Engine work, suspension work, electrical work...no big deal. But changing an axle has always been a fear of mine for some reason haha. Thanks for making it easier on my mental, this looks easy!
I see your comment is from 3 years ago, this comment is anyone wo does this for the first time, I recently changed mine on passenger side, ill be honest now that i think about the step by step its so fing easy haha but if its the first time od it like me i waited until the end of the week so i dont need the car, and on friday i just took everything apart then i got stuck with the axle i couldnt take it off so i went to bed i played some videogames and i went to sleep next day now rested and with calm i was able to take it off, after that i had to install the new one but again i got stuck so another day went by and finally on sunday i was able to install the new part and my car was ready to roll, just wait un til you dont need your card for a couple days cause if you dont do this everyday youll get frustrated just like me.
Great job man. I have been a mechanic for over 40 years and retired some time ago. I have been doing odd jobs on my kid's cars and all of my nephew's cars. The one i am doing now is a 2018 Mazda3 Touring. I did the breaks and they definitely needed replacement, but having never drove the car until after i finished , i hear a swooshing, grinding sound when turning to the right and sometimes hear a clicking sound when accelerating. I looked at the top strut bearing nut which i heard comes lose and it was fine. I'm thinking it may be the CV joint or wheel bearing hub which is my next repair. I'm sure you know, but you can use a small amount of spline grease on the outer shaft spline of the CV joint shaft. It is better use than anti seize since anti seize is meant more for static parts that don't move and it offers no anti friction protection on splines. I am very glad you torqued your fasteners. great work! And great camera work to your wife!
Easier way to remove the stubborn strut without much effort. Place a steel shim washer or what you can in the slot where the pinch bolt closes in the steering knuckle. The thread the bold in from the backside until it hits the shim and gently expand the pinch joint and the strut will easily slip out.
A little long you can Losby I didn’t need to see Hayground down the tool. I figured that I’ll just by seeing the two but I do appreciate the video has helped quite a bit. It’s been 25 years since I’ve replace a CV joint.
You saved us with this video. My husband spent hours trying to put in the new cv shaft. I showed him this video and he got it in within a minute. Thank you so much for posting this
Thanks for posting. I thought my CV axel was damaged because there is so much play. Watching you and all the movement of the your new axel was quite reassuring.
They have a lot of play but they are not supposed to come off, i had a clacking sound on my car and i supposed it was the cv joint but i hit a pothole so i realized later it was way more damage in the entire cv axle, so as i was taking of the wheel and the head boom my cv axle just fell appart x,x luckily i got the new one for like 1300 pesos wich is like 80 bucks and i fixed it the same weekend
Thanks! Great video, simple, well filmed! Thanks Mrs Wife! As for the other comments about should have done this or that.... there is always more way than 1 to do most things.
Thank you! I have a strut spreader now to make the job a lot easier, but if I didn't I'd definitely disconnect the ball joint instead if doing this again.
And I did what another commentor said and I put a jack under the yolk and lifted it while tapping it with a hammer to slide it back on the tower. Works great.
Don't forget to stake your wheel nut when done torquing to 190 ft lbs. Just use a flathead screwdriver to knock a bit of the lip of the nut into the keyway on the end of the CV stub. For safety!
Note, if you move or twist your strut during uninstall. Make sure you twist it back to original positioning before you insert strut into knuckle. You'll never be able to adjust it once inside knuckle. You will have to drop the knuckle to re- center.
Aha, you fond the solution! I tried that piece too but since it was loaned to me I could not grind on it. I ended up making one out of 3/8 plate a a few whacks and it was out. Im getting a sloppy fitting on the passenger side off the cross shaft. Im wondering if I dont have it seated all the way? It slides about 4mm on the cross shaft and I think it should be solid. Compress axle and smack it with a sledge and a block of wood?
I have found that to put the shock back in, I would put a jack underneath like you did, and then put a decent amount of pressure and tap on the sides of the hub and it slips in
Very nice video, and your wife did a great job filming. I would have used the floor jack to raise the lower control arm into place, rather than just supporting it during the pounding. And to avoid having to do this job again in the future, this would have been the perfect time to replace the output shaft seal. Nevertheless, well done.
@6:59 Just need to know what fluid came out when i pulled my driver side axle out. More came out when i started vehicle with the axle out. 2020 cx5 awd thanks
Why would you need to start the vehicle with the axle out? O_O. That is transmission fluid that comes out of the transmission. About a half a quart came out of mine.
It would be easier to replace the cv axle by removing the lower control arm first, then pulling the cv axle out. Afterward, install the new cv axle, get the ball joint of the lower control arm in the steering knuckle first. You may use a a jack stand to support the lower control arm, you may then bolt the lower control arm back.
Easy to be a back seat referee; But I would definitely have undone the lower ball joint pinch bolt. If you're gonna go from the top, why not just unbolt the top of the strut and push the whole thing down with strut attached to knuckle. Easier than trying to re-align the bottom of strut back into knuckle.
I actually agree with you on the ball joint,it's much easier to separate the ball joint than do what I did. I'd also separate the tie rod from the knuckle. The top mounting bolts for the strut are also for camber alignment, so if you mess with those you should probably get the car aligned.
Easier way to remove that shock in less than a minute is using a strut spreader. You can cut the sides of a bolt to make an oval shape, put it in the back and twist it
@@nolig22782were you talking about the metal cup on the shaft right against the cv joint housing on the axle? The silver cup thing that sits outside the transmission and in front of the axle seal? If so, pretty sure that is to keep dust away from the axle seal.
what led you to believe you needed to replace the CV axle. can you describe the sound? i have a kinda frog croaking sound when i turn and accelerate quickly at the same time. wondering if its the joints or something. thanks for the vid.
Mine was bad, real bad. Would have vibration, and sometimes clacking noise, and crunching kind of noise when going very slow at lights start and stop. Almost done with mine! Just have to push the axle in and checking this video and others again to make sure I only push against in good situations to keep all the parts good.
I've done this before on a Mazda 5 , there's no reason to remove the strut that's just wasted time & too much extra work , just need to pop the ball joint out
I've done 2 front passenger and 1 driver cv axle on my mazda 3.. No it does not get easier every time. Is it just me or this car/model requires a lot much maintenance?
I’ve dealt with much needier vehicles (06 Aveo, 97 Escort, 98 Grand Am, 93 Golf) . That being said, this was the most challenging driveshaft I’ve ever done.This car was fairly low maintenance until it turned 10 years old last year. I’m pretty sure it needs a new AC condenser before we get into the summer months.
@@416diy The Arizona heat destroyed both sun visor and dash board in mine. At 80k miles I think the timing chain cover gasket was leaking oil. I ignored it and sealed off by it self. lol I am at 135k miles now though. I think ill get at least another 50k miles on it.
fucking a - I let mine sit for 3 years and everything was rusted when I started driving it. All the shit I had to replace was a nightmare. My hondas seemed easier to work on, less down time and parts a bit cheaper too! Only thing I like about the mazda - it's got more room inside and the trunk doesn't leak. Wait 'till you try to replace the heater blower!
Wait til you have to try to change the alternator or tensioner pulley. PITA of a job considering the frame gets in the way of completely removing the bolts so you need to snake the things out & back in with some bolts already in
i have a question. if you may help please. I pulled our the driver side CV axel and black fluid (Which looks like oi, not red and doesn't smell like transmission) came out. my oil isn't as dirty so i think its a separate compartment for this? do i pump a special oil in? or will it cycle engine oil into it once I run it?
What if no fluid came out after removing cv axle driver side.but transmission fluid is on the right level.any reason why didn’t have any fluid spilled out
I might be missing what you are asking exactly, but to change transmission fluid, or for anyone else in question coming upon your question: - drain out the Alan bolt on the bottom of the transmission oil pan, - put Alan bolt back in snug but not too tight. - Then fill with how much came out(I do a half a quart less than came out and then check Trans oil level while car is running and warmed up, then fill to between the lines on transmission dip stick). You never want to overfill. If you do it’s no big deal, just undo the transmission Alan bolt on the bottom of the transmission oil pan a little bit to let some out. - I don’t know if this does anything for a transmission oil change but I rev the engine gradually to 2k rpm a few times for a second. Then I also shift through all the gears a couple times to move the fluid around. (Don’t know if it does anything though to shift gears as I think that might only use clutch(brake) fluid) - check trans oil level a couple times throughout that day or next day, look for any fluid coming out the Alan bolt plug or on the ground.
Great video,I have the same car ,same repair ,even the color. Fwd puller is the problem . Don't they make a piece that actually fits Mazdas! Thanks for the video
Jezus everyone takes the balljoint off...I was wondering if it can be done without doing that since everytime I change my coilovers (twice a year...winter set up, non-winter set up) I try to make sure the axle isn't pulling.
@@416diy I’ve done that method and usually allows you to take the axle out when you turn the spindle farther than it could with the tie rod in. Just discovered the inner boot somehow leaking between the boot and the axle, under the clamp - though nothing is torn and nothing is loose. It’s a slight leak so it’s just gonna wait till spring at this point
Engine work, suspension work, electrical work...no big deal. But changing an axle has always been a fear of mine for some reason haha. Thanks for making it easier on my mental, this looks easy!
Take your time. Walk away if you get frustrated. Take pics, keep nuts on loose bolts
I see your comment is from 3 years ago, this comment is anyone wo does this for the first time, I recently changed mine on passenger side, ill be honest now that i think about the step by step its so fing easy haha but if its the first time od it like me i waited until the end of the week so i dont need the car, and on friday i just took everything apart then i got stuck with the axle i couldnt take it off so i went to bed i played some videogames and i went to sleep next day now rested and with calm i was able to take it off, after that i had to install the new one but again i got stuck so another day went by and finally on sunday i was able to install the new part and my car was ready to roll, just wait un til you dont need your card for a couple days cause if you dont do this everyday youll get frustrated just like me.
Thanks, I used this video to replace my cv axle. Best video I could find.
Great job man. I have been a mechanic for over 40 years and retired some time ago. I have been doing odd jobs on my kid's cars and all of my nephew's cars. The one i am doing now is a 2018 Mazda3 Touring. I did the breaks and they definitely needed replacement, but having never drove the car until after i finished , i hear a swooshing, grinding sound when turning to the right and sometimes hear a clicking sound when accelerating. I looked at the top strut bearing nut which i heard comes lose and it was fine. I'm thinking it may be the CV joint or wheel bearing hub which is my next repair. I'm sure you know, but you can use a small amount of spline grease on the outer shaft spline of the CV joint shaft. It is better use than anti seize since anti seize is meant more for static parts that don't move and it offers no anti friction protection on splines. I am very glad you torqued your fasteners. great work! And great camera work to your wife!
Easier way to remove the stubborn strut without much effort. Place a steel shim washer or what you can in the slot where the pinch bolt closes in the steering knuckle. The thread the bold in from the backside until it hits the shim and gently expand the pinch joint and the strut will easily slip out.
Simple and genius. I was thinking of tapping some kind of wedge in there to spread it, but this is so much better. Thanks!
A little long you can Losby I didn’t need to see Hayground down the tool. I figured that I’ll just by seeing the two but I do appreciate the video has helped quite a bit. It’s been 25 years since I’ve replace a CV joint.
Really good vid. Wish I would have watched this one first. Time to grind my CV tool.
I wasted so many hours trying to figure out how to get that tool into position. The puller attachment is so much thicker than it needs to be.
@@416diy Mine is marked 48mm and there is not way I could grind away enough to have that claw slip in. Think Im sol for today
You saved us with this video. My husband spent hours trying to put in the new cv shaft. I showed him this video and he got it in within a minute. Thank you so much for posting this
It's borderline impossible to do without the right tool. Happy to help, please subscribe!
Thanks to you and your wife for an excellent video. You helped remind me about how to do this job.
I've never seen anyone remove what you did
Very smart
Thanks for posting. I thought my CV axel was damaged because there is so much play. Watching you and all the movement of the your new axel was quite reassuring.
They have a lot of play but they are not supposed to come off, i had a clacking sound on my car and i supposed it was the cv joint but i hit a pothole so i realized later it was way more damage in the entire cv axle, so as i was taking of the wheel and the head boom my cv axle just fell appart x,x luckily i got the new one for like 1300 pesos wich is like 80 bucks and i fixed it the same weekend
Thanks! Great video, simple, well filmed! Thanks Mrs Wife!
As for the other comments about should have done this or that.... there is always more way than 1 to do most things.
Thank you! I have a strut spreader now to make the job a lot easier, but if I didn't I'd definitely disconnect the ball joint instead if doing this again.
And I did what another commentor said and I put a jack under the yolk and lifted it while tapping it with a hammer to slide it back on the tower. Works great.
This one popped out quite easily with a large crowbar. I got lucky!
@@Mikechrisx20 .
I always look to replace the axle seals. I do admit its a hassle, but not as much as having to take it apart again
Don't forget to stake your wheel nut when done torquing to 190 ft lbs. Just use a flathead screwdriver to knock a bit of the lip of the nut into the keyway on the end of the CV stub. For safety!
2:35 "It's too easy so far" Lord is that relatable
Note, if you move or twist your strut during uninstall. Make sure you twist it back to original positioning before you insert strut into knuckle. You'll never be able to adjust it once inside knuckle. You will have to drop the knuckle to re- center.
Very informal video and detailed
Much appreciated
Might try to tackle my girls Mazda axles one of these days thank you
informative
Aha, you fond the solution! I tried that piece too but since it was loaned to me I could not grind on it. I ended up making one out of 3/8 plate a a few whacks and it was out. Im getting a sloppy fitting on the passenger side off the cross shaft. Im wondering if I dont have it seated all the way? It slides about 4mm on the cross shaft and I think it should be solid. Compress axle and smack it with a sledge and a block of wood?
I have found that to put the shock back in, I would put a jack underneath like you did, and then put a decent amount of pressure and tap on the sides of the hub and it slips in
Having a strut spreader tool helps a lot as well. I demonstrate how to use that in my Mazda 3 strut replacement video.
when taking the front struts out you can put the lower strut bolt in from the back side to make the gap bigger and thus easier to hammer out
Very nice video, and your wife did a great job filming. I would have used the floor jack to raise the lower control arm into place, rather than just supporting it during the pounding. And to avoid having to do this job again in the future, this would have been the perfect time to replace the output shaft seal. Nevertheless, well done.
I just used the claw attachment on the end of the axle and pulled it worked for me on both sides u don't need to grind that attachment
Dancing bench grinders are FUN!
Bravo. That took a lot of bonks.
Hold the axle level when pulling....you on't need a puller either.
Thank you for your video it helped out alot.
@6:59 Just need to know what fluid came out when i pulled my driver side axle out. More came out when i started vehicle with the axle out.
2020 cx5 awd thanks
Why would you need to start the vehicle with the axle out? O_O. That is transmission fluid that comes out of the transmission. About a half a quart came out of mine.
@@GMoney-B cool. at this point I have no idea why I started it- maybe just to see what happened. Thanks!
@@joelclark9163 haha. Fun experiment! Haha.
It would be easier to replace the cv axle by removing the lower control arm first, then pulling the cv axle out. Afterward, install the new cv axle, get the ball joint of the lower control arm in the steering knuckle first. You may use a a jack stand to support the lower control arm, you may then bolt the lower control arm back.
Easy to be a back seat referee; But I would definitely have undone the lower ball joint pinch bolt. If you're gonna go from the top, why not just unbolt the top of the strut and push the whole thing down with strut attached to knuckle. Easier than trying to re-align the bottom of strut back into knuckle.
I actually agree with you on the ball joint,it's much easier to separate the ball joint than do what I did. I'd also separate the tie rod from the knuckle. The top mounting bolts for the strut are also for camber alignment, so if you mess with those you should probably get the car aligned.
Mine 6spd manual. If I put in reverse let clutch out fast makes 1 bang noise. Forward gears not a smooth clutch release. 118000 mi what do you think
Am I the only one to notice the spiral grooves on the old and new axles are in opposite directions, when they are laid against each other?
thank you very much
Why are you replacing the whole drive shaft?. Was it clicking when turning or thumping?. Why didn't you just replace the boots?.
More work than it’s worth. I did a boot job once, never again.
why remove the knuckle?
Just undo the lower ball joint and swivel the hub to the right and pull the cv axle out, a big smack with a wedge and hammer will pop right out
Why would you take the suspension out of the knuckle why wouldn't you just pop the ball joint out and the tie rod?
Easier way to remove that shock in less than a minute is using a strut spreader. You can cut the sides of a bolt to make an oval shape, put it in the back and twist it
Looks like I owe you a beer, I didn’t know such a tool existed, adding that to my collection for sure. Thanks for sharing!
@@416diy I usually make my own with a bolt, it makes the strut come right out!
How did you get the strut back into the kunckle? Mine is like that when your putting the strut in in this video. It will not go into the knuckle.
Is the metal ring needed that pushes against the oil seal? Good video BTW!
Metal ring? Are you referring to the little c-clip? If so, yes it is required.
@@416diy Not the C clip, the metal ring between oil seal and the body of the axle.
@@nolig22782were you talking about the metal cup on the shaft right against the cv joint housing on the axle? The silver cup thing that sits outside the transmission and in front of the axle seal? If so, pretty sure that is to keep dust away from the axle seal.
@@GMoney-B yea that metal cup like thing.
what led you to believe you needed to replace the CV axle. can you describe the sound? i have a kinda frog croaking sound when i turn and accelerate quickly at the same time. wondering if its the joints or something. thanks for the vid.
It wasn't a sound, the outer boot was cracking. I wanted to replace it before it broke open and made a greasy mess.
Mine was bad, real bad. Would have vibration, and sometimes clacking noise, and crunching kind of noise when going very slow at lights start and stop. Almost done with mine! Just have to push the axle in and checking this video and others again to make sure I only push against in good situations to keep all the parts good.
What is the number of splines
I've done this before on a Mazda 5 , there's no reason to remove the strut that's just wasted time & too much extra work , just need to pop the ball joint out
I've done 2 front passenger and 1 driver cv axle on my mazda 3.. No it does not get easier every time. Is it just me or this car/model requires a lot much maintenance?
I’ve dealt with much needier vehicles (06 Aveo, 97 Escort, 98 Grand Am, 93 Golf) . That being said, this was the most challenging driveshaft I’ve ever done.This car was fairly low maintenance until it turned 10 years old last year. I’m pretty sure it needs a new AC condenser before we get into the summer months.
@@416diy The Arizona heat destroyed both sun visor and dash board in mine. At 80k miles I think the timing chain cover gasket was leaking oil. I ignored it and sealed off by it self. lol I am at 135k miles now though. I think ill get at least another 50k miles on it.
fucking a - I let mine sit for 3 years and everything was rusted when I started driving it. All the shit I had to replace was a nightmare. My hondas seemed easier to work on, less down time and parts a bit cheaper too! Only thing I like about the mazda - it's got more room inside and the trunk doesn't leak. Wait 'till you try to replace the heater blower!
Wait til you have to try to change the alternator or tensioner pulley. PITA of a job considering the frame gets in the way of completely removing the bolts so you need to snake the things out & back in with some bolts already in
Good job.
good video thanks
i have a question. if you may help please. I pulled our the driver side CV axel and black fluid (Which looks like oi, not red and doesn't smell like transmission) came out. my oil isn't as dirty so i think its a separate compartment for this? do i pump a special oil in? or will it cycle engine oil into it once I run it?
If you removed your axle and fluid came out of that hole, that is transmission fluid.
@@416diy thanks btw. guys at AutoZone weren't able to tell me that.
Unfortunately, having any knowledge of actual auto repair is not a requirement to work at AutoZone.
What if no fluid came out after removing cv axle driver side.but transmission fluid is on the right level.any reason why didn’t have any fluid spilled out
Hi are mazda 3 2006 1.6 and 2.0 shared the same axle?
Should be very similar, if not the same.
How much atf did you end up losing from this job? Want to make sure I have enough on hand before I tackle it. Thanks for sharing!!
I want to say around half a litre, or 1 pint. You should be fine with a quart on hand.
@@416diy Thanks a bunch! Stay safe and well! 😃
How do you change transmission fluid.. Did you have to take the sway bar link off
I might be missing what you are asking exactly, but to change transmission fluid, or for anyone else in question coming upon your question:
- drain out the Alan bolt on the bottom of the transmission oil pan,
- put Alan bolt back in snug but not too tight.
- Then fill with how much came out(I do a half a quart less than came out and then check Trans oil level while car is running and warmed up, then fill to between the lines on transmission dip stick). You never want to overfill. If you do it’s no big deal, just undo the transmission Alan bolt on the bottom of the transmission oil pan a little bit to let some out.
- I don’t know if this does anything for a transmission oil change but I rev the engine gradually to 2k rpm a few times for a second. Then I also shift through all the gears a couple times to move the fluid around. (Don’t know if it does anything though to shift gears as I think that might only use clutch(brake) fluid)
- check trans oil level a couple times throughout that day or next day, look for any fluid coming out the Alan bolt plug or on the ground.
Great video,I have the same car ,same repair ,even the color. Fwd puller is the problem . Don't they make a piece that actually fits Mazdas! Thanks for the video
I haven't had the chance to try the axle popper forks yet, but I'd be curious to see if they fit in there.
Jezus everyone takes the balljoint off...I was wondering if it can be done without doing that since everytime I change my coilovers (twice a year...winter set up, non-winter set up) I try to make sure the axle isn't pulling.
Disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle and this job becomes even easier
@@416diy Good to know! Thanks for the heads up!
@@416diy I’ve done that method and usually allows you to take the axle out when you turn the spindle farther than it could with the tie rod in. Just discovered the inner boot somehow leaking between the boot and the axle, under the clamp - though nothing is torn and nothing is loose. It’s a slight leak so it’s just gonna wait till spring at this point
I had to used chisel in the back to get strut out
I had to hammer on those shocks for hours to get them out to replace them lmao. And thats on a Florida car
I miss Florida, can’t wait to get back there one day.
That little picking 😂
I can’t get the fuckin axle bolt thing right now it’s so annoying 😂😂
So many cut scenes... ?!
That was some really dirty transmission fluid