Nice job. I'm doing this with my -09 Ultra this winter. However, I did notice one big no-no: you should never use your torque wrench to undo bolts. It is a presicion tool that actually requires tuning and recalibration now and then (yearly if you use it a lot). Using the torque wrench to undo bolts will potentially throw off the calibration and mess up your torque values once you put the bike back together. Just a tip from one home-wrench to another.
Thanks for all your effort! That was quite a job changing out compensator and then editing and with all the explanations was quite a chore. Appreciate the video.
I need to do this too my 03' Dyna! I also need too change out upgraded chain adjuster back too manual adjustments because auto is ratcheting up tension just like you said here! I've learned to make chain measurement readings on 3 equal distant chain locations, too get that 5/8"-7/8" as accurate as possible!
awesome, I have a 09 heritage, i have bought all the ins n outs i need. about to do this on mine. I went with the dark horse comp eliminator, and baker tensioner, also have a thundermax ecm to install, looking forward to the new bike when its finished
You did not have to unscrew the clutch adjuster, just take the spring clip off and it all comes in one piece and you won’t have to readjust the clutch,
Nice job! Seeing people dremel the case is very unnerving!! Doesnt look that bad to do it properly. Im leaning towards Baker myself. Need to pop the cover & take a look, getting weird noises. 09 UC, 41k miles. Thanks!!
So wise of you to use a torque wrench to loosen those bolts and I just love your method of stopping the rotation while doing so. Nothing like the ignorant teaching us all how to do it right eh? They make these things called "Manuels."
hey Jose did you change your compensator on your road king. and is it working right I also have a 2008 road king classic im going to fix my starter it is making some crazy noise it feels feels like it wont turn after it is worm up when I try to turn it on again let me know how you did on your bike.
Cool video man with clear angles. I like the Baker Drivetrain Attitude Chain Adjuster & Compensator Kit upgrade. Not too expensive @ $198 U.S, and worth it long-term to avoid multiple breakdown hassles. No primary "clunking" sounds and engine torque is increase by 3.42 ft. lbs. as another performance bonus. The Hayden Enterprises M-6 Primary Chain Tensioner is another good option and makes continuous automatic adjustments @ $112.
The Baker Attitude Chain Adjuster by itself is $198. The Baker Attitude Chain Adjuster & Compensator Kit is $750. Just clarifying so people do not get confused.
Victoria Bitter! That's awesome beer. We have one restaurant here in Canada you can get that stuff at and that's Outback Steakhouse. Good video by the way.
two things I'd like to point out.1 your supposedto torque the comp nut, back it off and do final torque. 2 it 55 oz of primary oil when dry. about a quart wet.
That's why I'll never buy newer than an '06. Baker realized that the original early compensator design with short ramps was bullet proof. Manual adjuster too kept things inside from over tightening too! My '05 has a 106" torque motor with the original primary setup and has worked flawlessly for two years now and I romp the throttle all the time.
Probably but looked good to me so rolled with it, 15k since install never missed a beat....if you have anything constructive on how to do this please post it I’m not a mechanic I’m just having a crack so feel free to make a video on that process and tag it for me in this thread to help the next guys 👍👍👍
I just had my shop do exactly this, and it’s very noisy. Even the mechanic was concerned with the noise. I’m not sure if it’s the primary chain running over the baker adjuster or it’s too time. The mechanic assured me he measured 5/8 play at several points. I’m not satisfied with this. Maybe the chain is too tight, and we should back it off to 7/8. IDK?
@@randymccalla9995 He did everything correctly. We sent the unit back to Baker, they made some adjustments , we took out the Attitude Adjuster, and it’s much quieter now.
Had my primaries apart lots of times and never once put new inner primary bolts? Why? Unless they are stripped or rounded just clean loctite and torque good to go! Same reasoning you don't install new outer primary Allen's every time...
It says in the torque wrench instructions NOT to use it as a ratchet as well - but I do ! Also, on my '10 model Streetbob I find the long extension from the socket set fits in just right as a locking bar for the primary......
Its been nearly 2 Years since You uploaded this video and im curious of your thoughts all together on going with the Baker products? I just purchased the Baker Compensator and Tensioner (actually already had the tensioner) anyways hows it holding up for ya? Also for not being a mechanic yourself I think you did a pretty good job. Screw those who are criticizing you. We all live and learn so what i see is you learning to self maintain your own bike and cutting out the greedy middle man...,Anyways Much appreciate this video
Ohio Harley Rider All good here I checked the chain tension once at about 10,000km after install I’ve done just over 25,000km since install and never had any problems mate so I’m pretty happy with how it’s gone
I use a variety of Baker parts and even my jaded professional machinist buds like them because they are so well made. I NEVER use automatic chain adjusters or recommend them to customers.. I prefer my measurement rather than trusting sometimes failure prone devices. If ya can't be arsed to adjust your primary chain now and then (and inspect the area at the same time) that's just laziness.
@@obfuscated3090 It would have been nice if Harley left a chain adjustment cover in the primary at least until the automatic adjuster was a proven success but as usual they figure any new modifications they make are going to be foolproof and it just makes it harder to fix shit when it inevitably fucks up. Been riding HD for over 35 years and they are the only company I know that can make me love them and hate them at the same time.
hey installed 1 of those in my bike 3 years ago and opened my my primary to see whats going on in there and found out my Baker Attitude chain adjuster was bent and chain was not riding flat along shoe. Took it out and with a 10' crescent wrench and straighten it out wasn't that hard so i won't put it back in. I noticed that Baker web site has beefed it up but people are still having problem with it bending.Talk to Baker and they wouldn't do anything for me but i really didn't want anything from them anyway. Just my 2 cents guys
Never use blue loctite on the compensator or clutch hub nut. You should use red. And from what I seen you tightened the inner primary bolts out of sequence and I didn't see you use a torque wrench on those bolts either. If you over torque them you will strip the threads in the crankcase or the transmission housing.
Don't you have to measure from the gasket surface of the inner primary to the chain side plates and ensure you are within the 0.03 of chain alignment tolerance?
That’s how baker tells you to do it, but the proper way, imo is a straight edge across the comp sprocket and the clutch sprocket. No airspace between the strait edge and the sprockets and your good to go
hey man cave nice video were can I buy a good bike jack like your , or is there a better one you can recommend. and did the baker compensator has it worked well for you I also have to do this for my bike I got a road king classic 2008.
I got this with the bike but should be able to find one on eBay or auto parts stores/ bike spares shops do sell them aswell....definitely helps, 60,000kms later still running well
Update! Had the hard starting issues when hot again....baker has been in for nearly 60,000kms now....pulled primary apart and inspected and it’s showing signs of wear and skipping at the top of the ramps so that’s what’s causing it to kick back....spring pack looks intact so not sure why it’s worn the top of the ramps....only done it a few times over the last month or so but I know from last time so it’s getting changed out..this time going with dark horse crank works compensator the design looks awesome and serviceable, baker out did the Harley one by 20,000kms so can’t complain.
@@ethanintheelements2528 yeah mate it’s in! Done about 2,000kms on it so far and no issues...sorted the worn baker so that’s good, motor feels a bit different tho definitely can’t lug it as much (not that I think I do a lot) plus my manual tensioners might have something to do with that aswell so hard to say what it would feel like with a auto tensioner Baker was good got way more kms out of it than stock but it’s still a part that’s meant to wear out better than than say your crank scissoring....went with man of war for the design as it’s Cush drive basically....and when the hard runners wear out will cost me $100 aud (roughly Mabye a touch less) shipped to my door to freshen up instead of another $800 aud (roughly) for a complete new compensator
Sweet man. Prolly gonna go with the man o war myself, with a baker attitude adjuster. Unfortunately the sprocket is backordered for 3 weeks and my primary is already apart 😅
Thanks for the feed back, just for the record I'm not a mechanic just like having a crack....picking up things as I go even just from these feed back comments so happy days....good luck man
Question, I just fitted the compensator & new rotor cover. But the spring basket is free to move it rotates and has free play (1-2mm) side to side. Is it the same on yours? The original Harley spring basket is welded to the rotor cover. It has eliminated the clunk on start/stop but has a spinning noise when running. Appreciate any feedback
Did you make sure, to loosen the compensator bolt one turn after going 100 ft lbs, and then taking It back to the 140 or 160 or whatever It is supposted to be ?
It would help if you would say what the problem was you were having with your bike in the first place. Was your bike making noise while you were starting it??
I said at the start of the video when I was showing the parts the bike had hot starting issues...kicking back, making a weird grinding noise that’s the main sign your compensator is fucked....probly same issues your having and that’s why your here researching.....that comp had its day after about 60,000kms....lasted longer than the stock so happy about that...it’s a wear part designed to wear so crank won’t scissor etc so they will never last forever....I’ve gone to a man o war compensator from dark horse crank works there design is new and I think will be the better fix, it’s a solid sprocket but inner is basically Cush drive using hard rubbers so instead of using a spring pack and ramps that will eventually fail all you’ll have to do is replace those internal rubbers for like $100aud instead of replacing a whole compensator for 800aud....been in my bike around 4000kms now without any issue but I will say bike doesn’t like the lower rpms as much now so you can’t lug your bike as much (not that you should be) but I find myself sometimes in a lower gear at some speeds than I would before
@@mancavecycleworks7683 Yeah same exact symptoms grinding and metal-on-metal slamming sound when hot. I'm on my third compensator but doesn't help much. I don't know the history of my engine but I think they put a Big bore kit in it, it has compression releases on the heads probably for a reason.
There is an vid from THE expert Kevin Baxter who said " when you have several times a compensator issu CHECK the runout vly wheel. Or the in line compensator clutchbag. That can be the cause too. And special with. The man o ware comp
so 07-11 has the old style comp 2012 on wards has the screaming eagle, the old style comp has the spring pack attached to the rotor behind the comp, and the screaming eagle comp (atleast I know baker does) has it in the compensator that's where the design problem was I believe. so if you have the old style that rotor will have to be replaced cost about $100 from Harley also means the install is a bit longer coz you have to remove the whole primary backing plate to get the old one out (some ppl grind it away but id remove it) watch the start and end of the video I explain this, need any more help let me know ill do my best to answer cheers mate
Use the proper Sprocket's Locking Tool, HD P/N #14900002 ... DON"T stretch the chain and then strain Chain's "link rivets"~~~ouch!! do IT right ... don't be a Butcher !!
Just curious if you have any engine mods or just stock? I was also wondering how you like the new screaming eagle clutch spring? Im thinking of going this route with my 2010 street glide
You should replace the clutch plates if the clutch has ever slipped - just putting a stronger spring in will not work for long as the friction plates with be glazed by the slipping and will slip again. Your best bet would be an Energy 1 extra plate kit - it has extra surface area and a stronger spring. My bike has over 120 bhp and torque and it does not slip - ever !
Why on earth is harley davidson still using a chain primary? In 2017 they came out with a new engine thats new from top to bottom with better cooling, more oil, more power, less vibration etc etc and they put an out dated chain drive on the bike man? Harley davidson know darn well a gear drive primary drive is more powerful, less mainteance, and smoother which could allow HD to keep the current primary cover for appearances.
that's right, we pay top dollar, too many fucken dollars, for a motorcycle that has dangerous flaws and mechanically not right. only to have to put more money a lot of money to fix what the motor co. won't.115 years making motorcycles that don't run correctly, making more on repair ,than sales
So the old Style rotor has the spring pack attached to the rotor but the baker has it inside the compensator, if you flick through to the part at the start where I'm talking about it you'll notice the new rotor on the right, now to get that rotor off or on you have two options first is ppl grind down that lip that it catches on or the second is to remove the inner case, that's the option I went with I didn't like the idea of grinding a good case away just to save some time, either way when you do the upgrade and your bikes year is older than 12 you'll need to change out the rotor regardless of choosing baker/ screaming eagle or a solid sproket like they had 06 and before. You get the rotor from hd part number - 30041-08A (2012 rotor for compensator upgrade) should be around $100 from memory , Hope this helps mate
Before 07 they had a solid sproket, 07-11 the first style, and 12 on is the screaming eagle which won't need the rotor it's already there so the install is a lot easier
I have a 2010 FLHTCUSE5 and the compensator has been changed twice. Both units were SE and makes no difference in the noise.. what a racket... very poor design over all. Not sure if I will need the rotor
If they have tried the se then you already have the updated rotor, look into baker or even a solid sproket like pre 07, evolution industries also do a 30 tooth instead of 34tooth it changes the gear ratios a little and give you more off the line torque, either way I would still get a Manual tensioner
I prefer the auto tensioner esp a heavy duty one. My reason? Not having to remove the case to adjust the chain tension. Standard one's do wear, and even break, aftermarket one's seem better.
Great video bro you did an excellent job all way around. I have a 2001 Softail Fatboy that clunks like hell when I start it I don't know if it's the compensator or the teeth on the gears but I'm going to get into it soon. It looks like a fairly easy job but thanks to you and your video I know what I'm getting into. if you're ever in Northern California look me up I will hook you up we will have an insane time, beaches, boobs, and booze!!! Cheers brotha...
Thanks mate, I'm pretty sure your fatboy doesn't have s compensator 07 was the first year of the touring but not sure if it was the first year overall, so if I'm right you have a solid sprocket and if that's the case it might just be a few ground down teeth avdvshoukd be a way quicker fix, I know a few guys who pulled out there.comp and went back to the solid sprocket from evolution industries even made the tooth count less to get more off the line torque so that's something to think about also I would highly recommend the manual chain tension check my video on the overview on the automatic one, let me know how you go mate
Also to do the test this is for compensators not sure about solid sprocket I imagine it would have a similar effect, , start the bike, while sitting on it and In gear hold the front brake down and slowly let the clutch out your bike should just quietly start to drop out, mine when it was bad would sound kinda like marbles in there crunching that's how I knew to open the primary, could also be your starter clutch teeth that's worn so check that hard to tell until you open her up mate good luck keep me posted
Clunk on start up? Or when changing gears? So hard to say, I didn't check for chain alignment looked good to me could be that .03 out I'd max it should be
When you want Baker tech info, use their chat line. Get comfortable with using tech support. You pay for it when you buy parts and makes like Baker want happy customers.
Harley stock been in a steep nose dive last 7 years. People are fed up pouring money into these engines which are designed to fail. People not paying 20 to 30 thousand dollars for new bikes... I predict this company will be bankrupt inside of 5 years from now..... We have access to company balance sheets, showing the company way over extended on existing loans and credit to the tune of almost 500 million dollars. This motor company not have that kind of cash to pay back..........Is only a matter of time now, before banks start calling these notes back over-due for payment............
Why in the hell do people use torque wrenches to break bolts loose?? Use the right tool for the job - and you won't have to spend a couple of hundred bucks on a new torque wrench.
man cave cycleworks well I can appreciate that. Just a tip, though ... you can pick up old school pro level tools pretty cheap from pawn shops sometimes. Proto, SK, Snap-on, etc. Stuff that will last forever. You could get a 1/2 breaker bar for $5.
I had a torque wrench in 1972 that had a pointer and It moved both directions , all you guys saying dont loosen with a torque wrench, probably dont know how to do any thing but play Donkey Kong !
Before I change the compensator I was able to switch speeds about 1 gear every 10 miles, the bike had the crappy old "spring cup" system now with the baker compensator looks like I have to ride more faster or the bike start to shake like you are to slow for the gear you are on. Is this normal?
Nice job. I'm doing this with my -09 Ultra this winter. However, I did notice one big no-no: you should never use your torque wrench to undo bolts. It is a presicion tool that actually requires tuning and recalibration now and then (yearly if you use it a lot). Using the torque wrench to undo bolts will potentially throw off the calibration and mess up your torque values once you put the bike back together. Just a tip from one home-wrench to another.
Thanks for the feed back
Or you could get one of those old torque wrenches that have a pointer that reads on a scale either direction 😎
Thanks for all your effort! That was quite a job changing out compensator and then editing and with all the explanations was quite a chore. Appreciate the video.
Thanks bud did my best
Ive never used Baker products, but I hear nothing but good things about them. Thanks for the video. Good job.
For not being a mechanic you did a kickass job. outstanding.
I need to do this too my 03' Dyna! I also need too change out upgraded chain adjuster back too manual adjustments because auto is ratcheting up tension just like you said here! I've learned to make chain measurement readings on 3 equal distant chain locations, too get that 5/8"-7/8" as accurate as possible!
awesome, I have a 09 heritage, i have bought all the ins n outs i need. about to do this on mine. I went with the dark horse comp eliminator, and baker tensioner, also have a thundermax ecm to install, looking forward to the new bike when its finished
You did not have to unscrew the clutch adjuster, just take the spring clip off and it all comes in one piece and you won’t have to readjust the clutch,
Nice job! Seeing people dremel the case is very unnerving!! Doesnt look that bad to do it properly. Im leaning towards Baker myself. Need to pop the cover & take a look, getting weird noises. 09 UC, 41k miles. Thanks!!
So wise of you to use a torque wrench to loosen those bolts and I just love your method of stopping the rotation while doing so. Nothing like the ignorant teaching us all how to do it right eh? They make these things called "Manuels."
Did you think the removal torque was more than 150 ft.lbs ?
,thank you for you time, very informative, I will be doing mine as soon as I am back home, 2008 Road King and just for a peace of mind.Cheers👍
Good luck
hey Jose did you change your compensator on your road king. and is it working right I also have a 2008 road king classic im going to fix my starter it is making some crazy noise it feels feels like it wont turn after it is worm up when I try to turn it on again let me know how you did on your bike.
Thanks for the vid dude. I'll be doing this in the next few weeks. Just waiting on a starter clutch
No worries mate what bike you got? And what was the problem just out of curiosity, seems hd have fucked the primary's design
Cool video man with clear angles. I like the Baker Drivetrain Attitude Chain Adjuster & Compensator Kit upgrade. Not too expensive @ $198 U.S, and worth it long-term to avoid multiple breakdown hassles. No primary "clunking" sounds and engine torque is increase by 3.42 ft. lbs. as another performance bonus. The Hayden Enterprises M-6 Primary Chain Tensioner is another good option and makes continuous automatic adjustments @ $112.
The Baker Attitude Chain Adjuster by itself is $198. The Baker Attitude Chain Adjuster & Compensator Kit is $750. Just clarifying so people do not get confused.
Victoria Bitter! That's awesome beer. We have one restaurant here in Canada you can get that stuff at and that's Outback Steakhouse. Good video by the way.
best stuff in the world mate, glad you liked it cheers
I'm dealing with this now, great vid, very helpful.
two things I'd like to point out.1 your supposedto torque the comp nut, back it off and do final torque. 2 it 55 oz of primary oil when dry. about a quart wet.
It's 44 dry.
Love the VB beer on the shelves!!
You should rotate the engine to find the tight spot on the chain before adjusting!
Baker recommends adjusting on the loose side.
@@bear304inc5 Hi, how do you know the tight and loose spot to install the baker tensioner?
I need to do this on my 07 road king, thanks for the step by step process.
You are radical , working on your bike bare footed!
Comfort 😄
Great video on the baker install. Well done mate ;)
So you do have to buy a new rotor for the bdl to work
That's why I'll never buy newer than an '06. Baker realized that the original early compensator design with short ramps was bullet proof. Manual adjuster too kept things inside from over tightening too! My '05 has a 106" torque motor with the original primary setup and has worked flawlessly for two years now and I romp the throttle all the time.
will an '06 outer primary cover bolt to an '07?
You know the spring pack is a quick fix on your 05' I'll bet !!
@@Will8022000 I would say no It wont because the Transmission on the 07 is six speed..
Shouldn't you measure to make sure compensator is in alignment with the clutch hub to make sure it doesn't need a spacer?
Probably but looked good to me so rolled with it, 15k since install never missed a beat....if you have anything constructive on how to do this please post it I’m not a mechanic I’m just having a crack so feel free to make a video on that process and tag it for me in this thread to help the next guys 👍👍👍
Yes and be sure to run a tap thru the main or else that nut WILL spin and your baker investment will be baked
Wayne THOMPSON good idea....around 60,000kms later still going well
I have to do this ,I have a noise in my Dyna primary, , when I turn it off from this area ,thank you
I just had my shop do exactly this, and it’s very noisy. Even the mechanic was concerned with the noise. I’m not sure if it’s the primary chain running over the baker adjuster or it’s too time. The mechanic assured me he measured 5/8 play at several points. I’m not satisfied with this. Maybe the chain is too tight, and we should back it off to 7/8. IDK?
If your mechanic only tightened the compensator bolt once and stopped The bolt could actually be loose now.
@@randymccalla9995 He did everything correctly. We sent the unit back to Baker, they made some adjustments , we took out the Attitude Adjuster, and it’s much quieter now.
Had my primaries apart lots of times and never once put new inner primary bolts? Why? Unless they are stripped or rounded just clean loctite and torque good to go! Same reasoning you don't install new outer primary Allen's every time...
Nice bbut the baker is twice the price of the screaming eagle ? I mean a baker is about 800 euros?
You should never use a torque wrench for a breaker bar.
all I had to get it done so i went with it, I'm not a mechanic man just like having a crack but appreciate the tips thanks bud
man cave cycleworks I am a mechanic and we use torque wrenches for breaker bars all the time.....you did good....
It says in the torque wrench instructions NOT to use it as a ratchet as well - but I do ! Also, on my '10 model Streetbob I find the long extension from the socket set fits in just right as a locking bar for the primary......
BULL SHIT.. REVERSE THREADS NEED TORQUE ALSO.... INVALID POINT
No ? (Sarcasm) It's guys like this that you shouldn't take advice from, nuthin personal.
Its been nearly 2 Years since You uploaded this video and im curious of your thoughts all together on going with the Baker products? I just purchased the Baker Compensator and Tensioner (actually already had the tensioner) anyways hows it holding up for ya? Also for not being a mechanic yourself I think you did a pretty good job. Screw those who are criticizing you. We all live and learn so what i see is you learning to self maintain your own bike and cutting out the greedy middle man...,Anyways Much appreciate this video
Ohio Harley Rider
All good here I checked the chain tension once at about 10,000km after install I’ve done just over 25,000km since install and never had any problems mate so I’m pretty happy with how it’s gone
I use a variety of Baker parts and even my jaded professional machinist buds like them because they are so well made. I NEVER use automatic chain adjusters or recommend them to customers.. I prefer my measurement rather than trusting sometimes failure prone devices. If ya can't be arsed to adjust your primary chain now and then (and inspect the area at the same time) that's just laziness.
Ob Fuscated Ageed
@@obfuscated3090 It would have been nice if Harley left a chain adjustment cover in the primary at least until the automatic adjuster was a proven success but as usual they figure any new modifications they make are going to be foolproof and it just makes it harder to fix shit when it inevitably fucks up. Been riding HD for over 35 years and they are the only company I know that can make me love them and hate them at the same time.
hey installed 1 of those in my bike 3 years ago and opened my my primary to see whats going on in there and found out my Baker Attitude chain adjuster was bent and chain was not riding flat along shoe. Took it out and with a 10' crescent wrench and straighten it out wasn't that hard so i won't put it back in. I noticed that Baker web site has beefed it up but people are still having problem with it bending.Talk to Baker and they wouldn't do anything for me but i really didn't want anything from them anyway. Just my 2 cents guys
Thanks for sharing this video MCCW.
Never use blue loctite on the compensator or clutch hub nut. You should use red. And from what I seen you tightened the inner primary bolts out of sequence and I didn't see you use a torque wrench on those bolts either. If you over torque them you will strip the threads in the crankcase or the transmission housing.
Cheers for the info
Don't you have to measure from the gasket surface of the inner primary to the chain side plates and ensure you are within the 0.03 of chain alignment tolerance?
Probly I'm not real sure looked good to me, make no mistake im not a mechanic mate, cheers for the info tho bud
man cave cycleworks Well that’s the problem if your not exactly know what’s going on , then look in the workshop manual this avoids more problems!!
That’s how baker tells you to do it, but the proper way, imo is a straight edge across the comp sprocket and the clutch sprocket.
No airspace between the strait edge and the sprockets and your good to go
hey man cave nice video were can I buy a good bike jack like your , or is there a better one you can recommend. and did the baker compensator has it worked well for you I also have to do this for my bike I got a road king classic 2008.
I got this with the bike but should be able to find one on eBay or auto parts stores/ bike spares shops do sell them aswell....definitely helps, 60,000kms later still running well
Shouldn't the locking tool be switched around to the bottom of the compensator to the top of cluch pack?
Update! Had the hard starting issues when hot again....baker has been in for nearly 60,000kms now....pulled primary apart and inspected and it’s showing signs of wear and skipping at the top of the ramps so that’s what’s causing it to kick back....spring pack looks intact so not sure why it’s worn the top of the ramps....only done it a few times over the last month or so but I know from last time so it’s getting changed out..this time going with dark horse crank works compensator the design looks awesome and serviceable, baker out did the Harley one by 20,000kms so can’t complain.
Did u put in the man o war yet? Debating between baker or man o war.
@@ethanintheelements2528 yeah mate it’s in! Done about 2,000kms on it so far and no issues...sorted the worn baker so that’s good, motor feels a bit different tho definitely can’t lug it as much (not that I think I do a lot) plus my manual tensioners might have something to do with that aswell so hard to say what it would feel like with a auto tensioner
Baker was good got way more kms out of it than stock but it’s still a part that’s meant to wear out better than than say your crank scissoring....went with man of war for the design as it’s Cush drive basically....and when the hard runners wear out will cost me $100 aud (roughly Mabye a touch less) shipped to my door to freshen up instead of another $800 aud (roughly) for a complete new compensator
Sweet man. Prolly gonna go with the man o war myself, with a baker attitude adjuster. Unfortunately the sprocket is backordered for 3 weeks and my primary is already apart 😅
@@ethanintheelements2528 check if fuel moto or cycle solutions have them...they both stock them
Red locative on the compensator bolt
Will only be using SOME of this for reference. Great video that does cover a lot, but throws in some bad practices.
Thanks for the feed back, just for the record I'm not a mechanic just like having a crack....picking up things as I go even just from these feed back comments so happy days....good luck man
Great video
Question, I just fitted the compensator & new rotor cover. But the spring basket is free to move it rotates and has free play (1-2mm) side to side. Is it the same on yours? The original Harley spring basket is welded to the rotor cover. It has eliminated the clunk on start/stop but has a spinning noise when running. Appreciate any feedback
Talking about a bit of slack in the chain?
Did you make sure, to loosen the compensator bolt one turn after going 100 ft lbs, and then taking It back to the 140 or 160 or whatever It is supposted to be ?
You did not torque the compensator nut to Harley Davidson specks
hey how much did the spring pack cost you and is it a baker also.
Based on the amount of slack in that chain I’d say the old shoe was working fine…..
I still think man should have three hands
It would help if you would say what the problem was you were having with your bike in the first place. Was your bike making noise while you were starting it??
I said at the start of the video when I was showing the parts the bike had hot starting issues...kicking back, making a weird grinding noise that’s the main sign your compensator is fucked....probly same issues your having and that’s why your here researching.....that comp had its day after about 60,000kms....lasted longer than the stock so happy about that...it’s a wear part designed to wear so crank won’t scissor etc so they will never last forever....I’ve gone to a man o war compensator from dark horse crank works there design is new and I think will be the better fix, it’s a solid sprocket but inner is basically Cush drive using hard rubbers so instead of using a spring pack and ramps that will eventually fail all you’ll have to do is replace those internal rubbers for like $100aud instead of replacing a whole compensator for 800aud....been in my bike around 4000kms now without any issue but I will say bike doesn’t like the lower rpms as much now so you can’t lug your bike as much (not that you should be) but I find myself sometimes in a lower gear at some speeds than I would before
At 60k was it the spring pack, spinning too. ??
@@mancavecycleworks7683 Yeah same exact symptoms grinding and metal-on-metal slamming sound when hot. I'm on my third compensator but doesn't help much. I don't know the history of my engine but I think they put a Big bore kit in it, it has compression releases on the heads probably for a reason.
There is an vid from THE expert Kevin Baxter who said " when you have several times a compensator issu CHECK the runout vly wheel. Or the in line compensator clutchbag.
That can be the cause too. And special with. The man o ware comp
Good job. I have a few questions. Have you changed all the seals? How many miles did the harley have at work? Thank you
It was a long time ago I think I was at nearly 40k kms I think
Those are bolts, not nuts. Nuts have internal threads, bolts are external threads.
Actually. According to Harley they are screws lol
Hi do you import all these parts from the USA? isnt it really expensive ?
Nah mate just brought it from eBay found the cheapest deal
How often do you have to check / adjust the primary chain when you switch to a manual chain tensioner?
The service manual on my '95 with manual adjustment says check every 5000 miles.
part of the exhaust have to come off also??? front cyclinder?
Nah didn’t have to
Can i put clutch spring on without takeing out the clutch adjuster. Thanks mate
yeah mate
Can you explain what you did with the stator cover where the compensator prints are located, thanks mate
I mean springs
so 07-11 has the old style comp 2012 on wards has the screaming eagle, the old style comp has the spring pack attached to the rotor behind the comp, and the screaming eagle comp (atleast I know baker does) has it in the compensator that's where the design problem was I believe. so if you have the old style that rotor will have to be replaced cost about $100 from Harley also means the install is a bit longer coz you have to remove the whole primary backing plate to get the old one out (some ppl grind it away but id remove it) watch the start and end of the video I explain this, need any more help let me know ill do my best to answer cheers mate
Many thanks, all fixed and running well, no more clunking or chain whip lash
Sweet you install a baker? How bout the tensioner?
Your moving a bit quick there mate. You didn't film the actual installation of the compensator. . You jumped a stage in filming.
That shoe does not look to bad for 40000 km
Use the proper Sprocket's Locking Tool, HD P/N #14900002 ... DON"T stretch the chain and then strain Chain's "link rivets"~~~ouch!! do IT right ... don't be a Butcher !!
Sometimes you just gotta make do if your not in a workshop....totally get it tho....60,000kms later still running well
Just curious if you have any engine mods or just stock? I was also wondering how you like the new screaming eagle clutch spring? Im thinking of going this route with my 2010 street glide
You should replace the clutch plates if the clutch has ever slipped - just putting a stronger spring in will not work for long as the friction plates with be glazed by the slipping and will slip again. Your best bet would be an Energy 1 extra plate kit - it has extra surface area and a stronger spring. My bike has over 120 bhp and torque and it does not slip - ever !
I put the heavier clutch spring in still going strong too
Does anyone have the part number for the updated rotor?
How much (US) did all of this cost you? Thanks for the vid!
All up about $800 Aus it's a long time ago tho could be wrong
Why on earth is harley davidson still using a chain primary? In 2017 they came out with a new engine thats new from top to bottom with better cooling, more oil, more power, less vibration etc etc and they put an out dated chain drive on the bike man?
Harley davidson know darn well a gear drive primary drive is more powerful, less mainteance, and smoother which could allow HD to keep the current primary cover for appearances.
Because it is cheaper that all the machining to get gear drive to work. All comes down to the $$$$
So have you had any problems?
No mate good as gold, it's been 10k since install and I checked the tension and it still good
that's right, we pay top dollar, too many fucken dollars, for a motorcycle that has dangerous flaws and mechanically not right. only to have to put more money a lot of money to fix what the motor co. won't.115 years making motorcycles that don't run correctly, making more on repair ,than sales
Why did you take the primary case off? I know it had something to do with the Rotor. Did you install a new rotor with the Baker?
So the old Style rotor has the spring pack attached to the rotor but the baker has it inside the compensator, if you flick through to the part at the start where I'm talking about it you'll notice the new rotor on the right, now to get that rotor off or on you have two options first is ppl grind down that lip that it catches on or the second is to remove the inner case, that's the option I went with I didn't like the idea of grinding a good case away just to save some time, either way when you do the upgrade and your bikes year is older than 12 you'll need to change out the rotor regardless of choosing baker/ screaming eagle or a solid sproket like they had 06 and before. You get the rotor from hd part number - 30041-08A (2012 rotor for compensator upgrade) should be around $100 from memory , Hope this helps mate
Before 07 they had a solid sproket, 07-11 the first style, and 12 on is the screaming eagle which won't need the rotor it's already there so the install is a lot easier
I have a 2010 FLHTCUSE5 and the compensator has been changed twice. Both units were SE and makes no difference in the noise.. what a racket... very poor design over all. Not sure if I will need the rotor
If they have tried the se then you already have the updated rotor, look into baker or even a solid sproket like pre 07, evolution industries also do a 30 tooth instead of 34tooth it changes the gear ratios a little and give you more off the line torque, either way I would still get a Manual tensioner
I prefer the auto tensioner esp a heavy duty one. My reason? Not having to remove the case to adjust the chain tension. Standard one's do wear, and even break, aftermarket one's seem better.
I'am getting rid of my 3 HD's and buying a 4 leggard mule
VB!
Great video bro you did an excellent job all way around. I have a 2001 Softail Fatboy that clunks like hell when I start it I don't know if it's the compensator or the teeth on the gears but I'm going to get into it soon. It looks like a fairly easy job but thanks to you and your video I know what I'm getting into. if you're ever in Northern California look me up I will hook you up we will have an insane time, beaches, boobs, and booze!!! Cheers brotha...
Thanks mate, I'm pretty sure your fatboy doesn't have s compensator 07 was the first year of the touring but not sure if it was the first year overall, so if I'm right you have a solid sprocket and if that's the case it might just be a few ground down teeth avdvshoukd be a way quicker fix, I know a few guys who pulled out there.comp and went back to the solid sprocket from evolution industries even made the tooth count less to get more off the line torque so that's something to think about also I would highly recommend the manual chain tension check my video on the overview on the automatic one, let me know how you go mate
Also to do the test this is for compensators not sure about solid sprocket I imagine it would have a similar effect, , start the bike, while sitting on it and In gear hold the front brake down and slowly let the clutch out your bike should just quietly start to drop out, mine when it was bad would sound kinda like marbles in there crunching that's how I knew to open the primary, could also be your starter clutch teeth that's worn so check that hard to tell until you open her up mate good luck keep me posted
COMPENSATOR!
Kit had 2 washers.. do I use them? I have a 103
Anything in the info paper about them so long ago bud I really can't remember sorry I can't be of more help
I installed The Baker compensator did everything right but now I hear a different sounding clunk. What you think that's all about?
Clunk on start up? Or when changing gears? So hard to say, I didn't check for chain alignment looked good to me could be that .03 out I'd max it should be
When you want Baker tech info, use their chat line. Get comfortable with using tech support. You pay for it when you buy parts and makes like Baker want happy customers.
i meccanici americani muovono le mani a vanvera, senza uso razionale degli strumenti, senza rigore
PLease get a wireless mic.
Haha
Harley stock been in a steep nose dive last 7 years. People are fed up pouring money into these engines which are designed to fail. People not paying 20 to 30 thousand dollars for new bikes... I predict this company will be bankrupt inside of 5 years from now..... We have access to company balance sheets, showing the company way over extended on existing loans and credit to the tune of almost 500 million dollars. This motor company not have that kind of cash to pay back..........Is only a matter of time now, before banks start calling these notes back over-due for payment............
Why in the hell do people use torque wrenches to break bolts loose?? Use the right tool for the job - and you won't have to spend a couple of hundred bucks on a new torque wrench.
Used what I had, not a workshop so sometimes you just gotta make do....but thanks for your concern about my finances 😁😂👍
man cave cycleworks well I can appreciate that. Just a tip, though ... you can pick up old school pro level tools pretty cheap from pawn shops sometimes. Proto, SK, Snap-on, etc. Stuff that will last forever. You could get a 1/2 breaker bar for $5.
What do you use to torque the left hand thread on all those older Chrysler wheels.. ?
I had a torque wrench in 1972 that had a pointer and It moved both directions , all you guys saying dont loosen with a torque wrench, probably dont know how to do any thing but play Donkey Kong !
Typical hack job (no torque wrench)
Hack, Never use a Torque wrench as a breaker bar....
Sometimes you just gotta make do if your not in a workshop....totally get it tho....60,000kms later still running well, thanks for the feed back 🤘🏼
Is it nessesary to remove the starter ( bolts ) ?
Before I change the compensator I was able to switch speeds about 1 gear every 10 miles, the bike had the crappy old "spring cup" system now with the baker compensator looks like I have to ride more faster or the bike start to shake like you are to slow for the gear you are on.
Is this normal?
Can’t say I noticed anything like that mate
This sounds like your clutch is not releasing easily, maybe not the right oil level ??