Best Band Saw Blade? All Blades Are NOT Equal! Lets Test Them Out!! Portaband Portable Bandsaw
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 มิ.ย. 2024
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This video uses PRECISION back yard SCIENCE to try and figure out what brand band saw blade is the best and which is the worst. The results will be surprising to most!
I set up a Hercules (harbor freight tools) vertical/horizontal portable bandsaw base/stand with 2 sets of weights for light pressure cuts (40oz) and heavy pressure cuts (90oz). This base is surprisingly great btw. @harborfreight has really been upping their game!
Direct links to Blades used in this video
Imachinist 14-18 amzn.to/47dEdLP
Dewalt 14-18 amzn.to/47wjkLu
Morse PowerCobalt 14-18 amzn.to/3QHPFrJ
FoxBC 14-18 amzn.to/3ui1QnI
Lenox 14-18 amzn.to/49xji81
Milwaukee blades were not tested because 14-18 tooth blades are currently not available. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![ช้างศึกสู้ต่อไป!! พาเปียโน ดูบอลไทยครั้งแรก ตกรอบแบบโคตรเสียดาย!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4WloIH645Lg/mqdefault.jpg)
How good is it to see a honest unbiased product review.
Thank you!
I was surprised to see the Hercules saw stand but not the Hercules blades on sale now (12/23) 3 - 9.99. You do phenomenal reviews though, thanks for your review and time!
I wanted to do the Hercules but the didn’t offer it in the same pitch. Also, Hercules come in a 2 pack not 3 unfortunately. Still a good deal though.
wow - great test. I've always use the Morse blades as well. Next time I need to resupply I'll give the iMachinist a try. Thank you for all the empirical testing and data summary. 👍👍😎👍👍
Anyone need any tiny pieces of 2” square tube? 😂
Filler for the scrap tub.@@DeathTollRacing
I have a brand new package of Starrett blades that now I am going to have to try , good video !
Oh man. That’ll be interesting
longevity and cut performance comes down to proper blade material, blade surface speed, pressure and toothcount for the material thickness. The sfpm for the material and the tooth count matched to the material thickness helps the blade to take a chip rather than rub. Thinner materials work with higher tooth counts but only within reason. It is rare that I find any requirement for square type cutting where i would use higher than a 12/14 tpi blade, this includes thin wall (~16ga) tube work. Thicker materials require a lower tooth count for effective cutting. I use the iMachinist blades on my drop saw and vertical saw, both of which are used for metal cutting only. One thing that helps a lot for blade longevity is properly breaking in the blade. Using a blade waxbar prior to cutting and subsequently every other part or so helps keep the gullets lubricated for less chance of chip welding, especially in thicker materials or softer gummy materials. The key is not to rub but to have each tooth actually take a cut from the stock entry contact point to the stock exit point where a chip is cleanly ejected. when this occurs it means the blade teeth are seeing near to uniform pressure through the full cut. you will get a chip rather than "dust" because the cut is dialed in correctly and the chip has the required room in the gullet to finish the length of cut without becoming compacted and causing the tooth to lift from its cut. Once the gullet is clogged it changes the entire cut recipe for all of the trailing teeth.
when in doubt use a blade with a lower tooth count and take closer control with the entry and exit engagement. This will give the straightest and squarest cuts, best blade life and keep the material cooler in the cut. This is especially important for stainless steel which is notorious for work hardening with light cuts or if it even gets the hint of rubbing rather than cutting. We want the heat created from the cut going into the chip which is ejected, and avoid that heat going into the part or blade. I spent more time than I care to admit figuring out how to use a bandsaw succesfully without killing blades but I finally arrived and a recipe that offers very long blade service life, fast start to finish cut speed and very qood cut quality where squareness and finish are concerned.
The last point is the downfeed. once you have the right tooth count and sfpm blade speed, we need to match in the downfeed. Placing weight on the blade alone without a controlled drop speed is placing unecessary force on the blade. you want weight to keep the head from bouncing and to create a good smooth pressure, not to force the blade through the material. Use weight in conjunction with the drop speed actuator. let the teeth create the void for the saw to move through the cut, this is where the squareness will be achieved providing the desired cut results. when the recipe is dialed in at all of the above points, the saw will work at its optimum level and your results will therefore also be optimum.
Hope this helps!
Chris
That all is great information, but keep in mind, this is on a portable band saw, that was only on a fixture to make the the pressure, speed, angle, etc, as consistent as possible so there was not bias of the user. I don't think most people have as much "feel" for the blade while in use as described above, as well as changing blades for every material thickness, situation. Most people buy one blade that is "okay" at everything which is why I chose this tooth arrangement, because from my experience of hand cutting with a portable band saw, is the most "universal".
@@DeathTollRacing good point! The theory behind both methods would remain the same albeit the user would control the cut pressure as you stated which is a acquired feel, the blade speed is not adjustable on that saw type? I don't have one so do not know.
You said it right Gavin “feel for the blade”. I might add the sound of the saw cutting through the material. Most important though is the shape and color of the chip it tells the story.@@DeathTollRacing
@@paulkutz5378 yes, a very good point!
I will be getting some of those iMachinist blades.
I hope it wasn’t a fluke! But they really impressed me! I’m definitely switching over too
IM blade has a steeper hook angle on the tooth. The Morse is almost at 90 degrees.
IM will grab harder and Morse will be smoother from less grab.
Interesting observation!
Question for cutting rail would a 10/14 TPI be best or 14/18 TPI?
What do you mean by rail? Railroad rail?