I recently, did an oil change on my 07 that led me to new passenger/driver side CV axles, after that I also realized that she’ll also be needing new control arms, inner/ outer tie rods.. Thank you for your hard work and informative video. Btw you’ll also be needing new axles 😉
@@chriswilson1215 I got down there and saw the damaged CV boots, they had already failed completely and all the grease had already fallen out of the remaining part, when I took them off, they snapped like a wishbone. So thank God I checked when I did, could have been ALOT worse.
@@neonchronik7359 oh okay, was only wondering because i have an 07 3 hatchback and ive been trying to chase a shake that used to come on around 50 and after doing all 3 mounts i can feel it at slower speeds. And sometimes when i am going at a constant speed and let off the throttle you can feel the steering wheel shake.. not sure what it is..i work at a mazda dealer and ive had a couple of our techs look at it and they say everything is tight..
1) the part at 3:20 is very important. I installed it without using jack and it did NOT seated right. 2) getting the arm positioned so that the bolts caught the threads took me an hour per arm, 3) You do NOT have to take off caliper or rotor - plenty of space with them on.
did this on the driver side of my rusty 2008 mazda 3. Was a BITCH. None of the bolts ever lined up, I spent all day trying to get it on. Wish me luck on the passenger side
@@elChopsyday three of trying to figure out how to get the bolt closest towards the ac compressor do you have any tips because it doesn’t wiggle out at all
@@GREER2from memory mine started to come out when I was undoing it just like the video. It was getting everything back together I found to be the struggle 😅
@@GREER2 pretty sure you have to take the bolt out of the transmission mount so you can use a prybar to move the motor forward to get the bolt out. All these videos only show one side and never the side you have to do this too.
Take the three bolts off the AC Compressor shield, remove shield, then raise engine slightly with jack and block of wood. Then, you don't need to remove the engine bolt. I haven't done it yet, but other videos show this route. Looks somewhat easier.
Pretty good video. Just stop putting thread locker on everything. It doesn’t need it, especially on caliper bolts. Bolts stretch when done up and what’s what keeps them tight.
not on this model, some have that , some dont. When you get your control arms you will see there are two options, just check your car before purchasing.
@@bobsoft depends on the model I suppose. I put the floor jack under the motor and jacked it up. There was enough room without having to remove the motor torsion bolt, that hack saved me hours of messing with the extra step. Start to finish in 3.5 hours for both front lower control arms. I only had youtube as my guide. Replacing the control arms was the biggest project I have attempted to date.
@@bobsoft That's the official way. The Mazda manual has this - the 'No.1 engine mount' how they refer to the one at the lower rear of the engine. When working on the right side of LF engine vehicles, move the engine and transaxle slightly towards the front side of the vehicle so that the engine does not interfere with the removal of the lower arm rear side bolt. 1. Remove the No.1 engine mount center bolt. (LF engine vehicles) 2. Move the engine and transaxle slightly towards the front side of the vehicle. (LF engine vehicles) 3. Remove the front lower arm rear side bolt. 4. Remove the front lower arm.
I got my old control arm and ball joint off but when I tried using the jack to push the new one through it only went halfway in and now I can’t figure out how to get it pressed in all the way. Any tips anyone ?
I love watching these videos but hate the fact that on pretty much everyone one I have seen across you there is never a rusted bolt, a rounded bolt and everything comes apart easily. Then you settle down with your video and your spanners and reality bites.
I have looked @ many removal/installs you properly showed how to torque, thanks
Thanks. You saved me about 300 bucks in labor.
Well this saves me about 700 getting a mechanic to replace it lol thanks man
Thanks for this video, really helped me!
Wonderful tutorial! Thank you. You’re my guide
Thanks, this helped me a lot.
Great video. Thanks for making 👍
great video, thanks
I recently, did an oil change on my 07 that led me to new passenger/driver side CV axles, after that I also realized that she’ll also be needing new control arms, inner/ outer tie rods.. Thank you for your hard work and informative video. Btw you’ll also be needing new axles 😉
Why did you have to replace yours?
@@chriswilson1215 I got down there and saw the damaged CV boots, they had already failed completely and all the grease had already fallen out of the remaining part, when I took them off, they snapped like a wishbone. So thank God I checked when I did, could have been ALOT worse.
@@neonchronik7359 oh okay, was only wondering because i have an 07 3 hatchback and ive been trying to chase a shake that used to come on around 50 and after doing all 3 mounts i can feel it at slower speeds. And sometimes when i am going at a constant speed and let off the throttle you can feel the steering wheel shake.. not sure what it is..i work at a mazda dealer and ive had a couple of our techs look at it and they say everything is tight..
@@chriswilson1215 hey I had this same issue it is most likely your wheel itself it could be out of balance your rim or tires
@@chriswilson1215 or lower control arm
Thanks for the video. Where did you buy the control arm?
1) the part at 3:20 is very important. I installed it without using jack and it did NOT seated right. 2) getting the arm positioned so that the bolts caught the threads took me an hour per arm, 3) You do NOT have to take off caliper or rotor - plenty of space with them on.
Makes it look super easy
This look very simple. Very nice technics.
Just about to do this on my mazda
Nice
did this on the driver side of my rusty 2008 mazda 3. Was a BITCH. None of the bolts ever lined up, I spent all day trying to get it on. Wish me luck on the passenger side
I feel you there. Took my 3 hours to get the new control arm in 😅 hopefully the other side isn't as bad today
@@elChopsyday three of trying to figure out how to get the bolt closest towards the ac compressor do you have any tips because it doesn’t wiggle out at all
@@GREER2from memory mine started to come out when I was undoing it just like the video. It was getting everything back together I found to be the struggle 😅
@@GREER2 pretty sure you have to take the bolt out of the transmission mount so you can use a prybar to move the motor forward to get the bolt out. All these videos only show one side and never the side you have to do this too.
Take the three bolts off the AC Compressor shield, remove shield, then raise engine slightly with jack and block of wood. Then, you don't need to remove the engine bolt. I haven't done it yet, but other videos show this route. Looks somewhat easier.
This also works for the Volvo c30 in case anyone was wondering.
Same flat form
same platform and also the mk2 ford focus
Pretty good video. Just stop putting thread locker on everything. It doesn’t need it, especially on caliper bolts. Bolts stretch when done up and what’s what keeps them tight.
easy when you do it
How come you removed and reinserted the front bolt so easy? The ac compressor is kinda in the way?
not on this model, some have that , some dont. When you get your control arms you will see there are two options, just check your car before purchasing.
Un do the rear motor mount and then pry the engine forward to make room for removing the bolt when equipped with A/C
@@bobsoft depends on the model I suppose. I put the floor jack under the motor and jacked it up. There was enough room without having to remove the motor torsion bolt, that hack saved me hours of messing with the extra step. Start to finish in 3.5 hours for both front lower control arms. I only had youtube as my guide. Replacing the control arms was the biggest project I have attempted to date.
@@bobsoft That's the official way. The Mazda manual has this - the 'No.1 engine mount' how they refer to the one at the lower rear of the engine.
When working on the right side of LF engine vehicles, move the engine and transaxle slightly towards the front side of the vehicle so that the engine does not interfere with the removal of the lower arm rear side bolt.
1. Remove the No.1 engine mount center bolt. (LF engine vehicles)
2. Move the engine and transaxle slightly towards the front side of the vehicle. (LF engine vehicles)
3. Remove the front lower arm rear side bolt.
4. Remove the front lower arm.
I got my old control arm and ball joint off but when I tried using the jack to push the new one through it only went halfway in and now I can’t figure out how to get it pressed in all the way. Any tips anyone ?
Where the ball join connects to the hub drive a chisels in the gap so that it spreads it wider for easier entry
Does he mention not to pull the cv joint apart, because his is trash?
Where’s all the rust?
So much thread locker
big bolt
how bought some new disks next😂
I love watching these videos but hate the fact that on pretty much everyone one I have seen across you there is never a rusted bolt, a rounded bolt and everything comes apart easily.
Then you settle down with your video and your spanners and reality bites.
Looks like u never use your brakes xD by the way how looks disc , i guess brakes only for the cowards XD