My vote is to keep it stock. We run the snot out of our 1988 M998 on and off road. Even the little 6.2 can keep on ticking and keep on moving through some really harsh off-road conditions. While more power would be amazing - the rest of the machine is designed to work within a certain amount of power. When you over-power it, you'll spend the rest of your days hunting for the weakest link and missing out on actually using it off road. Just my .02 - but of course you asked. Comment for the google bots to count. If you do start off-roading you may find as we did that the rockers/floor are terribly exposed and need sliders badly. The fuel tank is super exposed - how we have avoided punching a hole in it is a miracle. If you take it off road you will want to set up some limb risers. The wide body makes it really hard to go through tight trails without bashing the windshield. You can check out my playlist of Humvee mods and our adventures. There is a lot of amazing things you can do with these things - just keep it simple. Oh - and top tip. AVOID the HF. I once was super attracted to the cheap tools - but, I have the scars and bills to prove why you shouldn't be sponsored by them, or use them. Good luck with the merch. I have yet to decide if that is something I'm interested in dealing with on my channel. I hope you get it running and actually use it off road - not a mall cruiser or show queen.
Thanks for your insight. All great advice. I took a screenshot of all this actually to keep with my Hmmwv stuff on my phone. It will be taken off-road and I have noticed how exposed the tank is. Even some of the H1 take of cages still leave opportunity for puncture so that’s on the list along with sliders. But further down the list. Gotta get it moving on its own first. And I had all the stuff to make limb risers for my old jeep. Since I’m a hoarder I probably still have all that cable and stuff. I’ll check out your page. Thanks!
Junkyard LS, or pull from a running GMT800 suburban. Keep same 4L80 trans. use factory HMMWV engine mounts and even the fan location on the LM7 works in the HMMWV shroud. Can use a simple LS engine swap harness or Holley Terminator X setup for future expansion of stuff. They run GREAT. I have three surplus 1097's and the one I LS swapped runs the best of the 3 and the engine has 300k miles on it. it is also MUCH more quiet than the other two diesels and doesn't require you to body lift the truck. keep in mind, if you go back with the 6.5 n/a motor, you will possibly have the same problems...and start box issues and 20+ year old wiring problems. Converting to LS AND going to 12V wiring gets rid of all the "oldness" of a HMMWV and really awakens them.
@@theOKHumvee swap harness and a simple ecu can be had for $600 or less. The Holley setup is more expensive but gets you the trans controller and tuning ability all in one package. Then you just need to convert lights to 12v and those are on eBay. Duramax and Cummins swaps are going to run $8k-10k at a minimum all in. I swapped the LS with the Terminator x with the engine for about 4500 and that included a fuel cell to fit under the driver seat since it wouldn't fit under the truck any more....truck got cut in half and shortened 18".
I’m a fan of the 6.6l duramax. Man that’s sucks sound like head gasket damage and spun rod bearings. If you are not able to hand crank it. Not much else but pulling it out. I’m gonna buy a shirt right now
glad I found you!!! I just binged watched all your 4 videos. I'm a huge homvee fan and constantly looking for homer stuff on TH-cam. I big question is could you explain your buy proses on gov planet. and with humvees not considered street legal how did you make it legal? I would go 12 valve and keep it fairly stock
Thanks for joining the fun and glad you like it! Also you’re subscriber number 500! And good ideas! I can do an overview of buying from govplanet. In Oklahoma they can be street legal so some of that depends on where you live.
Geez that sucks man, sorry about the motor. When i got my truck it was a non-runner from the auction. That first turn of the key was a stomach turner hoping it was not locked up. I personally think you only have two options for the motor. If you can afford, then the 12 valve. Otherwise just have the motor you have rebuild, will be much faster and cheaper.
Yeah it’s always a gamble. Hard part was it did turn over when I got it. But oh well. So you’d rebuild this one instead of getting a reman block to drop in?
@@theOKHumvee I am waiting on the patent office to finish. when they do I have the engine design that needs a heavy AWD to test the full ability of this design. 2x fuel milage 2x the power better low end torque. maybe 8.2 1/4 mile in a humvee
I’m a fan of the 6.6l duramax. Man that’s sucks sound like head gasket damage and spun rod bearings. If you are not able to hand crank it. Not much else but pulling it out. I’m gonna buy a shirt right now
My vote is to keep it stock. We run the snot out of our 1988 M998 on and off road. Even the little 6.2 can keep on ticking and keep on moving through some really harsh off-road conditions. While more power would be amazing - the rest of the machine is designed to work within a certain amount of power. When you over-power it, you'll spend the rest of your days hunting for the weakest link and missing out on actually using it off road. Just my .02 - but of course you asked. Comment for the google bots to count. If you do start off-roading you may find as we did that the rockers/floor are terribly exposed and need sliders badly. The fuel tank is super exposed - how we have avoided punching a hole in it is a miracle. If you take it off road you will want to set up some limb risers. The wide body makes it really hard to go through tight trails without bashing the windshield. You can check out my playlist of Humvee mods and our adventures. There is a lot of amazing things you can do with these things - just keep it simple. Oh - and top tip. AVOID the HF. I once was super attracted to the cheap tools - but, I have the scars and bills to prove why you shouldn't be sponsored by them, or use them. Good luck with the merch. I have yet to decide if that is something I'm interested in dealing with on my channel. I hope you get it running and actually use it off road - not a mall cruiser or show queen.
Thanks for your insight. All great advice. I took a screenshot of all this actually to keep with my Hmmwv stuff on my phone.
It will be taken off-road and I have noticed how exposed the tank is. Even some of the H1 take of cages still leave opportunity for puncture so that’s on the list along with sliders. But further down the list. Gotta get it moving on its own first. And I had all the stuff to make limb risers for my old jeep. Since I’m a hoarder I probably still have all that cable and stuff. I’ll check out your page. Thanks!
Good luck dude! As a father to a little one I know how excited they can get.
Thanks I appreciate it!
@@theOKHumveeI say to swap a replacement stock engine. That way you have spare parts
Junkyard LS, or pull from a running GMT800 suburban. Keep same 4L80 trans. use factory HMMWV engine mounts and even the fan location on the LM7 works in the HMMWV shroud. Can use a simple LS engine swap harness or Holley Terminator X setup for future expansion of stuff. They run GREAT. I have three surplus 1097's and the one I LS swapped runs the best of the 3 and the engine has 300k miles on it. it is also MUCH more quiet than the other two diesels and doesn't require you to body lift the truck. keep in mind, if you go back with the 6.5 n/a motor, you will possibly have the same problems...and start box issues and 20+ year old wiring problems. Converting to LS AND going to 12V wiring gets rid of all the "oldness" of a HMMWV and really awakens them.
Thats not a bad idea. The wiring is my big concern of getting all the brains of it setup correctly. But I guess a swap harness kit could solve that.
@@theOKHumvee swap harness and a simple ecu can be had for $600 or less. The Holley setup is more expensive but gets you the trans controller and tuning ability all in one package. Then you just need to convert lights to 12v and those are on eBay. Duramax and Cummins swaps are going to run $8k-10k at a minimum all in. I swapped the LS with the Terminator x with the engine for about 4500 and that included a fuel cell to fit under the driver seat since it wouldn't fit under the truck any more....truck got cut in half and shortened 18".
I'm sorry sorry brother. But hopefully we can all help you out. I just ordered some stuff. Good luck buddy.
Thanks I really appreciate it!
Mountain machine Motor mounts for Cummins no cutting or welding bolt on.
Have you used them?
@@theOKHumvee yes
Very easy 12v you will need 3” body lift
There's a reason engines are bolted in... they're meant to be removeable/replaceable. Great excuse to upgrade.
I’m a fan of the 6.6l duramax.
Man that’s sucks sound like head gasket damage and spun rod bearings. If you are not able to hand crank it. Not much else but pulling it out.
I’m gonna buy a shirt right now
Yeah I had a dramax and it made some fun sounds for sure. And thanks for your order!
glad I found you!!! I just binged watched all your 4 videos. I'm a huge homvee fan and constantly looking for homer stuff on TH-cam. I big question is could you explain your buy proses on gov planet. and with humvees not considered street legal how did you make it legal? I would go 12 valve and keep it fairly stock
Thanks for joining the fun and glad you like it! Also you’re subscriber number 500!
And good ideas! I can do an overview of buying from govplanet. In Oklahoma they can be street legal so some of that depends on where you live.
I vote 12 valve. That'd be sick!
Bet you could find me a deal on one somewhere in Tennessee!
Geez that sucks man, sorry about the motor. When i got my truck it was a non-runner from the auction. That first turn of the key was a stomach turner hoping it was not locked up. I personally think you only have two options for the motor. If you can afford, then the 12 valve. Otherwise just have the motor you have rebuild, will be much faster and cheaper.
Yeah it’s always a gamble. Hard part was it did turn over when I got it. But oh well. So you’d rebuild this one instead of getting a reman block to drop in?
No way humid air is enough to fuck up a cylinder that bad - there must have been a head gasket leak or something
lol yeah it’s humid but it’s not raining in my garage or anything.
Left a comment for the algorithm good luck!
Haha thanks
I am looking for one in this exact condition bad motor good everything else.
If you subscribe you’ll see a lot more of this one.
@@theOKHumvee you don't understand I am building a far better engine design
@@theOKHumvee better milage more horsepower faster speed increase
You’re right. I don’t understand.
@@theOKHumvee I am waiting on the patent office to finish. when they do I have the engine design that needs a heavy AWD to test the full ability of this design. 2x fuel milage 2x the power better low end torque. maybe 8.2 1/4 mile in a humvee
Hellcat engine.
I thought you were a OEM purist lol
check out some swaps from pela motors awesome work he does with these
They have some nice builds for sure.
Upgrade the motor to a 7.2 then Upgrade th transmission
That’d be sweet.
If you’re gonna spend the money, go 12 valve
Can I spend your money?
@@theOKHumvee I’m broke. I’ll help you install it though 😉
@@Bretthiggins22 deal
Tesla LDU
I would need @jerryrigeverything help me out.
Sell me your regulator
Might still need it.
@@theOKHumvee If you don’t let me know, mine just crashed on me
I’m a fan of the 6.6l duramax.
Man that’s sucks sound like head gasket damage and spun rod bearings. If you are not able to hand crank it. Not much else but pulling it out.
I’m gonna buy a shirt right now
Yeah I had a dramax and it made some fun sounds for sure. And thanks for your order!