Good tip. Here’s another idea. I have a ‘79 MGB. The repair manual (Haynes) said to place a piece of plastic film over the master cylinder filler and secure the cap over it. No air flow through the vent hole, thus no fluid can escape. Worked perfectly for me. Don’t know if it’s always going to work for others, but worth a try. I’m subscribing to see what else I can learn. Thanks!
@@williamb454 I would suggest halfway down its travel. In all reality if your just off the stop it should work fine. But you don't need to bury it to the floor.
I've been using this method with a fixed length of wood (cut to fit for my car with the seat in always the same position). Your method of making it adjustable is great. I'm going to make me one. T-Y for posting.
Thanks so much. I started filming during covid when the shop slowed down a little. I have around 200 videos filmed. Finally getting them edited. I continue to get better at filming and better equipment too. I plan to post a lot of great content. Your channel looks great also. Subed as well
Well Mike,this trick is going to help me over and over again. Can’t wait to make one of these tools,and while I’m at it,one for my son and son-in-law. You’ve made my brake work a whole lot easier.Love your video’s.
Excellent! I've been replacing all of the brakelines on my 2002 Freightliner Sprinter with nickel-copper, and have been saving the most complext lines for last. The right front wheel, and I will definitely be using this method. Thank you!
@@motormike43 oh sorry mike what I should have said is I boight a set of the plastic pinch off pliers and there still in the box that they came in after watching this video I ordered a brake pedal depressor tool
thanks for mentioning the brake lights. that can be a deal-breaker depending on length of job. I've seen melted sockets and housing from this, and of course dead batteries.
good information for sure sir .....me i just place a piece for plastic wrap under the reservoir cap before removing any parts after the master ....please reply thanks
Great tip, thanks! - and makes sense. Another tip for bleeding brakes on most caliper/rotor systems: When you are ready to bleed the brakes, fill the master cylinder and open the bleed screws on the wheel cylinders, all the ones you want to bleed. Leave the lid off the master cylinder, cover with rag. Don't touch the brake pedal at all, leave it in the 'up' position. Wait. The brake fluid will self-bleed by gravity feed, just keep the master cylinder topped up. I often take a short coffee brake while the brakes are bleeding themselves. Then close the bleed screws when fluid is running clear. This technique does a better job of removing air, and takes about 20 to 30 minutes (often less time). On drum brakes, you still need to pump the pedal to bleed them as usual.
Yes, always gravity bleed first. One at a time or they can fight eachother and draw air in. Open the longest line first till it has a steady drip. close and repeat with next longest line. Then its time to pressure bleed.
Tore out a bunch of brake lines that had factory steel abrasion wrapping wire. Huge mistake. The lines were nearly perfect. The rust was mostly in the wire covering. Became expert again after total brake system rebuild including proportioning valve. Woe, is me.
Yes, often only the very ends at the fitting are the issues. The spring wrapped lines tend to be in good condition throughout. If we decide the majority of the lines are very solid, we cut the spring off in a straight section and flair a repair line in. Never use compression fittings to make a brake line splice. Cut the line ahead of your projected splice location, then easily remove the spring by cutting half way through the spring with a 3' cut off wheel without risking scratching the line inside. Wiggle the spring back and forth a few times and it will break off. Then slide off the end. Hope this helps for anyone reading.
Have used a piece of the silicone rubber that physiotherapists supply for muscle building exercises to seal of the master cylinder top with the lid removed and a thick rubber band around to minimise fluid loss as it is more useful for this purpose that sorting out a frozen shoulder!
I have always used a floor brush with the tip of handle pushing on the pedal then wedge the head of the brush against the back edge of the door opening (front of the b pillar)...handy for checking brake lights too
I built a pneumatic pedal pusher. It takes regulated air hose pressure and pushed out on the pedal. And then retracts. It's plumbed to one of those foot pedals from a sand blaster so when you release the pedal it extends and when you press it retracts. For tough to bleed vehicles like old Porsche I use a pressure bleeder system with my pumper. So I have pressure on the feed side and the flow. But personally I want to get as much fluid out as possible because flushing prevents line rot
I use 2 feet long metal shoe spoon with curled handle at the end so it can dig in the seat on broader surface. After adjusting it on brake pedal I slide the seat forward to press the pedal.
I made one with a 2x4 but the problem with that method is that it keeps the brake lites on too long. and may overheat the bulbs/ run the bettery down...I suppose it would mean disconnecting the brake switch.....dont mean to steal your thunder......I feel that the best way is to plug the brake line.......it seems to be the only way that doesnt have a side-effect
Thank You after working on brakes for many years D.I.Y. my logic was brake pedal pressed equals fluid out, now you have explained this, I will give it a try, thank you, I also have a MGB, will also try the other viewers method, now replacing calipers and pipes on my Z3, will try both ways and which suits best. Thank you for the video. LEN, UK.
And remember folks, take some time every fall to fluid film, wool wax, PB shield, NH undercoat, bar and chain, whatever you prefer to your vehicle. Get it before it starts to rust.
Good video, but it doesn't work on hybrid cars or electric cars. The brake fluid will then be pumped empty by the active brake system at high pressure. It can be stopped with diagnostic equipment.
so ....are the brake lites on when you use that device and press the pedal a little its easy to forget about the brake lites until/if you go behind the vehicle
The amount of times i have cut a piece of wood or used something to jamb the brake pedal and then I find this video with a simple pedla locking tool! ion, after replacing a brake line and refitting the brakes, do you then bleed the brakes using the pedal lock tool or let gravity drip bleed the brakes?
Im thinking this is a great idea because on a rubber brake line if theres an inner piece it could get creased and crushed by the little clamping tools.
Or you can use a very long screwdriver like I do, handle goes against seat head of screwdriver on peddle slide seat forward to hold screw driver in place and pedal is pressed down.
Very cool! Wish I had watched this yesterday before installing new calipers on my friend's truck. p.s. bled the new calipers (rear) for quite a long time and still have a spongy pedal. Any suggestions?
Did you use a pressure or vacuum bleeder? I usually use vacuum but find on some systems it works better with a pressure bleeder. Some ABS systems require an ABS bleed procedure, as well. I hope that helps.
Because you don't draw in excessive air into the brake system and risk getting air into the drained down and now dry master cylinder. Making it so you can then "bleed brakes easy with less air and mess" as the title suggest. Thanks for watching.
hello ok thxz for the reply; i wrote cuz i had a brake pedal that went tot he flor maybe 2months ago w/out warning and then it was good again w/out warning but then once agin it was to the floor and i could not drive safely and so i check the master resovoir it was empty and so i went to my local garage and he inspected the brake lines under my car and the master cylinder resovort ender the hood and said there as a small brake line section at the back passnger side and he replace that section brake line and then he porceded to bleed the brakes screw at that section only and he could not get all the air he said and so he said my brake pedal will still go to the floor but i have no more leaks anywherre and it wont leak but only about less than 10days later i park my car and the brake oil was all on the floor next to my driver side wheel and i have not yet broght it to any garage and not tot the garage who serviced me cuz i dont get what happned; canu possibly help? there is not more brake oil in the master resovoir gain inspite of the brake line repair
Maybe a stupid question, but if I do this, put on a homemade stick/pedal stopper that I make before I loosen any nut from the brake caliper, then I won't have to bleed the brakes when the work is done ?
Any time you open the hydraulic system you have to bleed it afterwards. This will prevent fluid from leaking out the entire time the system is open but not prevent air from getting in. 1 single tiny air bubble in a brake system will effect performance. This will very much limit the amount of air and the loss of fluid. Nothing prevents bleeding. This just makes it easier
Why not drain/replace the fluid, and have good brakes after? Physics teach told me that when 2 liquids [water&brake fluid] mix, you get thicker fluid. Fresh fluid gives good response. No one believes this, I have started bar fights with this one.
100% coming from a experienced mechanic , brake fluid becomes contaminated and spongy and causes calipers to seize up in time . Sometimes I even suck out the brake pot with my shop vacuum and add new before I bleed them .
@@rick980 cant go wrong with a trickle charger , a lot of cars have such small batteries with all that computer crap running ,some have30 modules , if one dosdent fall asleep it will kill your battery ,
7:45 -8:20 min Yes, if it's a multi-hour job I suggest disconnecting the battery or pulling the brake light fuse. Unplugging the brake light switch might even be the easiest option on some vehicles. Many vehicles today do not label the fuse box and disconnecting the battery will lead to extended time resetting radios and clocks.
@@oldbiker9739 Another good option. Im not a fan of leaving battery chargers running when the shop is vacant. A good choice for a long 1 day job. I have actually seen brake light lenses melt from cars being on the alignment machine with the pedal lock on for hours though. If it's going to take more then 2 hours I would suggest disabling the brake lights with a simple battery disconnect.
Good video, maybe try get to the main point of the video sooner, halfway through and I had forgotten why I even started watching. Less is more sometimes. Subbed as well.
I have two comments to make on the down side to this vid! 1, brake fluid is hygroscopic! Which means it attracts water from the atmosphere which inturn damages the brake components due to rust and other contaminates, by doing what you are suggesting the brake fluid in its entirety never gets changed! Or encourages the DIY person not to change the brake fluid 2, the brake lights only come on when the ignition is switched on! Well in Europe it does, is America different?
@@igorpotocnik7231 Igor I have learned a thing here! In England and France the brake lights don't come on unless the ignition key is in the ignition and turned to the respected position!
I believe his video demonstration simply shows how to avoid the MESS of brake fluid everywhere while working on the brake line, especially when you need to make a flare. After reconnecting everything, a complete flush can be done as well. Also, brake fluid is exposed to much larger amount air while simply filling up a master cylinder compared to the amount of air that gets into a tiny 3/16”hole of the brake line.
Over 20 years of experience. I didn't know this trick. That's why I like watch videos of mechanics doing work. You never know what you might learn.
Awesome. This trick is only possible to figure out if you have a deeper understanding of how the brake system works.
Good tip. Here’s another idea. I have a ‘79 MGB. The repair manual (Haynes) said to place a piece of plastic film over the master cylinder filler and secure the cap over it. No air flow through the vent hole, thus no fluid can escape. Worked perfectly for me. Don’t know if it’s always going to work for others, but worth a try. I’m subscribing to see what else I can learn. Thanks!
Thanks for following along. The channel is brand new and I plan on starting to post a consistent flow of good content.
How far is just a little bit?
@@williamb454 I would suggest halfway down its travel. In all reality if your just off the stop it should work fine. But you don't need to bury it to the floor.
SO SMART! Thank you kind sir! Sub’d
I wish I had learned that 40 years ago. Great video
Thanks. My channel is just getting started. Many more videos on the way
When I used to fix cars I used heavy weights like dumbbells against the brake pedal. Since your commercial your tool is awesome. Great vid.
I've been using this method with a fixed length of wood (cut to fit for my car with the seat in always the same position). Your method of making it adjustable is great. I'm going to make me one. T-Y for posting.
Im glad you liked it. Another tool for the tool box
Kinda cool to meet a guy who is just starting the TH-cam game. This one video, and you've got my sub.
Thanks so much. I started filming during covid when the shop slowed down a little. I have around 200 videos filmed. Finally getting them edited. I continue to get better at filming and better equipment too. I plan to post a lot of great content. Your channel looks great also. Subed as well
Well Mike,this trick is going to help me over and over again. Can’t wait to make one of these tools,and while I’m at it,one for my son and son-in-law. You’ve made my brake work a whole lot easier.Love your video’s.
MotorMike I hope you make more vids , your good at it
Excellent!
I've been replacing all of the brakelines on my 2002 Freightliner Sprinter with nickel-copper, and have been saving the most complext lines for last. The right front wheel, and I will definitely be using this method.
Thank you!
First time ever seeing this method, because of this tip i have subbed. Thank-you for the videos.
That pedal block... is amazing... never would I have thought of that
thank you for this tip I had just got a pair of pinch off pliers but i like this better
Plyers work well in a hurry. Be careful using them on older hoses. They can damage the inside of the hose and cause a hydraulic lock up.
@@motormike43 oh sorry mike what I should have said is I boight a set of the plastic pinch off pliers and there still in the box that they came in after watching this video I ordered a brake pedal depressor tool
thanks for mentioning the brake lights. that can be a deal-breaker depending on length of job. I've seen melted sockets and housing from this, and of course dead batteries.
yeah, not something youll want to leave over night.
Thanks....I learned a new trick!
Great. I hope it helps some day.
That is a great idea thanks
Really useful video. I've never ever heard of this technique before so thanks very much.
This is the second mechanic tricks video of yours that I've watched, and my mind was blown both times! (the other with the rusted exhaust bolt vid).
Awesome Tip, excellent video. Thanks.
From the Netherlands, thank you for this video.
good information for sure sir .....me i just place a piece for plastic wrap under the reservoir cap before removing any parts after the master ....please reply thanks
Great tip! I’ve heard of it, but I never knew what a brake pedal depressor was used for. Thanks for sharing!
Great tip, thanks! - and makes sense.
Another tip for bleeding brakes on most caliper/rotor systems: When you are ready to bleed the brakes, fill the master cylinder and open the bleed screws on the wheel cylinders, all the ones you want to bleed. Leave the lid off the master cylinder, cover with rag.
Don't touch the brake pedal at all, leave it in the 'up' position. Wait. The brake fluid will self-bleed by gravity feed, just keep the master cylinder topped up. I often take a short coffee brake while the brakes are bleeding themselves.
Then close the bleed screws when fluid is running clear. This technique does a better job of removing air, and takes about 20 to 30 minutes (often less time).
On drum brakes, you still need to pump the pedal to bleed them as usual.
Yes, always gravity bleed first. One at a time or they can fight eachother and draw air in. Open the longest line first till it has a steady drip. close and repeat with next longest line. Then its time to pressure bleed.
@@motormike43 They do not mention pressure bleeding after gravity bleeding. Are they wrong? th-cam.com/video/gAKBZG9kQPw/w-d-xo.html
Tore out a bunch of brake lines that had factory steel abrasion wrapping wire. Huge mistake. The lines were nearly perfect. The rust was mostly in the wire covering.
Became expert again after total brake system rebuild including proportioning valve. Woe, is me.
Yes, often only the very ends at the fitting are the issues. The spring wrapped lines tend to be in good condition throughout. If we decide the majority of the lines are very solid, we cut the spring off in a straight section and flair a repair line in. Never use compression fittings to make a brake line splice. Cut the line ahead of your projected splice location, then easily remove the spring by cutting half way through the spring with a 3' cut off wheel without risking scratching the line inside. Wiggle the spring back and forth a few times and it will break off. Then slide off the end. Hope this helps for anyone reading.
Just ordered a pedal depressor because of you ! Thank you! I also watch your other Fab channel
Surprised this has not already spread throughout the industry.
the industry is dead as is common sense.
Have used a piece of the silicone rubber that physiotherapists supply for muscle building exercises to seal of the master cylinder top with the lid removed and a thick rubber band around to minimise fluid loss as it is more useful for this purpose that sorting out a frozen shoulder!
I have always used a floor brush with the tip of handle pushing on the pedal then wedge the head of the brush against the back edge of the door opening (front of the b pillar)...handy for checking brake lights too
Handy enough ,as it doubles up for testing brake bulbs to.
Guinness! I know you’re not the first person to come up with this but still, Guinness!!! New subscriber
I built a pneumatic pedal pusher. It takes regulated air hose pressure and pushed out on the pedal. And then retracts. It's plumbed to one of those foot pedals from a sand blaster so when you release the pedal it extends and when you press it retracts. For tough to bleed vehicles like old Porsche I use a pressure bleeder system with my pumper. So I have pressure on the feed side and the flow.
But personally I want to get as much fluid out as possible because flushing prevents line rot
I always used a big screwdriver or combination of extensions to get the right length.
With the addition of sliding the seat too. Although my shop rule is never adjust a customers seat unless you physically can’t fit to test drive
I use 2 feet long metal shoe spoon with curled handle at the end so it can dig in the seat on broader surface. After adjusting it on brake pedal I slide the seat forward to press the pedal.
Great tips. I didnt know about the easy pedal lock either 😄👍
NICE! great job
great video and neat tool!!!!!
handy trick. thanks for watching. Lots more videos coming up!
Cool. Thank you.
Good tip.
Excellent video, thank you for posting. Subbed.
Clever. The biggest takeaway for me is the pedal lock though.
Good tip-thanks-You have some real sweet cars sitting around, you must do good work if they trust those beauties to you.....
Check out my other channel. Phillips Hot Rod and Customs.
Thanks. Great idea!
Good video
Thanks. I hope it helps save you some time and or a mess some day.
Great tip, thanks!
Thanks for sharing 💯
Thank you 👍
I like this very handy
I made one with a 2x4 but the problem with that method is that it keeps the brake lites on too long. and may overheat the bulbs/ run the bettery down...I suppose it would mean disconnecting the brake switch.....dont mean to steal your thunder......I feel that the best way is to plug the brake line.......it seems to be the only way that doesnt have a side-effect
Lets you broke the banjobolt and have to wait a day for a new one. And you just saw this video 12 hours later what should you do bleed all 4 wheels?
Thank You after working on brakes for many years D.I.Y. my logic was brake pedal pressed equals fluid out, now you have explained this, I will give it a try, thank you, I also have a MGB, will also try the other viewers method, now replacing calipers and pipes on my Z3, will try both ways and which suits best. Thank you for the video. LEN, UK.
I just realized after placing the order for the brake pedal depressor tool I could just use the piece of wood that I use to check brake lights
And remember folks, take some time every fall to fluid film, wool wax, PB shield, NH undercoat, bar and chain, whatever you prefer to your vehicle. Get it before it starts to rust.
Excellent!
Good video, but it doesn't work on hybrid cars or electric cars. The brake fluid will then be pumped empty by the active brake system at high pressure. It can be stopped with diagnostic equipment.
Brilliant!
Thanks for the tip
Hope it comes in handy.
As long as there is still pressure in the other half of the plunger keeping pressure on your pipe.
brilliant. Was that tip passed down within the shop? Wonder where it originated.
Wow, nice tip! TIL something new : )
Cool stuff!
so ....are the brake lites on when you use that device and press the pedal a little its easy to forget about the brake lites until/if you go behind the vehicle
The amount of times i have cut a piece of wood or used something to jamb the brake pedal and then I find this video with a simple pedla locking tool! ion, after replacing a brake line and refitting the brakes, do you then bleed the brakes using the pedal lock tool or let gravity drip bleed the brakes?
Im thinking this is a great idea because on a rubber brake line if theres an inner piece it could get creased and crushed by the little clamping tools.
i used to always clamp hoses. It bit me twice in the past. Never again
Genius!
Wow. New info.
Or you can use a very long screwdriver like I do, handle goes against seat head of screwdriver on peddle slide seat forward to hold screw driver in place and pedal is pressed down.
Very cool! Wish I had watched this yesterday before installing new calipers on my friend's truck. p.s. bled the new calipers (rear) for quite a long time and still have a spongy pedal. Any suggestions?
Did you use a pressure or vacuum bleeder? I usually use vacuum but find on some systems it works better with a pressure bleeder. Some ABS systems require an ABS bleed procedure, as well. I hope that helps.
Make sure calipers are correct way round, bleed screw at the top
Mike re the brake light could you just puta battery charger on as well?
Yes that works. I do this for up to an hour without draining the battery too low.
Hello great video but how isvthis about bleeding the brake? Lisa thank you
Because you don't draw in excessive air into the brake system and risk getting air into the drained down and now dry master cylinder. Making it so you can then "bleed brakes easy with less air and mess" as the title suggest. Thanks for watching.
hello ok thxz for the reply; i wrote cuz i had a brake pedal that went tot he flor maybe 2months ago w/out warning and then it was good again w/out warning but then once agin it was to the floor and i could not drive safely and so i check the master resovoir it was empty and so i went to my local garage and he inspected the brake lines under my car and the master cylinder resovort ender the hood and said there as a small brake line section at the back passnger side and he replace that section brake line and then he porceded to bleed the brakes screw at that section only and he could not get all the air he said and so he said my brake pedal will still go to the floor but i have no more leaks anywherre and it wont leak but only about less than 10days later i park my car and the brake oil was all on the floor next to my driver side wheel and i have not yet broght it to any garage and not tot the garage who serviced me cuz i dont get what happned; canu possibly help? there is not more brake oil in the master resovoir gain inspite of the brake line repair
Will that when before you disconnect the line?
Before or after doesn’t matter. It will just drip until it’s depressed.
Maybe a stupid question, but if I do this, put on a homemade stick/pedal stopper that I make before I loosen any nut from the brake caliper, then I won't have to bleed the brakes when the work is done ?
Any time you open the hydraulic system you have to bleed it afterwards. This will prevent fluid from leaking out the entire time the system is open but not prevent air from getting in. 1 single tiny air bubble in a brake system will effect performance. This will very much limit the amount of air and the loss of fluid. Nothing prevents bleeding. This just makes it easier
7:45 * in some cars* Other cars leave them off if the key isn't in the ignition.
Why not drain/replace the fluid, and have good brakes after? Physics teach told me that when 2 liquids [water&brake fluid] mix, you get thicker fluid. Fresh fluid gives good response. No one believes this, I have started bar fights with this one.
100% coming from a experienced mechanic , brake fluid becomes contaminated and spongy and causes calipers to seize up in time . Sometimes I even suck out the brake pot with my shop vacuum and add new before I bleed them .
I think it’s easier to replace the fluid when the master cylinder hasn’t already pulled air into the system
Disconnect the switch
Not a really friendly option on most newer vehicles but will work for some.
Nifty
Let’s go brandon 🍦🍦🍦
A. 10
👍👌
I learned that trick from Harley Davidson in 1994 .
something taught at a Factory Training Class?
@@motormike43 yes
How about a trickle charger I left one on my 72 Chevy pickup all winter in the garage
@@rick980 cant go wrong with a trickle charger , a lot of cars have such small batteries with all that computer crap running ,some have30 modules , if one dosdent fall asleep it will kill your battery ,
When you become my age you’ll be called “God”
Bro.
You will have to disconnect the battery because your brake lights will stay on
7:45 -8:20 min Yes, if it's a multi-hour job I suggest disconnecting the battery or pulling the brake light fuse. Unplugging the brake light switch might even be the easiest option on some vehicles. Many vehicles today do not label the fuse box and disconnecting the battery will lead to extended time resetting radios and clocks.
@@motormike43 just hook up a battery charger
@@oldbiker9739 Another good option. Im not a fan of leaving battery chargers running when the shop is vacant. A good choice for a long 1 day job. I have actually seen brake light lenses melt from cars being on the alignment machine with the pedal lock on for hours though. If it's going to take more then 2 hours I would suggest disabling the brake lights with a simple battery disconnect.
@@motormike43 I have LED lights
Plug it with a pencil.
Swapping an ABS pump with 6 pencils 🤔 technically you’ll only need 2
How about using silicone ear plug?
Good video, maybe try get to the main point of the video sooner, halfway through and I had forgotten why I even started watching. Less is more sometimes. Subbed as well.
its not a secret anymore ...buddy😀
boy, you're long winded.
I have two comments to make on the down side to this vid!
1, brake fluid is hygroscopic! Which means it attracts water from the atmosphere which inturn damages the brake components due to rust and other contaminates, by doing what you are suggesting the brake fluid in its entirety never gets changed! Or encourages the DIY person not to change the brake fluid
2, the brake lights only come on when the ignition is switched on!
Well in Europe it does, is America different?
It must be different here in the US, the brake lights work without the key in the ignition.
I'm from Slovenia and brake lights on my Mitsubishi Colt come on even when the car is locked (I push the brake pedal through the open window).
@@igorpotocnik7231 Igor I have learned a thing here!
In England and France the brake lights don't come on unless the ignition key is in the ignition and turned to the respected position!
@@mikelane4896Good for you, Mike, I wish it was the same with my car.
I believe his video demonstration simply shows how to avoid the MESS of brake fluid everywhere while working on the brake line, especially when you need to make a flare. After reconnecting everything, a complete flush can be done as well. Also, brake fluid is exposed to much larger amount air while simply filling up a master cylinder compared to the amount of air that gets into a tiny 3/16”hole of the brake line.
I use golf tees.
While your cutting and flaring the line with a golf tee in the end? I’d like to see a video of that.
Doesnt work