Make sure the bushing sleeve on lower control arm, that the center of bushing is not removed with existing offset bolt. Took a small pipe wrench and rust buster to remove sleeve from offset bolt that was installed on a bench vise. You can put bushing sleeve back in or replace both lower bushings (which require removal of the lower control arm). To tighten new bolt I took a cheap 1 1/8 - 1/2 inch thin wall socket and ground the end circumference down to get into the 1 7/8 bolt head that you removed the center from. I used a large washer to install the sleeve back into its rubber bushing and left the washer there after tightening the nylon nut which will put the sleeve into its correct position within the rubber bushing.
I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video. I just did this job on my 64 Galaxie 500. You don't HAVE to take the control arm loose at the back if the bushings are ok.
The only problem I've seen with doing this way, which we did a number of was the bushings working loose and by reaming out the one side they actually cracked because they ended up being too thin. Remember, those bushing are cut with grease groves and that is where ours cracked at least on two units. So we found we needed bushings on both ends. And then the one on the end which had the grooves originally was the one that wanted to work loose. I would use steel bushings. The other issue we ran into was rust on the bolt that kept them from installing solid. The ones that are $400 for the pair are solid, no washers, and no way to have anything to come loose or crack. You can see them at Born Again Classics in the products. I used them and it saved me a lot of time that you are spending. BTW...the four washers can be a solid 3/4" spacer. The other issue was the original concentric nut wouldn't allow a socket wrench to fit on the bolt unless you machined it out to allow the socket to fit. And that factory one is HARD! I broke a number of bits cutting those out.
I deleted mine using this method, along with new ball joints and control arm bushings. WHAT a difference in how it drives, and the best difference is it now stops lazer straight on crappy roads.
I am in the UK with a 64 Galaxie and I made a bar for the off set bolts which helped, but like you $400 for a bolt plus import duty and VAT at 20% gets very expensive. I have been looking how to modify the large sleeve to take the 3/4inch bolt and your video is just great. Taken a long time to find this, thanks very much, Brilliant.
@@shull_mercedes_repair Hi, I've done the change on the bolt, and it drives 100% better and that's before I get it tracked up. The bar between the two bolts helped but this way has transformed the car!!!. Thanks again Scull. Cheers Marcus.
@@shull_mercedes_repair Question, did you end up taking the entire lower control arm out, or did you just take the offset bolt off, and just replace the bolt? I have not been able to find any good videos for the removal process. Did the entire bolt come out of the frame when you pulled it with the 1 - 7/8 socket?
@@alanhaywood1590 I needed to change the bushings on my control arm so I compressed the spring, removed the rear bolt and then removed the 1 7/8 front bolt assembly. Then reverse the order upon reassembly.
@@alanhaywood1590 If the bushings in the lower control arm are OK, then no you don't have to take the rear of the control arm loose. I just did this job. Support the car with jack stands under the frame placed even with the front edge of the door. Then put your floor jack under the control arm, I used a block of wood to put on the top of the jack that will come up under the front bushing and about the middle of the control arm. Just put some pressure on this, just supporting it. Take the nut off the offset shaft at the control arm bushing and save the washers. You will need to open the hole in them to 3/4". Use a 1 7/8" socket, probably 3/4" drive and a ratchet and unthread the big nut on the front of the offset shaft. Now you need need an angle head die grinder and a few 4" cut off wheels. Both are available at harbor freight or someone like that. If you don't have one, you need one anyway. And get a 10 pack of the cut off wheels. This assumes you have an air compressor. You can do this with a sawzall but it's A LOT slower and you will use a bunch of blades, this shaft you are cutting is HARD. Now you are going to cut the offset shaft into three pieces. You are going to cut out the center part that is sort of oval and has flats on it to put a crescent wrench on. I had to cut, say almost 1/2 way thru, turn it, and cut thru from the other side. You may have to come at it from 3 angles. Anyway if you cut thru the smaller diameter rear part of the shaft, you may have to hold the front part still with a pair of vice grips to hold it steady, it will be getting hot. I found it better if I cut some, but not thru on both sides of the oval part, that way when you do cut thru the smaller rear part, you won't have to hold the front part with the vice grips the whole way thru the shaft. Now the center part is gone, take out the front piece, tap the rear piece forward and take it out thru the frame hole out front. Now use his kit or buy the bolt,8"x 3/4", nylon insert lock nuts and the bronze bushings 3/4" I.D. x 1" O.D. with a 3/16" thick flange on it and about 15 or 20 3/4" flat washers from someone like McMaster Carr.com, for about $60 including shipping for both sides. I used a ratchet strap hooked on the outer tie rod end and the transmission cross member mount to pull the control arm to the rear just a bit to make the hole in the control arm bushing line up with the 3/4" bolt you push thru your rebuilt front housing with the bushing in it like you see in this video. All this is a LOT easier than taking the control arm loose, compressing the spring etc. Just be careful, safety glasses etc. It ain't rocket science or real involved or technical, in fact you are making it more simple.
@@jamescrispino5273 I can put a kid together for you for $85 shipped all I need is your name address phone number and email. Reply to mark@shullmercedes.com
I haven’t gotten to tearing my 63 apart yet…but plan on doing this as well. My question is, is the rubber bushing sleeve on the control arm also 3/4 or does it need to be drilled out as well. Thanks!! Ps had seen the video a couple weeks ago and forgot to save it… searched the Facebook page for 25 mins trying to find the video!!
so is the arm going to rotate on the bolt, or will the bolt rotate in the large bolt housing, and how is it lubricated to prevent excessive metal on metal wear.
So the bolt rotates on the bronze bushing. The bushings are the wear item and depending on how much you drive your classic, they can be replaced easily when worn or/and install a grease fitting if it is a daily driver.
Sorry for the delay, I was on vacay. Send me your name, mailing address, phone #, and prefered email address and I will send you an invoice and mail them out directly. Mark - mark@shullmercedes.com
Hello, I have sent you a couple emails, you still doing these kits or have a parts list? I would like to get rid of these stupid bolts. Thanks in advance.
Make sure the bushing sleeve on lower control arm, that the center of bushing is not removed with existing offset bolt. Took a small pipe wrench and rust buster to remove sleeve from offset bolt that was installed on a bench vise. You can put bushing sleeve back in or replace both lower bushings (which require removal of the lower control arm). To tighten new bolt I took a cheap 1 1/8 - 1/2 inch thin wall socket and ground the end circumference down to get into the 1 7/8 bolt head that you removed the center from. I used a large washer to install the sleeve back into its rubber bushing and left the washer there after tightening the nylon nut which will put the sleeve into its correct position within the rubber bushing.
I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video. I just did this job on my 64 Galaxie 500. You don't HAVE to take the control arm loose at the back if the bushings are ok.
The only problem I've seen with doing this way, which we did a number of was the bushings working loose and by reaming out the one side they actually cracked because they ended up being too thin. Remember, those bushing are cut with grease groves and that is where ours cracked at least on two units. So we found we needed bushings on both ends. And then the one on the end which had the grooves originally was the one that wanted to work loose. I would use steel bushings. The other issue we ran into was rust on the bolt that kept them from installing solid.
The ones that are $400 for the pair are solid, no washers, and no way to have anything to come loose or crack. You can see them at Born Again Classics in the products. I used them and it saved me a lot of time that you are spending. BTW...the four washers can be a solid 3/4" spacer. The other issue was the original concentric nut wouldn't allow a socket wrench to fit on the bolt unless you machined it out to allow the socket to fit. And that factory one is HARD! I broke a number of bits cutting those out.
Just grind the outside of the socket. It's easy and it works.
I deleted mine using this method, along with new ball joints and control arm bushings. WHAT a difference in how it drives, and the best difference is it now stops lazer straight on crappy roads.
I am in the UK with a 64 Galaxie and I made a bar for the off set bolts which helped, but like you $400 for a bolt plus import duty and VAT at 20% gets very expensive. I have been looking how to modify the large sleeve to take the 3/4inch bolt and your video is just great. Taken a long time to find this, thanks very much, Brilliant.
Glad I could help.
@@shull_mercedes_repair Hi, I've done the change on the bolt, and it drives 100% better and that's before I get it tracked up. The bar between the two bolts helped but this way has transformed the car!!!. Thanks again Scull. Cheers Marcus.
Bought the kit. Really appreciate your expertise in making my 1963 Galaxie a better handling vehicle
It's my pleasure. Enjoy!
@@shull_mercedes_repair Question, did you end up taking the entire lower control arm out, or did you just take the offset bolt off, and just replace the bolt? I have not been able to find any good videos for the removal process. Did the entire bolt come out of the frame when you pulled it with the 1 - 7/8 socket?
@@alanhaywood1590 I needed to change the bushings on my control arm so I compressed the spring, removed the rear bolt and then removed the 1 7/8 front bolt assembly. Then reverse the order upon reassembly.
@@alanhaywood1590 If the bushings in the lower control arm are OK, then no you don't have to take the rear of the control arm loose. I just did this job. Support the car with jack stands under the frame placed even with the front edge of the door. Then put your floor jack under the control arm, I used a block of wood to put on the top of the jack that will come up under the front bushing and about the middle of the control arm. Just put some pressure on this, just supporting it. Take the nut off the offset shaft at the control arm bushing and save the washers. You will need to open the hole in them to 3/4". Use a 1 7/8" socket, probably 3/4" drive and a ratchet and unthread the big nut on the front of the offset shaft. Now you need need an angle head die grinder and a few 4" cut off wheels. Both are available at harbor freight or someone like that. If you don't have one, you need one anyway. And get a 10 pack of the cut off wheels. This assumes you have an air compressor. You can do this with a sawzall but it's A LOT slower and you will use a bunch of blades, this shaft you are cutting is HARD. Now you are going to cut the offset shaft into three pieces. You are going to cut out the center part that is sort of oval and has flats on it to put a crescent wrench on. I had to cut, say almost 1/2 way thru, turn it, and cut thru from the other side. You may have to come at it from 3 angles. Anyway if you cut thru the smaller diameter rear part of the shaft, you may have to hold the front part still with a pair of vice grips to hold it steady, it will be getting hot. I found it better if I cut some, but not thru on both sides of the oval part, that way when you do cut thru the smaller rear part, you won't have to hold the front part with the vice grips the whole way thru the shaft. Now the center part is gone, take out the front piece, tap the rear piece forward and take it out thru the frame hole out front. Now use his kit or buy the bolt,8"x 3/4", nylon insert lock nuts and the bronze bushings 3/4" I.D. x 1" O.D. with a 3/16" thick flange on it and about 15 or 20 3/4" flat washers from someone like McMaster Carr.com, for about $60 including shipping for both sides. I used a ratchet strap hooked on the outer tie rod end and the transmission cross member mount to pull the control arm to the rear just a bit to make the hole in the control arm bushing line up with the 3/4" bolt you push thru your rebuilt front housing with the bushing in it like you see in this video. All this is a LOT easier than taking the control arm loose, compressing the spring etc. Just be careful, safety glasses etc. It ain't rocket science or real involved or technical, in fact you are making it more simple.
@@davidkeeton6716 Outstanding, that is exactly what I am going to do, thank you very much!
Awesome video, thanks for taking the time to share your excellent idea. I will be updating my low mileage 64 Galaxie soon.
Awesome work! I'm going to have to do this on my 64
Great. Let me know how it works out for you. I finished mine last week.
Where can I buy a kit for my 64 galaxie? Great video by the way! I’m glad you showed hot to do it with primitive tooling.
@@jamescrispino5273 I can put a kid together for you for $85 shipped all I need is your name address phone number and email. Reply to mark@shullmercedes.com
Are you still selling these kits? What size bushings are you using?
I haven’t gotten to tearing my 63 apart yet…but plan on doing this as well. My question is, is the rubber bushing sleeve on the control arm also 3/4 or does it need to be drilled out as well. Thanks!!
Ps had seen the video a couple weeks ago and forgot to save it… searched the Facebook page for 25 mins trying to find the video!!
It all 3/4".
@ shull Mercedes Great video thanks for sharing! Can you give me info on that kit and how to get it? Thanks in advance
If you have access to the bolts (3/4" x 8 1/2" grade 8) you can buy the rest online. If not, I can assemble a kit for you. $85.00 shipping included.
so is the arm going to rotate on the bolt, or will the bolt rotate in the large bolt housing, and how is it lubricated to prevent excessive metal on metal wear.
So the bolt rotates on the bronze bushing. The bushings are the wear item and depending on how much you drive your classic, they can be replaced easily when worn or/and install a grease fitting if it is a daily driver.
What’s your reason for using bronze, you can use steel sleeve instead, once the bolt is torqued it doesn’t pivot
What is your concern with using bronze
I would like to purchase one of your kits iff possible? If you could, please send me the info on what on what I have to do to purchase one. Thx
Send an email to mark@shullmercedes to order.
Can you do a video on what you need to do this please
Do you how to replace the bushings? If so, compress the spring, remove the bolts, knock out the old bushings and install the new.
I would like to buy two of your kits . please let me know how to get them thanks !
Sorry for the delay, I was on vacay. Send me your name, mailing address, phone #, and prefered email address and I will send you an invoice and mail them out directly. Mark - mark@shullmercedes.com
Hey I would like a kit.
send an email to mark@shullmercedes.com and I will get one out to you.
Hello, I have sent you a couple emails, you still doing these kits or have a parts list? I would like to get rid of these stupid bolts. Thanks in advance.
To order a kit email your name, address, phone#, and email to markshull7190@gmail.com. I will send one right out to you.
I would like to purchase the kit. Can you send me the information?
Email me your name email address and phone number to mark@shullmercedes.com
@@shull_mercedes_repair ok I will send that to you. Lol been busy….. work gets in the way. Lol
Are these still available? I sent you a email.
Yes. It is $129.00shipping with insurance and tracking to anywhere in the cont. US> mark@shullmercedes.com
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