Well, if you’re like me, who spent most of my life on the tip of an island where the closest club or range was an hour away, videos are pretty damn handy, and cheap.🏹
Elton, these explanations are clearer and more comprehensive than even some of the "big names" out there. I really appreciate you putting this info out in a way that is easy for beginners to reference.
Awesome, Elton. Clear and precise. You are so calm..always in the zen? So knowledgeable..and thank you so much for sharing and taking the time to produce such fan-flippin-tastic vids. Keep it up. May the force be with you.
Great tip Coach! This is the best explanation on cenrtering the strong onthe planeo of the riser that does not depend on error prone practive of viewing the riser from a distance from behind. By using this tip I fixed a pervasive problem on my bow alignment that not even a seasoned archer/coach was able to fix. This method provedes confidence and peace of mind that your bow is really aligned. That of course depends on having a decent build quality. Thank you for sharing. 🎯
Thanks for the best explanation I've ever seen! Just one thing: If you turn the tillerbolts with the bowstring on the limbs, you will damage the riser. The steel bolts will cut the alloy like a hot knive the butter. I have the the same riser and I didn't remove the string befor turning the tillerbolts. The result after 3 to 4 times tuning was a unuseable riser due to not enough material in the riser holes for the tillerbolts. The risk of pulling out the bolts at full draw was too high, so I decided not to use the riser any more!
There is supposed to be a molybdenum type anti-sieze lubricant on the threads; this generally prevents the bolt threads from cutting into the riser threads in the hole. But if a person is concerned about potential damage, then yes they should always de-string before each adjustment. (This is why I specifically mention it in the video)
Your delivery content and video qualityares impeccable! I enjoy watching this a lot even though I have done all this many times before you only added to my knowledge.
Observation, Centimeters rather than millimeters on the bow square when measuring tiller. 2.54 cm per inch for those of use still using the Imperial system,
Yes! Sorry, it was an error of speech; unfortunately there’s no way for me to correct it once the video was published. Approximately 18.5 cm was the distance from limb surface to string.
Thank you so much, this is a trove of golden nuggets of information for a beginner like myself! One question: wouldn’t doing only the plane adjustment solve both that alignment and the limbs alignment at the same time?
Thank you! While I do tend to travel a lot, I’m not in either of those states. I’m based out of eastern Pennsylvania currently. 😎 perhaps you’ve seen me at one of many different tournament events?
Could you please post a link for tuning forks? Edit : They actually seem to be discontinued, any other way to tune the string to true center without this tool?
This is a topic covered in many other videos, articles and discussions across the internet, so I didn’t feel it critical to re-hash it and consume video time. The basics of it, is to have a friend or helper mark an arrow shaft with a sharpie at the front edge (target facing side) of the riser when you are holding at anchor while in the best alignment possible with good form. This measurement from nock to the mark is typically known as your AMO draw length. For odd shaped risers, you can also mark the distance at the plunger hole instead, and add 1.75”. Proper form and the best alignment possible is the key to getting an accurate draw length measurement.
Pardon the remedial question but are you suggesting that the only reason to remove the string before making these micro adjustments is to preserve the limb for resale? Is the limb really so delicate? Thanks. (Great video!!)
Essentially. The finish on the limbs can be scratched on the underside of the limb root if adjustments are made without de-tensioning the string. While some archers may not care about those aesthetic changes, there are some that would prefer them to not be there (or minimized) in the second hand market. This is why I generally teach it to be a practical habit; If the archer learns, then chooses not to care and makes adjustments under tension, they go into it conscious of what they are doing. From a structural and functional perspective, it would take an inordinate amount of scratching to work all the way through the clear coat finish and to start damaging the actual limb root. So functionally, the limb will not be affected; as such I would not refer to the limb as delicate, only the clear coat finish applied for aesthetics.
Using the stabilizer holes falls in the category of ‘arbitrary reference point’ in my opinion. First, there is no guarantee that it is properly centered; it is often just a steel threaded collar that is pressed into a drilled hole in the aluminum. Second, and most important; we don’t press with our grip hand on the stabilizer hole; we press on the grip, which means the grip area is the critical area to align the plane to in order to avoid unwanted torque effects from being out of plane.
@@barebowbasicsThank you for your reply! Will try this on my next tuning session. Btw, I was the buyer of your orange Jager JD3 grip that you sold quite awhile back.
It’s a bow jack. Simple stand used by many compound archers. Many barebow archers have found it to be an ideal stand as well. lancasterarchery.com/products/truglo-bow-jack
Quick question regarding bow length for a taller shooter (6'4) with a 30" draw - im looking to buy my first barebow setup and was told to go cheap at first. I want to aim for a 72" rig meaning I would need to get a 27" riser. These usually cost a couple hundred dollars more than a "cheap" 25" riser, $130 vs ($300-400 for an entry 27"). Id like to learn good technique with a 72" bow but not sure the cost difference is worth it compared to a 70", what do you think? One other question, i viewed your form video but you didnt touch on hook release, ive heard different opinions on how we are supposed to release the string, could you please give your input? Thanks!
There’s two questions here, so I’ll address the quick one first. Shot execution (release) is a topic I haven’t covered yet. It is forthcoming though, likely the next segment as it completes my discussion on the entire shot cycle. I cannot do it justice trying to explain it here in a comment reply unfortunately, so please stay tuned. The more complex answer for what riser to get depends on how committed you are to learning the sport and discipline. While there are many archers who have shot 25” risers with long limbs successfully for decades, even with a longer 30” draw length, if you feel you are going to pursue competition seriously, my normal recommendation is to spend the extra for the 27”. If this pushes your budget a bit, see if you can find a used riser, as there are often many available. (My friend Peter is selling a great Gillo g1 right now for example) If you aren’t at a point where you are confident you will truly pursue competition, then a 25” riser with decently designed long limbs will certainly work great for recreational use. Too many people forget that using that combo has successfully won many state and national titles, before 27” riser prevalence became mainstream.
Unfortunately they discontinued production a few years ago. Occasionally you’ll see a set come up for sale on the used market; they disappear pretty fast though due to demand. If everyone were willing to pay a premium for a set, and gets in touch with Keith Shetler, the original designer and producer, perhaps he would reconsider making another batch. I happen to have two sets from the original kick starter, and having lived with them for years now, if I somehow lost mine, I’d easily pay $50+ for a new set in a heart beat; they’re just THAT good in my opinion.
When I found out about them they had just gone out of stock. Unfortunately the original maker decided to not make anymore but luckily was able to buy a second hand one. I too would be willing to pay a premium if the original maker decided to make another batch and buy a few in a heart beat! If he actually does someone please reach out to me!
This is, hands down, the clearest and most concise explanation of bow tuning I have ever heard. Thank you SO much!!!
Never could understand how one can find better coaching on TH-cam than an archery club, THANK YOU
Well, if you’re like me, who spent most of my life on the tip of an island where the closest club or range was an hour away, videos are pretty damn handy, and cheap.🏹
The contents of this channel are super concise and clear. Glad that I found it
Bernie brought me an ilf riser so this session is mandatory ... thank you Elton
Elton, these explanations are clearer and more comprehensive than even some of the "big names" out there. I really appreciate you putting this info out in a way that is easy for beginners to reference.
Hear hear
Awfully clear and precise explanation. Much better than I have seen in other videos. Thanks.
Fantastic! I've never found this information so clearly demonstrated. Thanks
very helpful instructions.
Really awesome work. Best explanation i saw so far.
Awesome, Elton. Clear and precise. You are so calm..always in the zen? So knowledgeable..and thank you so much for sharing and taking the time to produce such fan-flippin-tastic vids. Keep it up. May the force be with you.
Great tip Coach! This is the best explanation on cenrtering the strong onthe planeo of the riser that does not depend on error prone practive of viewing the riser from a distance from behind. By using this tip I fixed a pervasive problem on my bow alignment that not even a seasoned archer/coach was able to fix. This method provedes confidence and peace of mind that your bow is really aligned. That of course depends on having a decent build quality. Thank you for sharing. 🎯
Excuse my multiple writing errors ! Writing on phones is never better than using a full keyboard. I am glad you got the meaning. 👌
Barebow should be renamed modern barebow
Dang. This is so helpful! Thank you very much!
Great video. Keep going. Thanks to you I finaly bought my new bow after 7 years not shooting. Nice.
Great video.
I hadn't seen that on plane test. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the best explanation I've ever seen!
Just one thing:
If you turn the tillerbolts with the bowstring on the limbs, you will damage the riser. The steel bolts will cut the alloy like a hot knive the butter.
I have the the same riser and I didn't remove the string befor turning the tillerbolts. The result after 3 to 4 times tuning was a unuseable riser due to not enough material in the riser holes for the tillerbolts. The risk of pulling out the bolts at full draw was too high, so I decided not to use the riser any more!
There is supposed to be a molybdenum type anti-sieze lubricant on the threads; this generally prevents the bolt threads from cutting into the riser threads in the hole. But if a person is concerned about potential damage, then yes they should always de-string before each adjustment. (This is why I specifically mention it in the video)
Your delivery content and video qualityares impeccable! I enjoy watching this a lot even though I have done all this many times before you only added to my knowledge.
Thank you for explaining into details.
you're a legend, thanks Elton!
Excellent! I am learning so much. Thank you thank you.
Observation, Centimeters rather than millimeters on the bow square when measuring tiller. 2.54 cm per inch for those of use still using the Imperial system,
Whoops. lol 😁
Did you mean 18.5 "cm" instead of 18.5 "mm" (at around 8:50)?
Yes! Sorry, it was an error of speech; unfortunately there’s no way for me to correct it once the video was published. Approximately 18.5 cm was the distance from limb surface to string.
Thank you so much, this is a trove of golden nuggets of information for a beginner like myself!
One question: wouldn’t doing only the plane adjustment solve both that alignment and the limbs alignment at the same time?
@@NotTheLarryDavid No. you can seem to be on plane (centered near the grip area of riser) but have opposing limb alignment issues on each end.
Great video Elton! Are you in Massachusetts or New Hampshire? You look familiar.
Thank you! While I do tend to travel a lot, I’m not in either of those states. I’m based out of eastern Pennsylvania currently. 😎 perhaps you’ve seen me at one of many different tournament events?
Could you please post a link for tuning forks?
Edit : They actually seem to be discontinued, any other way to tune the string to true center without this tool?
Many generally use Beiter Limb Line Gauges. While not as good as the tuning forks, they do serve the purpose and help get the job done.
How do you determine your draw length?
This is a topic covered in many other videos, articles and discussions across the internet, so I didn’t feel it critical to re-hash it and consume video time. The basics of it, is to have a friend or helper mark an arrow shaft with a sharpie at the front edge (target facing side) of the riser when you are holding at anchor while in the best alignment possible with good form. This measurement from nock to the mark is typically known as your AMO draw length. For odd shaped risers, you can also mark the distance at the plunger hole instead, and add 1.75”. Proper form and the best alignment possible is the key to getting an accurate draw length measurement.
Pardon the remedial question but are you suggesting that the only reason to remove the string before making these micro adjustments is to preserve the limb for resale? Is the limb really so delicate? Thanks. (Great video!!)
Essentially. The finish on the limbs can be scratched on the underside of the limb root if adjustments are made without de-tensioning the string. While some archers may not care about those aesthetic changes, there are some that would prefer them to not be there (or minimized) in the second hand market. This is why I generally teach it to be a practical habit; If the archer learns, then chooses not to care and makes adjustments under tension, they go into it conscious of what they are doing.
From a structural and functional perspective, it would take an inordinate amount of scratching to work all the way through the clear coat finish and to start damaging the actual limb root. So functionally, the limb will not be affected; as such I would not refer to the limb as delicate, only the clear coat finish applied for aesthetics.
Would the on-plane test be similar to aligning with the front stab?
Using the stabilizer holes falls in the category of ‘arbitrary reference point’ in my opinion. First, there is no guarantee that it is properly centered; it is often just a steel threaded collar that is pressed into a drilled hole in the aluminum. Second, and most important; we don’t press with our grip hand on the stabilizer hole; we press on the grip, which means the grip area is the critical area to align the plane to in order to avoid unwanted torque effects from being out of plane.
@@barebowbasicsThank you for your reply! Will try this on my next tuning session.
Btw, I was the buyer of your orange Jager JD3 grip that you sold quite awhile back.
What's the tool that acts like a tripod to hold the bow up?
It’s a bow jack. Simple stand used by many compound archers. Many barebow archers have found it to be an ideal stand as well. lancasterarchery.com/products/truglo-bow-jack
Quick question regarding bow length for a taller shooter (6'4) with a 30" draw - im looking to buy my first barebow setup and was told to go cheap at first. I want to aim for a 72" rig meaning I would need to get a 27" riser. These usually cost a couple hundred dollars more than a "cheap" 25" riser, $130 vs ($300-400 for an entry 27"). Id like to learn good technique with a 72" bow but not sure the cost difference is worth it compared to a 70", what do you think?
One other question, i viewed your form video but you didnt touch on hook release, ive heard different opinions on how we are supposed to release the string, could you please give your input? Thanks!
There’s two questions here, so I’ll address the quick one first.
Shot execution (release) is a topic I haven’t covered yet. It is forthcoming though, likely the next segment as it completes my discussion on the entire shot cycle. I cannot do it justice trying to explain it here in a comment reply unfortunately, so please stay tuned.
The more complex answer for what riser to get depends on how committed you are to learning the sport and discipline. While there are many archers who have shot 25” risers with long limbs successfully for decades, even with a longer 30” draw length, if you feel you are going to pursue competition seriously, my normal recommendation is to spend the extra for the 27”. If this pushes your budget a bit, see if you can find a used riser, as there are often many available. (My friend Peter is selling a great Gillo g1 right now for example)
If you aren’t at a point where you are confident you will truly pursue competition, then a 25” riser with decently designed long limbs will certainly work great for recreational use. Too many people forget that using that combo has successfully won many state and national titles, before 27” riser prevalence became mainstream.
@barebowbasics Thanks! Do you have a link to your friend's riser or the price?
There is a buy sell group on Facebook; here is his post.
facebook.com/groups/1879744912098892/permalink/25163041540009234/
Do you know any sources for the early human tuning forks? I can't find them for sale.
Unfortunately they discontinued production a few years ago. Occasionally you’ll see a set come up for sale on the used market; they disappear pretty fast though due to demand. If everyone were willing to pay a premium for a set, and gets in touch with Keith Shetler, the original designer and producer, perhaps he would reconsider making another batch. I happen to have two sets from the original kick starter, and having lived with them for years now, if I somehow lost mine, I’d easily pay $50+ for a new set in a heart beat; they’re just THAT good in my opinion.
When I found out about them they had just gone out of stock. Unfortunately the original maker decided to not make anymore but luckily was able to buy a second hand one. I too would be willing to pay a premium if the original maker decided to make another batch and buy a few in a heart beat!
If he actually does someone please reach out to me!