Engine Assembly Crankshaft & Pistons
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- Check out Kalvinator Engines: www.kalvinatore...
After all the preparation of balancing, checking clearances, and painting, it's now time to assemble my engine. In fact, this is the only part of engine assembly we were able to get on camera. Because everything else took so long, we were not able to recored the cylinder head and the rest of the assembly.
Still, there's a ton of useful information in this video about bottom end assembly and the types of things you want to consider with a boosted application. As you'll see in the video, you build an engine for boost very differently than you build a naturally aspirated engine.
No matter what, you'll walk away with great information form this video and a deeper appreciation for my machine shop, Kalviantor Engines.
Thanks to Kevin Frische for his help in this video.
Previous video in the series: • How To Calculate Combu...
The #FairmontProject playlist: • ETCG Gets a New Car! -...
The best place for answers to your automotive questions: www.ericthecarg...
Camera: Brian Kast
Thanks for watching!
Discussion about this video: www.ericthecar...
Tools
Piston Ring Compressor (most popular kind): www.jbtoolsale...
Piston Ring Compressor (clamp type): www.jbtoolsale...
Speed wrench: www.jbtoolsale...
Digital torque wrench 1/2": www.jbtoolsale...
Digital torque wrench 3/8": www.jbtoolsale...
ARP Moly Lube: www.summitraci...
Engine Assembly Lube: www.jbtoolsale...
WD-40 Sprayer: wd40.com/produc...
Related Videos
#DarkMatterPikachu on the Dyno: • The #FairmontProject E...
Thrust Bearing Video: • Thrust Bearings and Wh...
How to use Plastigauge: • How To Use Plastigage ...
Torque Nazis: • Torque Nazis -ETCG1
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Parts
My Turbo Kit (Oil filter relocation kit at bottom of page): www.on3performa...
Engine Details
Displacement: 363cid
The Block: www.pbm-erson.c...
The Crank: www.pbm-erson.c...
The Heads: performancepar...
Compression: 8.9:1
The Cam: Comp Cams custom grind: 222@.050" 222@.050 .357"lobe lift .571" valve lift (1.6 rocker) .351" lobe lift .562" valve lift (1.6 rocker) 114º separation 4ºadvance
Modified: Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
The Carburetor: www.holley.com...
The Distributor: www.msdperform...
The Ignition: www.msdperform...
The turbo Kit: www.on3performa...
**Answers to your automotive questions found here: www.ericthecarg...
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Stay Dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
I thoroughly appreciate the pride that these guys take in their work. they are the true doctors of engines.
nothing like watching a master perform his craft, but his knowledge during discussion is priceless. His work bench is clean and orderly.
In this video Kevin is ETCG and ETCG is us. Very satisfying to see that an expert can still learn after all these years.
This was really enjoyable to watch. So many people rebuild engines and think all it is is just taking the engine apart changing some parts and slapping it back together. When in fact it is a very tedious and time consuming effort that requires not only the knowledge but patience and the experience to know exactly how the various components work together in harmony. Well done sir!
Fantastic question regarding the bearing clearance and mixing standard and oversize bearing shells. In 35 years of engine building I have never heard it explained better. Thanks!
Absolutely can't wait to see her running! I've always loved this kind of stuff! just rebuilt the engine in my truck (just stock rebuild) at school and i enjoyed doing it! I'm in my final year of school for automotive and currently working as a technician. your videos are part of what finally inspired me to go to school for this! can't wait till i can afford to do an actual performance build like this one day! Dream!!
I'm honored by your comment. Good luck in school and with your future projects.
thank you!
Thanks for all the videos on your engine build for your Fairmont I’m still watching more of them And learning a lot more than I used to know about engines.
But it was fortunate to meet a master engine builder like Kevin frische (to see how in depth an engine should be built).
It’s sad but I could watch machine shop videos all day.
Yes, it's sad!
You deserve some type of award Eric. You are truly the best, most dedicated, most Entertaining Car Guy.
omg I'm going to school for this in 8 months. I wanna be just like that. I'm amazed about the methodology of this all. I'm so excited to learn
Reminded me of helping my dad build and engine back in the day.
excellent info on rebuilding from a guy with a lot of build experience. this is becoming a lost art. thanks, eric for making this video.
Great video! It's nice to watch an engine master at work doing the job correctly!
30:15 In aircraft maintenance, we mark torqued bolts using a product called "anti-sabotage" paint. If it's moved, someone moved it.
I love it I feel like I need to get into this lol
Most definitely feels like giving life to a hunk of steel. Especially the butterflies of its initial fire up! Nothing like it.
I feel hypnotized watching this. Great work. Love building engines. Right now I have couple of engines builds going that have no cars to put them in. Do it just for fun.
I wish this dude could be in every car video asking questions the whole time. He's so good at it.
He loves to hear his own voice.
Sure wish I could find someone like that here in the North Texas area to build my 427. :) Excellent video! Really enjoyed watching a true professional, and his helper, in action!
;)
Two philosophies I try to live by when working on cars. "Some is good, more is better, too much is just enough..." And "THERE'S ALWAYS TIME FOR LUBRICANT!"
At last, an American engine builder that puts the camshaft in before the crank. Almost all I've seen put the crank in first, and I've never seen the logic in that. In UK, we are taught to put cam in first, so you have better control.
If there was a tv show like this, I'd watch it everyday.
The man knows his stuff and cares about doing quality work!
Witnessing the birth of DarkMatterPikachu!!
Very nice
The sound of the crank turning at the end... smoooooooooth....
Thanks for this Eric and Kalvinator, it's amazing to watch a true craftsman at work, the zone Kevin got into shows how much he cares.
Awesome Video!
Thanx for doing this series, my 14yr old son and I are about to rebuild the engine and I'm going to have him watch whats involved.
No stupid music - No fast forwards - Perfect
Eric, you kept saying how this assembly was boring. I found it to be one of the best most interesting "Eric the Car Guy's I've seen. I love all the little fine points and the love in the cake. It reminded me of my old 69 Z-28 days.
love the Fairmont build! I just had minor surgery which required me to spend two days in bed. Found the playlist on the first day and the recovery flew by. thanks for posting such great content.
You have to love watching people who are experts, doing what they do with precision and accuracy.
Is it just me or does anyone else find this therapeutic?? Wish I had a shop like that 😞
A master craftsman at work. Funny how Eric you go down the old school carburettor 20th century route for your engine and the master engine builder uses a 21st century digital torque wrench to help tighten up your engine. WD40 to help rebuild a virgin engine, I mean come on. This kind of information & tons of other info needs to be taught on your youtube channel. These are the guys you want to invite to the bar just to have a chat with to gain years of wisdom over a few beers. Kevin and his son are awesome. We need a tool review on digital torque wrenches now :)
Agreed, this was a fantastic video. This guy is a master, i bet his hands can crush golf balls haha.
Funny when i was taught engine reco I was told to always use a deflecting beam torque wrench as it’s more repeatable as they don’t loose accuracy as quickly case is point the dealership I work at there’s probably 25 torque wrench’s between peoples own and workshop supplied and a general mix of micrometer dial and digital that get calibrated every 6 months(German car company that like everything torqued) out of all those my 2 deflecting beams (1 about 5 years old 1 at least 45 years old) generally need less adjusting Than the rest including my dial wrench
Uhhhh...The flaws in that is that he used the manual "Click" torque wrench for final torque and that is more along the lines of carburetor technology. And are you questioning the used of the WD-40 or making light of it? WD-40 is lube that displaces water and does that well. There are better things for it, but that's like putting a set of $1000.00 tires on your 93 Tempo. Best out there, but its overkill.
Digital torque wrenches are alright, little pricey. The regular torque wrenches work just as good
I learned how to rebuild engines from books really,
it's really cool to watch this,
even hear the sounds of tapping the pistons in, the piston rings scraping the cylinders, the sound of the connecting rod bouncing a bit before it's connected...
Feel like I'm maybe not crazy...
]
Good To See The Process Done By A Pro Shop like Kalvinator, Ive Done Complete Engine Assembly Before But Self taught DIY thingo, Eric is a Happy Camper, i know that feeling with Engines :)
It's fun watching Eric be the Student lol! This video shows how much Eric loves cars. It's incredible.
This Man is like the Clint Eastwood of engine building. Go ahead punk make my day !
Awesome clarity on main bearing measuring and compatability. much appreciated 👍
He's a pro with the speed wrench.
45 minutes? Holy cow! That's not something I can watch "in between" at work. Well done, Eric. I cannot wait to see the DMP in action. :O
Awesome video! I have reading material for a SBF Windsor bottom end assembly, but it's great to have a video like this to actually see how the engine is assembled. Gives me a little more confidence.
Thank you for these videos Eric. I have never removed or dissembled an engine before. It all started with a rear crankshaft seal leak and before I knew it I had the entire engine torn down. That said, I am now getting ready to re-assemble my Mercedes 560SL engine and I feel your videos will be helpful. I have been documenting the process because nobody on the Internet has ever documented the rebuild of the M117 engine. This has been the scariest thing I have ever done. I sure hope my engine starts.
Engine yoda should meet turbo yoda!
you know all too well. haha
Tabby Black hahah!!!
Adel Jeffrey Eric the car guy/mcm mashup. I'd watch that.
They are alike in a lot of ways!
Adel Jeffrey turns out this engine malfunctioned and needed pulling apart by Eric. . Not that it was Kevin's fault.
LEARNING= KNOWLEDGE...A TAD OF LUBE ON MAIN CAP WASHERS IS VERY GOOD!!! EVEN ROD CAPS BECAUSE TORQUE MUST BE SPEC...OUTSTANDING...OIL ON REAR MAIN SEAL...I AGREE...TY FOR SHARING...ALL MY PISTONS WENT IN WITH A LISLE RING COMPRESSOR...SET IT ONCE...FITS ALL PISTONS ON ON INSTALL!!!
ART??? You guys Amaze me being a plyer and screwdriver kind of mechanic................
Your the only person to ask the crush question in the hundreds of videos I’ve watched
Very interesting! i am not a car guy, a mechanic or engineer...very facinating! This guy is a wealth of knowledge! Impressive!
Kevin really knows his stuff!
Finally a long video on this series, you've been teasing!
Just working through the stock. Not all can be epic videos like this one.
I understand I'm just thankful we have any of them. Thanks for what you do!
Eric, thank you so much for making this video. I think this is the best thing I've ever seen on TH-cam.
look at how neat and tidy his bench is!
Eric's buddy is like the Gordon Ramsey of cars. Eric is the Sous Chef.
I'm an engine idiot, but I find this fascinating.... Going to go find all the episodes of this engine build.
I've watched almost all of your videos Eric and that was by far the most mesmerizing and pleasurable to watch.
Really like birth... strange to say that but I almost had goosebumps!!!! Cannot wait for more. You have evolved your videos and this is really great!
YES!! Someone else who uses WD-40 for piston assembly! Works a treat, and the rings seat quick. Love that adjustable tapered ring compressor tool, too!
As far as tightening the head studs, the thread grease used does change the torque down specs a little just keep that in mind, especially when using ARP head studs. :)
With Kevin on the top end pushing down on the cylinder and you down at the bottom end connecting the rods, together it looks like you're delivering a baby 😄.
Kevin really does make it look easy. Amazing............
Very neat I'm about to go through this with a 390 thank you gentlemen for showing me the craft that goes into this.
Man this is so beautiful, takes me back to the day I was building a 240sx engine, the clearances make all the difference. Great video
MrXSmasher the tighter the clearebce the better
Just got around to watching this tonight, 7/27/2018, and love it! I hope that engine is still running like a quartz watch! Thanks for showing!
45 minute machine shop video... hell yeah!!
This video has only made me understand how far i am form perfection. Amazing thanks guys love the work
Hi Eric, love your videos. Especially these engine prep and assembly ones.
"Last piston I have you my heart. The very next day you blew it away...."
It's been a million years since I've got to see an assembly. Nice!
Hey Eric.... that assembly and crank rotation gave me a chub.
For anyone asking, there are stud installer sockets available that allow for the use of a torque wrench. Go 1/2 torque for rods and mains, and no more than 40 lb/ft for head studs. Hope that helps!
My wife was going on at me all through this video. I didn't hear a word . The attention to detail was amazing . Then the video stopped and I heard the wife say "what do you think " Really caught with my pants down ,back up answer to all caught out not listen is the famous "What ever you want dear" It may end up costing me a lot of money my being so engrossed in the build BUT IT'S WILL BE WORTH IT Daz UK
Been there man. I feel ya. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for all the awesome content! I've grown up working on cars and I always learn something a bit more every time I watch.
Keep up the excellent content! THANK YOU!
Your videos will be of GREAT help and info. I will soon be building my 95' 302 in my Bronco.
Fun to watch you guys assemble the short block. I really appreciate the meticulous way you guys did the work.
He has great info on engine building, and i agree on break in normally by the time you get every thing adjusted and tuned the motor for the most part is broke in if it aint by then its not going to.
Excellent assembly video.
Just an FYI, according to ARP, the ARP Ultra-Torque Fastener Assembly Lubricant is a proprietary blend of extreme pressure lubricants, is metal free and does not contain, Molybdenum, Nickel, Lead or Copper.
Also it is important to mention that when using 2 sets of bearing shells to adjust/set the desired clearance, all of the upper bearing shell halves used in the block or connecting rod be like sized and all of the lower bearing shell halves used in the main or rod caps be like sized.
Mixing different thickness bearing shells in either the block/rod (upper) or caps (lower) effectively causes center of bearing bore misalignment, binding and premature wear.
I still can't get my head around using mismatched halves just to increase the clearance!
Paul Howard
Using mixed size bearing shell halves is a common practice used by more knowledgeable, higher end, high performance engine builders.
The practice is condoned by most of the larger performance bearing manufacturers including Mahle/Clevite and is mentioned in their literature regarding installation and fitting.
Using mixed thickness bearing shell halves to adjust final assembled clearance is also an OEM practice where the different bearing shell thicknesses are usually denoted by color coding dots and or number of punch mark indentions.
To maintain the bearing bore centerline alignment most manufacturers specify where to install the thicker bearing shell half, which is usually where higher bearing load is encountered.
The following is an excerpt from Mahle:
"If clearance adjustments need to be made, use either an extra clearance part for more clearance, or an undersize part for less clearance.
It is permissible to mix sizes if less than .001” adjustment in clearance is desired.
When mixing sizes for select fitting never mix parts having more than .0005” difference in wall size, and always install the thickest wall shell in the upper position if installing a rod bearing, or the lower position if installing a main bearing.
When working with a reground shaft always measure assembled bearing IDs first and have the shaft sized to produce the desired clearance since there are no extra clearance parts available for undersize shafts."
Using mixed size bearing shell halves facilitates small but critical, less than 0.001 inch (0.0254 mm) (1 one thousandth of an inch or 1/1000 inch) adjustments to set the optimal installed bearing clearance.
patw52pb1 thanks for the additional info.
Paul Howard
You are welcome.
patw52pb1 Mk o
Theese long and informative videos are the BEST! Can't wait to see this engine in action on the dyno and in the car! Great job guys, I almost felt that first complete rotation in my own hands as the totally sealed pistons were making that metal to metal sliding noise in those bores. Pure car porn and it's even better than sliding human piston in a human bore :)))
I can imagine Terminators watching this as porn...
I see it as porn too. Best kind if you asked me.
I learn something new every time I watch one of your videos thanks 😊
Im in an automotive service technician program we actually watched one of your old videos in class the other day on octane ratings
The reason you're supposed to put studs in finger tight is so they're not stuck if you break them. The benefit of using studs rather than bolts is the stud doesn't get twisted as much and it guides your assembly. The granular structure isn't distorted at the bolt head either.
yep, when it beds in the clearance will even out nicely. Sometimes you need to think out side the box
Good video with nice explanations of what is going through the master builder's mind.
35:40 Eric's on his knees, getting real excited!
I found this mesmerizing and therapeutic, thanks.
Yep...The inward outward thing is explained better by realizing that metal, even though hard is still pliable, therefore it must be applied like a sticker to avoid wrinkles in the material and an improper seal.
Well I was about to go to bed, but I think sleep can wait for this video. Love your work ETCG!
I remember torquing main and rod caps on my back with the block still in the car and using a cheap ass bar torque wrench.. That was on my 71 LTD with a 400 in it when I was around 18 years old.. I'm 53 now, so do the math.... I put new main bearings in it without removing the crank.. Ha, ha... Don't know how that thing ran, but it did run strong while I ran it and I ran it hard for at least another 2 years after that! Love the vids Eric and I'd pay those motor guys anything they wanted! :)
Great tutorial on how to do it right.. Not only does one need tech knowledge, one must possess natural skill in the hands. Notice how Kevin instinctively holds the head of the torque wrench... the first I have seen on any you tube channel... the RIGHT way to torque. I agree also 100% with Eric, "let the gasket do the work", forget the messy sealant or RTV.. ugh! and it will not seal.
FYI - The reason for Eric's bit of piston embarrassment was the use of baby taps. Small taps = small movement and bouncing of the ring compressor which allowed a ring to expand into the compressor/block gap. The first hit should be decisive enough to get the rings past the gap and fully into the bore.
Yeah, I totally agree. Eric didn't do anything wrong. This is something that would happen to anyone.
Actually, one of the ring gaps was lined up with the split on the tool and opened up when I was inserting the piston. Exactly what Kevin said not to do.
you have to admit that you were using baby taps though. Kevin was giving more of a push to the pistons.
awesome work on the fairmont so far.
Enjoying the series, keep them coming
I find doing that stuff therapeutic..All quiet please..I'm in the zone.
Such a beautiful engine block
Eric, glad to see you had a chance to turn your own crank!😆
yay a long one love the Kalvinator Engines episodes .
Good thing Kevin did such a good job, the engine ran so lean on the dyno for so long!
Nice video and top notch work. Can't wait to see the dyno run!!
th-cam.com/video/UADOHm6-BJc/w-d-xo.html
I watched this whole thing. Must mean something.
Hello,
I have a 2005 Renault Laguna 2 1.9 Dci (F9Q 750) (120 HP) that have been rebuilt on Feb 11. Everything has been renewed with new ones except crankshaft, camshaft and piston rods. The reason of rebuilding it was burning oil (350ml / 1000km and blue smoke especially on cold) and high blowby at idle on oil cap. The cylinders has been bored by 0.5mm and new oversized pistons inserted. The car runs fine without any leaks, without any smoke at operating temperature and it's powerful now. Still has a little bit of blowby smoke on pcv valve at idle at operating temperature but i hope it'll be gone when break-in procedure is finished.
My concern is, the service put a factory suggested Elf Evol 900 SXR 5W40 "Fully Synthetic" oil as initial oil and then they tested the car without my approval. They even said they redlined it on highway and went to 170 kmh which is contrary to break-in period and initial break-in hours. I researched about the break-in oil and break-in procedures and learned a few things but it was too late to tell them to service. They already done this stage. They didn't know about break-in oil anyway and said "use the oil which is recommended by factory as we did it like this". When i asked them about break-in procedure, they said drive it like you want it, it won't matter...
Since rebuilt, i've driven the car for 260 kilometers in 6 days and following the break-in procedures. Not lugging it, not overreving it, not passing 3000 rpm and avoiding full throttle sudden accelerations. I've been avoiding idling it for extended time. I've been using the RPM band widely as much as i can to help seating the rings to walls. In 3rd gear, accelerating smoothly from 2000 to 2800ish rpms then letting the foot off the gas and it drops slowly to 2000 again and repeating it on different gears when driving. Not driving it like a cruise control on same RPM.
My question is, should it break in like this with fully synthetic oil which is on the car for 260 kilometers? Should i stay with the synthetic oil inside until i reach 800kms and change it or should i change the oil and oil filter to mineral oil like Castrol GTX Essential 15W40 etc. immediately? I fear to glaze the cylinder walls or rings and can't successfully do the break-in procedure with the synthetic oil inside. I fear to damage the healthy turbo or other components with mineral oil too but the turbo repair is much more cheaper than an engine job which i paid significant amount of money. Is it too late for switching to mineral oil? Are my cylinders have been already glazed and rings wont seat as i fear this to happen? How should i test that?
What do you recommend in a situation like this? I was planning to do the first oil change when i reach 800kms after rebuild, then the second at 1300km and the 3rd at 4000km. I just want the engine to have a healthy break-in procedure and have a long life and decent performance. The money spent on oils and oil changes is not that much important. I want to drive this car healthy for 3-4 years, equals to 30.000 or 40.000 kilometers with my recent driving hours. I bought the car at August 2020 and have been fixing the problems caused by previous owner, sadly. I’m waiting for your advice, thank you for reading this and thanks for helping.
mixing bearing halves are kinda common. i used to think that way too, like eric thinking how the crank will be centred by mixing bearing halves. then i remember that the crank never loads on the bearing. it floats on a thin film of oil.
I never thought about it lol. But the question Eric was trying to get the answer to is how they are placed. The answer was placing the same size bearings all on the same side of the crankshaft. This wasn't answered in the video which may confuse some people. I had to look it up. I mean it makes since in engine building terms; all similar things go the same way automatically. So Kevin didn't even think about it. Trying to let people know how to do it properly.
Techincally the thicker bearing should go on the cap side because of the reciprocating forces are always side load or down...mostly down. In reality, does not matter
Wish I could go live in that shop 😢
Dirty old Bastard LOL ......... cracks me up ...... yes I got my oil/grease always on my face because I sweat a lot..... welcome to Florida .....
NICE JOB.... I always learn something new which is great.