One thing I really love about Garage 54 is that they let the intrusive engineering thoughts win. I think every engineer in the world can appreciate that kind of freedom of experimentation. Much love from my broken country, Canada!
I'm confused how you don't even have a million subs yet come up and create ideas that no one on earth even contemplates let alone does. This is so mind blowing its unreal.
Because of the war with ukraine. As this is a russian channel is it not recommended as much. But dont belive me, look at the views of their videos in the past 2 years (during war), and videos older than 3-4 years (before war)
@@Florinutzzzzz Yeah its this. Russia makes it hard for them too due to all the new sanctions/blocks. I assume they are doing all there content uploads and socials through VPNs.
Sounds like you're getting capacitance charge in the gate of your mosfet. If you connect a high resistance resistor from the gate to ground, that'll prevent it from getting stuck on
@@brookerobertson2951 it’s most likely an iD10-T error. These processors have a DM-5# that intercept nano signals in the quinine regulator. If they just connect a cybernautic distributor to all of the processing RFID’s the system wouldn’t continuously send interference to the magneto-optic capacitor
Tesla motor can eat dirt, the 50 SDP (screwdriver power) is here On another note, I’m actually impressed with how good this teams fabrication skills have gotten
5:19 transistor matching. If they're not matched, current will feed into each other. Other option is to isolate/buffer them (diodes? Opto-isolation? Gates [multiple xistor]?)
No, it's issues with driving them and parasitic inductance. That's PWM control, which involves turning the transistors on and off quickly so they don't dissipate heat of their own. The way to do this would be to have a single pot controlling a single chip, with multiple mosfets in a bank (with sources on ballast resistors) via a suitable driver chip to ensure the gates go high/low as fast as possible on transitions. Look inside high power inverters for an idea on how this is typically done.
the control boards typically have x2 50Amp transistors, 1 for forward and 1 reverse, so you lose power directly as the transistors bump up the power. they probably just needed to fit diodes between each module to prevent backfeeding
Yeah, I'm pretty certain there's too much power going through the transistor which is why they're burning out, It's the only reason I can come up with, unless someone's wired some in reverse by accident, which I'm pretty sure would also cause burnouts... I could be wrong though...
@nokel2 I wonder if they sorted it out in the next video, it looks very...interesting 🤣 love the innovation though th-cam.com/video/1UpbY6Tudqc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=htB1bXYwOwotegbs
Since you direct shorting the motors, use solid stat transistors matched to banks of the screw driver motors, then control the transistors with pulse width modulation. That way you get variable rpm but full torque
The most important thing is that the control boards will also have a low-voltage cutoff; without the control board, you can drain the lithium battery too low, and it may catch fire (will be good for the next video, but bring a fire extinguisher!); The biggest risk is recharging them. Place the batteries on a concrete floor with nothing flammable nearby when charging - also the smoke from a burning / venting lithium battery is much more toxic than anything you have done on cars previously. Looking forward to part 2!
You guys do a lot of good work. Very interesting. Very dedicated. Keeps me entertained with stuff that has never crossed my mind. Keep it up. From Canada 🇨🇦
I love this channel, Its like every weird idea I've ever had, but they have the skills to follow through. They do it with a smile on their face as well, where as I scream and curse up a storm just changing a water pump.
The transistors are dying because the chip doesn't have much headroom to drive a lot more than one at a time. Transistors end up under-driven, the junction dissipates lots of power, overheats and dies.
I think they were still using one transistor per drill, just linking all the gates to one input. My guess is they were not considering input impedance of the transistor and matching with the output impedance so each transistor may have been drawing too much current.
5:58 Those MOSFETs probably have to be isolated from each other with separate reference signals. Check the manufacturer specific data sheet for the model of MOSFET each of those units uses. The other option is to use DC motor controllers. You'll have to check your power draw for each drill to determine what size of controller you need.
With your direct wire method, might as well use ESC for RC cars (check if battery voltage is OK for it) and use a transceiver or "servo tester" to control the motor speed at once. Just hook the output of the transceiver or "servo tester" into the corresponding signal input for the ESC, might need to check pinouts - test with one or two of them first!
@@pierrejeanes If they use the cheap ESC you can get, and maybe 10 or 20 ish amps...if they paid for all the drills it won't be that expensive Or someone in their region can mod the existing ESC in the drills to do the same job
Electronic Engineer student here, I feel like the easiest solution would be to completely remove each motor and mount those seperately, eliminate the casing for the drills and the control board and create your own circuit to manage each motor at the same time
I am a machinist and this was a huge effort to machine each serpentine pully and keyway. I’m guessing each one took 3 hours to make manually on a lathe x50 more than 150 lathe hrs alone. This is a very expensive project to make great effort !!!!
the transistor in the controller is always referenced to the ground of the connected battery so if you connect all the ground terminals of each battery together it should work correctly assuming no losses over the long wires. In electronics every thing has to be referenced to the correct ground potential other wise the connection is "floating"
Amazing build! Your mistake with the wiring is you can't get one drill board to support many motors. They aren't designed that way. The proper way is to do what you did and bypass the circuit boards. If you wanted 1 drill board to activate all 50, you would need to redesign the board for 50x the load, and still wire them to all the motors anyways.
yeah, i used to work with power electronics, and it was very susceptible to it's own electrical"noise". the screened wire was a step in the right direction, but your approach of ditching the existing speed controller is best.
I absolutely enjoy all the content y'all create. As an avid fan I would greatly enjoy hearing your show in your native language with subtitles. Offering your show in both English and Russian could possible double your views. I for sure would watch your show in Russian with subtitles.
Always mind blowing ideas. Bros and sis, lets run some ads for them as sign for support and thanks. I know running the ads help them recover a bit of cost. Those team members there deserve a raise.
When talking with people about mechanic work I *Always* tell people the engine is extremely simple, all those internals are just to spin the crank shaft around. Doesn't matter what or how as long as the crank spins. The transmission is where the magic happens and no one focuses on the transmission!
I love these guys, true engineers, and their videos are anything but boring but they must get bored like nobody's business... who on earth has ideas like this?
Would have been cool to see all of those drills turning custom cut drive gears/sprockets mounted on a flat steel panel perpendicular to the drive gear to a pinion gear. Would be an art piece
I thought this too. I'm guessing, but I reckon they're going to get a lot of slippage from those belts as soon as they're put under load. Having said that, I think these guys are smart enough to have already made it work, because they wouldn't have uploaded part one otherwise! 😄
Bleed resistors. Chances are that your switch output is floating after being triggered. Something like a 10k-100k resistor between the switch output wires would probably do it. Recommend looking up "PWM Controller" ("ШИМ-контроллер"). These are usually cheap and easy to source. That said, you might be able to pull a few of them from used treadmills or other DC driven systems. This would also support use of a single power source which would be easy to disable in an emergency. Those drills are powered by little 550 motors. If you ever do something like this again, perhaps just pull the motors. This could allow for a much more simple design.
Awesome! Man, if you can find a Prius and power that with power drill batteries instead of the Panasonic prismatic modules, that would be hilarious and get the views I am guessing. Impressive as usual. Thanks for sharing guys.
Pull down resistor I'm thinking. I forget offhand as thyristors like DIACS and TRIACS or one or the other can be latched and one needs like a resistive load like resistor or diode on to unlatch. Similar with the transistors and I forget the details since have not worked with in a few.
For the power tools, the control module uses the position of the button to generate a voltage for the base terminal (sometimes called the gate terminal) of the transistor and this voltage determines the current that will flow through the transistor. To control all of the power tools with one button, you would use one controller as a master circuit and build a voltage follower circuit (a simple circuit using an operational amplifier) for each of the power tools that would apply the same voltage that the master controller generated for the transistor's base terminal to the base terminals of all of the transistors of the power tools in the engine.
The reason that the one switch cause one to stop and two to keep going. Is because that is a type of IGBT so there is one input and three seperate binary output of so it would be outputting 011
I know it's a one off and for fun but it's important to note that drill motor bearings are not built to handle axial load which is something they very much will be experiencing in this pulley configuration, for any amount of longevity from the bearings you should add a bearing inside the other end of the pulley wheel attached to a static rod that is welding in place to support the axial load. Awesome idea looking forward to seeing it on a vehicle
I recommend using a busbar of sorts to run all of the wires nice and neatly from the power side and a separate busbar for the negative side of course. This can greatly reduce the number of wires. If you were to mess around a little bit and try running a couple of drills wires in series we might see a jump in performance speed wise that is assuming the drill motors can handle the increased voltages..
Большое спасибо за создание этих видео! Не могли бы вы рассмотреть возможность добавления оригинального русского звука в качестве опции для нас? Я носитель английского языка, но мне нравится слушать другие языки.
5:14 As for the transistor and only the transistor. It accepts enough power for one drill. Hooking multiple draws more power you need one that can handle the current.
This video really brings warmth to my soul. It warms my you can't do that it's not possible. You guys answer with hey call watch this. Amazing gentlemen Amazing
GREAT JOB, YOU GUYS DO SOME INTERESTING AND UNUSUAL THINGS, YOU ARE EXTREMELY CREATIVE ALSO I NOTICED YOU DO NOT GIVE UP ON MAKING THINGS WORK, NO MATTER HOW IT TAKES
Very cool, yet again. But I think a simple adjustment perhaps. mount the pulleys on bearings on the frame and then turn them with the drills. I think the force on the belt pulling sideways on the chucks may be to much. We will see, I look forward to it!
50 motors at 5 amps start up is 250 amps but posibly far more getting the car moving a 5 ah battery will not last 1 hour so more like 20 -30 min at low speed so 500 amps
Standard dc, can style brush motors. Use an individual PWM module for each drill motor. Use a single microcontroller to run each PWM module. Use a potentiometer to control PWM signal through the controller. You can directly control the potentiometer with the throttle pedal or throttle cable. Simple, affordable, pre-made components and some short, simple code.
Bad idea using belts, you will get power loss, better use a single gear shaft and transfer the power of each drill via (bicycle) gear, while one drill not spinning the rest will spin freely without any issues. Same principle as pedaling and not pedaling, that gear shaft will always spin but it will get the 1x Drill power only if the drill spins. Better concept, better power transfer and no issues in case 1 drill gets damaged.
Most simple and low-tech solution for your trigger problem: Just add a small relay to each drill so the trigger signal path stays in the drill to avoid interference, then run wires to the coils and energize them with a car battery. Pretty much 0 chance of failure.
I believe you needed to connect all the batteries together in parallel so it balances as one large cell, instead when you pulled the trigger it would charge or discharge and cause failures. I still would have done the same thing with removing everything, except added an extra wire: one for ground, one for battery positive, and one for motor positive, this way you can charge all the batteries or power the motor with an external source at a higher voltage. With your current system you have to charge each battery manually and each battery can become unbalanced from the pack.
Best way would be to use an opto isolator between the MOSFET and control switch, you can even PWM it to get variable speed. There are a lot of ways to get it done but I still think that the simpler the better should bring the best results.
To hook the trigger's together you need to isolate each transistor from each other with diode's on your signal wires. Put a diode in line so the diode stops signal from bleeding back to other transistors signal inputs, signal can come in to each drill transistor but not back out to others. Diode is a one way valve and your signal input for each transistor can not feed back to another with the trigger off. Diode's allow power one way and I assume the input for the signal is just positive voltage varrying to varry the transistor output voltage as transistors just take a small current to control a large current.
As most have said; You have an electronic driver for the drill motor which involves a insulted gate mosfet transistor. Likely they are pulse width modulated or variable frequency/pulse width modulated. They usually utilize a variable frequency driver to operate the pulses in the ultrasound bandwidth so they arent as noisy. There was a solution but as you have now destroyed your drivers there is no going back for that. Rather, you'd probably be better off looking for a high voltage DC motor driver like something from a cheap treadmill or industrial DC motor controller. Radio control cars will also have high power brushed motor drivers you'd likely be able to use.
control power externally with a potentiometer/rheostat. perhaps a solenoid/relay to engage power and rheostat to control acceleration. could also wire up a common ground for the drills, then with the relay disconnected you could charge all 50 batteries at a time, use a high amperage circuit breaker to stop it overcharging
Nice job guys I'd recommend making a switch inside and several relays to withstand the power instead of burning yourself with the wires but I'm not sure (never tried) connecting several relays together but as you're trying stuff out your welcome to try this idea if you want to keep it simple but i think 4×70A Relay should handle it just fine and one switch with a 12v independent battery is what's needed
If it's only the 2 gears and no adjusting you could have a 3 point flip switch on the gear knob, like trucks have for lower and higher gears. The 3rd switch option is the off setting. Then you have all gears in lower rpm and all gears in higher rpm AND 2 gears for reverse 😁👍
You guys are freaking nuts. I love it. All the things I wonder about sometimes- you've almost fulfilled all of them. I would like to get some dyno results on an engine like this- it almost seems like some of the April-fools stuff you folks have pulled! I kinda want to see you take one, gear it up as much as needed to get a car moving. It'd probably be well under 1mph but I'll bet with enough gear reduction you'd get a single drill to at least 'move' a car on flat ground! *they probably continue to run a bit due to capacitors still having a bit of power left-over. This is kinda normal for electronics. with one of my old PCs, you could turn the power supply off for up to a whole second, flip it back on and the computer would still be running- no crashing or anything. I don't know if it is possible with newer computer hardware though- things have changed a bit since a decade ago when I was able to do that.
I refuse to believe that the Russia-Ukraine thing didn’t fuck these guys up on the algorithm. Such an awesome channel and they were exploding in popularity end of 2021 start of 2022 and it flatlined around Feb-March. You guys are the best!
V belt is an ambiguous term, it can be used in conjunction with serpentine and auxiliary belt or as I assume you’re referring to a V ribbed belt or drive belt. They’re not wrong, just using broad ambiguous language to most probably fit into both Russian and English.
Finally, a mechanic friendly EV design.
And only 50 batteries to remove, recharge and replace 3/4 of them on the sides or underneath.
@JonathanTamm Still less steps than swapping a tesla powerbank
The tools you need to fix your motor are already there!! 🤣😂🙂😉✌
@@JonathanTamm Still cheaper than the replacement of a BYD battery. :D
@@JonathanTamm It can easily be wired to charge them all at once.
One thing I really love about Garage 54 is that they let the intrusive engineering thoughts win. I think every engineer in the world can appreciate that kind of freedom of experimentation. Much love from my broken country, Canada!
My condolences for having Trudeau as a leader
you mean broken 51st state.
@@jorgec5335 No he means broken country. The US is slowly getting back on track.
What you mean by "broken"? I'm curious. I'm from Europe!
@ElenaPopp-x9v just look at the UK as an example
I'm confused how you don't even have a million subs yet come up and create ideas that no one on earth even contemplates let alone does. This is so mind blowing its unreal.
Because of the war with ukraine. As this is a russian channel is it not recommended as much. But dont belive me, look at the views of their videos in the past 2 years (during war), and videos older than 3-4 years (before war)
Yep America is trying to suppress anything positive about Russian culture or People. Sad, truly sad.
@@Florinutzzzzz Yeah its this. Russia makes it hard for them too due to all the new sanctions/blocks. I assume they are doing all there content uploads and socials through VPNs.
@Florinutzzzzz I did feel like it's a political target. No way they haven't got the subs due to quality
This isn't their main channel. They have 4.75m on their Russian channel.
When you get a temu coupon for 99% off lol
Buy one get 50 free 😂
About $1000 usd in drills
Harbor freight and walmart drills are $20
lmao
The only channel where all the video titles seem like clickbait, but none of it is actually clickbait. Awesome work guys!
The exact reason I've always loved their content. This channel has never clickbaited us and for that they have our respect!
Sounds like you're getting capacitance charge in the gate of your mosfet. If you connect a high resistance resistor from the gate to ground, that'll prevent it from getting stuck on
This is exactly what I think is happening, especially if he’s typing multiple gates together
@@zaydabbas1609 with different power sources. a diode between and a pull down resistor as oskiv says
Just needs to defrag the BIOS and update the psu's firmware. Then uninstall the quad bond injector. Simple
Yup! Flyback diode and pull down resistor.
@@brookerobertson2951 it’s most likely an iD10-T error. These processors have a DM-5# that intercept nano signals in the quinine regulator. If they just connect a cybernautic distributor to all of the processing RFID’s the system wouldn’t continuously send interference to the magneto-optic capacitor
Tesla motor can eat dirt, the 50 SDP (screwdriver power) is here
On another note, I’m actually impressed with how good this teams fabrication skills have gotten
I like your PFP 😊
ALL of a testa can be a cannibal and eat 💩
@ 🤘 love from West Virginia
Tesla as a whole is a complete joke lol 😂
i would be impressed if their skills did not improve, with all the shenanigans they indulge in
I can't understand how you are always able to surprise me
😊
DA
I can 😋
Actually good original content unlike Mr Least... and the 12yr old content
5:19 transistor matching. If they're not matched, current will feed into each other. Other option is to isolate/buffer them (diodes? Opto-isolation? Gates [multiple xistor]?)
7:15 well no shit if they're dc motors why were you burning silicon fumes in the first place 😂 that shit ain't healthy
Maybe there mosfets thats why when u apply voltage it stays on u need to ground them or remove the charge applied somehow
@@forbiddenera Because the trigger can control the speed of the drills like a throttle in a car instead of the motors only being on or off.
No, it's issues with driving them and parasitic inductance. That's PWM control, which involves turning the transistors on and off quickly so they don't dissipate heat of their own.
The way to do this would be to have a single pot controlling a single chip, with multiple mosfets in a bank (with sources on ballast resistors) via a suitable driver chip to ensure the gates go high/low as fast as possible on transitions. Look inside high power inverters for an idea on how this is typically done.
@@MadScientist267 could it be fix using a resistor to remove the inductance from the signal wire to ground?
the control boards typically have x2 50Amp transistors, 1 for forward and 1 reverse, so you lose power directly as the transistors bump up the power.
they probably just needed to fit diodes between each module to prevent backfeeding
Yeah, I'm pretty certain there's too much power going through the transistor which is why they're burning out, It's the only reason I can come up with, unless someone's wired some in reverse by accident, which I'm pretty sure would also cause burnouts... I could be wrong though...
@nokel2 I wonder if they sorted it out in the next video, it looks very...interesting 🤣 love the innovation though
th-cam.com/video/1UpbY6Tudqc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=htB1bXYwOwotegbs
Seeing your exploits always brings me joy!
I love that Cyril is back doing videos outside of 54 drift. He’s been there since the beginning and is integral part of Garage 54. Just like Vlad.
A 48-screwdriver 6-radial engine.
Since you direct shorting the motors, use solid stat transistors matched to banks of the screw driver motors, then control the transistors with pulse width modulation. That way you get variable rpm but full torque
As good as that sounds there’s no way we’re gonna see pulse width modulation in the next episode.
@alexwalker8422 yes, you could use 1 controller to trigger the SSRs all at once
I think one of Vlad's guys will just drink a lot of coffee & wear short sleeves in the cold so he can do the PWM by hand
this is why I love these guys hahaha
Forreal, some of the ideas are so stupid but they make it work anyway, its great!
me three!
The most important thing is that the control boards will also have a low-voltage cutoff; without the control board, you can drain the lithium battery too low, and it may catch fire (will be good for the next video, but bring a fire extinguisher!);
The biggest risk is recharging them. Place the batteries on a concrete floor with nothing flammable nearby when charging - also the smoke from a burning / venting lithium battery is much more toxic than anything you have done on cars previously.
Looking forward to part 2!
Usually li-ion battery packs have the protection inside them. But I don't know this brand...
You guys do a lot of good work. Very interesting. Very dedicated. Keeps me entertained with stuff that has never crossed my mind. Keep it up. From Canada 🇨🇦
Million subs incoming. Going to be a party when it hits!
I love this channel, Its like every weird idea I've ever had, but they have the skills to follow through. They do it with a smile on their face as well, where as I scream and curse up a storm just changing a water pump.
The transistors are dying because the chip doesn't have much headroom to drive a lot more than one at a time. Transistors end up under-driven, the junction dissipates lots of power, overheats and dies.
I think they were still using one transistor per drill, just linking all the gates to one input. My guess is they were not considering input impedance of the transistor and matching with the output impedance so each transistor may have been drawing too much current.
5:58 Those MOSFETs probably have to be isolated from each other with separate reference signals. Check the manufacturer specific data sheet for the model of MOSFET each of those units uses. The other option is to use DC motor controllers. You'll have to check your power draw for each drill to determine what size of controller you need.
This has got to be one of the top 5 best channels on TH-cam 👍🏿
Whats the other 4?
Feels like a hidden gem. It's definitely the only Russian language channel I watch.
You keep blowing my mind with these insanely awesome projects!
Don't forget the awesomely insane projects!
Use a relay to switch them on. Low power switch to energize a high power relay
With your direct wire method, might as well use ESC for RC cars (check if battery voltage is OK for it) and use a transceiver or "servo tester" to control the motor speed at once. Just hook the output of the transceiver or "servo tester" into the corresponding signal input for the ESC, might need to check pinouts - test with one or two of them first!
This is what i would have done too.
Not sure about that because so many ESC are gonna be so expensive
my esc button is plastic and does not work for rc anything.
@@pierrejeanes If they use the cheap ESC you can get, and maybe 10 or 20 ish amps...if they paid for all the drills it won't be that expensive
Or someone in their region can mod the existing ESC in the drills to do the same job
Electronic Engineer student here, I feel like the easiest solution would be to completely remove each motor and mount those seperately, eliminate the casing for the drills and the control board and create your own circuit to manage each motor at the same time
I am a machinist and this was a huge effort to machine each serpentine pully and keyway. I’m guessing each one took 3 hours to make manually on a lathe x50 more than 150 lathe hrs alone.
This is a very expensive project to make great effort !!!!
3 hours for aluminium?
3 hours per pulley? Is that how long it would take you? That would be extremely expensive at US hourly rates lol.
To do it manually cut from billet square and cutting groves with a keyway also I expect yes
did you mean 3 minutes???
The amount of on the spot engineering and invention on this channel is so under appreciated. Definitely one of my favorite channels
the transistor in the controller is always referenced to the ground of the connected battery so if you connect all the ground terminals of each battery together it should work correctly assuming no losses over the long wires. In electronics every thing has to be referenced to the correct ground potential other wise the connection is "floating"
Amazing build!
Your mistake with the wiring is you can't get one drill board to support many motors. They aren't designed that way. The proper way is to do what you did and bypass the circuit boards.
If you wanted 1 drill board to activate all 50, you would need to redesign the board for 50x the load, and still wire them to all the motors anyways.
yeah, i used to work with power electronics, and it was very susceptible to it's own electrical"noise". the screened wire was a step in the right direction, but your approach of ditching the existing speed controller is best.
Run diodes inline for the switches, or have a separate triggered relay connect them all - isolate the trigger from the signal.
You guys are the best! I smile every time I hear about the next berserk project you are doing.
The creativity exhibited here is unmatched 😂😂
Hemi orange! 👌🤣👍👉❤️ man I can’t wait to see this concoction driving a car! And the surprises keep on coming!
Ngl, one of your lads could look into custom Arduino's for the weird electric stuff like this which could translate into a new skill for your shop.
A single device adjusting the flow of electricity between where all the wires meet together is exactly what we need.
I absolutely enjoy all the content y'all create. As an avid fan I would greatly enjoy hearing your show in your native language with subtitles. Offering your show in both English and Russian could possible double your views. I for sure would watch your show in Russian with subtitles.
These guys r funny, crazy smart and do the things I've always thought about. They don't even have any idea how cool this is to Americans.
Always mind blowing ideas. Bros and sis, lets run some ads for them as sign for support and thanks. I know running the ads help them recover a bit of cost. Those team members there deserve a raise.
Love this channel lol. Always coming up with crazy ideas. Brilliant work as always.
thank you for English dubbing your videos, I love all your ideas. there extremely unique
The man hours in making those pulleys and how you casually mention it is astounding
When talking with people about mechanic work I *Always* tell people the engine is extremely simple, all those internals are just to spin the crank shaft around. Doesn't matter what or how as long as the crank spins. The transmission is where the magic happens and no one focuses on the transmission!
I love these guys, true engineers, and their videos are anything but boring but they must get bored like nobody's business... who on earth has ideas like this?
Would have been cool to see all of those drills turning custom cut drive gears/sprockets mounted on a flat steel panel perpendicular to the drive gear to a pinion gear. Would be an art piece
I thought this too.
I'm guessing, but I reckon they're going to get a lot of slippage from those belts as soon as they're put under load.
Having said that, I think these guys are smart enough to have already made it work, because they wouldn't have uploaded part one otherwise! 😄
Bleed resistors. Chances are that your switch output is floating after being triggered. Something like a 10k-100k resistor between the switch output wires would probably do it.
Recommend looking up "PWM Controller" ("ШИМ-контроллер"). These are usually cheap and easy to source. That said, you might be able to pull a few of them from used treadmills or other DC driven systems. This would also support use of a single power source which would be easy to disable in an emergency.
Those drills are powered by little 550 motors. If you ever do something like this again, perhaps just pull the motors. This could allow for a much more simple design.
Glad to see that the sanction are working! Good luck with your power tool engine
How you guys come up with and build this stuff never ceases to amaze me.
Awesome! Man, if you can find a Prius and power that with power drill batteries instead of the Panasonic prismatic modules, that would be hilarious and get the views I am guessing. Impressive as usual. Thanks for sharing guys.
Pull down resistor I'm thinking. I forget offhand as thyristors like DIACS and TRIACS or one or the other can be latched and one needs like a resistive load like resistor or diode on to unlatch. Similar with the transistors and I forget the details since have not worked with in a few.
For the power tools, the control module uses the position of the button to generate a voltage for the base terminal (sometimes called the gate terminal) of the transistor and this voltage determines the current that will flow through the transistor. To control all of the power tools with one button, you would use one controller as a master circuit and build a voltage follower circuit (a simple circuit using an operational amplifier) for each of the power tools that would apply the same voltage that the master controller generated for the transistor's base terminal to the base terminals of all of the transistors of the power tools in the engine.
The reason that the one switch cause one to stop and two to keep going. Is because that is a type of IGBT so there is one input and three seperate binary output of so it would be outputting 011
Garage 54 be like: that has engine let's put it into a car
Today we'll swap a lada engine with a lada!
I know it's a one off and for fun but it's important to note that drill motor bearings are not built to handle axial load which is something they very much will be experiencing in this pulley configuration, for any amount of longevity from the bearings you should add a bearing inside the other end of the pulley wheel attached to a static rod that is welding in place to support the axial load. Awesome idea looking forward to seeing it on a vehicle
I recommend using a busbar of sorts to run all of the wires nice and neatly from the power side and a separate busbar for the negative side of course. This can greatly reduce the number of wires. If you were to mess around a little bit and try running a couple of drills wires in series we might see a jump in performance speed wise that is assuming the drill motors can handle the increased voltages..
Needs more diodes
My initial impression is that one drill powered up is back feeding to the others
Yep. Or they need ran individually though something like mosfets and 555 timers all fed by a common variable resistor.
diodegonewild
Begone THOT BOT.
The electronic motor looks awesome. Will look even better under the hood of a Lada. Lol.
Большое спасибо за создание этих видео!
Не могли бы вы рассмотреть возможность добавления оригинального русского звука в качестве опции для нас? Я носитель английского языка, но мне нравится слушать другие языки.
5:14 As for the transistor and only the transistor. It accepts enough power for one drill. Hooking multiple draws more power you need one that can handle the current.
This video really brings warmth to my soul. It warms my you can't do that it's not possible. You guys answer with hey call watch this. Amazing gentlemen Amazing
This channel NEVER asks if we should... Because you just should.
GREAT JOB, YOU GUYS DO SOME INTERESTING AND UNUSUAL THINGS, YOU ARE EXTREMELY CREATIVE ALSO I NOTICED YOU DO NOT GIVE UP ON MAKING THINGS WORK, NO MATTER HOW IT TAKES
Solid!
Top KEK!
Peace be with you.
I can't believe how you always come up with genius ideas
Very cool, yet again. But I think a simple adjustment perhaps. mount the pulleys on bearings on the frame and then turn them with the drills. I think the force on the belt pulling sideways on the chucks may be to much. We will see, I look forward to it!
I loved the Russian creative remedy with the electronic problem!
It's too early. I think I need a glass of Stoli to digest this modern marvel of engineering.
use a motorcycle starter solanoid..itll handle the current no problem..
then just wire up a button to make the motors start etc
50 motors at 5 amps start up is 250 amps but posibly far more getting the car moving a 5 ah battery will not last 1 hour so more like 20 -30 min at low speed so 500 amps
Standard dc, can style brush motors.
Use an individual PWM module for each drill motor.
Use a single microcontroller to run each PWM module.
Use a potentiometer to control PWM signal through the controller.
You can directly control the potentiometer with the throttle pedal or throttle cable.
Simple, affordable, pre-made components and some short, simple code.
Chainsaw engine will be hard to beat!
I think it would be entertaining to watch them mount a couple Yamaha or Honda twin cylinder motorcycle engines together to mount into a lada
Recharging those 50 batteries is going to be a whole lotta fun 😂.
Bad idea using belts, you will get power loss, better use a single gear shaft and transfer the power of each drill via (bicycle) gear, while one drill not spinning the rest will spin freely without any issues. Same principle as pedaling and not pedaling, that gear shaft will always spin but it will get the 1x Drill power only if the drill spins.
Better concept, better power transfer and no issues in case 1 drill gets damaged.
Most simple and low-tech solution for your trigger problem: Just add a small relay to each drill so the trigger signal path stays in the drill to avoid interference, then run wires to the coils and energize them with a car battery. Pretty much 0 chance of failure.
I wonder how many amps each motor pulls at full load, can't wait to see it installed!
I believe you needed to connect all the batteries together in parallel so it balances as one large cell, instead when you pulled the trigger it would charge or discharge and cause failures.
I still would have done the same thing with removing everything, except added an extra wire: one for ground, one for battery positive, and one for motor positive, this way you can charge all the batteries or power the motor with an external source at a higher voltage.
With your current system you have to charge each battery manually and each battery can become unbalanced from the pack.
Best way would be to use an opto isolator between the MOSFET and control switch, you can even PWM it to get variable speed. There are a lot of ways to get it done but I still think that the simpler the better should bring the best results.
You guys have the craziest ideas! Love it!
To hook the trigger's together you need to isolate each transistor from each other with diode's on your signal wires. Put a diode in line so the diode stops signal from bleeding back to other transistors signal inputs, signal can come in to each drill transistor but not back out to others. Diode is a one way valve and your signal input for each transistor can not feed back to another with the trigger off. Diode's allow power one way and I assume the input for the signal is just positive voltage varrying to varry the transistor output voltage as transistors just take a small current to control a large current.
Hahahaha! this is how robot combat started, using cordless drills with a R/C servo in place of the trigger. Some even had an actuator to reverse!
I can't wait to see the next video. It's a dream to visit Russia one day.
As most have said; You have an electronic driver for the drill motor which involves a insulted gate mosfet transistor. Likely they are pulse width modulated or variable frequency/pulse width modulated. They usually utilize a variable frequency driver to operate the pulses in the ultrasound bandwidth so they arent as noisy. There was a solution but as you have now destroyed your drivers there is no going back for that. Rather, you'd probably be better off looking for a high voltage DC motor driver like something from a cheap treadmill or industrial DC motor controller. Radio control cars will also have high power brushed motor drivers you'd likely be able to use.
My name isn't Olivia, but I love your videos as much as Olivia does.
Keep going! You guys are awesome!
4 drills short of 54 looking forward to next episode 😀
The only electric car you'll see on Garage 54.
You should try impact instead of drill.
You are the craziest man doing the most insane things on TH-cam... and you are amazing for it all
A certified pro if I've ever seen one
control power externally with a potentiometer/rheostat. perhaps a solenoid/relay to engage power and rheostat to control acceleration. could also wire up a common ground for the drills, then with the relay disconnected you could charge all 50 batteries at a time, use a high amperage circuit breaker to stop it overcharging
You fellows have some amazing ideas. It looks like a Pratt+Whitney Wasp engine! Thanks for a very entertaining yt channel ! 🌞
this is a awesome project, cant wait to see it in a car
Nice job guys I'd recommend making a switch inside and several relays to withstand the power instead of burning yourself with the wires but I'm not sure (never tried) connecting several relays together but as you're trying stuff out your welcome to try this idea if you want to keep it simple but i think 4×70A Relay should handle it just fine and one switch with a 12v independent battery is what's needed
after its up and running...slap it on a dyno to see how much torque its putting out 🤩
If it's only the 2 gears and no adjusting you could have a 3 point flip switch on the gear knob, like trucks have for lower and higher gears. The 3rd switch option is the off setting. Then you have all gears in lower rpm and all gears in higher rpm AND 2 gears for reverse 😁👍
You guys are freaking nuts. I love it. All the things I wonder about sometimes- you've almost fulfilled all of them. I would like to get some dyno results on an engine like this- it almost seems like some of the April-fools stuff you folks have pulled! I kinda want to see you take one, gear it up as much as needed to get a car moving. It'd probably be well under 1mph but I'll bet with enough gear reduction you'd get a single drill to at least 'move' a car on flat ground!
*they probably continue to run a bit due to capacitors still having a bit of power left-over. This is kinda normal for electronics. with one of my old PCs, you could turn the power supply off for up to a whole second, flip it back on and the computer would still be running- no crashing or anything. I don't know if it is possible with newer computer hardware though- things have changed a bit since a decade ago when I was able to do that.
I’ve never seen a more elaborate answer to a question no one’s ever asked.
Try CALCIUM CARBIDE for fuel, it has way more power potential than wood.
I refuse to believe that the Russia-Ukraine thing didn’t fuck these guys up on the algorithm.
Such an awesome channel and they were exploding in popularity end of 2021 start of 2022 and it flatlined around Feb-March.
You guys are the best!
Au ludilo, jedva cekam drugi deo 😉
that reversed welding shot was actually sick af
"regular V-belt" literaly not a V-Belt and just a accessory belt from a car.
V belt is an ambiguous term, it can be used in conjunction with serpentine and auxiliary belt or as I assume you’re referring to a V ribbed belt or drive belt. They’re not wrong, just using broad ambiguous language to most probably fit into both Russian and English.