Tesla motor can eat dirt, the 50 SDP (screwdriver power) is here On another note, I’m actually impressed with how good this teams fabrication skills have gotten
I'm confused how you don't even have a million subs yet come up and create ideas that no one on earth even contemplates let alone does. This is so mind blowing its unreal.
Because of the war with ukraine. As this is a russian channel is it not recommended as much. But dont belive me, look at the views of their videos in the past 2 years (during war), and videos older than 3-4 years (before war)
@@Florinutzzzzz Yeah its this. Russia makes it hard for them too due to all the new sanctions/blocks. I assume they are doing all there content uploads and socials through VPNs.
5:19 transistor matching. If they're not matched, current will feed into each other. Other option is to isolate/buffer them (diodes? Opto-isolation? Gates [multiple xistor]?)
No, it's issues with driving them and parasitic inductance. That's PWM control, which involves turning the transistors on and off quickly so they don't dissipate heat of their own. The way to do this would be to have a single pot controlling a single chip, with multiple mosfets in a bank (with sources on ballast resistors) via a suitable driver chip to ensure the gates go high/low as fast as possible on transitions. Look inside high power inverters for an idea on how this is typically done.
Sounds like you're getting capacitance charge in the gate of your mosfet. If you connect a high resistance resistor from the gate to ground, that'll prevent it from getting stuck on
With your direct wire method, might as well use ESC for RC cars (check if battery voltage is OK for it) and use a transceiver or "servo tester" to control the motor speed at once. Just hook the output of the transceiver or "servo tester" into the corresponding signal input for the ESC, might need to check pinouts - test with one or two of them first!
@@pierrejeanes If they use the cheap ESC you can get, and maybe 10 or 20 ish amps...if they paid for all the drills it won't be that expensive Or someone in their region can mod the existing ESC in the drills to do the same job
the control boards typically have x2 50Amp transistors, 1 for forward and 1 reverse, so you lose power directly as the transistors bump up the power. they probably just needed to fit diodes between each module to prevent backfeeding
Since you direct shorting the motors, use solid stat transistors matched to banks of the screw driver motors, then control the transistors with pulse width modulation. That way you get variable rpm but full torque
Bleed resistors. Chances are that your switch output is floating after being triggered. Something like a 10k-100k resistor between the switch output wires would probably do it. Recommend looking up "PWM Controller" ("ШИМ-контроллер"). These are usually cheap and easy to source. That said, you might be able to pull a few of them from used treadmills or other DC driven systems. This would also support use of a single power source which would be easy to disable in an emergency. Those drills are powered by little 550 motors. If you ever do something like this again, perhaps just pull the motors. This could allow for a much more simple design.
yeah, i used to work with power electronics, and it was very susceptible to it's own electrical"noise". the screened wire was a step in the right direction, but your approach of ditching the existing speed controller is best.
The transistors are dying because the chip doesn't have much headroom to drive a lot more than one at a time. Transistors end up under-driven, the junction dissipates lots of power, overheats and dies.
50 motors at 5 amps start up is 250 amps but posibly far more getting the car moving a 5 ah battery will not last 1 hour so more like 20 -30 min at low speed so 500 amps
The most important thing is that the control boards will also have a low-voltage cutoff; without the control board, you can drain the lithium battery too low, and it may catch fire (will be good for the next video, but bring a fire extinguisher!); The biggest risk is recharging them. Place the batteries on a concrete floor with nothing flammable nearby when charging - also the smoke from a burning / venting lithium battery is much more toxic than anything you have done on cars previously. Looking forward to part 2!
I love these guys, true engineers, and their videos are anything but boring but they must get bored like nobody's business... who on earth has ideas like this?
Would have been cool to see all of those drills turning custom cut drive gears/sprockets mounted on a flat steel panel perpendicular to the drive gear to a pinion gear. Would be an art piece
Ah yes, the classic Star-50 engine, used in WW2 Soviet vehicles like the Tupolev TB-3 lawnmower and the Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-3 cement mixer xD All jokes aside, this is an incredible build. Very stupid, but in the best way, and I'm impressed by the craftsmanship and problem solving 👍 Excited for the next episode already
Does the small light stay on after you stop using the drill? The 5 seconds that the light stays on might be keeping the other drills running on their own. Do they keep running on their own after 5 or 10 seconds? Just an idea!
Maybe the cheapest solution is pushing the triggers with an servo powered mechanical system, like a camshaft that when rotate push the triggers more or less depending on the rotation controled by a single servo motor
Fix: go for "Bicycle breake-lines", that way, the Screwdrivers are untouched (good for the sponsor). This wont be easy to match, but its a pure mechanical solution.. At Full Throttle all should be aligned again. Question: what happens if you release power? the crank will rotate further, and can destroy the screwdrivers.. so you may have to clutch a lot, or come up with some slip.
If it's only the 2 gears and no adjusting you could have a 3 point flip switch on the gear knob, like trucks have for lower and higher gears. The 3rd switch option is the off setting. Then you have all gears in lower rpm and all gears in higher rpm AND 2 gears for reverse 😁👍
The drills trigger is variable that's what the circuit boards are for and why you were having such weird results trying to use them. Maybe instead of sticking the wires together run them to a potentiometer so you have speed adjustment to the drills.
the mosfets don't control anything, they are basically solid state switches, that's why everything kept burning out and acting weird they should still come up with some type of variable resistor, or at least some stepped switch system with fixed value resistors, because all these drills together will generate like 1000NM of torque at the transmission input shaft, well enough to instantly break the transmission if they just go full throttle
The transistors are different in their molecular level so when 1 transistor is closed the others will too but when it opens there's still voltage on the other transistor that leaves it in an open state when he disconnected the battery for a good while the voltage dropped and the transitor went to its original open state
You have to replace every switch with a relay and connect every toggle pin from the relay to a single pushbutton. That's the "dumbest" solution, it might have some drawbacks, but its pretty intuitive and error proof.
At 7:48 minutes the clowns definitely came out.... Front side of the belt back side of the belt and yes I understand the drills can run both directions 🤣
If drills has built mechanical brake which prevents rotating spindle when motor doesnt work inside gearbox, it will destroy gearbox of first drill which suddenly stops or unscrew all pulleys when you put it in car and and disconnect power when car is in movement.
Might be less ghetto. But you could run them with a golf cart controller. You would have to wire the batteries to supply the higher voltage needed by the controller. But speed would be variable. It would have a higher speed potential also. As for how long the motors would last at that voltage? Certainly long enough for a drive and a burnout!
I would have ran all the motor leads to one central power controller point and used one single drill controller to drive a large power IGBT of Mosfet that runs all the motors at once.
Soldier a wire on to pin1 for each semiconductor you might have to disconnect it from the rest of the circuit board but then soldier that wire to one of the control box the motor live wire to control the pwm, if you look up diy speed controller on TH-cam you’ll figure it out
Tesla motor can eat dirt, the 50 SDP (screwdriver power) is here
On another note, I’m actually impressed with how good this teams fabrication skills have gotten
I like your PFP 😊
ALL of a testa can be a cannibal and eat 💩
@ 🤘 love from West Virginia
Tesla as a whole is a complete joke lol 😂
I can't understand how you are always able to surprise me
😊
I'm confused how you don't even have a million subs yet come up and create ideas that no one on earth even contemplates let alone does. This is so mind blowing its unreal.
Because of the war with ukraine. As this is a russian channel is it not recommended as much. But dont belive me, look at the views of their videos in the past 2 years (during war), and videos older than 3-4 years (before war)
Yep America is trying to suppress anything positive about Russian culture or People. Sad, truly sad.
@@Florinutzzzzz Yeah its this. Russia makes it hard for them too due to all the new sanctions/blocks. I assume they are doing all there content uploads and socials through VPNs.
@Florinutzzzzz I did feel like it's a political target. No way they haven't got the subs due to quality
This isn't their main channel. They have 4.75m on their Russian channel.
5:19 transistor matching. If they're not matched, current will feed into each other. Other option is to isolate/buffer them (diodes? Opto-isolation? Gates [multiple xistor]?)
7:15 well no shit if they're dc motors why were you burning silicon fumes in the first place 😂 that shit ain't healthy
Maybe there mosfets thats why when u apply voltage it stays on u need to ground them or remove the charge applied somehow
@@forbiddenera Because the trigger can control the speed of the drills like a throttle in a car instead of the motors only being on or off.
No, it's issues with driving them and parasitic inductance. That's PWM control, which involves turning the transistors on and off quickly so they don't dissipate heat of their own.
The way to do this would be to have a single pot controlling a single chip, with multiple mosfets in a bank (with sources on ballast resistors) via a suitable driver chip to ensure the gates go high/low as fast as possible on transitions. Look inside high power inverters for an idea on how this is typically done.
@@MadScientist267 could it be fix using a resistor to remove the inductance from the signal wire to ground?
Seeing your exploits always brings me joy!
This has got to be one of the top 5 best channels on TH-cam 👍🏿
Whats the other 4?
Feels like a hidden gem. It's definitely the only Russian language channel I watch.
When you get a temu coupon for 99% off lol
Buy one get 50 free 😂
Sounds like you're getting capacitance charge in the gate of your mosfet. If you connect a high resistance resistor from the gate to ground, that'll prevent it from getting stuck on
This is exactly what I think is happening, especially if he’s typing multiple gates together
@@zaydabbas1609 with different power sources. a diode between and a pull down resistor as oskiv says
Just needs to defrag the BIOS and update the psu's firmware. Then uninstall the quad bond injector. Simple
this is why I love these guys hahaha
Forreal, some of the ideas are so stupid but they make it work anyway, its great!
me three!
Finally, a mechanic friendly EV design.
And only 50 batteries to remove, recharge and replace 3/4 of them on the sides or underneath.
You keep blowing my mind with these insanely awesome projects!
A 48-screwdriver 6-radial engine.
With your direct wire method, might as well use ESC for RC cars (check if battery voltage is OK for it) and use a transceiver or "servo tester" to control the motor speed at once. Just hook the output of the transceiver or "servo tester" into the corresponding signal input for the ESC, might need to check pinouts - test with one or two of them first!
This is what i would have done too.
Not sure about that because so many ESC are gonna be so expensive
my esc button is plastic and does not work for rc anything.
@@pierrejeanes If they use the cheap ESC you can get, and maybe 10 or 20 ish amps...if they paid for all the drills it won't be that expensive
Or someone in their region can mod the existing ESC in the drills to do the same job
the control boards typically have x2 50Amp transistors, 1 for forward and 1 reverse, so you lose power directly as the transistors bump up the power.
they probably just needed to fit diodes between each module to prevent backfeeding
Million subs incoming. Going to be a party when it hits!
Run diodes inline for the switches, or have a separate triggered relay connect them all - isolate the trigger from the signal.
Au ludilo, jedva cekam drugi deo 😉
Since you direct shorting the motors, use solid stat transistors matched to banks of the screw driver motors, then control the transistors with pulse width modulation. That way you get variable rpm but full torque
Try CALCIUM CARBIDE for fuel, it has way more power potential than wood.
Use a relay to switch them on. Low power switch to energize a high power relay
I can't believe how you always come up with genius ideas
Bleed resistors. Chances are that your switch output is floating after being triggered. Something like a 10k-100k resistor between the switch output wires would probably do it.
Recommend looking up "PWM Controller" ("ШИМ-контроллер"). These are usually cheap and easy to source. That said, you might be able to pull a few of them from used treadmills or other DC driven systems. This would also support use of a single power source which would be easy to disable in an emergency.
Those drills are powered by little 550 motors. If you ever do something like this again, perhaps just pull the motors. This could allow for a much more simple design.
Hemi orange! 👌🤣👍👉❤️ man I can’t wait to see this concoction driving a car! And the surprises keep on coming!
Needs more diodes
My initial impression is that one drill powered up is back feeding to the others
Yep. Or they need ran individually though something like mosfets and 555 timers all fed by a common variable resistor.
diodegonewild
yeah, i used to work with power electronics, and it was very susceptible to it's own electrical"noise". the screened wire was a step in the right direction, but your approach of ditching the existing speed controller is best.
Chainsaw engine will be hard to beat!
Fun Idea . Merry Christmas .
The transistors are dying because the chip doesn't have much headroom to drive a lot more than one at a time. Transistors end up under-driven, the junction dissipates lots of power, overheats and dies.
after its up and running...slap it on a dyno to see how much torque its putting out 🤩
use a motorcycle starter solanoid..itll handle the current no problem..
then just wire up a button to make the motors start etc
50 motors at 5 amps start up is 250 amps but posibly far more getting the car moving a 5 ah battery will not last 1 hour so more like 20 -30 min at low speed so 500 amps
Very good experiment.
The most important thing is that the control boards will also have a low-voltage cutoff; without the control board, you can drain the lithium battery too low, and it may catch fire (will be good for the next video, but bring a fire extinguisher!);
The biggest risk is recharging them. Place the batteries on a concrete floor with nothing flammable nearby when charging - also the smoke from a burning / venting lithium battery is much more toxic than anything you have done on cars previously.
Looking forward to part 2!
Awesome stuff. Very cool. Cant wait to see the transmission.
Solid!
Top KEK!
Peace be with you.
I was gonna say Electro Boom could help you out....
A unique talented program. I love you guys. 😊
I love these guys, true engineers, and their videos are anything but boring but they must get bored like nobody's business... who on earth has ideas like this?
From Yonkers New York number one
Believe it or not but I actually grew up in New York and used to spend a lot of time in Yonkers when I was young.
Would have been cool to see all of those drills turning custom cut drive gears/sprockets mounted on a flat steel panel perpendicular to the drive gear to a pinion gear. Would be an art piece
Thsi is absolute madness. Amazing😊
that reversed welding shot was actually sick af
Ngl, one of your lads could look into custom Arduino's for the weird electric stuff like this which could translate into a new skill for your shop.
I love this channel
You fellows have some amazing ideas. It looks like a Pratt+Whitney Wasp engine! Thanks for a very entertaining yt channel ! 🌞
best car channel
What a cool idea!
Garage 54 be like: that has engine let's put it into a car
Today we'll swap a lada engine with a lada!
Ah yes, the classic Star-50 engine, used in WW2 Soviet vehicles like the Tupolev TB-3 lawnmower and the Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-3 cement mixer xD
All jokes aside, this is an incredible build. Very stupid, but in the best way, and I'm impressed by the craftsmanship and problem solving 👍 Excited for the next episode already
Add relays (like the ones found in fuse boxes in cars) to each drill button and keep the electronic boards for throttle control.
My name isn't Olivia, but I love your videos as much as Olivia does.
😂😂 i love GARAGE 54 💓💓😂😂
Does the small light stay on after you stop using the drill? The 5 seconds that the light stays on might be keeping the other drills running on their own. Do they keep running on their own after 5 or 10 seconds? Just an idea!
I am so happy about this. I was thinking of running just 6 drills together on a car to bring up to maybe 35mph
You are the craziest man doing the most insane things on TH-cam... and you are amazing for it all
Full out put
Maybe the cheapest solution is pushing the triggers with an servo powered mechanical system, like a camshaft that when rotate push the triggers more or less depending on the rotation controled by a single servo motor
Looks really cool guys. Good wrk.
Have a feeling this is gonna be an epic build :)
Looks awesome!!
so much fun. you guys make me happy watching your videos.
Witam ! Oglądam plus łapka w górę za informacje jakie zamieszczasz na kanale !
So many bots. Why so many named Olivia? 😂
One day y'all gotta put everything that you can together in one car. Coal fed, Chainsaw V16, starter AWD Lada
Recharging those 50 batteries is going to be a whole lotta fun 😂.
Fix:
go for "Bicycle breake-lines", that way, the Screwdrivers are untouched (good for the sponsor).
This wont be easy to match, but its a pure mechanical solution.. At Full Throttle all should be aligned again.
Question: what happens if you release power? the crank will rotate further, and can destroy the screwdrivers.. so you may have to clutch a lot, or come up with some slip.
Can't wait to see! 🤙
Fuggin awsome.
OLOLOL That is way too cool
It looks great.
I would add cables for a charging circuit.
So you don’t have to take the batteries out.
If it's only the 2 gears and no adjusting you could have a 3 point flip switch on the gear knob, like trucks have for lower and higher gears. The 3rd switch option is the off setting. Then you have all gears in lower rpm and all gears in higher rpm AND 2 gears for reverse 😁👍
Bring back the chainsaw v16 please
Very Interesting..!!!
G'day Garage54 & BMI,
AWESOME! using Drills to do something fun instead of "Boring" 😂
🎄Merry Christmas🎄& 🥳🎉Happy New Year🥳🎉
I would skip the drill batteries, instead use multiple 12 volt car/truck batteries and wire them up for 24 volts.
Officially this video is a promo video (according they main russian channel) to promote this screwdriver's developer
Just when I thought Garage 54 had every done every Lada modification experiment possible, what's next lol.
The drills trigger is variable that's what the circuit boards are for and why you were having such weird results trying to use them. Maybe instead of sticking the wires together run them to a potentiometer so you have speed adjustment to the drills.
the mosfets don't control anything, they are basically solid state switches, that's why everything kept burning out and acting weird
they should still come up with some type of variable resistor, or at least some stepped switch system with fixed value resistors, because all these drills together will generate like 1000NM of torque at the transmission input shaft, well enough to instantly break the transmission if they just go full throttle
My favorite Russians do it again . LOL
now put back just one electronic module with a much higher current capability for those transistors and that way you will have variable rotation
Just continue to keep it simple. Maybe make it two speed with a resistor wire. like long 8 gage or 6 gage wire cooled in water.
I always thought so, but now I know for sure...... You are all CRAZY.... But i love it LOL
The transistors are different in their molecular level so when 1 transistor is closed the others will too but when it opens there's still voltage on the other transistor that leaves it in an open state when he disconnected the battery for a good while the voltage dropped and the transitor went to its original open state
Nice!!!
you could also try an electrical 50 small wheel drive , on a lada of course
it would be really interesting to do this with impacts drivers
You have to replace every switch with a relay and connect every toggle pin from the relay to a single pushbutton. That's the "dumbest" solution, it might have some drawbacks, but its pretty intuitive and error proof.
At 7:48 minutes the clowns definitely came out.... Front side of the belt back side of the belt and yes I understand the drills can run both directions 🤣
you need to isolate the signal to each trigger as that is causing the issue. You cannot connect unmatched transistors to each other.
Genius x 💯💯💯💯💯
Hello there! Have a great Weekend!🙌🏼🙌🏼 And Happy holidays!🎅🎁🎄🎊
aw thr v16 was a masterpiece that just needed tuneing lol.
didnt even dyno it... but you did show us how.
If drills has built mechanical brake which prevents rotating spindle when motor doesnt work inside gearbox, it will destroy gearbox of first drill which suddenly stops or unscrew all pulleys when you put it in car and and disconnect power when car is in movement.
Wire a potentiometer to the "main all cables together" switch and of you go
Might be less ghetto. But you could run them with a golf cart controller. You would have to wire the batteries to supply the higher voltage needed by the controller. But speed would be variable. It would have a higher speed potential also. As for how long the motors would last at that voltage? Certainly long enough for a drive and a burnout!
Its just hillarious best greetings from germany,we are most love russia,and do not hate what the west media speaks about !!!!!!
I would have ran all the motor leads to one central power controller point and used one single drill controller to drive a large power IGBT of Mosfet that runs all the motors at once.
Soldier a wire on to pin1 for each semiconductor you might have to disconnect it from the rest of the circuit board but then soldier that wire to one of the control box the motor live wire to control the pwm, if you look up diy speed controller on TH-cam you’ll figure it out
5:34 Was one transistor burnt out in the group or all of them? This might help a little to understand what went wrong.
Turn it into a DRONE
50 motors and one high-voltage-capable switch.