I had no issues with the Dorman line kit. The coolant lines into/out of the back of the turbo are quick connects for ease of installation. Install the female quick connects into the turbo but don’t insert the male end of the banjo bolt line yet. You can insert the line with the hose end because it’s easy to connect the hose/clamp later. Install the line with banjo bolt on the block while the turbo is off and it’s easy to start the threads without losing the seals. You can leave bolt loose and torque the seal later if needed. As you are hanging the turbo/manifold on the studs you can insert the male end of the line into the female quick connect. Pressure test the cooling system with air if you want to insure you have good seals before assembling anything else. The quick connects use a special disconnect tool if you need to disassemble. Long reach torx bit sockets help with the manifold stud nuts. Torx head fits within the diameter of the nut, so it avoids issues with some hex sockets that won’t fit around the outside circumference of the nuts in the tight spaces near the manifold.
My wife’s 2014 with 120k miles, has gone through 3 turbos and it just cracked a piston in cylinder 3. In the process of tearing the engine down to see if the block is good and if it is I’ll put new pistons in it. I’ve changed the oil every 3k miles so it’s not neglected, weve owned it since new
I bought that Dorman line kit for my son's turbo replacement job I did. I didn't have an issue with the coolant lines leaking. I pushed them in prior to connecting them to the turbo. I did have an issue with the oil return line. The seal failed. I didn't install the Dorman return tube because it wouldn't fit... Too much tweaking involved.
I have so so many issues out of this exact car it’s crazy. I’m about to have to replace my turbo charger. I’m not sure if it’s my turbo squeeling when accelerating or my serp belt (belt has been replaced like 5 times)😢. Have replaced almost every pulley on the car. Water pump. Valve cover gasket (because of the evap system) thermostats like multiple times already in less than 3 years. Im leaking oil in multiple places as well including the 2 cam position sensors, and from one of the bolts on the valve cover gasket. It just never seems to stop. I just literally took it to the shop and had stuff fixed on it that was throwing a code, got it back the next day got another code for something else. Took it back to shop got stuff for that code fixed and then once again the next day check engine code comes back on again for engine underboost. Car has hardly no acceleration and is just super slow now. Has had a recent tune up. As well. Vacuum lines replaced. I’m just so done with this car😂 ive put more money into fixing this car than what it is even worth
Would it be worth upgrading the plastic valve cover to an aluminum cover instead? I would like to try and get at least another 40-50k miles out of this car for sure already at 167k.
@@kylemooney1256 these things are trouble for sure, the one way valve in the intake blows out and sends boost directly into the crankcase. It will blow air out the little vent in the valve cover causing a whistling sound. It will also blow air out the dipstick when you pull it out when running.
That oil return tube made out of metal is a super pain in the ass. I just returned the metal one and picked up one that was plastic like the oem only took 5second to install that one
My wife’s 2014 has gone through 3 turbos, and it just cracked the piston in cylinder 3. Currently in the process of tearing the engine down to inspect the block and possibly put new pistons in it
I thought those lines aren’t push connect? Don’t you screw them on a few turns first WITH the turbo out of car. Then tighten the bolt. Am I thinking of the wrong line?
@@TheBearGrylz my grandson was able to get his arm in there, but it was tough. We took the turbo off the first time the line leaked, when that didn’t fix it, we replaced with a new line, and left the turbo in place, but it was tough to reach. He worked under the car while I guided the banjo bolt into the block from the top. It helped to have an extra set of hands.
@@workingwithLarryMullins Icic. Thank you for the help! I got mine. It was not fun. I left turbo in and got a knuckle drive in there blindly. Got lucky. It’s fixed! I commend you for helping. Thanks for your video
I had no issues with the Dorman line kit. The coolant lines into/out of the back of the turbo are quick connects for ease of installation. Install the female quick connects into the turbo but don’t insert the male end of the banjo bolt line yet. You can insert the line with the hose end because it’s easy to connect the hose/clamp later. Install the line with banjo bolt on the block while the turbo is off and it’s easy to start the threads without losing the seals. You can leave bolt loose and torque the seal later if needed. As you are hanging the turbo/manifold on the studs you can insert the male end of the line into the female quick connect. Pressure test the cooling system with air if you want to insure you have good seals before assembling anything else. The quick connects use a special disconnect tool if you need to disassemble. Long reach torx bit sockets help with the manifold stud nuts. Torx head fits within the diameter of the nut, so it avoids issues with some hex sockets that won’t fit around the outside circumference of the nuts in the tight spaces near the manifold.
Thanks for the info, hopefully it will help others watching this, hopefully won’t have to do another one for a while! lol!
My wife’s 2014 with 120k miles, has gone through 3 turbos and it just cracked a piston in cylinder 3. In the process of tearing the engine down to see if the block is good and if it is I’ll put new pistons in it. I’ve changed the oil every 3k miles so it’s not neglected, weve owned it since new
Any luck brother?
I bought that Dorman line kit for my son's turbo replacement job I did. I didn't have an issue with the coolant lines leaking. I pushed them in prior to connecting them to the turbo. I did have an issue with the oil return line. The seal failed. I didn't install the Dorman return tube because it wouldn't fit... Too much tweaking involved.
I have so so many issues out of this exact car it’s crazy. I’m about to have to replace my turbo charger. I’m not sure if it’s my turbo squeeling when accelerating or my serp belt (belt has been replaced like 5 times)😢. Have replaced almost every pulley on the car. Water pump. Valve cover gasket (because of the evap system) thermostats like multiple times already in less than 3 years. Im leaking oil in multiple places as well including the 2 cam position sensors, and from one of the bolts on the valve cover gasket. It just never seems to stop. I just literally took it to the shop and had stuff fixed on it that was throwing a code, got it back the next day got another code for something else. Took it back to shop got stuff for that code fixed and then once again the next day check engine code comes back on again for engine underboost. Car has hardly no acceleration and is just super slow now. Has had a recent tune up. As well. Vacuum lines replaced. I’m just so done with this car😂 ive put more money into fixing this car than what it is even worth
Would it be worth upgrading the plastic valve cover to an aluminum cover instead? I would like to try and get at least another 40-50k miles out of this car for sure already at 167k.
@@kylemooney1256 these things are trouble for sure, the one way valve in the intake blows out and sends boost directly into the crankcase. It will blow air out the little vent in the valve cover causing a whistling sound. It will also blow air out the dipstick when you pull it out when running.
That oil return tube made out of metal is a super pain in the ass. I just returned the metal one and picked up one that was plastic like the oem only took 5second to install that one
My wife’s 2014 has gone through 3 turbos, and it just cracked the piston in cylinder 3. Currently in the process of tearing the engine down to inspect the block and possibly put new pistons in it
You didn't get ripped off that's how they are from doorman I believe when you tighten the line it expands and that locks it in place
Great job
I thought those lines aren’t push connect? Don’t you screw them on a few turns first WITH the turbo out of car. Then tighten the bolt. Am I thinking of the wrong line?
We tried it different ways, the first line was defective. Think it was a return someone brought back. The next line worked fine.
@@workingwithLarryMullins just happened to me. New turbo in. Great. Blew a line. Crap!! So upset
Did you have to remove turbo and everything to redo the line?
@@TheBearGrylz my grandson was able to get his arm in there, but it was tough. We took the turbo off the first time the line leaked, when that didn’t fix it, we replaced with a new line, and left the turbo in place, but it was tough to reach. He worked under the car while I guided the banjo bolt into the block from the top. It helped to have an extra set of hands.
@@workingwithLarryMullins Icic. Thank you for the help! I got mine. It was not fun. I left turbo in and got a knuckle drive in there blindly. Got lucky. It’s fixed! I commend you for helping. Thanks for your video
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