I have no idea how to solder, so I took your advice and waited months for the thing to discharge. Woke up this morning and found that it the LEDs weren’t lighting when pressing the button. Lo and behold, it charges up just like your video. Starts at 4 LEDs and is now charging.
The lesson is to never throw away battery-owned electronics that suddenly stops working :) Well, they should have added a reset button. PD and PPS are finicky, so not surprised the C port is prone to issues.
I just tried with the PD 20000, and it is a bit different. For anyone trying this on the PD20000. 1. It is glued together a lot. Score it on the sides with a stanley blade or an opener and start to pry along the side seal until it pops. Do not focus on the USB openings or they will bend. 2. The PCB is in 2 parts. attached with pins to each other. The negative is in one side and the positive in the other. so no disordering needed. Just unplug and plug again carefully without bending the pins. This model has a bunch of foam glue inside. be careful with the pins! 3. Close again carefully trying to align the button in the right place.
I found an interesting solution to this exact issue! My powerbank was showing the same symptoms, I cut a cable open and shorted the positive and negative lines which activated the short circuit protection, which reset the powerbank and it started working normally again.
Thanks for the video. I got mine also back to working condition. But only desoldering the black (-) wire and proceeding what you explained was sufficient. 👍🏻
All that you have to do is trip the short circuit protection by shorting it with a USB a-c cable. It will then charge. A little easier than breaking out the soldering iron and screwdriver.
Interesting. I wasn't sure what was causing it, and I'd opened it up before...so I wanted to see what was going on inside. If it happens again, I will the to give that a try. Thanks for watching!
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel So it was weird again after I did that until it went through a full discharge charge cycle. But messing with the short protection eventually will get it to charge. Thanks for the video. I enjoyed getting to see inside, sort of demystifies the product when you can see the cells.
Hi matt, would like to know how do you trip it using usb a-c? I'm not so good with this kinds of things so if it's okay for you to guide me I'd appreciate it.
@@JJBonifacio You take a cable with a USB A end and a USB C end and plug both ends into the battery. Then try to charge again. This may take a few tries. Once it starts to charge, you must charge it all the way, then run a full 90 percent discharge before trying to charge again. This worked for me, and have gone through many weekly charge cycles of varying depths with no issue. Hope this works for you.
Bro I had a problem for months with this same power core and it just wouldn't charge. I'm in South Africa and there is no Anker Store to take it to and no electronics company I could find here that would fix it. I thought I would have to give some soldering a try for the first time after watching your video but today I plugged it in and it started charging! It was because you said that after a while it would probably drain to zero then reset itself. I had to do a reset with plugging a usb c cable to usb a port then press the power button at the end as well, but thanks so much!!!
Unsure of the 'safety' aspect of dong this, as I have the Anker 20,800 Man power bank, that''s no accepting a charge, and what you've shown is a little out of range of something I've ever done before. I've looked for a reset button, and no luck there, and while plugged in, the small 'flashlight' will light up, but not if the USB is disconnected, and I did try to charge my iPhone with it, and I get nothing. When plugging it in to charge the power bank, the 4 blue lights give a flash for half a second, then go out, thus I'm sure it's not charging, as they usually blink off an on as it's charging. I remember paying a lot for this power bank, and wish it had a 'reset' button, but I may have to figure out how to get it apart to do what you've shown here, reluctantly.
Bummer. But, you have a different power bank. I wouldn't recommend this process for what you are experiencing. The PowerCore+ wouldn't allow charge/discharge on the USB-C port. The other ports worked fine. If you can't charge or discharge, and it "lights up" when you plug it in, then this process might not work. Watch the video for the alternative I mentioned to opening it up.
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People do not appreciate power of desoldering battery from embeded stuff :D Fixed bluetooth speaker the same way a few days ago :D
Just got an Anker PowerCore III Elite from ebay (open box). It was completely discharged, so I started charging it, but in some 30 min it just died, with a strong burning insulation smell))
3.2V resting voltage is less than 5% for that chemistry, but still way above LG's cut-off voltage. The BMS likely went to hibernate mode and would not accept a charge for safety reasons. I would have manually charged the cells (hobby charger directly to the nickel strips) for a few minutes to get to the wake-up voltage and avoided all that desoldering and soldering. Some BMSs (notably Dell) will permanently lock-out if you do what you did.
Hey. Thanks for the feedback! Just a point of information: The pack wouldn't charge even after being discharged only slightly to a ~90% SOC (9 LEDs lit) after showing it was fully charged. So the cell voltages at that point were likely well above 3.2 Vdc, and probably closer to ~4.0 Vdc/cell. This is why I didn't try to directly charge the batteries, as I knew it was likely not a low-voltage lockout of the BMS. I agree that it is important to recognize that this is not a fix for every battery pack experiencing this issue. Thanks for watching! Also, does Dell make stand along battery packs, or are your referring to like a laptop battery?
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel I was talking about laptop batteries. If the bms detects an open circuit across any cell, it will permanently lock out, therefore hindering anyone trying to repair their own laptop battery. Obviously the way around that is to parallel the new cells to the old cells before removing the old cells. In your case, though, since it wasn't a low-voltage lockout, the BMS just needed a power-cycle, and disconnecting the battery was the only way to do that since I don't see any reset pin on that board.
Hi there. Great videos. I have the same anker battery pack which has worked great for the past years until my son managed to break the USB PD port somehow. Do you know if it can easily be fixed (changed). I have fixed phones but have no experience with batteries and soldering. Thank you
Thank you so much, brother. it's so a long time I decided to give up with this and just store it and buy a cheap power bank. But when I tidy up my room, I find it again, when I want to throw it away, I remember this price, it's not cheap, and I try to search for how to solve it on youtube, I found your video so helpful. Directly subscribed
Do you have a video showing how to change the USB C charging port? For a beginner? What do you recommend just buying a new anker? Mine on my anker 19000 has burnt.
It looks like mine is a later rev of this one, yours has a 2016 date on the pcb and mine is 2017. This one has a temp probe between the cells and the b+ and - are under the soldered on heat sink in the back. It seems mine is overcharged at 4.1v per bank. None of the ports work and every other light in the ring lights up only when you hold down the button. Now I’m trying to figure out how I should go about trying to discharge the cells, I’m thinking of putting a 16 ohm resistor on the pack and hoping for the best.
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel I also watched the teardown part 4 and this video but I have yet to see how to take out the pack from the chassis, I try to push but it is stuck.
@@Darkangelike Hmmm.... Ahh! You need to gently pry off the back cover with the label on it. I recommend a plastic pry tool, or a thin, narrow flat blade screwdriver. Beneath that are 4 Philips-head screws that needs to be removed. Perhaps I will do a short video demonstrating opening up the PowerCore+ 26800. Thanks for watching! Let me know if that helped!
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel Thank you for replying! I have indeed removed all 8 screws from the top and bottom of the battery after removing the two glued plastic covers. But then yes I am stuck. It is because my USB C port is "loose" and I wanted to resolder it. I need to remove the pack from the chassis to be able to work on the ports.
@@Darkangelike You are welcome! Wow, that's strange. I have a video coming up soon that just shows the full disassembly. Hopefully it helps. In the meantime, I noticed that it does take consistent, but firm pressure on the USB-port side to slide out the pack. How old is the PowerCore+?
I've got the exact situation. The USB type A ports are discharging but the USB type C is not working in either direction. Is it necessary to disconnect both leads or just one? I've tried reading about a reset, they say to use a Type C to Type A cable and connect them both and that'll do a reset but I haven't got that to work. Mine has a full charge right now. I've got a soldering iron (no solder sucker though, just some solder wick), what do I nee to be careful with when handling it?
Hey. That sucks. So, make sure it’s fully discharged before working on it, so drain it by using the USB-A ports. The watch the video. 😛 You might only need to disconnect the battery positive (B+), but the balancer might provide power reference back to logic level, and so to fully disconnect you’ll likely need to disconnect both. I’d recommend a solder sucker, but some work really well with the wick. Be careful so to not short the battery, and avoid desoldering from the battery cell side, always from the PCB side (when possible). I think thats it! Thanks for watching!
Yup, Anker 1000 pd here. Charged with a 5v 2amp 10 watt wall charger and it shut off. Now it wouldn't charge anything and when I try and charge it with any charger wall or PC the 3 lights light up, the 4th light blinks for about 1 second and then all the lights go off. Unplug and replug...does the same thing over again. Idk.
Bro i have the same problme i just got it n charged it once full time n used it all up n then put it to charge it showed the light like it was charging but whn i tryed using it its dead is there any reason that its not charging...
I had my ankler powerbank but i unboxed it for the first time i thought it was just empty bat. But when i charge it had chrge of two light leds. But if its never charge isnt working even i press the button on the light led not working either. I dont knows whats the problem of it
I just got this power bank around 10days ago and last night I was charging me phone with what was left.... It went all the way till the LED light remaining was blinking so I disconnected, now it won't take a charge. If this reset is the issue, why won't anker do some sort of reset button that disconnects and connects it back externally.
Anker really don't care. They at least don't lie and delete complaints, but they just ignore them. I reckon it's a production issue. I have a PowerCore+ PD 26800 that charges just fine. But the PowerCore III Elite I have is dead.
My same model power bank has the same issue. Anker don't care. It seems to be a manufacturing issue. For the amount they charge I was expecting good quality but it's not. No more Anker products for me.
My battery stopped working so I tool it apart but my problem wasn't the chip needing reset the usb-c thing just came off the board is there a way to repair this? Would soldering it on in the back be a bad move?
I bought this thing 2 years ago and never opened it. Then when I finally did open it last year, it didn't work at all right outta the box. I tried charging it for the 3 hours it was recommended and nothing really happened. I pushed the button the # of times it said in the manual and the light blinks green and then it just immediately turns off. No charging, no nothing. I went as far as emailing Anker and they said there was nothing they could do because it was passed the warranty period. I tried it again today and still nothing. Now it's just a paper weight. Anything you suggest to do with it? I'm mad that I spent like $160 for it not to work. -__-
So you left it unopened for 2 years. In that time period the cells have discharged to a level where the protection board thinks it’s unsafe to charge the batteries so what you need to do is to open it up, get an external power source and connect the output DIRECTLY to the batteries bypassing the protection board and this is what I’ll call “force-charging” and after some time it should start working. I’ll suggest desoldering the protection board before force-charging and resoldering after you force charge the batteries. If this helps let me know.
I have the same model but the BP and B- are in different locations. (I see 2016 date on your board vs 2017 for mine). The B- solder is under the 1 3/8" square shield(?) on the back(?). So, any reason I couldn't desolder the BP & B- on the battery pack (vs circuit board)? How risky is that?
Ok, yeah. Sorry I misread what you originally said. So long as you use something to sink heat away from the battery, and use a soldering iron set at as low a temperature that will work, it should be ok. However, I’d verify that cells are near fully discharged prior to soldering (~
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel I appreciate the "at your own risk"... Vdc is 3.3. More interestingly, looking closer my pack also has a think black 2-strand wire that connects under the LEDs. I'm guessing this is pulling power for something. Also (like yours??) there is a thicker wire from the top of the battery pack (looks like a white shield covering the wire on yours) to B+ on my the board. Also guessing/hoping if I disconnect the B- and BP this may reset the charger....thoughts?
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel Just confirming, removing and resoldering near the battery connections worked. Thanks for this video and the previous video on this Anker - we kept it out of the landfill.
I have an EMIGVELA 45W power bank that will not charge or discharge with USB C but it does discharge from the USB A port, so planning on trying to just disconnect the negarive and see if it works.
Well, no luck, unsoldered negative, plugged in external power, lcd did not light up, even when I touched the button (it just has an lcd no leds like the on in this video). IT was displaying 14 (14%) but no longer show anything on the lcd. I think I killed it.
Hi! I'm having a problem with my powerbank and can't find how to fix it anywhere. I have a poweradd Virgo II and I don't know how to dismantle it, scared I'm gonna break it, can you show me how its done? Thank you!
SO, I'm just going to ask this here before I rip my Anker apart. I have this exact same portable battery bank and I'm wanting to use it for a specific project, but the bank is too long for my use. I'm wondering if I could disconnect the bottom set of batteries, stack them on the side of the top set of batteries and reweld them back together. This would still make it the 26800 that it currently is, but would make the battery more like a square brick instead of longer. I understand it would no longer fit in the housing and I would probably either have to tape it all together or 3d print some housing for it all to fit back together in, but could this be done, is what I'm wondering?
Technically, yes. Is it recommended? No. That's a lot of stress on batteries that have already been packaged in a particular manner. It's also potentially easier to short out the pack with the positive and negative leads on the same side, rather than opposite sides, depending on the application. I specifically mention this, because you are mentioned taping or 3D printing something to hold it all together. Is it possible to use something like a PowerCore 13000, and parallel two of them up? Thanks for watching!
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel Thanks for the response. So the Amps per USB port ended up not being high enough and I ended up going with three Powecore II Slim 10000. Not ideal, as there isn't much room, but it should work for now.
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel ok cool I have a very similar pack and it's the same capacity but can output damn near 100 watts. 20v at like 4.44 Amps or something and I'm just trying to figure out what's going on mine lol. 8 of those cells as well but I'm not sure if they boost the 8 volts to 20 volts bv which will its self draw current and add in the loads current draw. I'm just wonder if mayby my pack is all in series which in total would be 24 volts and they just have a buck to drop to 20 and 15 and 9 and 5 lol. If that were the case though running anything wt 20v would drain it very very very fast if using 4 Amps. And I bv think I'd need to have bigger capacitirs in mine. With just boosting the 8 volts to 9 volts 15 and 20 the batteries can handle it. I wish somone would take apart the one I have in a video .
Would you know? same powerbank, does not charge, does not discharge, but does fake charging with lights circeling, but voltage never goes past 7.5. Tried usb c to usb a method. Could I try your method, or is it really kaput?
Can you please help me? i have a powercore III 26k 60W and he wont charging anymore. when i plugin into the wall power adapter(20w), the ring leds keeps blinking, can you help me please?
I did all of the steps but it didn't work for me. The batteries are fine and still have some charge. A continuity test confirms that it's wired up okay. I can't get the circuit board to work. Seems lots of other people have issues with their Anker power banks suddenly failing for no good reason. This is a really expensive power bank and for it to simply fail after basically sitting in a drawer is not acceptable. Anker aren't interested so I'll be avoiding their products from now on. I've got loads of other power banks, camera batteries, power tool batteries, etc and have had no real issues with them. Seems a shame to bin an almost $200 power bank with perfectly good batteries and ports. Make me feel ripped off.
I think I have an idea as to what is going on, but I need to run some experiments first. Hang on to the pack; I think we can resurrect it! It's gonna require a little time though, so hang tight! Thanks for watching!
The translation I am getting is from Portuguese, and it is indicating that you are looking for a "plate". Are you looking for where to get the complete battery pack? Or is there a specific part you are looking for? Hopefully this translates back. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. Mine has 5 lights in a star pattern light up when I press the button. Resetting by desoldering the battery didn't fix it :( I also was charing mine via a solar panel and i wonder if it fried something? Has anyone else fixed the 5 light issue?
I see that yours is V1.0 and mine is V1.2. I still have the 5 light error. I soldered a cigarette lighter port to it and used my car adapter directly to discharge the battery some. That still didn't resolve the issue :/ I may try recharging it again and doing another hard restart (disconnect balance and negative cables, then reconnect) and see if that fixes my 5 light error.
Depends on the part. It is possible to get a USB-C PD port, but the soldering bit could prove to be a bit of a challenge. Is the port physically damaged or not functioning for some other reason?
I have no idea how to solder, so I took your advice and waited months for the thing to discharge. Woke up this morning and found that it the LEDs weren’t lighting when pressing the button. Lo and behold, it charges up just like your video. Starts at 4 LEDs and is now charging.
That is awesome! So happy it started working again for you! Thanks for watching!
is there a thermistor on the anker batteries?
I have the exact same issue and can't solder. Should I just plug anything into the USB-A ports to discharge faster? Is it still working fine?
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel disadvantage other than needing to wait so long, is that lithium batteries degrade if not charged for so many months.
The lesson is to never throw away battery-owned electronics that suddenly stops working :) Well, they should have added a reset button. PD and PPS are finicky, so not surprised the C port is prone to issues.
I just tried with the PD 20000, and it is a bit different. For anyone trying this on the PD20000.
1. It is glued together a lot. Score it on the sides with a stanley blade or an opener and start to pry along the side seal until it pops. Do not focus on the USB openings or they will bend.
2. The PCB is in 2 parts. attached with pins to each other. The negative is in one side and the positive in the other. so no disordering needed. Just unplug and plug again carefully without bending the pins. This model has a bunch of foam glue inside. be careful with the pins!
3. Close again carefully trying to align the button in the right place.
You can reset Anker powerbanks by plugging in a usb to micro-usb cable with both ends for 15 seconds. It then blinks and is reset.
I found an interesting solution to this exact issue!
My powerbank was showing the same symptoms, I cut a cable open and shorted the positive and negative lines which activated the short circuit protection, which reset the powerbank and it started working normally again.
Thanks for the video.
I got mine also back to working condition. But only desoldering the black (-) wire and proceeding what you explained was sufficient. 👍🏻
Man this video saved a new out the box power core that was about to be binned. Thank you for making this video!
If any one reads this with a brand new faulty unit, do NOT take it apart. Send it back for refund/replacement!
Ridiculous there is not a reset button to accomplish that!
All that you have to do is trip the short circuit protection by shorting it with a USB a-c cable. It will then charge. A little easier than breaking out the soldering iron and screwdriver.
Interesting. I wasn't sure what was causing it, and I'd opened it up before...so I wanted to see what was going on inside. If it happens again, I will the to give that a try. Thanks for watching!
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel So it was weird again after I did that until it went through a full discharge charge cycle. But messing with the short protection eventually will get it to charge. Thanks for the video. I enjoyed getting to see inside, sort of demystifies the product when you can see the cells.
Hi matt, would like to know how do you trip it using usb a-c? I'm not so good with this kinds of things so if it's okay for you to guide me I'd appreciate it.
@@JJBonifacio You take a cable with a USB A end and a USB C end and plug both ends into the battery. Then try to charge again. This may take a few tries. Once it starts to charge, you must charge it all the way, then run a full 90 percent discharge before trying to charge again. This worked for me, and have gone through many weekly charge cycles of varying depths with no issue. Hope this works for you.
Best comment!
Can you take apart the Anker PowerCore III 26k 87W?
Bro I had a problem for months with this same power core and it just wouldn't charge. I'm in South Africa and there is no Anker Store to take it to and no electronics company I could find here that would fix it. I thought I would have to give some soldering a try for the first time after watching your video but today I plugged it in and it started charging! It was because you said that after a while it would probably drain to zero then reset itself. I had to do a reset with plugging a usb c cable to usb a port then press the power button at the end as well, but thanks so much!!!
Unsure of the 'safety' aspect of dong this, as I have the Anker 20,800 Man power bank, that''s no accepting a charge, and what you've shown is a little out of range of something I've ever done before. I've looked for a reset button, and no luck there, and while plugged in, the small 'flashlight' will light up, but not if the USB is disconnected, and I did try to charge my iPhone with it, and I get nothing. When plugging it in to charge the power bank, the 4 blue lights give a flash for half a second, then go out, thus I'm sure it's not charging, as they usually blink off an on as it's charging. I remember paying a lot for this power bank, and wish it had a 'reset' button, but I may have to figure out how to get it apart to do what you've shown here, reluctantly.
Bummer. But, you have a different power bank. I wouldn't recommend this process for what you are experiencing. The PowerCore+ wouldn't allow charge/discharge on the USB-C port. The other ports worked fine. If you can't charge or discharge, and it "lights up" when you plug it in, then this process might not work. Watch the video for the alternative I mentioned to opening it up.
People do not appreciate power of desoldering battery from embeded stuff :D
Fixed bluetooth speaker the same way a few days ago :D
You can put some heat shrink on the claws of your helping hands so that you can use it on live boards.
Just got an Anker PowerCore III Elite from ebay (open box). It was completely discharged, so I started charging it, but in some 30 min it just died, with a strong burning insulation smell))
3.2V resting voltage is less than 5% for that chemistry, but still way above LG's cut-off voltage. The BMS likely went to hibernate mode and would not accept a charge for safety reasons. I would have manually charged the cells (hobby charger directly to the nickel strips) for a few minutes to get to the wake-up voltage and avoided all that desoldering and soldering. Some BMSs (notably Dell) will permanently lock-out if you do what you did.
Hey. Thanks for the feedback! Just a point of information: The pack wouldn't charge even after being discharged only slightly to a ~90% SOC (9 LEDs lit) after showing it was fully charged. So the cell voltages at that point were likely well above 3.2 Vdc, and probably closer to ~4.0 Vdc/cell. This is why I didn't try to directly charge the batteries, as I knew it was likely not a low-voltage lockout of the BMS. I agree that it is important to recognize that this is not a fix for every battery pack experiencing this issue. Thanks for watching!
Also, does Dell make stand along battery packs, or are your referring to like a laptop battery?
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel I was talking about laptop batteries. If the bms detects an open circuit across any cell, it will permanently lock out, therefore hindering anyone trying to repair their own laptop battery. Obviously the way around that is to parallel the new cells to the old cells before removing the old cells. In your case, though, since it wasn't a low-voltage lockout, the BMS just needed a power-cycle, and disconnecting the battery was the only way to do that since I don't see any reset pin on that board.
Do you know the exact model number for the pd c port so I can replace it ?
Hi there. Great videos. I have the same anker battery pack which has worked great for the past years until my son managed to break the USB PD port somehow. Do you know if it can easily be fixed (changed). I have fixed phones but have no experience with batteries and soldering. Thank you
Thank you so much, brother. it's so a long time I decided to give up with this and just store it and buy a cheap power bank. But when I tidy up my room, I find it again, when I want to throw it away, I remember this price, it's not cheap, and I try to search for how to solve it on youtube, I found your video so helpful. Directly subscribed
Do you have a video showing how to change the USB C charging port? For a beginner? What do you recommend just buying a new anker? Mine on my anker 19000 has burnt.
It looks like mine is a later rev of this one, yours has a 2016 date on the pcb and mine is 2017. This one has a temp probe between the cells and the b+ and - are under the soldered on heat sink in the back. It seems mine is overcharged at 4.1v per bank. None of the ports work and every other light in the ring lights up only when you hold down the button. Now I’m trying to figure out how I should go about trying to discharge the cells, I’m thinking of putting a 16 ohm resistor on the pack and hoping for the best.
Would you be able to show a vide of how you removed the sled once you had all the screws out?
There is a card in the video that should take you to the playlist for the four part series I did on that battery pack. The teardown is in Part 4.
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel I also watched the teardown part 4 and this video but I have yet to see how to take out the pack from the chassis, I try to push but it is stuck.
@@Darkangelike Hmmm.... Ahh! You need to gently pry off the back cover with the label on it. I recommend a plastic pry tool, or a thin, narrow flat blade screwdriver. Beneath that are 4 Philips-head screws that needs to be removed. Perhaps I will do a short video demonstrating opening up the PowerCore+ 26800. Thanks for watching! Let me know if that helped!
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel Thank you for replying! I have indeed removed all 8 screws from the top and bottom of the battery after removing the two glued plastic covers. But then yes I am stuck. It is because my USB C port is "loose" and I wanted to resolder it. I need to remove the pack from the chassis to be able to work on the ports.
@@Darkangelike You are welcome! Wow, that's strange. I have a video coming up soon that just shows the full disassembly. Hopefully it helps. In the meantime, I noticed that it does take consistent, but firm pressure on the USB-port side to slide out the pack. How old is the PowerCore+?
I've got the exact situation. The USB type A ports are discharging but the USB type C is not working in either direction. Is it necessary to disconnect both leads or just one?
I've tried reading about a reset, they say to use a Type C to Type A cable and connect them both and that'll do a reset but I haven't got that to work.
Mine has a full charge right now. I've got a soldering iron (no solder sucker though, just some solder wick), what do I nee to be careful with when handling it?
Hey. That sucks. So, make sure it’s fully discharged before working on it, so drain it by using the USB-A ports. The watch the video. 😛 You might only need to disconnect the battery positive (B+), but the balancer might provide power reference back to logic level, and so to fully disconnect you’ll likely need to disconnect both. I’d recommend a solder sucker, but some work really well with the wick. Be careful so to not short the battery, and avoid desoldering from the battery cell side, always from the PCB side (when possible). I think thats it! Thanks for watching!
Yup, Anker 1000 pd here. Charged with a 5v 2amp 10 watt wall charger and it shut off. Now it wouldn't charge anything and when I try and charge it with any charger wall or PC the 3 lights light up, the 4th light blinks for about 1 second and then all the lights go off. Unplug and replug...does the same thing over again. Idk.
Sorry to hear that. Which battery specifically? I might actually have that one.
Exactly what I needed brother. Thanks!
Hi, I have the same powerbank and it is taking forever to charge. Is there a reset ?
Bro i have the same problme i just got it n charged it once full time n used it all up n then put it to charge it showed the light like it was charging but whn i tryed using it its dead is there any reason that its not charging...
I had my ankler powerbank but i unboxed it for the first time i thought it was just empty bat. But when i charge it had chrge of two light leds. But if its never charge isnt working even i press the button on the light led not working either. I dont knows whats the problem of it
Bummer. Have you tried the method described in the video? Or the other methods suggested in comments?
I just got this power bank around 10days ago and last night I was charging me phone with what was left.... It went all the way till the LED light remaining was blinking so I disconnected, now it won't take a charge. If this reset is the issue, why won't anker do some sort of reset button that disconnects and connects it back externally.
Anker really don't care. They at least don't lie and delete complaints, but they just ignore them.
I reckon it's a production issue. I have a PowerCore+ PD 26800 that charges just fine. But the PowerCore III Elite I have is dead.
My same model power bank has the same issue. Anker don't care. It seems to be a manufacturing issue. For the amount they charge I was expecting good quality but it's not. No more Anker products for me.
My battery stopped working so I tool it apart but my problem wasn't the chip needing reset the usb-c thing just came off the board is there a way to repair this? Would soldering it on in the back be a bad move?
I bought this thing 2 years ago and never opened it. Then when I finally did open it last year, it didn't work at all right outta the box. I tried charging it for the 3 hours it was recommended and nothing really happened. I pushed the button the # of times it said in the manual and the light blinks green and then it just immediately turns off. No charging, no nothing. I went as far as emailing Anker and they said there was nothing they could do because it was passed the warranty period. I tried it again today and still nothing. Now it's just a paper weight. Anything you suggest to do with it? I'm mad that I spent like $160 for it not to work. -__-
Same issue for me. No help from Anker so I'm now taking it apart. Wish me luck. 😏
So you left it unopened for 2 years. In that time period the cells have discharged to a level where the protection board thinks it’s unsafe to charge the batteries so what you need to do is to open it up, get an external power source and connect the output DIRECTLY to the batteries bypassing the protection board and this is what I’ll call “force-charging” and after some time it should start working. I’ll suggest desoldering the protection board before force-charging and resoldering after you force charge the batteries. If this helps let me know.
I have the same model but the BP and B- are in different locations. (I see 2016 date on your board vs 2017 for mine). The B- solder is under the 1 3/8" square shield(?) on the back(?). So, any reason I couldn't desolder the BP & B- on the battery pack (vs circuit board)? How risky is that?
Odd. Do you see the same three wires coming from the battery pack: positive, cell monitor (BP), and negative?
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel yes, same colors wires and connected to the batteries in the same location.
Ok, yeah. Sorry I misread what you originally said. So long as you use something to sink heat away from the battery, and use a soldering iron set at as low a temperature that will work, it should be ok. However, I’d verify that cells are near fully discharged prior to soldering (~
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel I appreciate the "at your own risk"... Vdc is 3.3. More interestingly, looking closer my pack also has a think black 2-strand wire that connects under the LEDs. I'm guessing this is pulling power for something. Also (like yours??) there is a thicker wire from the top of the battery pack (looks like a white shield covering the wire on yours) to B+ on my the board. Also guessing/hoping if I disconnect the B- and BP this may reset the charger....thoughts?
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel Just confirming, removing and resoldering near the battery connections worked. Thanks for this video and the previous video on this Anker - we kept it out of the landfill.
I have to replace usb c port do you know which I can use.
I have an EMIGVELA 45W power bank that will not charge or discharge with USB C but it does discharge from the USB A port, so planning on trying to just disconnect the negarive and see if it works.
Well, no luck, unsoldered negative, plugged in external power, lcd did not light up, even when I touched the button (it just has an lcd no leds like the on in this video). IT was displaying 14 (14%) but no longer show anything on the lcd. I think I killed it.
Can I just get a replacement board? Might not be worth it.
Perhaps I misread but did you plug it back in to external power with the battery negative disconnected?
Hi! I'm having a problem with my powerbank and can't find how to fix it anywhere. I have a poweradd Virgo II and I don't know how to dismantle it, scared I'm gonna break it, can you show me how its done? Thank you!
SO, I'm just going to ask this here before I rip my Anker apart. I have this exact same portable battery bank and I'm wanting to use it for a specific project, but the bank is too long for my use. I'm wondering if I could disconnect the bottom set of batteries, stack them on the side of the top set of batteries and reweld them back together. This would still make it the 26800 that it currently is, but would make the battery more like a square brick instead of longer. I understand it would no longer fit in the housing and I would probably either have to tape it all together or 3d print some housing for it all to fit back together in, but could this be done, is what I'm wondering?
Technically, yes. Is it recommended? No. That's a lot of stress on batteries that have already been packaged in a particular manner. It's also potentially easier to short out the pack with the positive and negative leads on the same side, rather than opposite sides, depending on the application. I specifically mention this, because you are mentioned taping or 3D printing something to hold it all together. Is it possible to use something like a PowerCore 13000, and parallel two of them up? Thanks for watching!
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel Thanks for the response. So the Amps per USB port ended up not being high enough and I ended up going with three Powecore II Slim 10000. Not ideal, as there isn't much room, but it should work for now.
I dropped mine it chargers but when I disconnect it lights won’t come on or charge
Do you know what the maximum input charge rate is?
For this version the input charge rate is 30 watts, but I believe there are versions that can charge at up to 87 watts.
So the way the pack is connected its like around 7v right?
Close yeah: ~8.4 Vdc fully charged; ~7.4 Vdc nominal.
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel ok cool I have a very similar pack and it's the same capacity but can output damn near 100 watts. 20v at like 4.44 Amps or something and I'm just trying to figure out what's going on mine lol. 8 of those cells as well but I'm not sure if they boost the 8 volts to 20 volts bv which will its self draw current and add in the loads current draw. I'm just wonder if mayby my pack is all in series which in total would be 24 volts and they just have a buck to drop to 20 and 15 and 9 and 5 lol. If that were the case though running anything wt 20v would drain it very very very fast if using 4 Amps. And I bv think I'd need to have bigger capacitirs in mine. With just boosting the 8 volts to 9 volts 15 and 20 the batteries can handle it. I wish somone would take apart the one I have in a video .
Wait, How did you reset it?
Would you know? same powerbank, does not charge, does not discharge, but does fake charging with lights circeling, but voltage never goes past 7.5. Tried usb c to usb a method. Could I try your method, or is it really kaput?
I don't know. Might be worth a shot. Thanks for watching. Let us know how it goes!
Tried it and it did not work, nothing works to get it to charge or discharge..
please help me with my anker 26k powercore III. It wont charges anymore, but the ring leds keeps blinking.
can someone help me? i can pay
My Anker also died after two years. No warranty, what a crappy product. I am never going to buy it again.
Im glad you did all these videoes
Thanks for watching!
Can you please help me? i have a powercore III 26k 60W and he wont charging anymore. when i plugin into the wall power adapter(20w), the ring leds keeps blinking, can you help me please?
Same problem
@@ZiRo815 Anker sent me a Brand new one!!! Amazing support, I recommend you to contact them!
Amazing good to know
I did all of the steps but it didn't work for me. The batteries are fine and still have some charge. A continuity test confirms that it's wired up okay. I can't get the circuit board to work.
Seems lots of other people have issues with their Anker power banks suddenly failing for no good reason. This is a really expensive power bank and for it to simply fail after basically sitting in a drawer is not acceptable. Anker aren't interested so I'll be avoiding their products from now on.
I've got loads of other power banks, camera batteries, power tool batteries, etc and have had no real issues with them.
Seems a shame to bin an almost $200 power bank with perfectly good batteries and ports. Make me feel ripped off.
I think I have an idea as to what is going on, but I need to run some experiments first. Hang on to the pack; I think we can resurrect it! It's gonna require a little time though, so hang tight! Thanks for watching!
bom dia aonde eu posso compra uma placa dessa ai preciso de uma placa com urgência obrigado
The translation I am getting is from Portuguese, and it is indicating that you are looking for a "plate". Are you looking for where to get the complete battery pack? Or is there a specific part you are looking for? Hopefully this translates back. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. Mine has 5 lights in a star pattern light up when I press the button. Resetting by desoldering the battery didn't fix it :( I also was charing mine via a solar panel and i wonder if it fried something? Has anyone else fixed the 5 light issue?
I noticed that occasionally on the now almost four year old pack. You are not alone! I'll be investigating further! Thanks for watching!
@@TheCuriousEngineerChannel have you fixed that issue before on your pack? What made it go away?
I see that yours is V1.0 and mine is V1.2. I still have the 5 light error. I soldered a cigarette lighter port to it and used my car adapter directly to discharge the battery some. That still didn't resolve the issue :/ I may try recharging it again and doing another hard restart (disconnect balance and negative cables, then reconnect) and see if that fixes my 5 light error.
And now it works! Left it sitting for awhile after discharging it and then charging it and now it works after leaving it alone for a week.
This power bank not good. I use this power bank very problem. I have been changed 2 times still a problem.
That sucks. Perhaps a defective USB-C cable or charger?
thanks dude
Can I buy parts for this power bank anywhere? Just found out that the usb c port it messed up.
Depends on the part. It is possible to get a USB-C PD port, but the soldering bit could prove to be a bit of a challenge. Is the port physically damaged or not functioning for some other reason?
Anker has a build-in obsolescence in it products..
I Swear mine stopped working the day Guarantee run out😢
Cost more to repair it >< i just buy a new one....
This hunk of junk won't charge past the second LED and charges a phone twice n packs in.
2s 4p