In one of your videos you wonder what kind of reach your videos have. I live in a very small town in the north-east of the Netherlands and immediately subscribed to your channel after discovering it. On my journey into archery I have discovered that BareBow shooting is my favorite. I have watched all the videos so far with amazement. You explain everything so well that you have to understand it. And then the most important part, it helped me a lot in setting up my bow. You are doing great, keep it up!!! and maybe one day you will create a channel for advanced BareBow shooters😏. Thank you very much and keep it up. Kind regards, Henk.🙂👍
These Barebow Basics videos are really the best. So much useful information that can't be found anywhere else, even by some well-known archers. No blablabla just very precise and super well-organized instructions. Mr. Wong is the best!
Wow, I came her looking for a ZT rest installation alone but I also have a Shibuya plunger to install so I got 2 for 1 with this video. Great find and great video. Thanks a lot from a new BB shooter.
I just want to say thank you and how incredibly useful and valuable of a resource this video series has been for me. No other channel has does as good of a job of clearly explaining exactly what a new barebow archer needs to know, without extraneous information.
Hi Elton! That is the best explanation of setting up a Spigarelli rest I have seen or read! Way better than that old Spiga video with the blaring music where they basically just bend the wire. I am guilty of dogging the screws down too tight, and always dreaded changing arrow diameters. Thanks for sharing your method!
I recently started archery with a trad recurve set up, but I do love playing with setting stuff up sometimes, so a full on barebow setup might be on the cards in the future....thanks for the great video!
Thank you so much for this. i always thought my rest could never go high enough for the arrow to align nicely with the plunger. And the part about tolerance adjustment is very valuable. These things don't come with a comprehensive manuals, as far as I know.
great video brilliant info for us new to archery. At what point would be best to set a nocking point after tiller and brace or after turning the button and arrow rest. thanks
I suggest that once the limbs are set up and on plane, install the plunger and rest so that you have a reference point for nocking points. Then tie them on as instructed in my other video. By doing it in that way, they are adjustable so you can move them during tuning.
When you put in the modified screw for the plunger, do you ever tighten the rear set screw in the housing? I get that the point is to be able to make adjustments more easily, but I wonder if you have issues with it vibrating out of position?
It is ok to snug it up a little, just to add more friction to the side of the adjustment screw. But don’t tighten it down entirely as the goal is to have it so that it can still be turned/adjusted as necessary. As long as you haven’t lost it, Shibuya originally installed a tiny little disc of nylon that the set screw pushes against. This creates the friction against the adjustment screw without the metal of the set screw tip biting into the adjustment screw threads.
Elton - Hands down the best tutorial for Spigarelli ZT on the internet. They should use your video. Thank you posting. I've followed multiple times. However, I keep having an issue with the arrow rest moving after 6-8 arrows (increasing in width by a few mm and will continue do so if not addressed). Easy to push back in, but it has obviously come loose. I don't believe I missed any steps. Have you experienced this? Any thoughts here are greatly appreciated.
If you mean the rest wire is migrating outwards, it sounds like you may have a tune issue; under normal conditions the set screws for the rest wire should not need to be cranked down ridiculously hard. (This is often how people end up stripping them out) If the nocking point is set too low, the arrow will impart too much down force on the wire at launch, which often manifests itself as pressure outwards on the wire. I would also recommend reviewing the balance of finger pressures in your hook; if they are not balanced correctly it can also cause unnecessary downwards force on the tail of the arrow at launch, which has the same effect on the rest wire. These would be the first two areas I would examine on a student presenting this issue. 😎
Good notes thank you for clarity. The air arrest does not move vertically up and down, it loosens and moves horizontally on a swivel. Please let me know if there are any alternative thoughts based on this thanks.
@cdmLA when the arrow pushes down violently at launch, the wire tends not to be able to move vertically as it’s trapped in the barrel of the housing. As a result the dynamic spine reaction of the arrow flexing will push outwards as well. This is often what I see cause the wire to migrate outwards.
I’m only shooting 35 lbs and very to new to the plunger and rest set ups. I bought a wifler mp-1 plunger and the click marks go all the way up to 9. I have it set pretty much in the middle at 4 1/2. But I really don’t know if that’s the right tension or not. Any suggestions???
@@sjohn_8627 the right tension is based on the overall rune of the system. That includes a myriad of variables from the obvious like dynamic spine reaction of the arrow to how the string comes off your hook based on your personal technique. So there is no right answer per se; it will depend on your set up. I always suggest starting near the softer side of the middle as that gives you a bit more tuning room to work with. Once good arrow flight is achieved and dynamic spine reaction is good, fine tune the plunger tension as the LAST item to close down groups to their best possible size. It will then be adjusted for your setup based on your technique.
@@RobFishYT they do not typically; the situations where I come across archers who do have that issue either have a very out of tune bow that has excess vibration, or have previously over tightened the screws too much causing the aluminum threading the begin to strip out. If you feel the need to use blue Loc-Tite, make absolutely SURE none gets into the pivoting areas as it can gum up the smooth action of the rest wire retraction very easily.
@ thanks for the response . Awesome channel btw. I’m getting back into archery. Building a hunting rig and incorporating a lot from the barebow and Olympic recurve community. You explain things so well. Thank you!
Hi Elton. Is there any benefit in having the contact points of the arrow to the plunger in line with the contact points of the arrow to the arrow shaft? Nice tip for rhe velcro. My usual practice is for just some black electrical tape applied to the surface of the riser where the tip of the arrow rest might strike to prevent wear.
For fixed distance shooting, there is no practical benefit to forcing the two contact points to be in line. When shooting field events with varying yardages, which require multiple crawl distances, it is possible for it to make a small difference. But field archery is a more advanced game that most beginners avoid so I did not want to confuse matters during a first time bow set up.
@@barebowbasicsOne other thing. Any reason why socket cap screws were recommended instead of the mushroom head ones (despite both using Allen wrenches for install)?
@@azzlaziz It depends on the grip. On some occasions the hole will not be drilled perfectly aligned with the threaded hole in the riser. In those rare cases a button head (‘mushroom’) would run into the counterbore wall. So if the clearance is there, sure, button head will work just as well. If not, socket head will pretty much always work.
Unless you are crawling at multiple distances for a game like field, placement of the wire tip front to back is not super critical; once you have tuned for that wire position and crawl, you’ll see that the wire tip position is not really relevant for single distance shooting. (Truth is, many archers obsess about the position when it doesn’t matter)
That treads beyond beginners territory; but the answer is to keep the support point where the arrow shaft contacts the wire of the rest as close to straight out from the tip of the plunger as possible. The wire should end very close to just past this point as well. Also, if possible, the wire should be bent so as to be at a relatively aggressive angle, rather than the typical shallow angle from factory. But this is difficult to describe and must be demonstrated. (Again, well beyond beginners content)
Thanks so much! I recently ordered everything I need for a barebow setup and was curious about something -- my riser comes with a clicker plate extension (riser in question is a Sebastien Flute NEO) but obviously I'm not planning on using a clicker...does it make a difference whether I install the clicker plate or not? Will it interfere with anything if I install it and just don't use it? Thanks for all your videos, they've been a huge help so far!
Most of us leave it off, if it’s not integrated as part of the rest/plunger mounting hardware like on the Hoyt Vertatune plate. Those that are separate just becomes another item that can come loose during a shoot.
This is a great setup video. I have a question regarding the nocking points. You provide great info on how to center the shaft of the arrow onto the plunger by adjusting the rest, but when do you decide to set nocking points? Do you just set the rest with the arrow nocked at zero or do you put the rest in a relatively close position then set your nocking points using a square from there? Most videos I see have a top nock 1/2” above zero so I’m trying to avoid having the nock in the wrong location when setting everything up. Thanks!!
While I haven’t stated it explicitly just yet, the understanding that should be accumulating along the way in these videos so far is that everything is moveable and adjustable. (This reasoning becomes very apparent and will be explained in the future tuning video) As such, where you start with your nocking points isn’t terribly critical because you just move them later with a few twists when we get to basic tuning. Until then, if you’re looking for a general location to place them, slightly above square from the plunger hole is fine. (Such as your observation of people generally starting about half an inch above)
@@barebowbasics one last question. I went with the Shibuya plunger from this video and it comes with a metal tip and a teflon tip. Which do you recommend using? Shooting carbon arrows if that matters. Thanks again!!
@danbuzzurro534 it’s really personal preference. Archers have shot both tips with both types of arrow material over many years and it really hasn’t made that much of a difference. I would suggest the teflon simply because it’s quieter; that’s what I went with for the demonstration bow that I just shot at the Lancaster Classic.
Is no one thinking about what happens when you put the weight in the lower riser buching? In my experience, you get a double benefit with the weight well down on risers. 1. It will be easier to get the bow plumb. 2. You still get good weight and balance. And what happens if you put the weight low and on the inside of the risers? Well you get another advantage. 1. Easier to get the bow plumb. 2. Good weight. 3. easy to get the bow plumb and that it will be easier to avoid twisting of the bow and better balance. And then you avoid that the springs of the arrows hit the heel of the sight window. This makes it easier to tune the arrows to your shooting and bow.
There is no single best answer; I encourage every archer to play and experiment with minor changes once their tune is established and see if the changes improves the overall shooting. Sometimes a minor setup change looks bad at first, but with minor tweaks to the tune ends up being overall superior. Other times the change appears good but only because the original tune wasn’t optimal in the earlier setup; going back and spending more time tweaking things slightly made the original setup superior in forgiveness. I’ve seen it happen far too many times in person to ever be willing to say ‘approach X is the absolute best’
@@barebowbasics That way you can also answer! and do of course. But hope you understood what I wrote regarding the advantages of such a setupp as I described. Because if you're going to shoot in the forest, it's very important that the bow is plumb when you're shooting on a slope (left/right) Otherwise you'll inevitably fall with the slope
In one of your videos you wonder what kind of reach your videos have. I live in a very small town in the north-east of the Netherlands and immediately subscribed to your channel after discovering it. On my journey into archery I have discovered that BareBow shooting is my favorite. I have watched all the videos so far with amazement. You explain everything so well that you have to understand it. And then the most important part, it helped me a lot in setting up my bow. You are doing great, keep it up!!! and maybe one day you will create a channel for advanced BareBow shooters😏.
Thank you very much and keep it up.
Kind regards, Henk.🙂👍
These Barebow Basics videos are really the best. So much useful information that can't be found anywhere else, even by some well-known archers. No blablabla just very precise and super well-organized instructions. Mr. Wong is the best!
Wow, I came her looking for a ZT rest installation alone but I also have a Shibuya plunger to install so I got 2 for 1 with this video. Great find and great video. Thanks a lot from a new BB shooter.
I just want to say thank you and how incredibly useful and valuable of a resource this video series has been for me. No other channel has does as good of a job of clearly explaining exactly what a new barebow archer needs to know, without extraneous information.
YES, I finally found a video that explained these adjustments in a very educational way, many thanks 😁👍
Excellent... as always. this video got me " back on track".
A very good teacher
Hi Elton! That is the best explanation of setting up a Spigarelli rest I have seen or read! Way better than that old Spiga video with the blaring music where they basically just bend the wire. I am guilty of dogging the screws down too tight, and always dreaded changing arrow diameters. Thanks for sharing your method!
Thanks, Elton. Love the reference points.
I recently started archery with a trad recurve set up, but I do love playing with setting stuff up sometimes, so a full on barebow setup might be on the cards in the future....thanks for the great video!
Thank you so much for this. i always thought my rest could never go high enough for the arrow to align nicely with the plunger. And the part about tolerance adjustment is very valuable. These things don't come with a comprehensive manuals, as far as I know.
Thanks great video and very helpful
nice video. solved a couple of my problems
great video brilliant info for us new to archery. At what point would be best to set a nocking point after tiller and brace or after turning the button and arrow rest. thanks
I suggest that once the limbs are set up and on plane, install the plunger and rest so that you have a reference point for nocking points. Then tie them on as instructed in my other video. By doing it in that way, they are adjustable so you can move them during tuning.
I really am being helped a lot by your videos! Can you tell me where you got the brass washers at? Thanks!
boltdepot.com/Product-Details?product=4174
Buy a dozen or so then you’ll always have them on hand. 😁
When you put in the modified screw for the plunger, do you ever tighten the rear set screw in the housing? I get that the point is to be able to make adjustments more easily, but I wonder if you have issues with it vibrating out of position?
It is ok to snug it up a little, just to add more friction to the side of the adjustment screw. But don’t tighten it down entirely as the goal is to have it so that it can still be turned/adjusted as necessary. As long as you haven’t lost it, Shibuya originally installed a tiny little disc of nylon that the set screw pushes against. This creates the friction against the adjustment screw without the metal of the set screw tip biting into the adjustment screw threads.
Elton - Hands down the best tutorial for Spigarelli ZT on the internet. They should use your video. Thank you posting. I've followed multiple times. However, I keep having an issue with the arrow rest moving after 6-8 arrows (increasing in width by a few mm and will continue do so if not addressed). Easy to push back in, but it has obviously come loose. I don't believe I missed any steps. Have you experienced this? Any thoughts here are greatly appreciated.
If you mean the rest wire is migrating outwards, it sounds like you may have a tune issue; under normal conditions the set screws for the rest wire should not need to be cranked down ridiculously hard. (This is often how people end up stripping them out)
If the nocking point is set too low, the arrow will impart too much down force on the wire at launch, which often manifests itself as pressure outwards on the wire. I would also recommend reviewing the balance of finger pressures in your hook; if they are not balanced correctly it can also cause unnecessary downwards force on the tail of the arrow at launch, which has the same effect on the rest wire.
These would be the first two areas I would examine on a student presenting this issue. 😎
Good notes thank you for clarity. The air arrest does not move vertically up and down, it loosens and moves horizontally on a swivel. Please let me know if there are any alternative thoughts based on this thanks.
@cdmLA when the arrow pushes down violently at launch, the wire tends not to be able to move vertically as it’s trapped in the barrel of the housing. As a result the dynamic spine reaction of the arrow flexing will push outwards as well. This is often what I see cause the wire to migrate outwards.
I’m only shooting 35 lbs and very to new to the plunger and rest set ups. I bought a wifler mp-1 plunger and the click marks go all the way up to 9. I have it set pretty much in the middle at 4 1/2. But I really don’t know if that’s the right tension or not. Any suggestions???
@@sjohn_8627 the right tension is based on the overall rune of the system. That includes a myriad of variables from the obvious like dynamic spine reaction of the arrow to how the string comes off your hook based on your personal technique. So there is no right answer per se; it will depend on your set up. I always suggest starting near the softer side of the middle as that gives you a bit more tuning room to work with. Once good arrow flight is achieved and dynamic spine reaction is good, fine tune the plunger tension as the LAST item to close down groups to their best possible size. It will then be adjusted for your setup based on your technique.
Do any of those screws on the rest ever come loose? What do you think about blue lock-tite?
@@RobFishYT they do not typically; the situations where I come across archers who do have that issue either have a very out of tune bow that has excess vibration, or have previously over tightened the screws too much causing the aluminum threading the begin to strip out. If you feel the need to use blue Loc-Tite, make absolutely SURE none gets into the pivoting areas as it can gum up the smooth action of the rest wire retraction very easily.
@ thanks for the response . Awesome channel btw. I’m getting back into archery. Building a hunting rig and incorporating a lot from the barebow and Olympic recurve community. You explain things so well. Thank you!
So the wire on that rest will move in when the arrow is released….like it actually flips in and touches the Velcro spot??
@@sjohn_8627 yep
Hi Elton. Is there any benefit in having the contact points of the arrow to the plunger in line with the contact points of the arrow to the arrow shaft?
Nice tip for rhe velcro. My usual practice is for just some black electrical tape applied to the surface of the riser where the tip of the arrow rest might strike to prevent wear.
For fixed distance shooting, there is no practical benefit to forcing the two contact points to be in line. When shooting field events with varying yardages, which require multiple crawl distances, it is possible for it to make a small difference. But field archery is a more advanced game that most beginners avoid so I did not want to confuse matters during a first time bow set up.
@@barebowbasics Thank you.
@@barebowbasicsOne other thing. Any reason why socket cap screws were recommended instead of the mushroom head ones (despite both using Allen wrenches for install)?
@@azzlaziz It depends on the grip. On some occasions the hole will not be drilled perfectly aligned with the threaded hole in the riser. In those rare cases a button head (‘mushroom’) would run into the counterbore wall. So if the clearance is there, sure, button head will work just as well. If not, socket head will pretty much always work.
@@barebowbasics Thanks again. I just find socket head are so bulky and will protrude quite a bit from the grip surface compared to mushroom heads.
the tip of the wire rest the arrow before or after the botton??
Unless you are crawling at multiple distances for a game like field, placement of the wire tip front to back is not super critical; once you have tuned for that wire position and crawl, you’ll see that the wire tip position is not really relevant for single distance shooting. (Truth is, many archers obsess about the position when it doesn’t matter)
@@barebowbasicsthanks its for multiple distance in open field
That treads beyond beginners territory; but the answer is to keep the support point where the arrow shaft contacts the wire of the rest as close to straight out from the tip of the plunger as possible. The wire should end very close to just past this point as well. Also, if possible, the wire should be bent so as to be at a relatively aggressive angle, rather than the typical shallow angle from factory. But this is difficult to describe and must be demonstrated. (Again, well beyond beginners content)
@@barebowbasics thanks for all
If you are attending Field trials in Indiana this year, good luck!!! Looks like a good size crowd is going. 😁
Thanks so much! I recently ordered everything I need for a barebow setup and was curious about something -- my riser comes with a clicker plate extension (riser in question is a Sebastien Flute NEO) but obviously I'm not planning on using a clicker...does it make a difference whether I install the clicker plate or not? Will it interfere with anything if I install it and just don't use it?
Thanks for all your videos, they've been a huge help so far!
Most of us leave it off, if it’s not integrated as part of the rest/plunger mounting hardware like on the Hoyt Vertatune plate. Those that are separate just becomes another item that can come loose during a shoot.
@@barebowbasicsThanks!
This is a great setup video. I have a question regarding the nocking points. You provide great info on how to center the shaft of the arrow onto the plunger by adjusting the rest, but when do you decide to set nocking points? Do you just set the rest with the arrow nocked at zero or do you put the rest in a relatively close position then set your nocking points using a square from there? Most videos I see have a top nock 1/2” above zero so I’m trying to avoid having the nock in the wrong location when setting everything up. Thanks!!
While I haven’t stated it explicitly just yet, the understanding that should be accumulating along the way in these videos so far is that everything is moveable and adjustable. (This reasoning becomes very apparent and will be explained in the future tuning video) As such, where you start with your nocking points isn’t terribly critical because you just move them later with a few twists when we get to basic tuning. Until then, if you’re looking for a general location to place them, slightly above square from the plunger hole is fine. (Such as your observation of people generally starting about half an inch above)
Got it! Thanks Elton! Love the videos you’re putting out. They’re extremely helpful
@@barebowbasics one last question. I went with the Shibuya plunger from this video and it comes with a metal tip and a teflon tip. Which do you recommend using? Shooting carbon arrows if that matters. Thanks again!!
@danbuzzurro534 it’s really personal preference. Archers have shot both tips with both types of arrow material over many years and it really hasn’t made that much of a difference. I would suggest the teflon simply because it’s quieter; that’s what I went with for the demonstration bow that I just shot at the Lancaster Classic.
Sounds good. I appreciate the help as always! Looking forward to your next video
very useful and Elton are you still teaching class for barebow? if so how I can join it?
I do still coach in private occasionally; reach out to me via Facebook and we can discuss in Messenger.
@@barebowbasics
Can you advise your name in Facebook please thank you
Just search for Elton Wong you’ll recognize me from the picture. 😁
Is no one thinking about what happens when you put the weight in the lower riser buching? In my experience, you get a double benefit with the weight well down on risers. 1. It will be easier to get the bow plumb. 2. You still get good weight and balance. And what happens if you put the weight low and on the inside of the risers? Well you get another advantage. 1. Easier to get the bow plumb. 2. Good weight. 3. easy to get the bow plumb and that it will be easier to avoid twisting of the bow and better balance. And then you avoid that the springs of the arrows hit the heel of the sight window. This makes it easier to tune the arrows to your shooting and bow.
There is no single best answer; I encourage every archer to play and experiment with minor changes once their tune is established and see if the changes improves the overall shooting. Sometimes a minor setup change looks bad at first, but with minor tweaks to the tune ends up being overall superior. Other times the change appears good but only because the original tune wasn’t optimal in the earlier setup; going back and spending more time tweaking things slightly made the original setup superior in forgiveness. I’ve seen it happen far too many times in person to ever be willing to say ‘approach X is the absolute best’
@@barebowbasics That way you can also answer! and do of course. But hope you understood what I wrote regarding the advantages of such a setupp
as I described. Because if you're going to shoot in the forest, it's very important that the bow is plumb when you're shooting on a slope (left/right) Otherwise you'll inevitably fall with the slope
Hey, am I the only one that just throws all these things together and hangs loose at the range checking out the babes?
🤣