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Tighten it enough to apply some light tension on the adjustment bolt. This will help hold whatever setting you twist the bolt to. No need to tighten hard as that will prevent manual adjustment of the spring tension by fingers.

Thanks Elton

Middle of the range, (about three turns out from fully turned in) as long as you can handle the draw weight OTF. This gives you the most tuning latitude when the time comes.

@@barebowbasics Basically what I did was just turn out and then in just till it touched. The limbs are 36lbs and way too heavy for someone new, I can grow into them and ordered a 26lb set so I get the technique down, I'm not concerned how much weight I can draw, thanks for excellent series of videos.

@@TWKJake double check using measurements on another section of the riser such as below the stabilizer bushing. Visual centering is never as accurate as using measured centering approaches.

@@MrGloberunner it was great meeting you. I’ll be on the practice range a bunch today so feel free to swing by and we can shot together some! 😎

Believe we are already discussing details at this time in the Facebook group. 😎. If that’s not you, please let me know.

@ yes, and I thank you sir!!!

@@divljipirat1 if you can, have someone take a few pics of you shooting and send them to me; it’s hard to give recommendations without actually seeing your personal situation. I have worked with wheel chair bound archers in the past, so it’s entirely possible to shoot well and not comprise on your setup.

The vast majority of barebow archers anchor on the side of their face, because we invariably have more cast in the arrow than we need at our typical anchor point for the distance we are shooting. With only a few exceptions in barebow, (lower poundage at 50M distances) in almost every game there will be some amount of crawl in order to keep the arrow point ‘point on’ on the center of the target when string walking. In general, minimizing the crawl when possible is better for the tune of the setup, so a higher anchor is almost always chosen. (Corner of mouth, canine tooth, etc) Thus, this typically puts the string on the side of the face to some degree depending upon what anchor is chosen. This differs significantly from Recurve, where the typical anchor is under the jaw with the string on the chin. Recurve can do this because they do not use the point of the arrow to aim, but rather a sight ring on an adjustable rail; this allows the sight to compensate for vertical aiming adjustment, while keeping the anchor fixed (below the chin) since no crawl is used on the string. (Draw hook is split finger as a matter of practice) The contrast becomes more apparent if a barebow archer tries to crawl for point on, but insists on using a lower chin style anchor like Recurve uses; for everything except 50M games, the crawl becomes immense, which is far from ideal from a setup tuning perspective; the further out the crawl, the more unstable the tune can become. There are some archers that have invested significant effort in forcing the approach to work for them, but it is nothing I would ever recommend to beginners; there is a reason that the LARGE majority of the best competitive Barebow archers in the world use a side of a face anchor, minimizing crawl when possible, as long as they don’t sacrifice consistency of anchor point.

@barebowbasics This is all interesting new info to me. This whole time, I've just forced myself to learn how to compensate using just my basic setup. I never even considered these other things as an option, lol. I've never used a sight ring either. I just practiced until I could land shots at different distances consistently.

@ when you get a chance, take a look at the more recent video on Shot Process Basics; it will give you clear examples on the most current approach for anchor that I teach, and the basics around string walking. With a consistent side of face anchor and the use of string walking, you may be pleasantly surprised by how much your group size shrinks once you are using the arrow point as a fixed aiming mechanism on the gold of the target. 😎

boltdepot.com/Product-Details?product=6522 Simple as that. 😎

boltdepot.com/Product-Details?product=4174 Buy a dozen or so then you’ll always have them on hand. 😁

@@idenwarnock4649 Time allowing, I can be reached on Facebook via messenger.

This is a topic covered in many other videos, articles and discussions across the internet, so I didn’t feel it critical to re-hash it and consume video time. The basics of it, is to have a friend or helper mark an arrow shaft with a sharpie at the front edge (target facing side) of the riser when you are holding at anchor while in the best alignment possible with good form. This measurement from nock to the mark is typically known as your AMO draw length. For odd shaped risers, you can also mark the distance at the plunger hole instead, and add 1.75”. Proper form and the best alignment possible is the key to getting an accurate draw length measurement.

@@RobFishYT they do not typically; the situations where I come across archers who do have that issue either have a very out of tune bow that has excess vibration, or have previously over tightened the screws too much causing the aluminum threading the begin to strip out. If you feel the need to use blue Loc-Tite, make absolutely SURE none gets into the pivoting areas as it can gum up the smooth action of the rest wire retraction very easily.

@ thanks for the response . Awesome channel btw. I’m getting back into archery. Building a hunting rig and incorporating a lot from the barebow and Olympic recurve community. You explain things so well. Thank you!

If you mean the rest wire is migrating outwards, it sounds like you may have a tune issue; under normal conditions the set screws for the rest wire should not need to be cranked down ridiculously hard. (This is often how people end up stripping them out) If the nocking point is set too low, the arrow will impart too much down force on the wire at launch, which often manifests itself as pressure outwards on the wire. I would also recommend reviewing the balance of finger pressures in your hook; if they are not balanced correctly it can also cause unnecessary downwards force on the tail of the arrow at launch, which has the same effect on the rest wire. These would be the first two areas I would examine on a student presenting this issue. 😎

Good notes thank you for clarity. The air arrest does not move vertically up and down, it loosens and moves horizontally on a swivel. Please let me know if there are any alternative thoughts based on this thanks.

@cdmLA when the arrow pushes down violently at launch, the wire tends not to be able to move vertically as it’s trapped in the barrel of the housing. As a result the dynamic spine reaction of the arrow flexing will push outwards as well. This is often what I see cause the wire to migrate outwards.

Always tune from the intended hook position; if you’re going to fixed crawl and gap for distance to target variation, then tune at the fixed crawl. You want the arrow tuned best for where you will hook from to give the best overall flight. (This is what makes the Field discipline so challenging, finding a tune that compromises at all the different crawls you may make from 5m to 50m is almost always difficult)

@ thank you for your help, i greatly appreciate it

There is no single best answer; I encourage every archer to play and experiment with minor changes once their tune is established and see if the changes improves the overall shooting. Sometimes a minor setup change looks bad at first, but with minor tweaks to the tune ends up being overall superior. Other times the change appears good but only because the original tune wasn’t optimal in the earlier setup; going back and spending more time tweaking things slightly made the original setup superior in forgiveness. I’ve seen it happen far too many times in person to ever be willing to say ‘approach X is the absolute best’

@@barebowbasics That way you can also answer! and do of course. But hope you understood what I wrote regarding the advantages of such a setupp as I described. Because if you're going to shoot in the forest, it's very important that the bow is plumb when you're shooting on a slope (left/right) Otherwise you'll inevitably fall with the slope

As time allows, absolutely! As this is just a side hobby for me anymore, unfortunately I’m not able to devote as much time to it as I would like. There should be a few videos releasing during this upcoming indoor season though, so be on the lookout!! 😎

Thank you! ​@@barebowbasics

Generally yes, shorter limbs for shorter draws. Absolutely true in a competitive setup as you want to build in the most smoothness and forgiveness possible, so a longer draw would want longer limbs. In a hunting setup, there’s a little leeway, and you can get away with being undersized by one limb size as long as the limb is made well; you will be bending it into a curve that is more intense than its usual intended range so the possibility of stacking (uncomfortable rapid increase in draw weight on the fingers) and increased finger pinch angle exist. These are often acceptable trade offs though for the added compactness and portability of a hunting setup. 😎

@@barebowbasics Thanks, ill be getting 70 inch Recurve bow set up for hunting, Win & Win are the bows I am looking at right now, do you recommend any other common Brands?

Any of the major brands are just fine for hunting duty. Hunting is generally outside the scope of this channel’s discussion, but I’ll ask one last question/make one last suggestion; how will you be hunting? If you plan to stalk, 70” AMO is certainly doable. If you plan to sit via tree stand or ground blind, consider going down in riser size a little bit… A 21” riser will suffice nicely for those roles by bringing the AMO down to 66”, which is way more manageable in confined quarters. Even if you only go down to a 23” riser, the two inch drop will still be helpful; nothing ruins a hunt more than banging your lower limb tip on a log, branch or the blind right before the moment of truth and spooking the deer…😅

@@barebowbasics ill be hunting at 3am, basically at night in North Queensland, Australia. With a green light attached. I was going to get the Satori riser, but am considering just getting the Win & Win cx7 riser. Seems like a big upgrade.

There really isn’t one. I have run strings with as few twists as five and as many as a fifty. So it’s personal preference; you just have to tune to the setup for whatever you choose. Hypothetically there’s probably a point where too many twists is bad. You’ll know it when you see it though as the strands will look strained or bunched up. Personally, I like to try for a string length around 20-30 twists and tune from there, but ymmv. 😎

@@sjohn_8627 the right tension is based on the overall rune of the system. That includes a myriad of variables from the obvious like dynamic spine reaction of the arrow to how the string comes off your hook based on your personal technique. So there is no right answer per se; it will depend on your set up. I always suggest starting near the softer side of the middle as that gives you a bit more tuning room to work with. Once good arrow flight is achieved and dynamic spine reaction is good, fine tune the plunger tension as the LAST item to close down groups to their best possible size. It will then be adjusted for your setup based on your technique.

@@sjohn_8627 yep

@@NotTheLarryDavid No. you can seem to be on plane (centered near the grip area of riser) but have opposing limb alignment issues on each end.

I suggest that once the limbs are set up and on plane, install the plunger and rest so that you have a reference point for nocking points. Then tie them on as instructed in my other video. By doing it in that way, they are adjustable so you can move them during tuning.

There is supposed to be a molybdenum type anti-sieze lubricant on the threads; this generally prevents the bolt threads from cutting into the riser threads in the hole. But if a person is concerned about potential damage, then yes they should always de-string before each adjustment. (This is why I specifically mention it in the video)

Excuse my multiple writing errors ! Writing on phones is never better than using a full keyboard. I am glad you got the meaning. 👌

It depends highly on the archer and their setup; higher draw weights enable better cast for longer distances. Lighter arrow build will also give farther cast. Facial geometry plays a part in the equation too, as longer distance from eye to anchor effectively increases cast. Grip pressure position can affect cast as well. (Starting to see a trend?) Switching from a three under hook to a split finger hook moves the arrow downward effectively, further from the eye, and again, increases cast. There are many many variables at play; this is why a good archer needs to learn them all and apply them to find what balance works best for them.

@@mikezmac what kind of wire rest are you referring to?

@@barebowbasics a spring rest like the one I have Spigarelli Zero Tolerance (ZT). Will a plunger work with that ?

@@mikezmac yes, 100%. That’s what I demonstrate in the follow up video for set up.

@@barebowbasics awesome!!!! Ty. Buying one! Beiter Plunger! 🪠