The circuit board is easy to make ,but you implementing the idea is brilliant . You are very sharp and I like the way how you implement simple ideas . You are brilliant.
this is one of the best videos out to get an understanding of the ender 3. this trouble has cost me a good bit through my journey, thank you good sir for posting what you do!!
HAHA - Just had 'heat-creep' over the weekend. As a total noob, I am still learning. No more turning off the printer till it has had time to cool. Thanks for the informative content.
Great idea! This would be handy for very long duration prints - I had heat creep happen on a print that was over 30 hours and fortunately finished but the last couple of layers were not as nice as I would have liked. Allowing the hot end to cool down before turning off the printer bites many novices - it's one of the things I always advise to folks starting out.
Have you considered using a comparator to light the LED once a threshold is met? It would be much easier to to distinguish from the off state rather than a gradual change. Also, what about using another thermistor that the printer could monitor with a firmware change? Great vid/prototype regardless!
This would be nice to add to my enclosed Ender 3s. I think I get heat creep with the door closed and this would help me validate that theory. Great idea Chuck.
Would love to see an option powered by the 5v rail for the fan. It would also have a supercap of some sort in it to keep the fan running should it be needed when the machine is shut off. Not sure if the power could be bled through a resistor or not, but then you have a detector and something to keep the fan spinning, should it not be dead for some reason. It is feature creep-y and lacking the knowledge on how to implement it, it may be harder than I expect, however it would be a nice touch!
I think a flashing led coupled with a buzzer would be a good solution and a smaller PCB with an enclosure and a deepset bezel for the LED so it is easily seen
Hey Chuck. From what I glimpsed, your circuit is based on a transistor (either BJT or FET) and a couple resistors working as a switch, with a large transient between the blocked and saturated states, hence the progressive switching of the LED. Did you consider using an OpAmp in a Schmitt trigger configuration? About the same number of components, but a sharper commutation
I use a 80mm old PC fan, I lower the voltage around 8V, it's silent and works perfect the last 3 years with my stock Ender 3 Pro, also use the Petsfang duct with a single 5015 blower fan for layer cooling.
I learned that the hard way. The heat creep clogged my hotend, the next time I went to print no filament would extrude. Now I always let my hotend cool to close to room temp before powering off the printer.
Just a suggestion, but using an LED with a clear lens instead of red, and printing the LED bracket with white instead of black, will make it much more obvious when the LED comes on - the whole thing should change from white to red, instead of just being "more red".
Wouldn't the bottom of the heat sink/heat break be more of a problem? As I mentioned in a comment in another video, when I take apart my hot end, I've found about maybe 10mm still in the bowden tube where it interfaces with the nozzle. I think that's what's causing stringing. Or maybe what I call stringing is to be expected with an Ender 3 v2 using eSun PLA+ filament at 205C nozzle temp. The sample cat with the sample filament did not string across the ears. Never printed the cat with the eSun though.
I just experience heat creep for the first itme in 4 years of printing, and you have happen to upload a video right before this happened to me, before I clicked on your video I was already thinking of ways to detect if heatsink is getting too hot or somehow detect if the fan is spinning or not.
very useful to know. i'll be letting my printer fully cooldown till the fan switches off from now on, as i have been in the habit of switching it off immediately after a print.
I am am going to attach a probe just above the heat break and control the speed of the fan depending on the readings. This way my fan will keep the heatsink below a threshold while being as silent as possible. I am running a more powerful and quieter fan than the one shipped with the printer originally
Great video CHEP, Hmmmm how about a second thermal couple connected to the main block. Then the cooling fan controlled by a circuit that uses the second thermal couple with the power coming from a separate PSU or supercap so the fan can continue to cool the heartbreak if the system gets turned off before the hotend is cooled to an acceptable level.
@@FilamentFriday I was thinking using a small alligator clip thru the vent opening on the right side beside the pinda probe and clip on to the cooling fins to attach the probe. It would be cooled by the fan blowing over it but that's kinda the point to see if the fan is not working
OMG why isn’t this standard practice for 3d printers? My fan was kind of loud a bit ago but then got quieter and now I’m having clogging issues. About 99.9% sure this is my issue.
Oh dude, I love your content Chuck but why would you jam a screwdriver into your fan versus just unplugging it? That one hurt my heart. I know it's brushless versus brush so you're not arcing brushes against the commutator but still.
Might implement it into a end stop circuit on the printers board, and if someone was savy enough they could script into the firmware to shut the nozzle off to prevent damage.
Great video although it gave me a Homer Simpson moment when I realised why I was having some problems on one of my printers when the prints were first starting DOH!. I have been switching off without letting it cool cos I rush all the time. I love that temp warning light, great idea.
Hello Chuck. I usually try to install the upgrades on your channel but some of the screws I need to remove on my ender 3 are rounded. Do you know any way to remove them?
Hi Chuck. Great idea. IMHO you could also make it with a comparator instead of a transistor so that you could calculate an edge temperature where the LED goes full-on or stays off. In fact, you could even connect a piezo buzzer to it as an acoustic warning.
Let's see how long it takes Geeetech to steal this! Wonderful work as always, Chuck!
Once again, another great idea and great explanation. Especially the cooling down tip, thanks. I wonder how long before this is ripped off!
I hope Chuck has enough patrons to be able to do what's obviously loves doing as a full-time job. He certainly deserves it.
Thanks.
The circuit board is easy to make ,but you implementing the idea is brilliant . You are very sharp and I like the way how you implement simple ideas . You are brilliant.
Thanks
this is one of the best videos out to get an understanding of the ender 3. this trouble has cost me a good bit through my journey, thank you good sir for posting what you do!!
Great idea. Appreciate showing us this and explaining the logic behind it. Also appreciated your insight on the Maker that money podcast today
Always appreciate your explanations and breakdown of 3D printing issues. Thanks for all you do for the community.
HAHA - Just had 'heat-creep' over the weekend. As a total noob, I am still learning. No more turning off the printer till it has had time to cool. Thanks for the informative content.
$20 says geeetech will release one ina month
Chuck your videos are the best
Thanks
Great observation that powering off means the heatsink can overheat.
Great idea! It gives a redundant thermal runaway warning as well.
Most printers have that enabled in firmware now.
Just brilliant, Chuck! Fantastic work! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great idea! This would be handy for very long duration prints - I had heat creep happen on a print that was over 30 hours and fortunately finished but the last couple of layers were not as nice as I would have liked. Allowing the hot end to cool down before turning off the printer bites many novices - it's one of the things I always advise to folks starting out.
Definitely something for Filament Friday!👍🤠
at Geeetech's headquarters *heavy breathing*. /// Thanks Chuck, that's a great tool.
Have you considered using a comparator to light the LED once a threshold is met? It would be much easier to to distinguish from the off state rather than a gradual change. Also, what about using another thermistor that the printer could monitor with a firmware change? Great vid/prototype regardless!
Quick videos, sharing valuable information. Thanks a lot! 🙂👍
That's really nice! I hope you want to make it open source. I live in the Netherlands, so it's kinda harder to get Filament Friday branded stuff.
We’re working on improving that.
This would be nice to add to my enclosed Ender 3s. I think I get heat creep with the door closed and this would help me validate that theory. Great idea Chuck.
Would love to see an option powered by the 5v rail for the fan. It would also have a supercap of some sort in it to keep the fan running should it be needed when the machine is shut off. Not sure if the power could be bled through a resistor or not, but then you have a detector and something to keep the fan spinning, should it not be dead for some reason.
It is feature creep-y and lacking the knowledge on how to implement it, it may be harder than I expect, however it would be a nice touch!
I think a flashing led coupled with a buzzer would be a good solution and a smaller PCB with an enclosure and a deepset bezel for the LED so it is easily seen
Thanks CHEP.
Very good video! Make you think twice before you turn off your printer
Hey Chuck.
From what I glimpsed, your circuit is based on a transistor (either BJT or FET) and a couple resistors working as a switch, with a large transient between the blocked and saturated states, hence the progressive switching of the LED.
Did you consider using an OpAmp in a Schmitt trigger configuration? About the same number of components, but a sharper commutation
3v coin cell limits options but I’m looking at a simple Micro solution.
can we get a ender 3 neo direct drive mod video?
Let's hope that no printer company *coughgeetechcough* steals the design and tries to sell it (again)
I suspect that's why Chuck is having second thoughts about releasing it.
I use a 80mm old PC fan, I lower the voltage around 8V, it's silent and works perfect the last 3 years with my stock Ender 3 Pro, also use the Petsfang duct with a single 5015 blower fan for layer cooling.
I learned that the hard way. The heat creep clogged my hotend, the next time I went to print no filament would extrude. Now I always let my hotend cool to close to room temp before powering off the printer.
Hello, are you willing to share the wiring diagram of the build?
Not at this time. Sorry.
@@FilamentFriday its ok I'll figure it out
Just a suggestion, but using an LED with a clear lens instead of red, and printing the LED bracket with white instead of black, will make it much more obvious when the LED comes on - the whole thing should change from white to red, instead of just being "more red".
Wouldn't the bottom of the heat sink/heat break be more of a problem?
As I mentioned in a comment in another video, when I take apart my hot end, I've found about maybe 10mm still in the bowden tube where it interfaces with the nozzle. I think that's what's causing stringing.
Or maybe what I call stringing is to be expected with an Ender 3 v2 using eSun PLA+ filament at 205C nozzle temp.
The sample cat with the sample filament did not string across the ears. Never printed the cat with the eSun though.
It’s a problem across the whole heat sink. I just choose to easily sense at the screw.
I just experience heat creep for the first itme in 4 years of printing, and you have happen to upload a video right before this happened to me, before I clicked on your video I was already thinking of ways to detect if heatsink is getting too hot or somehow detect if the fan is spinning or not.
Only a thought but could the firmware be tweaked to retract filament say 30mm at end of printing.
You could do that in end GCode of the slicer profile.
@@FilamentFriday Would you have to add the filament retract code to each print job manually, or can it be a cura function?
It’s in the machine profile in Cura so automatically added on every print.
Hi any updates? Can I buy this from you? Thanks a lot for your feedback in advance
very useful to know. i'll be letting my printer fully cooldown till the fan switches off from now on, as i have been in the habit of switching it off immediately after a print.
I am am going to attach a probe just above the heat break and control the speed of the fan depending on the readings. This way my fan will keep the heatsink below a threshold while being as silent as possible. I am running a more powerful and quieter fan than the one shipped with the printer originally
Sounds like a great idea.
That's exactly what happened to me and I've been scratching my head why??? Thanks!
Great video CHEP,
Hmmmm how about a second thermal couple connected to the main block. Then the cooling fan controlled by a circuit that uses the second thermal couple with the power coming from a separate PSU or supercap so the fan can continue to cool the heartbreak if the system gets turned off before the hotend is cooled to an acceptable level.
If you ever decide to release it, I would like to ask for permission to adapt it to the Prusa mk3 design please.
That might be tougher. I’ll look into it.
@@FilamentFriday I was thinking using a small alligator clip thru the vent opening on the right side beside the pinda probe and clip on to the cooling fins to attach the probe. It would be cooled by the fan blowing over it but that's kinda the point to see if the fan is not working
You shouldn’t need this on a Prusa. It uses a 3 wire hot end fan with a sensor that will tell you if it stops spinning.
@@Hairy_Phils_Lament you can disable that warning
Genius!
OMG why isn’t this standard practice for 3d printers? My fan was kind of loud a bit ago but then got quieter and now I’m having clogging issues. About 99.9% sure this is my issue.
Something I've noted: if your e-motor VREF is set way too high the drive gear can also melt the filament in the extruder.
Oh dude, I love your content Chuck but why would you jam a screwdriver into your fan versus just unplugging it? That one hurt my heart. I know it's brushless versus brush so you're not arcing brushes against the commutator but still.
Good point.
Might implement it into a end stop circuit on the printers board, and if someone was savy enough they could script into the firmware to shut the nozzle off to prevent damage.
Definitely an option.
Great research!
What I tend to do is let my hot end cool down to 40c then the printer automatically shuts off. Octoprint is a huge component for printer care!
Great video although it gave me a Homer Simpson moment when I realised why I was having some problems on one of my printers when the prints were first starting DOH!. I have been switching off without letting it cool cos I rush all the time. I love that temp warning light, great idea.
Sorry to hear Chinese company stole your bed levelver
it's what they do. intellectual property is just a suggestion to them
If you made it a bit smaller, and black to match the shroud, I'd buy it!
It's a prototype right now though
For that I'd use a simple bimetal switch to turn on a secondary hotend fan
I would buy one for each printer
Coming soon to the newest Geeethief printer
If you connect the fan also with this system !
It stops spinning as soon the printer is cool enough 😃
That's also a problem solved. 🤗
Yep, definitely an option I’m looking at.
@@FilamentFriday looking forward 😀
Chep how are you, and doing with this print. Is it already for sale 🤔
No. We are still working on options.
Actually it's a brilliant idea. I had 2 overheating cloggs, not caused by a broken fan but caused by wrong settings. This would have helped.
Hello Chuck. I usually try to install the upgrades on your channel but some of the screws I need to remove on my ender 3 are rounded. Do you know any way to remove them?
Depends on the screw type. Sometime I drill it out enough to jam a hex bit in it.
I'm trying to remove the Allen hex screws that are on the hotend
Hi Chuck. Great idea.
IMHO you could also make it with a comparator instead of a transistor so that you could calculate an edge temperature where the LED goes full-on or stays off.
In fact, you could even connect a piezo buzzer to it as an acoustic warning.
Yes. Good ideas.
Coming to Geetech in 2023. lol
I'd buy one from you
don't let geeetech see that.
WHat a great Idea!
hi geetech
How much for you to make one for me? And ship to Texas
is it better to have your printer in a cool room
Depends on the filament your using.
I actually have a portable heater in my room and turn it on when running ASA.
Geotechnical incomming.
Imagine printing pla that get soft it only 50 degrees that would be pretty cringe
Be careful with the Chinese who copy even the mother who gave birth to them
Quick videos, sharing valuable information. Thanks a lot! 🙂👍