Just found out the channel and restoration series of this 1928 Model A Coupe. Watched all the episodes in a row. So far this has been most interesting restoration series to watch/follow. Also hope that original engine block can be restored. Specially how good of a condition the whole engine has been in general. Keep up the good work car will be awesome. 👍
Remember back in mid 1950s watching my fathers friends putting oil and stuff in cyls in those old things. Working them back and forth and finally getting them to run. They would drive them around and drive them in parades. Long time ago when I was a teen
"Let's not lose this..." Ha ha ha. I would have lost or mixed up half of those parts. Nice video. It's fun to think back to the engineers and mechanics who created that engine almost 100 years ago. They were pretty smart people. We stand on the shoulders of some pretty tall people from the past.
Sorry to see the gouge, but it's such a nice block might be worth sleveing? Excited to see how this turns out, I put a 4" Scat crank in my flathead v8 and it works great. Machinist did complain about having to remove a lot of material from the crank to balance it but it turned out nice, no vibration.
You've really stepped up your game with producing a video. I really enjoyed your Model A rebuild videos. I"m not a car guy, but have always been interested in what that process looks like. You did a great job of making it easy to follow.
Yay! A new video of the '28! It's looking so good. I just finished a 51 Ford Jubilee tractor and just love watching this kind of stuff. Keep 'em coming, Friend!
The same thing happened to my '68 Harley, when a circlip failed and the wrist pin moved over, and scored the cylinder wall, but not as bad as that. Bored it out to 60 thou, and the scoring disappeared [luckily]
Enjoyed this video and subbed, I just bought a 31 A-400, 3 weeks ago. I’m learning as I go, picked up a engine from a gentleman that passed away, just to have one to play with.
Great video. Glad to see more progress on this project. On the 1930 Model A that I've been working with, I was surprised to see it had replacement pistons that were 0.30 oversized. So, as you mentioned, I'm sure you can rehab this motor and get it repaired. Thank you.
This is something I would love to do again. I'm getting too old and decrepit for this kinda thing. I did enjoy doing an FE series 390 Ford in the late 80s. By the way, nice job on the video
For the highbay light, get a "corncob" style LED replacement. It is not to hard to retrofit old high bays to run on the new LEDs. Simply bypass the ballast completely, run 120 straight to the big ole socket (just like a regular lamp) and insert the new LED bulb. While a bit more expensive up front, the LED pulls less power and turns on immediately, instead of waiting forever for the halide to heat up. An electrical supply house will have a better selection of bulbs.
I actually have one installed in one of my fixtures, it's absolutely useless In here. Seriously. The ceiling is just too dark and high. I could put in a ceiling under the trusses, so many people have told me to do that, but price wise we are talking 25k to do that. More importantly I want the high ceilings, all the cutting and welding makes a lot of smoke and it's nice that it goes up and out the roof vents. Painting the ceiling would help the led light bars I have installed on the model a side of the shop, but those alone with no highbay is still not enough and makes for a cold looking video in my opinion. Maybe I'll do a video on shop lighting one of these days and show everything in detail, see what people suggest. Thanks for the suggestion though! 👍
I just did an engine that had two cylinders the very same way as yours. It came from a Model A guy in the S.E. US. [so I have been told] It's mazing what people will do to cut corners.
You can remove the plastic covering though once that is gone you can see much more the same with EVs remove the frunk which is easy and you are treated to some awesome engine for ice and plug ins and innards for EVs that one can modify if one has the skill and money.
its amazing to me to see how little engine design has changed over the years. up untill the 90's a 4 cylinder engine was still pretty much the same as this.
If no one else has commented yet, I suggest that 'S/O' is actually 'O/S' = oversize, so it seems that the engine may have possibly had been re-bored with oversize pistons fitted. It's also possible that the large damaged area in the cylinder is a factory flaw, probably at the casting stage. How it got past inspection is anybody's guess. Good vid, and very interesting, thanks.
@Retired Bore Yes, though as it seems that the pistons are maked over-size, the corresponding bore will be O/S too, necessiitating the insertion of cylinder sleeves. I don't think there would be enough material for additional re-boring.
@Retired Bore I'm not too sure how many cylinders are O/S, but it's interesting that you say that the poor quality of some castings was accepted for what they were at that time. I suppose afterwards, tollerances/quality improved due to the fact lives depended on it during WW2, and these practices were carried over to everyday civilian production, which was not a priority during the 1920's/30's. Interesting stuff, I'm learning a bit from this thread.
Damn that is one big tear in the cylinder wall. It looks like a wrist pin had a issue in that hole that's too bad but hope it cleans up because it be a shame to toss that block because of that deep scar
Ouch, hope everything works out wiht the engine! Ain't seen anything like that since a friend of mine and I tore down a stuck Ford diesel engine out of a tractor once just for giggles. Tractor was junk, transmission had gotten full of water, was rusted solid, all the sheet metal was rusted bad, rear end was froze up, we thought about using the engine for something else but it smoked bad so we took the head off and were like "Oh... Oh no" haha!
I have no idea what condition my 31 coupes engine is inside. She runs good. Watching and learning. Especially interested in inserts vs babbit. Thanks for your content.
I just pulled all 4 pistons in a model A engine and all 4 are marked Ford, with an expansion slit on the side below the rings. Nothing is over or under sized so I doubt if it has ever been rebuilt with one of the 4 having a smaller side opening like that one you show.
You are doing something that I wish I could do. I would love to learn to overhaul an engine. I could practice on an Air compressor, I think it works the same as an engine. it is one piston compressor.
Pretty much, except the valves in a compressor are pressure driven by the air inside the cylinder of the compressor. Nothing like the valves in an engine.
I see damage like this in old tractors and always try to imagine the stress most of the original operators had. Most were poor and could not afford proper fixes. In the case of tractors, they generally needed the tractor running immediately. So, they did what they had to do, maybe working from their dirt floor in the shop after the cows were milked and move on. In this case, this damage is fortunately lower down in the wall and probably didn't blow by too bad, So, the original owners most likely could only afford to change just the single piston & rod and live with what they had.
the chunk in the cylinder wall I bet would be your wrist pins sliding in the bore in the piston head and slamming against the cylinder wall causing a knocking sound and most likely the reason the car was parked in the first place!
Man your content is awesome! I bet that made a bang when whatever it was happened to cylinder 4. The math looks about right, I hope. But what do I know?
I reckon that they pulled it apart back in the day and assembled it with the gouge knowing it may be the last work done on the block. Two strokes work with holes in the bore, so, why not?
Just picked up on this project & it has my interest. If you are going the full pressure lube & slipper bearing mod, then of course an alloy head is a must. I have always wondered if a Model 'B' [1932] cylinder head was interchangeable on the 'A' block as I have always preferred the three bolt water pump. In fact, the 1933/'34 model 'C' engine [ also available to special order in fleet vehicles up to about 1937] was a full pressure engine from new. Your damaged cylinder can be offset bored by a few thou to help ensure that the damage is cleaned up. Any updates on this engine?
So i have been falling a little behind on Model A videos these days. Now that the season is over here and we are rolling into the winter months, the car and engine will be getting a lot more attention. I've got an engine video coming out here in a day or two, basically just a quick rundown of what i was planning on doing and cleaning the block up for the machine shop. However, i don't think i'm going with the Scat crankshaft in this one any more. What i am going to do is insert bearings in the mains and rods, pressurize just the mains, add counter weights on the Yard Art's stock crankshaft, one piece valve guides and bigger intakes, and of course, an aluminum head! The main reason for going a little cheaper on this one is i actually just picked up a B block, and in the future, that would be the engine i would like to go all out on. Also we did look at cylinder 4 again and yes, offsetting the bore a couple thousandths should definitely take care of any damage. Already got myself a set of .125 over pistons, hopefully machining starts soon. Thanks for your input, should be getting into more on this shortly, also started making parts for a jig to hold the stock crank while welding on the counter weights.
You may be way past this by now but I would agree with "Skylinefever" below and would certainly favor a sleeve in #4 rather than take out so much material from all the other cylinders. You have three cylinders with only .040 removed from their original size. 3.915 is exactly .040 over with nothing for clearance beyond .040. Those cylinders may take a hone and provide clearance for new .040 pistons if you sleeve #4 and bore to match. Sure seems like a much more "sustaining" approach. Obviously, totally your decision !!!
I thought sleeve installation wasn't such a bad thing here. Plus the sleeves are cast from better stuff than the block is. Since the other bores measured ~3.915 it means the engine is already +.040 I'd rather fit a sleeve to the damaged bore, then rebore all cylinders to +.060 The more cylinder wall you have left, the more stable the engine is. It is especially valuable on engines as rough as this.
Flathead was a cheap and simple design for a car engine back in the day. Only the most expensive cars had OHV/OHC engines back when this Model A was built.
Thats from a loose wristpin. Had an engine out of a 65 Datsun 410 that did the same thing. Was a pinchbolt retained wristpin, pinchbolt had come loose.
My guess, that the person, who replace the Piston No 4, even didn't take a look inside the cylinder itself. Just throw away damaged piston, put in the new one, even not the same type, and bolt it back together, fast and simple. I just can not explain it in different way...
Love to see restoration of antique vehicles. Gone are those days when sleeving , Valves resetting, gearboxes made brand new, crown resetting, master wheel cylinders properly checked before discarding, odometer with trip meter for war vehicle the black out lights to camouflage oft air strikes etc.Voltage and current Regulator Autolite and Delco Remy lasting for century. Today sad to see the use and throw takes upper hand.Worst in some countries the policy of scrapping on age basis has devastated the poors. Pollution test with Catalytic converter for emission norms turn useless. It is heartening to discover Catalytic converter has kilometres guarantee .If the guarantee is 2 lakh km car owners are saved from having to purchase new vehicle.not affordable by middle class
Of course they put it back together like that. Machine shop? They ain't never even heard of a machine shop much less afford one. They just put in a new piston and drove it harder than ever. If they got a chance to run over some dandy whispering about machine shops and cylinder boring, they didn't waste it either! 😅
They claim 4" is up there, some people will even argue that's kind of extreme on the forums, but then again there are older guys on there saying the used to punch race motors up to 4.080... getting pretty thin at that point! But they claimed they held up good.
So when you finish that motor,Ill expect to see you in N.H. Awesome information Obviously not your 1st time disassembling an A engine.If I only had the knowledge to do so.Keep us informed on your progress.
This is the one I have! Thanks for watching! www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/W83203/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl8anBhCFARIsAKbbpyRKhXXS9GXSOrUEDEMGQ8X0AP5DbF6PVi7VS81r6-qaa4ZamAvqpNwaAp77EALw_wcBwww.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/W83203/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl8anBhCFARIsAKbbpyRKhXXS9GXSOrUEDEMGQ8X0AP5DbF6PVi7VS81r6-qaa4ZamAvqpNwaAp77EALw_wcB
Those engines were famous for oil starvation when running on a slope (hills). I would guess sometime in deep history it threw a rod and gouged that bore. Why it was reassembled so, with that kind of danage is anyone's guess. It may have been repairedon the side of the road from underneath and they just sdid screw it. Times were different
Yeah I think reweld and rebore this damaged wall is the only way. Then balance all piston together ( I think they don't balance them, they were AIM at a quick fix ) You can even think to add something like nikasil on the bore. Something that would be extremely good to look at is to find a way to made all of thoose old designed engine to stop eating that mutch oil on regular run... but this is a lot of enginering with the ring :(
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Enjoyable video. It should take the bore. Looking forward to see what happens. I want to see you put
it back together. Excellent video.
I showed my wife when you spun the crank...she liked it vey much...she used to do that to me about 40 yrs ago...
You sir, I believe just made my favorite comment since I started putting stuff on here. 👍
Just found out the channel and restoration series of this 1928 Model A Coupe. Watched all the episodes in a row. So far this has been most interesting restoration series to watch/follow. Also hope that original engine block can be restored. Specially how good of a condition the whole engine has been in general.
Keep up the good work car will be awesome. 👍
13:37 INVALID ??? This is awesome. I love seeing these restore videos. MORE !! MORE !!!!
I dont think I've taken a banger apart yet that has all 4 pistons the same , lol.
Great video Ben !
A man who knows how to use tools will always know how to make them.
Ya with a lathe and machining table you can make anything
I once made a nose picker when I broke my finger.
Hey Rotter. Good video. I enjoy seeing the old stuff brought back to life. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍
Remember back in mid 1950s watching my fathers friends putting oil and stuff in cyls in those old things. Working them back and forth and finally getting them to run.
They would drive them around and drive them in parades. Long time ago when I was a teen
"Let's not lose this..." Ha ha ha. I would have lost or mixed up half of those parts. Nice video. It's fun to think back to the engineers and mechanics who created that engine almost 100 years ago. They were pretty smart people. We stand on the shoulders of some pretty tall people from the past.
Good luck with the bore, it's definitely worth trying to save. Great show thanks for sharing.
You can silver solder those gouge marks and it should work for you. The temps are not severe enough to melt the silver solder. Just a thought.
Absolutely amazing, the whole thing. I can't wait. Haven't seen one of those flat heads cone apart before. Thanks for showing. Great video.
Sorry to see the gouge, but it's such a nice block might be worth sleveing? Excited to see how this turns out, I put a 4" Scat crank in my flathead v8 and it works great. Machinist did complain about having to remove a lot of material from the crank to balance it but it turned out nice, no vibration.
Nice to see there's some hope that this car can get to retain the original engine, and great to see this project coiming along!
You've really stepped up your game with producing a video. I really enjoyed your Model A rebuild videos. I"m not a car guy, but have always been interested in what that process looks like. You did a great job of making it easy to follow.
Please stick with the video until the end a lot of us are extremely curious to see how this whole thing works out appreciate it fantastic job.
Thanks for sharing, I can't wait to see if the block is salvageable. 🤟🤠👍
Yay! A new video of the '28! It's looking so good. I just finished a 51 Ford Jubilee tractor and just love watching this kind of stuff. Keep 'em coming, Friend!
Oh wow, I just binged the whole series about this build and subbed like an hour ago, and here you are with a new vid.
The same thing happened to my '68 Harley, when a circlip failed and the wrist pin moved over, and scored the
cylinder wall, but not as bad as that. Bored it out to 60 thou, and the scoring disappeared [luckily]
You're video held by interest every second.. Not so sure I could do it but it sure was very informative
Enjoyed this video and subbed, I just bought a 31 A-400, 3 weeks ago. I’m learning as I go, picked up a engine from a gentleman that passed away, just to have one to play with.
Great job as ever and very clearly explained.
Looking great Ben.
Great video. Glad to see more progress on this project. On the 1930 Model A that I've been working with, I was surprised to see it had replacement pistons that were 0.30 oversized. So, as you mentioned, I'm sure you can rehab this motor and get it repaired. Thank you.
I'm used to modern engines.
Very interesting to see how the old ones were built.
What about sleeving the cylinder? Hate to see this one come to an end. Would like to see more of this car. Nice videos 👍
That cylinder wall damage is possibly casting faults that eventually gave way after hours of running. I've seen it before, had to scrap 3 V8 blocks.
This is something I would love to do again. I'm getting too old and decrepit for this kinda thing. I did enjoy doing an FE series 390 Ford in the late 80s. By the way, nice job on the video
For the highbay light, get a "corncob" style LED replacement. It is not to hard to retrofit old high bays to run on the new LEDs. Simply bypass the ballast completely, run 120 straight to the big ole socket (just like a regular lamp) and insert the new LED bulb. While a bit more expensive up front, the LED pulls less power and turns on immediately, instead of waiting forever for the halide to heat up. An electrical supply house will have a better selection of bulbs.
I actually have one installed in one of my fixtures, it's absolutely useless In here. Seriously. The ceiling is just too dark and high. I could put in a ceiling under the trusses, so many people have told me to do that, but price wise we are talking 25k to do that. More importantly I want the high ceilings, all the cutting and welding makes a lot of smoke and it's nice that it goes up and out the roof vents. Painting the ceiling would help the led light bars I have installed on the model a side of the shop, but those alone with no highbay is still not enough and makes for a cold looking video in my opinion. Maybe I'll do a video on shop lighting one of these days and show everything in detail, see what people suggest. Thanks for the suggestion though! 👍
I just did an engine that had two cylinders the very same way as yours. It came from a Model A guy in the S.E. US. [so I have been told] It's mazing what people will do to cut corners.
Man, I hope you're right bud. I'd hate to see that old block end up as a boat anchor. The rest of it is so nice.
Good luck with it!
The good old days when you could open the hood and see an engine , unlike to day when the engine is hidden under layers of plastic
You can remove the plastic covering though once that is gone you can see much more the same with EVs remove the frunk which is easy and you are treated to some awesome engine for ice and plug ins and innards for EVs that one can modify if one has the skill and money.
I really want to see how this turns out.
its amazing to me to see how little engine design has changed over the years. up untill the 90's a 4 cylinder engine was still pretty much the same as this.
If no one else has commented yet, I suggest that 'S/O' is actually 'O/S' = oversize, so it seems that the engine may have possibly had been re-bored with oversize pistons fitted.
It's also possible that the large damaged area in the cylinder is a factory flaw, probably at the casting stage. How it got past inspection is anybody's guess.
Good vid, and very interesting, thanks.
@Retired Bore Yes, though as it seems that the pistons are maked over-size, the corresponding bore will be O/S too, necessiitating the insertion of cylinder sleeves. I don't think there would be enough material for additional re-boring.
@Retired Bore I'm not too sure how many cylinders are O/S, but it's interesting that you say that the poor quality of some castings was accepted for what they were at that time.
I suppose afterwards, tollerances/quality improved due to the fact lives depended on it during WW2, and these practices were carried over to everyday civilian production, which was not a priority during the 1920's/30's.
Interesting stuff, I'm learning a bit from this thread.
@Retired Bore what's a wet, piston liner?
@Retired Bore I could use a 55 gallon drum full then.
Damn that is one big tear in the cylinder wall. It looks like a wrist pin had a issue in that hole that's too bad but hope it cleans up because it be a shame to toss that block because of that deep scar
Yup workin my way now backwards through the series
Another great video Ben. Glad to see these updates. Keep up the good work!
Ouch, hope everything works out wiht the engine! Ain't seen anything like that since a friend of mine and I tore down a stuck Ford diesel engine out of a tractor once just for giggles. Tractor was junk, transmission had gotten full of water, was rusted solid, all the sheet metal was rusted bad, rear end was froze up, we thought about using the engine for something else but it smoked bad so we took the head off and were like "Oh... Oh no" haha!
I have no idea what condition my 31 coupes engine is inside. She runs good. Watching and learning. Especially interested in inserts vs babbit. Thanks for your content.
I just pulled all 4 pistons in a model A engine and all 4 are marked Ford, with an expansion slit on the side below the rings. Nothing is over or under sized so I doubt if it has ever been rebuilt with one of the 4 having a smaller side opening like that one you show.
Glad you kept that engine, it clearly wanted to live. To me, its worth restoring. But damn that sucks about that hole
Hey, I started watching you by pure luck. . Very nice.
Nice. Never seen a Model A engine tear down.
Fingers crossed on the bore🤞🏽🤞🏽🤞🏽….. let’s hope your calculations are right…… if it’s not can you sleeve it?…. Great work👌🏼
You are doing something that I wish I could do. I would love to learn to overhaul an engine. I could practice on an Air compressor,
I think it works the same as an engine. it is one piston compressor.
Pretty much, except the valves in a compressor are pressure driven by the air inside the cylinder of the compressor. Nothing like the valves in an engine.
Very well done, Great video! Wonder if the gouge was a flaw in the casting?
I see damage like this in old tractors and always try to imagine the stress most of the original operators had. Most were poor and could not afford proper fixes. In the case of tractors, they generally needed the tractor running immediately. So, they did what they had to do, maybe working from their dirt floor in the shop after the cows were milked and move on. In this case, this damage is fortunately lower down in the wall and probably didn't blow by too bad, So, the original owners most likely could only afford to change just the single piston & rod and live with what they had.
Fingers crossed 🤞 buddy!!
the chunk in the cylinder wall I bet would be your wrist pins sliding in the bore in the piston head and slamming against the cylinder wall causing a knocking sound and most likely the reason the car was parked in the first place!
Brilliant video enjoying very interesting
It's a great deal harder to measure the inside of a circle than the outside. Aside from that, my instant thought was porosity.
The technology for sleeving has advanced to the point that that is probably no problem. People worked with what they had.
Great video. Stupid question; how are the valves adjusted?
Man your content is awesome! I bet that made a bang when whatever it was happened to cylinder 4. The math looks about right, I hope. But what do I know?
I reckon that they pulled it apart back in the day and assembled it with the gouge knowing it may be the last work done on the block. Two strokes work with holes in the bore, so, why not?
Just picked up on this project & it has my interest. If you are going the full pressure lube & slipper bearing mod, then of course an alloy head is a must. I have always wondered if a Model 'B' [1932] cylinder head was interchangeable on the 'A' block as I have always preferred the three bolt water pump. In fact, the 1933/'34 model 'C' engine [ also available to special order in fleet vehicles up to about 1937] was a full pressure engine from new.
Your damaged cylinder can be offset bored by a few thou to help ensure that the damage is cleaned up.
Any updates on this engine?
So i have been falling a little behind on Model A videos these days. Now that the season is over here and we are rolling into the winter months, the car and engine will be getting a lot more attention. I've got an engine video coming out here in a day or two, basically just a quick rundown of what i was planning on doing and cleaning the block up for the machine shop. However, i don't think i'm going with the Scat crankshaft in this one any more. What i am going to do is insert bearings in the mains and rods, pressurize just the mains, add counter weights on the Yard Art's stock crankshaft, one piece valve guides and bigger intakes, and of course, an aluminum head! The main reason for going a little cheaper on this one is i actually just picked up a B block, and in the future, that would be the engine i would like to go all out on. Also we did look at cylinder 4 again and yes, offsetting the bore a couple thousandths should definitely take care of any damage. Already got myself a set of .125 over pistons, hopefully machining starts soon. Thanks for your input, should be getting into more on this shortly, also started making parts for a jig to hold the stock crank while welding on the counter weights.
Exploratory surgery is the fun part of any restoration.
You may be way past this by now but I would agree with "Skylinefever" below and would certainly favor a sleeve in #4 rather than take out so much material from all the other cylinders. You have three cylinders with only .040 removed from their original size. 3.915 is exactly .040 over with nothing for clearance beyond .040. Those cylinders may take a hone and provide clearance for new .040 pistons if you sleeve #4 and bore to match. Sure seems like a much more "sustaining" approach. Obviously, totally your decision !!!
Thank you for saying engine and not " motor" . Thanks for knowing how to wear your hat too.....
Looking good cuz, channels growing! 15k 🥳🤯🤘
I thought sleeve installation wasn't such a bad thing here. Plus the sleeves are cast from better stuff than the block is.
Since the other bores measured ~3.915 it means the engine is already +.040
I'd rather fit a sleeve to the damaged bore, then rebore all cylinders to +.060
The more cylinder wall you have left, the more stable the engine is. It is especially valuable on engines as rough as this.
Looks like four Briggs and Stratton blocks molded together.
Flathead was a cheap and simple design for a car engine back in the day. Only the most expensive cars had OHV/OHC engines back when this Model A was built.
Thats from a loose wristpin. Had an engine out of a 65 Datsun 410 that did the same thing.
Was a pinchbolt retained wristpin, pinchbolt had come loose.
That interesting, if I have a fastener that is sketchy I go to the impact to be safe.
I wonder how many times this engine was rebuilt since it came off the assembly line? You can sleeve the bad cylinder and be as good as new.
My guess, that the person, who replace the Piston No 4, even didn't take a look inside the cylinder itself. Just throw away damaged piston, put in the new one, even not the same type, and bolt it back together, fast and simple. I just can not explain it in different way...
The depth of the gouge is just half of it - to keep the piston centered, the bore-out has to be *twice* the gouge depth..
Correct. Can also offset the bore a couple thousands though... should clean up...
Love to see restoration of antique vehicles. Gone are those days when sleeving , Valves resetting, gearboxes made brand new, crown resetting, master wheel cylinders properly checked before discarding, odometer with trip meter for war vehicle the black out lights to camouflage oft air strikes etc.Voltage and current Regulator Autolite and Delco Remy lasting for century.
Today sad to see the use and throw takes upper hand.Worst in some countries the policy of scrapping on age basis has devastated the poors. Pollution test with Catalytic converter for emission norms turn useless. It is heartening to discover Catalytic converter has kilometres guarantee .If the guarantee is 2 lakh km car owners are saved from having to purchase new vehicle.not affordable by middle class
Very nice. 👍🏻
Of course they put it back together like that. Machine shop? They ain't never even heard of a machine shop much less afford one. They just put in a new piston and drove it harder than ever. If they got a chance to run over some dandy whispering about machine shops and cylinder boring, they didn't waste it either! 😅
Looks like you'll be safe with the 4" bore. Math seems good. Is it possible to bore over 4"?
They claim 4" is up there, some people will even argue that's kind of extreme on the forums, but then again there are older guys on there saying the used to punch race motors up to 4.080... getting pretty thin at that point! But they claimed they held up good.
@@rottersgarage If that's true an extra 80 thou is a bunch! All said, don't see you needing a new block. Good luck!
Old damage, ignore the gouge or weld it up, machine it, or sleeve it. It worked before with that damage.
I just admire you.
I'd save that virgin = original dimensions crankshaft. Nickel plate the repaired bores?
So when you finish that motor,Ill expect to see you in N.H. Awesome information Obviously not your 1st time disassembling an A engine.If I only had the knowledge to do so.Keep us informed on your progress.
I've seen guys in India weld a cast iron block. They heat the entire block up red hot and then weld it and machine it.
Imagine working on a year 2020 motor in 94yrs... bolts would probably disintegrate when touching them.
The damage in cylinder 4 looks like a casting defect not something that happened when you ran it. I bet it was there from the factory.
It can be bore and sleeved. Looks like a good block to me.
If I had an entire Model A engine in that shape, I'd be very tempted to cast a custom block out of aluminum and use the rest of the motor with it.
1:22 the order in which you untighten the cilinderheadbolts scares me....
Just get the engine rebuilt get the mains and the rods inserted and put sleeves in the cylinders
I have an idea, maybe the block had a casting defect and it chunked out at some point and time?
I built motors for a living and once destroyed a cylinder buy getting sandblasting grit in it🤣 I wasn't happy,
I think those gouges are recent 🤓
Aah! Back when things were simple!
Overhead valve is a passing fancy. Flatheads rule!
Overhead valve is just as old as the flathead system; it was more expensive to manufacture.
25:34 Even if it's 45 thou deep itt'l run just fine. The biggest concern here is whether or not it breached into the cooling jacket IMO.
Where can I get one of those stud removers? Looks like it works much better than mine!
This is the one I have! Thanks for watching! www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/W83203/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl8anBhCFARIsAKbbpyRKhXXS9GXSOrUEDEMGQ8X0AP5DbF6PVi7VS81r6-qaa4ZamAvqpNwaAp77EALw_wcBwww.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/W83203/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl8anBhCFARIsAKbbpyRKhXXS9GXSOrUEDEMGQ8X0AP5DbF6PVi7VS81r6-qaa4ZamAvqpNwaAp77EALw_wcB
INTERESTING, i WAS IMPRESS BY HOW BIG THE PISTONS ARE, AND THAT CYLINDER SCAR THAT I THINK WAS A FLAW IN THE CASTING.
i see a sleeve in its future
Those engines were famous for oil starvation when running on a slope (hills). I would guess sometime in deep history it threw a rod and gouged that bore. Why it was reassembled so, with that kind of danage is anyone's guess. It may have been repairedon the side of the road from underneath and they just sdid screw it. Times were different
Rocker box? "We" pulled the pistons out?
Do they still make those big fat spark plugs for them engines or do you have to find new ones in NOS or something?
You can have liners installed to fix cylinders.
Marvel mystery oil added to fuel helps lubricant everything on these older engines
Yeah I think reweld and rebore this damaged wall is the only way. Then balance all piston together ( I think they don't balance them, they were AIM at a quick fix ) You can even think to add something like nikasil on the bore. Something that would be extremely good to look at is to find a way to made all of thoose old designed engine to stop eating that mutch oil on regular run... but this is a lot of enginering with the ring :(
What about welding the cylinder wall and boring it afterwards?
I think there are specialists that can laser weld that ...
Interesting - a 5.7 gen 3 hemi has a 3.917 bore too (100.50 mm).