Another video recommended wrapping the shaft with Saran Wrap before pushing the boot onto the shaft. This to keep contaminants from getting on the seam to be glued.
Forgot to mention in the video to clean the CV Joint, and the bearing itself, spend some time, using the carb. cleaner, compressed air, and so on. but this is a really important step that you need to make sure it's done properly! Good luck!
I would not use carb cleaner. that may stay inside the joint and ruin the grease? Better to push some new grease through and lean off residual. then properly repack the grease. And if your boot never broke and the grease is clean, a good cleaning and new grease should suffice.
I'm sure this can be useful in some scenarios. However, considering you just uncouple the engine side CV joint and slide a new boot for both joints, after you cleaned and greased both joints thoroughly, and you'll have a much more permanent and well done job, I feel like going with that solution is better.
Plenty of people on many vids say you should remove all the old grease since it is contaminated. But, I don't see how contaminants can get in the boot. Despite grease being exploded everywhere, my CV boot has no visible point of entry. Have experienced mechanics seen water, grit, salt, or oil get inside a boot that looks secure (but obviously leaks)?
You glued it together before the install. How does that make sense?
Starting at 7:09, there is a note at the bottom of the video. He did the other side AFTER getting the boot on the axle.
You need to pay attention better. No he did not glue both sides before installing. Silly azz.
If that’s how your brain works you better off paying someone to do it. Too dumb for the job.
Another video recommended wrapping the shaft with Saran Wrap before pushing the boot onto the shaft. This to keep contaminants from getting on the seam to be glued.
Thanks for the detailed information, I was thinking about just replacing the boot instead of the axle. This gave me a good idea on what it takes.
I was thinking can it be an easier way. Specially for a car that i don't really care😂. Nice. Thanks for the info.
Forgot to mention in the video to clean the CV Joint, and the bearing itself, spend some time, using the carb. cleaner, compressed air, and so on. but this is a really important step that you need to make sure it's done properly! Good luck!
I would not use carb cleaner. that may stay inside the joint and ruin the grease?
Better to push some new grease through and lean off residual. then properly repack the grease. And if your boot never broke and the grease is clean, a good cleaning and new grease should suffice.
I'm sure this can be useful in some scenarios. However, considering you just uncouple the engine side CV joint and slide a new boot for both joints, after you cleaned and greased both joints thoroughly, and you'll have a much more permanent and well done job, I feel like going with that solution is better.
Plenty of people on many vids say you should remove all the old grease since it is contaminated. But, I don't see how contaminants can get in the boot. Despite grease being exploded everywhere, my CV boot has no visible point of entry. Have experienced mechanics seen water, grit, salt, or oil get inside a boot that looks secure (but obviously leaks)?
You glued it together before installation. I saw that.
A tip You Can take a nedle a inject The gease in The booth
I dont.know man rubber looks too hard i dont know if it will last a yr.
This is only temporary fix and waste of money 👍🏻
Wet the blade when cutting rubber.
How much?
check the description.
Beli di mana?
L I K E 👍👍👍👍👍👍💯💯💯😻😻😻😻
Thanks! That was a fun project, and easy to work with!
They don’t last. Don’t waste you time!!!
Mine looks just fine, i have the zip-ties on it as well, it’s been more than a year and 5k mi. So this is working fine for me.
All good but you took hours