@@briancook2234 😂 Luckily I was doing it for myself, my wife is the one that tells me...."Yeah right it is going to take you 20 mins.... Me 5 hours later...babe I'm done". The main reason to remove everything is that I was taking the knuckle to a shop to get the bearing replaced. Sometimes doing a repair while recording a video adds time as well...but yeah I take my sweet time 😂 thanks for the feedback. (Luckily I didn't record my Odyssey timing belt replacement....took me about 13hrs following a paper instructions and DIY videos on TH-cam.)
DONT WASTE YOUR TIME DOING UNNECESSARY STEPS. All you need to do is: 1.) take the brake line clip off of the shock to free the line. 2.) Take out the shock to knuckle bolt. 3.) Take out the axle bolt Now pull the shock out of the knuckle and you have plenty of room to free the axle. Don't WASTE money on an axle puller either. You can free it with anything. I use a big wrench. This is a 15 minute job.
That is literally the proper procedure by manufacturer. Im pretty sure my guy was trying to figure out why the car pulled to one side and had just replaced all steering stabilizing components thats why he found it easy that way 😂
I bet you have a shop and a lift 😂. Nah, if you are working off a floor Jack and Jack stands like he and I did, you would need this. If I have a lift then yeah, I can cut corners.
@@VegasModel removing the whole knuckle. You can remove any top or bottom of it and have enough leverage to get that out, but in my opinion removing the whole thing makes the job easier.
Did you need to change the seal we see at 5:08 ? If yes did it come with the new axle or did you have to buy it appart ? If you have the name or part number that would be awesome !
I didn't have to replace the seal, I believe the name is output shalf seal, here is the part # OEM www.jimellismazdaparts.com/products/Mazda/2004/Mazda-3/Seal-Axle-Shaft/1853326/F00327238C.html Any questions let me know.
@@catpawjack7687 Had to use a 1000 ft/lb impact set at 600 to get the drivers side nut off. 4 ft cheater bar with heat wouldn't budge it. Also, these nuts have the raised lip that is chiseled into the divit on the hub end, so be sure to stick a chisel or screwdriver into the bent piece and straighten it out before trying to turn the nut.
Great video! Why did you remove the upper front end link? I don’t see anything attached to the knuckle (on the strut) as the bottom link end connects to the sway bar. Curious and maybe others can skip this step like I’m going to try to lol
Good thing. Someone asked me a few years ago and the answer was that in my case barely nothing came out, but it will be a good idea to keep that in mind in case a lot of fluid is lost.
@willgoogwalker2586 good advice to any viewer watching the video. Appreciate the input 👍 I was looking for the question asked, and it was about a year ago, it actually looked like I had a tray to catch the oil and I put the same amount on the tray + a bit more. Sometimes these projects are so far back that I forget how It was set up.😂
Can a bad CV axle cause steering wheel shake and cause it to pull to one side? Ive jacked up the car and everything looks good except cv axle has some play on the same side car is wanting to drift off too. Not a crazy amount of play but more than the pass side. Tia
Steering wheel shake, could be balancing, if shake while braking is bad rotors. The pulling could be alignment. Doesn't sound like a bad cv in your case.
@@kaimanson3174 When breaking it's been an issue for a while (didn't replace rotors when I replaced pads not a big deal) but shaking when driving just started. I had my wheels balanced and that didn't fix the issue. The shaking when driving comes and goes while driving. Will go away when giving it gas but as soon as i touch the brakes or let it cruise while in gear it starts shaking. I know it's hard to answer since you don't have eyes on it but if you have any advice I'll take it lol
@@diyaj9607 try to rotate the tires rear to the front and front to the rear and see if that makes difference, I have heard of aftermarket CV having some vibration problem while accelerating, but you can feel it in the whole car as well as on the steering wheel. If the problem started with the CV that you already had, then most likely is something else but the CV.
@@kaimanson3174 I rotated the tires before taking my car to a shop to get the wheels balanced, tires have less than 10k miles on them, and the CV joints I'm not sure how old they are. I've had the car for the past 30k miles but it's at 273k now, lol. I'll start slapping new parts on till I find the problem. Thanks for the help man
For some reason my Axle won’t go in…I’ve seen some guy push it in I’ve tried it and nothing, I’ve tried with a rubber mallet and nothing as well it just doesn’t want to go in, I’ve done it on my 2004 Manual Mazda 3 and it went in easily but on this 2008 Automatic Mazda 3 it won’t go in…
Compare it with the old one to make sure is the same, specially at the end that goes into the transmission. Mine came with some kind of dust shield that the old one didn't have.
Hi i am going to do this on my 2004 mazda 3 ! Do you remember if the seal had to be changed and if it came with the axle? Do you know the name of the seal ? Pls help i dont find anything about axle seal all i found was input/output shaft seal but i dont know wich one it is ! If it even needs to be changed 😅
Sorry for the long delay guys, I have heard some horror stories at the mazda3 forum. Luckily in my case it came out easy. Some heat (torch) might help.
Presuming you solved this long ago, but for anyone else: Use cold to shrink the axle and heat to expand the wheel hub. Put the whole thing in a deep freeze (or fridge if that's all you've got). If you can't fit it, then take ziplock bags of alcohol or soap and chill them in the freezer. Then wrap them around the axle (wrap with a towel to hold them) once it's nice and cold (minimum of 20min, but longer is better), remove from cold, and use a blowtorch on wide slower setting to heat the wheel hub (not the axle). Make sure to move the torch around and heat evenly & slowly (don't want to risk cracking anything) Make sure you have a decent place to support the wheel while you pound it down/out.
Just an update nearly a year later, I was never able to get it off haha. Ended up putting it all together and getting a mechanic to take it off. Even the mechanic said that it was strange how seized mine was to the hub. To this day I still have my replacement driveshaft sitting in my bedroom to remind me of my failure 😂
@@aidankreltszheim3599 CV Axle Lock Nut (Mazda’s Manufactured after December 2004) - 173.5 to 202.3 ft lbs. Low Control Arm Pinch Bolt - 31.8 to 43.3 ft lbs. Strut Bolt - 65 ft lbs. Tie Rod Bolt - 27.5 to 37.1 ft lbs. Lug Nuts - 65 to 86.73 ft lbs. Caliper Bolts - 57.9 to 75.2 ft lbs. Sliding Caliper Pin - 19 to 22 ft lbs. Stabilizer Control Link - 31.2 to 44.3 ft lbs.
I don't remember how much exactly was it, but I believe I had a tray underneath and fill it up with the same amount that was on the tray + a bit more. Fluid was OEM Mazda transmission fluid for the 04. I can check to see if I still have the bottle.
@@kaimanson3174 Hey my bad I used the incorrect word...I actually rounded the nut/bolt and as far as I can tell...it didn't move at all. This would work for a mazda 3 2010 as well? Same person btw I was just too lazy to switch back over lol. 9YA0-21-430B 9YA0-21-20HD Are the two parts I was looking at for 2010.
@@Pilelr55 if you were trying to remove it and rounded up then try to get a replacement before removing it completely. The bolt/nut for the 2010 is a different part #.
Ive never seen someone take so many things off before for a 15min job lol how long did that take u an hour? Talk about milking the clock 😅
@@briancook2234 😂 Luckily I was doing it for myself, my wife is the one that tells me...."Yeah right it is going to take you 20 mins.... Me 5 hours later...babe I'm done". The main reason to remove everything is that I was taking the knuckle to a shop to get the bearing replaced. Sometimes doing a repair while recording a video adds time as well...but yeah I take my sweet time 😂 thanks for the feedback. (Luckily I didn't record my Odyssey timing belt replacement....took me about 13hrs following a paper instructions and DIY videos on TH-cam.)
DONT WASTE YOUR TIME DOING UNNECESSARY STEPS. All you need to do is:
1.) take the brake line clip off of the shock to free the line.
2.) Take out the shock to knuckle bolt.
3.) Take out the axle bolt
Now pull the shock out of the knuckle and you have plenty of room to free the axle. Don't WASTE money on an axle puller either. You can free it with anything. I use a big wrench. This is a 15 minute job.
Exactly
Thank you, Appreciate the feedback. 👍This might help someone else in the future.
That is literally the proper procedure by manufacturer. Im pretty sure my guy was trying to figure out why the car pulled to one side and had just replaced all steering stabilizing components thats why he found it easy that way 😂
@@jhonnyboyy7394 my issue was a noisy bearing and the click click noisy CV axle when turning.
I bet you have a shop and a lift 😂. Nah, if you are working off a floor Jack and Jack stands like he and I did, you would need this. If I have a lift then yeah, I can cut corners.
Love the step by step and tool breakdown you make so far the best vids for the youtube mechanic
Happy to help 👍
I agree, this person made an excellent video!
@@princeofcars thank you so much, happy to help 👍
Nice! Forgot Trans Fluid though! :>)
Someone else brought it up as well a few months ago. I believe I may have added some later on. Appreciate the reminder for other viewers.👍
So it's a really good video but brother removing the Saybar and the join was enough to make everything move bro
True, I was just replacing the bearing as well, and took the long route. But hey brother thanks for sharing 👍
So is there a part I can skip iow?
@@VegasModel removing the whole knuckle. You can remove any top or bottom of it and have enough leverage to get that out, but in my opinion removing the whole thing makes the job easier.
Did you need to change the seal we see at 5:08 ? If yes did it come with the new axle or did you have to buy it appart ? If you have the name or part number that would be awesome !
I didn't have to replace the seal, I believe the name is output shalf seal, here is the part # OEM www.jimellismazdaparts.com/products/Mazda/2004/Mazda-3/Seal-Axle-Shaft/1853326/F00327238C.html
Any questions let me know.
FYi for those watching, the axle/hub nut for our 2008 Mazda 3 S is 1-1/4", not the 13MM seen here. Much bigger nut!!
your comment, right on time
@@catpawjack7687 Had to use a 1000 ft/lb impact set at 600 to get the drivers side nut off. 4 ft cheater bar with heat wouldn't budge it. Also, these nuts have the raised lip that is chiseled into the divit on the hub end, so be sure to stick a chisel or screwdriver into the bent piece and straighten it out before trying to turn the nut.
Thank you for the input. Didn't know there was a change by years.
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise with the community!
Happy to help 👍
I don't ever tap on the brake rotor with anything metallic unless I'm just going to throw it away.
100% with you. If it needs to be reused then better to put a piece of wood in between or rubber mallet.👍
Great video!
Why did you remove the upper front end link? I don’t see anything attached to the knuckle (on the strut) as the bottom link end connects to the sway bar.
Curious and maybe others can skip this step like I’m going to try to lol
Thanks, great question. It was because I was replacing the wheel bearing as well. So I ended up taking the whole thing out. Happy to help 👍
Great video, do you know the opening width of the puller? Is it 48mm? Thank you!
Happy to help 👍, I gotta have that tool somewhere in the garage. I'll check and let you know.
Worked like a charm. Way better than the prybar.
Happy to help 👍,
Good evening
Just wonder if you can show for 05 mazda 3 2.3L
The transmission pressure switch sensor? Thank you
Hi Pedro, sorry for the delay. Sadly I had the 2.0.
Nice video but there’s easier ways to replace a cv axle Scotty kilmer
The legend :)
Impressive.
Happy to help 👍
Wow! Tremendo trabajo 👍
Asi es, muchas gracias. Cualquier pregunta me dejas saber.
You forgot the extra step at the end to add oil to the transmission to replace what was lost.
Good thing. Someone asked me a few years ago and the answer was that in my case barely nothing came out, but it will be a good idea to keep that in mind in case a lot of fluid is lost.
@@kaimanson3174 The amount of oil I see coming out at 5:05 in the video is definitely worth replacing.
@willgoogwalker2586 good advice to any viewer watching the video. Appreciate the input 👍 I was looking for the question asked, and it was about a year ago, it actually looked like I had a tray to catch the oil and I put the same amount on the tray + a bit more. Sometimes these projects are so far back that I forget how It was set up.😂
😂 I saw that!
3:24 -> 6:20 that whole setup looks new
Yeah, I did the lower control arm, cv joint and the stabilizer sway bar as well.
Can a bad CV axle cause steering wheel shake and cause it to pull to one side? Ive jacked up the car and everything looks good except cv axle has some play on the same side car is wanting to drift off too. Not a crazy amount of play but more than the pass side. Tia
Steering wheel shake, could be balancing, if shake while braking is bad rotors. The pulling could be alignment. Doesn't sound like a bad cv in your case.
@@kaimanson3174 When breaking it's been an issue for a while (didn't replace rotors when I replaced pads not a big deal) but shaking when driving just started. I had my wheels balanced and that didn't fix the issue. The shaking when driving comes and goes while driving. Will go away when giving it gas but as soon as i touch the brakes or let it cruise while in gear it starts shaking. I know it's hard to answer since you don't have eyes on it but if you have any advice I'll take it lol
@@diyaj9607 try to rotate the tires rear to the front and front to the rear and see if that makes difference, I have heard of aftermarket CV having some vibration problem while accelerating, but you can feel it in the whole car as well as on the steering wheel. If the problem started with the CV that you already had, then most likely is something else but the CV.
@@kaimanson3174 I rotated the tires before taking my car to a shop to get the wheels balanced, tires have less than 10k miles on them, and the CV joints I'm not sure how old they are. I've had the car for the past 30k miles but it's at 273k now, lol. I'll start slapping new parts on till I find the problem. Thanks for the help man
For some reason my Axle won’t go in…I’ve seen some guy push it in I’ve tried it and nothing, I’ve tried with a rubber mallet and nothing as well it just doesn’t want to go in, I’ve done it on my 2004 Manual Mazda 3 and it went in easily but on this 2008 Automatic Mazda 3 it won’t go in…
Compare it with the old one to make sure is the same, specially at the end that goes into the transmission. Mine came with some kind of dust shield that the old one didn't have.
@@kaimanson3174 yeah for some reason the one the Autoparts store sold us didn’t work so just got another OEM part instead of aftermarket
@@ScubaDubaDave good to hear, sometimes that can happen. Glad u found the solution.
Hi i am going to do this on my 2004 mazda 3 ! Do you remember if the seal had to be changed and if it came with the axle? Do you know the name of the seal ? Pls help i dont find anything about axle seal all i found was input/output shaft seal but i dont know wich one it is ! If it even needs to be changed 😅
My driveshaft is stuck in my wheel hub. I’ve tried hammering and everything and I can’t remove it from the hub. Any help please?
Did you ever get it? I’m having the same problem right now.
Sorry for the long delay guys, I have heard some horror stories at the mazda3 forum. Luckily in my case it came out easy. Some heat (torch) might help.
Presuming you solved this long ago, but for anyone else: Use cold to shrink the axle and heat to expand the wheel hub.
Put the whole thing in a deep freeze (or fridge if that's all you've got). If you can't fit it, then take ziplock bags of alcohol or soap and chill them in the freezer. Then wrap them around the axle (wrap with a towel to hold them)
once it's nice and cold (minimum of 20min, but longer is better), remove from cold, and use a blowtorch on wide slower setting to heat the wheel hub (not the axle). Make sure to move the torch around and heat evenly & slowly (don't want to risk cracking anything)
Make sure you have a decent place to support the wheel while you pound it down/out.
Just an update nearly a year later, I was never able to get it off haha. Ended up putting it all together and getting a mechanic to take it off. Even the mechanic said that it was strange how seized mine was to the hub. To this day I still have my replacement driveshaft sitting in my bedroom to remind me of my failure 😂
Not so sure about your front brake system. Unless this is just a demo...
What in specific with the brakes? Provide more information so I can give you some feedback. Appreciate 👍
Do you need to top up the trans fluid afterwards?
Keep an eye on how much fluid is lost while replacing the axle and refill it
@@kaimanson3174 also what is the torque spec for the wheel hub nut
@@aidankreltszheim3599
CV Axle Lock Nut (Mazda’s Manufactured after December 2004) - 173.5 to 202.3 ft lbs.
Low Control Arm Pinch Bolt - 31.8 to 43.3 ft lbs.
Strut Bolt - 65 ft lbs.
Tie Rod Bolt - 27.5 to 37.1 ft lbs.
Lug Nuts - 65 to 86.73 ft lbs.
Caliper Bolts - 57.9 to 75.2 ft lbs.
Sliding Caliper Pin - 19 to 22 ft lbs.
Stabilizer Control Link - 31.2 to 44.3 ft lbs.
@@kaimanson3174 Thanks for taking the time to share that for all of us DIY mechanics.
@@andrewstambaugh240 anytime brother, happy to help 👍 any question let me know.
Great video.. how much fluid did you loose? and what type? and where to refill it?
I don't remember how much exactly was it, but I believe I had a tray underneath and fill it up with the same amount that was on the tray + a bit more. Fluid was OEM Mazda transmission fluid for the 04. I can check to see if I still have the bottle.
You already had the car on jack stands when you started the video. How come you didn’t show how you jacked it up and lowered it onto the jack stands?
Correct the car was already on the jacks.
What is that nut or bolt called at 2:20? I stripped it and I’m not sure what to replace it with.
I'll recommend replace it. I won't even recommend driving the car until that bolt or nut is replaced. The part # 9YA02121A, any question let me know.
@@kaimanson3174 Hey my bad I used the incorrect word...I actually rounded the nut/bolt and as far as I can tell...it didn't move at all. This would work for a mazda 3 2010 as well? Same person btw I was just too lazy to switch back over lol.
9YA0-21-430B
9YA0-21-20HD
Are the two parts I was looking at for 2010.
@@Pilelr55 if you were trying to remove it and rounded up then try to get a replacement before removing it completely. The bolt/nut for the 2010 is a different part #.
@@Pilelr55 Looks to be part 9YA0-01-007
@@kaimanson3174 Thanks so much for not only coming back to this thread but taking time to help me find the part #.