I had a parasitic draw on my 08 Azera and my mechanic said it would likely be over 1000$ to go through and find and fix it where as the kill switch was 30$ and 60$ in lahbor. Works for me so far.
Now i understand. Universal Mains Pass though for only 1 WIRE. You Must choose what wire to break. Either break the Negative battery wire or CHOOSE to Break the line of the Positive. This relay is a current pass through for ONE wire only! Got it!
@@mxcollin95 CCA = *C* old; *C* ranking; *A* amps One should find that rating on the battery. In the colder areas where I've lived that rating is very obvious on the battery label and often on the store-shelf; (Warmer areas don't put as much emphasis on this rating so it's hardly ever on the shelf but still on the batter itself).
@@zpvnrt Most vehicles starter motors have their own earth strap to the chassis of the car, only the positive terminal needs to be rated to the cca of the starter.
@@craigmcqueen6315 Everything connected to the path of the current draw needs to be rated to the CCA - "Ask Me How I Know!" - No, I'll save you the hassle: I put in a cut-out relay between the positive and the starter as the starter on my vehicle is grounded thru the engine block. Power side of the relay was rated for 2x the DC voltage and the standard amp; however, not for the CCA - blew the power sided apart and started it on fire. Learn from my mistakes - One, FUSE THE RELAY and Two, make sure it's rated for more than the maximum anticipated current draw.
Damn !!! thanks a lot for this video. I spend $500 on 2 mechanics them guys trying to figure out what's the cause of draining my battery , them idiots didn't fix the problem. In desperation I tuned in to TH-cam to solve the problem myself until I stumbled upon this video among a handful. I bought from a amazon the same brand featured in this video and my problem was solved for $40. Those freaking mechanics are crooks if not idiots. Again thanks for posting this video 😀.......
Thank you so much!! Mine was shipped without the manual. Fortunately I came across your video.Your instructions were very easy to understand, even for someone like me who is not super-knowledgeable about vehicle mechanics. Subscribing now and looking forward to more how-tos 👍
I installed it on my 2008 nissan xterra Its working fine Just it resets the setting of my car due to power Disconnection I think this device is good to use once a while.
Great video but I’m still confused, all leads disconnected from negative, relay fitted to negative: red positive fitted to battery positive. Where do the leads taken off the battery negative fix to
Thanks, I got a tiny little manual, was near impossible to understand, no pictures of actual unit. Watching your vid helps a lot. Still not sure what the big copper connecter and red runbber cap was.
I demonstrate how that Copper Connecter goes between the terminal of the relay and the battery clamp terminal in my video, not sure what you mean about the cap.
nice i like this i want it on my classic car and daily driver but it would have been better if you could hide the box for security against theft and maybe have it on bluetooth where you can read battery health and have the key fob
@babayagagaming4691 to help you with wiring the relay, here is a short video I made for someone else that was not sure. The black & red wires go to the battery pod & Neg terminals. Watch the video. I explain it in detail. Good luck. drive.google.com/file/d/13o2NUnYsfqrZNc-T1ASSdrRzkc3mksYV/view?usp=drivesdk
I think I’m going to try this on my second battery in our SUV, I want to set it up as an aux. battery to use for lights, fridge, stereo etc. I should be able to disconnect the second battery from the main battery with the click of a switch instead of having to open and close the hood all the time. Do you think it would work well for this ??
Thank you for the video. Ultimately are you happy with your purchase? I read the reviews and it seems people either loved it or others said it stopped working after a month or two.
It will work with any standard size battery, they is what it is designed to work with. It disconnects the battery from your vehicle with a remote control. Then it will connect it back with a push of the remote control. It really does not car what car is attached
@garyedwards1184 the battery disconnect does completely disconnect the battery from the car. Anything on the car that requires power will loose it. Most radios you will not loose the stations, but you could loose other things, alarms. There is a side effect to everything you do to make changes to a car. Install it and see how it goes. Easy to disconnect if too much change.
Question. These won't necessarily fry the computers will they? All i'd have to really worry about is reseting my settings each time? Because if thats the case i dont mind having to do that each time.
You need the original neg lead. If you connect the relay to neg side, you connect the neg terminal to the relay and the other side connects to the neg battery post. The relay becomes a switch to add the battery or take it away.
Is it a good idea to keep this on a car that's unused for a long time? Anything with a remote drains battery passively over trine to enable the remote switch to remain active and ready
@laurinantonio7948, there is a small drain on the battery, not sure how long it would take to drain the battery down below the point to start. Check the battery voltage when it gets down to 11 volts, you are at a point you need to charge the battery. If it gets into the 10 volts area, you could have a starting problem. But, you just monitor and charger up as needed.
I've tested the current draw with a bench top psu. Off draws 9mA and On draws 250mA. Lead acid self discharge is way larger than the current this gizmo draws in the off position.
Yes, My RV has side mount screw on connection. I tell about getting Post and Connectors adapters to convert the side to post connection. Just listen and watch me. Watch the whole video.
This device will help people that have a power drain that can not be found. Repair shops have problems with this, as it takes a long time and lots of luck to find. Best solution, Battery Disconnect switch. Thanks for liking my video.
Excellent video Sam. Great idea and device. I noticed your battery position is very close to the grill. The relay device appears to be very exposed to the elements ( Rain, Snow, Airflow, cold ) Have you experienced any problems since installation ?
@larrywheatley9444 the relay is totally sealed, no problem with weather, the only way to design a device like this. My video was to demonstrate how the relay worked and how to install. I did not drive with it as I sold my RV shortly after that. The Relay has a simple task, remove the battery connection with remote operation and restore when ready. One of the primary uses for a relay device like this is when you have a current drain overnight and it leaves the battery too low to start. Hard to find and expensive to have auto shop find the problem. This is the low cost solution to the problem. I must say that it is not idea for the new cars with all kinds of AI features and self driving and collision avoidance. High tech software features. It is for the older cars that the big features are electric seats and windows and maybe the electric antenna. The Relay is great when you need to store the vehicle for a period of time for travel. This can work for the new cars also, in that the main problem with new cars is that the software needs time of driving to relearn conditions of driving to set the parameters for proper operations. This is why it is not best for new cars on a daily basis. Plus new cars have software to detect current drains in the system and report the location. I know I went outside the bounds of your question, but this is an opportunity to explain to others the purpose of this relay and limitations. Good Luck!
@@samowens44 Hi Sam... Thank you for the quick reply. Its a very comprehensive and informative response. I can certainly see the benefits of its use. I have a 1999 P38 Range Rover 2.5 DSE. Battery drain is a common fault with the P38 due to the onboard computers waking up from outside radio wave sources and draining the battery. The only issue I can see with effectively disconnecting the battery on the P38 is this... All windows and sun roof would have to be reset each time. I will look into this further to see if that issue could be resolved. Thanks again... Larry Leicester UK.
I’m wanting to connect one to the power side of my electric fans in my Javelin. How would I wire it to this to shut off only the fans? I’m assuming I’d take the main power from the battery and put it somewhere on this relay instead?
@FasterNLouder on the relay there are two lugs with nuts. This is your switch contacts. When the relay is off the contacts are closed and with power lead on one lug it will pass to the other lug and onto the fan. When you operate relay with remote, the lugs open the contact and the fan will no longer get power. That simple. The black and red leads from the relay need to have Pos and Grd on them to power the relay.
@@samowens44 the way that I’m understanding this, is that I would have to run the main ground for my fan relays to this disconnect relay and leave everything else on the negative post of the battery. The other option would be running the main power for the fans to this relay and then attaching it to the positive post of the battery with everything else still connected to the positive post of the battery like normal.
@@FasterNLouder I drew a wiring diagram to help you and any others. Hope this will tell the story. Remember the frame of car is your ground connection to the battery, so you can use it for the grd wire. drive.google.com/file/d/18_ue8FG1ms2g5dHqCOFI4HCP6zkr73XG/view?usp=sharing
Asking another question, if you have time to answer. On the Chevy HHRs, on mine anyway, there is a panel under the windshield wiper on the passenger side, that will leak over time, and cause the passenger floor board to get wet. I thought the windshield seal was leaking, called safelite back after they had installed the windshield, and the man showed me the panel under the windshield wiper panel (all i know to call it) and the area under the windshield wiper panel had the cover come off, and this was what was leaking water into my car floor board. He taped it up for me, and not long after that my blower motor stopped working, and we had to put in a new blower motor. Could the blower motor being hooked up not quite right cause a power drain on my battery? It blows hot air, but sounds a bit muffled (could be a dirty cabin filter?) or could some of the circuits have gotten wet from the leak, and causing a power drain? My radio does not work, I've put in a new fuse, nothing. Turn signals do not make noise. Nothing. Every now and then i hear a faint chime when I put my foot on the door close button and take it off. (with the door open of course) I have not been able to drive my car for several years because of the battery drain. Although when i jump it, it takes a while, but it starts. I have drove it about five miles not long ago, but just don't know what to expect from it, so I don't go far with it. Any ideas? I can't afford a mechanic. That's why i was looking at battery disconnect switches. Shew weee that's a lot of typing. I have no mechanical skills what so ever. Thanks for reading.
@darcyannewton-staley3987 I know how car troubles can really cause you stress. If you did not have all the issues you describe before the water leak, then water is most likely cause of the problem. This is a real hard problem to find and solve as it would take a mechanic more time to find and I don't think he would want to take on the job. He would just first see if there is a fuse box in the area of the leak, if water gets into a fuse box it can cause connection problems due to corrosion in several circuits. Sometimes the fuse boxes are located in the glove compartment area behind a panel. This is a good area for the location of the leak area you described. Have someone to check this as your most likely trouble area, if the fuse box is there. Moisture once in electrical areas, it can grow in problems as corrosion will grow causing the problem to get worse. Have someone with technical ability to check this for you. will a strong light, have them to look at the fuse box for any signs of corrosion, it will have to be cleaned off from the connections. Have them to see if it is possible for the water leak to reach the area of the fuse box, if not, then the problem could be in another area of wire connections. I think you need to check in this area to solve your problem. Good luck, I hope this leads to a solution.
I am assuming there is a sensor on the relay switch that detects a signal from the remote control. And I am assuming it uses the battery to power the sensor. It may not be much but assuming it is on all the time it could possibly run your battery down over time... might check into that ..
@PrivateOrdover other commented before about you concerns. I created a video demonstrating current reading for when the vehicle is in the stored condition. Current is very small as you will see. Here is link to my video. th-cam.com/video/ChfZ5gRIxag/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HYOhPp5HuQ3Li9bn
@Tripledigits, that is the current rating. 500a is 500 Amp rating. This would only come in when you are starting the car. Starters take a lot of current for about 2 sec. You will be fine with your car.
So, after installing on the vehicle can you leave it on (not disconnected) for whatever time, and only disconnect when parking in the street? I have a garage and the car is in it most of the time only seldom parked on the street.Also it's a 5.5 engine, will it be able to crank the car , or would I need a 500 amp one?
What is the range of the remote control? More important, when the battery in the remote control wears out or goes down can I then replace the battery and what kind of a battery does the remote control use? Shurly the battery in the two included remote controlled swithces can be replaced or does the whole unit become a throw away unit and have to buy another new unit.
Just tried to install on a 2020 Tundra, relay would not allow any power through and only “clicked” with off button fob. Double checked every connection, still no love. Removed device and started as usual. Maybe I got a bad relay? I’ll return this one and try again.
@XRakkgruntX, ok, here is what you need to do. Put the relay on your workbench have 12+ and 12- available to connect to the power leads for the relay, red and black. Put a volt ohm meter leads across the nuted terminal. You are checking for continuity, click the remote to on, you should hear a click at the relay. Look at the ohm meter, you should get a change reading. If you do not get a change, the relay is not working.. the remote is working if you hear the click. That is the only trouble this can be. Good luck
@jamesbarlowjr.3762. You need to purchase a set of post and a set of post connectors. That is how you adapt side mount to post mount. Look thru the comments and you will see a product link for them. Or just google the products.
I don't think it is a problem. It is like a PC, you power it down and power it up all the time. For some people that have battery drain, this is the answer to the problem, installing the battery disconnect. I have not hear of anyone reporting that their vehicle was messed up from use of this product. Now I have heard that sometime the vehicle has to learn some some driving features and this is only a short period of time and all is good. You have to weigh the benefits verses the ECM being shut down daily.
The difference is 50 amps. Go with the 250amp. More current is better for starting the car. That is the time you draw the most current. For only about 2 or3sec. Good luck.
So I don’t know much about cars and I have battery problems that I haven’t been able to trace. All my fuses are good and the battery is new yet it does die if I let it sit for a couple of days. I looked this up and see some for 200 amp and 250 amp but honestly I have no idea what that means. Which is best for what? Which should I go for? I have a 2000 Nissan pathfinder
@RaulGarcia-jp2vn. This product will keep your battery fully charged. Get the 250 amp model. This refers to the amount of current it is designed to conduct. You only need high current when yo have the starter in operation. Most cars will start within 2 sec. The rest of the time much lower current. You will be happy as this is the answer to your problem.
Hey Sam! great idea I am buying one! Can you tell me what the stickers say that label the three large battery cables on the side of the power distribution box? I know one says chassis but the other two on my 2003 Pace Arrow are wore off
@@samowens44 I hope I don't need an alternator upgrade then. I just upgraded to 4 Fullriver DC250-6 batteries. I had to redo all the lines to the inverter because they were corroded. On the very back of your RV, where there is that compartment door that folds down (next to license plate), what is behind that door?
@@samowens44 Hi Sam. Do you know what wires off the generator that it uses to charge the batteries? I want to add in a separate 12v battery that is in a circuit by itself. If the house batteries die, then I have a 12v backup battery.
I have a question, can I connect fuse block to motorcycle kill switch and use it for accessories only ..Instead of tapping into the motorcycle wiring I can go straight to the battery and switch it off when not used ??
Yes, this is a relay and it's job is to interrupt power. You can hook it into accessory power lead and operate the relay to disconnect the power when you want. Now, this is not a kill switch relay. When the engine is running, the alternator puts out a 14volt charging voltage, the relay had detection circuitry that detects this and will not disconnect the power. The only time the relay will disconnect is when the engine is off. It would be dangers to kill the power while you are driving a car and all airbags, safety equipment, fuel pump and everything else would go out. That is why it is not a kill switch.
@@samowens44 ok , so disregard using the kill switch to kill bike power. What if I take the kill switch and connect a fuse block to it and then connect that to the battery,. At that point connect all accessories to the fuse block instead of tapping into a wire . Now if I hit the off button on the key chain all the accessories will cut off preventing it from draining the battery? That's the best way I can explain it lol I'm only thinking about not tapping into wires, and using a remote on and off switch for the accessories. Is that possible?
@@illegal_opinions yes you can use the relay the way you describe. Only when the engine is not running due to the charging voltage on the battery will not allow relay to turn off. Actually you should just get a basic relay with a remote control. This is really the wrong relay for the purpose you want. That is why I explained how it works. A regular relay does not stop you from releasing the relay even with engine running.
@@samowens44 this 150cc doesn't have a relay . I w looked at what a relay is and I see nothing that looks like it , that's why I decided to ask about the fuse block and kill switch .
@@illegal_opinionshere is a relay that will work for what you want. Go to Amazon.com . Enter this product number B0899M5Z8D INTO SEARCH BOX. That is the relay you need. Has remote also. Put power from bat pod and neg to first two terminals. The third terminal switches pos on and off. Grd does not switch, just passes through. You only need grd if the circuit requires a grd.
Hi Sam, I have a 1992 GMC Sonoma SLE. My post connects are in the back of the battery and screw on. I did see you install the connection to your RV but my post are flat. I need a kill switch as they have been stealing a lot of cars lately. Will this work for my vehicle, as I will have to disconnect it every night. Will you recommend another kill switch if this is not a good one to get. Thank in advance for you answer.
You can install this on your battery, but you must get an adapter to get a round post on the battery and another adapter to connect to the screw in cable that connected to the battery. I know this is a lot, but they are not expensive and it is the only way you can use this Disconnect Switch. I will give you the links to both adapters. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060YI0S4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OXT7X4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You only need one of each. If the grd term is to be connected, use the round grd and the ground connector. You will not use the other set for Pos. Just disconnect the grd cable from your battery, screw in the round grd terminal The relay will connect to the new round terminal and the round terminal on the disconnect relay will connect to the grd cable new connector that you screw on to the cable screw. Hope this helps you.
Thank you for the fast reply. I will order it and will follow the instructions you have give me. Thanks for the links and your help. ☺Thanks again.@@samowens44
Hi i was wondering did you say you can't switch up the relay while the engine is running? Cause I bought a cheap $45 ebay one and I can turn it off while the engine is running. Also I have power drain from my car so I'm needing a really good one. If u can let know. That be great. Thanks.
@xrtmny I think it could be dangerous to be able to kill power while engine is running and you are driving. You would loose all power for air bags, power brakes, power steering and lights and if at night, well you can see. The relay is operated to connect power, the relay releases to disconnect power. The battery disconnect switch does draw a small amount of current. You will need to check battery voltage when you operate the remote to switch the battery off. Say the voltage is 12.5 volts. Watch how long the battery voltage gets to 11.0 volts. Below 11 volts you can begin to see starting issues. That is the time to require charging the battery. Could be 6 months, could be two months, I don’t know. So just do that test and you will know for sure. Good luck!
Hi thanks for getting back to me. Yeah it's not good to be able to turn it off while the engine is running. It runs on alternator power but everything flickers. I went on ebay and only buy the same as yours from the states and will cost $135 including postage. I'm guessing that's good? Thanks
@rajeevzoysa5092. yes, this can adapt to just about anything you want to disconnect power. If the terminals fit, or just adapt to the connection you need. Remember, you can not have little wires connecting to the battery as this has to power up the vehicle when the vehicle is running and starting.
@@samowens44 I can install it on either the positive or negative post, correct Sam? Because I don't have a lot of space on my negative it will be easier on the front Positive.
Took one of these to my 71 K5 Blazer and it killed the battery with in 24 hours. The problem is the control box is always powered. Do you have the same problem?
@poolman8676 I created a video for the relay to demonstrate how much drain on the battery. Very little when you have the car parked for the night and the remote off button pushed. Find it on my TH-cam channel.
If you mount the relay as designed on the battery post, then you can not have the battery and relay in a location that can not be accessed. If the relay craps out and will not operate, then you will need to remove relay and connect back up as original or get another relay product. One way to solve the problem is to mount relay outside the trunk connected to the wire that goes to the battery in the trunk. If relay craps out you can short the terminals that the relay would have closed the contacts for the terminal to have the battery operate what it is connected too.
Yes it will shut ECU down and it will need to reboot. It should boot back up to conditions previously stored. Some things need relearning from operation of the vehicle. There is a residual storage of battery voltage left in the ECU that should save most things. The only thing I can say is observe your cars performance and operation after using the relay and see if anything is noticeable different. Even the transmission has a computer control along with engine performance and even the climate control and all other features. Just observe and see if your car computer is able to restore back to your original operation. I feel you will not notice anything different, if you do, then you may want to disconnect and see if all works better. I have not had anyone to post that they had issues after using the Disconnect Relay.
hello my friend, your video is nice when it is off, this device says that it consumes 0.005A when it is on, what is its consumption??? because I want to put it in a solar panel inverter, when the battery goes down, it is enough to close the inverter remotely with this device so that the battery does not get too low, if you can tell me what the device's consumption is when it is working (on)
Just throwing this out there for those who want to use these kill switches as an antitheft deterrent. Wouldn't the thief be able to go under the hood and disassemble the relay and then hook up the battery in a normal fashion, and then proceed to hotwire your vehicle to steal it? I could see where it would be more time consuming but still possible to disable the relay and steal your vehicle anyway.
The relay is not operated while you drive, if you attempt to operate the relay with your remote, the relay will not operate as it has the alternator battery keeping the relay from operating. This relay is not a kill switch to kill the power under emergency. It is too dangerous to operate that type of connection for cars.
Yeah you don't want to use this on cars these days as killing all the power to car's is not good for today's car computers as every time you kill all the power the computers have to go back and relearn a bunch of functions. Your better off using it between the battery and the starter so it only prevents the starter from going and doesn't kill power to the car's computer..
@@samowens44 Thanks, I think I will go with a Solar charger in window or dash. Mother in law rarely drives her car and battery discharges in cold weather.
@anthonyh88 Make sure you are not operating the relay when you store it. You should push the off button and the relay will deactivate and there is only a very small current drain. If you leave the relay operated the relay will be operated and it will drain your battery. You are supose to go to off. You can not turn anything on in the vehicle when it is stored correctly.
Unless you put a small fused jumper wire your electronics will turn off every time also erasing radios and such. Otherwise I like it. Also, the Chinese now have control of your vehicle.
@genemiller6789 I agree with you, some of the features of your vehicle will loose their stored program selections. There are always side effects with anything you change in vehicles and life. This is one of the side effects. There is no way around it, unless you want to wire a fused jumper to the key features, like the radio, to maintain the power, but, you have defeated one of the features of the disconnect relay. Some people put this device on their vehicle due to a power drain problem. This is the cheapest and best solution for that type problem. People pay hundreds of dollars for repair shops to try to find a power drain that kills their battery over night. Good luck on this unless you are a dedicated tech and will go the extra mile to measure current drain with a meter on each fuse. Good luck on finding him. Now, if you have a current drain problem and your battery is dead every morning, this is the answer for you. You probably do not care if the radio has to be reset, you can start your car in the morning. It is a mater of importance for what you are trying to accomplish. Gene, I just wanted to explain about this, you are right for the people that want security, this is a pain in the ass. I totally agree. You have the solution with the jumper wire if not other problems. Good luck, now you know the rest of the story!
That does not mean your starter draws 800 Amps, that is the capacity of the Battery. That is how much it can store. Also, you only have high current to the starter for about 1 to 2 seconds. It works just fine. The Starter is the one part of the car that has a higher current draw and only for the brief time to start the car.
I reviewed the video and thought I had covered all details and explained each part. Sorry you could not see anything. I would be happy to explain and possibly publish a photo of the detail you are not able to see. Let me know by telling me the frame time location of area.
It's just that the video was shot from far enough away that we can't see the details of what you're doing on the device itself when you're putting it together.
@@kendalllaine7608 Now, do you have the side mount terminals or the battery post on top of battery. The relay does not come with any directions for installing to a battery with side mounts. I was demonstrating what you need to do to convert a side mount battery to a post set up. I guess I need to create a separate video showing details of side mount conversion. That is another product and Amazon does not allow to feature two products in a video. What part did you need to see better. This product was meant for a side battery post mount connection. They did not provide the adapters to all for connection to the side terminals. I just did that to show how it could be done. I watch video on my computer with a big screen. If you are watching on a smart phone. That may be the problem not see enough. I need to know the part that you don't see that you need to understand the connections.
The manufacturer of this remote battery disconnect switch clearly states that the relay is rated for a maximum of 250 amps and is only suitable for combustion engines, gas or diesel, up to 2.5 liter size. Most starter batteries used on cold climates are rated for 650 to 800 cranking amps and I would assume your RV has an engine larger than 2.5 liters. Combine these issues with a Chinese electronic remote, of questionable quality. and I don't think this product is a viable "kill switch" for North American vehicles.
@chrisgraham2904 I need to add an important fact to your comment. Yes, this product would not work if you had the starter motor running the whole time you are driving and drawing 600 plus amps. But the fact is, in the process of starting fuel injected engines of modern times, a motor only needs to crank over for 1 sec and it starts, as my RV only took 1 sec to start. This is part of the engineering that goes into a product such as this. Even if it took 2 or 3 seconds, I don't think this would be a problem. As the engine is running it is drawing well within the limits of the relay. I thank you for bringing the current ratings into discussion and it is good to know, and I don't think the starter would draw the full potential of the 600amp within 1 sec. For the product to fail, the contacts of the relay would have to heat up and melt, that would loose contact and the circuit would open and stop all current flow. Just can not happen within the starting process. That would just stop the starter from turning. Cars have computers on them that will not let a starter just crank away, it just will not allow the starter to even turn unless the engine can start through all the sensors checks.
@@samowens44 Thanks for the follow up. By stating the relay's limitations, the manufacturer is probably just covering their liability. People are obviously installing these units and I don't see people in the comments listing failures. I would also suspect that the relay would have less issue when installed on the negative (ground side) of the battery, rather than on the positive (draw side) of the battery. The average driver will likely able and disable the relay with the remote between five to six thousand times per year, so the remote needs to be of dependable quality. Does disconnecting the battery every time you turn off your vehicle not reset the ECM (Engine Control Module) to factory settings, which would require the relearning process, deletion of any codes in computers and having to reset the vehicle's clock?
@@chrisgraham2904 You are correct, liability is big, I feel, most product are engineered with 2 or 3 times the stated specs. Anyway, not sure on the ECU going through a re-learning after power is removed. I don't think this will be a problem, most software has a set-up time, I feel, there would be no point in the software going through re-learning, once it got the initial set.
😮It takes a person with a good heart to say “I am sorry”. Just remember, always treat others as you would have them treat you. Now, you have a great day.
Yes new cars have much more features that require learning to get back to full operation. This product works best for older cars and have issues with battery drain. Sometimes it is too hard or expensive to find the drain issue. This would be the main use and older cars can be stolen easier. I really don’t think a new car owner needs this hooked up.
@sharmarran01, thanks for your comment. You must have found things you do not understand about the product. If you have a question, I will gladly explain the parts that lead you to your comment. I produce my video to help people understand a product. My efforts must have fallen short for you. Please respond with something I may be able to explain in a way that helps you.
@mg8718, what type of failure have you seen. How many have you tested and is the failure the relay or the remote control. What are the conditions of failure also, is it cold or heat issues. I have not had anyone to comment that their relay failed in any way. Most people discover this relay will help with current drain issues in their car or vehicle that leaves the battery dead or not able to start the car. It is really a great device for the older cars that don't have all the fancy self driving, self parking, accident avoidance features. The relay will cause the computer to have to relearn the feature parameters or driving parameters. Older card do not have all these type of features and it will work well. Also, the new cars have A "CAN" data system which monitors everything like current drain, so you should not need this as the problem can be found easily with the auto repair place diagnostic tools. Also this is not a kill switch that some people believe it to be. You can not shut the engine down while the engine is running. The charging system of the car keeps the voltage of the battery above the 12.6v of a idle battery. 14volts is the charging rate normally. The remote is programed that the engine is running and it is dangerous to shut the vehicle down. You would loose all air bag safety, fuel injection, transmission control, Power brakes, power steering, in other ways, you are out of control at a bad time in traffic. Now I would like you to elaborate as I have, to you statement, so we can learn something about the failures you mention. It would be helpful if you have some details. Thanks for your comment, but we need more information about the failures.
@jeffneis553 Sorry my video was a bad experience for you. To help you understand the concept and installation of the Battery Disconnect Switch, I have created a special video just for you and hope it will help others that experienced you disappointing video view. Here is a video link on my google drive. If you have any questions, I will be happy to address them until you are clear about the product installation. drive.google.com/file/d/13o2NUnYsfqrZNc-T1ASSdrRzkc3mksYV/view?usp=sharing
Sorry to hear I wasted your time. This is just a simple relay that you connect to one terminal of the battery and connect the lead you take off the terminal, to the other terminal of the relay. When you operate the remote, contacts close in relay, this connects the battery to the lead that goes to the car. Power is restored. Push the other button on remote and it removes the power.
I bought a different brand with terrible instructions. Your video saved the day. 😅
Awesome. Wife has a parasite drain. And her car does too. Hopefully I can get her to push this button when she gets out. Nice work.
I had a parasitic draw on my 08 Azera and my mechanic said it would likely be over 1000$ to go through and find and fix it where as the kill switch was 30$ and 60$ in lahbor. Works for me so far.
Awesome video... He knows what he's doing.
Thanks 👍
Very informative. Way better than the instructions I got with mine. However the two together helped me figure it out. Thanks!!!
Now i understand. Universal Mains Pass though for only 1 WIRE. You Must choose what wire to break. Either break the Negative battery wire or CHOOSE to Break the line of the Positive. This relay is a current pass through for ONE wire only! Got it!
Yes you got it!
Great video Sam you've answered all of my questions. Thank You so much!
Keep in mind.... 250A is well below the CCA for even a small truck, especially in the colder parts of the world!
Look at fuel pump disconnect relays.
What do you mean by CCA? Does that stand for continuous amps?
What do you mean by CCA? Does that stand for continuous amps? I have an old small Nissan pickup I was thinking about installing this on.
@@mxcollin95
CCA = *C* old; *C* ranking; *A* amps
One should find that rating on the battery.
In the colder areas where I've lived that rating is very obvious on the battery label and often on the store-shelf; (Warmer areas don't put as much emphasis on this rating so it's hardly ever on the shelf but still on the batter itself).
@@zpvnrt Most vehicles starter motors have their own earth strap to the chassis of the car, only the positive terminal needs to be rated to the cca of the starter.
@@craigmcqueen6315 Everything connected to the path of the current draw needs to be rated to the CCA - "Ask Me How I Know!" - No, I'll save you the hassle: I put in a cut-out relay between the positive and the starter as the starter on my vehicle is grounded thru the engine block. Power side of the relay was rated for 2x the DC voltage and the standard amp; however, not for the CCA - blew the power sided apart and started it on fire. Learn from my mistakes - One, FUSE THE RELAY and Two, make sure it's rated for more than the maximum anticipated current draw.
Damn !!! thanks a lot for this video. I spend $500 on 2 mechanics them guys trying to figure out what's the cause of draining my battery , them idiots didn't fix the problem. In desperation I tuned in to TH-cam to solve the problem myself until I stumbled upon this video among a handful. I bought from a amazon the same brand featured in this video and my problem was solved for $40. Those freaking mechanics are crooks if not idiots. Again thanks for posting this video 😀.......
@antoinefigafetta6405 yes, I agree, current drain is a problem for lots. Easy solution, Battery Disconnect Switch. Glad you found me.
Thank you for the video, I was going to try installing a fuel pump relay but this seems so much easier
Yes this relay is designed for the Battery. Fuel pump relay can not take the current I don’t believe.
@@samowens44 yeah and I would have to make a hole in my car then take off my whole dash and I just don’t feel like doing that lol thank you
Bought it through your link. Thank you
Thank you so much!!
Mine was shipped without the manual. Fortunately I came across your video.Your instructions were very easy to understand, even for someone like me who is not super-knowledgeable about vehicle mechanics.
Subscribing now and looking forward to more how-tos 👍
I make all my video for the person with limited or no knowledge about subjects covered. Thanks for comments.
Thanks for explain u too Kind Man
I installed it on my 2008 nissan xterra
Its working fine
Just it resets the setting of my car due to power Disconnection
I think this device is good to use once a while.
Yes car computers will loose some settings. There is a trade off for security.
@@samowens44
I'm trying to install it to the starter. So this way. We are disabling enabling the starter
@shadiAdwarMousa that would work, there would be no interruption of power to computer. Then no loss of settings. You on to a solution. Good thinking.
@@ShadiAdwarMousa Successful? If so, how did you do it? Thanks!
Thank you!! Have the exact same one. Will install soon.
Great video but I’m still confused, all leads disconnected from negative, relay fitted to negative: red positive fitted to battery positive. Where do the leads taken off the battery negative fix to
Could you do Video on Locking up the HOOD [with Cable/chain so that no one can get in and Hot Wire the system ? Thanks
would the installed relay drain the battery? what is the current draw did you measure? thanks
I created a video actually demonstrating the current drain. Look for it on my channel.
Thanks, I got a tiny little manual, was near impossible to understand, no pictures of actual unit. Watching your vid helps a lot. Still not sure what the big copper connecter and red runbber cap was.
I demonstrate how that Copper Connecter goes between the terminal of the relay and the battery clamp terminal in my video, not sure what you mean about the cap.
I got it now. I was talking about the red rubber cap. @@samowens44
nice i like this i want it on my classic car and daily driver but it would have been better if you could hide the box for security against theft and maybe have it on bluetooth where you can read battery health and have the key fob
@Reodorf1 you could hide the relay, but would require extra wiring.
So you have to run all extra wires to the relay and run only one to the batteries? To cut the power I’m lost I bought one I don’t want to messed it up
@babayagagaming4691 to help you with wiring the relay, here is a short video I made for someone else that was not sure. The black & red wires go to the battery pod & Neg terminals. Watch the video. I explain it in detail. Good luck. drive.google.com/file/d/13o2NUnYsfqrZNc-T1ASSdrRzkc3mksYV/view?usp=drivesdk
I think I’m going to try this on my second battery in our SUV, I want to set it up as an aux. battery to use for lights, fridge, stereo etc. I should be able to disconnect the second battery from the main battery with the click of a switch instead of having to open and close the hood all the time. Do you think it would work well for this ??
It should.
Thank you for the video. Ultimately are you happy with your purchase? I read the reviews and it seems people either loved it or others said it stopped working after a month or two.
Or it drained their battery
you mentioned this is good for older vehicles. Would a 1996 suv be able to handle connecting and disconnecting?
It will work with any standard size battery, they is what it is designed to work with. It disconnects the battery from your vehicle with a remote control. Then it will connect it back with a push of the remote control. It really does not car what car is attached
Hi fitting one of these will you lose your radio power and anything else that needs power to work like alarm.
@garyedwards1184 the battery disconnect does completely disconnect the battery from the car. Anything on the car that requires power will loose it. Most radios you will not loose the stations, but you could loose other things, alarms. There is a side effect to everything you do to make changes to a car. Install it and see how it goes. Easy to disconnect if too much change.
Question. These won't necessarily fry the computers will they? All i'd have to really worry about is reseting my settings each time? Because if thats the case i dont mind having to do that each time.
No, it will not harm the computer. You will just have to see what needs resetting.
@@samowens44 gotcha. Thank you for the reply!
howdy, the disconnect switch on the negative side, do you leave the original negative cable off
thx
You need the original neg lead. If you connect the relay to neg side, you connect the neg terminal to the relay and the other side connects to the neg battery post. The relay becomes a switch to add the battery or take it away.
@@samowens44 thx for the information
Is it a good idea to keep this on a car that's unused for a long time? Anything with a remote drains battery passively over trine to enable the remote switch to remain active and ready
@laurinantonio7948, there is a small drain on the battery, not sure how long it would take to drain the battery down below the point to start. Check the battery voltage when it gets down to 11 volts, you are at a point you need to charge the battery. If it gets into the 10 volts area, you could have a starting problem. But, you just monitor and charger up as needed.
I've tested the current draw with a bench top psu. Off draws 9mA and On draws 250mA. Lead acid self discharge is way larger than the current this gizmo draws in the off position.
Wonder if it work with side post that screw in to battery
Yes, My RV has side mount screw on connection. I tell about getting Post and Connectors adapters to convert the side to post connection. Just listen and watch me. Watch the whole video.
I got one and it works great but don’t works at 15 degrees and below so don’t use at them temperature
Yes, always check operating temps for all equipment. This product has the limits posted in products specs.
Thanks for your video very helpful
This device will help people that have a power drain that can not be found. Repair shops have problems with this, as it takes a long time and lots of luck to find. Best solution, Battery Disconnect switch. Thanks for liking my video.
Very good tutorial. Thanks.
Excellent video Sam. Great idea and device. I noticed your battery position is very close to the grill. The relay device appears to be very exposed to the elements ( Rain, Snow, Airflow, cold ) Have you experienced any problems since installation ?
@larrywheatley9444 the relay is totally sealed, no problem with weather, the only way to design a device like this. My video was to demonstrate how the relay worked and how to install. I did not drive with it as I sold my RV shortly after that. The Relay has a simple task, remove the battery connection with remote operation and restore when ready. One of the primary uses for a relay device like this is when you have a current drain overnight and it leaves the battery too low to start. Hard to find and expensive to have auto shop find the problem. This is the low cost solution to the problem. I must say that it is not idea for the new cars with all kinds of AI features and self driving and collision avoidance. High tech software features. It is for the older cars that the big features are electric seats and windows and maybe the electric antenna. The Relay is great when you need to store the vehicle for a period of time for travel. This can work for the new cars also, in that the main problem with new cars is that the software needs time of driving to relearn conditions of driving to set the parameters for proper operations. This is why it is not best for new cars on a daily basis. Plus new cars have software to detect current drains in the system and report the location. I know I went outside the bounds of your question, but this is an opportunity to explain to others the purpose of this relay and limitations. Good Luck!
@@samowens44 Hi Sam... Thank you for the quick reply. Its a very comprehensive and informative response. I can certainly see the benefits of its use. I have a 1999 P38 Range Rover 2.5 DSE. Battery drain is a common fault with the P38 due to the onboard computers waking up from outside radio wave sources and draining the battery. The only issue I can see with effectively disconnecting the battery on the P38 is this... All windows and sun roof would have to be reset each time. I will look into this further to see if that issue could be resolved. Thanks again... Larry Leicester UK.
I’m wanting to connect one to the power side of my electric fans in my Javelin. How would I wire it to this to shut off only the fans? I’m assuming I’d take the main power from the battery and put it somewhere on this relay instead?
@FasterNLouder on the relay there are two lugs with nuts. This is your switch contacts. When the relay is off the contacts are closed and with power lead on one lug it will pass to the other lug and onto the fan. When you operate relay with remote, the lugs open the contact and the fan will no longer get power. That simple. The black and red leads from the relay need to have Pos and Grd on them to power the relay.
@@samowens44 the way that I’m understanding this, is that I would have to run the main ground for my fan relays to this disconnect relay and leave everything else on the negative post of the battery. The other option would be running the main power for the fans to this relay and then attaching it to the positive post of the battery with everything else still connected to the positive post of the battery like normal.
@@FasterNLouder I drew a wiring diagram to help you and any others. Hope this will tell the story. Remember the frame of car is your ground connection to the battery, so you can use it for the grd wire.
drive.google.com/file/d/18_ue8FG1ms2g5dHqCOFI4HCP6zkr73XG/view?usp=sharing
Asking another question, if you have time to answer. On the Chevy HHRs, on mine anyway, there is a panel under the windshield wiper on the passenger side, that will leak over time, and cause the passenger floor board to get wet. I thought the windshield seal was leaking, called safelite back after they had installed the windshield, and the man showed me the panel under the windshield wiper panel (all i know to call it) and the area under the windshield wiper panel had the cover come off, and this was what was leaking water into my car floor board. He taped it up for me, and not long after that my blower motor stopped working, and we had to put in a new blower motor. Could the blower motor being hooked up not quite right cause a power drain on my battery? It blows hot air, but sounds a bit muffled (could be a dirty cabin filter?) or could some of the circuits have gotten wet from the leak, and causing a power drain? My radio does not work, I've put in a new fuse, nothing. Turn signals do not make noise. Nothing. Every now and then i hear a faint chime when I put my foot on the door close button and take it off. (with the door open of course) I have not been able to drive my car for several years because of the battery drain. Although when i jump it, it takes a while, but it starts. I have drove it about five miles not long ago, but just don't know what to expect from it, so I don't go far with it. Any ideas? I can't afford a mechanic. That's why i was looking at battery disconnect switches. Shew weee that's a lot of typing. I have no mechanical skills what so ever. Thanks for reading.
@darcyannewton-staley3987 I know how car troubles can really cause you stress. If you did not have all the issues you describe before the water leak, then water is most likely cause of the problem. This is a real hard problem to find and solve as it would take a mechanic more time to find and I don't think he would want to take on the job. He would just first see if there is a fuse box in the area of the leak, if water gets into a fuse box it can cause connection problems due to corrosion in several circuits. Sometimes the fuse boxes are located in the glove compartment area behind a panel. This is a good area for the location of the leak area you described. Have someone to check this as your most likely trouble area, if the fuse box is there. Moisture once in electrical areas, it can grow in problems as corrosion will grow causing the problem to get worse. Have someone with technical ability to check this for you. will a strong light, have them to look at the fuse box for any signs of corrosion, it will have to be cleaned off from the connections. Have them to see if it is possible for the water leak to reach the area of the fuse box, if not, then the problem could be in another area of wire connections. I think you need to check in this area to solve your problem. Good luck, I hope this leads to a solution.
@@samowens44 thank you for your response. It is appreciated.
Thank you
What is range of the remot controle?.
Not sure of full range. 20 ft for sure.
I am assuming there is a sensor on the relay switch that detects a signal from the remote control. And I am assuming it uses the battery to power the sensor. It may not be much but assuming it is on all the time it could possibly run your battery down over time... might check into that ..
@PrivateOrdover other commented before about you concerns. I created a video demonstrating current reading for when the vehicle is in the stored condition. Current is very small as you will see. Here is link to my video. th-cam.com/video/ChfZ5gRIxag/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HYOhPp5HuQ3Li9bn
Yeh, while a lot of these have 4 to 5 star reviews, I always read the 1 and 2's and they were complaining it eventually ran their batteries down...
My Ford truck has two batteries do I need two switches or will 1 be suffice
You only need one relay.
Very nice, thx bro!
What is the difference between the 250a and 500a because I have a hellcat. Does it matter if I have a Hellcat?
@Tripledigits, that is the current rating. 500a is 500 Amp rating. This would only come in when you are starting the car. Starters take a lot of current for about 2 sec. You will be fine with your car.
Hows your car doing with it?
@@jonathangutierrez7703 ok
So, after installing on the vehicle can you leave it on (not disconnected) for whatever time, and only disconnect when parking in the street? I have a garage and the car is in it most of the time only seldom parked on the street.Also it's a 5.5 engine, will it be able to crank the car , or would I need a 500 amp one?
All will be fine, just install and use.
What is the range of the remote control? More important, when the battery in the remote control wears out or goes down can I then replace the battery and what kind of a battery does the remote control use? Shurly the battery in the two included remote controlled swithces can be replaced or does the whole unit become a throw away unit and have to buy another new unit.
The relay has no battery. It gets its power from the Battery in the car. Remote will need a battery after a very long time.
Battery for remote, CR2032.
Battery replacement CR2032.
Just tried to install on a 2020 Tundra, relay would not allow any power through and only “clicked” with off button fob. Double checked every connection, still no love. Removed device and started as usual. Maybe I got a bad relay? I’ll return this one and try again.
@XRakkgruntX, ok, here is what you need to do. Put the relay on your workbench have 12+ and 12- available to connect to the power leads for the relay, red and black. Put a volt ohm meter leads across the nuted terminal. You are checking for continuity, click the remote to on, you should hear a click at the relay. Look at the ohm meter, you should get a change reading. If you do not get a change, the relay is not working.. the remote is working if you hear the click. That is the only trouble this can be. Good luck
I’m guessing you used it on a side post so how did you get it to work. I went to the link you posted and it still looks like a top post. Thanks
@jamesbarlowjr.3762. You need to purchase a set of post and a set of post connectors. That is how you adapt side mount to post mount. Look thru the comments and you will see a product link for them. Or just google the products.
@@samowens44 Thanks Sir. I Appreciate You!
I am worried about the ECM messing up on my 2021 Ford F150. What is your opinion on that?
I don't think it is a problem. It is like a PC, you power it down and power it up all the time. For some people that have battery drain, this is the answer to the problem, installing the battery disconnect. I have not hear of anyone reporting that their vehicle was messed up from use of this product. Now I have heard that sometime the vehicle has to learn some some driving features and this is only a short period of time and all is good. You have to weigh the benefits verses the ECM being shut down daily.
Does this work with any vehicle. I have a 2006 Chevy HHR. Constant battery drain/parasitic draw, can't figure out where it's coming from. Thank you.
Yes, anything with a battery to operate a vehicle.
Great video thank you
hello, im undecided on which relay to get since there’s two. What is the difference between getting the 200amp kit vs 250amp kit?
The difference is 50 amps. Go with the 250amp. More current is better for starting the car. That is the time you draw the most current. For only about 2 or3sec. Good luck.
Battery life of the remote control?
Long time. Only uses power when you push a button.
So I don’t know much about cars and I have battery problems that I haven’t been able to trace. All my fuses are good and the battery is new yet it does die if I let it sit for a couple of days. I looked this up and see some for 200 amp and 250 amp but honestly I have no idea what that means. Which is best for what? Which should I go for? I have a 2000 Nissan pathfinder
@RaulGarcia-jp2vn. This product will keep your battery fully charged. Get the 250 amp model. This refers to the amount of current it is designed to conduct. You only need high current when yo have the starter in operation. Most cars will start within 2 sec. The rest of the time much lower current. You will be happy as this is the answer to your problem.
@@samowens44 thank you so much I really appreciate you!
my f250 has two batteries would that mean i need two of these to be able to have it kill the battery?
@jp3679 depends if they are 6 volt and connected together to make 12volts, no. If they are separate 12volt batteries, yes one for each.
Hey Sam! great idea I am buying one! Can you tell me what the stickers say that label the three large battery cables on the side of the power distribution box? I know one says chassis but the other two on my 2003 Pace Arrow are wore off
The other two are Coach and generator. Check for voltage and that will be coach cable.
@@samowens44 so the alternator also charges the coach batteries?
@@glennjames9152 yes.
@@samowens44 I hope I don't need an alternator upgrade then. I just upgraded to 4 Fullriver DC250-6 batteries. I had to redo all the lines to the inverter because they were corroded. On the very back of your RV, where there is that compartment door that folds down (next to license plate), what is behind that door?
@@samowens44 Hi Sam. Do you know what wires off the generator that it uses to charge the batteries? I want to add in a separate 12v battery that is in a circuit by itself. If the house batteries die, then I have a 12v backup battery.
I have a question, can I connect fuse block to motorcycle kill switch and use it for accessories only ..Instead of tapping into the motorcycle wiring I can go straight to the battery and switch it off when not used ??
Yes, this is a relay and it's job is to interrupt power. You can hook it into accessory power lead and operate the relay to disconnect the power when you want. Now, this is not a kill switch relay. When the engine is running, the alternator puts out a 14volt charging voltage, the relay had detection circuitry that detects this and will not disconnect the power. The only time the relay will disconnect is when the engine is off. It would be dangers to kill the power while you are driving a car and all airbags, safety equipment, fuel pump and everything else would go out. That is why it is not a kill switch.
@@samowens44 ok , so disregard using the kill switch to kill bike power. What if I take the kill switch and connect a fuse block to it and then connect that to the battery,. At that point connect all accessories to the fuse block instead of tapping into a wire . Now if I hit the off button on the key chain all the accessories will cut off preventing it from draining the battery? That's the best way I can explain it lol I'm only thinking about not tapping into wires, and using a remote on and off switch for the accessories. Is that possible?
@@illegal_opinions yes you can use the relay the way you describe. Only when the engine is not running due to the charging voltage on the battery will not allow relay to turn off. Actually you should just get a basic relay with a remote control. This is really the wrong relay for the purpose you want. That is why I explained how it works. A regular relay does not stop you from releasing the relay even with engine running.
@@samowens44 this 150cc doesn't have a relay . I w looked at what a relay is and I see nothing that looks like it , that's why I decided to ask about the fuse block and kill switch .
@@illegal_opinionshere is a relay that will work for what you want. Go to Amazon.com . Enter this product number B0899M5Z8D INTO SEARCH BOX. That is the relay you need. Has remote also. Put power from bat pod and neg to first two terminals. The third terminal switches pos on and off. Grd does not switch, just passes through. You only need grd if the circuit requires a grd.
Hi Sam, I have a 1992 GMC Sonoma SLE. My post connects are in the back of the battery and screw on. I did see you install the connection to your RV but my post are flat. I need a kill switch as they have been stealing a lot of cars lately. Will this work for my vehicle, as I will have to disconnect it every night. Will you recommend another kill switch if this is not a good one to get. Thank in advance for you answer.
You can install this on your battery, but you must get an adapter to get a round post on the battery and another adapter to connect to the screw in cable that connected to the battery. I know this is a lot, but they are not expensive and it is the only way you can use this Disconnect Switch. I will give you the links to both adapters. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060YI0S4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OXT7X4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You only need one of each. If the grd term is to be connected, use the round grd and the ground connector. You will not use the other set for Pos. Just disconnect the grd cable from your battery, screw in the round grd terminal The relay will connect to the new round terminal and the round terminal on the disconnect relay will connect to the grd cable new connector that you screw on to the cable screw. Hope this helps you.
Thank you for the fast reply. I will order it and will follow the instructions you have give me. Thanks for the links and your help.
☺Thanks again.@@samowens44
I am sure if you follow the last instructions and watch my video again closely, you will have it working. Good luck.😊
Hi i was wondering did you say you can't switch up the relay while the engine is running?
Cause I bought a cheap $45 ebay one and I can turn it off while the engine is running.
Also I have power drain from my car so I'm needing a really good one. If u can let know. That be great. Thanks.
@xrtmny I think it could be dangerous to be able to kill power while engine is running and you are driving. You would loose all power for air bags, power brakes, power steering and lights and if at night, well you can see. The relay is operated to connect power, the relay releases to disconnect power. The battery disconnect switch does draw a small amount of current. You will need to check battery voltage when you operate the remote to switch the battery off. Say the voltage is 12.5 volts. Watch how long the battery voltage gets to 11.0 volts. Below 11 volts you can begin to see starting issues. That is the time to require charging the battery. Could be 6 months, could be two months, I don’t know. So just do that test and you will know for sure. Good luck!
Hi thanks for getting back to me.
Yeah it's not good to be able to turn it off while the engine is running. It runs on alternator power but everything flickers.
I went on ebay and only buy the same as yours from the states and will cost $135 including postage.
I'm guessing that's good?
Thanks
@@XRTMNY This is the Disconnect switch I have from Amazon, amzn.to/3Yl5hF3 it only cost $25
can we use it for motorbikes
@rajeevzoysa5092. yes, this can adapt to just about anything you want to disconnect power. If the terminals fit, or just adapt to the connection you need. Remember, you can not have little wires connecting to the battery as this has to power up the vehicle when the vehicle is running and starting.
So, with the isolation on, how long will take to depleat the battery from full?
I have a video I perform the current drain test. Look for it on my channel. Samowens44
@@samowens44 Nice one, cheers !
Where can I buy the screw on posts?
@@brianmckenzie1810 auto part stores.
@@samowens44 I can install it on either the positive or negative post, correct Sam?
Because I don't have a lot of space on my negative it will be easier on the front Positive.
@@brianmckenzie1810 yes, whatever terminal is best for your conditions.
@@samowens44 Thank you Sam.
Do you think it would work on 24v military Humvee?
The specs say it has a operation range of 12 - 48V
It should work for 24V.
Does it still work well since you purchased it ? Thank you great video ! Well done
It will serve you well to remove power from vehicle and re-apply as you want. Also, do it remotely with fab.
Took one of these to my 71 K5 Blazer and it killed the battery with in 24 hours. The problem is the control box is always powered. Do you have the same problem?
@poolman8676 I created a video for the relay to demonstrate how much drain on the battery. Very little when you have the car parked for the night and the remote off button pushed. Find it on my TH-cam channel.
If the battery is in a trunk with no manual opener, what happens if the relay 'craps out' in the disconnect mode? Thanks
If you mount the relay as designed on the battery post, then you can not have the battery and relay in a location that can not be accessed. If the relay craps out and will not operate, then you will need to remove relay and connect back up as original or get another relay product. One way to solve the problem is to mount relay outside the trunk connected to the wire that goes to the battery in the trunk. If relay craps out you can short the terminals that the relay would have closed the contacts for the terminal to have the battery operate what it is connected too.
@@samowens44 Thanks Sam. This seems like the way to go.
if used dayly it will reset your computer every time it's turned off? if so your computer will go crazy tryng to update won't it?
Yes it will shut ECU down and it will need to reboot. It should boot back up to conditions previously stored. Some things need relearning from operation of the vehicle. There is a residual storage of battery voltage left in the ECU that should save most things. The only thing I can say is observe your cars performance and operation after using the relay and see if anything is noticeable different. Even the transmission has a computer control along with engine performance and even the climate control and all other features. Just observe and see if your car computer is able to restore back to your original operation. I feel you will not notice anything different, if you do, then you may want to disconnect and see if all works better. I have not had anyone to post that they had issues after using the Disconnect Relay.
Thank you Sr.!!@@samowens44
hello my friend, your video is nice when it is off, this device says that it consumes 0.005A when it is on, what is its consumption??? because I want to put it in a solar panel inverter, when the battery goes down, it is enough to close the inverter remotely with this device so that the battery does not get too low, if you can tell me what the device's consumption is when it is working (on)
Sorry, I do not know the answer.
Just throwing this out there for those who want to use these kill switches as an antitheft deterrent. Wouldn't the thief be able to go under the hood and disassemble the relay and then hook up the battery in a normal fashion, and then proceed to hotwire your vehicle to steal it? I could see where it would be more time consuming but still possible to disable the relay and steal your vehicle anyway.
What if it malfunctions during driving in traffic on the freeway?
The relay is not operated while you drive, if you attempt to operate the relay with your remote, the relay will not operate as it has the alternator battery keeping the relay from operating. This relay is not a kill switch to kill the power under emergency. It is too dangerous to operate that type of connection for cars.
Yeah you don't want to use this on cars these days as killing all the power to car's is not good for today's car computers as every time you kill all the power the computers have to go back and relearn a bunch of functions. Your better off using it between the battery and the starter so it only prevents the starter from going and doesn't kill power to the car's computer..
Yes, this is best used on the older cars with not such high tech software.
I have a 2004 Infiniti G35. Should I Buy this?
@@samowens44I own A 2004 Infiniti G35. Should I buy this?
@@W00ckyystarter disabler is your best option, not this one.
Been using a manual disconnect on 2011 mk7 Ford Fiesta with no problems !
Wouldn’t this still have a parasitic draw while waiting on the remote?
Yes there is slight current drain. I tested this in another video, look it up on my channel.
@@samowens44 Thanks, I think I will go with a Solar charger in window or dash. Mother in law rarely drives her car and battery discharges in cold weather.
Put one onand it drained battery any ideas
@anthonyh88 Make sure you are not operating the relay when you store it. You should push the off button and the relay will deactivate and there is only a very small current drain. If you leave the relay operated the relay will be operated and it will drain your battery. You are supose to go to off. You can not turn anything on in the vehicle when it is stored correctly.
@@samowens44 thanks put 2 in two differents landcruisersone wasok other wouldnt start next day
Abbott Knoll
👍👍👍
Your instructions were very easy to understand
Unless you put a small fused jumper wire your electronics will turn off every time also erasing radios and such. Otherwise I like it. Also, the Chinese now have control of your vehicle.
@genemiller6789 I agree with you, some of the features of your vehicle will loose their stored program selections. There are always side effects with anything you change in vehicles and life. This is one of the side effects. There is no way around it, unless you want to wire a fused jumper to the key features, like the radio, to maintain the power, but, you have defeated one of the features of the disconnect relay. Some people put this device on their vehicle due to a power drain problem. This is the cheapest and best solution for that type problem. People pay hundreds of dollars for repair shops to try to find a power drain that kills their battery over night. Good luck on this unless you are a dedicated tech and will go the extra mile to measure current drain with a meter on each fuse. Good luck on finding him. Now, if you have a current drain problem and your battery is dead every morning, this is the answer for you. You probably do not care if the radio has to be reset, you can start your car in the morning. It is a mater of importance for what you are trying to accomplish. Gene, I just wanted to explain about this, you are right for the people that want security, this is a pain in the ass. I totally agree. You have the solution with the jumper wire if not other problems. Good luck, now you know the rest of the story!
@@samowens44 I’m gonna try it with a small jumper with just a 5amp fuse. Starting would pop it but it should keep the memory. Thanks.
@@Imwright720That can be a very good suggestions for others if loosing the radio setting is annoying. That should hold the radio powered up.
You're going to need a memory saver. Not expensive at all.
Where to get one?
Scot Kilmer has a video about it@@agentdoubleozero
200 amp ? Car batteries run 700 or 800 amp
That does not mean your starter draws 800 Amps, that is the capacity of the Battery. That is how much it can store. Also, you only have high current to the starter for about 1 to 2 seconds. It works just fine. The Starter is the one part of the car that has a higher current draw and only for the brief time to start the car.
We can't see anything 😢
I reviewed the video and thought I had covered all details and explained each part. Sorry you could not see anything. I would be happy to explain and possibly publish a photo of the detail you are not able to see. Let me know by telling me the frame time location of area.
It's just that the video was shot from far enough away that we can't see the details of what you're doing on the device itself when you're putting it together.
@@kendalllaine7608 Now, do you have the side mount terminals or the battery post on top of battery. The relay does not come with any directions for installing to a battery with side mounts. I was demonstrating what you need to do to convert a side mount battery to a post set up. I guess I need to create a separate video showing details of side mount conversion. That is another product and Amazon does not allow to feature two products in a video.
What part did you need to see better. This product was meant for a side battery post mount connection. They did not provide the adapters to all for connection to the side terminals. I just did that to show how it could be done. I watch video on my computer with a big screen. If you are watching on a smart phone. That may be the problem not see enough. I need to know the part that you don't see that you need to understand the connections.
The manufacturer of this remote battery disconnect switch clearly states that the relay is rated for a maximum of 250 amps and is only suitable for combustion engines, gas or diesel, up to 2.5 liter size. Most starter batteries used on cold climates are rated for 650 to 800 cranking amps and I would assume your RV has an engine larger than 2.5 liters. Combine these issues with a Chinese electronic remote, of questionable quality. and I don't think this product is a viable "kill switch" for North American vehicles.
@chrisgraham2904 I need to add an important fact to your comment. Yes, this product would not work if you had the starter motor running the whole time you are driving and drawing 600 plus amps. But the fact is, in the process of starting fuel injected engines of modern times, a motor only needs to crank over for 1 sec and it starts, as my RV only took 1 sec to start. This is part of the engineering that goes into a product such as this. Even if it took 2 or 3 seconds, I don't think this would be a problem. As the engine is running it is drawing well within the limits of the relay. I thank you for bringing the current ratings into discussion and it is good to know, and I don't think the starter would draw the full potential of the 600amp within 1 sec. For the product to fail, the contacts of the relay would have to heat up and melt, that would loose contact and the circuit would open and stop all current flow. Just can not happen within the starting process. That would just stop the starter from turning. Cars have computers on them that will not let a starter just crank away, it just will not allow the starter to even turn unless the engine can start through all the sensors checks.
@@samowens44 Thanks for the follow up.
By stating the relay's limitations, the manufacturer is probably just covering their liability. People are obviously installing these units and I don't see people in the comments listing failures. I would also suspect that the relay would have less issue when installed on the negative (ground side) of the battery, rather than on the positive (draw side) of the battery.
The average driver will likely able and disable the relay with the remote between five to six thousand times per year, so the remote needs to be of dependable quality.
Does disconnecting the battery every time you turn off your vehicle not reset the ECM (Engine Control Module) to factory settings, which would require the relearning process, deletion of any codes in computers and having to reset the vehicle's clock?
@@chrisgraham2904 You are correct, liability is big, I feel, most product are engineered with 2 or 3 times the stated specs. Anyway, not sure on the ECU going through a re-learning after power is removed. I don't think this will be a problem, most software has a set-up time, I feel, there would be no point in the software going through re-learning, once it got the initial set.
Your camera is way to far away, can’t see a thing
I apologize, I was kidding with you, I feel bad, I really don't mean to disrespect you, I hope you accept my apology.
😮It takes a person with a good heart to say “I am sorry”. Just remember, always treat others as you would have them treat you. Now, you have a great day.
If the Battery on new cars are disconnected it takes 30 minute to an hour for the Computer to reset itself
Yes new cars have much more features that require learning to get back to full operation. This product works best for older cars and have issues with battery drain. Sometimes it is too hard or expensive to find the drain issue. This would be the main use and older cars can be stolen easier. I really don’t think a new car owner needs this hooked up.
As with most of these videos, absolutely useless.
@sharmarran01, thanks for your comment. You must have found things you do not understand about the product. If you have a question, I will gladly explain the parts that lead you to your comment. I produce my video to help people understand a product. My efforts must have fallen short for you. Please respond with something I may be able to explain in a way that helps you.
Most of them are garbage. They simply fail.
@mg8718, what type of failure have you seen. How many have you tested and is the failure the relay or the remote control. What are the conditions of failure also, is it cold or heat issues. I have not had anyone to comment that their relay failed in any way. Most people discover this relay will help with current drain issues in their car or vehicle that leaves the battery dead or not able to start the car. It is really a great device for the older cars that don't have all the fancy self driving, self parking, accident avoidance features. The relay will cause the computer to have to relearn the feature parameters or driving parameters. Older card do not have all these type of features and it will work well. Also, the new cars have A "CAN" data system which monitors everything like current drain, so you should not need this as the problem can be found easily with the auto repair place diagnostic tools. Also this is not a kill switch that some people believe it to be. You can not shut the engine down while the engine is running. The charging system of the car keeps the voltage of the battery above the 12.6v of a idle battery. 14volts is the charging rate normally. The remote is programed that the engine is running and it is dangerous to shut the vehicle down. You would loose all air bag safety, fuel injection, transmission control, Power brakes, power steering, in other ways, you are out of control at a bad time in traffic. Now I would like you to elaborate as I have, to you statement, so we can learn something about the failures you mention. It would be helpful if you have some details. Thanks for your comment, but we need more information about the failures.
Ask Scotty Kilmer. @@samowens44
Terrible video too far away couldnt see anything.
@jeffneis553 Sorry my video was a bad experience for you. To help you understand the concept and installation of the Battery Disconnect Switch, I have created a special video just for you and hope it will help others that experienced you disappointing video view. Here is a video link on my google drive. If you have any questions, I will be happy to address them until you are clear about the product installation.
drive.google.com/file/d/13o2NUnYsfqrZNc-T1ASSdrRzkc3mksYV/view?usp=sharing
junk,not for me....
Why do you think anyone else cares or needs to know that?
You suck old man, you talk too much, and show little.
Sorry to hear I wasted your time. This is just a simple relay that you connect to one terminal of the battery and connect the lead you take off the terminal, to the other terminal of the relay. When you operate the remote, contacts close in relay, this connects the battery to the lead that goes to the car. Power is restored. Push the other button on remote and it removes the power.
I just bought one