How To Install A Battery Relocation Kit & Battery Kill Switch On Any Car
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มิ.ย. 2024
- ►There are many reasons why you would want to relocate your battery with a battery relocation kit. You might want to simply clean up the look of your engine bay, or it could be for reasons more performance-oriented such as weight distribution.
Motorsport Director and driver of the #72 FCP Euro GTI TCR, Nate Vincent, shows you how to relocate your battery to the trunk of your car using our battery relocation kit. Along with simply relocating the battery to the trunk, Nate also demonstrates how to install a battery kill switch as this is common for motorsport applications.
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Killswitch: www.fcpeuro.com/products/batt...
00:00 - The Parts You Need to Relocate Your Battery
02:50 - Relocating The Battery
04:30 - Mounting The Battery Tie Down Bracket
06:13 - Making the Positive Terminal Cables
10:02 - Routing The Positive Cable Through The Car
13:02 - Hooking The Power Back Into The Car
15:15 - Attaching The Positive Cables To The Kill Switch
16:31 - Creating/Mounting A Ground Strap
17:27 - Testing The Circuit
18:50 - Configure/Wiring The Kill Switch
24:35 - Attaching A Resistor In Line
26:31 - Kill Switch Wiring Overview
28:14 - Testing The System
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Extremely helpful to see someone add the kill switch. So much clearer than reading descriptions.
hate to be that guy but soldering those cables is a failure waiting to happen, not to mention the wire was compromised by the heat as well as the jacket since it was burnt...also using solder in a Crimp fitting is a no....any true wiring professional will tell you nothing replaces a mechanical bond aka a crimp..no real motorsports grade wiring shop or person uses solder on major connections..
This is a phenomenal video. I did a relocation and kill switch on my GTI years ago, but still learned a few things. I'll be sharing this video a lot when people ask about my relocation.
Really appreciate that GasInnMyVeins20AE ! Good to know that even people who may be familiar with this process are still able to take something from it. As always we appreciate the shares and being able to help others out!
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Thanks guys! This is going to help me a lot with my 2015 Audi A3 race car build!
This is one of the best automotive how to videos I've seen out of the 1000+ I've watched. Great job! You have my subscription.
Excellent video and explanation of how to wire the kill switch. I've watched numerous videos on this subject and this is the first one that made sense. Thank you!
Glad it helped Chris!
This video is probably that best one on youtube for a battery relocation and master cutoff
We appreciate that tturi2 ! Hopefully people are finding it helpful
Great work making this general enough to be applicable on any car, but still highly informative.
Glad to hear thats how it came across Tanner as that was our hope/intent with this video! Hope to do more like this.
Great video, thanks for filming it.
This is perfect! Easy step-by-step instructions. Very informative and very, very understandable. It provides self-confidence like yeah i get it know i can do this and if i get stuck ill just watch this video again😁 lol. Wiring is not my forte😅. Thank you!
Glad to hear it John, thats exactly why we make these videos! Wiring can be a scary rabbit hole to dive into, but at its core its simple. Let us know how it goes if choose to tackle it!
Nate - we have been running 2 Miata race cars in an endurance series with a 4 pole kill switch and have had two alternator failures. The setup that we have been using does not have the resistor and circuit to dissipate the residual power from the alternator. One alternator failure was from a bad connection that caused the alternator to have many cycles of momentary cut off which killed the circuits in the alternator. We suspect the second failure is from drivers turning the car off with the kill switch instead of the ignition and the alternator getting the surge that you have very thoroughly explained. Our next step is to install a 6 pole kill switch and follow your installation procedure. Thank you for explaining it so well.
Happy to be of some help with those Miatas!
U are the right teacher I will thank you for your support and the great explanation learn allot from you appreciations 👍🙏
Nice editing.
Very nice and you ful info. I work on Lada 2107 rally build
Thanks for this video! I never considered the possible damage to electrical components as the alternator winds down and giving it a safe path to ground...
happy to provide a new perspective!
excellent presentation
Thanks Pinoy AutoMoto GPS Master! Happy to hear you enjoyed the presentation.
Good lil video.
Thanks C_Does
such a great video
Thanks. Do all Odyssey batteries use that threaded connection?
god damn, watched it at 2x speed, still got bored, nice info tough, thanks.
I’m looking at using this type of switch as a power cut off to my subwoofer amplifier. Will this work the same if it’s on the main power line to my amp?
If i don‘t move my battery can i use the negative terminal for my kill switch for the battery, as ground an ground wouldn’t short out in the cabine?
Hello, how do you then conect an extarnal cable to be according with FIA normative? How is that killer operated outside the car?
Do you use circuit breakers? Didn't see one in the video. Figured you'd have 1 to protect the wires from the battery in case of some random surge and another at the alternator to protect the wire for the same.
Hello sir I didn't figure out those wires nc no that you replace it from the relay can you explanation that for me please thank you
When installing just a battery post to prevent drainage during storage, which post is best, the positive or negative or isolate both posts when battery is left in the car.??
Shop the Kit Used in this video here : www.fcpeuro.com/products/automotive-battery-powersport-kit-odyssey-pc925mj?
@23:20 Nate mentions running the black wire to the NO switch but its actually to the NC switch. The NO's are used for the red wires connecting to the ecu.
It's a great video nice and clean appreciations for the good job but please can you send me the wiring diagram for that switch thanks 🙏👍because of the confusion off what different people saying about the plus and minus of the batteri
I need your help badly. Have basically the same switch. Hooked everything up and of course it does not shut car down when running. I have a 2001 celica gt. Now I never put in the wire to shut down the ECM . I need help figuring out what wire that is...I can't find a relay that controls the ecm. Help please
how do you mount the switch? looks like you just have it hanging out there where it can jump around when key is incerted and turned on and off. good clear vid thanx
Hi Bowlweevil, Ben made a metal plate that comes off the roll cage to hard-mount the switch in his mini!
No fuse on the new battery cable?
Does it reset your settings everytime?
Is the odyssey tray going to fit into my e36 trunk location and do I need to drill into the car too ? Or the factory clamp will do ?
I’ve been soldering for 20 years professionally and hobby rc related and I can say that was not the proper way to solder that lead to the copper connector. Always “tin” the wire and get some solder on your connector prior to attempting to make your joint. That solder did not flow thru all the strands of that thick wire properly. That’s why the wire was starting to burn lol 🤦🏻♂️ let me know when there’s a video next time I’m open for a job 😉
This is why it’s always suggested to crimp since 99% of people don’t know how to properly solder and of the 1% that do maybe only half of them actually know wassup. Lol a simple smash hammer type crimp would be better than those cold solder joints that are prone to cracking and causing all sorts of poor connections
What thickness in diameter cable did you use ??
He said 2 gauge
Definitely not for a race care but I just need to keep the battery off so my radio stops pulling power. Would this type of thing work
In theory a kill switch that shuts battery power would stop the parasitic draw
Great video overall, particularly covering the critical connections required to have the ECU kill the engine and also protect from the alternator surge. However I thought it was an interesting choice in going with a solder connection there, specially on a race car. Wouldn't crimping have been a better choice for reliability on those connections?
Crimping is definitely more reliable! Only soldering the cable lug is sub-par. Others that are watching, please crimp your cable lugs!
@@davan278 uhhh what evidence do you have for this? he used high temp solder which is not going to come loose under a car hood. you would need temps over 700F to loosen lol......
The vibrations can crack the bond of solder connection wire to lug. I would do both.
Would you recommend a breaker, and/ or necessary for passing tech?
That's what I was gonna ask. Having to move my battery to the trunk coz of the hassle prying it out of the engine bay. The motor is a v8 but the frame is for a v6 which makes the it very crampy. Figured 100 amp breaker on both ends should be good enough. 1 by the battery to protect the wire from a surge from the battery and another on the engine side to protect the wire from a surge from the alternator.
Just remember you want the amp to be less than the max the wire can handle otherwise it won't protect anything. The kit I bought is a jegs brand from Amazon and according to them the 2guage wire I have has a max if 120 amps.
@@dragonext2001 I was thinking 80 amps, for hondas
@@JiroProject my car is a 2008 Buick lacrosse super. Originally they tried to sell it as a luxury car with a v6 but no one wanted it so they swapped for a small block v8 that was ment for a truck and added the title "super" the frame is ment for the v6 so the v8 pulleys are inches from the battery making it a headache to change.i figured 100 amps should be enough to avoid the car not starting. I'm sure I'll loose alittle power with the 20ft cord.
Great video! Quick question, if installing double isolation (class im converting car for requires isolation inside car within drivers reach and externally on the car) would you just put them in series for the main power line? (I.e. power cable goes battery to switch, out of switch to next switch and out of switch engine connection? Would you also just double up the NC/NO wiring?
Would you not just put a pull cable for the marshal directly to the kill switch in the car??
if i wanted to just run the kill switch to the factory battery location how would i go about it?
any luck? i was looking to do the same
How is the killswitch holding up? My cheap one is having faults and I’m thinking of upgrading to the sparco.
So far so good!
@@fcpeuro okay that’s good to hear.
How cheap is a cheap one? Lol a sparco is only like $60
@@marcgonzalez9920 about $20
Can this be done on BMWs? Or do they need some type of current
Hi John, the general idea is the same for any vehicle! Locations will differ of course.
What about a fuse or circuit breaker?
Lord Almighty. Above and beyond. thankyou
A for effort, but this battery wiring cannot be called racecar battery wiring. The method used to terminate the heavy gauge cable would never be used on a real racecar. It is not a reliable or desired. I'm not knocking the enthusiasm or the effort, though. The intent for the content was well-intentioned, I believe. Just lacking knowledge and technique.
Invest in a good quality heat gun with those different deflector attachments.
It's also best to only do continuity testing when the circuit under test is not live. The multimeter eventually damages from it.
There's a hydraulic wire crimper which costs around 40$, why soldering? This doesn't looks bullet proof at all. Also is it really ok to drill a hole right into the body and just put a screw in there? Is it better maybe use rivets with a threads? also covering sides of the hole with some acid primer? From the bottom any water which will get in there will flame a corrossion? no?
Making me do nervous touching the battery terminal with that screwdriver
Its a good thing FCP EURO doesn't have sky-high prices. Oh, wait....
shouldn't this be done on the negative side of the battery instead of making things so complicated?
Am i crazy, or is anyone else absolutely terrified the bolts at the battery cut of are going to touch the metal roll cage and blow up the car?? like yea its painted but still! put a plastic cap on it or something xD
Don't worry TY we electric taped the heck out of them!
Needs fused
I’m looking at using this type of switch as a power cut off to my subwoofer amplifier. Will this work the same if it’s on the main power line to my amp?