I can't comment on other burners, sorry. I personally recommend the Razertip myself. It burns consistently, has a great range of tips, does the delicate work and the brutal work, (like bone burning). It's also got CSA,C/US (Canada and The States) and C'Tick cerification (Australia), and also meets all the european safety standards. It ticks all the safety and legal boxes.
This is the first time I have seen a bone burning video and I am impressed with how you turned a piece of bone (that we usually throw away after we eat the meat!) into a nice piece of art!
A good suggestion. We don't have that chain in Oz, but plenty of pet stores will have clean beef bones. You will still probably have to boil them though...there will be oil and fat in the bone despite not having flesh. Thanks.
This will be one that I will use for jewelry and Christmas ornaments. Thanks Sue.! Now I will also be able to buy these bones and make a set of runes.I can come up with all kinds of ideas now. Good think I bought a book for notes.
Thanks:) a variable temp pyrography (woodburning) power base and a small skew are pretty much you need for small burning like this. I'm afraid a soldering iron type pen probably wouldn't generate the heat or burn small enough lines. Glad you like it
Hi, I did reply to this before but TH-cam seemed to have scrubbed my comments. A ball tip won't burn a crisp line like a skew. For such small work I prefer to use a small skew. I do prefer the curved skew because I can access the hottest spot on the blade more easily compared to a straight blade...usually a third along the blade from the tip. The tip of this skew can also be used for stippling and tiny lines. (a Razertip 14S is my preference) The 7S and 1S are also good.
I know that, at least with bone carvings, that the bone will darken quite a bit over time to a brownish tone. Won't that be a problem by limiting the contrast between the burned lines and the background? Your work is beautifull, and actually quite breathtaking in the detail on such a small piece!
Sue, I am very impressed with your talent. I'm wondering where to get the burning too you use. What I have is extremely frustrating in the time it takes to use. I would love to be able to do the precise work you do on my bone handle walking sticks. Thanks, marcalan bonjourwalkingsticks
Many thanks Sue you`ve helped me a lot to understand the best attack . I do Deer antler and its basically the same tech-niches having to be followed of the best methods of burning of Bone.
Is burning on the beef bone similar to burning tagua nuts? I'm just getting started with tagua nuts. Do you have any videos like this while working on tagua nuts? Thanks! ...and keep up the great work. I love your pieces!
+michael mathews Not even remotely the same kind of burn, Michael. Bone is dry to burn on and requires a hot burn to make an impression. Tagua requires a more gentle heat and is oily to burn on. I'll put a tagua video on the list of upcoming TH-cam videos. Sue:)
Hi, can you recommend skew and shader tip for burning approx 1.5" drawings? I also burn on hardwood. Will a medium or small skew be better for a beginner looking for crisp lines on 1.5" drawings with light detail? My 1.5mm balltip is not crisp and I loose too much heat with it. Thank you.
I noticed in your comments you say you sell the woodburner is that just the tips or the whole kit? I'm looking for one similar to the one you use in this video but not sure where to look as they all seem to look like crappy soldering irons, I'm tying to get as close to the nib as a i can with my fingers so I can effectively draw with it! Cheers.
Hi Squish, I sell the burner I use and recommend, Razertip. (google Sue Walters) It has a power base and a huge range of tips. This system is called a wire tip burning system. The tips are either welded onto the pen body (Fixed tip pens), or attached to an interchangeable pen via screws. (This is a cheaper option compared to the fixed tip pens but the fixed tip pens are the considered better for long periods of burning and are more robust.) The pen size is like a larger ink pen and the tips get red hot in seconds. The cheap burners that look like a soldering will not burn fine enough and will not get hot enough to able to bone burn like this. Hope this helps. Sue:)
***** Hello Phillippe, it smells like burning hair....probably the best way to describe it. I didn't mask up for the burning of the bone but I did use a fan to draw any smoke away. I definitely mask up for sanding and prep of the bone, however.
what kind of burner do you have? ive been having trouble finding one where the actual tip and the area where you can hold the burner arent so far apart since i tend to hold pencils close to the nib.
I use the Razertip burner, Fred. (I sell them also.) The pens are the size of a fountain pen so you can get close to the work. Keep in mind though that your fingers need to stay back from the tip a little because burning on bone requires a red hot tip temp. The primary tip I used in burning bone was a Razertip 14S skew.
Great video! I have a question. I make bone guitar picks with pyrography, but I noticed that the burning starts to fade within a month or two. Do you have some tricks to prevent fading of the color? Thank you! You make amazing things! :-)
That's the million dollar question about pyrography....'why does it fade and how to prevent it' A chemist recently suggested high spectrum sun screen. It does seem to be a UV issue....so maybe it would work? If anyone has other suggestions, let us know please.
Around $200.00 USD...depending on how many pens you want etc. If you buy a single burner, a cord and 3 pens it will cost about $190 USD and $15.00 shipping. A dual pen burner with 2 cords and 3 pens will cost $235 plus the same shipping.
Pt3:Having said that great consideration has to be given to the finish that will be applied to timber after the burning is completed. Something like a polyurethane will yellow the wood and you will lose some of the contrast you fought hard to achieve. It would be better in this case to use an acrylic finish which doesn't tend to honey the wood colour.
Pt1: I know by handling with dirty hands and in certain environments ivory will darken considerably over time and, even with good care, a slight patina will evolve over time. I'm certainly no expert on bone but I assume this is what you're saying will happen to bone as well. The solution to this would be planning, to make sure the picture that you are burning onto the bone is of a high contrast so that when the patina develops the picture will still be strong against the darker background.
Pt4: So I guess long story short, the answer to this would issue be in the planning... choose a strongly contrasted pattern or picture that will in time still stand up strong against the background. Because I find hatching and cross hatching being one of the most effective methods to burn on bone, and seeing you can burn just about black on bone, this strong contrast shouldn't be too hard to achieve. Regards Sue.
Pt2:This issue is no different to burning on wood. When burning on darker wood it's advisable to choose a subject that has higher contrast to be able to be seen against the dark wood background. Pictures that are of a subtle contrast are better burnt on a very light coloured timber so that the contrast of the picture can be seen clearly against the 'canvas'.
Hi...a very good question and one I'll have to break up into a few replies to respond too...500 character doesn't provide much space:) And thank you so much for your compliment:)
I can't comment on other burners, sorry. I personally recommend the Razertip myself. It burns consistently, has a great range of tips, does the delicate work and the brutal work, (like bone burning). It's also got CSA,C/US (Canada and The States) and C'Tick cerification (Australia), and also meets all the european safety standards. It ticks all the safety and legal boxes.
This is the most well done video I've seen and your talent is brilliant!
Thanks Gary....that's appreciated:)
Bone lamellar armor with burned designs would be so cool
absolutely beautiful work
This is the first time I have seen a bone burning video and I am impressed with how you turned a piece of bone (that we usually throw away after we eat the meat!) into a nice piece of art!
Absolutely stunning! You have great talent and do a very good job as a teacher. Thanks for sharing!! ❤️
A good suggestion. We don't have that chain in Oz, but plenty of pet stores will have clean beef bones. You will still probably have to boil them though...there will be oil and fat in the bone despite not having flesh.
Thanks.
That was really enjoyable to watch. You explained well and clear audio. I will definately try this with bone. Thank you :-)
Thanks Annette:) I hope you enjoy the experiment.
Regards,
Sue.
what a beautiful work
This will be one that I will use for jewelry and Christmas ornaments. Thanks Sue.! Now I will also be able to buy these bones and make a set of runes.I can come up with all kinds of ideas now. Good think I bought a book for notes.
Runes are an excellent idea!
Thanks Rudolfo:)...I think the sepia tones
of bone burning would suit knife making well.
Thanks:) a variable temp pyrography (woodburning) power base and a small skew are pretty much you need for small burning like this. I'm afraid a soldering iron type pen probably wouldn't generate the heat or burn small enough lines. Glad you like it
Hi, I did reply to this before but TH-cam seemed to have scrubbed my comments. A ball tip won't burn a crisp line like a skew. For such small work I prefer to use a small skew. I do prefer the curved skew because I can access the hottest spot on the blade more easily compared to a straight blade...usually a third along the blade from the tip. The tip of this skew can also be used for stippling and tiny lines. (a Razertip 14S is my preference) The 7S and 1S are also good.
Wow!! Never seen this. Im a Knifemaker & this gives me some ideas for Bone handles.. I was fascinated with your work.. That is so Cool
Amazing! Also I like your tutorial style, thankyou for this upload! I definitely want to try this at some point.
I'm an amateur at this art but that looks very nice I will have try this.
Thanks fro sharing.
I know that, at least with bone carvings, that the bone will darken quite a bit over time to a brownish tone. Won't that be a problem by limiting the contrast between the burned lines and the background?
Your work is beautifull, and actually quite breathtaking in the detail on such a small piece!
Sue, I am very impressed with your talent. I'm wondering where to get the burning too you use. What I have is extremely frustrating in the time it takes to use. I would love to be able to do the precise work you do on my bone handle walking sticks. Thanks, marcalan bonjourwalkingsticks
Glad you liked it:) I can certainly see a market for burning on handles.
Many thanks Sue you`ve helped me a lot to understand the best attack . I do Deer antler and its basically the same tech-niches having to be followed of the best methods of burning of Bone.
Thanks Tom,We don't have a lot of antler here in Australia but I do have some I'm going to try one day. Glad I could help.
Beautiful, thank you!
bbeautiful work and beautiful accent :) love both
This is amazing.
Very impressive!
Beautiful, I must add bone burning to my next knife!
As I said below, TH-cam deleted a lot of my replies to past questions so I'm reposting.
Thank you very much:)
I use the Razertip system.
No worries....glad you liked it:)
Hi ya Big Mac:) I use the Razertip woodburning system.
Thank you...I'm glad you liked it:)
Beautiful
Is burning on the beef bone similar to burning tagua nuts? I'm just getting started with tagua nuts. Do you have any videos like this while working on tagua nuts? Thanks! ...and keep up the great work. I love your pieces!
+michael mathews Not even remotely the same kind of burn, Michael. Bone is dry to burn on and requires a hot burn to make an impression. Tagua requires a more gentle heat and is oily to burn on. I'll put a tagua video on the list of upcoming TH-cam videos. Sue:)
Thanks April...much appreciated:)
Hi, can you recommend skew and shader tip for burning approx 1.5" drawings? I also burn on hardwood. Will a medium or small skew be better for a beginner looking for crisp lines on 1.5" drawings with light detail? My 1.5mm balltip is not crisp and I loose too much heat with it. Thank you.
Wow that's amazing, wish I had the tools to make that
I noticed in your comments you say you sell the woodburner is that just the tips or the whole kit? I'm looking for one similar to the one you use in this video but not sure where to look as they all seem to look like crappy soldering irons, I'm tying to get as close to the nib as a i can with my fingers so I can effectively draw with it! Cheers.
Hi Squish,
I sell the burner I use and recommend, Razertip. (google Sue Walters) It has a power base and a huge range of tips. This system is called a wire tip burning system. The tips are either welded onto the pen body (Fixed tip pens), or attached to an interchangeable pen via screws. (This is a cheaper option compared to the fixed tip pens but the fixed tip pens are the considered better for long periods of burning and are more robust.) The pen size is like a larger ink pen and the tips get red hot in seconds. The cheap burners that look like a soldering will not burn fine enough and will not get hot enough to able to bone burn like this.
Hope this helps. Sue:)
Thank you for taking the time to explain :) Your work is awesome.
Sue Walters how was the smell of burning bone? Did you have to wear any sort of special PPE for burning the bone?
***** Hello Phillippe, it smells like burning hair....probably the best way to describe it. I didn't mask up for the burning of the bone but I did use a fan to draw any smoke away. I definitely mask up for sanding and prep of the bone, however.
Thanks...glad you could understand me:)
what is best tool for burning deer antlers
what kind of burner do you have? ive been having trouble finding one where the actual tip and the area where you can hold the burner arent so far apart since i tend to hold pencils close to the nib.
I use the Razertip burner, Fred. (I sell them also.) The pens are the size of a fountain pen so you can get close to the work. Keep in mind though that your fingers need to stay back from the tip a little because burning on bone requires a red hot tip temp. The primary tip I used in burning bone was a Razertip 14S skew.
Great video! I have a question. I make bone guitar picks with pyrography, but I noticed that the burning starts to fade within a month or two. Do you have some tricks to prevent fading of the color? Thank you! You make amazing things! :-)
That's the million dollar question about pyrography....'why does it fade and how to prevent it' A chemist recently suggested high spectrum sun screen. It does seem to be a UV issue....so maybe it would work? If anyone has other suggestions, let us know please.
You should give antler a try.
Thank you...much appreciated:)
Ah...thank you...much appreciated:)
Generally how much money does the Razertip cost?
Around $200.00 USD...depending on how many pens you want etc. If you buy a single burner, a cord and 3 pens it will cost about $190 USD and $15.00 shipping. A dual pen burner with 2 cords and 3 pens will cost $235 plus the same shipping.
That's the prices I charge, Recommend retail is about 15% more.
how much time do i have to let it boil?
Sue Walters
I think it depends on how much meat and oil the bone has on it. I think I boiled mine for about an hour. Sorry I can't be of more specific help.
Sue Walters no worries , i just did it yesterday and it was great ... now i see it a big yellowish like color. im about to polish it/ thx
Great! An ivory alternative.
Absolutely! There's lots of videos on bone carving...beautiful stuff.
CON The smell while burning
Pt3:Having said that great consideration has to be given to the finish that will be applied to timber after the burning is completed. Something like a polyurethane will yellow the wood and you will lose some of the contrast you fought hard to achieve. It would be better in this case to use an acrylic finish which doesn't tend to honey the wood colour.
Pt1: I know by handling with dirty hands and in certain environments ivory will darken considerably over time and, even with good care, a slight patina will evolve over time. I'm certainly no expert on bone but I assume this is what you're saying will happen to bone as well. The solution to this would be planning, to make sure the picture that you are burning onto the bone is of a high contrast so that when the patina develops the picture will still be strong against the darker background.
Pt4: So I guess long story short, the answer to this would issue be in the planning... choose a strongly contrasted pattern or picture that will in time still stand up strong against the background. Because I find hatching and cross hatching being one of the most effective methods to burn on bone, and seeing you can burn just about black on bone, this strong contrast shouldn't be too hard to achieve.
Regards Sue.
Pt2:This issue is no different to burning on wood. When burning on darker wood it's advisable to choose a subject that has higher contrast to be able to be seen against the dark wood background. Pictures that are of a subtle contrast are better burnt on a very light coloured timber so that the contrast of the picture can be seen clearly against the 'canvas'.
Hi...a very good question and one I'll have to break up into a few replies to respond too...500 character doesn't provide much space:)
And thank you so much for your compliment:)