Sidenote people, for TTX Tech & Cirka controllers, keep the potentiometer stick boxes from the Official Nintendo controller, I modded my Cirka controller and it makes a world of difference, don't use the potentiometers from the 3rd party controllers or the ones that come with the new sticks on ebay, use the sticks but keep the potentiometers from the Nintendo brand controller.
That damn Z button, always being a pain in the ass upon reassembly. Glad to see I'm not the only person with a big bag of joystick modules. I repair so many controllers it isn't funny.
Best way to check if the analogue stick works is by testing with F-Zero GX. It has a special controller calibration in the Options menu which gives you a nice graph of the raw analogue values the console reads off the controller.
I have been looking for good sources for new analog sticks. Where did you buy those, should I try the amazon ones? I have a customized controller I want to rebuild without sacking other okay controllers I have.
@@RetroRepairs A bit late but I have an NGC gamepad from a GC I bought, noticed the dpad wasn't working... took it appart and discovered the PCB is shattered just on the line along the dpad... fixable ?
Nice video, as always I would suggest adjusting the video title. You did not fix the stick, but replace it. I think these are different kind of repairs and it is important not to confuse them. Thank you
Spiderman Stunts some people like a nice moist sponge to dab the residue off, I prefer the hard abrasive brass. You can really feel the cleaning happen
You should check the stick of every gamecube controller with the "F-ZERO GX" game. When you go to options of that game you can see how centralized is the stick more accurately. Greetings from argentina
Just a tip. If you skipped the step where you braid the first time you would have a lot easier time getting it off. The heat will stay longer and easier to heat all 3 pads at once. Getting the heat to spread through a wicked pad is really hard, the surfacearea are just so much smaller.
i dunno man, the actual shape of the controller fooled me. Looks like it tried pretty hard to feel authentic. Way better than a gamestop brand that looks like a turd
So I noticed you used a third party stickbox to replace, I always wanted to buy one but people usually say they wear off (get loose and woobly) extremely quickly, how long did your last in good condition? (hoping you still replying to these)
A few months late, but I'd check your local thrift store or Goodwill for Wii Nunchucks, or perhaps PS1 or Gamecube controllers, you can just use their stickboxes, it's the closest to OEM you're gonna get.
@@FIGHTERSCHOICEArcade Actually Turbo is for the face buttons it's a rapid fire on the buttons, I tried it out once for LOL's and it shockingly worked.
@@FIGHTERSCHOICEArcade It is, you can also find those on the iConcept Fury controller and Arsenal Gaming controller I have a black Arsenal gaming controller and it's similar to the controller shown in the video when it's disassembled, but the left stick is miles better and less likely to crap out.
What is a seller that will sell actual quality ones? they all seem to look the same so im not sure if there's only one manufacturer. I installed the ones on amazon sold by Ambertown and they're tight and work perfectly for about 10 or 15 minutes before they start acting moving in directions that they're not being moved to. I unplug and replug them and they keep moving weird. Its weird because if I wait till the next day, they work perfect again for the same 10 or 15 minutes before they start acting up again. My only guess is because maybe they're overheating or something and when I try the next day they're cool. Any ideas? Anyway if someone could give me a specific seller that sells good ones it would be huge help.
That's a TTX tech controller, Cirka has better joysticks but worse potentiometers, I tried both controllers and that's definitely a TTX Tech branded controller.
Yeah, I've seen that in alot of videos. They usually use liquid flux, and end up wasting a ton. Just more to clean up too, since you don't want flux sitting on your board once you're done either.
For the wavebird it's very similar except it is necessary to desolder the battery connectors from the board to be able to remove the black plastic that holds the trigger PCB's. Once the battery terminals are desoldered the plastic can be removed and then desolder the joystick and solder in a new one. Put back the plastic and solder the battery connectors back in place. It's pretty straight forward once you know to remove the battery terminals. I just did this last week to an old wavebird who's joystick was floppy.
Again, mentioned in the video. The point of this is to show how to replace it, the same technique can be used on a real controller. I'm aware I can go on eBay and buy another for about $5
"It's important to take it slow, not to break the pads." He said, and after that gets impatient and breaks a pad :P
he’s advising us, not himself
Sidenote people, for TTX Tech & Cirka controllers, keep the potentiometer stick boxes from the Official Nintendo controller, I modded my Cirka controller and it makes a world of difference, don't use the potentiometers from the 3rd party controllers or the ones that come with the new sticks on ebay, use the sticks but keep the potentiometers from the Nintendo brand controller.
That damn Z button, always being a pain in the ass upon reassembly.
Glad to see I'm not the only person with a big bag of joystick modules. I repair so many controllers it isn't funny.
William Fogle do replacements work as well as originals?
Followed directions pretty close as much as I could and joystick can’t be read. What did I do wrong?
Best way to check if the analogue stick works is by testing with F-Zero GX. It has a special controller calibration in the Options menu which gives you a nice graph of the raw analogue values the console reads off the controller.
I have been looking for good sources for new analog sticks. Where did you buy those, should I try the amazon ones? I have a customized controller I want to rebuild without sacking other okay controllers I have.
That's 6 screws, not 4. :P
Was hoping you wouldn't catch that
@@RetroRepairs A bit late but I have an NGC gamepad from a GC I bought, noticed the dpad wasn't working... took it appart and discovered the PCB is shattered just on the line along the dpad... fixable ?
@@startide im not really a gamecube controller expert, but i think asking reddit might help
@@DxnH thank you, good call
Thanks Captain Obvious
Nice video, as always
I would suggest adjusting the video title. You did not fix the stick, but replace it. I think these are different kind of repairs and it is important not to confuse them.
Thank you
Always a good idea to clean your tip, dont need to get into a sticky situation with a dirty tip lol
Spiderman Stunts some people like a nice moist sponge to dab the residue off, I prefer the hard abrasive brass. You can really feel the cleaning happen
This will also work with Wii Nunchuks "3rd party ones too"
You should check the stick of every gamecube controller with the "F-ZERO GX" game. When you go to options of that game you can see how centralized is the stick more accurately. Greetings from argentina
Just a tip. If you skipped the step where you braid the first time you would have a lot easier time getting it off. The heat will stay longer and easier to heat all 3 pads at once. Getting the heat to spread through a wicked pad is really hard, the surfacearea are just so much smaller.
Love your vids always help me relax at night keep it up!
allways clean your tip ;p
I thought the exact same thing lol
Thank you, this is exactly what i was looking for :)
Love the videos very informative and entertaining to watch in general.
you broke one of those pads for the leads off the bronze one
if it's not nintendo oem its not worth repairing
i dunno man, the actual shape of the controller fooled me. Looks like it tried pretty hard to feel authentic. Way better than a gamestop brand that looks like a turd
In some ways it kinda is it's Madcatz ones that don't deserve repairing.
Say ITV louder for the people in the back
Subbed. Very relaxing videos
So I noticed you used a third party stickbox to replace, I always wanted to buy one but people usually say they wear off (get loose and woobly) extremely quickly, how long did your last in good condition? (hoping you still replying to these)
A few months late, but I'd check your local thrift store or Goodwill for Wii Nunchucks, or perhaps PS1 or Gamecube controllers, you can just use their stickboxes, it's the closest to OEM you're gonna get.
I don't use it a ton, but it's been a year and still good
what about the SLOW and TURBO buttons on the PCB ? did you try using them for fun ?
Micks they dont do anything. The turbo does nothing and the slow just pauses
@@FIGHTERSCHOICEArcade Actually Turbo is for the face buttons it's a rapid fire on the buttons, I tried it out once for LOL's and it shockingly worked.
cutemimi25 really? That’s pretty cool!
@@FIGHTERSCHOICEArcade It is, you can also find those on the iConcept Fury controller and Arsenal Gaming controller I have a black Arsenal gaming controller and it's similar to the controller shown in the video when it's disassembled, but the left stick is miles better and less likely to crap out.
There are 4 screws we need to undo
*proceeds to count 6 screws*
Thedarkslender Thedarkslender math is hard...
2:13 prepare for some retrorepairs ASMR.
Woe, I have never in my life seen a GameCube controler stick die...
Wait nvmd, its 3rd party.
I see that all the time.
I have, not as common as the N64, but still something that can happen.
Watch some videos about competitive Smash and you'll see plenty.
I've seen plenty. Years of Smash Bros, or if you leave the controller face down too long
What is a seller that will sell actual quality ones? they all seem to look the same so im not sure if there's only one manufacturer. I installed the ones on amazon sold by Ambertown and they're tight and work perfectly for about 10 or 15 minutes before they start acting moving in directions that they're not being moved to. I unplug and replug them and they keep moving weird. Its weird because if I wait till the next day, they work perfect again for the same 10 or 15 minutes before they start acting up again. My only guess is because maybe they're overheating or something and when I try the next day they're cool. Any ideas? Anyway if someone could give me a specific seller that sells good ones it would be huge help.
Carlos Rivera powerA
uses soldering iron to bend leads. almost destroys pad...
Is this a Hais third party controller? I have one that looks similar and has the same problem with the left stick. Nice video
Not sure who made it, it was some cheap 3rd party controller though, yes.
Yes. I need that one. 🙆🏽♀️
I heard the these replacements don’t last as long as the originals.
What are boards made of? I never understood why the board does get burned or melted
jonny f5ve usually a special fibreglass
Awesome video
I'm trying to fix an authentic controller with a bad joystick and the new one doesn't fit. Any advice?
Did you buy the right one? What doesn't fit?
Does the replacement stick look like mine?
That's a TTX tech controller, Cirka has better joysticks but worse potentiometers, I tried both controllers and that's definitely a TTX Tech branded controller.
That's TTX tech my friend, Cirka has much nicer thumbsticks.
th-cam.com/video/drXaioOmK5Y/w-d-xo.html
Where did you get replacement parts?
Depending on what I need, either eBay, or digikey
RetroRepairs These stick boxes, specifically
Follow-up: I got mine from AliExpress. And I've fixed my controller. Thanks for the video!
How come you never use flux?
Cyber Gaming Studios i use a flux pen, and used it in this video too
Some people just love using flux. They pour it all over the place. It's not like you have to.
Yeah, I've seen that in alot of videos. They usually use liquid flux, and end up wasting a ton. Just more to clean up too, since you don't want flux sitting on your board once you're done either.
RetroRepairs Have you used a fiberglass pen for cleaning corrosion?
Does anybody know if it is a similar method for the Wavebird GameCube controller?
For the wavebird it's very similar except it is necessary to desolder the battery connectors from the board to be able to remove the black plastic that holds the trigger PCB's. Once the battery terminals are desoldered the plastic can be removed and then desolder the joystick and solder in a new one. Put back the plastic and solder the battery connectors back in place. It's pretty straight forward once you know to remove the battery terminals. I just did this last week to an old wavebird who's joystick was floppy.
How the ass are you able to grab the braid so easyle, for me that thing got heated at the moment and is imposible to hold
try some nitrile gloves
shame about that. dualshock 4 doesn’t require any soldering or de-.
Sir I have a ps1 that don’t work can u make one on the ps1 please thank u
If I find a ps1 that doesn't work I'll give it a go
Cool video😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎
I want to fix the box without buying a new one
Good luck. You would have to somehow disassemble the joystick, then replace the elastic pieces that center it.
ey, thanks
I woudn't call a replacement a repair. I could repair my starter motor, or replace it.
Some components aren't repairable. These thumbsticks aren't repairable, they need to be replaced.
Enjoy your videos, but please get rid of that disgusting towel!
why bother, just buy a new one for a buck
Again, mentioned in the video.
The point of this is to show how to replace it, the same technique can be used on a real controller. I'm aware I can go on eBay and buy another for about $5
It is real though? I can see it, and it operates like a genuine one.
Gamecube controllers are like 30 bucks used lol. Brand new they're like 100. Definitely worth repairing.
Exactly why bother buy another one when you can repair it yourself and get more experience from it.
Second
who repairs 3rd party game cube controllers?!
amazing video btw
I just repaired my 3rd party Switch controller last night so yeah, me 😁
early
"fixing floppy GameCube controller.... err what?
FIRST