Class #3- Chain Alignment
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ม.ค. 2025
- Calling all BAKER Gearheads!
Class 3 is learning how to align your chain properly.
For any further questions please refer to your factory service manual or give us a call at 517-339-3835.
www.bakerdrivetrain.com
nice work! tremendously important spec to check for longevity!
A better and more accurate way to measure is to place a STRAIGHT edge against the outer teeth between both sprockets
hey parnter, the guy above you, just said that..but you guys are right.
I Run a EVO 1340 I use a straight edge top to bottom on the inner primary and use the tail end of the dial indicator to the sprocket the way your doing it a short block can be off by 50th and you not know it . use a longer straight edge go top to bottom .
What are the chances that the primary housing gasket surface was not machined perfectly parallel to the chain face? Should that surface be the datum? If you put a precision straight edge on both gear surfaces, would that verify the .056" out of alignment?
Mike Scheve that’s what I would do.
That’s the way the cam sprockets are measured.
Off each other.
Plus there’s probably some end play not being factored in.
Larry
Merry Christmas you are the best hope your doing well bought a Franken trany and drive from you 😀
Thank you for this video
The video is very much like keep shopping from us guys, for the much Baker charges It can come with some shims for increase or use a demel tool for remove some material for decrease adjustments.
A Dremel is a poor choice for machining round stock because it's so inaccurate. A lathe or surface grinder (or the correct shim stack in the first place) is the proper method.
@@obfuscated3090 If i spend $600 for a part i expect to fit right out the box otherwise is garbage because you finish spending over a $1000 dollars including labor and now also need a fitting job, the numbers and work makes no sense in a old bike. I bought this thing and comes with few shims I found the right one for my needs, eventually sold the bike with no problems but I dont go after market no more, personally stick with OEM and replace it when is required.
I agree that is not a good way to do it and your block is stamped with letter stamps so it it is no longer flat, unless it was machined flat afterwards.
The baker comp I have is not machined well and makes the chain loose tight loose tight, the center hole is not centered
That shift linkage is bent
Isn't the compensator bolt a torque to yield and one time use bolt? Do you replace that bolt after taking this measurement?
That is my question too
What was the measurement for the compensator in the beginning when you first started measuring? You didn't give the reading..
He zeroed the caliper so the second reading was just a differential reading.
Where oh where is it written that the primary surface is Sq with anything?
I am quite surprised at this vid from Baker, and its fallacies.
That is NOT how it is done at all to get it squared up.
Simply put, wow.....
I had to machine .050" off my extension shaft when I did mine.
You have proved nothing