How To Replace Sillcock Valve With Frost Free Shark Bite
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ต.ค. 2017
- Learn how to replace your old sillcock valve on the outside of your house. We use a new frost free Shark Bite valve to make the job fast and easy!
How To use a copper pipe cutter: • Learn How To Use A Pip...
How To Remove a Shark Bite Fitting Without a Special Tool - Adjustable Wrench Trick • How To Remove a Shark ...
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Great video! For someone who has never done plumbing work, I just did this in under and hour! Thanks for the help!
Thanks for watching
Glad to see the replacement done with a Sillcock Valve with Shark Bite connectors & off course a ball shutoff valve close by. Minor issue I saw was the statement of Plastic Pipe, when it probably should have been PEX (maybe it actually was PEX). I did like the video!
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Nice guide. I have a spigot not working after the winter that I was considering just replacing rather than trying to repair. Its a "frost free" and I drained it before winter but somehow now working. Probably will combo that with adding a shutoff to it like you guys did.
Thanks for watching
Nice job guys. I'll be making this identical repair with the Sharkbite sillcock this weekend.
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How was it?
I' Have NEVER DONE plumbing
Interesting it will be!!
Lol
I'm thinking about doing it..
I need it asap
Glad i seen this video tbh w plastic pipe 2 copper!!
Didn't use the deburring tool first? Might have compromised that sharkbite from the get go. Hope not... I've used them a couple times recently and love them. Now I don't need to pay a Rob unless it's something big lol.
Lol..thanks for watching buddy
Exactly. The freshly cut copper pipe should have been deburred, cleaned, and depth marked! Without those steps, the entire sharkbite and connection is compromised and may fail in the future either due to nicks on the o-ring or an improperly fitted connection due to the shards interfering. The shards could also travel downstream and damage another fittings or appliances or stop up a filter screen. Those prep steps are necessary, and easily done using the sharkbite deburr and gauge tool designed for that and another deburring tool (maybe a pencil type) for the inside of the copper pipe, followed up by using an emory cloth on the edge of the pipe and a pipe cleaning tool to remove any copper shards left inside the copper pipe.
Further, old solder, debris, glue and aging pipe can damage the o-ring. Thus, it might not form a clean connection. Also, the teeth in the sharkbite might not grab completely or correctly. So, the copper should be treated just as if it were going to be soldered. Thus, copper should be sanded or shined with emory cloth. And, pvc or cpvc should be clean, not scratched or dirty with glue or other debris.
Thank you!! I have to replace four at my house and I was having issues because the original stuff confused even our local hardware store!
Glad it helped!
Clean the corrosion off the cut off tips on the pipes before connecting the sharkbite fittings. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching.
About 4 years ago I forgot to bring in hose for the winter. So when spring came I had a leak in the basement. So I turned off the water and forgot about that spigot. But now I am going to fix it. I bought the frost free type. Thanks for your video. I don’t know how to solder.
This was super easy to do. Hope this video helps you out. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video! I just replaced mine and did exactly what you did and it worked out perfectly.
Glad this helped you out!
Awesome, thank you!
Great fix, especially if you hate soldering
It's a really easy fix. This replacement spigot is also an anti-siphon one.
Memorial Day 2020. I just did this to mine. 👍
Glad this helped you out
I saw things that I would have done differently but all in all, a good production.
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also does the sharkbite fitting 'rotate' or stay in place? i used a sharkbite under sink valve and it rotates, doesn't affect the operation, but was annoying... just curious if this type of valve rotates as well?
Sharkbites are designed to rotate. However, the pipe itself should also be secured with the proper clips---code in most places, and certainly would affect a sharkbite warranty issue if it is not.
How do u know if its threaded if u cant see it
This is 'exactly' what i want to do. incase i missed it, is that PEX? I have a current shutoff valve further down but it is the older style and it is behind a dropceiling 'light fixture' so it is more annoying to get to then just a normal drop ceiling tile. I may do what you did and add 'another' shutoff closer as these look nice.
It’s a Sharkbite sillcock with PEX as a feed to it. It has two holes at the end for screws so you can secure it to the wall
Sharkbite amazing
Thanks for watching
Would you use this for New England (freezing temperatures)?
Yes, this is a frost free silcock. It's made for cold temperatures.
Good video, thanks for posting, I'll be replacing a sill cock shortly. Question though, is there an advantage to using the intermediate pex pipe instead of going with all copper to copper? Thanks
It is so much easier working with pex. No soldering and no pipe corrosion like the copper ones.
What size drill bit did you use? I'm planning on a 1" going through brick/concrete foundation. Think that will work?
Not exactly sure. We used one that was just a little bigger than the pipe. Thanks for watching.
Rob needs a real drill %
No way that bit is going through concrete . Sam bainbridge u need a masonry bit for that . Depending on the thickness and type of concrete you may need a hammer drill and a impact masonry bit.
So you can use pex line into shark bite? Good to know. Don't like clamping the pex.
These are easy to use
I would guess you could free the corroded shut off valve by spraying with WD40, then loosening the nut and seeing if the valve will open. if so, then remove the handle and nut and maybe the packing, then polish the shaft where the packing runs, lube, then snug down the packing nut and run the valve open and shut until the packing seals. Valves need the shaft cleaned and lubed periodically.
Thanks for watching
You need to use the spacer behind the silicock to slope the hose bib down !!!
Never had an issue with it.
What kind of water hose was that?
Just a cheap Home Depot one.
Wicked pissah!!!
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An auger bit probably would have worked easier for you going through the siding and sheathing.
Thanks for the added tip!
I was thinking the same thing
rob the plumber is pointing at the tap......:D
lol
Try to get the washer for it when it goes bad. A .35 cent part impossible to buy shark bite does not sell them.
So far so good no leaks
Sounds like you’re from mass! :)
New Hampshire
Never leave the hose on the spigot during winter.
Thanks for watching
It nullifys the antisiphon design . Says it right on package . @ what fred said it doesnt matter with those aluminum hose ends bud the second you tighton a alumimum to steel it immediatly oxidizes and locks the threads .
I leaned that lesson the hard way this week
Are those shark bites trust worthy?
Yes they’re used all the time in new construction
They last forever if they're properly installed, you have to make sure the end of the pipe is clean, deburred, and circular and it will last a very long time
Exactly, make sure the cut is square and clean. That's the key to preventing issues with shark bites, and really any other type of fitting.
They will leak if put on soft copper.
no good you forgot to put the plastic sleeves
What plastic sleeves
all push fittings come with a plastic sleeve
the sleeve goes in between the plastic pipe and the sharkbite
plastic pipes can collaps and can let go from pressure changes
Yup....if using Pex Pipe.
plus he should have had the pex going at a downward angle to outside, and he should have put the putty on before pushing it to the wall, then clean the excess
lol
Vinegar will eat away those minerals on there for you.
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Hope the next project is the gutter.
Took almost all of the gutters off the house. They were causing more harm than good.
A utility knife should never be used to cut a pipe that goes into a sharkbite. It must have a clean and precisely cut end so that the connection won't leak. And, the pipe should have been marked to assure the required depth insertion. The plumber may be able to sense both insertion barriers. But, this goes against the instructions by Sharkbite. Also, no deburring or cleaning was done for either the copper or the "plastic" pipe. This may lead to failure of the Sharkbite because the o-ring may have been damaged by slivers of copper or "plastic". I am baffled as to why the copper was cut out so far. It seemed to be perfectly good copper without any corrosion or defects. I might wonder if this is done in every job, the pieced may be saved to turn in for money at scrap, or to use on other jobs. Maybe it was for ease of elbow room, but it was a waste of good material. Also, I'd have to see the code in that location, but I believe there should be connectors holding the pipe onto the joist. Without all this, including the proper prep of the pipes, the 25-year warranty provided by Sharkbite is void.
This sillcock is still working fine, no leaks