Mazda3 Gen 1+2 driver side CV axle replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ต.ค. 2020
- Applies to Mazda3 up to and including 2013. SLIGHT TOOL MODIFICATION REQUIRED! This would have been a dead simple job if the cv fork adapter fit, but I wasted a lot of time trying to make it fit before giving up and grinding the sides down.
Another way to make this job easier is if you disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle. If you do that you can twist the knuckle side to side, making removal from the strut much quicker. Looking back I wish I had done that.
The slide hammer and fork adapter cost me about CDN $130 (same price as the driveshaft), so it may not make economical sense to DIY this job. However, if you already have a slide hammer or can borrow one free from your local parts store, fork adapters can usually be found for around $30.
Torque specs (ft lbs):
Strut-knuckle pinch bolt: 50
axle nut: 190
brake caliper bracket-knuckle bolts: 75
brake caliper mounting pins: 22
wheel nuts: 86
Special tools required:
1/2" drive torque wrench
32mm 1/2" drive socket
slide hammer
OTC 7507 CV joint removal adapter (or similar)
Mazda M5 ATF to replace any lost fluid (if auto trans) - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thanks to you and your wife for an excellent video. You helped remind me about how to do this job.
Engine work, suspension work, electrical work...no big deal. But changing an axle has always been a fear of mine for some reason haha. Thanks for making it easier on my mental, this looks easy!
Take your time. Walk away if you get frustrated. Take pics, keep nuts on loose bolts
I see your comment is from 3 years ago, this comment is anyone wo does this for the first time, I recently changed mine on passenger side, ill be honest now that i think about the step by step its so fing easy haha but if its the first time od it like me i waited until the end of the week so i dont need the car, and on friday i just took everything apart then i got stuck with the axle i couldnt take it off so i went to bed i played some videogames and i went to sleep next day now rested and with calm i was able to take it off, after that i had to install the new one but again i got stuck so another day went by and finally on sunday i was able to install the new part and my car was ready to roll, just wait un til you dont need your card for a couple days cause if you dont do this everyday youll get frustrated just like me.
Thanks, I used this video to replace my cv axle. Best video I could find.
Easier way to remove the stubborn strut without much effort. Place a steel shim washer or what you can in the slot where the pinch bolt closes in the steering knuckle. The thread the bold in from the backside until it hits the shim and gently expand the pinch joint and the strut will easily slip out.
Simple and genius. I was thinking of tapping some kind of wedge in there to spread it, but this is so much better. Thanks!
A little long you can Losby I didn’t need to see Hayground down the tool. I figured that I’ll just by seeing the two but I do appreciate the video has helped quite a bit. It’s been 25 years since I’ve replace a CV joint.
You saved us with this video. My husband spent hours trying to put in the new cv shaft. I showed him this video and he got it in within a minute. Thank you so much for posting this
It's borderline impossible to do without the right tool. Happy to help, please subscribe!
I've never seen anyone remove what you did
Very smart
Very informal video and detailed
Much appreciated
Might try to tackle my girls Mazda axles one of these days thank you
informative
Bravo. That took a lot of bonks.
Really good vid. Wish I would have watched this one first. Time to grind my CV tool.
I wasted so many hours trying to figure out how to get that tool into position. The puller attachment is so much thicker than it needs to be.
@@416diy Mine is marked 48mm and there is not way I could grind away enough to have that claw slip in. Think Im sol for today
Thanks for posting. I thought my CV axel was damaged because there is so much play. Watching you and all the movement of the your new axel was quite reassuring.
They have a lot of play but they are not supposed to come off, i had a clacking sound on my car and i supposed it was the cv joint but i hit a pothole so i realized later it was way more damage in the entire cv axle, so as i was taking of the wheel and the head boom my cv axle just fell appart x,x luckily i got the new one for like 1300 pesos wich is like 80 bucks and i fixed it the same weekend
Thanks! Great video, simple, well filmed! Thanks Mrs Wife!
As for the other comments about should have done this or that.... there is always more way than 1 to do most things.
Thank you! I have a strut spreader now to make the job a lot easier, but if I didn't I'd definitely disconnect the ball joint instead if doing this again.
And I did what another commentor said and I put a jack under the yolk and lifted it while tapping it with a hammer to slide it back on the tower. Works great.
This one popped out quite easily with a large crowbar. I got lucky!
@@Mikechrisx20 .
Thank you for your video it helped out alot.
Don't forget to stake your wheel nut when done torquing to 190 ft lbs. Just use a flathead screwdriver to knock a bit of the lip of the nut into the keyway on the end of the CV stub. For safety!
when taking the front struts out you can put the lower strut bolt in from the back side to make the gap bigger and thus easier to hammer out
Dancing bench grinders are FUN!
Good job.
good video thanks
I just used the claw attachment on the end of the axle and pulled it worked for me on both sides u don't need to grind that attachment
I have found that to put the shock back in, I would put a jack underneath like you did, and then put a decent amount of pressure and tap on the sides of the hub and it slips in
Having a strut spreader tool helps a lot as well. I demonstrate how to use that in my Mazda 3 strut replacement video.
Note, if you move or twist your strut during uninstall. Make sure you twist it back to original positioning before you insert strut into knuckle. You'll never be able to adjust it once inside knuckle. You will have to drop the knuckle to re- center.
thank you very much
2:35 "It's too easy so far" Lord is that relatable
How did you get the strut back into the kunckle? Mine is like that when your putting the strut in in this video. It will not go into the knuckle.
@6:59 Just need to know what fluid came out when i pulled my driver side axle out. More came out when i started vehicle with the axle out.
2020 cx5 awd thanks
I always look to replace the axle seals. I do admit its a hassle, but not as much as having to take it apart again
Easy to be a back seat referee; But I would definitely have undone the lower ball joint pinch bolt. If you're gonna go from the top, why not just unbolt the top of the strut and push the whole thing down with strut attached to knuckle. Easier than trying to re-align the bottom of strut back into knuckle.
I actually agree with you on the ball joint,it's much easier to separate the ball joint than do what I did. I'd also separate the tie rod from the knuckle. The top mounting bolts for the strut are also for camber alignment, so if you mess with those you should probably get the car aligned.
Just undo the lower ball joint and swivel the hub to the right and pull the cv axle out, a big smack with a wedge and hammer will pop right out
How do you change transmission fluid.. Did you have to take the sway bar link off
Mine 6spd manual. If I put in reverse let clutch out fast makes 1 bang noise. Forward gears not a smooth clutch release. 118000 mi what do you think
Hold the axle level when pulling....you on't need a puller either.
Am I the only one to notice the spiral grooves on the old and new axles are in opposite directions, when they are laid against each other?
Easier way to remove that shock in less than a minute is using a strut spreader. You can cut the sides of a bolt to make an oval shape, put it in the back and twist it
Looks like I owe you a beer, I didn’t know such a tool existed, adding that to my collection for sure. Thanks for sharing!
@@416diy I usually make my own with a bolt, it makes the strut come right out!
Is the metal ring needed that pushes against the oil seal? Good video BTW!
Metal ring? Are you referring to the little c-clip? If so, yes it is required.
@@416diy Not the C clip, the metal ring between oil seal and the body of the axle.
what led you to believe you needed to replace the CV axle. can you describe the sound? i have a kinda frog croaking sound when i turn and accelerate quickly at the same time. wondering if its the joints or something. thanks for the vid.
It wasn't a sound, the outer boot was cracking. I wanted to replace it before it broke open and made a greasy mess.
Very nice video, and your wife did a great job filming. I would have used the floor jack to raise the lower control arm into place, rather than just supporting it during the pounding. And to avoid having to do this job again in the future, this would have been the perfect time to replace the output shaft seal. Nevertheless, well done.
why remove the knuckle?
How much atf did you end up losing from this job? Want to make sure I have enough on hand before I tackle it. Thanks for sharing!!
I want to say around half a litre, or 1 pint. You should be fine with a quart on hand.
@@416diy Thanks a bunch! Stay safe and well! 😃
Great video,I have the same car ,same repair ,even the color. Fwd puller is the problem . Don't they make a piece that actually fits Mazdas! Thanks for the video
I haven't had the chance to try the axle popper forks yet, but I'd be curious to see if they fit in there.
Why would you take the suspension out of the knuckle why wouldn't you just pop the ball joint out and the tie rod?
i have a question. if you may help please. I pulled our the driver side CV axel and black fluid (Which looks like oi, not red and doesn't smell like transmission) came out. my oil isn't as dirty so i think its a separate compartment for this? do i pump a special oil in? or will it cycle engine oil into it once I run it?
If you removed your axle and fluid came out of that hole, that is transmission fluid.
@@416diy thanks btw. guys at AutoZone weren't able to tell me that.
Unfortunately, having any knowledge of actual auto repair is not a requirement to work at AutoZone.
What if no fluid came out after removing cv axle driver side.but transmission fluid is on the right level.any reason why didn’t have any fluid spilled out
Don't remove the knuckle from the Strut, just undo the tie rod end from the knuckle and undo the lower ball joint using a cheap ball joint splitter. (not a pickle fork) Using a slide hammer on a drive shaft is nuts, it can jam the locking ring against the inside lip of the gearbox, use a cold chisel and small hammer instead.
@ 2:58 th-cam.com/video/34t26Fd4HTg/w-d-xo.html
What is the number of splines
It would be easier to replace the cv axle by removing the lower control arm first, then pulling the cv axle out. Afterward, install the new cv axle, get the ball joint of the lower control arm in the steering knuckle first. You may use a a jack stand to support the lower control arm, you may then bolt the lower control arm back.
I had to hammer on those shocks for hours to get them out to replace them lmao. And thats on a Florida car
I miss Florida, can’t wait to get back there one day.
Hi are mazda 3 2006 1.6 and 2.0 shared the same axle?
Should be very similar, if not the same.
I've done 2 front passenger and 1 driver cv axle on my mazda 3.. No it does not get easier every time. Is it just me or this car/model requires a lot much maintenance?
I’ve dealt with much needier vehicles (06 Aveo, 97 Escort, 98 Grand Am, 93 Golf) . That being said, this was the most challenging driveshaft I’ve ever done.This car was fairly low maintenance until it turned 10 years old last year. I’m pretty sure it needs a new AC condenser before we get into the summer months.
@@416diy The Arizona heat destroyed both sun visor and dash board in mine. At 80k miles I think the timing chain cover gasket was leaking oil. I ignored it and sealed off by it self. lol I am at 135k miles now though. I think ill get at least another 50k miles on it.
fucking a - I let mine sit for 3 years and everything was rusted when I started driving it. All the shit I had to replace was a nightmare. My hondas seemed easier to work on, less down time and parts a bit cheaper too! Only thing I like about the mazda - it's got more room inside and the trunk doesn't leak. Wait 'till you try to replace the heater blower!
Wait til you have to try to change the alternator or tensioner pulley. PITA of a job considering the frame gets in the way of completely removing the bolts so you need to snake the things out & back in with some bolts already in
That little picking 😂
Jezus everyone takes the balljoint off...I was wondering if it can be done without doing that since everytime I change my coilovers (twice a year...winter set up, non-winter set up) I try to make sure the axle isn't pulling.
Disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle and this job becomes even easier
@@416diy Good to know! Thanks for the heads up!
@@416diy I’ve done that method and usually allows you to take the axle out when you turn the spindle farther than it could with the tie rod in. Just discovered the inner boot somehow leaking between the boot and the axle, under the clamp - though nothing is torn and nothing is loose. It’s a slight leak so it’s just gonna wait till spring at this point
I had to used chisel in the back to get strut out
So many cut scenes... ?!
That was some really dirty transmission fluid
I can’t get the fuckin axle bolt thing right now it’s so annoying 😂😂