I bought a 1930 Ford Model A fairly recently. The chassis has been refurbished and the engine has been rebuilt but never run. It's quite the project and I'm fully willing to tackle it and bring the old girl back to her glory days. She came with 2 sets of four fenders (2 front, 2 rear), a set of splash aprons, bumpers for a town sedan, half a front bumper, a headlight holder and like four headlights, and an extra (Gemmer) steering column complete with wheel and levers. She's even got new tyres! Still needs the rest of the distributor, some hoses, and some wiring stuff but otherwise its all there. The cowl is off a 1926 Model T Roadster Pickup(?). She had a pickup box but that was sold. This video helped me figure out that apparently the gas tank is also your dashboard. Re-constructing my A will be quite the adventure, yes indeedy! and I hope to have her back on the road soon. On the back of the engine, there's some lever thingy with a button-lookin' thing on it. what is it for? is it a clutch? accelerator pedal? brake? Please let me know!
Just bought a 31 Sport Coupe for my Dad and pulled the tank for cleaning. Sat for 10yrs and had about 1/4” thick molasses/crust nastiness throughout. Got my pressure washer in there to blast at it, and used the pellet trick to get in hidden baffle areas. Keep shaking and rinsing and rinsing. Eventually crud came out. 5hrs of fun. One tip for evacuating the pellets: Use a heater hose about 18” long, duct taped to the end of a shop vac hose and suck ‘em out. We pulled them via the fuel gauge hole and had my son shine a flashlight into the fuel filler hole. Made quick work of that. Thanks for your videos! They are super helpful. Been restoring Mustangs for 35yrs but this A has its own learning curve. Your videos are making it fun to learn.
Thank you Paul and Model T for all of your hard work in cleaning out that gas tank in order to make this video. Steve Schmauch (pronounced 'Sch...Mock' as in Mocking Bird) is a longtime friend of mine (since 1978) and he is a fellow MAFCA Chapter member. Steve is so helpful and knowledgeable, we are blessed to have him in our club as a Model A resource and good friend.
It's been a long time since I had to clean a fuel tank, of course the ones that I cleaned were not to a Model A. I never used the pellets, that's a good pointer, thanks. You and Model T got a good workout with that gas tank shaking, and did Jack Bahm and his crew give that one a good thrashing. Great video, thanks for sharing, hope y'all have a great weekend.
Thanks Paul and Tina - another great video! As I was cleaning my ‘31 A tank, I decided to extend to fuel line to sediment bowl about an inch up into the tank so any crud left in the tank would stay on the bottom and not be able to fall down into the line. Yes, it reduced the available gas capacity because some would always stay in the tank, but after ten years on the road, I’ve never had any clogging issues.
I saw a farmer strap a fuel tank to a tractor tire, jack up the back tires, crank the motor, let the tank twirl on the tire about half a day. Your way looks much easier. We always stop at the gas station after a drive to keep the tank full. Thanks for another great video.
Never knew how to do this. Looks easy and exhausting hehe. I'm looking for my dream home... actually a home with my dream garage. Super excited to have room for my first Model A!
Thanks for the video. A couple things I did to help. First, I used a 4 wheel dolly and strapped it down with a ratchet strap. Second, and I think the best trick, is I used BBs and pellets with copper coated, steel BBs in the tips. Gamo Rocket pellets. Then I was able to use a magnetic wand to retrieve the pellets and BBs easier than just shaking then out.
Paul, after see this video, you mentioned the best way to keep your gas tank free of rust. I think a way of doing this is to keep fuel in it. As much as permitted.
Thanks for your informative videos! This is a common problem that has prevented many A's from being driven as the seasons pass. I am going to use your method and try to get a 29 roadster that is a 30 year old restoration, back up to reliable function for it's aging owner.
Thanks for giving me your thoughts. My rear fenders are new and have no holes for the tail lamp brackets. I got rid of my old fenders years ago. I guess I should have measured the old fenders before I got rid of them.
On my motorcycles I use muriatic acid, works very well. When its done, drain, add baking soda and water, rinse then add some 90% alcohol to absorb any remaining water. Drainand use a shop vac to blow dry, pour in some two-cycle premix and slosh it around to prevent flash rust. Well, that's what works for me and I don't have chemical restrictions.
I had to clean my gas tank in my 29 Tudor. I took it out after several soaks with non-california mineral spirits. That was not enough. I ended up using a solution of about a cup of lye in 5 gallons of water. I let it soak for a few minutes while using agitation and rolling the tank around and upside down. I rinsed it well and let it dry some. Then I used a metal prep solution and then a sealer kit to do the inside of the tank. Since I am still working on the rest of the car, I can't report on the durability of the sealer, the inside of the tank is clean and sealed against rust.
Thannnnnnks for another awesome idea.Now it makes me wonder if my 28 needs the same.2 videos in the same day from the Shinns. Saw model t on 20 million th ford earlier Can't go wrong with Paul and Tini videos.Thx D.J.
I use lots of rough pebbles, sand, dish soap, and hot water in a steel tank. For aluminum tanks, I slosh stainless steel wool with a shallow pool of dish soapwater.
The shoving of the tank on the cart back and forth reminds me of the old "Jiffy Pop" popcorn method of popping. Get your Jiffy Pop container on a hot stove iron and start pushing back and forth... back and forth. Pretty soon you start hearing the corn popping and ur almost done.
Thank You, Thank You, Thank You. I recently bought a 28 ffour door Biggs. It appears to be in pretty good shape. Zero Rust that I can find. Far as I cab tell is it needs a paint job.
Cleaned my tank in several steps. Removed gas shut off and floorboards to drain. Cardboard to direct flow. Used 1 gallon each of Purple Cleaner, driveway cleaner (sodium hydroxide) and then oxalic acid. Top off tank each time and shake, let sit for a day. Lots of rinsing in between chemicals. Used a small hose to jet out tank. A little oil added to the rinse water to leave a residue behind. Did not use muriatic acid as it etches the metal. All cleaners biodegradable, safe on paint and safe to dispose of down drain. Wear goggles and long rubber gloves.
Great video, neet way to get all corners clean, guess pull tank on my 27 an try this,previous owner had steamed an cleaned they said,not a good job,thanks again 😀
I just wished that I had watched this a long time ago. I didn't remove the tank (paint job was perfect and I didn't want to scratch it up) I used a water base material to dissolve rust. It worked so so. Thanks again for a great video. + I got to see Tina do the shake!!! ❤ how long a time span to remove tank???
Paul …. I think there is an easier way to clean out those gas tanks… I just looked on TH-cam and found some videos of “ motorcycle gas tank Tumblr rotisseries “ .. you guys could make one of these rotisseries for the model a gas tanks… I would consider the correct media it’s like little stones kind of diamond shaped … that would be an awesome tool for you and the guys in the model a club !
Whoa. It's much easier to use pebbles, sand, dish soap, and hot water. I've done a number of steel tanks and aluminum tanks. You can roll and shake them on a lawn, and sometimes over your sink.
Shake, rattle and roll! Doing the procedure in-car would probably a great way to get rid of squeaky springs... I'm sure they were shining bright after that xD
Fine. As long as it isn't open, just leave it be. When it's time to empty the lead and last bit of fluid, the mineral spirits should have helped act like a thread release and make it easier to remove.
Had mine rusty gunky fueltank from the 29 Roadster handed over to a company speciallized in paintstripping and rustremoving by acid dipping. Then after throughly flushing and cleaning it has been passivated to prevent further rusting. It of course needed a complete new paintjob after that treatment. I had it done that way because of being a lazy slacker myself, anyway wanting a perfect result and also wanted to keep the nasty chemical mess going along with that process as far away as possible from my house.
That is the ultimate way to go if you are going to be painting the whole car anyway, and you have extra $$, and your state allows that. I live in Commiefornia and we don't get cool stuff like that anymore. We don't even get real mineral spirits anymore.
Great video! very informative, have you ever used a tank sealer like POR 15 or red coat? I'd like to know your opinion about how well they work. I have also heard of some people using white vinegar and rocks to clean out their tanks. Vinegar is acidic and the MSDS for Stoddard's solvent or mineral spirits states there is no data available. Thanks again for all your fantastic information.
Some '70s disco would have been a nice addition to the scene. Shake, shake, shake your bootie! Oops! Shake your fuel tank. Great stuff Paul. PS I like the Sponge Bob stuff!
Do you have a recommendation for shock oil/fluid besides the high priced stuff in the catalogs? Is there a procedure for installing it other than just pour it in?
Paul, I purchased my first Model A recently after watching your channel. I bought a 29 Cabriolet and I have to pull the fuel tank as it’s weeping (not dripping yet) from one of the top rivets of the steering column support bracket. There is also some rust in the tank kind of like the one you just cleaned. My plan is to remove it and take it to a professional radiator shop here to have it cleaned and have the leak area repaired and pressure tested then repainted. I have two questions: 1) I cannot see any body divides on the cowl area where the tank lifts out like 28’s and 29’s (my understanding so far is that the 29 Cabriolet model was the fore runner for the 30 cowl design change. How does this tank come out? There appears to be a small body gap between the brass threaded filler neck and the top of the cowl - does the tank come out while leaving the top painted part of the cowl on the car? 2) Why do you not agree with sealing a tank after it’s been cleaned?
Good job! The 29 fuel tank is separate from the body. A 30/31 fuel tank top is also the top of the cowl. On a 29, the top of the cowl is not the top of the tank. So, you have a little more disassembly to do. See all those bolts under the hood along the firewall? Those come out too. Why don't I like epoxy tank sealer? It always ends up in the carb! It slowly lets go and flows down into the carb and ends up clogging the jets.
Paul and Tina, very good. Is the inside of the tank then treated with a coating? Or a further process? Is there a way for to keep the tank from rusting again?
Hey DM! Where have you been hiding? Inside of tank not treated. If you keep it pretty full, it won't rust. If you are going to store the car, drain it and fog it. Fogging oil like they use in motors works fine.
@@ModelA Paul, thanks for answering. I haven't had time for all the videos, but I generally will catch up. That's why sometimes I comment a while after they were released.
Thanks, Paul and Tina. I am fortunate that my 29 tank is in comparatively great shape. I will file this away for future reference as some day I will either own another or possibly be helping others with theirs. I have always wondered how well this gets behind the baffles. Do the pellets work their way behind?
Could you comment on gas tank liners such as Bill Hirsch, epoxy liners and maybe cold galvanizing. I've considered phosphoric acid and zinc. Any thoughts?
I sure messed that up. I didn't intend to post it yet. Now that I know how to remove my1928 model A gas tank, I'm on a roll. but still have a couple of questions . #1. Is there a book or manuals that shows part numbers in a logical assembly order? ( Boy, if you understand that ???) #2. My inside front wheel bearing is stuck on the spindle . Any recommendations on removing it without damaging it . Also, right behind it is a grease seal of some sort. It's all metal as far as I can see . It appears to come off according to a Mac's catalog diagram. But I can't figure out how to remove it. #3. The top hinge on the back left door is loose. I don't know if the screws are loose because the screws came loose and egged out the wood, or the wood is rotten. How do I find out and what's a permanent band aid for it.. I want to just make a fun daily driver not a class A restoration. #4 If the engine # determines a cars age, What would stop a person from freezing & cracking a motor & getting an older motor & putting it into a 1929 model instantly making his 1929 into a 1928, solely because he didn't drain his cooling system ? From what I've read, some cars frame number.didn't necessarily match engine number, and Canadian cars didn't even have a frame number. Also, some have said that the number is often rusted off due to the cotton web used between body and frame. Well, I guess that's more than enough questions. Thanks for the info on removing a gas tank on my 28 Biggs.
I know when we’ve cleaned out motorcycle tanks in the past we do it about the same way you did. Then we completely rinse them out. And then there’s a gas tank coding that you mix and pour in and rotate the tank around to coat the whole tank. It’s like a epoxy for gas tanks.do you suggest doing that?
I am in the process of removing my tank from my 31 model a Tudor. Do I really need to remove the windshield to get the tank out? And any suggestions on freeing the screws holding the cowl to the firewall? I was hoping that the restoration video for the 4 door was closer in the works. Thanks for the videos it is certainly helpful.
Hi Joe. I suppose if you were patient you could get the tank out without completely removing the windshield. I haven't tried it yet. Sorry, the videos are somewhat at a standstill due to pressures at work and very little time for anything else.
Hi Paul, great video, and a great work out too by look of it! You mention a few times in the comments not to use sealer coatings on the inside of tanks. Do you have any recommendations to repair or seal a leaky 1928 tank? Unfortunately my tank leaks at both side seams
That might be a good candidate to take to the radiator shop. Have them chemically strip it and tin it (solder dip). The epoxy sealers won't fix it for long. You need metal.
Go to an radiator shop or use solder to close the leaks. If you will do it yourself remove the tank from the car and empty out ALL GASOLINE and let it dry them aerate the inside, you don't want the gas vapour turning the tank into an bomb.
Paul and Tina, good idea to clean the fuel tank. I cut mine apart and sand blasted it. Your way is a lot easier and cheaper. I didn’t like the guys doing it while in the car. I have a question, where would I get the measurements for drilling the holes in the rear fenders for the tail lamp bracket’s. Also would the Les Andrews books show me the measurements and also where the door rubber kit go on the doors. I noticed there is two books, do you suggest I buy both books. Thanks for all your help. Greeting to you both from Ontario, Canada.
Your left fender isn't already drilled? Usually, if adding a light to the right fender, just measure from the bottom of the left fender up to the light bracket, then repeat for right side. I don't think the Les Andrews book shows that. I highly suggest the red book. Also suggest the service bulletins.
Hi Paul and David. I actually just did my passenger tail light installation and I discovered two challenges. 1) be aware my fenders were slightly different sizes (no idea why), so measuring from bottom lip wasn’t accurate for me, and 2) my aftermarket bracket was not an exact replica of my factory drivers taillight bracket. Solution, I levelled the vehicle with car jack jack and 4’ bubble level on top of the body, and I used a carpenters laser level to ensure all holes were level to each other on a horizontal plane before I drilled. Final measurement for drilling was done by tape measure off the body and painters tape for layout. As for the bracket modifications (about 25mm out in two directions…!!). I had to make some serious modifications to get the tail lights to align, including multiple cuts, weld, grind smooth, prime, paint accordingly! Looks amazing now! Good luck!
@@justinleyland4056 thanks for the info, but in my case I bought new fenders and thru out the old ones years ago. I did however find a car sitting in really rough condition, had to straighten out the bottom of the fender to get my measurement. Looks like about 16 inches from the bottom of the fender to the bottom of the light bracket.
@@davidcox2130 glad you were able to get some measurements that will work for you, sounds like both your fenders are symmetrical! I’m also in Ontario, if you ever need any thing feel free to reach out. I’m on LinkedIn, social media, facebook. GHD
Count the number of pellets you put in the tank and when finished count the number that comes out, that way you dont miss one that could get caught somewhere and give problems later
Paul, Have you or anyone you know just filled a fuel tank with Evaporust right onnthe car, let it sit for 24 hours and drained? I am contemplating doing it this as I don't want to disassemble the 30 RPU I aquired.
@Paul Shinn thanks for the reply. I have been very impressed with Evaporust, really got turned on to it by the Handtool Rescue YT channel. Ill let you know how it works.
I have a stupid question and it’s not on the topic of a model a gas tank. I got a pre 1930 31 model a Ford coupe and it shimmys while going down the road at the speed of 25 to 35 miles an hour it feels like the wheels are going to fly off lol what could that be… I picked it up in a barn find last fall for 200 bucks it runs really well it shifts really well.. kind of insight would be great thx
More specifically, you’ll probably want to replace the king pins, the interior parts of your drag link and tie rod, make sure the ball on your steering arm is round, then align the front end. There are quite a few videos detailing how to do all these things. Good luck!
@Jack Bahm, I respectively disagree. I have used a shop vac to start a siphon to empty a gas tank. Myth Busters actually tried to start a fire/create an explosion with a shop vac and gasoline. It didn't happen.
The Boomerest Channel, just did the boomerest thing on all of TH-cam.... used a pill bottle as a plug.😆😆😆 Nice to see that the wife is still so willing and eager to help you with your back and forth after many years of marriage, if only we were all so lucky. 😅😅😅
Thank you! Someday I wish you could post a video of how to get the tank out of the car! Would I have to take the windshield out and header to do that? Thank you sir. David Gillespie
Для меня эта тема очень важна. К моему сожалению, мой браузерный переводчик бестолково перевёл названия химических реактивов, которые ты используешь, Пол. Я не знаю, что ты использовал. А мне хотелось бы знать. В следующий раз, пожалуйста, поближе показывай наклейки на ёмкостях с реактивами. This topic is very important to me. Unfortunately, my browser translator stupidly translated the names of the chemical reagents that you use, Paul. I do not know what you used. I'd like to know. Next time, please take a closer look at the labels on the reagent containers.
It also helps to try to maintain your gas tank as full as possible at all times to prevent rust. If the steel inside the tank is more exposed to air it is more prone to oxidation. Is there a specific reason to use lead pellets? I’ve seen similar procedures but just using regular metal hardware such as bolts and nuts, etc. Peaceful protestors 😂🤣
![จบจนได้ ! | Black Myth: Wukong #007 [ตอนจบ?]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DSqvWndF0sw/mqdefault.jpg)
Well done Paul, as usual. Jack
Thank YOU!
I bought a 1930 Ford Model A fairly recently. The chassis has been refurbished and the engine has been rebuilt but never run. It's quite the project and I'm fully willing to tackle it and bring the old girl back to her glory days. She came with 2 sets of four fenders (2 front, 2 rear), a set of splash aprons, bumpers for a town sedan, half a front bumper, a headlight holder and like four headlights, and an extra (Gemmer) steering column complete with wheel and levers. She's even got new tyres! Still needs the rest of the distributor, some hoses, and some wiring stuff but otherwise its all there. The cowl is off a 1926 Model T Roadster Pickup(?). She had a pickup box but that was sold. This video helped me figure out that apparently the gas tank is also your dashboard. Re-constructing my A will be quite the adventure, yes indeedy! and I hope to have her back on the road soon. On the back of the engine, there's some lever thingy with a button-lookin' thing on it. what is it for? is it a clutch? accelerator pedal? brake? Please let me know!
That's the throttle linkage
@@ModelA there's another, much smaller lever on the drivers side of the rear of the engine. is that the spark advance?
@@josephbruceismay6832 No. That is where the steering column throttle hits to move the throttle linkage
Just bought a 31 Sport Coupe for my Dad and pulled the tank for cleaning. Sat for 10yrs and had about 1/4” thick molasses/crust nastiness throughout. Got my pressure washer in there to blast at it, and used the pellet trick to get in hidden baffle areas. Keep shaking and rinsing and rinsing. Eventually crud came out. 5hrs of fun.
One tip for evacuating the pellets: Use a heater hose about 18” long, duct taped to the end of a shop vac hose and suck ‘em out. We pulled them via the fuel gauge hole and had my son shine a flashlight into the fuel filler hole. Made quick work of that.
Thanks for your videos! They are super helpful. Been restoring Mustangs for 35yrs but this A has its own learning curve. Your videos are making it fun to learn.
Thank you Paul and Model T for all of your hard work in cleaning out that gas tank in order to make this video. Steve Schmauch (pronounced 'Sch...Mock' as in Mocking Bird) is a longtime friend of mine (since 1978) and he is a fellow MAFCA Chapter member. Steve is so helpful and knowledgeable, we are blessed to have him in our club as a Model A resource and good friend.
I know Steve very well. We judged together in Kerrville last year. Please tell him I said HI!
A buddy uses a cement mixer to strap the gas tank to the front of the mixer and spins it with “stuff” in it. Nuts and bolts, etc. works great.
It's been a long time since I had to clean a fuel tank, of course the ones that I cleaned were not to a Model A. I never used the pellets, that's a good pointer, thanks. You and Model T got a good workout with that gas tank shaking, and did Jack Bahm and his crew give that one a good thrashing. Great video, thanks for sharing, hope y'all have a great weekend.
Thanks Paul and Tina - another great video!
As I was cleaning my ‘31 A tank, I decided to extend to fuel line to sediment bowl about an inch up into the tank so any crud left in the tank would stay on the bottom and not be able to fall down into the line. Yes, it reduced the available gas capacity because some would always stay in the tank, but after ten years on the road, I’ve never had any clogging issues.
That's basically what the pencil filters you install in the fuel shutoff valve do. Same idea. Whatever works!
I saw a farmer strap a fuel tank to a tractor tire, jack up the back tires, crank the motor, let the tank twirl on the tire about half a day. Your way looks much easier.
We always stop at the gas station after a drive to keep the tank full.
Thanks for another great video.
Farmers come up with the coolest "life hacks"!
Never knew how to do this. Looks easy and exhausting hehe. I'm looking for my dream home... actually a home with my dream garage. Super excited to have room for my first Model A!
Thanks for the video. A couple things I did to help. First, I used a 4 wheel dolly and strapped it down with a ratchet strap. Second, and I think the best trick, is I used BBs and pellets with copper coated, steel BBs in the tips. Gamo Rocket pellets. Then I was able to use a magnetic wand to retrieve the pellets and BBs easier than just shaking then out.
Nice work!
Paul, after see this video, you mentioned the best way to keep your gas tank free of rust. I think a way of doing this is to keep fuel in it. As much as permitted.
Yep. That's the way to do it
Thanks for your informative videos! This is a common problem that has prevented many A's from being driven as the seasons pass.
I am going to use your method and try to get a 29 roadster that is a 30 year old restoration, back up to reliable function for it's aging owner.
Nicely done !
Always appreciate your videos 😁
That was quite amazing how well that worked.
Thank you!
TANKS ALOT for this informative and interesting video!
No tanks necessary..
Great explanation & demonstration. Nice editing by speeding up the video.
Thank you very much TMH!
I always enjoy watching your video's and I learn a lot.
Thank you for taking the time to make them.
Glad you like them!
Thanks for giving me your thoughts. My rear fenders are new and have no holes for the tail lamp brackets. I got rid of my old fenders years ago. I guess I should have measured the old fenders before I got rid of them.
Ah, now I understand. Head to your local Model A club meeting and ask to measure a car there.
On my motorcycles I use muriatic acid, works very well. When its done, drain, add baking soda and water, rinse then add some 90% alcohol to absorb any remaining water. Drainand use a shop vac to blow dry, pour in some two-cycle premix and slosh it around to prevent flash rust. Well, that's what works for me and I don't have chemical restrictions.
I had to clean my gas tank in my 29 Tudor. I took it out after several soaks with non-california mineral spirits. That was not enough. I ended up using a solution of about a cup of lye in 5 gallons of water. I let it soak for a few minutes while using agitation and rolling the tank around and upside down. I rinsed it well and let it dry some. Then I used a metal prep solution and then a sealer kit to do the inside of the tank. Since I am still working on the rest of the car, I can't report on the durability of the sealer, the inside of the tank is clean and sealed against rust.
Thannnnnnks for another awesome idea.Now it makes me wonder if my 28 needs the same.2 videos in the same day from the Shinns. Saw model t on 20 million th ford earlier Can't go wrong with Paul and Tini videos.Thx D.J.
Great video , but now I've got Cheech Marin's voice stuck in my head saying " shake it , you can't break it " ! Lol .
Very helpful video on cleaning the gas tank. You also have one on flushing and cleaning the radiator and cooling system?
I use lots of rough pebbles, sand, dish soap, and hot water in a steel tank. For aluminum tanks, I slosh stainless steel wool with a shallow pool of dish soapwater.
The shoving of the tank on the cart back and forth reminds me of the old "Jiffy Pop" popcorn method of popping. Get your Jiffy Pop container on a hot stove iron and start pushing back and forth... back and forth. Pretty soon you start hearing the corn popping and ur almost done.
I sure remember that!
Thank You, Thank You, Thank You. I recently bought a 28 ffour door Biggs. It appears to be in pretty good shape. Zero Rust that I can find. Far as I cab tell is it needs a paint job.
Hey Paul Can you show a video on how to remove a fuel tank. That would be great thanks
It’s a labor of love. A lot goes into it. Thankfully today tanks are made with rust in mind.
My Chevy tank rusted out though. Have a John Deere diesel that did also
Hi Paul. I have used (ZEP) acidic toilet bowl cleaner with much success . It really dissolves the rust.
Cool!
Cleaned my tank in several steps. Removed gas shut off and floorboards to drain. Cardboard to direct flow. Used 1 gallon each of Purple Cleaner, driveway cleaner (sodium hydroxide) and then oxalic acid. Top off tank each time and shake, let sit for a day. Lots of rinsing in between chemicals. Used a small hose to jet out tank. A little oil added to the rinse water to leave a residue behind. Did not use muriatic acid as it etches the metal. All cleaners biodegradable, safe on paint and safe to dispose of down drain. Wear goggles and long rubber gloves.
Cool!
@@ModelA Thanks for all your help with my Model A.
Love your videos Paul someday I will get a model A and know how to fix it up and take care of it cuz of you!
Go for it!
Great video and very informative. An addition video to add to this would be how to remove and install the tank.
Nobody wants to sit through a video that long
Great video, neet way to get all corners clean, guess pull tank on my 27 an try this,previous owner had steamed an cleaned they said,not a good job,thanks again 😀
Thanks, that was very helpful!
I just wished that I had watched this a long time ago. I didn't remove the tank (paint job was perfect and I didn't want to scratch it up) I used a water base material to dissolve rust. It worked so so. Thanks again for a great video. + I got to see Tina do the shake!!! ❤ how long a time span to remove tank???
It takes me about an hour to get a tank in or out.
Paul …. I think there is an easier way to clean out those gas tanks… I just looked on TH-cam and found some videos of “ motorcycle gas tank Tumblr rotisseries “ .. you guys could make one of these rotisseries for the model a gas tanks… I would consider the correct media it’s like little stones kind of diamond shaped … that would be an awesome tool for you and the guys in the model a club !
That would work. I just use what I have on hand.
Whoa. It's much easier to use pebbles, sand, dish soap, and hot water. I've done a number of steel tanks and aluminum tanks. You can roll and shake them on a lawn, and sometimes over your sink.
Nice job Paul & Model A
Shake, rattle and roll! Doing the procedure in-car would probably a great way to get rid of squeaky springs... I'm sure they were shining bright after that xD
Yep!!
The Paul & "Model T Method " much preferred (for me) over the "Jack Bahm". They did look like they (Jack's Gang) really enjoyed "shaking things up". 😃
I like Jack's method too.
Excellent, I was just about to clean mine out. Attempted to do it month ago but the fuel shutoff valve was seized that I couldn't open it.
Fine. As long as it isn't open, just leave it be. When it's time to empty the lead and last bit of fluid, the mineral spirits should have helped act like a thread release and make it easier to remove.
Had mine rusty gunky fueltank from the 29 Roadster handed over to a company speciallized in paintstripping and rustremoving by acid dipping.
Then after throughly flushing and cleaning it has been passivated to prevent further rusting.
It of course needed a complete new paintjob after that treatment.
I had it done that way because of being a lazy slacker myself, anyway wanting a perfect result and also wanted to keep the nasty chemical mess going along with that process as far away as possible from my house.
That is the ultimate way to go if you are going to be painting the whole car anyway, and you have extra $$, and your state allows that. I live in Commiefornia and we don't get cool stuff like that anymore. We don't even get real mineral spirits anymore.
Thanks Paul, seems simple and easy. Just time a little energy😊
Steve Barnacle
Thank you
Great video! very informative, have you ever used a tank sealer like POR 15 or red coat? I'd like to know your opinion about how well they work. I have also heard of some people using white vinegar and rocks to clean out their tanks. Vinegar is acidic and the MSDS for Stoddard's solvent or mineral spirits states there is no data available. Thanks again for all your fantastic information.
Absolutely never use a "tank sealer". That's a last resort only if you're selling a car and have no conscience.
The sealer will eventually dry out and flake off, plugging your filter, fuel line or carburettor. If you tank is that bad you better change it.
@@kinsmart7294 It is a 1926 model T tank and they do not make them anymore. There is no reproductions available since they were used only in 1926-27.
@@jefframsey5863 Then go to an radiator shop and have it soldered.
Some '70s disco would have been a nice addition to the scene. Shake, shake, shake your bootie! Oops! Shake your fuel tank. Great stuff Paul. PS I like the Sponge Bob stuff!
I don't want the TH-cam overlords to give me a copyright strike!
Seen a good tip today. Don't fill fuel ta k all the way up. Because it will expand and damage paint.
Do you have a recommendation for shock oil/fluid besides the high priced stuff in the catalogs? Is there a procedure for installing it other than just pour it in?
I just use regular hydraulic oil, like you use in your floor jack. It's cheap. Open the bung on the shock body and pour it in. Simple.
I bet these prewar tanks hold up better than newer classics. Probably virgin steel and not the recycled stuff.
Paul, I purchased my first Model A recently after watching your channel.
I bought a 29 Cabriolet and I have to pull the fuel tank as it’s weeping (not dripping yet) from one of the top rivets of the steering column support bracket. There is also some rust in the tank kind of like the one you just cleaned.
My plan is to remove it and take it to a professional radiator shop here to have it cleaned and have the leak area repaired and pressure tested then repainted.
I have two questions:
1) I cannot see any body divides on the cowl area where the tank lifts out like 28’s and 29’s (my understanding so far is that the 29 Cabriolet model was the fore runner for the 30 cowl design change. How does this tank come out? There appears to be a small body gap between the brass threaded filler neck and the top of the cowl - does the tank come out while leaving the top painted part of the cowl on the car?
2) Why do you not agree with sealing a tank after it’s been cleaned?
Good job!
The 29 fuel tank is separate from the body. A 30/31 fuel tank top is also the top of the cowl. On a 29, the top of the cowl is not the top of the tank. So, you have a little more disassembly to do. See all those bolts under the hood along the firewall? Those come out too.
Why don't I like epoxy tank sealer? It always ends up in the carb! It slowly lets go and flows down into the carb and ends up clogging the jets.
Paul, does this give the old saying 'what's shaking?' a whole new meaning ?
Yes!
Paul Shinn is my warranty!
I've always used pea gravel and mineral spirits, for motorcycle tanks, without any problem.
That'll work! Nice
Nice clean up. I was wondering 🤔 can the tanks be coated with something like epoxy inside too stop rust? Take care, Mike
Yes
My family has the same green bucket that you drained the lead out, except we use it to get sick in.
That's what they are designed for! Model T works in a hospital and they throw these things out (unused) like crazy.
Paul and Tina, very good.
Is the inside of the tank then treated with a coating? Or a further process?
Is there a way for to keep the tank from rusting again?
Hey DM! Where have you been hiding? Inside of tank not treated. If you keep it pretty full, it won't rust. If you are going to store the car, drain it and fog it. Fogging oil like they use in motors works fine.
@@ModelA Paul, thanks for answering.
I haven't had time for all the videos, but I generally will catch up. That's why sometimes I comment a while after they were released.
Thanks, Paul and Tina. I am fortunate that my 29 tank is in comparatively great shape. I will file this away for future reference as some day I will either own another or possibly be helping others with theirs. I have always wondered how well this gets behind the baffles. Do the pellets work their way behind?
Yes. that's why we tilted the tank and worked it several times.
Could you comment on gas tank liners such as Bill Hirsch, epoxy liners and maybe cold galvanizing. I've considered phosphoric acid and zinc. Any thoughts?
I don't use them.
I sure messed that up. I didn't intend to post it yet. Now that I know how to remove my1928 model A gas tank, I'm on a roll. but still have a couple of questions .
#1. Is there a book or manuals that shows part numbers in a logical assembly order? ( Boy, if you understand that ???)
#2. My inside front wheel bearing is stuck on the spindle . Any recommendations on removing it without damaging it . Also, right behind it is a grease seal of some sort. It's all metal as far as I can see . It appears to come off according to a Mac's catalog diagram. But I can't figure out how to remove it.
#3. The top hinge on the back left door is loose. I don't know if the screws are loose because the screws came loose and egged out the wood, or the wood is rotten. How do I find out and what's a permanent band aid for it.. I want to just make a fun daily driver not a class A restoration.
#4 If the engine # determines a cars age, What would stop a person from freezing & cracking a motor & getting an older motor & putting it into a 1929 model instantly making his 1929 into a 1928, solely because he didn't drain his cooling system ? From what I've read, some cars frame number.didn't necessarily match engine number, and Canadian cars didn't even have a frame number. Also, some have said that the number is often rusted off due to the cotton web used between body and frame. Well, I guess that's more than enough questions. Thanks for the info on removing a gas tank on my 28 Biggs.
I know when we’ve cleaned out motorcycle tanks in the past we do it about the same way you did. Then we completely rinse them out. And then there’s a gas tank coding that you mix and pour in and rotate the tank around to coat the whole tank. It’s like a epoxy for gas tanks.do you suggest doing that?
Only in extreme cases
That’s a lot of work, but well worth it.
Any experience with products such as evaporust? Keep on a rockin...
The original Evap-o-rust was good. The new environmentally friendly version sucks.
My friend how do you remove the tank and how hard is it to remove it I have a good looking 1932 truck. Please help me. Thanks
on a 30/31, remove the windshield first. On some, you can remove the hardware and fold it out all the way and have enough room to remove the tank.
I am in the process of removing my tank from my 31 model a Tudor. Do I really need to remove the windshield to get the tank out? And any suggestions on freeing the screws holding the cowl to the firewall? I was hoping that the restoration video for the 4 door was closer in the works. Thanks for the videos it is certainly helpful.
Hi Joe. I suppose if you were patient you could get the tank out without completely removing the windshield. I haven't tried it yet. Sorry, the videos are somewhat at a standstill due to pressures at work and very little time for anything else.
I just removed the tank from my Dad’s 31 Sport Coupe without removing the windshield. Tilt waaay up and it is tight, but it will come out.
You can use copper BBs and vinegar or alcohol.
Yes, but it takes a lot longer.
Hey Paul and Tina, Very informative video but how does the tank come off of the body?
Remove windshield, remove hood, undo steering column hardware, remove dash panel, ignition cable, wiring, and speedometer, remove fuel line hardware, remove clamps, remove bolts, lift up.
Wow! No wonder those guys were rocking that car!
Were those metric or imperial glugs?
They were like loading a grilled cheese sandwich into a VCR.
Hi Paul, great video, and a great work out too by look of it! You mention a few times in the comments not to use sealer coatings on the inside of tanks. Do you have any recommendations to repair or seal a leaky 1928 tank? Unfortunately my tank leaks at both side seams
That might be a good candidate to take to the radiator shop. Have them chemically strip it and tin it (solder dip). The epoxy sealers won't fix it for long. You need metal.
Go to an radiator shop or use solder to close the leaks. If you will do it yourself remove the tank from the car and empty out ALL GASOLINE and let it dry them aerate the inside, you don't want the gas vapour turning the tank into an bomb.
what fun that is but important
Paul and Tina, good idea to clean the fuel tank. I cut mine apart and sand blasted it. Your way is a lot easier and cheaper. I didn’t like the guys doing it while in the car. I have a question, where would I get the measurements for drilling the holes in the rear fenders for the tail lamp bracket’s. Also would the Les Andrews books show me the measurements and also where the door rubber kit go on the doors. I noticed there is two books, do you suggest I buy both books. Thanks for all your help. Greeting to you both from Ontario, Canada.
Your left fender isn't already drilled? Usually, if adding a light to the right fender, just measure from the bottom of the left fender up to the light bracket, then repeat for right side. I don't think the Les Andrews book shows that. I highly suggest the red book. Also suggest the service bulletins.
Hi Paul and David. I actually just did my passenger tail light installation and I discovered two challenges. 1) be aware my fenders were slightly different sizes (no idea why), so measuring from bottom lip wasn’t accurate for me, and 2) my aftermarket bracket was not an exact replica of my factory drivers taillight bracket. Solution, I levelled the vehicle with car jack jack and 4’ bubble level on top of the body, and I used a carpenters laser level to ensure all holes were level to each other on a horizontal plane before I drilled. Final measurement for drilling was done by tape measure off the body and painters tape for layout. As for the bracket modifications (about 25mm out in two directions…!!). I had to make some serious modifications to get the tail lights to align, including multiple cuts, weld, grind smooth, prime, paint accordingly! Looks amazing now! Good luck!
@@justinleyland4056 thanks for the info, but in my case I bought new fenders and thru out the old ones years ago. I did however find a car sitting in really rough condition, had to straighten out the bottom of the fender to get my measurement. Looks like about 16 inches from the bottom of the fender to the bottom of the light bracket.
@@davidcox2130 glad you were able to get some measurements that will work for you, sounds like both your fenders are symmetrical! I’m also in Ontario, if you ever need any thing feel free to reach out. I’m on LinkedIn, social media, facebook. GHD
Count the number of pellets you put in the tank and when finished count the number that comes out, that way you dont miss one that could get caught somewhere and give problems later
Dang. I never thought of that! Brilliant!
Paul,
Have you or anyone you know just filled a fuel tank with Evaporust right onnthe car, let it sit for 24 hours and drained? I am contemplating doing it this as I don't want to disassemble the 30 RPU I aquired.
Have done that with CLR. It only sorta worked
@Paul Shinn thanks for the reply. I have been very impressed with Evaporust, really got turned on to it by the Handtool Rescue YT channel. Ill let you know how it works.
Man, I am lazy. I would spend days trying to mechanize this operation.
Don W.
I was looking around for that old wind-up baby swing myself. I'm with you, brother.
Love the SpongeBob reference
😁👍👍👍
Just paying respect!
I've done motorcycle tanks dry with bbs and drywall screws in my clothes dryer.
Do you know of anyone that works on the 1929 model a in arizona
Sammie Guthrie at Arizona Model A parts
Would electrolysis do the same thing with less work or does that open another can of worms?
A whole new can of worms. The solder holding the stuff to the tank will dissolve first...
@@ModelA never new that thanks for being on the ball.
I have a stupid question and it’s not on the topic of a model a gas tank. I got a pre 1930 31 model a Ford coupe and it shimmys while going down the road at the speed of 25 to 35 miles an hour it feels like the wheels are going to fly off lol what could that be… I picked it up in a barn find last fall for 200 bucks it runs really well it shifts really well.. kind of insight would be great thx
We call that "death wobble". You have some front end work to do.
More specifically, you’ll probably want to replace the king pins, the interior parts of your drag link and tie rod, make sure the ball on your steering arm is round, then align the front end. There are quite a few videos detailing how to do all these things. Good luck!
Paul, would it be possible to use a vacuum cleaner to remove the lead pellets? Cheers mate (and mate-ess).
No, if there is fuel vapor in there, it would make a Big Bang. There are sparks in the vacuum motor.
@@JackBahmlll Good point.
@Jack Bahm, I respectively disagree. I have used a shop vac to start a siphon to empty a gas tank. Myth Busters actually tried to start a fire/create an explosion with a shop vac and gasoline. It didn't happen.
The Boomerest Channel, just did the boomerest thing on all of TH-cam.... used a pill bottle as a plug.😆😆😆
Nice to see that the wife is still so willing and eager to help you with your back and forth after many years of marriage, if only we were all so lucky. 😅😅😅
That comment put the BOOM in Boomer! Hahaha!
If this car's a rockin'...
You know the rest!!
@@ModelA ...Don't just stand there, grab a fender and help us clean the tank!
Hahahaa!!!
Can you buy a new tank for a model A ford ?
No one is making new gas tanks
This is quite a workout! I would try to stap it to the washing machine and let it shake it :)
That's another good one! I was thinking of putting a kid with lots of energy on a swing set and put the tank on their lap and say "see you in an hour"
@@ModelA that's also a great idea, but I don't have to bribe my washing machine with candy ha ha
Now I have to clean my '68 Camaro gas tank.
Same thing!
You can't get mineral spirits in California ?! Geez, I thought Australia was a nanny state !
California has become the worst
Is that where the saying "get the lead out!" came from??
Perhaps...
Thank you! Someday I wish you could post a video of how to get the tank out of the car! Would I have to take the windshield out and header to do that? Thank you sir. David Gillespie
The windshield should be off but not the header.
i had no idea that the dash in a model A was the fuel tank as well sheesh
maybe building a new tank?
Для меня эта тема очень важна. К моему сожалению, мой браузерный переводчик бестолково перевёл названия химических реактивов, которые ты используешь, Пол. Я не знаю, что ты использовал. А мне хотелось бы знать. В следующий раз, пожалуйста, поближе показывай наклейки на ёмкостях с реактивами.
This topic is very important to me. Unfortunately, my browser translator stupidly translated the names of the chemical reagents that you use, Paul. I do not know what you used. I'd like to know. Next time, please take a closer look at the labels on the reagent containers.
www.amazon.com/Klean-Strip-GKSP94214-Odorless-Mineral-1-Gallon/dp/B000QD7PIQ/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1MYUOBQV022AX&keywords=mineral+spirits&qid=1646627954&sprefix=mineral+spirit%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-8
Glass marbles and a cement mixer. You're welcome!
Imagine the racket!
@@ModelA Its a cacophony for sure! I walk away and leave it be.
Bungie or ratch strap to a poly cement mixer drum permits multiple angles.
Soo many puns come to mind...
Get the lead out, for one.
Very punny.
It also helps to try to maintain your gas tank as full as possible at all times to prevent rust. If the steel inside the tank is more exposed to air it is more prone to oxidation.
Is there a specific reason to use lead pellets? I’ve seen similar procedures but just using regular metal hardware such as bolts and nuts, etc.
Peaceful protestors 😂🤣
Lead just works better. I have tried all sorts of stuff.
Great video but I think it was just an excuse for you and Tina to shake rattle and roll 😳
not even dirty... its like pointless man come on
get a plastic tank
Where do you find one for a Model A?