Jeep One Ton Swap (Part 2) - Everything You NEED to Know
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- Part 2 focuses on the rear axle of a Jeep JKU one ton swap.
My front axle wound up being moved forward 1.5 inches and my rear axle was moved back 1 inch.
Follow on Instagram for more @WarPaintJKU
Snap Ring Pliers:
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***Disclaimer*** This video is just meant to show how I do it. Injury may occur by trying to replicate what is in this video. Attempt at your own risk, with proper equipment and training.
Your channel is exactly what I was looking for. Very informative, not just flash and money. Once I finish building our house in a year, I will be starting on my 2010 2 door JK. I always wanted to put in Dana 60's. Cheers from Canada.
Hey Pete! That’s amazing! Big things happening! I’m glad you found me! The channel is fairly new. I’ll be putting lots of different axles under lots of different fun toys. Showing how to do it in a normal guy budget at home in a normal guy garage! Stay tuned for sure and let me know if you have any questions.
you can always run 52t tone rings for the rear and run dual sensors off just the rear axle with artec sensor mounts. all you need then is just to extend the abs sensor wire from the front to the back. worked great for me
Heck yea you can! That’s an awesome option. Not what I did. But an awesome option.
@@WarPaintOffroad its especially a great option for guys who may not have access to or be able to afford a scanner tool that will let them be able to put in those odd ball calculated ratios for tire size and gear ratios when using the 60t tone rings which was my case. the only issue i ran into with the dual tone rings on my 14 bolt was that the caliper bracket needed about an 1/8" of clearance ground down so that it wasn't putting pressure on the sensor. i had no idea mine was touching until the abs light came on an i saw that the caliper bracket was pushing on the sensor just enough to where it was making contact with the tone ring and ate up the sensor lol
@@matthawkins1287 yea..that’s no problem. When you put tons under a rig you know a little nipping and tucking is in order. 😂 but man you should get the jscan. It’s super cheap. And it would allow for all the calculations on the rig. Plus it allows you to run live data to help solve issues. A lifesaver.
@@WarPaintOffroad i ended up getting after the fact because i was late to the party and didn't know about it lol. it has been nice since i finally installed it though
@@matthawkins1287 That’s awesome!
Very informative videos part 1 and 2 . Wanting to swap this into my 2008 jku
Glad it helped. I’m actually swapping another set of the same axles this fall into a 2007 jku. I’ll be doing it step by step and show the entire process in a build series. It it won’t start until the fall. I have to wait for the summer heat to break.
@@WarPaintOffroad I definitely understand that, I live in south carolina so I know about the heat . I will definitely be watching out for the videos for sure . Make sure you explain how to get the angle degrees when doing the trusses please 🙏. Thanks
So I won’t actually be Doing trusses. But I’ll definitely talk about how to find the angle…it’s not too hard. I’ll make it easily understood…
Very cool
Thanks for the support!
Lots of very informative stuff. Appreciate it. What size and brand wheel spacers did you run? Im doing a 95 Bronco, Im swapping the same front and older Sterling with 8x6.5 lug pattern because it was free! Thanks!
Awesome! Thanks for the support! I am running 1.5 inch adapters made by Bora. But there are lots of them out there. Just get something made out of the 6061 aluminum and make sure to install them correctly. Good luck with it!
You kept the brakes on the front Axle, but switched to Powerstop on rear. Any reason to not use the 14 bolt brakes? Thanks.
I put powerstop rotors on the back…. BUt they are the same as what was there. Just made by powerstop. I have built so many Dana 60’s I’m not sure what brand I put on the front of this one. They may have been made by powerstop. I don’t remember. But I essentially replaced the calipers, rotors, and pads with what was there factory. I just but the replacement stuff from aftermarket companies to save some cash.
I'm glad I have a LJ haha
Pi’s are cool. But you’ll still have the approach and departure angle issues a TJ has stock. The stretch allows for a great wheelbase but also that zero approach and departure angle, plus longer control arms making it perform better too. So it’s always just pros and cons.
You mentioned making sure the fusion e Brake cables are routed correctly. What’s the trick?
Installing them under the console is basically the trick. You can’t completely remove the console because it releases the tension on the factory spring when you do that. Then It’s almost impossible to get the tension back on it.
What is the reasoning for making sure the 14 bolt has the cooling fins cast into the diff housing? I think I have seen some without the cooling fins, are those style missing something significant?
They are. So the aftermarket support for trusses and things fit better. But aside from that…they made MANY 14 bolts over the years. Some are just a semi float rear which isn’t much stronger than a factory jeep Dana 44. The one from 99-2006 in the gm 2500 has the cooling fins as well as the pinion being in its own housing, which you’ll be able to see with theb6 bolts around the pinion yoke. That is the one you want for a jeep. Lots of aftermarket support. Full float axle shafts, the right width, etc. it also has a 10.5 inch ring gear.
Hey Dan, does a 2010 2 door JK have the same issue with the Sterling and gas tank as the 4 door?
It does! There is a work around by just hammering in the rear corner of the tank a bit. That will allow it to clear. You can also remove it and run a fuel cell or a tank behind the rear axle. There is also the option of stretching it enough to clear. But that requires other things to be moved…like the rear track bar.
What’s your opinion of doin a d60 from 07 and a Sterling 10.25 in the rear
The Dana 60 is a GREAT option from that year. The sterling is a great rear too. But, the sterling becomes a problem on a jk. The issue being the pinion on the rear axle of a sterling is shifted toward the passenger side quite a bit. So without a major stretch, gas tank relocation, or beating in the gas tank, it just won’t clear. That’s why most people use the 14 bolt.
It’s clear why people don’t use matching set from ford truck (lack of aftermarket support). How come people don’t use matching front and back axle from a Chevy ??
Yea. There is actually support for the rear Ford (Sterling). The main issue with it is the pinion comes out farther ion the passenger side. So what happens when you flex that in a jk, it will hit the fuel tank. It’s just easier to regear a 14 bolt rear and you don’t have that issue. The front axle in the Chevy though is only a 9.25 inch ring gear. So it’s just not the best axle to use. Being that these builds are completely custom…it’s just easier to get a great front axle and a great rear axle that works on the application, even if they are from different manufacturers.
@@WarPaintOffroad makes sense. Thanks for info
What track bar are you running in the rear?
cant find the link for the snap ring plier
You are right. It wasn’t there. I just added it to the description. Thanks for the heads up!