Hi Devin, great little vid on battery disconnects mate, you briefly mentioned if your running an alternator, can you add the detail either on this vid or on another on wiring the alternator with a shut off, particularly non single wire alternators please
Could you explain more or show in another video this with the alternator. You quickly went over it saying you needed two but I'm curious how it's wired.
It's a high current relay. Yeah, that's the way I wire disconnects. Looks like your gizmo is fancier than the PAC relays I use. Funny you mentioned Tim and his button!
Devin, I have used a similar one from a company called Simtek in the uk (where I'm based) Their one has an additional set of contacts to hold the contactor closed and a momentary nc switch for the e stop. They also use a high watt resistor to bleed off the alternator backfeed when the contactor is opened. I've used them before on an old carb build I di before. I'd be interested in hearing your opinion of the alternator bleed off on an efi application? I'm really enjoying the tech videos !, Thanks Neil
Using a optimum battery with side post and upper post. Have connected my starter and alternator to he upper post, ECU and all other load from the side post. Do I need two solenoids to break both power supplies. If so then can they be wired in parallel.
Since this needs both switches on to power the car, could you then just leave say the bumper mounted switch on at all times, and just use the in car deal to switch the power on and off without killing the battery?
So to clarify, this is supplying main power to the fuse panel or pdm, which handles coil and injector power, but it's still fine to run the Holley straight to the battery, correct? And for the alternator, we just add another contractor in-between the alternator charge wire and the battery?
you can do it with one, just will have a hot wire to the alternator at all times, which isnt that great but will work perfectly fine. i prefer to use 2 of them
@@theholleyefiguy So theres no issues with running the alternator to same lug on the switch that the battery connects to? If thats the case I am sold on it.
Devin? Can you go a little further and show people how to properly wire the battery side of the equation? To many times I’ve been running tech at an event and people don’t have the alternator charge back wire on the correct side of the “relay”.. and the car doesn’t cutoff if the idle is above 1500 or so RPM. The alternator needs to “dump” back to the battery side of the “relay”.
Be nice and put a package together with all (3) components and then a link to it so people can buy easily. Then maybe I’ll buy. I don’t have time to dig and try to find everything
like i said in the video we are working on putting them on the website, but if you wanted a package you could look at the description of this video and contact us and we can get it out the door same day
Hi Devin, great little vid on battery disconnects mate, you briefly mentioned if your running an alternator, can you add the detail either on this vid or on another on wiring the alternator with a shut off, particularly non single wire alternators please
I really appreciate you taking the time to put out all the videos! Definitely some of the best on TH-cam!!
When will they be available on the wed site? And can you show us how to wire them with the alternator?
Could you explain more or show in another video this with the alternator. You quickly went over it saying you needed two but I'm curious how it's wired.
It's a high current relay. Yeah, that's the way I wire disconnects. Looks like your gizmo is fancier than the PAC relays I use. Funny you mentioned Tim and his button!
Just ordered mine. This makes life simple and I really wanted that in cab switch.
Devin, I have used a similar one from a company called Simtek in the uk (where I'm based) Their one has an additional set of contacts to hold the contactor closed and a momentary nc switch for the e stop. They also use a high watt resistor to bleed off the alternator backfeed when the contactor is opened. I've used them before on an old carb build I di before. I'd be interested in hearing your opinion of the alternator bleed off on an efi application? I'm really enjoying the tech videos !, Thanks Neil
just a quick question.. when wiring from the battery.. would you put a fuse going to this?
Using a optimum battery with side post and upper post. Have connected my starter and alternator to he upper post, ECU and all other load from the side post. Do I need two solenoids to break both power supplies. If so then can they be wired in parallel.
Thank you.
Interested in the kit this kit for sure.
Another great video keep up the good work... checked your website and couldn't find the battery passthrough you use?
were still working on putting everything on the site, if you email laura@hcrinnovations.com she will take care of ya
Isnt it easier/safer to only control ground on the contactor with the switches? No need for fuse to the switches that way
Since this needs both switches on to power the car, could you then just leave say the bumper mounted switch on at all times, and just use the in car deal to switch the power on and off without killing the battery?
thats exactly what i do. nothing worse than getting strapped in to only realize you forgot to turn on the switch on the bumper lol
@@theholleyefiguy Happens to me almost every time I get in, then looking around yelling for someone to turn the damn car on lol
i like this better than the data switch panel
So to clarify, this is supplying main power to the fuse panel or pdm, which handles coil and injector power, but it's still fine to run the Holley straight to the battery, correct? And for the alternator, we just add another contractor in-between the alternator charge wire and the battery?
Yes
👍👍👍
So with an alternator I need 2 of them ok. Was going to email in this week to discuss them
you can do it with one, just will have a hot wire to the alternator at all times, which isnt that great but will work perfectly fine. i prefer to use 2 of them
@@theholleyefiguy So theres no issues with running the alternator to same lug on the switch that the battery connects to? If thats the case I am sold on it.
are you going to sell a kit with both switches?
Yes she is working on getting this stuff on the website
I couldn’t find the switches in your website,
were still working on putting everything on the site, if you email laura@hcrinnovations.com she will take care of ya
@@theholleyefiguy thank you, I will send email
Wouldn’t a solid state kill switch’s work a better ?
Not in my opinion
Devin? Can you go a little further and show people how to properly wire the battery side of the equation? To many times I’ve been running tech at an event and people don’t have the alternator charge back wire on the correct side of the “relay”.. and the car doesn’t cutoff if the idle is above 1500 or so RPM. The alternator needs to “dump” back to the battery side of the “relay”.
Devin,
I heard you say if running an alternator you’d run in series can you example that for dummy wire people like me. 😂
Yep I'll work on that shortly
Before I even watch this video I bet he's going to talk about excite wires on alternators
No0e
@@theholleyefiguy hah
Be nice and put a package together with all (3) components and then a link to it so people can buy easily. Then maybe I’ll buy.
I don’t have time to dig and try to find everything
like i said in the video we are working on putting them on the website, but if you wanted a package you could look at the description of this video and contact us and we can get it out the door same day