I am a brand new newbie to paint/bodywork. Tried for months to find a shop to paint my 99 Dodge Ram I have had since 06.. No one would do it here in NC..Don't have the help, to labor-intensive bla, bla, bla... Having owned a mechanic shop for 20 years I said F___k it I'll do it myself. I have seen every one of your videos and they are excellent. You are an amazing communicator and instructor. I am so blessed to have come across your channel. Thank you for all the great real-world information that you are willing to share. I am blown away by your humility and low-key approach and you say often this is the way I do it. I wish you were closer as I would love to take a live class with you. God bless you and your family and a sincere thank you.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS PS :I am 66 and just getting into it... Got my inner fenders, 3 coats prime, 2 coats base and 3 coats clear.. Looks damm good, I am pretty pleased. Thanks again
Keep up the good work, for the DIYer it is helpful. I started watching you when my nephew Brian (who you know) told me about you before he moved out of state. I noticed you beefed up your videos to really teach, very helpful. I think you are heading in the right direction with your videos.
I spent the day doing this. Love the 50/50 mix and measuring the hardener gave me more work time even though was 90 degrees today. The Linear blocks kick ass too.
Travis, Thank you for your demonstration as a reminder for DIYers much less daily professionals. Getting the metal repaired is job #1, but cleaning, prep by proper sanding or preparation reminds us to get the filler worked into the pores and sand scratches of the metal to begin the best adhesion possible. This is the "Tight Coat". As a basic in the industry, many fighting the clock skip this step. This is "Best Practices". Good for you for bringing it up again as an excellent reminder as the proper way to start this step! Thank you! DK, ASE master tech, not a body tech!
GREAT vid , demonstration and actual teaching skills ta boot! I have over 30 years in The Arts mostly as hobbyist, but also have a few years working for shops as well for my bread n water lol. Pure GOLD here, again...Or should I say pure ULTRA? heh heh.. I have not seen/heard of that ULTRA EXTRA stuff yet. Interesting...But yeah, ever since Evercoat's huge 30 percent price increase this year, I have been thinkin/threatening of tryin the 3M premium, but it seems to my memory, it doesn't sand near as easy/slick as the ULTRA? (when using it for another shop but just in small patches). Anyways, great vid again and Happy Restoring and Cruizin!
Thank you very much the biggest difference is the ultra extra work time is incredible I don’t think 3M has a product that has that long of a work time we were actually able to skim coat the entire side of a car in one go.
I really enjoy your videos man, filming and talking can be difficult but keep them coming! I definitely picked up a few tricks along the way like guide coating clear coat when cutting orange peel etc
Travis I have been doing body work for 35 years tried your way buy splitting the rage never going backwards 😤 and I'm old-school lol love the videos all the best 👍
Have a Brit friend that does amazing filler work. He applies filler with a plastic spreader and contours it with spring steel clay modeling "slicks" it's so smooth and shiny when bone, finishes it with 180. His results are flawless. I tried but can't replicate his methods.
I'm 63 years old I still learning love you man learn a lot from you not burn out yet I work for a company but come home and do it in my garage thanks bro
on the metal spreaders. buy ones that are not in a package so you can test the flex. Some are very stiff and some are near as flexible as the plastic throw aways almost.
Great tips as usual Travis. I struggle with mixing and spreading filler sometimes. I just got a scale to mix more consistently and am practicing with it. An old time body guy showed me years ago that adding a little acetone to the filler thins it out and makes it spread more like glaze ....basically making it whatever consistency you want. I'm sure you have heard of it....what's your take on it??
Chevelle Ranch - Ohh yeah 👍 Acetone ehh? 🤔 I also use lacquer thinner! And of course, Plastic Honey IS good stuff (OR anything equivalent.). "CHEVELLE RANCH" also, ehh? 🤔 Nice 👍. LOVE them 64-72s with MOST emphasis on 66 n 67s. Goes for EL CAMINOS TOO! (Seems lotta Chevelle guys don't agree but...😬🙄). I got a 67 Malibu and 67 El Camino, two 66 Caminos and a ratty ol 65 Camino too. 66 n 67 FOREVER 🔥🤘
Is this resin good for use in thinning fillers to in crease applications time? TotalBoat Polyester Laminating Resin - Marine Grade Fiberglass Resin and MEKP Catalyst for Layups and Repairs (Quart
I really enjoy your videos. I use all the techniques you have shown me and my 55 Chevy looks better than any other car that I have built throughout my life. Your a number one teacher ! Oh ! By the way, I am seventy five and have built a lot of hot rods. Thanks a lot !
After watching your body filler series I could see the benefit in weighing the filler and hardener. I tried to find some low price scales locally that will measure in less that one gram increments and which also have a enough total weight capacity for the mixing board and a reasonable amount of filler. I couldn't find anything scales that were suitable under $200 unless they were online and I didn't have time to wait for a delivery. While searching I found some pocket scales which measure down to 1/10th of a gram with a 200gram max capacity for $20. I also bought a $25 set of kitchen scales that measure up to 2kg in 1 gram increments. I put the mixing board on the kitchen scales, Tare it, then add the filler until I have what I need, note the weight of the filler then use the pocket scales to weigh the hardener to the exact 2% or other percentage I need for the temperature, then transfer the hardener to the mixing board. It works perfectly. Total cost under $50 for both scales. This tip may help others who want to weigh the filler & hardener but also want to keep the cost down 🙂
Hi Sylvester. That Ultra Rage body filler is expensive. Since I’m just filling cast iron holes in my lathe, what body filler would you recommend? As for my aluminum parts, I got AlumaPrep to etch the metal and the epoxy primer will adhere without problems. Is it ok to get the Eastwood high fill epoxy primer in aerosol instead of the stuff you use? I don’t have my air hooked up yet. Thanks for your help. Paul
What no comments....First leme say I love the work u do.im a chef/pastry chef.nd I love doing panelbeating nd doing spraypainting. I also learn alot from you.keep up the great work
For new guys trying bodywork for the first time this is a great find! Collecting all your tutorials and getting metal spreaders pronto! I'm drinking the Kool-Aid.
Do you have any videos on how to fix oil canning? The welder in my shop leaves lots to be desired sometimes and really pumps a lot of heat into his patch panels etc.
Have you ever heard of a speed skim? used in plastering, they do all sorts of different lengths, I've used similar tools filling marine work, you might be interested in trying one for large areas, can really take advantage of that pot life. Great videos btw, many thanks from the UK.
Hey man maybe this will be easier for you. I use a drywall Hawk, the board has a handle on the bottom so you can hold it WAY better than just a simple sheet. I put handle in a qt pain can to sit it on a table flat to put filler on it.
Great video love your channel just started watching I noticed the Pantera in the background me and my father just got rid of our Pantera to a guy in Germany we've had it since the '80s and it was time to let it go it just needed too much work and did not have the resources or funds to finish it our Pantera was painted in white primer and in pieces exactly like that one in your shop that would be kind of coincidental if that was the Pantera in your shop LOL keep up the great videos
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS yeah I just watched a couple of other videos on it identical car yeah the body work required to do the trunk is not an easy task if you're starting from original scraping off all that undercoating and then filling all the spot welds but when it's finished and all smooth they do look pretty good kind of miss my Pantera but I do not miss all the money you have to put in to it love your videos keep up the great work thanks
Another great video. Which filler would you choose for the factory seam areas where there used to be lead like the bottom of the door jam/quarter panel joint, the roof rails. I know you weld a panel over the roof rail joint but what about the rocker to quarter panel? Thank you
I eliminate all the seams top to bottom. Best option if you aren’t making it out of metal is putting lead back. If you don’t do lead work weld the overlap up and use a fiberglass reinforced filler. I don’t like it that way they have a tendency to crack.
First off Thank you for another great video. I will be using SPI Epoxy Primer to seal/prime my truck which is clean bare metal. The instruction recommend filler over the epoxy but also state it is ok to apply the filler to bare metal. What do you suggest?
There's been a lot of concern with galvanic corrosion mainly in collision repair. Requirements to use specific tools and clean rooms for aluminum repair to avoid cross contamination. Do you think it's a concern with aluminum mixing boards and steel spreaders or possibly picking up particles of aluminum off the board and unknowingly applying it to a panel(without epoxy of course). Or do you think it's a really long shot of being a potential problem?
I was using rage when there was one kind, it was a little smoother than bondo brand, but not so much to be worth the price difference, most ppl are going to use a glaze anyway, upol is 25 a gallon, that stuff is 100 nowdays, imho there is no way its worth that much
A little off topic, but do you think its possible/advisable to sand metallic top coats, or best as a rookie to steer well clear? Thanks PS great video, thanks
Any thoughts on the aluminum fillers for resto work.love had great success With it as long as its fresh and buttery .really seems to feather into metal and epoxy.although its very smelly and dusty
For metal spreaders it might be possible to use a drywall compound knife. They're available up to 12 or 14" wide and might work for large surfaces. I haven't had an opportunity to try one for filler but they're made very similarly. Drywall compound/plaster boards might be useful as a spreader board. They have a handle on the bottom to hold on to but they also have flush fasteners that holds the handle on plus shallow grooves to keep the compound from sliding off as easy that might make cleaning more troublesome. Next time I have to mix a larger amount of filler I may give it a try A cold mix board taken out of the frige would likely have condensation in areas of higher humidity. I can't see how that wouldn't have an undesirable effect.
If you were to spread a coat of Ultra right next to a coat of Ultra Extra and then sand them do they sand equally or is one harder than the other? Will using different mixture ratios of the two, perhaps 50-50 on on first coat and straight ultra on the remaining lows, lead to uneven sanding or perhaps shrinking later on?
We try to be as consistent as possible but slight deviances I haven’t noticed a difference. Takes a very trained eye to notice. Most important part is letting everything dry and shrink
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS well I definitely like your work I'm going into more car work myself I'm about to leave my day job with department of defense fabricating parts for B-52 bombers after 25 yrs
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Right i spent 15 minutes watching this and learned nothing no tips nothing. i just like watching your projects you are working on i learn more doing that. keep it up
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I said in a different comments section that if you dont learn something from these instructional videos (hence the talking) that you may be a hater or troll. I guess there is No Limit.🤔
The guy spends a lot of time away from his business making videos explaining what and how to do things in depth. If you dont learn anything from him, Im just going to say that the fault of not learning anything is yours.
Dude! You were made to be an instructor. Just the calm demeanor motivates me to work on my truck. Thank you 👊😎
Very humbling thank you very much!
I am a brand new newbie to paint/bodywork. Tried for months to find a shop to paint my 99 Dodge Ram I have had since 06.. No one would do it here in NC..Don't have the help, to labor-intensive bla, bla, bla... Having owned a mechanic shop for 20 years I said F___k it I'll do it myself. I have seen every one of your videos and they are excellent. You are an amazing communicator and instructor. I am so blessed to have come across your channel. Thank you for all the great real-world information that you are willing to share. I am blown away by your humility and low-key approach and you say often this is the way I do it. I wish you were closer as I would love to take a live class with you. God bless you and your family and a sincere thank you.
Thank you very much. Good luck on your dodge.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS PS :I am 66 and just getting into it... Got my inner fenders, 3 coats prime, 2 coats base and 3 coats clear.. Looks damm good, I am pretty pleased. Thanks again
Keep up the good work, for the DIYer it is helpful. I started watching you when my nephew Brian (who you know) told me about you before he moved out of state. I noticed you beefed up your videos to really teach, very helpful. I think you are heading in the right direction with your videos.
Thank you so much!!!
I agree!
!
I spent the day doing this. Love the 50/50 mix and measuring the hardener gave me more work time even though was 90 degrees today. The Linear blocks kick ass too.
Very glad to hear!
Yeah, the Linear Blocks are a game changer....(.Anybody wanna buy some TrueBlox Sanders? Lol)
Travis, Thank you for your demonstration as a reminder for DIYers much less daily professionals. Getting the metal repaired is job #1, but cleaning, prep by proper sanding or preparation reminds us to get the filler worked into the pores and sand scratches of the metal to begin the best adhesion possible. This is the "Tight Coat". As a basic in the industry, many fighting the clock skip this step. This is "Best Practices". Good for you for bringing it up again as an excellent reminder as the proper way to start this step!
Thank you! DK, ASE master tech, not a body tech!
Thank you very much
GREAT vid , demonstration and actual teaching skills ta boot! I have over 30 years in The Arts mostly as hobbyist, but also have a few years working for shops as well for my bread n water lol. Pure GOLD here, again...Or should I say pure ULTRA? heh heh.. I have not seen/heard of that ULTRA EXTRA stuff yet. Interesting...But yeah, ever since Evercoat's huge 30 percent price increase this year, I have been thinkin/threatening of tryin the 3M premium, but it seems to my memory, it doesn't sand near as easy/slick as the ULTRA? (when using it for another shop but just in small patches). Anyways, great vid again and Happy Restoring and Cruizin!
Thank you very much the biggest difference is the ultra extra work time is incredible I don’t think 3M has a product that has that long of a work time we were actually able to skim coat the entire side of a car in one go.
I really enjoy your videos man, filming and talking can be difficult but keep them coming! I definitely picked up a few tricks along the way like guide coating clear coat when cutting orange peel etc
Thank you 👊🏻👍🏻
I’ve been body working for over 30 years now and I was tough this way from my father exactly what you are doing. Awesome job man
Thank you!!
Travis I have been doing body work for 35 years tried your way buy splitting the rage never going backwards 😤 and I'm old-school lol love the videos all the best 👍
Thank you very much!
Have a Brit friend that does amazing filler work. He applies filler with a plastic spreader and contours it with spring steel clay modeling "slicks" it's so smooth and shiny when bone, finishes it with 180. His results are flawless. I tried but can't replicate his methods.
Just takes practice
I'm 63 years old I still learning love you man learn a lot from you not burn out yet I work for a company but come home and do it in my garage thanks bro
Thank you very much for watching. We appreciate it and we hope you are continuing to learn. We will be coming back very soon with more videos.
on the metal spreaders. buy ones that are not in a package so you can test the flex. Some are very stiff and some are near as flexible as the plastic throw aways almost.
Great tips as usual Travis. I struggle with mixing and spreading filler sometimes. I just got a scale to mix more consistently and am practicing with it. An old time body guy showed me years ago that adding a little acetone to the filler thins it out and makes it spread more like glaze ....basically making it whatever consistency you want. I'm sure you have heard of it....what's your take on it??
Thank you. I’ve actually never heard that. I’m not a chemist I don’t deviate I follow the tech sheets 👍🏻👍🏻
Chevelle Ranch - Ohh yeah 👍 Acetone ehh? 🤔 I also use lacquer thinner! And of course, Plastic Honey IS good stuff (OR anything equivalent.). "CHEVELLE RANCH" also, ehh? 🤔 Nice 👍. LOVE them 64-72s with MOST emphasis on 66 n 67s. Goes for EL CAMINOS TOO! (Seems lotta Chevelle guys don't agree but...😬🙄). I got a 67 Malibu and 67 El Camino, two 66 Caminos and a ratty ol 65 Camino too. 66 n 67 FOREVER 🔥🤘
Is this resin good for use in thinning fillers to in crease applications time?
TotalBoat Polyester Laminating Resin - Marine Grade Fiberglass Resin and MEKP Catalyst for Layups and Repairs (Quart
Adding resin does not increase your time.
I really enjoy your videos. I use all the techniques you have shown me and my 55 Chevy looks better than any other car that I have built throughout my life. Your a number one teacher ! Oh ! By the way, I am seventy five and have built a lot of hot rods. Thanks a lot !
Very glad to hear that!!
After watching your body filler series I could see the benefit in weighing the filler and hardener. I tried to find some low price scales locally that will measure in less that one gram increments and which also have a enough total weight capacity for the mixing board and a reasonable amount of filler.
I couldn't find anything scales that were suitable under $200 unless they were online and I didn't have time to wait for a delivery. While searching I found some pocket scales which measure down to 1/10th of a gram with a 200gram max capacity for $20. I also bought a $25 set of kitchen scales that measure up to 2kg in 1 gram increments.
I put the mixing board on the kitchen scales, Tare it, then add the filler until I have what I need, note the weight of the filler then use the pocket scales to weigh the hardener to the exact 2% or other percentage I need for the temperature, then transfer the hardener to the mixing board. It works perfectly. Total cost under $50 for both scales. This tip may help others who want to weigh the filler & hardener but also want to keep the cost down 🙂
Thx for sharing
got any videos for motorcycle fairings
Not specifically sorry
can fillers be thinned ?
Stuff of the shelf in Australia doesn't have the thinness of products US guys have
Hi Sylvester. That Ultra Rage body filler is expensive. Since I’m just filling cast iron holes in my lathe, what body filler would you recommend?
As for my aluminum parts, I got AlumaPrep to etch the metal and the epoxy primer will adhere without problems.
Is it ok to get the Eastwood high fill epoxy primer in aerosol instead of the stuff you use? I don’t have my air hooked up yet.
Thanks for your help.
Paul
I’m not sure I don’t use any of Eastwood products
🤔
🙏🏻 10-10 I recommend your channel to everyone in this industry. Especially everyone in my shop. It’s homework to watch this channel and learn.
We greatly appreciate you helping the channel grow 👊🏻👍🏻
What no comments....First leme say I love the work u do.im a chef/pastry chef.nd I love doing panelbeating nd doing spraypainting. I also learn alot from you.keep up the great work
Thank you so much means a lot!
Another good tips video. FWIW, Evercoat makes both a 8 x 11 & 11 x 17 onion board for those that like the disposable mixing boards.
Thank yoi
For new guys trying bodywork for the first time this is a great find! Collecting all your tutorials and getting metal spreaders pronto! I'm drinking the Kool-Aid.
Haha thank you!
Do you have any videos on how to fix oil canning? The welder in my shop leaves lots to be desired sometimes and really pumps a lot of heat into his patch panels etc.
Check out the series on the Willy’s hood 👍🏻
Sir ... thanks a mint for another expert tutorial ... greatly appreciated !!!
My pleasure
Have you ever heard of a speed skim? used in plastering, they do all sorts of different lengths, I've used similar tools filling marine work, you might be interested in trying one for large areas, can really take advantage of that pot life. Great videos btw, many thanks from the UK.
Thank you I have not I’ll look into that thank you
You make it super super fun to learn and you don't over complicate things.... thanks 😊😊 😊😊😊😊
Thank you 👍🏻
Hey man maybe this will be easier for you. I use a drywall Hawk, the board has a handle on the bottom so you can hold it WAY better than just a simple sheet. I put handle in a qt pain can to sit it on a table flat to put filler on it.
I’ve seen those I need to give it a try thanks
As a newbie in my one man shop any and all tips are helpful
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
wish the guys like Chip Foose would show this amount of detail
I agree!!
Great video love your channel just started watching I noticed the Pantera in the background me and my father just got rid of our Pantera to a guy in Germany we've had it since the '80s and it was time to let it go it just needed too much work and did not have the resources or funds to finish it our Pantera was painted in white primer and in pieces exactly like that one in your shop that would be kind of coincidental if that was the Pantera in your shop LOL keep up the great videos
Thank you!! The one in my shop has had the same owner for 30+ years so probably not.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS yeah I just watched a couple of other videos on it identical car yeah the body work required to do the trunk is not an easy task if you're starting from original scraping off all that undercoating and then filling all the spot welds but when it's finished and all smooth they do look pretty good kind of miss my Pantera but I do not miss all the money you have to put in to it love your videos keep up the great work thanks
@@robertfisk8344 thank you
Very informative video. Thanks!
Thank you!
What about using Rage Extender?
Haven’t used it or even seen it.
justcwant thank u u have taugh me alot
Awesome you are very welcome!!
How do you like rage Extreme
It’s not bad I might use it in place of a glazing putty it’s very thin and runny but extreme is the true meaning of cost 🤣
Great info! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you
very informative great episode
Thank you!
plastic filler = plastic spreader, always.
@@TimBoss2000 pro tip 🙄
Thermal Dynamics 101
🇭🇲
Spreader Temperature Control - STC 🤣
can u do spray gun set up
5th videos ago we already have one. 👍🏻
Another great video. Which filler would you choose for the factory seam areas where there used to be lead like the bottom of the door jam/quarter panel joint, the roof rails. I know you weld a panel over the roof rail joint but what about the rocker to quarter panel? Thank you
I eliminate all the seams top to bottom. Best option if you aren’t making it out of metal is putting lead back. If you don’t do lead work weld the overlap up and use a fiberglass reinforced filler. I don’t like it that way they have a tendency to crack.
Whered you get your mixing board
High teck pn# mb100
The metal one
First off Thank you for another great video. I will be using SPI Epoxy Primer to seal/prime my truck which is clean bare metal. The instruction recommend filler over the epoxy but also state it is ok to apply the filler to bare metal. What do you suggest?
We always do filler over epoxy. I’ve seen cars come back with surface rust on filler with bare metal cars that were prepped well. Thank you
There's been a lot of concern with galvanic corrosion mainly in collision repair. Requirements to use specific tools and clean rooms for aluminum repair to avoid cross contamination. Do you think it's a concern with aluminum mixing boards and steel spreaders or possibly picking up particles of aluminum off the board and unknowingly applying it to a panel(without epoxy of course). Or do you think it's a really long shot of being a potential problem?
Interesting. Been doing it this way 25 years and I haven’t had a problem I do clean the aluminum extremely well.
Another helpful video..I watch another youtuber who coaches drywall techniques and his mantra is "feather that edge"
Oh that’s awesome!!
Paid your vids a lot of heed this week - my filler work improved about 80% as a result. Thank you for the great tutorials.
Great to hear! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I was using rage when there was one kind, it was a little smoother than bondo brand, but not so much to be worth the price difference, most ppl are going to use a glaze anyway, upol is 25 a gallon, that stuff is 100 nowdays, imho there is no way its worth that much
When doing high quality work there is a difference in work time you get what you pay for. But I agree they are over priced
A little off topic, but do you think its possible/advisable to sand metallic top coats, or best as a rookie to steer well clear? Thanks PS great video, thanks
Can you be more specific ? Are you going to sand and respray the Metallica to blend it or?
I love your channel. I have been learning a lot and about to do my first job on my 67 Camaro. Wish me luck.
Good luck!!! You got this
Any thoughts on the aluminum fillers for resto work.love had great success
With it as long as its fresh and buttery .really seems to feather into metal and epoxy.although its very smelly and dusty
No I don’t have any on it. Why would you want to?
Excellent.
Many thanks!
Thank you for this graduate course in filler manipulation!
Thanks for watching!
For metal spreaders it might be possible to use a drywall compound knife. They're available up to 12 or 14" wide and might work for large surfaces. I haven't had an opportunity to try one for filler but they're made very similarly. Drywall compound/plaster boards might be useful as a spreader board. They have a handle on the bottom to hold on to but they also have flush fasteners that holds the handle on plus shallow grooves to keep the compound from sliding off as easy that might make cleaning more troublesome. Next time I have to mix a larger amount of filler I may give it a try
A cold mix board taken out of the frige would likely have condensation in areas of higher humidity. I can't see how that wouldn't have an undesirable effect.
Keep us posted on how it turns out 👊🏻👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS It's a home shop project so it may be a while. I'm getting older so i may not even remember this post!
If you were to spread a coat of Ultra right next to a coat of Ultra Extra and then sand them do they sand equally or is one harder than the other? Will using different mixture ratios of the two, perhaps 50-50 on on first coat and straight ultra on the remaining lows, lead to uneven sanding or perhaps shrinking later on?
We try to be as consistent as possible but slight deviances I haven’t noticed a difference. Takes a very trained eye to notice. Most important part is letting everything dry and shrink
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS 👍
Is there any reason why you skim cars with filler rather than a glaze.
Glaze is to runny you won’t get the filler to stay where you need it.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS oh I just like how it sands pretty much coat all my filler with a skim of glaze but that's collision so not an entire car
I live in Oklahoma and 3 months out of the yr are heat is ridiculous because of humidity
I bet!! Ours has been 114 degrees in shop with 40-50% humidity.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS we had triple digits for like 30 days now I'm playing catch up with weather cooler 🤣
@@rongamble9884 we’re in the same ball game. Worked all night catching up too 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS well I definitely like your work I'm going into more car work myself I'm about to leave my day job with department of defense fabricating parts for B-52 bombers after 25 yrs
@@rongamble9884 best of luck I just went full time too
good videos but too much talk in your videos we are not rookies here if we are restoring and doing this kind of work.
Pretty simple then… don’t watch it. If you want a better video do it yourself and spend 15 hrs a video for free knowledge. 🙄
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Right i spent 15 minutes watching this and learned nothing no tips nothing. i just like watching your projects you are working on i learn more doing that. keep it up
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS love your vids the detail you go in to is amazing love learning new techniques.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS
I said in a different comments section that if you dont learn something from these instructional videos (hence the talking) that you may be a hater or troll. I guess there is No Limit.🤔
The guy spends a lot of time away from his business making videos explaining what and how to do things in depth. If you dont learn anything from him, Im just going to say that the fault of not learning anything is yours.