This actually did work and I bleeded EA288 1.6 TDI succesfully. This was after a timing belt job with the water pump. I did block what was in the coolant expansion tank with lockpliers though, so not awfully lot drained out. Kudos for the video man, very informative and easy to follow.
Nice write up. Should write in heading that this is a procedure that applies to engine code EA2888 and not the EA189. The latter doesn't require vcds to be bled. Thta's why many people doesnt find this procedure in vcds on their ea189 cars 😊
im trying to do this on a 2018 audi s5. i have the initial procedure on vcds to do the bleed. however upon checking the vcds menus i cant find the second procedure for low temp circuit? is it possible they have just incorporated the whole procedure into one task? thanks
@madallinaturca5607 that’s really strange - I’ve honestly not sure what would cause that I’m afraid. The only problem I had with it on mine was that I had a fault code relating to one of the electric coolant pumps which prevented the second bleeding procedure from occurring - but it gave me an error message rather than just doing nothing. Maybe check your fault codes and clear them first?
The security code was ok. My cable is not original, aliexpress, but so far I could do injector coding and so on... Maybe a 2010 engine doesn't have that option...
@@FixItWithJon Yes , latest version , the coolant pump attached to the timing belt is pure mechanical, security access is accepted but there is no option for bleed
Date of production? Maybe this is an engine of the oder Type EA189, which I mentioned in my hints to the comment of @senor7857. This video describes the procedure for the newer motor type EA288 (inroduced 2012).
Do i start this with the expansion tank cap off. With the engine cold.... or run it up to temp with the cap off then start or just do it with the cap on the whole time thanks
the first process you did of security access>adaptation>bleed cooling circuit... is that basically opening up the whole system so i can achieve a full vacuum before filling with coolant tool? service manual states i need to do something like this before filling system with coolant. thank you
That first process is setting into bleed mode, so yes - I would do that before applying pressure from a pneumatic bleed tool for sure, I think you’re definitely on the right lines there..
Hello, i tried to run this procedure, but my vcds doesn't accept the code 27971, result i can't execute any adaptation. Has It evere happened to you? Sorry for my bad english 😅
I also had the same issue today - it would not accept 27971. It then said wait 10 minutes with Ignition on before trying again after entering an incorrect code. I haven’t tried the other codes as my VCDS offered up 27971 in the prompt bubble 💭
Jon, the coolant in a Skoda Octavia collapsed. I need the replace it. I added a coolant cleaner to the cooling system. Now I need to drain the whole cooling system to remove the cleaner and the old coolant. But, just 3 l (Skoda manual says coolant is 8,4 l) came out. How to get the rest out of the system? Which hose needs to be removed to drain everyhting? I removed the hose at the right side of the cooler because it's the lowest point. Coolant should follow gravity by no avail. Thx for help.
Hiya, sounds to me as though you may have drained the coolant while the engine is cold? If so unfortunately your only way forward is to refill the coolant, start the engine and then drain when warmed up.. Hope that helps? Let me know how you get on..
hello, useful video. I would like to replace the coolant in my vw tsi engine (two cooling circuits.) what I want to do is to drain as much coolant as possible. fill the expansion tank with fresh coolant. use the car while keeping an eye on the coolant temperature. top-up the expansion tank if needed. is there any risk in doing so? should I bleed the two cooling systems with VCDS instead? what do you suggest? thank you
@safewaycart Thanks for your comment - really glad it helped :-) I have heard of this being done. Personally I would not be comfortable running the cooling circuit dry with the engine running. I think the two electric coolant pumps are pretty intolerant to running dry and the engine will seriously overheat and distort the cylinder head if left without coolant for any length of time. Personally I would drain and then refill / top up while bleeding with VCDS. Hope that helps a little?
@@FixItWithJon yes, it helps (a little) thank you. it is not clear how can I possibly have a dry cooling circuit if I try to do my best at keeping the expansion tank coolantful, under strict observation, stationary car with the engine running. I mean gravity should do his job to a certain extent. I know that there are some valves in the coolant circuit and with a cold engine in theory they should all be closed in order to permit a faster warm up time. personally I dont like the VCDS method, sorry. it is difficult to demonstrate if it really works or not and you don't have a visual confirmation of how effective it is at filling all the cavities. you just have to trust the system 😒
this will run coolant into expansion tank and also suck it from it if im correct, so i can basically replace coolant and flush a system (by disconnecting return pipe from expansion tank )?
@@FixItWithJon draining by disconnecting hose on radiator? but there will still be some old coolant in system, as i need to clean it out since i need to replace cabin heater that was blocked
@@vojkostar Yep - fair enough. I have a coolant flush video in the works, but for now: Drain with the engine cold, from the radiator bottom hose. Refill with distilled water, run engine up, cool engine, drain again. Repeat as many times as you feel you need (generally 3 is plenty). Then you can be sure all debris is out. You can also use a coolant drain additive to aid the process: geni.us/YIIyddh. Then fill up and bleed as per this video. Hope that helps?
@@FixItWithJon you fill distiled water directly in radiator and expansion tank, is there procedure where do i am adding water when it is starting circulating when engine is running
Hello, can a coolant or radiator flush be performed withoot using VCDS at all? this seems so complicated or rather confusing. why didn't you show what you were doing to drain the system while using the VCDs so is DIYers could learn visually? Thank you for the video btw!!
Unfortunately not on modern VAG cars buddy. It’s because they don’t just have one mechanical water pump - there’s 2 electrical water pumps too. The ONLY way to get past those is an active bleeding process.
Hiya, I’m not sure but my feeling is probably not. It works on the 2016 Skoda because of the electric coolant pumps in the system. With a vehicle as old as yours I would imagine that it would only have a mechanical coolant pump and therefore this process wouldn’t be applicable. Hope that makes sense?
This actually did work and I bleeded EA288 1.6 TDI succesfully. This was after a timing belt job with the water pump. I did block what was in the coolant expansion tank with lockpliers though, so not awfully lot drained out. Kudos for the video man, very informative and easy to follow.
thanks for sharing had a coolant change at garage not sure if they did this procedure
Nice write up. Should write in heading that this is a procedure that applies to engine code EA2888 and not the EA189. The latter doesn't require vcds to be bled. Thta's why many people doesnt find this procedure in vcds on their ea189 cars 😊
Should the Expansion Tank be open during the process ?
@cropyros5363 Really good point - yes absolutely and regularly monitored / topped up.
im trying to do this on a 2018 audi s5. i have the initial procedure on vcds to do the bleed. however upon checking the vcds menus i cant find the second procedure for low temp circuit? is it possible they have just incorporated the whole procedure into one task? thanks
Audi a3 8v diesel tdi doesn’t start the prodcedure , press brake press accelerator and it show s depress and doesen t happen nothing ..
@madallinaturca5607 that’s really strange - I’ve honestly not sure what would cause that I’m afraid. The only problem I had with it on mine was that I had a fault code relating to one of the electric coolant pumps which prevented the second bleeding procedure from occurring - but it gave me an error message rather than just doing nothing. Maybe check your fault codes and clear them first?
@@FixItWithJon 0 errors , it says press brake and accelerator but in your video you press the clutch ..
@madallinaturca5607 that’s the same as mine pal - Brake and Accelerator. I don’t have a clutch. Mine is an automatic. Hope that helps?
@@FixItWithJon mine is manual
@@madallinaturca5607 i have the same problem , how did you fix that problem?
Hi does it works on 1.4tsi?2016 i cant find in adaptation bleding circuit option.
Superb! Worked a treat. Thanks
Hi really helpfull video, but my audi a4 b9 after i press go says interrupted for security reasons | 16 any tips? Thank you.
Is this procedure performed before or after manually bleeding at the supercharger bleeder screws and heater core hose bleed hole on a 3.0L?
After bud. This is the very last step. Hope that helps?
In my 1.6 TDI 2010 CAYC that option is not available in the menu, any thoughts?
Hiya, if it’s not showing it might be because you haven’t entered the security code correctly? Are you using a genuine VCDS cable?
The security code was ok. My cable is not original, aliexpress, but so far I could do injector coding and so on...
Maybe a 2010 engine doesn't have that option...
The CAYC is an engine of the older type EA189. In this example the newer EA288 engine (introduced 2012) is mounted in the Skoda Octavia.
Didn’t find bleed option on vw amarok 2.0 TDI
That’s odd - are you using the latest version of VCDS?
@@FixItWithJon
Yes , latest version , the coolant pump attached to the timing belt is pure mechanical, security access is accepted but there is no option for bleed
Date of production?
Maybe this is an engine of the oder Type EA189, which I mentioned in my hints to the comment of @senor7857.
This video describes the procedure for the newer motor type EA288 (inroduced 2012).
Do i start this with the expansion tank cap off. With the engine cold.... or run it up to temp with the cap off then start or just do it with the cap on the whole time thanks
I have the same question
@chriswright9720 Really good question - best to do it with the engine warm and the filler cap off. Sorry I missed that in the video.. Hope that helps?
Best to do it with the engine warm and the filler cap off. Sorry I missed that in the video.. Hope that helps?
the first process you did of security access>adaptation>bleed cooling circuit... is that basically opening up the whole system so i can achieve a full vacuum before filling with coolant tool? service manual states i need to do something like this before filling system with coolant. thank you
That first process is setting into bleed mode, so yes - I would do that before applying pressure from a pneumatic bleed tool for sure, I think you’re definitely on the right lines there..
@@FixItWithJoncan you use the part of the process to drain the entire system?
I want to drain and renew the entire system's contents.
Hello, i tried to run this procedure, but my vcds doesn't accept the code 27971, result i can't execute any adaptation. Has It evere happened to you? Sorry for my bad english 😅
Hiya, sorry to hear that. You can also try: S12345 Or 12233
Let me know how you get on?
I also had the same issue today - it would not accept 27971. It then said wait 10 minutes with Ignition on before trying again after entering an incorrect code. I haven’t tried the other codes as my VCDS offered up 27971 in the prompt bubble 💭
Do this procedure when engine is cold?
Good question - no do it when the engine is warm & the thermostat is open 👍
Jon, the coolant in a Skoda Octavia collapsed. I need the replace it. I added a coolant cleaner to the cooling system. Now I need to drain the whole cooling system to remove the cleaner and the old coolant. But, just 3 l (Skoda manual says coolant is 8,4 l) came out. How to get the rest out of the system? Which hose needs to be removed to drain everyhting? I removed the hose at the right side of the cooler because it's the lowest point. Coolant should follow gravity by no avail. Thx for help.
Hiya, sounds to me as though you may have drained the coolant while the engine is cold? If so unfortunately your only way forward is to refill the coolant, start the engine and then drain when warmed up.. Hope that helps? Let me know how you get on..
hello, useful video. I would like to replace the coolant in my vw tsi engine (two cooling circuits.) what I want to do is to drain as much coolant as possible. fill the expansion tank with fresh coolant. use the car while keeping an eye on the coolant temperature. top-up the expansion tank if needed. is there any risk in doing so? should I bleed the two cooling systems with VCDS instead? what do you suggest? thank you
@safewaycart Thanks for your comment - really glad it helped :-) I have heard of this being done. Personally I would not be comfortable running the cooling circuit dry with the engine running. I think the two electric coolant pumps are pretty intolerant to running dry and the engine will seriously overheat and distort the cylinder head if left without coolant for any length of time. Personally I would drain and then refill / top up while bleeding with VCDS. Hope that helps a little?
@@FixItWithJon yes, it helps (a little) thank you. it is not clear how can I possibly have a dry cooling circuit if I try to do my best at keeping the expansion tank coolantful, under strict observation, stationary car with the engine running. I mean gravity should do his job to a certain extent. I know that there are some valves in the coolant circuit and with a cold engine in theory they should all be closed in order to permit a faster warm up time. personally I dont like the VCDS method, sorry. it is difficult to demonstrate if it really works or not and you don't have a visual confirmation of how effective it is at filling all the cavities. you just have to trust the system 😒
this will run coolant into expansion tank and also suck it from it if im correct, so i can basically replace coolant and flush a system (by disconnecting return pipe from expansion tank )?
I guess you could, but personally I like the reassurance of having the coolant all drain out & then add fresh coolant separately.
@@FixItWithJon draining by disconnecting hose on radiator? but there will still be some old coolant in system, as i need to clean it out since i need to replace cabin heater that was blocked
@@vojkostar Yep - fair enough. I have a coolant flush video in the works, but for now: Drain with the engine cold, from the radiator bottom hose. Refill with distilled water, run engine up, cool engine, drain again. Repeat as many times as you feel you need (generally 3 is plenty). Then you can be sure all debris is out. You can also use a coolant drain additive to aid the process: geni.us/YIIyddh. Then fill up and bleed as per this video. Hope that helps?
@@FixItWithJon you fill distiled water directly in radiator and expansion tank, is there procedure where do i am adding water when it is starting circulating when engine is running
U mnie nie trzeba wcisnąć pedałów hamulca. Pokazuje ze uruchomione. Po chwili zakańcza ze wzgledow bezpieczeństwa. Please help. Crafter II 2.0btdi
Were can I get a VCDS from? Thank you
Aliiexpress :D
Hello, can a coolant or radiator flush be performed withoot using VCDS at all? this seems so complicated or rather confusing. why didn't you show what you were doing to drain the system while using the VCDs so is DIYers could learn visually? Thank you for the video btw!!
Unfortunately not on modern VAG cars buddy. It’s because they don’t just have one mechanical water pump - there’s 2 electrical water pumps too. The ONLY way to get past those is an active bleeding process.
Hi Jon - Does this work on a 2002 A6 2.5 TDI?
Hiya, I’m not sure but my feeling is probably not. It works on the 2016 Skoda because of the electric coolant pumps in the system. With a vehicle as old as yours I would imagine that it would only have a mechanical coolant pump and therefore this process wouldn’t be applicable. Hope that makes sense?
@@FixItWithJon yes my car has a mechanical water pump so I’m going to try another method