After I called out how important it was in the fist video, I can't believe I forget to install it. But you got to own it at that point 😂 Thanks for checking out the video! ~Ryan
This is the best video on TH-cam for removal and installation the turbo on a 1.4L Chevy Cruze, you guys get a rating of 12 out of 10. One step u didn't mention was prelube the turbo bearings before installing the feed tube line. Keep your videos similar to this n your channel will grow, I subscribed and liked your videos.
I used a dental pick to get that broken piece out. These encores are made like garbage. Never had so many problems. Great video though best video of a repair i have seen in a long time
I have a 16 Trax. Im getting ready to do my turbo. This is the best video I've seen yet. I've watched several. Glad i read through the comments, too. Alot of useful information there too. Also i live in South Florida, so hardly any corrosion. I just passed 100k miles when i got the p0299. I dont have a lift,so hopefully it goes well. Saving me about $1500 by doing it myself. I'm confident after watching you guys.
I had to replace the 9 o-rings for the oil cooler on the non turbo engine the other day. I couldn't stop laughing at the ridicoulusness lol! Thanks guys!
1 question and 1 comment. I did one of these turbos on a cruz a few weeks ago. The turbo came with a syringe in the box and the instructions said to prime the turbo bearings by forcing oil into the oil inlet after your installed the drain line but before you install the pressure line. Its that the case for all the turbo replacements for this engine or was that only on the one I had and is it necessary to do? On the clamp that attaches the cat to the turbo once you tighten the bolt down take a rubber mallet or dead blow and lightly tap the clam and torque it again. Repeat process again until the torque has stabilized. That will make sure that seal it nice and tight.
Hey Gary, Was your Turbo OEM or aftermarket? I believe ours was pre-oiled, the plugs where full of oil and had no instructions to pre-oil. I don’t see how it could ever hurt to do that process though. Also good tip! Thanks for reaching out ! ~Ryan
this is a common issue nowadays. not just on this car but it seems like most recent cars have a low quality turbo that breaks easy. Unfortunately some of them are not as easy as this one to remove and install.
the problem when it comes to turbos is that changing the oil on time and using the correct oil is imperitive and most car owners don't sevice their cars on time, because they don't realise the importance with these new cars.
@@carlodonnell146 That is also true, some people are not taught how to take care of their car with turbo :). When i finish the infiniti Q50 i am working on now, i will post it here in youtube for all to see what i found out. And sadly, the only fix is to replace them.
This by far the best video for removal and installation of a turbo on a 1.4L chevy cruze. One thing u forgot was to prelude the bearings before u installed the lube feed tube. But u got a 12 out of 10 and subscribed to your channel with thumbs up, keep your videos like this one and it will grow. Cheers.
The coolant line with the 17mm banjo bolt goes on the block first (at least start it, you can torque it later), before you make the connection at the quick connect on the turbo. You then insert the line in the quick connect as you’re hanging the turbo/manifold on the studs. Access to insert is straightforward by reaching up from below/behind the turbo through the area where the cat would be. Utilizing the quick connect makes install easy… allows you to start the banjo bolt by hand without it flopping around or losing a seal.
Really GREAT JOB RYAN! Thanks to Mike for the camera operation. Lotta work guys! I think my son-in-law has this setup in his Chevy. I know he was told the turbo was bad, I think it had oil leaks also. I'll know in a couple days, as the dealer is doing the repairs. Glad it's not me ! !
Great video - Thank you. Bought a friends Chevy Sonic that needed a new turbo. This video was great. The sonic was far more cramped but workable. I didnt remove the cat, but if I had to do it again I may have. Living in MI with 100K+ miles the bolts were really rusted on the exhaust and I knew I was replacing the oil return line so I just yanked it(the turbo) off. My return also broke off in the block after releasing the clip which was a PITA to fix, but was doable. I installed the oil line onto the new turbo before install and was very careful with all of the lines fitting the turbo back on. I got it nearly in place (with one manifold stud in the head) and got under the car and started to place and push the oil return line in. Returned to the top, and got a couple brass nuts on and went back down and worked the oil line on. This was one of the hardest parts of the job, even harder than the coolant line as I didnt want to break the oil line. With more room of a Malibu or by removing the cat, it would have been much easier, but again, it is doable. Also, while I was in there I replaced the oil cooler, all of the coolant lines to and from the cooler as well as the brittle PCV line that goes to the side of the turbo intake.
Something as important as engine oil trusted to cheap plastic WTF!! The cost of everything these days is ridiculous. So buy the time your done it is a $2000 dollar coolant hose? At least the exhaust gasket designer was using his noodle. As with the rest of the parts those studs are made from chineseum. you guys did a good job on this two part adventure, the vehicle is good for another 10 to 15 k before its next major overhaul.
Hello, I did replace the hoses, but had them connected turbo side. The turbo has to be in the installed position to connect them to the block and coolant tube. Unless you mean the radiator hoses? ~Ryan
Your right, it would have been a good time to do it, but the customer already was up sold a Turbo and the hoses were in working condition. On my own vehicle I may have put new ones in there. Good question ~Ryan
Just did this job yesterday, found that using just 1 brass bolt 1/2 screwed in, helped me be able to leverage the turbo (move it) so that i could get the oil drain tube from down below correctly aligned (having someone up above move it into position), and then insert the 2 bolts from below. Can be a mother of a task, not doing it this way.
The studs I got with my Dorman kit were too long. Gonna have to take it back off AGAIN! Nuts were completely tight , above the 71 inch lbs, and the turbo was still loose. I noticed they were about 3/8 longer, but figured they would work. Well, they won’t. And yes the spacer was in there.
Hey Carl, That’s a really good question. It works better with the system empty. With the system full, it’s hard for the tool to suck all the air out past coolant to get a complete vacuum on the system. It will also spit coolant out the air tube while trying to suck down a full system and will make a mess if you don’t catch it. So to summarize, it will work on a full system, but a standard pressure tester will work better. ~Ryan
And why didn't you recommend and do the oil cooler at the same time since it's stuck behind the turbo and will be a giant pain to get to to replace later on?
Hey Max, We normally recommend it, but this customer was on a budget and opted to just replace the turbo, You are right though, perfect time to get that oil cooler replaced. ~Ryan
I could be wrong but those special nuts look like copper coated steel lock nuts to me I have seen brass nuts never copper and they are not very tough and those look well made steel
I replaced the turbo on my 16 Encore and now the car is misfiring, blowing white smoke out of the exhaust and gurgling from the air inlet tube.. what could that be
Did one of these for the first time yesterday, and now watching this to see if I overlooked anything. It took me about 5 hours to to get it in and out. It was not fun 😕
damn. what sucks is the fact that I'm specifically trying to find out how to disconnect the cooling lines without the special GM tool... Nice video, but wish you would've included removing coolant tubes...
@@UncleRed1999 You need the disconnect tool to properly remove the line from the quick connect fitting. But you don’t need the GM version. The Dorman 667-536 works ok.
Sorry to miss the live chat roadworks QUICK-WITTED Go Tech Ryan Wilsing Tutorial brilliant video great thank you Have a great weekend with all your family around you QUICK-WITTED Go Tech Ryan Wilsing Cameraman Go Tech Mike Becker Happy Wrenching thank you Have a great weekend with all your family around you QUICK-WITTED Go Tech Mike Becker
Hahaha I was screaming at the screen you forget the spacer!!! Love the way you handled that lol.
After I called out how important it was in the fist video, I can't believe I forget to install it. But you got to own it at that point 😂
Thanks for checking out the video!
~Ryan
It's Good to see real life repairs. 😀
Hey Ian,
I couldn’t agree more! I watch TH-cam videos to learn how to fix all kinds of stuff!
~Ryan
This is the best video on TH-cam for removal and installation the turbo on a 1.4L Chevy Cruze, you guys get a rating of 12 out of 10. One step u didn't mention was prelube the turbo bearings before installing the feed tube line. Keep your videos similar to this n your channel will grow, I subscribed and liked your videos.
Hey you did a really nice job explaining everything. Thanks for all the hard work to put out the video!
Hey Robert,
Thanks for the kind words!
It was fun to film having Mike as the camera 🎥 man.
~Ryan
This is the best turbo r&r on youtube
I used a dental pick to get that broken piece out. These encores are made like garbage. Never had so many problems. Great video though best video of a repair i have seen in a long time
I have a 16 Trax. Im getting ready to do my turbo. This is the best video I've seen yet. I've watched several. Glad i read through the comments, too. Alot of useful information there too. Also i live in South Florida, so hardly any corrosion. I just passed 100k miles when i got the p0299. I dont have a lift,so hopefully it goes well. Saving me about $1500 by doing it myself. I'm confident after watching you guys.
I had to replace the 9 o-rings for the oil cooler on the non turbo engine the other day. I couldn't stop laughing at the ridicoulusness lol! Thanks guys!
9 O-rings! Sounds set up fail lol.
Thanks for watching!
Ryan
Thank you for actually showing the install as well in great detail! will be using this tomorrow 🥲
1 question and 1 comment.
I did one of these turbos on a cruz a few weeks ago. The turbo came with a syringe in the box and the instructions said to prime the turbo bearings by forcing oil into the oil inlet after your installed the drain line but before you install the pressure line. Its that the case for all the turbo replacements for this engine or was that only on the one I had and is it necessary to do?
On the clamp that attaches the cat to the turbo once you tighten the bolt down take a rubber mallet or dead blow and lightly tap the clam and torque it again. Repeat process again until the torque has stabilized. That will make sure that seal it nice and tight.
Hey Gary,
Was your Turbo OEM or aftermarket? I believe ours was pre-oiled, the plugs where full of oil and had no instructions to pre-oil. I don’t see how it could ever hurt to do that process though.
Also good tip! Thanks for reaching out !
~Ryan
@GoTech I'm pretty sure my turbo was aftermarket but I'm not 100% sure I can't remember
this is a common issue nowadays. not just on this car but it seems like most recent cars have a low quality turbo that breaks easy. Unfortunately some of them are not as easy as this one to remove and install.
Hey Julio,
Yes I agree, With how common this one fails, I'm glad the replacement is not to bad.
Thanks for checking out the new video!
~Ryan
the problem when it comes to turbos is that changing the oil on time and using the correct oil is imperitive and most car owners don't sevice their cars on time, because they don't realise the importance with these new cars.
@@carlodonnell146 That is also true, some people are not taught how to take care of their car with turbo :). When i finish the infiniti Q50 i am working on now, i will post it here in youtube for all to see what i found out. And sadly, the only fix is to replace them.
Thanks for teaching step by step guys 🙏✌️👍👍👍👍👍
Hey Salvador,
Thanks for supporting the channel!
👍
~Ryan
This by far the best video for removal and installation of a turbo on a 1.4L chevy cruze. One thing u forgot was to prelude the bearings before u installed the lube feed tube. But u got a 12 out of 10 and subscribed to your channel with thumbs up, keep your videos like this one and it will grow. Cheers.
The coolant line with the 17mm banjo bolt goes on the block first (at least start it, you can torque it later), before you make the connection at the quick connect on the turbo. You then insert the line in the quick connect as you’re hanging the turbo/manifold on the studs. Access to insert is straightforward by reaching up from below/behind the turbo through the area where the cat would be. Utilizing the quick connect makes install easy… allows you to start the banjo bolt by hand without it flopping around or losing a seal.
wow.. that makes sense. Always wondered why some places gave you a bunch of quick connects with the kit.
very nice video, great cam work
Hey John,
Thanks for watching!
We had fun playing with a new camera, Mike did a good job dialing it in!
~Ryan
Really GREAT JOB RYAN! Thanks to Mike for the camera operation.
Lotta work guys!
I think my son-in-law has this setup in his Chevy. I know he was told the turbo was bad, I think it had oil leaks also. I'll know in a couple days, as the dealer is doing the repairs. Glad it's not me ! !
Hey Mike,
Hahaha, It's not too bad of a job.
Thanks for watching!
~Ryan
Great video - Thank you. Bought a friends Chevy Sonic that needed a new turbo. This video was great. The sonic was far more cramped but workable. I didnt remove the cat, but if I had to do it again I may have. Living in MI with 100K+ miles the bolts were really rusted on the exhaust and I knew I was replacing the oil return line so I just yanked it(the turbo) off. My return also broke off in the block after releasing the clip which was a PITA to fix, but was doable. I installed the oil line onto the new turbo before install and was very careful with all of the lines fitting the turbo back on. I got it nearly in place (with one manifold stud in the head) and got under the car and started to place and push the oil return line in. Returned to the top, and got a couple brass nuts on and went back down and worked the oil line on. This was one of the hardest parts of the job, even harder than the coolant line as I didnt want to break the oil line. With more room of a Malibu or by removing the cat, it would have been much easier, but again, it is doable. Also, while I was in there I replaced the oil cooler, all of the coolant lines to and from the cooler as well as the brittle PCV line that goes to the side of the turbo intake.
Something as important as engine oil trusted to cheap plastic WTF!! The cost of everything these days is ridiculous. So buy the time your done it is a $2000 dollar coolant hose? At least the exhaust gasket designer was using his noodle. As with the rest of the parts those studs are made from chineseum. you guys did a good job on this two part adventure, the vehicle is good for another 10 to 15 k before its next major overhaul.
Hey Frank,
I agree, a few braided stainless lines and this thing might have a chance at being durable.
Thanks for reaching out!
~Ryan
Why didnt you replace the coolent hoses while having it all out? 12:09
Hello,
I did replace the hoses, but had them connected turbo side. The turbo has to be in the installed position to connect them to the block and coolant tube.
Unless you mean the radiator hoses?
~Ryan
@@GoTechTraining yes rad hoses
Your right, it would have been a good time to do it, but the customer already was up sold a Turbo and the hoses were in working condition. On my own vehicle I may have put new ones in there.
Good question
~Ryan
Great video, nice recording and detailed explanation. keep it up
Thanks for this very usefull video, I've seen that you have to pre lube the new turbo. Is it necessary to pre lube the new turbo?
I was thinking that same thing🤔
Just did this job yesterday, found that using just 1 brass bolt 1/2 screwed in, helped me be able to leverage the turbo (move it) so that i could get the oil drain tube from down below correctly aligned (having someone up above move it into position), and then insert the 2 bolts from below. Can be a mother of a task, not doing it this way.
The studs I got with my Dorman kit were too long. Gonna have to take it back off AGAIN! Nuts were completely tight , above the 71 inch lbs, and the turbo was still loose. I noticed they were about 3/8 longer, but figured they would work. Well, they won’t. And yes the spacer was in there.
That’s the worst !
Thanks for posting! I’ll look out for that kit!
I had the same issue. come to find out i had the studs in the head backwards.
holding the flash light for my dad haha
Hahah you've been there John?
~Mike
Well-done. Thank you.
At the risk of asking a silly question, will that vacuum pump test a cooling system that is full or does it have to be empty?
Hey Carl,
That’s a really good question.
It works better with the system empty. With the system full, it’s hard for the tool to suck all the air out past coolant to get a complete vacuum on the system. It will also spit coolant out the air tube while trying to suck down a full system and will make a mess if you don’t catch it. So to summarize, it will work on a full system, but a standard pressure tester will work better.
~Ryan
@@GoTechTraining thanks for the explanation!!
And why didn't you recommend and do the oil cooler at the same time since it's stuck behind the turbo and will be a giant pain to get to to replace later on?
Hey Max,
We normally recommend it, but this customer was on a budget and opted to just replace the turbo, You are right though, perfect time to get that oil cooler replaced.
~Ryan
I could be wrong but those special nuts look like copper coated steel lock nuts to me
I have seen brass nuts never copper and they are not very tough and those look well made steel
Hey Jim,
You could be right, we where trying to figure out what they they were made of, but didn't have much luck on our search.
~Ryan
17mm - coolant banjo bolt
When would you see the actuator arm move?
So how much better did the Cruze run after this job?
Hey Max,
I was told by the customer, it had a little better acceleration and the big thing was , the coolant leak was gone!
~Ryan
Will it screw up my sensors/ Engine check?
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
👍👏👏👏👍
I replaced the turbo on my 16 Encore and now the car is misfiring, blowing white smoke out of the exhaust and gurgling from the air inlet tube.. what could that be
Did one of these for the first time yesterday, and now watching this to see if I overlooked anything. It took me about 5 hours to to get it in and out. It was not fun 😕
Haha me too! Most frustrating 6hours of my life
anything plastic hate it,cartrige filters are horsechips
Oil pans are plastic,valve covers, it’s only a matter of time before the first plastic cylinder head 😂
damn. what sucks is the fact that I'm specifically trying to find out how to disconnect the cooling lines without the special GM tool... Nice video, but wish you would've included removing coolant tubes...
@@UncleRed1999 You need the disconnect tool to properly remove the line from the quick connect fitting. But you don’t need the GM version. The Dorman 667-536 works ok.
❤❤❤❤
time to go back to naturally aspirated engines
Sorry to miss the live chat roadworks
QUICK-WITTED Go Tech Ryan Wilsing
Tutorial brilliant video great thank you
Have a great weekend with all your family around you QUICK-WITTED Go Tech Ryan Wilsing
Cameraman Go Tech Mike Becker Happy Wrenching thank you
Have a great weekend with all your family around you
QUICK-WITTED Go Tech Mike Becker
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 21:29pm
Hey Nick,
No worries, plenty more fun to come!
Have a great weekend! Hope all is well!
~Ryan