I went through 3 of those exact powerbank all with precisely the issue you had. I found that if they are left discharged for any great length of time, they s**t themselves and die, then subsequently refuse to take a charge. Good job on fixing it!
Mine got completely drained while I was charging a cellphone and that was the end of it 🪦. I tried recharging it within a minute after it got drained and it just didn't work anymore. It lasted 11 months. I called Anker and got a replacement right away.
Wow, nice fix ! I bought 6 or 7 of the 20,000-mAh Power Banks for USB lighting when the power goes out. I bought several 12" and 19" USB powered LED Under Cabinet lights, to pair up with each battery bank. Lots of light, and they go anywhere I need it, without toting about some huge "SOLAR Generator" just for a bit of light. Great video !!!
This was extremely useful, I have one of these that failed but couldn't figure out how to get it apart, I'd assumed the lid was glued in place so might give it another go. I should add it failed not long after buying it and Anker support sent me a free replacement and didn't require the old unit returning which I thought was pretty good customer service.
Thank you for making and sharing this video. Now we know what it takes and does when you open the case and that sometimes is the biggest problem for most electronic devices today. Just depends on the manufacturer...and most are the "use and then throw away and skip the repair ability"...cuts into their profits.
Its not just because youre not supposed to repair them. Its also about the looks. Customers dont want devices with visible screws or visible screw covers.
Thanks for making this video, I just got my year old power bank working again because of you. One of the battery connections was bad on mine. It looks to be spot wielded from the factory. I repaired mine with an extremely questionable soldering job. Thanks again.
Little anecdote for you- I was futzing around with a similar unit. Got it open, and while poking around at its innards I managed to create a short. The unit started to smoke, so I jumped up, grabbed it, and took it out quickly and left it on the concrete patio. It then caught fire, and gave a good show like a firework. I wasn't going to hit it with water. So, a lesson well learned that time.
I call this MFD...manufactured for disposal. Clear that this was made to be thrown away. Also clear designers knew drops would cause damage to inductor...thus the goo, instead of a different design that would actually prevent inductor from breaking away. Thanks for showing they can be fixed. And in particular...how the case is held together.
Honestly one of the best repair jobs i’ve seen especially with your explanation of the process in a detailed manner, i bought this same unit two weeks ago and i’m facing the same issue, i always wondered what would be the cause for it, already contacted anker support and hopefully they’ll send in a replacement, in case i get to keep the old unit, I’ll probably use your video for reference and repair it. Thanks mate.
I think the micro controller handles the differnt voltages and current for which ever device you a using. Examle fast charge for phone's etc. I also think it also controls the trickle charge for a completely dead battery then changes it to normal, then stops it.
Nice easy fix, once you got in to it. What a pain to open up! I have replaced a few cells in power banks but never any luck on the electronics side when they fail. Never a lose inductor or connector. I think the one chip is the BMS for the cell and the MCU controls the PD levels of output. Since that one controller didn't have any data lines connected, just the positive and negative connections. So no way to interrogate a charge level without the data lines. But, that one schematic you showed could have just been one option too, not sure if other options.
Thanks, yes there was other options on the main chip in the PDF and there was pins on the chip that match the rest of them on the USB C called CC1 CC2 DMC DPC but I didn't look into it too much with it being written in Chinese. A few people suggested Google lens so might have another look 👍
Excellent video. I've always found Anker products very well engineered especially their high quality charging Leads & power banks. The leads are Much better than the cheap ones provided with most phones.
I used a heat gun to soften the deformed plastic edges and then passed the screwdriver shaft over for smoothing. Moderate heat also helps to prise those double sided plastic clips open! They are a pain!
Great little fix, always wondered what the reason for the white stuff was and now I know, fun and educational what more can you ask for 😊 you could always ask the missus to knit a little pouch for it 😁
Great fix once again! have you ever tried using your hot air station to warm up the warped plastic with practice screwdriver method you used can get decent results.
I have an Anker power bank that didn't work too well after a year and a bit, so I took it appart (same problem getting the case appart ) it has four round cells so I ordered four from a on line vape store, when dismantling the pack, one had not been connected so it was operating on three, it has lasted a lot longer since.
@@BuyitFixit haha! Yes! It’s not a common name, hard to be incognito! Found you channel when I was researching a fix video of my own, been making my way through your back catalogue since! 👍🏼
Yes, a couple of people mentioned it. I had totally forgotten about that, as normally copy and paste into Google translate. I'll have to remember that, and thanks for letting me know 🙂👍
I have found quite a few power banks in the student scavenging every June. I got an old Anker one this year that looks like it has 4 18650s in it. It's about that size. I got one like your Anker in the battery recycling bin an Aldi last week, similar battery had swelled, dislodging the solar panel that was on it. So I guess they threw it out. It's a neat little panel, though how long it would take to charge from the panel is anyone's guess.
My brother just recently gifted me one of these for emergencies. Part of me understands why they don't want people messing around inside of these. It's a lot of juice and if you puncture the pouch cell things could get nasty, at the same time I wish it wasn't intended to be so disposable, especially if it seems to have a known weakness in that part breaking.
As someone who has seen the inside of a fair few powerbanks, what one would you recommend? Got the same issue, Anker 26800PD stopped taking charge, seems to be faulty usbc port
Hi Alex, I'm not too sure on that one. I've seen inside a few but they are all pretty much just a battery with a control board. You could always make your own (which would be more serviceable) as you can buy power bank boards on Aliexpress for around £2 or so. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005649223878.html then hook up some 18650's in parallel (you can get 18650 holders too)
Very interesting video, I have this exact same power bank I bought years ago on Amazon, when I plug it into a usb to charge the lights flash but it doesn't actually take any charge, I have to keep unplugging it and reconnecting it for ages, eventually it does start charging, I wonder if the same component solder is fractured and needs reflowing?
It could be, or it might possibly be a bad connection on the USB C port or damaged USB C port. That's what I thought would be the issue with this one before I opened it.
Another nice little fix Mick, well done. A nice little Power Bank is quite handy to have available. I use mine a lot for powering little electronics projects I'm working on like Arduino based stuff for example. They're great for testing before giving the project it's own proper power supply. The only downside is that sometimes they auto power off because I'm not drawing enough current, but still a handy thing to have on the work bench for sure.
Where is that you started in trying to find the data sheet for the charger. I'm looking for the data sheet for my anker a1260. The usb port-a output port broke and I am having no luck finding the 12mm female usb-a 4 pin 4 leg port that is used.
@@BuyitFixit Oh ok I see. I'm assuming that it was a proprietary usb A port that they used back when i purchased it in 2017 because all of the teardown videos that I've seen reappear to use a different port. I will continue my search to see if there is a suitable replacement that fit my purposes. Thank you
What is the milky goo? Years ago when i used to fix VCRs Panasonic used to out a conductive goo on the power supply area. After it dried out and got hot (usually a couple of years) it would short out the piwer supply. Planned obsolescence.
I'm not sure, I think it's silicone stuff. I did come across some conductive glue on the JVC HiFi with valves in it that I looked at in a video a while back 👍
I think that's quite common EEV blog made a video of a pair of studio monitors that the glue went conductive and they were only produced a few years ago. It will probably keep happening in future with companies trying to save a few bucks and purchasing the cheapest glue they can find.
Just had the exact same problem with the exact power bank. Anker sent me a new one under warranty. Now I just need to do this repair and I'll have a spare one 😂
Google lens on your phone does a pretty good job with chinese translation. Some good strung suction cups or pullers stuck on with VHB will get you in that type of case but you need to know its that type of case to begin with, maybe next time 😊
Thanks Vince 🙂Yes nightmare to get into. I'm pretty sure done on purpose. How did you get on with your ender 3? I bought a faulty ender 5 pro, was going to do a video on it but it had the old 8 bit board in it, so just ordered a 32 bit one so it would have been a fairly boring video I thought so didn't bother. Had a nightmare with firmware though, as the manufacturer's version is about 2 years out of date and printed backwards. Ended up having to compile my own from the latest Marlin. All working fine now though and busy printing cosplay stuff for my daughter 😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit 😂 Well I still haven't even unboxed it!! I need to firstly find a place to put it (lack of room and also i need to think about noise) and I just seem to be so busy filming, editing. Also truth be told the RR car takes up a ridiculous amount of time, it all leaves very little time to learn this new skill. I'm sure when I start I won't look back, I just need an extra 4 hours a day and my life would be sorted. Have you found TH-cam has taken over your life yet?
Funny you should say that. I seem to find it hard to even do 1 a week these days I've got about 3 or 4 items in various stages of diagnosis and repair and awaiting parts or trying to find datasheets, editing etc I know exactly what you mean. I need to try and get a few videos ahead as I'm usually finishing editing on the same day of releasing 😂😂😂 perhaps I just need to pull my finger out a bit 🤔🤷♂️
Hi, interesting video 👍. Do you think the goo was purely for securing the inductor? There seemed to be similar/same goo around a capacitor as well. I suppose product testing may have found a propensity for those components to break free when the bank is dropped. I can’t imagine it would have been applied unless there was a known issue, companies don’t tend to go to additional expense unnecessarily. Is there a way to test the inductor before resoldering it to the board? Now you have opened it do you think you have a better method if you were to have to open another bank?
Thanks 👍Yes I think the glue is purely for mechanical strength. I've seen similar on some other devices especially with larger components. I think it might be possible to hot glue a handle or something to the lid, or perhaps a suction cup and try to pull the lid off, but I'm not convinced.
I had thought that, but the other power bank chip supports PD1 PD2 Lightning, and fast charging too. There's a few schematic in that PDF showing different configurations.
I've got one I've been on and off trying to get open for a week or two now. Spent hours. All I've done is scratch up the plastic. I think it's Dremel time.
Very likely poor soldering flow due to the large thermal mass of the inductor, if they never dialed this in or tested for it with vibration/shock, it means they might all suffer from a very weak and 'dry' solder joint in this area. I've reflowed many components, and inductors like this with high weight density, definitely take some work to do right, more-so than many other components.
9:12 It is obvious that the manufacturer knows about this problem or else they haven't put that goo there. Unfortunately you are doing the same mistake. By putting solder on both sides it will add stress to the solder tracks and the solder. Add solder to one side, solder it and then add solder to the other side when the component lies flat against the surface.
And now they are making Anker PowerCore III Elite that is impossible to re pair at all. Just got mine from the service, they failed even to disassemble it. Everything is glued inside.
I have a Lidl branded Tronic TDP 10000, and is quite similar to this but would output fine, mine would not charge after a few cycles. May need to charge it externally to see if the cell is bad, bit think the charging regulator forgot how and at what rate.
There is a PowerCore 20000 and a PowerCore 20000 PD. Perhaps the PD version has an extra microcontroller it uses to communicate with devices to negotiate how much power it sends? Even if this is not the PD version, it could still have the extra microcontroller inside but just not enabled or something.
Great fix. A suggestion is to use a plastic or ceramic tool to remove glutinous material (in a powered device). A spark, flash, bang, wallop etc would be amusing, but may shorten the video somewhat.
By the looks of the thickness of that battery cell, I highly doubt if this is a 20000mAh power bank. There are just two 5000mah cells there and so it's a 10000 mah. And don't mind, but buying a 10kmah for parts powerbank for $6 is foolish. Because those cells in there are generic chinese factory made that costs just under $5 new. Well if you have some environmental or any other reasons to repair it that's okay. Love your videos though. Great content as ever 👍👍
@@BuyitFixit most powerbanks are built not to be opened unfortunately, they could put a screw on lid with a gasket but it's probably down to ease of build and cost along with h@s . That place you mentioned before ( Brewery mine ) sounds interesting
@@UserUser-ww2nj Yes, brewery shaft. Theres a video on TH-cam of the pelton turbine and machine house at the bottom. It's something stupid like 100 meters straight down...
@@BuyitFixit Pelton turbine is the one with the cups I think .I did briefly look into it and saw a video of a guy who abseiled down 80 meters. The going down is o.k but coming up dammed hard work 🤣 🇺🇦🌻🌻🌻
Looks like it wasn't soldered properly, the inductor being the highest thermal mass component with wide tracks I would guess that the reflow profile wasn't adjusted properly for that part. With a good rework and the extra help of leaded solder it shouldn't come out again.
Yes, I had been thinking was it the use of non leaded solder, as I think it's more brittle than leaded. I had a similar thing in the last video with the induction cooker.
Yes, I did think that too, once I knew how it worked. Even perhaps hot gluing something to the top of the case and then use IPA to release it. I'll have to keep a look out for a decent suction cup 👍
So it's the microtroller for the charging of the battery from the phone charger going to the charge controller to monitor the batteries voltage.But apparently it fasts out and you gotta put the new one in.
How did toy clean up the silicone almost completely off camera? Is it ok that they foil hangs over the board loosely and maybe shorts something? EU lawmakers need to move faster to force such devices to be openable.
I've got two. I did a video on the adonstar and the one I normally use a few videos back. My main one is a trinocular on a boom arm, with a 48mp camera which has hdmi and records to SD. The only problem I have with it is that even on minimum zoom and fitted with a .5x lens it's still a bit zoomed in too much for TH-cam videos.
I took my husbands apart and I didn’t quite have the same you had when I open his the right spot weld is undone and the taps more less free just pushed back I put it back down and it has lights flashing again but just continues to flash a single on coasionally I can get it to do 1-4 in repeat 1 2 3 4 and other tokens it just flashes 1 moving around the cord and plugging it up seems to sometimes get it to initate a charge and some times it doesn’t also The tab weather pressing on it or lifting it and pressing back down he also changed both to the same things
Don't you just love those simple fixes? 🙂 Nice repair. Removing the annoying lid of the casing was the worst part for you - yet another example of a company that doesn't want (or can't be bothered) to make their products repairable and instead most faulty units end up as landfill. All countries need to pass and and rigorously enforce laws to ensure that all electronics and other devices (mechanical and otherwise) are repairable for those with the right skills, but of course it'll never happen because too many governments and politicians are in the back pockets of the large corporations as well as indulging in the usual political and trade machinations with China, etc.
Even with such Legislation, the _vast_ majority of consumers lack the skills, tools, and motivation to repair things themselves. Repair is only a viable option when the cost is significantly less than replacement, and no professional can work in such an environment. A co-worker was recently in a major car accident. His vehicle suffered massive damage, including a bent frame, to the point that repairs would cost more than the value of the vehicle. He has the "right" to repair it, but it makes no economic sense to do so.
Hi, I have a Lenovo ideapad S145, it turns on, the on/off lights up solid blue, the fan runs for a while and the ssd hdd gets hot but that's it, nothing else happens, no screen, nothing, I've tried all the suggested tests, resets, battery tests (ok), charger tests (ok) on youtube but nothing changes. Any suggestions?
Hmmm I've not worked on one but the fact the ssd gets hot doesn't seem right. Have you tried removing the ssd? I usually start by trying to remove stuff that's no essential (if possible) you should still get a bios screen or something with the ssd and wifi (if removable) removed for instance. Next thing can you remove any ram etc
In that case sounds like a problem on the main board, I'd perhaps check mosfets for shorts with a test meter, or if you had a thermal camera that may help pinpoint the problem.
@@BuyitFixit Thanks again, I don't have a thermal camera, with the ssd and wifi cards removed and by feeling with my lip nothing is getting even slightly warm except the cpu which gets warm then the fan comes on and it remains stable but nothing seems to do anything, no caps or number lock lights, just the on/off lights and the on light at the side. I just tried the usb ports and they all charge my phone.
Hard to say. Are there any surface mount fuses or links like zero ohm resistors on the board. I'd be checking those, and I'd check for shorted mosfets. It could be anything from corrupt firmware to a failed IC or a bad connection under an IC. Hard to say without testing things.
I bet this is the same issue I am having. Bought a brand new one that won't charge, but came fully charged and it worked fine until I went to charge it.
Man, i have three of those and they all have the same problem. They won't charge up. Of course I don't have the receipts so thats $120 that I'm out. The first one lasted a few months, the second a few weeks and the third one only lasted a few days. Frustrating. I wrote anker and they asked for my receipt. Dammit, ive been a loyal customer but with these and the cords not lasting as long i may have to find a new supplier.
My theory Assembler was told to ppt silicone on both sides but was lazy. Silicone shrinks while curing and stresses solder joints instead of supporting them. Amazon driver throws package at front porch, lazy.
I went through 3 of those exact powerbank all with precisely the issue you had.
I found that if they are left discharged for any great length of time, they s**t themselves and die, then subsequently refuse to take a charge.
Good job on fixing it!
Thanks Alex, interesting that it seems a common problem 👍
I just got a brand new one and it wouldnt charge at all lol
already got my refund and bought a new one from different brand tho
@@MrCowH Sounds like this might be a fairly common issue.
Same here. Bought it for my infrequent charging needs. Used it maybe twice, now it's dead.
Mine got completely drained while I was charging a cellphone and that was the end of it 🪦. I tried recharging it within a minute after it got drained and it just didn't work anymore. It lasted 11 months. I called Anker and got a replacement right away.
Wow, nice fix ! I bought 6 or 7 of the 20,000-mAh Power Banks for USB lighting when the power goes out. I bought several 12" and 19" USB powered LED Under Cabinet lights, to pair up with each battery bank. Lots of light, and they go anywhere I need it, without toting about some huge "SOLAR Generator" just for a bit of light. Great video !!!
Thanks 👍ingenious solution, and portable 👍
This was extremely useful, I have one of these that failed but couldn't figure out how to get it apart, I'd assumed the lid was glued in place so might give it another go. I should add it failed not long after buying it and Anker support sent me a free replacement and didn't require the old unit returning which I thought was pretty good customer service.
Thanks 👍or perhaps they know it's a problem and happens often?
Thank you for making and sharing this video. Now we know what it takes and does when you open the case and that sometimes is the biggest problem for most electronic devices today. Just depends on the manufacturer...and most are the "use and then throw away and skip the repair ability"...cuts into their profits.
Thanks 🙂Yes agree, it's sometimes harder to work out how to get into something than actually repair it.
Its not just because youre not supposed to repair them. Its also about the looks. Customers dont want devices with visible screws or visible screw covers.
Thanks for making this video, I just got my year old power bank working again because of you. One of the battery connections was bad on mine. It looks to be spot wielded from the factory. I repaired mine with an extremely questionable soldering job. Thanks again.
Well done 👍I'm glad you got it working again. It's one of the reasons why I make videos to help people try and repair their items 🙂
Little anecdote for you- I was futzing around with a similar unit. Got it open, and while poking around at its innards I managed to create a short. The unit started to smoke, so I jumped up, grabbed it, and took it out quickly and left it on the concrete patio. It then caught fire, and gave a good show like a firework. I wasn't going to hit it with water. So, a lesson well learned that time.
Glad everything worked out ok for you. I usually try to see what state the cells are in first, fully charged are a lot more energetic.
I call this MFD...manufactured for disposal. Clear that this was made to be thrown away. Also clear designers knew drops would cause damage to inductor...thus the goo, instead of a different design that would actually prevent inductor from breaking away. Thanks for showing they can be fixed. And in particular...how the case is held together.
Thanks 👍yes MFD 😂😂
Honestly one of the best repair jobs i’ve seen especially with your explanation of the process in a detailed manner, i bought this same unit two weeks ago and i’m facing the same issue, i always wondered what would be the cause for it, already contacted anker support and hopefully they’ll send in a replacement, in case i get to keep the old unit, I’ll probably use your video for reference and repair it. Thanks mate.
Thanks for your feedback👍 the hardest part is getting it open!
Had a power bank have the same problem.
It rattled when I got it and it was an inductor just loose in the case, soldered it back on and it works fine.
Nice, sounds like a common issue then. This is only the 2nd power bank I've ever looked at.
I think the micro controller handles the differnt voltages and current for which ever device you a using. Examle fast charge for phone's etc. I also think it also controls the trickle charge for a completely dead battery then changes it to normal, then stops it.
Could well be. Thanks for that 👍
oh right QC 3.0 then as it has a Type-A plug on the charger side and still is able to handshake for 9V (PD only works over USB-C to C if i'm right)
I dislike all those manufacturers making opening their product for repair a destructive operation :(
Agree, it definitely seems like they don't want people in there.
@@BuyitFixit I agree too. They don't like people or repairmen in there. A couple of screws don't hurt anyone.
But think of the extra cost...😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit NO screws look SO ugly :D
Rubber bungs / caps 🙂
Nice easy fix, once you got in to it. What a pain to open up! I have replaced a few cells in power banks but never any luck on the electronics side when they fail. Never a lose inductor or connector. I think the one chip is the BMS for the cell and the MCU controls the PD levels of output. Since that one controller didn't have any data lines connected, just the positive and negative connections. So no way to interrogate a charge level without the data lines. But, that one schematic you showed could have just been one option too, not sure if other options.
Thanks, yes there was other options on the main chip in the PDF and there was pins on the chip that match the rest of them on the USB C called CC1 CC2 DMC DPC but I didn't look into it too much with it being written in Chinese. A few people suggested Google lens so might have another look 👍
Impressive fix, years of use now.
Thanks 🙂👍
Excellent video. I've always found Anker products very well engineered especially their high quality charging Leads & power banks. The leads are Much better than the cheap ones provided with most phones.
Thanks Alun, interesting to know if I need a replacement lead 👍
I used a heat gun to soften the deformed plastic edges and then passed the screwdriver shaft over for smoothing. Moderate heat also helps to prise those double sided plastic clips open!
They are a pain!
Yes definitely a pain 😂😂Thanks for the tip 👍
Great little fix, always wondered what the reason for the white stuff was and now I know, fun and educational what more can you ask for 😊 you could always ask the missus to knit a little pouch for it 😁
Thanks Morten, it already came with a little pouch 🙂
another lucky little device with loose ...components ...lucky fix this one ..!
I must have some Irish in me 😂Luck of the Irish as they say..
Brilliant fix Mick nicely done thanks mate 😊
Thanks Cucumber Man👍👍
Great fix once again! have you ever tried using your hot air station to warm up the warped plastic with practice screwdriver method you used can get decent results.
Great idea, now why didn't I think of that 🤔👍
I have an Anker power bank that didn't work too well after a year and a bit, so I took it appart (same problem getting the case appart ) it has four round cells so I ordered four from a on line vape store, when dismantling the pack, one had not been connected so it was operating on three, it has lasted a lot longer since.
Nice 👍yes it would only have been running at 75% capacity with 3 cells.
Ahh what a simple yet satisfying fix! Love it! :) Anker stuff is some of the best!
Thanks 👍I recognise the name from the MMV shout outs 🙂
@@BuyitFixit haha! Yes! It’s not a common name, hard to be incognito! Found you channel when I was researching a fix video of my own, been making my way through your back catalogue since! 👍🏼
@@kiphakes Thanks 👍🙂
Great repair as always, thanks Mick 😀
Thanks Mike 👍
Great job! You might already know this but for translating chinese text especially from paper or items Google Lens is a good tool.
Yes, a couple of people mentioned it. I had totally forgotten about that, as normally copy and paste into Google translate. I'll have to remember that, and thanks for letting me know 🙂👍
I have found quite a few power banks in the student scavenging every June. I got an old Anker one this year that looks like it has 4 18650s in it. It's about that size. I got one like your Anker in the battery recycling bin an Aldi last week, similar battery had swelled, dislodging the solar panel that was on it. So I guess they threw it out. It's a neat little panel, though how long it would take to charge from the panel is anyone's guess.
Hey bootsowen 🙂 yeah I guess it would take quite a while to charge with a little solar panel.
Its alive 😳🥳🙏🏽
Nice repair vid.
Thank you🙂
My brother just recently gifted me one of these for emergencies. Part of me understands why they don't want people messing around inside of these. It's a lot of juice and if you puncture the pouch cell things could get nasty, at the same time I wish it wasn't intended to be so disposable, especially if it seems to have a known weakness in that part breaking.
Both are good points 👍
I use a pocketknife blade to break into those things - the screwdriver leaves more jagged scars! But well done on the successful repair!
Thanks Dave, knowing my luck if I used a pocket knife the scars would be on my fingers 😂😂😂
Great Fix! either way it will be in a case so no one will see the bent edges. I alway keep it with a short 20cm cable for travel
Good idea 👍🙂
Great stroke of luck with the inductor, nice work 👍
Thanks 👍
As someone who has seen the inside of a fair few powerbanks, what one would you recommend? Got the same issue, Anker 26800PD stopped taking charge, seems to be faulty usbc port
Hi Alex, I'm not too sure on that one. I've seen inside a few but they are all pretty much just a battery with a control board. You could always make your own (which would be more serviceable) as you can buy power bank boards on Aliexpress for around £2 or so. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005649223878.html then hook up some 18650's in parallel (you can get 18650 holders too)
Very interesting video, I have this exact same power bank I bought years ago on Amazon, when I plug it into a usb to charge the lights flash but it doesn't actually take any charge, I have to keep unplugging it and reconnecting it for ages, eventually it does start charging, I wonder if the same component solder is fractured and needs reflowing?
It could be, or it might possibly be a bad connection on the USB C port or damaged USB C port. That's what I thought would be the issue with this one before I opened it.
Another nice little fix Mick, well done. A nice little Power Bank is quite handy to have available. I use mine a lot for powering little electronics projects I'm working on like Arduino based stuff for example. They're great for testing before giving the project it's own proper power supply. The only downside is that sometimes they auto power off because I'm not drawing enough current, but still a handy thing to have on the work bench for sure.
Thanks Marc, yes I'm sure it will come in handy 👍
Where is that you started in trying to find the data sheet for the charger. I'm looking for the data sheet for my anker a1260. The usb port-a output port broke and I am having no luck finding the 12mm female usb-a 4 pin 4 leg port that is used.
You'll not find a datasheet for the actual charger, but you can usually find them for the chips and other components used inside.
@@BuyitFixit Oh ok I see. I'm assuming that it was a proprietary usb A port that they used back when i purchased it in 2017 because all of the teardown videos that I've seen reappear to use a different port. I will continue my search to see if there is a suitable replacement that fit my purposes. Thank you
Great video! Where can I find the blue mat that he’s working on?
If you check my last few videos, I've put links in the video description of most of the tools I use including the blue mat 👍
Excellent job on this fix.
Thanks! J S
What is the milky goo?
Years ago when i used to fix VCRs Panasonic used to out a conductive goo on the power supply area. After it dried out and got hot (usually a couple of years) it would short out the piwer supply. Planned obsolescence.
I'm not sure, I think it's silicone stuff. I did come across some conductive glue on the JVC HiFi with valves in it that I looked at in a video a while back 👍
I think that's quite common EEV blog made a video of a pair of studio monitors that the glue went conductive and they were only produced a few years ago. It will probably keep happening in future with companies trying to save a few bucks and purchasing the cheapest glue they can find.
Just had the exact same problem with the exact power bank. Anker sent me a new one under warranty. Now I just need to do this repair and I'll have a spare one 😂
The most difficult part is getting into it👍
@@BuyitFixit I will try. I'll probably look like a pig trying to eat a watermelon but eventually I'll get it 😂
😂😂😂👍
Google lens on your phone does a pretty good job with chinese translation. Some good strung suction cups or pullers stuck on with VHB will get you in that type of case but you need to know its that type of case to begin with, maybe next time 😊
Some good suggestions there mate. Thanks for that 👍🙂
Nicely done Mick, it is a shame they are so hard to get into. Perfect for testing 5v items in the future on your videos though 👍
Thanks Vince 🙂Yes nightmare to get into. I'm pretty sure done on purpose. How did you get on with your ender 3? I bought a faulty ender 5 pro, was going to do a video on it but it had the old 8 bit board in it, so just ordered a 32 bit one so it would have been a fairly boring video I thought so didn't bother. Had a nightmare with firmware though, as the manufacturer's version is about 2 years out of date and printed backwards. Ended up having to compile my own from the latest Marlin. All working fine now though and busy printing cosplay stuff for my daughter 😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit 😂 Well I still haven't even unboxed it!! I need to firstly find a place to put it (lack of room and also i need to think about noise) and I just seem to be so busy filming, editing. Also truth be told the RR car takes up a ridiculous amount of time, it all leaves very little time to learn this new skill.
I'm sure when I start I won't look back, I just need an extra 4 hours a day and my life would be sorted. Have you found TH-cam has taken over your life yet?
Funny you should say that. I seem to find it hard to even do 1 a week these days I've got about 3 or 4 items in various stages of diagnosis and repair and awaiting parts or trying to find datasheets, editing etc I know exactly what you mean. I need to try and get a few videos ahead as I'm usually finishing editing on the same day of releasing 😂😂😂 perhaps I just need to pull my finger out a bit 🤔🤷♂️
@@BuyitFixit😂 Glad it isn't just me then!!!
I also forgot the searching for items in Ebay and replying to comments but you already know about all of that too 😂😂😂
Heya,nice to see this repair. I only wounder why this coil was lose?
Thanks👍Probably dropped, and silver solder is rather brittle.
Hi, interesting video 👍. Do you think the goo was purely for securing the inductor? There seemed to be similar/same goo around a capacitor as well. I suppose product testing may have found a propensity for those components to break free when the bank is dropped. I can’t imagine it would have been applied unless there was a known issue, companies don’t tend to go to additional expense unnecessarily. Is there a way to test the inductor before resoldering it to the board?
Now you have opened it do you think you have a better method if you were to have to open another bank?
Thanks 👍Yes I think the glue is purely for mechanical strength. I've seen similar on some other devices especially with larger components. I think it might be possible to hot glue a handle or something to the lid, or perhaps a suction cup and try to pull the lid off, but I'm not convinced.
the blinking of the LED means it is in tricklecharge mode...Had same problem, works now.
Inductor is for stepping up voltage...(USB C, remember)
Or for stepping down, remember it was charging a 3.7v cell from 9.19v on my USB meter.
Nice diagnosis and fix, Mick. It does look Ike it’s time to replace your tweezers though.
Thanks 👍Naa I'm sure they'll just bend back into place 😂😂😂
So what is the purpose of the white goo? Maybe to stop it rattling when it falls off :)
😂😂😂😂
14:48 - I guess that IC is used for the USB charging negotiation, otherwise you would only see 5v @ 500mA
I had thought that, but the other power bank chip supports PD1 PD2 Lightning, and fast charging too. There's a few schematic in that PDF showing different configurations.
I've got one I've been on and off trying to get open for a week or two now. Spent hours. All I've done is scratch up the plastic. I think it's Dremel time.
😂😂😂😂👍
Great job my friend.👍👍
Thank you 👍
Very likely poor soldering flow due to the large thermal mass of the inductor, if they never dialed this in or tested for it with vibration/shock, it means they might all suffer from a very weak and 'dry' solder joint in this area. I've reflowed many components, and inductors like this with high weight density, definitely take some work to do right, more-so than many other components.
Yes, sounds very likely, also I think unleaded soldering is a lot more brittle than leaded. Thanks for commenting 👍
9:12 It is obvious that the manufacturer knows about this problem or else they haven't put that goo there.
Unfortunately you are doing the same mistake. By putting solder on both sides it will add stress to the solder tracks and the solder.
Add solder to one side, solder it and then add solder to the other side when the component lies flat against the surface.
Although one slight difference is I'm using leaded solder which seems to be less brittle than the unleaded.
Good job like always saving another thing from ending in a landfill
Thanks Jose 👍
And now they are making Anker PowerCore III Elite that is impossible to re pair at all. Just got mine from the service, they failed even to disassemble it. Everything is glued inside.
That sucks! especially from a repairability and environmental point of view!
I may have some suggestions. What went wrong with it?
I have a Lidl branded Tronic TDP 10000, and is quite similar to this but would output fine, mine would not charge after a few cycles. May need to charge it externally to see if the cell is bad, bit think the charging regulator forgot how and at what rate.
Hi, I got one that just broke, could you show some details on how to open to get it apart without damaging too much?. Thank you!.
It's literally use a metal spudger and screwdriver down the sides of the case. You will cause damage as it's the only way to get it apart.
@@BuyitFixit got it, thank you!
There is a PowerCore 20000 and a PowerCore 20000 PD. Perhaps the PD version has an extra microcontroller it uses to communicate with devices to negotiate how much power it sends? Even if this is not the PD version, it could still have the extra microcontroller inside but just not enabled or something.
I can't remember if this one had PD, but I've recently repaired a Belkin one that has PD and wireless charging. Video soon 👍
Great fix. A suggestion is to use a plastic or ceramic tool to remove glutinous material (in a powered device). A spark, flash, bang, wallop etc would be amusing, but may shorten the video somewhat.
Thanks Ralph, it could also lengthen the video too.. like if I had to then replace the blown chip 😂😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit ...with the one remaining eye. :D
😂😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit True, especially if you took out the micro and had to reprogram a replacement, in Chinese. You may need four or more eyes for that one.
@@ralphj4012 😂😂😂
5:10 well that sound 😅 I actually thought that the battery is about to explode
😂😂😂😂
By the looks of the thickness of that battery cell, I highly doubt if this is a 20000mAh power bank. There are just two 5000mah cells there and so it's a 10000 mah. And don't mind, but buying a 10kmah for parts powerbank for $6 is foolish. Because those cells in there are generic chinese factory made that costs just under $5 new. Well if you have some environmental or any other reasons to repair it that's okay. Love your videos though. Great content as ever 👍👍
Interesting, I might see if I can measure the capacity at some point, and thanks for your kind comment 👍
Nice fix.
Thanks John 👍
May I ask where you typically purchase the items to repair from?
Just on Ebay, or occasionally my wife sees something on Facebook that she'd like that's also broken 🙂
Did you secure the coil again?
One micro controller is for the charging controller and the other handles the usb c handshakes.
Makes sense 👍
Hope you put some hot snot around that inductor . Nice easy fix , their products have a good reputation but as you said it was probably dropped
Plenty solder on it, and if it breaks again...I should be able to fix it (althoughit it was a bit of a **** to get into). Thanks for the suggestion👍
@@BuyitFixit most powerbanks are built not to be opened unfortunately, they could put a screw on lid with a gasket but it's probably down to ease of build and cost along with h@s .
That place you mentioned before ( Brewery mine ) sounds interesting
@@UserUser-ww2nj Yes, brewery shaft. Theres a video on TH-cam of the pelton turbine and machine house at the bottom. It's something stupid like 100 meters straight down...
@@BuyitFixit Pelton turbine is the one with the cups I think .I did briefly look into it and saw a video of a guy who abseiled down 80 meters. The going down is o.k but coming up dammed hard work 🤣
🇺🇦🌻🌻🌻
I think they used to have a winch to take people up and down, but not sure if they do that anymore.
I would buy one of thoses now i've seen inside. Looked like a good quality build to me....cheers.
hi my friend. didn't 'expect' to find you here :)
Hi Maico ! yeah I get about !@@maicod
Thanks AndyMouse 👍
@@andymousewe know how to find interesting electronics youtubers :)
Anker make great power banks, they do take a while to charge fully though.
Yes, it does seem fairly good quality, and it did take a fair time to charge👍
Looks like it wasn't soldered properly, the inductor being the highest thermal mass component with wide tracks I would guess that the reflow profile wasn't adjusted properly for that part. With a good rework and the extra help of leaded solder it shouldn't come out again.
Yes, I had been thinking was it the use of non leaded solder, as I think it's more brittle than leaded. I had a similar thing in the last video with the induction cooker.
Powerful suction cup could work. Theorically.
Yes, I did think that too, once I knew how it worked. Even perhaps hot gluing something to the top of the case and then use IPA to release it. I'll have to keep a look out for a decent suction cup 👍
So it's the microtroller for the charging of the battery from the phone charger going to the charge controller to monitor the batteries voltage.But apparently it fasts out and you gotta put the new one in.
How did toy clean up the silicone almost completely off camera? Is it ok that they foil hangs over the board loosely and maybe shorts something? EU lawmakers need to move faster to force such devices to be openable.
Just some IPA and a toothbrush seemed to remove the silicone nicely 🙂
Not glued together, sealed with RF energy. Radio Frequency melts the plastic and so it's essentially one solid piece of plastic now.
I’ve got the same exact powerbank and it charges fine on 5v USB A, but does not charge on power delivery. Any ideas?
Great video again 👏👏👏
Thanks 🙂👍
سلام دوست عزیز بنده این پاورنک رو دارم مشکل این است که خود پاور بانک شارژ نمیشود مشکل از کجا میتواند باشد؟
What microscope do you have?
I've got two. I did a video on the adonstar and the one I normally use a few videos back. My main one is a trinocular on a boom arm, with a 48mp camera which has hdmi and records to SD. The only problem I have with it is that even on minimum zoom and fitted with a .5x lens it's still a bit zoomed in too much for TH-cam videos.
I've run those data sheets through GOOGLE TRANSLATE on my phone using the camera to get a rough idea
I did try copy and paste some bits here and there into Google translate to get a rough idea too 🙂👍
Google lens on your phone will work fine with all the info, that's what I use
Thanks 🙂👍
Keep waiting for you to say ‘ one moment please’ 😂😂
😂😂😂Guess you watch Big Clive too 🙂
Microcontroller handles microphone, recording, storage, and data transmission.
😂😂😂Spy power bank 👍
Heh I see others are seeing your hacking work now. Well done
Yeah lol.
I took my husbands apart and I didn’t quite have the same you had when I open his the right spot weld is undone and the taps more less free just pushed back I put it back down and it has lights flashing again but just continues to flash a single on coasionally I can get it to do 1-4 in repeat 1 2 3 4 and other tokens it just flashes 1 moving around the cord and plugging it up seems to sometimes get it to initate a charge and some times it doesn’t also The tab weather pressing on it or lifting it and pressing back down he also changed both to the same things
Use the translate app one your phone for those schematics.
Yes, a few people suggested google lens, I had completely forgotten about it. I have use it a couple of times since making the video 👍
and all broken Anker power banks on ebay went up by 50% ;-)
😂😂😂😂
Don't you just love those simple fixes? 🙂 Nice repair.
Removing the annoying lid of the casing was the worst part for you - yet another example of a company that doesn't want (or can't be bothered) to make their products repairable and instead most faulty units end up as landfill. All countries need to pass and and rigorously enforce laws to ensure that all electronics and other devices (mechanical and otherwise) are repairable for those with the right skills, but of course it'll never happen because too many governments and politicians are in the back pockets of the large corporations as well as indulging in the usual political and trade machinations with China, etc.
Thanks 🙂 yes not very serviceable was it...
Even with such Legislation, the _vast_ majority of consumers lack the skills, tools, and motivation to repair things themselves.
Repair is only a viable option when the cost is significantly less than replacement, and no professional can work in such an environment.
A co-worker was recently in a major car accident. His vehicle suffered massive damage, including a bent frame, to the point that repairs would cost more than the value of the vehicle. He has the "right" to repair it, but it makes no economic sense to do so.
Awesome ✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻
Thanks 👍
Lead free solder is to blame for so many items ending as eWaste
I had been thinking the exact same thing. Seems.a similar issue to then induction cooker I recently did a video on too.
Nice one Mick. Whoever designed that case wasn't thinking about the Right to Repair Directive were they? 🙄
Cheers Colin 👍
Great work.
Thanks 👍
Hi, I have a Lenovo ideapad S145, it turns on, the on/off lights up solid blue, the fan runs for a while and the ssd hdd gets hot but that's it, nothing else happens, no screen, nothing, I've tried all the suggested tests, resets, battery tests (ok), charger tests (ok) on youtube but nothing changes. Any suggestions?
Hmmm I've not worked on one but the fact the ssd gets hot doesn't seem right. Have you tried removing the ssd? I usually start by trying to remove stuff that's no essential (if possible) you should still get a bios screen or something with the ssd and wifi (if removable) removed for instance. Next thing can you remove any ram etc
@@BuyitFixit Thanks for the reply, yes I tried removing the ssd and wifi and still nothing.
In that case sounds like a problem on the main board, I'd perhaps check mosfets for shorts with a test meter, or if you had a thermal camera that may help pinpoint the problem.
@@BuyitFixit Thanks again, I don't have a thermal camera, with the ssd and wifi cards removed and by feeling with my lip nothing is getting even slightly warm except the cpu which gets warm then the fan comes on and it remains stable but nothing seems to do anything, no caps or number lock lights, just the on/off lights and the on light at the side. I just tried the usb ports and they all charge my phone.
Hard to say. Are there any surface mount fuses or links like zero ohm resistors on the board. I'd be checking those, and I'd check for shorted mosfets. It could be anything from corrupt firmware to a failed IC or a bad connection under an IC. Hard to say without testing things.
What is the model of this tester ?
I'm not sure of the model, I bought it from AliExpress this is the one I bought here: www.aliexpress.com/item/32854809579.html
Different model but similar case, just a bit chunkier(27k mAh). Also just stopped taking a charge one day, just heats up.
Heating up doesn't sound good at all...
I bet this is the same issue I am having. Bought a brand new one that won't charge, but came fully charged and it worked fine until I went to charge it.
Could well be.
Is that why you can't get there?Might have been rubber did It's possible that that red or blue was to hold it , but apparently a brook loose
Thanks, nice fix.
Just use Google translate to read the Chinese data sheets.
Thanks👍, yes a few people have mentioned. I had totally forgotten about that 😂😂
love anker power banks and usb power supplys
Yes they seem well built 👍🙂
Bad solder joints, a few cold ones too. Cheap cheap etc
أدي شاحن انكر على الشحن السريع لا يشحن على الشحن البطئ يشحن ولكنه يطول في الشحن ماهي علته إذا تكرمت
Check that resistor there might be some registers out
Nice fix. Bloody awkward things to open they are.
Thanks and yes 😂😂😂 nightmare they are.
Man, i have three of those and they all have the same problem. They won't charge up. Of course I don't have the receipts so thats $120 that I'm out. The first one lasted a few months, the second a few weeks and the third one only lasted a few days. Frustrating.
I wrote anker and they asked for my receipt. Dammit, ive been a loyal customer but with these and the cords not lasting as long i may have to find a new supplier.
That sucks. Sorry to hear about your experience 😢
I have mine the output in not working but I can still charge it but don't know how to fix it.
It could be the same fault as this one. You would need to get it apart first, which is a bit of a job.
I also face same problem 😥. How can i fix it 😢😢
I fixed this one, the biggest problem is getting it open!
My theory
Assembler was told to ppt silicone on both sides but was lazy.
Silicone shrinks while curing and stresses solder joints instead of supporting them.
Amazon driver throws package at front porch, lazy.
Very plausible, could well be the case 👍
F'ng hell, great catch
Thanks 🙂👍