TW P3; Square cuts & blade change [video
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- #cheaptracksaws #tracksawworkshop #tracksaws
TWP3: square cuts, cut depth and blade changing
Finally! It’s the Tracksaw Workshop, a new users guide to track saws and plunge saws, covering everything from initial setup and routine maintenance to best practice and blade changes, plus some simple jigs to make life easier. Oh, and I make a 2440mm / 8’ long rail for less than £20. Enjoy!
This video is Part 3 of 7
Part 1 is here - • TW P1; What's a tracks...
Part 2 is here - • TW P2; Tracksaw basics...
Part 4 is here - • TW P4; DIY crosscut ji...
Part 5 is here - • TW P5; DIY Parallel Gu...
Part 6 is here - • TW P6; DIY Long Guider...
Part 7 is here - • TW P7; Improvements an...
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Used/featured in this video series
Festool TS55 Tracksaw - amzn.to/2pGvzDS (US: amzn.to/2oOgGhw)
Festool T18 drill/driver - amzn.to/2QAHpK1 (US: amzn.to/2RPuOCR)
Festool CXS - amzn.to/2syMO8Z (US: amzn.to/2r0TZ7U)
Festool PDC 18/4 - amzn.to/2s3J0eq (US: amzn.to/2tWUHEL)
Festool Midi extractor - amzn.to/2tCIN3Q (US: amzn.to/2rKNIOx)
Festool lever clamp - amzn.to/2pOohLD (US: amzn.to/2pnFZIM)
Moldex 6810 in-ear defenders - amzn.to/2sTwQJE (US:amzn.to/2sThGo1)
Hultafors Talmeter tape measure - amzn.to/2pHwnbH (US: amzn.to/2oqLQc9)
Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
Bradawl - amzn.to/2qWTbln (US: amzn.to/2pZqVRm)
Mirok square - etsy.me/2MC0RTZ
3M double-sided tape - amzn.to/2ROIR0c (US: similar - amzn.to/2B08qAZ0
Polyvine PolyTen PVA - amzn.to/2HBxK66
Straightedge by Ooznest (global shipping) - bit.ly/Ooznest
Digital caliper - amzn.to/2UaeuxG, (US: amzn.to/2Tax8FF)
Seam roller - amzn.to/2Hq7rj3 (US: amzn.to/2TbPBBU)
Silicone spray - amzn.to/2CEquR1 (US: amzn.to/2MwbeKI)
Makita 3-metre splinter guard - amzn.to/2TdVApS (US: amzn.to/2MuagOT)
Makita rail clamps - amzn.to/2T9ukc1 (looks like non-US??)
Makita rail bag - amzn.to/2CDtM6X (US: amzn.to/2S4MKxd)
Other blades:-
Key blades & Fixings - amzn.to/2Tbpsms
Festool - amzn.to/2AVt84D - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![TW P4; DIY crosscut jig [video #280]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/45mt7lgkkOc/mqdefault.jpg)
![TW P4; DIY crosscut jig [video #280]](/img/tr.png)
![My 5 Worst Buys! [video 484]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5uoQ78879Es/mqdefault.jpg)
![Big Decision: Festool or Mafell? [video #400]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5kqui1b0SbU/mqdefault.jpg)
![5 Quick Tips to keep your Tracksaw - and you - Happy [video 553]](/img/n.gif)
As a woodworking newbie, the checking for squareness was such a needed perspective. Near the 2:00 mark, you start a sentence with: "and that is actually [pause]". I was convinced, without a doubt, you were going to finish that sentence with "absolutely terrible" as there was a small discrepancy. I may have been sitting with my mouth open for a bit while all the "terrible, terrible cuts" I've made thusfar flashed before my eyes. Salvation
Thanks a lot!! This playlist is like an in depth and very thorough seminar on real life woodworking. The detailed explanation of why 3 mm excess is the current measurement is superb and incredibly useful. Many thanks. Emanuele from Ancona, Italy
This was so helpful, the part about the three millimetre and the scoring cut,I now get it, thank you Peter
Finally I understand all the practical parts of how to saw and what blade to use. Thanks
That little gem of information on setting the depth so as to keep the tooth within the materials is genius. There is a noticeable difference in the quality of cut. Thanks.
Thanks! I thought it was a load of old pony when I was told it, but the more you think about it the more it makes sense! And it does work 🤷♂️👍 #alwayslearning
Scoring cut - genius. Thank you
Hallo Peter,
try to make the scoring cut with a depth of 2 mm in REVERSE direction! Do not push the saw away from you, pull it to you.
The first cutting teeth of the sawblade will cut in downward direction, so nothing will tear out.
That's why scoring blades on table saws rotate in reverse direction.
I allway use this method on plywood and multiplex when cutting across the grain. It works perfect!
Your videos are great! Thank you very much!!
Juergen
Yes, good idea. I even think that this technique will help with first cut (cutting splinter guard) as moving backwards the cut is started from back of the saw - so you cut the end of splinter guard while the saw still sits firmly in rail.
Totally agree.
I did this and it works really well, using a Makita. Thanks!
Hi Peter
Hope all is well
I have been using my festool plungesaws for about 17 years
They really are the best value for $
They just don't ever F up for me
These vids of the tracks saws are fab (right to the point on depths,technics act)
Keep it up
Hackney Council Apprentice 1985 to 1990
38 years woodworking
Still learning
Peter, Venice Beach , LA ,CA, USA
Thanks Peter! And wow - Hackney council to Venice Beach; there’s a story there! 👍👍
I’m going through all these videos, so many great tips and ideas! I was told years ago that using the depth that just exposes the teeth at the underside maximized the number of teeth in contact with the wood and this gave a better cut. You can see the length of the blade cutting line at 5:30 is about twice as long as when it’s at maximum depth, seen at 6:05.
You'll get a better result from tear out by flipping the piece over(good side down). At that point it cuts the finish surface mush like a table saw with the teeth presented to the timber at the leading edge with a downward cut. Most of the time it is not a necessary step as good blades produce less tear out, but when it's a real concern it does help. Give it a go.;-)
Thank you for this awesome guide! My makita 40v came with 56t thin kerf blade, with some special tooth design
Well done Peter - just the ticket.👍😀
Thanks Norman!
Hi Peter, I always put a strip of masking tape down first, not only does it make making clearer (my eyes aren't as young as they once were ) and I find that I get a better cut. also masking tape is dirt cheap.
Your description around the blade tooth and 3mm was spot on - and I didn’t believe it either. When I was shown the tooth was described as a little chisels.
Thanks Karl! It really sounded like a load of bull when I first heard it, but when you think about it it really starts to make sense! 👍👍
I'm really enjoying these videos, thanks so much for doing them.
Thanks! 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop last week I was struggling cutting a sheet of plywood on a table saw... Thinking of how unsafe it was. This may be the solution I'm looking for
Absolutely! They’re perfect for cutting sheet goods, and larger panels 👍👍
One thing you didn't mention but is certainly good to know is if you are breaking down rough sawn timber, and particularly if you are doing rip cuts, get a 12 TPI blade for your track saw. When I switched over it was like someone had given me a new and improved saw. With a TS55 I can easily rip through hard timber at full depth with a 12 TPI blade. The rip blade does pretty decent cross cuts as well but I always clean them up on the mitre saw afterwards.
Thanks! I’ve never done that kind of ripping tbh, but good to know it can be done with a coarse blade 👍👍
Funny - I have multipurpose blades and a rip blade for my table saw but never thought about a rip blade for the track saw. Thanks!
The narrower kirf of the saw blade effectively meant you did not have a splinter guard.
I changed my 24 to a 48 (Diablo) tooth pretty soon after getting my saw for a finer finish. It cost a few extra $$$ but I think it was worth it.
On the dewalt saw, a thinner kerf blade affects the riving knife, due to its thickness matching that of the blade.
DeWalt plunge saw blades typically have 2mm kerf, so a 2.2mm would be fine. Only blades meant for cordless saws typically have a kerf less than 2mm 👍👍
Thanks for series, been to aldi tonight and got tracks aw for £60! Looking forward to putting your advice to use.
Bargain! 👍👍
Some good tips Peter Thanks.
If I don’t want tear out on the underside I usually just run a length of decorators tape along the cut first. It’s not perfect but it helps.
Peter I’ve never heard of the three millimetres over for the best results, but I’ll try it over the weekend 👍🏻 thanks
Great set of videos really enjoying them keep up the good work
Thanks! 👍👍
with the mafell you just open the side to change the blade, no plunging required and very stable on the bench
Oh dear...think I'm missing parts 1+2. 🙈😂😂😂 I'll pop back in a short while 👍🏼
Apologies - scheduling snafu. All live now. 👍
Peter Millard not a problem at all sir. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😬
Re waste side cuts, Not sure it would work for everything but in the one time I did try it, I had a good result by just sticking some frog tap along the top and bottom of the cut.
I've got the Grizzly version of this saw, and I never knew what the second arrow on the side was for!
Part III ??? I never received notification of Parts I or II ... Makes me wonder what else I've missed. I'll go look for them.
Full series was released at noon GMT Friday 25th. It seems some folks received an email early about P3, don’t know why. Link to the playlist where everything appears in order in the video description 👍👍
I've not changed the blade in my tracksaw yet but isn't the retention pressure added from the outside of the blade? And therefore the wider kerf shouldn't have any impact on the splinter guard as it would only extend the cut away from the guard rather than into it?
Peter, not sure this should have gone out yet :) were missing part 1 and 2 👍
Apologies - scheduling snafu. All live now. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Working my way through from Episode 1, Fantastic series! I went out and bought the Titan after your last Track saw series so have been looking forward to this.
Hi Peter, I am looking at the entry-level track saw to purchase. How has the work zone and triton stacked up over the 4 years. I am now retired and can't justify festool.
The parkside is only cheap tracksaw I have seen with the blade lock, no scoring feature though.
Useful, thanks. Apologies if covered in a previous vid but can you tell us if the anti-splinter strip is actually in contact with the material after the initial trim cut? Some shots appear to show a gap between underside of strip and the work. If so, that’ll undoubtedly compound breakout, as the other function of the strip besides being a visual reference is to hold the material in place against the blade rotation. I returned the Parkside saw for the same reason, i.e. the edge strip was too thin and curled up and away from the material.
Thanks. This is covered more extensively in Part 7where I change the splinter-guard, and try alternative blades, and also in yesterdays 'More on Blades' follow-on. But yes, the original splinter-guards are poor (as mentioned in Part2) and the rails generally a weak-point, which I'll expand upon when I do the full review of the saw. 👍
Pete.... I don't think you emphasised enough the blade diameter effect re. the calibration marks on the saw itself, a different diameter blade will basically render the plunge calibration useless... ish 😅
I intend to stick a Trend blade in mine too... the std. blade is just about okay tho.. re. the rubber splinter guard, mine curls up away from the surface too... if you wanted to get fancy you could replace it completely with some kind of solid plastic strip siliconed in place & trimmed to width...I'm on the lookout for suitable material to do just this on mine...
Enjoying the series so far !!
👍😎☘
Thanks Peter! This was just about the mechanics of the blade change - I get into alternative blades in Part 7. The Makita splinter guards are a little thicker but they still don’t make full contact. The Festool ones are thicker again, but I haven’t tried them yet.
My email from TH-cam about this series only listed parts 1, 2, 4, 5, 6 and 7, but not part 3, anyhow flicked to your page and picked it up there. I always thought the more teeth the finer the cut, maybe not as critical on MDF as it is on ply I guess.
Thanks Bob. But if a scheduling snafu - Part 3 was released early, so I had to pull it then re-release manually on schedule! As ling as they were all visible. There’s a playlist link in the vid description that has them all
In order. 👍👍 Edited to add - there’s a bit more to come on the blades next week. 👍👍
Hi Peter, thanks for your video series, i'm new to tracksaws so this has been very helpful! Any reason you can't just plunge the blade fully and set a square-up against it and the plate?
Thanks! You can do it that way, but you need to lock the saw in the plunged position, and you’ll be squaring the blade, not the cut, if that makes sense? Especially in entry level saws like the one I use here, it’s not unusual for there to be a slight ‘wobble’ which affects the evenness of the cut, so I always prefer to square off a cut, not the blade. 👍
what about putting painters tape over the cut line to reduce splintering?
i bought the mac allister plunge saw after seeing your vid discounted to £80 from £100 so took a punt! i also bought a 40 tooth blade and fitted that. luckily just enough rubber poking out to get the line trimmed on the tracks! however, it struggles cutting 18mm mdf, feels underpowered which is annoying. ill whack the 24 tooth one it came with and see if that makes a difference. not sure about yours, but the tilting mech is pretty rubbish with flex and it catches half way through and back and you have to 'massage it back in to place. found liberal use of silicone spray helps...
Send it back, that's not right. Mine will breeze through 18mm MDF with a 48 tooth blade in it, no issues at all with the tilt. Return it.
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank for the reply peter - ill send it back and get a replacement
Peter love your video work - been following since day one - keep up the great work - I am thinking of buying a track saw so i was very interested in this tracksaw workshop - clicking on your links under the description to look at the previous ones in the series the videos are no longer available - I just thought I would let you know
Apologies - scheduling snafu. All live now. 👍
Interesting your result with the 48 tooth blade.
I have a dewalt mitre saw and bought a 48 tooth blade for that as I wanted a finer cut for some work I was doing. I was disappointed by the results on that too more break out especially at the end of the cut compared to the stock dewalt blade which had less teeth.
Always been a fan of Trend kit but their blades do seem to be lacking a little.
More on blades in Part 7, and an follow-up out next week 👍👍
not sure if things have changed in the past 2 years but the trend blade I bought was excellent with my mac allister plunge saw. I followed all of PM's advice along with the usual tips and tricks related to blades, I also coated my blade in dry ptfe before I even used it if that maybe makes a difference? Idk. but I theorize, in this vid, that either the workzone saw is just shit, or peter forgot to move the splinter guard to account for the 2mm less kerf. who knows
I plan to buy a festool blade sooner than later just so I can sharpen it instead of throwing away... but I gotta admit, I would feel dirty putting it in a £95 plunge saw lol
USA 3mm is almost 1/8-inch
Wasn't clear to me what happens if the depth of cut is too deep and the teeth blades come entirely out of the stock? What is the bad result on the stock?
If the blade is not square to the work piece, is there a clever way to fix it it?
I realised I’d missed it off and cover it in Part 4, but short answer RTB for the Aldi, DIY for the Festool. 👍
Surely a different thickness blade wouldn’t make a difference as the inside of the blade is the part that trims the splinter guard and that would be the same distance from the saw as it nestles against the spindle, the outside edge of the blade would be cutting thin air even if it was 5mm thick it couldn’t cut any more of the rubber away, nice series by the way
No, it’s the width of the teeth (the kerf) that matters. The teeth are centred on the blade, so thicker teeth (wider kerf) will trim the rubber strip a little more than the thinner one. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop BTW, it would be a 1/10 of a mm, not 1/5th. (It's 0.1mm wider on each side of the tooth, making it 0.2mm wider overall). That's assuming an equal width saw plate (which is probably NOT the case). When I changed my blade to a smaller one, the small difference bugged the hell out of me, so much so that I had to replace the splinter guard. It was annoying when the saw didn't cut to the line.
And whilst we're talking splinter guards, buy rubber strips from eBay (or similar), attach carpet tape to the back and use that as a splinter strip. No need to buy 'proper' ones at £10 a pop. For £10 of rubber, you can get many strips. Doesn't even matter if you can't cut it straight as the saw will make the straight cut you are interested in - just make sure you get the right thickness (allowing for the width of the carpet tape also of course)
"A load of old Pony" 😂😂
😆😂😂👍👍
All this safety awareness like unplugging from mains
What about spinning blade on your finger I was told by a old joiner in his works someone walked out of the sharpening shop and spun the blade on his finger sliced it open like a tin of beans apparently there was a bur on it.
I assume the Scheppach (derived) tracksaw doesn't hold the blade firmly enough (there is some vibration) so the quality of cut won't be improved by using a 48T blade.
So why the variation between blades??
@@10MinuteWorkshop I am not sure what you are referring to/might be misunderstanding the question, but to me seems obvious that the blades where teeth have been machined to a higher tolerance and hardened appropriately ("appropriately" here is a catch-all term) would cause less random movement during cutting and hence, less tear-out.
However, I have seen an experiment where a Festool blade was used to cut a long timber board - the blade was inserted in the Festool TS 55, and then the same blade was inserted in a low quality tracksaw whose make and model escape me. The main point is, the blade was the same, but the quality of cut with the unnamed, cheaper tracksaw was far worse. I assume that this has to do with the bearings, the machining accuracy of the chassis, and how well balanced to motor's armature is.
@@GianmarioScotti I'm referring to the fact that the Key and Festool blades produced decent results on the Aldi saw & track, but the Axi and Trend were poor. All were good on the Festool saw/track though. If there was any issue of the Aldi saw and track, then it should affect all the blades, no?
@@10MinuteWorkshop my hypothesis is, and you could check this yourself by careful examination of the cuts (use a lense or a microscope if you have access to one), that all the blades would produce better results on the Festool than the Aldi tracksaw. There will be difference in quality of cut between blades, so if you pair the Aldi with a good blade like the Festool one, you will get better results than with a blade of inferior quality. Basically what I am saying is that the quality of the cut depends on both the tracksaw (due to the factors I listed in my previous reply) AND the blade.
Peter - Only see Part 3 and Part 6 on your channel. I think something has gone wrong!
No they’re all there. Try the playlist - link in each video description 👍 bit.ly/TracksawWorkshop
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks, link in the description worked -brilliant!
On your main video page though, they really strangely don't appear! Here is what it looks like: imgur.com/a/OYaokno
Might want to get youtube to fix it so your viewers don't miss this content - I know I've been really looking forward to this :D
Thanks for what you do - your channel is absolutely brilliant!
Thanks - I’ve had one other subscriber mention this; I think it’s just a cache-ing thing, it all totally fine at my end desktop/tablet/phone with private browsing enabled, everything. I’m away right now but I’ll look into it when I’m back. 👍👍
Isn’t the thiner kerf only impact far side ? thinking kerf should has nothing to do with split guard .
No, the kerf is balanced either side of the blade; a thicker kerf will affect the splinter guard. 👍
Which accounts for the poorer performance of the 48 tooth on the splinterguard side as the splinter guard was trimmed with a 2.4 kerf blade?
I don't believe changing the width (kerf size) of the blade will effect or change the splinter guard.
It does. Try I and see. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop ahh yes. The teeth are wider. 1/2 the net difference will be toward the saw. Thanks. Keep up the good work!
how do you know what side of the blade will be the waste side????
The waste side is the side that isn't under the splinter guard, hence the term 'waste-side' cut, when the piece you're keeping is actually on whats traditionally the waste side.
@@10MinuteWorkshop duh, I feel so dumb now😅😅😅. Thank you so much for your reply!!!
1 mil = 1/1000 of an inch.
Where is part 1 and 2, have I missed something?
Apologies - scheduling snafu. All live now. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Peter, it's suggesting videos 4 and 5 when you watch number 2 rather than 3, meaning you need to go into your channel to find 3. Just a heads up! Matt
I’ve no control over what TH-cam’s algo’s do, but James picked up part 3 when it was accidentally released at 7.00am. There’s a playlist (link in the video description) that keeps (and plays) everything in order. bit.ly/TracksawWorkshop 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop oh ok, fair enough! Think this is the first time it's got the order wrong, they usually just flow! Keep it up 😁
@@mattkindon2917 Thanks! These were all released at 12.00 noon, so I'd imagine the algo's get confuddled. You can only specify 15-miinute increments for scheduling, and I didn't want them to be released over the course of a couple of hours,each one with its own notification... 😱👍
Hi Peter, what are you using as your 6mm spoilerboard?
Scrap MDF. 👍
With Kreg now out with their new plunge saw, what do you think of it's initial appearance? As a hobbyist this series is by far the best overview of these saws.
Thanks! Don’t think the Kreg is actually available for sale yet, and if so only in the US AFAIK. I’d be interested in taking a look - it’s unusually a ‘left-handed’ design ie motor to the right of the blade, which is curious - possibly unique in tracksaws. 🤔