of autamotive history come to the light again
You saved that car’s life
Great! Go on. We're happy to watch you working.
Your work on this car brought me to your channel.
It's hard to believe that car was yard art. Your doing great work Ben. I hope you and your family have a wonderful Christmas ⛄🎄
Anxious to see the finished ford
Awesome teacher. Gilbert
Great work. Glad to see this episode. Looking forward to the next.
Excellent job Ben ,Thanks for sharing your videos.
I like the way you work! Great job!
Great job! Thank you for sharing
So i found 2022 most under rated Chanel.. new subscriber here, keep up the awesome work!
Cheers from Sweden!
Majestic! 🤌🏻🤌🏻🤌🏻👏🏼
You are quite a "metal mover" sir. Back in the 60's, I worked for United Airlines as a sheetmetal/structural repair mech at the maintenance center at S. San Francisco air port. Of course, I was working with aluminum and you're doing it with steel. Anyways, we worked with mostly flat sheet and did a lot of angle bending and used rivets instead of welding. I'm thinking your work is a lot more difficult than working with aluminum. Love watching you do your work. You know what you're doing!
Great stuff and Merry Christmas.
Keep it up dude.
Merry Christmas Ben! The model A looks great!
Fine piece of carrying on! Get me motivated to start my 5 window coupe real soon.
nice man, cant wait for the next one
I really like it when the notification bell dings and there's a new Rotter's Garage. Great series with the old gal.
This is just beautiful hand crafted work. Love it !
True craftsmanship! Nice work man!
Greetings from Poland .Man this is a massive ton of a work you put on a almost 100 year old car ;O
Can't wait till this thing is finished! Personally I would love to see it painted glossy brown with black, silver, and just a hint of orange accents.
Nice job on fixing that door! Lot of work went into that one. Good to see that car taking shape. Nice job!
A work of art ….
Looking good👍 Have a Merry Christmas and stay blessed...
Excellent job, You deserve more subscribers! (Greetings from Hungary)
Amazing job
Can't wait for your next video on this restoration, it's a super job,great knowledge and great skills 👌
You do great work, gonna be a nice ride. Glad I found your channel.
Nice work !!
Educational, entertaining, inspirational!
Very nice. I had to do my 30 truck that way.
Awesome vids. Know nothing about cars/welding/restoration but I do now, thanks!
That come up good
amazing work so far, I cant wait for the next video!
Nice work. Merry Christmas!
Nice job. I'm working on a 1928 Sports Coupe. This helps with the motivation. Looking forward to the rear panels mine is not as rough as yours. However it's always nice to see some working in a step by step video of the same car as yours.
The amount of work put in that one door is insane. I wonder if it almost be the same time to rebuild this door from zero.
ENJOYED YOUR VIDEO INTERESTING
Muy buen trabajo, se ven muy bien las puertas. Saludos desde España.
Awesome video series on the Model “A”, your talents and experience shine through! Have you ever tried silicon bronze filler wire? The stuff works great! I’ve used it a lot for filling small pits and rust holes. It finishes nice and filler and paint stick to it, unlike the old oxy/ acetylene brazing.
Thanks again for sharing your journey with us.
Wishing you and yours a very merry Christmas and the happiest new year!
the time you will finish this projeckt You will have at least 200k subs. keep it up ! great work !
When you reassemble, could you slo mo putting which bolts are used for front fenders /body through. I removed all my fenders and raised body. Fell I’ll for a few years. Intended to reassemble right away and did not sort the bolts correctly. Now my memory of which bolts go where is keeping me from putting my A back together. Thanks.
We trust you are well and will have new content for us.
Very soon, it's been a busy winter.... Quarter panel patching and tail pan video next, almost finished up with it!
Awesome thanks for sharing your project with us ya got this for me now ya made it worth giving it go mine got same problem wondering what ya use to weld it on no gas or gas causes ya made it work glad l joined l,m learning lots not much for bending tools but will give it ago later keep it up from Canada 🇨🇦 Sk 😊
You’re a good welder
Love the videos merry christmas
It seems like you could have used your brake (machine) to make all three brakes in those patches...but I'm not familiar with your brake. If you started out with the bottom brake (fold), then did each of the end brakes (folds) using the very end of your brake (machine), the lower brake (fold) would go up inside the end gap on your brake (machine). Hope that helps. I am about to do the exact same stuff to the exact same make/model doors. I started out making some videos on here, but got wrapped up in the work and got WAY behind on videos. That channel is called Troublemaker Customs. The car is a 28/29 Tudor. Thanks for posting this and good luck with the rest of it.
Awesome!🤓👍
Excelente
Have you ever tried to braze with a coat hanger
watched this video closely, first whats the gauge of the 2x1 you used for subrails, and 2' whats the grit number for your flapper wheels? is it around 80 or less
For this one I used 14ga wall 1 1/2 x 1 square tube and I run plantex 40 grit flap discs for everything in the shop. On bigger cars where weight doesn't matter I sometimes run 1/8" wall on the framing. 👍
I actually thought this was the floor framing video you responded to, flap discs are 40 grit like I said, all sheet metal is 18 ga on body patching.
@@rottersgarage these are the best tutorial vids on an a- bone ford ive seen,i am probably going to do the same on my floor now !!versus the stock sub-assmebly of the howells catalog,
What wire are you running a soild core or flux core
Awesome job! What are your setting and wire gauge? I always have difficulty welding thin gauge.
I run .030 wire for everything. Sheet metal I usually run at 19 volts on the millermatic I have, which is actually a little hot, but I run the wire a little on the fast side. Sometimes I'll drop down to 16 for really thin metal... Wire speed usually around 30 on my machine....
Loving this. 7:27, why cut then weld? Why not just weld, straight out of curiosity and that I may be missing out on something big!
Any time there is a crack, or even a new piece of sheet metal going in, it is best to have a gap to fill with the weld. this allows the weld to penetrate through the gap and fill it. That way when you grind it off there is still plenty of weld between the pieces with a bit off bleed through on the back side for strength. Basically it allows for flush grinding of the weld without removing all of the weld. Also on a crack in sheet metal and more importantly aluminum, it is also a good idea to drill a hole at the end of the crack and fill it with weld as well, this ensures the crack will not keep spreading even after welding. Short answer, its for strength....
I am pretty sure you could rebuild the titanic. I did not know this kind of work could be done.
🤟
Know you are a busy man but how is the engine doing?
Still sitting on the engine stand from the tear down.... My engine builder and I have a plan, just trying to scrounge up some parts and mostly cash to get it going, lol. Could build three nice small block Chevys for what it's going to take to do this one, but it will be worth it when it's done. 👍
@@rottersgarage thanks for the update and have a merry Christmas
Dude what the hell, if I didn't come looking for updates on this project, I would not know what's going on! YT is really getting on my nerves!
Can you make a Playlist because I don't find the next movie. Thanks
There is a playlist up to part 8 in Rotters Garage playlists. 👍
For the love of God please change the music 😂